warming up
From : montanajeeper
Q: steve lusardi wrote if it was the diff it would be the same in 4 low 4 high and 2 high. the problem is clearly the transfer case. you did not state if it worked in 4 high. in any case put the truck on a lift and suspend the wheels and test. by removing the drive shafts one by one and testing the problem will reveal itself. steve hi all i just recently put in a rebuilt transfer case. today i had it locked 4 low backing up and the left rear wheel was acting like the brakes were on so i pulled on to the road and tried it again it it still did it. shifted into 2 high all is fine. my uncle said it sounded like the spider gear in the rear end. i guess it could be. any help would be great. truck info 1996 dakota 3.9 l 93000 miles thanks in advance tom dud don t do anything to the rear end. the low end gears in the transfer case is unmatched with the older parts of truck. remember in 2 wheel high all is fine. most likely it is the transfer case is cause the front end to pull faster then the rear making it look like the rear is the problem. need to have an mechanic look it over. make sure there a.s.e mechanic ok hope this helps. .
Replies:
From : theguy
its still under warranty keep taking it back to the dealer. on the third visit for this problem ask the service manager for literature about your states lemon law. keep your receipts. .
From : beekeep
jamiegoforth@webtv.net says... just bought a 90 dakota 3.9l a couple of days ago and notice it seems like you really have to put your foot down to get it to go. you kind of have to drive it like youre mad at it. you are just used to driving overpowered vehicles. the 3.9l has plenty of power for any reasonable task within the range of the trucks size. however it does not quite have the low end torque of the long stroke truck engines of years gone by and needs more gearbox use to keep it in the rpm range where it pulls good. also many were built with a 3.55 axle ratio probably for corporate mileage when they should have had a 3.92 and the automatic transmissions if so equipped tend to shift a little early. are they all pretty much like that unless you buy the big v8 yes. remember this is a half-ton truck not a racer. otherwise i like the truck--its clean and i got it for a very good price--but i wonder if anyone else with a similar truck has noticed this or if it can be corrected. obviously make sure the engine is in good shape but it didnt sound like you have a problem in that area. rear axle ratio is the most-overlooked-by-amateurs modification that you can make. just going from 3.55 to 3.92 gives you an instant 10% torque increase at 10% lower rpm and given that most vehicles these days are equipped with overdrive the drop in mileage is usually insignificant. .
From : tom lawrence
just bought a 90 dakota 3.9l a couple of days ago and notice it seems like you really have to put your foot down to get it to go. you kind of have to drive it like youre mad at it. are they all pretty much like that otherwise i like the truck--its clean and i got it for a very good price--but i wonder if anyone else with a similar truck has noticed this or if it can be corrected. .
From : calf
1973 motors - auto repair manual *****covers***** american motors buick cadillac chevrolet chrysler corvair dodge ford imperial lincoln oldsmobile plymouth pontiac thunderbird volkswagen $30.00 .
From : budd cochran
it started after the new air filter but probably three months afterward. i put in the air filter in august but the problem did not start until the temps starting dropping into the low 40s and high 30s. jason .
From : beekeep
hey greg nate moved to montana last summer. budd on 3 dec 2004 192346 -0800 montanajeeper@aol.com montanajeeper wrote winter is taking a firm grip here in montana and no matter how long we idle the 04 cummins it wont warm the cab until after about 10 miles of interstate driving. trouble is its only 5 miles to work. the wifey is miserable with this and she wants me to trade it on a gas powered version so that she can get some heat. were buying her a new jeep in february and i want to hold her off on selling the 04 until then at which time ill take it over. i cant have her being cold going to and from work. i can plug it in 4 hours prior to cranking or all night long and it still wont warm up. i can plug it in all night long and then idle it 30 minutes before leaving and it still wont warm up. my old ford had an apc where i could set the rpm on anything i wanted and leave it there warming up. any way to do that on the dodge any ideas would be appreciated. thanks were still running around here in maryland in short sleeves during the day. my guess would be that its even warmer in n.c. the worst part is that you havent seen winter up there yet. beekeep .
From : tom lawrence
how bout keeping the gas tank full for a start there 250pounds right there on a 30 gal tank if you fill it with water gasoline is just over 6lbs./gallon. .
From : mac davis
hi folks - i need a little help... i have a 98 dakota 5.2 - 2 wheel drive - 190k on the motor and tranny. i was in definate need of clutch job my input bearing lost the needle bearings and the t/o bearing was worn pretty good. the discs had barely any left left in them but werent damaging. i took it down 2 wks. ago and replaced the input bearing with a new dealer part a clutch kit with t/o bearing centerforce 2 and both u joints napa. with the tranny down i tried to feel for any play in the shafts on the tranny. spun it around and went thru the gears by hand i didnt feel anything was loose or had any bad sounds other than i can hear the gears turning with the fluid drained. i put it all back together added royal purple synchromesh and ran it now for a week back and forth to work. during this time i can feel something else is not right. i can hear a whine which rises with rpm or motor mostly if not all the time. not loud but enough. also at higher road speeds in excess of 70 or 80 mph. i can feel a slight vibration. smooth vibration -- thats not right to me.. i put my ear on the tranny shifter knob while idleing and i can hear what sounds like is a gear turning all the time in any gear in nuetral or with clutch in or out. it doesnt stop spinning. i dont know if this is normal its only a description for diagnosis. it seems to shift well not binding or hard to shift it releases ok. any ideas - and can i fix it @ home i can rebuild a motor with no problems but i never dove into a tranny. thanks one thought. put the same fluid that was in the trans before. roy .
From : speeker
on sat 04 dec 2004 070724 gmt nosey kfrei43@removethis.hotmail.com wrote montanajeeper wrote winter is taking a firm grip here in montana and no matter how long we idle the 04 cummins it wont warm the cab until after about 10 miles of interstate driving. trouble is its only 5 miles to work. the wifey is miserable with this and she wants me to trade it on a gas powered version so that she can get some heat. were buying her a new jeep in february and i want to hold her off on selling the 04 until then at which time ill take it over. i cant have her being cold going to and from work. i can plug it in 4 hours prior to cranking or all night long and it still wont warm up. i can plug it in all night long and then idle it 30 minutes before leaving and it still wont warm up. my old ford had an apc where i could set the rpm on anything i wanted and leave it there warming up. any way to do that on the dodge any ideas would be appreciated. thanks maybe something like this will help. http//www.sportsimportsltd.com/12vocarvvabo.html yeah i was going to suggest that... ive seen several kinds at truck stops even some with timers to have it start heating before youre in the truck.. .
From : mike simmons
gentlemen thank you for your responses heres an update on my efforts. i had the current battery tested and it was ok however given its age i replaced it anyway since winter is coming and it is the original battery. unfortunately the problem still exists. since tbone mentioned it may be a fuel pump i did confirm that when i turn the key on the fuel pump does at least turn on and make noise; however im not sure how i can actually test it to make sure it is pumping fuel. once the truck gets started and is warmed up fuel delivery does not appear to be a problem since it idles smoothly and acceleration is swift and constant. is it possible that the fuel pump would be temperature sensitve and only show signs of failure when cold also something to note is that during the first two to four times that i get it started i usually have to get it started about 5 times before it will stay running if i open the throttle even slightly it will immediately stall the engine. after about the 5th start i can slowly open the throttle and it will stay running. i have to be careful about easing on and off the throttle though during the warmup period usually about 3 to 5 minutes of running at 2000 rpm because if i let off too quickly the rpms will drop too quickly and it will stall out. i have learned something else about the heater fan too. if i turn the fan on high before i start the engine then it doesnt kill the engine like it does if i turn the fan on high after i start the engine. now that weve elminated the battery does anyone have any other suggestions thank you for your help. jason while many of those symptoms sound like the fuel pump the fan part is confusing. check your battery i bet that it is going bad. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving i have a 97 ram 4x4 with a 5.9l 360 that has developed a cold weather starting problem recently. the engine cranks fine and always tries to fire on the first few revolutions but after about three revolutions it will not even attempt to fire anymore. to get it started i have to crank about 3 to 5 revolutions then stop then wait about 3 seconds try again then repeat the process for about 10 cycles. eventually it will wire up run for about 5 seconds then die. if i try to give it gas it dies even more quickly. after about the 5th successful fire it will then idle ok and if i give it gas really slowly i can rev it up to about 2500 and run it there for about 5 minutes then everything is fine. during that first five minutes if i turn the heater fan on high it will kill the engine i can turn it on low without killing it. after it warms up i can shut it off and it starts right back up immediately. it also runs fine no hesitation or rough idle problems. if i let it sit for more than a couple hours when temp is below 40 i have to go through the whole routine again. the plugs and wires are about 4 months old and has new k&n air filter. any ideas thanks jason .
From : budd cochran
on mon 06 dec 2004 054416 gmt fmb fmbb@sbcglobal.net wrote on sun 05 dec 2004 211956 gmt fmb fmbb@sbcglobal.net wrote i put a set of rs9000s on the 03 2500 ctd 4wd and after a few thousand miles i have a rattle coming from the back end somewhere. it rattles when i hit small bumps in residential neighborhoods. i crawled under and push/pulled on everything in sight. the rr shock is solid the lr shock seems to be loose at the bottom bracket. its like if the shock hole was a bit larger than the mounting bolt hole and with no tension it can be rocked back and forth. is this normal is this a mounting problem tighten it up or a shock problem warrantee. i have it set to 1 with no load ill try it set to 3 later today and see if there is any difference in the rattle. or maybe sandbags for extra weight .... oh crap nevermind i didnt mention sandbags. sandbags we doan ned no steenken sanbags.. those shocks werent owner installed were they when you crawled under the truck was it on stands or still on the ground hopefully it was up on stands and you could try shaking the bracket as well as the shock mac yeah my son and i did the install. when i crawled under the truck it was not on stands. it wasnt jacked up. there was plenty of room for my belly with the trucks tires firmly on the ground. the bracket that is welded to the axle housing is firm. the bolt that passes through that bracket passes through the loose shock. just wondering as i was taught to check shock & mounting hardware first with the wheels on the ground then with the truck on a lift or jacks with no weight on the shocks.. sometimes a loose or bad fitting mount will only show up when you play with the jack until the shock is sort of at a neutral position where the wheel is still on the ground but not hanging on the shock yet.. .
From : carolina watercraft works inc
http//www.webasto.us/press/en/amtrucksheaters823.html -- ------------------------------------------------------------ laszlo almasi carolina watercraft works inc. raleigh nc 27604 919-274-1192 loballeng@mindspring.com life is great when you dont have any issues to deal with i recall seeing a heater setup for the cummins that was basically a small water heater that circulated the coolant through the engine. made for rapid warm-up and eliminated the need for a block heater. i believe the show was trucks a while back. id have to do some searching but thats what i was going to do when i get my ctd next year. -- ------------------------------------------------------------ laszlo almasi carolina watercraft works inc. raleigh nc 27604 919-274-1192 loballeng@mindspring.com life is great when you dont have any issues to deal with winter is taking a firm grip here in montana and no matter how long we idle the 04 cummins it wont warm the cab until after about 10 miles of interstate driving. trouble is its only 5 miles to work. the wifey is miserable with this and she wants me to trade it on a gas powered version so that she can get some heat. were buying her a new jeep in february and i want to hold her off on selling the 04 until then at which time ill take it over. i cant have her being cold going to and from work. i can plug it in 4 hours prior to cranking or all night long and it still wont warm up. i can plug it in all night long and then idle it 30 minutes before leaving and it still wont warm up. my old ford had an apc where i could set the rpm on anything i wanted and leave it there warming up. any way to do that on the dodge any ideas would be appreciated. thanks .
From : theguy
montanajeeper wrote winter is taking a firm grip here in montana and no matter how long we idle the 04 cummins it wont warm the cab until after about 10 miles of interstate driving. trouble is its only 5 miles to work. the wifey is miserable with this and she wants me to trade it on a gas powered version so that she can get some heat. were buying her a new jeep in february and i want to hold her off on selling the 04 until then at which time ill take it over. i cant have her being cold going to and from work. i can plug it in 4 hours prior to cranking or all night long and it still wont warm up. i can plug it in all night long and then idle it 30 minutes before leaving and it still wont warm up. my old ford had an apc where i could set the rpm on anything i wanted and leave it there warming up. any way to do that on the dodge any ideas would be appreciated. thanks maybe something like this will help. http//www.sportsimportsltd.com/12vocarvvabo.html .
From : nosey
trucks - keep on truckin these powerful trucks help keep your business going.... http//www.wenmarcorp.com/trucks/ .
From : Annonymous
its probably ok .. i have a 87 truck that i bought recently. well i have seen that when the motor gets hotter the oil pressure drops but i can sit still rev it and the pressure will come up alil ..i am not in a position to install a new pump and no funds to...could someone give me some alternativesto what it could be... thank you .
From : jerry
on sat 04 dec 2004 053101 gmt jerry jlrice1655@earthlink.net wrote tom lawrence wrote theres also a flash the dealer can perform to enable a manual high-idle setting - you use the cruise control buttons to activate the high idle. thats one i never heard about. was it a tsb or just something you ask for from the dealer....... i would be interested in having that done. the only high idle im familiar with is for the autos. after a certain period a couple of minutes of idling under cold temperatures the idle automatically ramps up to about 1100 rpms. if you touch the gas or brake it doesnt activate or if activated it idles back down to normal idle rpm. some trucks had to have this feature flashed in and turned on by the dealer. my 03 came with the feature already in the ecm and it works very well. it still wont warm the truck up to normal temp though. my truck is cold blooded too. i use the block heater but it wont warm it up to normal temp. only driving about 10 miles or more if it real cold on the highway will do that. my truck starts blowing out warm air well before it gets to normal operating temp. though. if i use the block heater it starts blowing out fairly warm air after a mile or so. now - just doing some out-loud thinking here... other versions of the cummins isbe have a three-cylinder mode again aimed at cold-weather warmup. i wonder if it would be possible to splice into the fuel injector harnesses and add some relays to disable three of the injectors i thought that was just for extended idle periods and not necessarily for bringing the engine up to operating temperatures i know there is a tsb out where you can have that done on the dodge. jerry .
From : carolina watercraft works inc
on sun 05 dec 2004 211956 gmt fmb fmbb@sbcglobal.net wrote i put a set of rs9000s on the 03 2500 ctd 4wd and after a few thousand miles i have a rattle coming from the back end somewhere. it rattles when i hit small bumps in residential neighborhoods. i crawled under and push/pulled on everything in sight. the rr shock is solid the lr shock seems to be loose at the bottom bracket. its like if the shock hole was a bit larger than the mounting bolt hole and with no tension it can be rocked back and forth. is this normal is this a mounting problem tighten it up or a shock problem warrantee. i have it set to 1 with no load ill try it set to 3 later today and see if there is any difference in the rattle. or maybe sandbags for extra weight .... oh crap nevermind i didnt mention sandbags. sandbags we doan ned no steenken sanbags.. those shocks werent owner installed were they when you crawled under the truck was it on stands or still on the ground hopefully it was up on stands and you could try shaking the bracket as well as the shock .
From : carolina watercraft works inc
on sun 5 dec 2004 135245 -0500 kilmister briansantoro@yahoo.com wrote couldnt find the weight for gas but that still is a fair amount. i used to use patio stones until the thought of one flying out and slicing thru a car in an accident. then bags of gravel but the plastic fell apart by spring and made a mess. now i just drive with good winters on it and i get good enough traction. now theyll tell you that your good winters arent needed... they might help but not needed... damn if ya do damned if ya dont..lol how bout keeping the gas tank full for a start there 250pounds right there on a 30 gal tank if you fill it with water gasoline is just over 6lbs./gallon. .
From : beekeep
thanks trey that doesnt sound like that good of a deal but its always hard to tell. i am looking at slt highest before leather with auto/posi trac/ctd/power seat/trailer tow. they list at about 40500 at this equpment. last summer they were selling for about 31000 with the rebates but are higher now. phil pj wrote looking at a new dodge ram diesel -- about 40000 list. dealer will go 3% below invoice to about 33000. anyone else purchased a 2005 -- price paid what trim level 2wd or 4wd auto or manual a guy at wrok just got a ram 4x4 auto cummins pre 600 the highest trim level before they put leather in there. i think he paid 32000 for it used 6000 miles on the clock. .
From : tom lawrence
tom lawrence wrote theres also a flash the dealer can perform to enable a manual high-idle setting - you use the cruise control buttons to activate the high idle. thats one i never heard about. was it a tsb or just something you ask for from the dealer....... i would be interested in having that done. now - just doing some out-loud thinking here... other versions of the cummins isbe have a three-cylinder mode again aimed at cold-weather warmup. i wonder if it would be possible to splice into the fuel injector harnesses and add some relays to disable three of the injectors i thought that was just for extended idle periods and not necessarily for bringing the engine up to operating temperatures i know there is a tsb out where you can have that done on the dodge. jerry .
From : budd cochran
couple of options here... an exhaust brake would help along with the fast idle does yours idle up to 1000rpm it should. theres also a flash the dealer can perform to enable a manual high-idle setting - you use the cruise control buttons to activate the high idle. the problems on the exhaust brake are theyre expensive and currently not dc-approved for use on automatics. the second option i offer for informational purposes - you decide whether or not you feel comfortable in doing it. you can start the truck apply the e-brake and place the trans in drive. the added load of the torque converter/etc. turning around will generate enough heat to bring the truck up to temp. now - just doing some out-loud thinking here... other versions of the cummins isbe have a three-cylinder mode again aimed at cold-weather warmup. i wonder if it would be possible to splice into the fuel injector harnesses and add some relays to disable three of the injectors .
From : jerry
like a lot of preachers a lot of noise with no content! aint got a hemi so make a lot of noise! on fri 03 dec 2004 224432 gmt trey treydog90spam@hotmail.com wrote ninebal310 wrote i had teh cat-back dual exhaust put on my 2001 dakota 4.7. no muffler. sounds good. it seems to have a little more low end. not much but a little. $210. hank and what is the point of no muffler probably to bother the neighbors and set off car alarms... .
From : jerry
jasolution@yahoo.com wrote it started after the new air filter but probably three months afterward. i put in the air filter in august but the problem did not start until the temps starting dropping into the low 40s and high 30s. jason i was thinking that maybe the filter oil is gumming up the electronic engine controls. .