tranny service advice
From : jim schultz
Q: when was the last time fluid was changed i hope by 60k youd had it done at least once. i change mine every 15k because i tow and live in the desert. if your manual states atf+4 then do not use atf+3 with a modifier. no need to drop the pan and change the filter every time if fluid is changed frequently. i have the pan dropped every other time 30k. jim schultz wrote hello... couple questions for the transmission gurus around here. first off my truck is a 2000 ram ctd quadcab shortbed 3.55 gears all stock 61000 miles. i plan on doing the 60k service which includes transmission fluid filter and adjust bands. the transmission seems fine...upshifts and downshifts great and no shudder or slippage. after talking to a couple shops seems like i have 2-3 alternatives to attack the transmission. 1 drop pan and change filter reinstall and add fluid.could also have shop lower valve body to get even more fluid out. 2 leave pan installed and use a flush machine to circulate new +4 oil into the tranny. 3a local shop suggested using their flush machine to circulateclean and refill using atf+3 and a friction modifier lubeguard 63010 the shop owner has a ram and said thats all hes ever done to his truck and its fine.he even went as far as to say lubeguard gaurantees my transmission after the product is installed. my choice so far is number 2....seems like using brand new oil throughout the tranny would be besteven though there is a downside of not changing the screen. my concern with this approach also is the flush machine connections at the cooler. is there any chance of damage to connections or possibly loosening something that could cause engine coolant to contaminate transmission oil next question...do my bands need attention even if it seems to shift fine sorry for the long post and alsothanks in advance for taking time for me. .
Replies:
From : Annonymous
go to woodalls.com they have a forum for every type of campingcampercampgrounds need help with a coleman ac shroud. mine vanished! al .
From : tom lawrence
big al wrote need help with a coleman ac shroud. mine vanished! al over there. watch out for 351cj and a guy who calls himself mike simmons. gee..... thanks! btw camping world has replacement shrouds for your coleman a/c unit. the oem shroud is a fairly thin plastic that degrades with exposure to sunlight. the constant vibration and buffeting causes the shroud to crack and eventually fly off. i just took a 3000 mile trip with my rv and prolly saw two or three shrouds alongside the interstate. using a uv inhibitor like 303 protectant will keep the shroud in better shape longer but eventually they all let loose. www.campingworld.com hope this helps! mike the guy to watch out for! ^ mike thanks for the info. i called them and they have the original and a replacement that has a lifetime warranty. why should i watch out for you al in your initial post one of our resident smartasses warned you to watch out for me.... an inside joke... ;^ mike .
From : tom lawrence
i really do appreciate the translation and will be adding it to the same thread. what program did you use for that -- nathan w. collier http//inlinediesel.com http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com http//bighornrefrigeration.com translation sent........ remember it is a rough translation and there is no spell checker in my jpg program.... .
From : Annonymous
on thu 06 oct 2005 004328 gmt dennis lawrenceda@hotmail.com wrote i have a 26-5c arctic fox 2006 5th wheel on order due end of october. i visited the dealer today and found he has a 2005 model sitting in his inventory. he told me that the previous owner had a 360 dodge gas truck and had problems pulling this unit. frankly this scared the blazes out of me. my truck is a 97 - 3/4 ton ctd 12 valve. i know the truck has 180 hp and 420 ft lbs of torque. its an auto. transmission and i dont intend ever using the od feature with this new trailer. i know nothing about the power of a 360 dodge vs my truck. do i need to be worried not worried but a little concerned. i pulled about that same weight with a 360 gasser and was just not happy. at least you have a 2500 mine was a 1500 and the weight was just too much for the rear end. it swayed all over. the problem with the weight and a 2500 is discussedall the time over at tdr everyone has their own opinion. i think you will be ok but you will probably be over the rating of the truck. if i remember right the 2500 is 8800 lb maybe 9000. your truck is probably around 7200 to 7400 so you have about 1500 to 1800 pounds to stay within the rating dodge gives you. you addd what you put in the trailer propane water the pin weight of the truck you and your passengers etc. and you are probably over. i dont think that is a big deal and the truck will be fine but for peace of mind you may want to look at a 3500 srw which gives you another 9900 pounds rating. now on the tranny. my first ctd had the 47re which may be what you have. i think you are over the ability of that tranny to tow for any period of time. that tranny was the weak spot in my 01 ctd. cant tell you haw many people i meet that have the 47re that have had to rebuild the tranny several times. in late 03 dodge went to the 48re and that is what i have now. it is a huge improvement and i havve had no trouble towing 11k with it. the 12 valve does pull good though especially at lower rpms. i talk to some people that like it better than the 24 valve. you could upgrade the tranny to ats or dtt and then spice up the engince with some mods. btw the fox is a great fifth wheel. i didnt get one but as i looked around i found no one that didnt love theirs. they are made in oregon. .
From : Annonymous
dennis you should love your fox very well built and handles well. i have an 04 24-5n and have almost 25000 miles on it coast to coast and up to coldfoot ak and back. we chose the 24-5n to ride behind our 03 2500 ctd 4wd lb to stay within the weight limits of the truck. with a 1200# pin weight dry the fresh and black water tanks forward of the foxs axles the way my wife packs i didnt say packrat did i and the weight of her me and the stuff in the cab weight was a concern. will your ctd pull it oh yeah....... it will pull it just fine. is it within the weight limits of your truck brakes suspension etc i dunno you may want to look into that if you havent already. the fox you picked looks real nice. a suggestion though dont take it to coldfoot. fmb .
From : tom lawrence
my wish list has daimlerchryco offering a 4 cylinder turbo diesel in the dakota. hell a na diesel would get my interest! me too and i dont see why they wouldnt. they have the liberty crd.... unless that would make way too much sense. .
From : bigironram
ljb notnub@sympatico.ca wrote aarcuda69062 wrote dennis lawrenceda@hotmail.com wrote i have a 26-5c arctic fox 2006 5th wheel on order due end of october. i visited the dealer today and found he has a 2005 model sitting in his inventory. he told me that the previous owner had a 360 dodge gas truck and had problems pulling this unit. frankly this scared the blazes out of me. my truck is a 97 - 3/4 ton ctd 12 valve. i know the truck has 180 hp and 420 ft lbs of torque. its an auto. transmission and i dont intend ever using the od feature with this new trailer. i know nothing about the power of a 360 dodge vs my truck. do i need to be worried yes be very worried. every time you encounter a grade while pulling your trailer with your ctd you run a very high risk of running the gassers over. ;- i have a 96 single axle 1 ton ctd extended cab long box auto with 3.55 axle and carry an 2000 lb truck camper which is like driving a billboard. only once have i taken it out of od. i get sick and tired of gassers than wont pull over into the 25-35 mph lane. i am quite sure that the 18 wheelers do to! my wife wants to move so i told her no problem pick a site get a big chain and i will haul the house to where you want! and your truck has more power. ljb i hear ya! not sure that snoman gets it though... i have a 92 w250 360 5 speed 4x4 w/4.10 gears and a 04 2500 ctd 6 speed 4x4 w/3.73 gears. the diesel will out pull the gas truck with out trying. and it gets better mileage pulling a 6000 pound trailer than the gas truck gets empty. gm has a 650 ft. pound diesel now. cant wait to see dodges response to it snowman needs to drive a new diesel and then tell us about it. al .
From : Annonymous
thanks to the successes of my ruv site http//utilityoffroad.com ive been featured on the back cover of a japanese magazine thats published by yamaha. if anyone is able to translate it for me it would be appreciated. http//utilityoffroad.com/forum/topic.asptopicid=5368 thanks -- nathan w. collier http//inlinediesel.com http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com http//bighornrefrigeration.com altavista has a translation page http//babelfish.altavista.com/. you can translate text you paste there or have it translate a webpage. on the same topic... for a fun http//www.rinkworks.com/dialect/ can translate any webpage or text into redneck jive cockney elmer fudd swedish chef moron pig latin or hacker. ;- bryan .
From : christopher thompson
here is my take on marriage..before a man marries he sits there watching x-rated videos and says mani wish i had a real woman here so i could be doing that!..after he is married awhile he sits there and says mani wish shed go out somewhere so i could watch some of my porn videos! .
From : tbone
i assume the battery is not under warranty i think this is a bit abnormal as the truck never was turning over slowly or the lights dim or anything just seemed to take me by surprise. thanks come on guys no more doom im in my 02 dak with tow pkg and 1000 kms from home and the rockies to cross in 3 days hope mine doesnt bail in some mtn pass .... ron .
From : max dodge
max dodge wrote yup after several years of blown head gaskets they lowered the compression ratio. nah they did that to increase performance. ;^ .
From : coasty
when in doubt ask comes to mind. by all means ask... insinuating im trying to feed you a line of bullshit to me goes beyond simply asking. .
From : Annonymous
i totally agree. it makes absolutely no sense to spin a bunch of gears bearing shafts u-joints and seals that should be at rest. besides the loss of mileage how about wear and tear is this another thing you have to give up to have a truck that is less expensive than a ford or gm product or do they also have full-time locked hubs. at the very least why not offer it as an option i remember my 80 f-150 had locking hubs. if they were engaged you could feel it in the steering wheel. it made a bit more noise. it also needed a little more force on the brake pedal to stop it. unlocked gave you a noticeable difference in gas mileage as well as a smoother ride. dynatrac does offer a kit but at $1500 its not cost effective. at $330 savings per year payback in five years isnt worth it. .
From : tbone
yes i have an 05 ram and even with the light off and the truck running it looks like its flickers havent had the truck but a week and tonight driving home from the lake with the boat in tow. i noticed something a little odd. i thought. when running with the low beams on i would intermittently see the high beam indicator flicker. nothing major the lights them selves didnt seem to switch to high even momentaraly. no biggie just odd. so my question is.. has any one else noticed/heard of this. is it normal for these dr trucks this was the first time driving at night with the new truck. chris .
From : denny
steve lusardi wrote i own an 04 3500 and have noticed multiple complaints among ram owners about drive shaft balence. i bought my truck new and the vibration could just barely be detected but as i used the truck the vibretion has become more pronounced. i am certain that my vibretion is shaft balence but it only occurs at very high speed. i have 4.10s so i live with it. steve i have a 99 2wd ctd with around 80k also pulling 5er and have vibration around 60 - 65 mph pulling the 5er. u-joints check out fine. interested in learning how/if you solve this problem. fred my 1998 12 valve diesel has 191000 miles on it. i developed a vibration in the ride that persists from around 40 to 75 mph. i needed new tires so i purchased a set of lt/ms michelins. i also had the ball joints replaced and the shocks are less than 6 months old. the vibration is still there. i pull a big fifth wheel with this truck. the steering seems a little loose. anyone have any ideas or experience with this problem thanks in advance. svengali82@yahoo.com typically when a drive shaft is out of balance it will make itself known only at certain speeds if it is not too far out of balance. most drive shafts are not well balanced from the factory. ----------------- www.thesnoman.com .
From : max dodge
if only everybody would do that. maybe he can argue with himself for awhile. denny so youre saying we should shun him maybe because hes a zombie http//extremewisdom.com/images/best.wmv not bad.. i dont care what his politics are i just get tired of his endless tirades on any given subject. i hate to admit it but sometimes i have to agree with him but a good percentage no pun intended of the times his knowledge of how things work comes from fantasy island. and dont dare to tell him hes wrong. denny .
From : jerry
i own an 04 3500 and have noticed multiple complaints among ram owners about drive shaft balence. i bought my truck new and the vibration could just barely be detected but as i used the truck the vibretion has become more pronounced. i am certain that my vibretion is shaft balence but it only occurs at very high speed. i have 4.10s so i live with it. steve i have a 99 2wd ctd with around 80k also pulling 5er and have vibration around 60 - 65 mph pulling the 5er. u-joints check out fine. interested in learning how/if you solve this problem. fred my 1998 12 valve diesel has 191000 miles on it. i developed a vibration in the ride that persists from around 40 to 75 mph. i needed new tires so i purchased a set of lt/ms michelins. i also had the ball joints replaced and the shocks are less than 6 months old. the vibration is still there. i pull a big fifth wheel with this truck. the steering seems a little loose. anyone have any ideas or experience with this problem thanks in advance. svengali82@yahoo.com .
From : denny
excuse my ignorance but what is an intercooler as the compressed air comes out of the turbo it is very hot. it is routed thru an intercooler radiator to cool down the air before it goes into the intake manifold. its there to help make a few more hp. denny .
From : tom lawrence
tbone wrote not a thing other than you shouldnt have to. so manufactures should assume that all 1500 ram truck buyers are going to tow 5000lbs up 8% mountain grades in 115 degree heat and equip the base model to handle it if you ordered the towing package absolutely. in that case the worst case scenario should be what it equipped with especially since you are paying extra for it and if not then it should still come equipped to deal with heavy traffic conditions since in todays world there is a lot more of it and many people are using these trucks as passenger vehicles just like you. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : john smith
wddodge@woh.rr.com writes and i thought we got lucky for once....... before buying a new injector try moving #7 injector to #5 and run it awhile till the fault comes back. if the fault moves to #5 cyl you know you have a bad injector. if it stays on #7 you saved a hundred bucks and eliminated a possibility. i still have a sneaky feeling a valve is sticking in the guide at times causing the fault. thanks denny. just keep in mind that it only happens at low rpm either decel from 30 mph to a stop and/or else sitting at a light idling in gear. sitting in the shop idling in gear we could see multiple misfires counting up always on #7. raise rpm above 9001000 and the misfires stop. the injector swap is about the last card in my deck. its just been too freakin hot to work on it. it was 100 degrees wednesday 98 yesterday and 97 today. maybe the hurricane will cool things off for a while. .
From : jerry
and what professionals are we talking about here - lol absolutely. this is no a do-it-yourself moment leave this one to the professionals. will go to a dealer. requires special tool not publicly available because of theft issues could cause much more damage trying to fix it - tilt wheel and all. might seem to be getting better when youre actually loosening critical components of the steering mechanism. again take it to a dealer. jeff i have a 2001 durango and the ignition cylinder is jammed and no amount of wheel jiggling and key wiggling will get it to turn. so does anybody have any info on causes and solutions. im pretty sure im gonna have to change it at this point so if you know of any special tools or tips id appreciate it. .
From : mike simmons
your email made it a couple of days ago. apparently my reply didnt make the trip. sooooo i guess your putor is still stupid. roy send it again i thinks its working now denny on the way!! roy something is a bit off. heres the story. received your email 9/22 @ 617pm responded to it 9/23@ 131 am. received parachute jump 9/23 @ 545am. seems like the email aint happening. ill send ya something right now. roy .
From : miles
on thu 22 sep 2005 173015 -0500 greg o goo1959@cableone.net wrote on mon 19 sep 2005 172528 -0700 azwiley1 azwiley1@cox.net wrote i just thought i would share with everyone that i had my funeral err... i mean wedding this weekend. dont let the honeymoon go seven days - it makes the whole week. beekeep i think the line is it makes one week greg no - it makes the hole weak. beekeep .
From : tbone
gee max such a solid defense of the superiority of the cummins. how could anyone dispute this lol! easy. let the product speak for itself. yeah the cummins is that much better. but without facts this is just your opinion. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : tbone
back in may my firestone dealer replaced the left lower ball joint. have been noticing some squeaking that appears to be coming from the left front. when i looked it over it appears that the boot on that balljoint is loose theres a gap between the boot and balljoint. question is arent the boots supposed to seal the balljoint .
From : miles
tsk tsk tsk....... tom dontcha know you are just wasting your time sigh i know... but... but... he cant... i mean... no one could be that... cmon... not that.... well maybe.... but still... aw hell.... .
From : roy
your email made it a couple of days ago. apparently my reply didnt make the trip. sooooo i guess your putor is still stupid. roy send it again i thinks its working now denny on the way!! roy something is a bit off. heres the story. received your email 9/22 @ 617pm responded to it 9/23@ 131 am. received parachute jump 9/23 @ 545am. seems like the email aint happening. ill send ya something right now. roy set ya 4 emails. roy i got it i think. you are using the spoof address for your email. im hitting reply and it isnt working. roy .
From : tom lawrence
in this case since the change would happen probably only once in the lifetime of the vehicle or at least the transmission then no it is not excessive in that case. well hoo-ray. and now since you claim that the majority of people fall under the light-duty maintenance schedule what is it exactly that youre complaining about in the first place .
From : miles
extra for it and if not then it should still come equipped to deal with heavy traffic conditions since in todays world there is a lot more of it and many people are using these trucks as passenger vehicles just like you. gasp by heavy traffic you mean stop-and-go driving which would fall under schedule b .
From : tbone
tsk tsk tsk....... tom dontcha know you are just wasting your time sigh i know... but... but... he cant... i mean... no one could be that... cmon... not that.... well maybe.... but still... aw hell.... yeah i know... i too tried correcting the lad so he wouldnt labor under his many misconceptions and wouldnt further promulgate misinformation in the ng but after butting heads a few times i quickly learned that it is a total waste of time. hopefully the folks who read his crap will recognize him for the fool that he is... mike .
From : tbone
tbone wrote if you ordered the towing package absolutely. in that case the worst case scenario should be what it equipped with especially since you are paying extra for it and if not then it should still come equipped to deal with heavy traffic conditions since in todays world there is a lot more of it and many people are using these trucks as passenger vehicles just like you. oh come now tbone peoples needs vary widely. if they made it for the worst case scerio then theyd have to charge more for it. now everyone has to pay more even if they dont need it. possibly they could have different levels of tow packages but the market would be too limited for mass production. thus they leave that market sector to the aftermarket. lol oh bullshit miles you just like to argue and at times make an ass out of yourself. there are times to cut costs and times not to and if you are going to offer a towing package then it should be complete or dont bother doing it at all. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : tom lawrence
wrote tbone wrote nosey wrote why is nada so far off or are the other two off check the prices in your local paper for similar vehicles dodge ford and gm. people in your local area will be shopping around so it doesnt hurt to get an idea of what the competition has up for sale. if you live where it snows consider waiting a month or two before selling it. when the snow flakes fly 4x4 prices go up. and when the fuel prices go up the price comes down. given the current pricing on new models that have full warranties too and the surplus of new and used 4x4 in general these days it will not bring much. i do not want to sound cold or uncaring but if you can get 9000 grand for it run to the bank with the money because bieing that it is basically 7 years old now has over 100k on it and those models are not fuel thrifty either as you likely know first hand. at this stage of the game its value will only decrease and if there is another big fuel scare and gas hits 3.50 gallon or more you will be lucky to get 6 grand for it. 9000 grand to 6 grand is one hell of a drop - as for the $3.50 gas price expect that by monday at the latest and expect it to go well beyond that. yes it is a big drop but i can remember when chysler auctioned off new gas hog cars for pennies on the dollar around 1980 at the cleveland stadium because fuel prices had jumped a lot and nobody wanted them this is why a lot of police departments used them for many years. there is a big shift coming in vehicle choice and big 4x4 are going to be dinosaurs soon. why do you think detriot is trying so hard to sell them now if you have one and it is paid for and like it keep it but if you do not like it and /or still are paying for it the longer you keep it the less it will be worth because not even snow will save you when gas hits $4/gallon. at those prices fuel payments can easily exceed the car payment. ----------------- www.thesnoman.com fuel prices are already more than one of my car payment and its a 4 banger commuter car. a bottom line hundai accent with $140 a month payments 5year 0down it is easy to pay more for gas just put 1200-1500miles a month and youve done it -- posted using the http//www.autoforumz.com interface at authors request articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards topic url http//www.autoforumz.com/dodge-truck-ftopict139184.html visit topic url to contact author reg. reqd. report abuse http//www.autoforumz.com/eform.phpp=675003 .
From : tom lawrence
extra for it and if not then it should still come equipped to deal with heavy traffic conditions since in todays world there is a lot more of it and many people are using these trucks as passenger vehicles just like you. gasp by heavy traffic you mean stop-and-go driving which would fall under schedule b yea if it happened every day and made up most of the mileage on the vehicle. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : tom lawrence
that is not what i said and i hope you know that. the user should not have to remove 12 bolts for a simple fluid change especially if they are required often. alright - since you seem to think most people fall under the light-duty maintenance schedule the transmission fluid changes are called for every 100k miles again - 2003 fsm. given that do you still feel that pulling 12 bolts is excessive in this case since the change would happen probably only once in the lifetime of the vehicle or at least the transmission then no it is not excessive in that case. still a pita but not excessive. still more work than should be required to change fluid especially if they know it needs to be done often. according to you most people shouldnt have to do this for 100k miles... shouldnt be a problem then right not if this is the case but according to you it is not. what year mine says no such thing and when you think about it the words make no sence at all. 2003 then like i said possibly using lower quality parts or possibly trying to cover their asses with their longer warranties. if you say so but mine says different. you want a scan of the page i have no reason not to believe you but it doesnt say much for their newer vehicles. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : tbone
2000 dodge fsm calls for medium duty schedule a atf change at 24k heavy duty schedule b at 12k. that is just about twice as often. lets deal with current applications. for the 48re dc calls for fluid/filter changes every 30000 miles for severe service from my 03 fsm. ford calls for the same from fords online publications. gm actually allison wants fluid/filter changes every 12000 miles from allisons online publications. now - whos excessive here but the allison is designed to make this level of service easy unlike ford and dc and from what i have heard it is a much stronger trans and therefore can be subjected to much more severe use requiring more frequent changes. with the advances in materials and lubrication it most certianly is better tell that to the supposedly-highest-technology transmission out there... both dodge and ford trannies can go over twice as long on fluid/filter changes. i would suspect that the allison could follow the dc and ford specs with no real problems under the same work loads. what really matters is the individual definitions of severity use that the makers are going by. especially when you pretty much have to take the trans apart remove the pan to do it. right.... because removing twelve bolts is just like disassembling the entire transmission. its no different than a differential tom... are you going to piss and moan about dana or aam axles as well for someone who tends to be a stickler for words you really are dropping the ball here. i said take it apart not completely disassemble it and since the pan is a part of the case you are taking it apart to get to the filter. and for each change you have to remove 4000 bolts to drop the pan only off by 3988. hey for you thats pretty damn good... yawn. doesnt have a drain remove and replace the filter while it continues to drip fluid on you only if youre stupid enough to put you head in the way. which is easy to do if you have never done it before. hope that the new gasket that comes with the kit is not damaged or folded so that it will leak for sure funny... i could have sworn my gasket was re-useable. oh yeah - thats because it is. and i guess indestructible as well and if by some magic it tears or is damaged while being removed can you get it at the auto-parts store reinstall the 4000 bolts that hold the pan on yep - just like the 4000 bolts that hold a differential cover on... who cares about the diff are we not talking about transmissions and btw i have never changed the fluid in a diff unless i swamped it and with the exception of the current pos dc 9 1/4 rear have never had a failure. making sure not to overtighten any of them or strip any of them correct. basic mechanical knowledge and practices are required. if you cant handle that youre better off paying someone who knows what theyre doing... just like anything else on the truck. which costs many people even more money since it does take longer to change the filter and fluid when you need to remove the damn pan to do it and time = $$$$$ for service work. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : max dodge
rm@blah.blah writes if it does i will! there are only 2 dealerships i trust here in houston and neither is dodge unfortunately. i never doubted they had the knowledge i just cant stand the markup they charge for simple services and their refusal to give an honest answer even if its i dont know. ive had good results at archer dodge on the sw fwy. theyre not exactly on my beaten trail but the two times ive had my truck in to them they took care of the problem w/minimal hassle. i also bought it from them. i might give them a shot at it if the cleaner doesnt work. .
From : tom lawrence
that is not what i said and i hope you know that. the user should not have to remove 12 bolts for a simple fluid change especially if they are required often. alright - since you seem to think most people fall under the light-duty maintenance schedule the transmission fluid changes are called for every 100k miles again - 2003 fsm. given that do you still feel that pulling 12 bolts is excessive still more work than should be required to change fluid especially if they know it needs to be done often. according to you most people shouldnt have to do this for 100k miles... shouldnt be a problem then right what year mine says no such thing and when you think about it the words make no sence at all. 2003 if you say so but mine says different. you want a scan of the page .
From : Annonymous
tbone wrote not a thing other than you shouldnt have to. so manufactures should assume that all 1500 ram truck buyers are going to tow 5000lbs up 8% mountain grades in 115 degree heat and equip the base model to handle it .
From : tbone
your email made it a couple of days ago. apparently my reply didnt make the trip. sooooo i guess your putor is still stupid. roy send it again i thinks its working now denny .
From : mike simmons
tbone wrote nosey wrote why is nada so far off or are the other two off check the prices in your local paper for similar vehicles dodge ford and gm. people in your local area will be shopping around so it doesnt hurt to get an idea of what the competition has up for sale. if you live where it snows consider waiting a month or two before selling it. when the snow flakes fly 4x4 prices go up. and when the fuel prices go up the price comes down. given the current pricing on new models that have full warranties too and the surplus of new and used 4x4 in general these days it will not bring much. i do not want to sound cold or uncaring but if you can get 9000 grand for it run to the bank with the money because bieing that it is basically 7 years old now has over 100k on it and those models are not fuel thrifty either as you likely know first hand. at this stage of the game its value will only decrease and if there is another big fuel scare and gas hits 3.50 gallon or more you will be lucky to get 6 grand for it. 9000 grand to 6 grand is one hell of a drop - as for the $3.50 gas price expect that by monday at the latest and expect it to go well beyond that. yes it is a big drop but i can remember when chysler auctioned off new gas hog cars for pennies on the dollar around 1980 at the cleveland stadium because fuel prices had jumped a lot and nobody wanted them this is why a lot of police departments used them for many years. there is a big shift coming in vehicle choice and big 4x4 are going to be dinosaurs soon. why do you think detriot is trying so hard to sell them now if you have one and it is paid for and like it keep it but if you do not like it and /or still are paying for it the longer you keep it the less it will be worth because not even snow will save you when gas hits $4/gallon. at those prices fuel payments can easily exceed the car payment. ----------------- www.thesnoman.com .
From : tbone
that to perform that service you still need to open the transmisssion which indicates that in its initial design this level of service was not expected. and again the exact same thing can be said for the dana 44 60 70 80 chrysler 9.25 aam 9.25 10.5 11.5. are you disassembling the axle when you change the fluid no - youre removing a cover. well now you are saying that you need to purchase a $600 option just to get what the damn thing needs in the first place lol! if you dont tow you dont need it. if you tow you need it. seems pretty straight-forward to me. and included in that cost is the aux. cooler the receiver wiring harnesses bigger battery etc. oh and by the way - that trailer tow option its a $350 option - not $600. again you make rediculous exaggerations to try and bolster a failed argument. sounds cheaper to go with the aftermarket and get better stuff for less. sure - you gonna get all that and get it installed and oh yeah warrantied for less than $350 go for it... really perhaps you should look at the allison 1000. that would be the one that wants 12000mile fluid changes right please explain how you remove the filter without it dripping fluid on your arms. i cant wait to here this magic. well for me - i remove the screws holding the filter in place. i then grab the filter by the one end pulling it down and away. the fluid drains into the catch pan and i dont get any on me. it just adds time and risk to the procedure which further demonstrates that this level of service was never intended with the design of this trans. its amazing how you can deduce that from the construction of the unit - especially when it clearly states in the service manual to change the fluid and filter at regular intervals. i keep going back to this but based on your twisted logic the same can be said for the axles as well. clearly they were never designed for this level of service. you have to remove the same amount of fasteners to change their fluid. and... according to dc you have to do it twice as often as the transmission fluid yep - they now spec. out 15000 mile fluid changes on front and rear diffs. so the only difference between doing a transmission fluid change and a differential fluid change is the three i could swear its now two screws torx screws holding the filter in place. thats it tom.... same gasket issues as the aams now have a reusable gasket as well same number of fasteners and in the case of the 11.5 rear about the same amount of fluid 4qts. - though ill argue that its easier dumping in a gallon of atf through the dipstick with a funnel than it is getting those bottles of gear oil up and into the diff fill plug hole. so - why is it acceptable or is it even acceptable in your eyes maybe all axles out there are crap in your esteemed estimation as well for a differential to require a cover pan removal but not a transmission tsk tsk tsk....... tom dontcha know you are just wasting your time ;^ mike .
From : tbone
lol boy tom your noise levels are reaching all new highs. how so were discussing dodge trucks and specifically transmissions. seems more signal-ish to me... that would be valid if your argument actually had any real meaning other than opinion bashing. axles unless you are under heavy duty schedule b or what is actually a heavily used commercial vehicle you never have to change the fluid in them correct... if youre of the minority see below of users that fall into the light-duty schedule a. most of us do not. yea you do you just dont realize it. at least according to the 97 fsm you dont. well in my 99 fsm under schedule b it calls for fluid changes every 12k miles so i was wrong before - the now-current 15k interval is actually longer than it was previously but since most people do not really fit into that catagory it really doesnt matter. this would indicate that they are also not designed with this level of maintenance in mind for the average user. the average user isnt capable of removing 12 bolts damn - the average sure has dropped off... that is not what i said and i hope you know that. the user should not have to remove 12 bolts for a simple fluid change especially if they are required often. trailer tow option its a $350 option - not $600. again you make rediculous exaggerations to try and bolster a failed argument. were you there when i ordered my truck that is what i had to pay for it well the current pricing is exactly what i quoted. im not interested in what happened 9 years ago... im talking about the present. and presently the tow package has an invoice price of $350. even still far from a huge exaggeration. if you only want to keep the transmission cool you dont need a receiver and if youre not hooking anything to the truck to pull around the transmission will never need to be cooled beyond the integrated cooler in the radiator. really not according to the fsm service schedule and you for that matter. yea and the one with the external filter as well as the drain plug and btw the gm site claims every 30000 but then again you are probably looking at the most extreme schedule again. im looking at the schedule that says use this if you tow. yea but tow how much are you saying that there is no difference between a person like mac that tows a trailer every now and then and a contractor that tows 6 days a week and how do you get the screws out without it dripping fluid on you or do you wait for an hour or so for it to stop dripping. given that youve never done this i understand your confusion. the filter is encased in a plastic box with a rubber gasket on the top. light hand pressure keeps the filter box sealed against the valve body via the gasket. with my other hand i remove the torx screws. its really not that difficult... certainly not as complex as say removing 12 bolts. still more work than should be required to change fluid especially if they know it needs to be done often. it says so for extreme duty applications which you all seem to think that you fit into. the average truck owner is nowhere near a heavy duty schedule b type of use. really see if any of this applies to you short trips of less than 10 miles driving in dusty conditions trailer towing long periods of engine idling 50% driving at sustained high speeds above 90f ambient stop and go driving day and night temps are below freezing off-road operation if any one of those applies congratulations - youre in the severe-duty service category. lol you forgot the key word that is in front of every one of these conditions in my fsm f r e q u e n t. having the occasional short trip towing a few times a year getting stuck in traffic every now and then and a few hot or cold days a year is hardly severe-duty and if you think so then you are not as bright as i thought you were. going through one or more of these conditions day in and day out like a taxi or a commercial vehicle or someone that lives in extreme weather conditions is a different story than the every now and then like the rest of us. would also indicate that for the greater percentage of owners changing fluid in them is not required. well then the authors of the fsm disagree with you. my fsm states note most vehicles are operated under the conditions listed for schedule b. what year mine says no such thing and when you think about it the words make no sence at all. if most vehicles are operated under schedule b conditions then schedule b should actually be schedule a since a reflects normal operation and the higher fitting percentage is always considered normal operations. youll understand if i take the word of the factory service manual over your opinion right if you say so but mine says different. i was not talking about the axles here so i said nothing about them at all
From : Annonymous
just call it pre-owned instead of used and itll be worth more. -rev steve k wrote im looking to sell my 1999 ram quadcab laramie slt 318 4x4 102000 miles cap and running boards. so i start looking at kelly blue book nada and edmunds to get a ballpark on its value. i start at nada.com value $12400. then i go to kellybluebook.com value private party $8960.00. i think edmunds was private party $8752 i paid $14000 for this two years ago. ive only put 25k miles on it. i was shocked at its decline in value. why is nada so far off or are the other two off thanks steve .
From : miles
in the archives for this group and other places i have be able to track down that i can have a p75/245 r16 stock tires p75/265 r16 or p75/285 r16 on my stock rims. i have found that it will alter both the shift points of my manual transmission and alter the accuracy of my speedometer. the larger tire will also give me less torque from a dead stop and will give me slightly better mileage. i have a dodge ram 1500 5.2l 318 with a 5 speed manual. i can easily smoke the tires so having less torque is not a issue either. the problem that i am trying to solve is poor proformance on wet roads. i live in las vegas nv and when it rains the baked in oil and junk on the road give me very poor traction both in starting and stoping. of the 3 sizes which will have the least impact on dry 90% of my driving time but increase the the grip on the wet roads i need new tires anyway and i am stuck on what to get. i know that the brand/tread design/type of tire along with 300lbs of weight in the back will help the traction issue probaly more then the size of the tires. the only down side i can find to wider tires is more a tendancy to hydroplane but i can control that with cautious driving in flooded areas and more expensive for the larger sizes. when i walk into a tire tire store what should i get size wise any suggesions are greatly appreicated thanks! paul 2001 dodge ram 5.2 2x4 slt laramine with 5 speed manual. i am gonna keep it for a long time unless gas goes over $10.00 per gal. l v d a t a n o s p a m a t c o x d o t n e t remove no spam and make it look normal to reply .
From : tom lawrence
your email made it a couple of days ago. apparently my reply didnt make the trip. sooooo i guess your putor is still stupid. roy .
From : christopher thompson
thanks gang. i just thought i would share with everyone that i had my funeral err... i mean wedding this weekend. .
From : tbone
i have a 99 2wd ctd with around 80k also pulling 5er and have vibration around 60 - 65 mph pulling the 5er. u-joints check out fine. interested in learning how/if you solve this problem. fred my 1998 12 valve diesel has 191000 miles on it. i developed a vibration in the ride that persists from around 40 to 75 mph. i needed new tires so i purchased a set of lt/ms michelins. i also had the ball joints replaced and the shocks are less than 6 months old. the vibration is still there. i pull a big fifth wheel with this truck. the steering seems a little loose. anyone have any ideas or experience with this problem thanks in advance. svengali82@yahoo.com .
From : tbone
nah just an idiot come back for more facts instead of corporate rhetoric. once again the king bullshitter of all time thinks that mindlessly repeating the word fact makes bullshit fact. .
From : john smith
snip i broke of a easy out in a broken head bolt once 30 years ago. i managed to drill it out with a nitrate bit just under the bore size and a very big drill motor and salvage the threads too. easy outs do not always work if the bolt wrung off to begin with because it was seized up. did that in an old chevy luv once...language was heard by all... cricket -- posted using the http//www.autoforumz.com interface at authors request articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards topic url http//www.autoforumz.com/dodge-broken-spark-plug-ftopict138574.html visit topic url to contact author reg. reqd. report abuse http//www.autoforumz.com/eform.phpp=673053 my neighbors heard my song when i tried to muscle a stuck plug out of a friends bb chevy at 3am. it was in a vega race car and when the plug snapped and i slammed my knuckles into the frame tube and i made all kinds of funny noises. one of my neighbors suddenly pops up next to me and scared the crap out of me just as i was beginning to be able to use my hand again. he had a tendency to do that. it wasnt the simple hey ill change the plugs tonight so we dont have to do it at the track! deal i thought it would be. it took us about 3 hours to get the rest of the plug out and lost most of our practice runs due to how late we were. we probably would have been better off just swapping heads as we had a set in the boxes...but they werent assembled...what a fun saturday it was. i remember all the fun i had working on cars and trucks everyday my hands hurt all the time now. bdk .
From : tom lawrence
that to perform that service you still need to open the transmisssion which indicates that in its initial design this level of service was not expected. and again the exact same thing can be said for the dana 44 60 70 80 chrysler 9.25 aam 9.25 10.5 11.5. are you disassembling the axle when you change the fluid no - youre removing a cover. well now you are saying that you need to purchase a $600 option just to get what the damn thing needs in the first place lol! if you dont tow you dont need it. if you tow you need it. seems pretty straight-forward to me. and included in that cost is the aux. cooler the receiver wiring harnesses bigger battery etc. oh and by the way - that trailer tow option its a $350 option - not $600. again you make rediculous exaggerations to try and bolster a failed argument. sounds cheaper to go with the aftermarket and get better stuff for less. sure - you gonna get all that and get it installed and oh yeah warrantied for less than $350 go for it... really perhaps you should look at the allison 1000. that would be the one that wants 12000mile fluid changes right please explain how you remove the filter without it dripping fluid on your arms. i cant wait to here this magic. well for me - i remove the screws holding the filter in place. i then grab the filter by the one end pulling it down and away. the fluid drains into the catch pan and i dont get any on me. it just adds time and risk to the procedure which further demonstrates that this level of service was never intended with the design of this trans. its amazing how you can deduce that from the construction of the unit - especially when it clearly states in the service manual to change the fluid and filter at regular intervals. i keep going back to this but based on your twisted logic the same can be said for the axles as well. clearly they were never designed for this level of service. you have to remove the same amount of fasteners to change their fluid. and... according to dc you have to do it twice as often as the transmission fluid yep - they now spec. out 15000 mile fluid changes on front and rear diffs. so the only difference between doing a transmission fluid change and a differential fluid change is the three i could swear its now two screws torx screws holding the filter in place. thats it tom.... same gasket issues as the aams now have a reusable gasket as well same number of fasteners and in the case of the 11.5 rear about the same amount of fluid 4qts. - though ill argue that its easier dumping in a gallon of atf through the dipstick with a funnel than it is getting those bottles of gear oil up and into the diff fill plug hole. so - why is it acceptable or is it even acceptable in your eyes maybe all axles out there are crap in your esteemed estimation as well for a differential to require a cover pan removal but not a transmission bad tom! its not good to bring facts and logic into one of these twisted fantasy land arguments. .
From : tom lawrence
that to perform that service you still need to open the transmisssion which indicates that in its initial design this level of service was not expected. and again the exact same thing can be said for the dana 44 60 70 80 chrysler 9.25 aam 9.25 10.5 11.5. are you disassembling the axle when you change the fluid no - youre removing a cover. lol boy tom your noise levels are reaching all new highs. as for the axles unless you are under heavy duty schedule b or what is actually a heavily used commercial vehicle you never have to change the fluid in them at least according to the 97 fsm you dont. this would indicate that they are also not designed with this level of maintenance in mind for the average user. well now you are saying that you need to purchase a $600 option just to get what the damn thing needs in the first place lol! if you dont tow you dont need it. if you tow you need it. funny that is not the thought comming from the trans experts in here. according to them you always need it. seems pretty straight-forward to me. and included in that cost is the aux. cooler the receiver wiring harnesses bigger battery etc. oh and by the way - that trailer tow option its a $350 option - not $600. again you make rediculous exaggerations to try and bolster a failed argument. were you there when i ordered my truck that is what i had to pay for it and $250 more than you claim is far from a rediculous exagguration. the only rediculous exagguration being made here is comming from you. sounds cheaper to go with the aftermarket and get better stuff for less. sure - you gonna get all that and get it installed and oh yeah warrantied for less than $350 go for it... if you only want to keep the transmission cool you dont need a receiver wiring harness for it or a bigger battery unless they perform some other function along those lines that the rest of us are unaware of. really perhaps you should look at the allison 1000. that would be the one that wants 12000mile fluid changes right yea and the one with the external filter as well as the drain plug and btw the gm site claims every 30000 but then again you are probably looking at the most extreme schedule again. please explain how you remove the filter without it dripping fluid on your arms. i cant wait to here this magic. well for me - i remove the screws holding the filter in place. i then grab the filter by the one end pulling it down and away. the fluid drains into the catch pan and i dont get any on me. and how do you get the screws out without it dripping fluid on you or do you wait for an hour or so for it to stop dripping. it just adds time and risk to the procedure which further demonstrates that this level of service was never intended with the design of this trans. its amazing how you can deduce that from the construction of the unit - especially when it clearly states in the service manual to change the fluid and filter at regular intervals. it says so for extreme duty applications which you all seem to think that you fit into. the average truck owner is nowhere near a heavy duty schedule b type of use. i keep going back to this but based on your twisted logic the same can be said for the axles as well. and again only the heavy duty schedule b even mentions the axles. this would also indicate that for the greater percentage of owners changing fluid in them is not required. clearly they were never designed for this level of service. hey you finally got it. for the average owner they are not!!! you have to remove the same amount of fasteners to change their fluid. and... according to dc you have to do it twice as often as the transmission fluid yep - they now spec. out 15000 mile fluid changes on front and rear diffs. perhaps because they are using lower quality components or you are once again using the most extreme schedule. so the only difference between doing a transmission fluid change and a differential fluid change is the three i could swear its now two screws torx screws holding the filter in place. thats it tom.... same gasket issues as the aams now have a reusable gasket as well same number of fasteners and in the case of the 11.5 rear about the same amount of fluid 4qts. - though ill argue that its easier dumping in a gallon of atf through the dipstick with a funnel than it is getting those bottles of gear oil up and into the diff fill plug hole. so - why is it acceptable or is it even acceptable in your eyes maybe all axles out there are crap in your esteemed estimation as well for a differential to require a cover pan removal but not a transmission i was not talking about the axles here so i said nothing about them at all so how do you know what i find acceptable or not -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : max dodge
on mon 19 sep 2005 172528 -0700 azwiley1 azwiley1@cox.net wrote i just thought i would share with everyone that i had my funeral err... i mean wedding this weekend. dont let the honeymoon go seven days - it makes the whole week. beekeep .
From : max dodge
im looking to sell my 1999 ram quadcab laramie slt 318 4x4 102000 miles cap and running boards. so i start looking at kelly blue book nada and edmunds to get a ballpark on its value. i start at nada.com value $12400. then i go to kellybluebook.com value private party $8960.00. i think edmunds was private party $8752 i paid $14000 for this two years ago. ive only put 25k miles on it. i was shocked at its decline in value. why is nada so far off or are the other two off thanks steve .
From : miles
azwiley1 azwiley1@cox.net wrote i just thought i would share with everyone that i had my funeral err... i mean wedding this weekend. first comes love then comes marriange then comes larry pushing the baby carriage congratulations to the both of you dale has anyone else noticed that even the writer of the wedding march thought it was a bad idea listen to the notes real close what do you hear dumb dumb duh dumb dumb duh dumb duh dumb..... ----== posted via feeds.com - unlimited-uncensored-secure usenet ==---- http//www.feeds.com the #1 group service in the world! 120000+ groups ----= east and west-coast server farms - total privacy via encryption =---- .
From : tom lawrence
since when is glow plugs bad one way or anoher you have to get some heat in a oil burner to light the wick in cold weather. yup and a grid heater does a fine job. heating the air that goes out is a stupid thing. heating the air that goes in works much better. unless of course its a duramax and you need to spray the fuel directly on a glowing piece of steel to get the engine to light off. sounds more like an old ford diesel more than a new modern diesel engine. also but what rule of logic is a inline design always better than a v engine an inline six will deliver more torque for the displacement than a v8. ever notice how the same b series engine keeps making more power but the others have redesigned from the blank paper at least once a compact v8 does rev smoother and is shorter so it allows for shorter hood or less intrusion into passanger compartment firewall. its a truck fer cryin out loud who gives a damn above 2500 rpm the dmax is a lot smoother than the cummins because though the cummins will rev to there and beyond it do not feel happy about it because the basic engine was designed from day one bore stroke and balance wise for operation at about 2200 rpm or less. um yeah which is where a diesel does most of its work. say that bigger heavier thing didnt exactly get noticed by you did it ever wonder why the cummins has better durability or why it has less moving parts which engine i would choice would depend on what i planned to do with it because they both have pluses and minuses and i have issues with a 1400 lb motor cummins in a p/u anyway. so do i id never put a cummins c series in a pickup although its been done. maybe thats why they used the 1100lb b series which btw makes for excellent traction in snow and doesnt notice the a/c running in summer nor the front axle locked in during winter. -- max give a man a match and he is warm for a short while. light him on fire and he is warm for the rest of his life. max dodge wrote and ooowheee its got glow plugs its still a v8 where an inline six is better. since when is glow plugs bad one way or anoher you have to get some heat in a oil burner to light the wick in cold weather. also but what rule of logic is a inline design always better than a v engine a compact v8 does rev smoother and is shorter so it allows for shorter hood or less intrusion into passanger compartment firewall. above 2500 rpm the dmax is a lot smoother than the cummins because though the cummins will rev to there and beyond it do not feel happy about it because the basic engine was designed from day one bore stroke and balance wise for operation at about 2200 rpm or less. which engine i would choice would depend on what i planned to do with it because they both have pluses and minuses and i have issues with a 1400 lb motor cummins in a p/u anyway. -- posted using the http//www.autoforumz.com interface at authors request articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards topic url http//www.autoforumz.com/dodge-ram-cummins-diesel-killer-ftopict138912.html visit topic url to contact author reg. reqd. report abuse http//www.autoforumz.com/eform.phpp=673115 .
From : denny
i think the battery falls under the 3yr/36000mi part of the warranty so mine was a no go i called the dealer and asked. i agree that it died a little early. mine also gave absolutely no warning. it was just dead. you could jump it and itd fire right up. as soon as you disconnected the jumper cables it would die at idle. im just glad mine died in september and not in january when it was cold and snowing. funny thing was it happened in the exact same parking spot where the battery in my old truck died 6 years ago. i assume the battery is not under warranty i think this is a bit abnormal as the truck never was turning over slowly or the lights dim or anything just seemed to take me by surprise. thanks .
From : Annonymous
oh no my mechanic didnt do a sloppy job. in fact theyre top notch. they do excellent work. i forgot to mention before that the dealer told my mechanic the clips were only needed if there was any type of gap in between the pad and the rotor. apparently the clips arent needed most of the time. oh well good luck. thanks for sharing your experience. i had a similar experience with my mechanic a few years ago. they did the work in a sloppy way and didnt bother to put the clips - anti-rattle spring - . on my car this time clips are put properly. the rattling occurs only when the brake is applied heavily and when the car is going downhill. thank you anyway. .
From : tom lawrence
tom lawrence wrote 2000 dodge fsm calls for medium duty schedule a atf change at 24k heavy duty schedule b at 12k. that is just about twice as often. lets deal with current applications. for the 48re dc calls for fluid/filter changes every 30000 miles for severe service from my 03 fsm. ford calls for the same from fords online publications. gm actually allison wants fluid/filter changes every 12000 miles from allisons online publications. pardon me while i completely side step this pissing contest and ask a question ... on the fluid/filter change called for by dc are they recommending a complete fluid change or just the nasty crap that falls when the pan comes off i have read that a complete change is preferable. however if i requested that of my 5 star service department they would look at me like i had 4 heads. i took my truck a free detail after i purchased it. when i drove into the service department the service guy came over and took my information ... meanwhile my truck is still idling while were standing less than 6 inches from the driver side front tire ... the next question floored me ... hey is this thang a diesel craig c. .
From : tbone
time for a new battery. my 02 dakota did the same thing 2 weeks ago. also have the tow package so i had get a big battery too. hi guys just went to leave work and get in my truck head to the gym then home. i get in my truck it is dead...no clicking hardly any lights at all. battery dead! i jump it leave it run for a while then it dies. before it died the light on the ac button was blinking and my radar detector and radio would cut out for a few seconds then start up but the motor would stay running. do you guys think my battery is beat or it just needs to be charged all day tomorrow i have the tow package so i guess i will need to larger batter if it is beat. what does the blinking ac light mean i have never seen this before...i am sure someone will ask about the gas i have plenty of gas in there. thanks for your help. joe .
From : nosey
azwiley1 wrote i just thought i would share with everyone that i had my funeral err... i mean wedding this weekend. congrats larry. .
From : snoman
say what flip wilson would say the devil made me do it dale denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote im not quite sure how it happened but a ruger super redhawk followed me home tonight. now if i just come up with a good explanation for the wife...... denny .
From : tbone
yep instead of redesigning the unit to handle the new requirements they instead just stuff more shit into the same bag iow turn a solid long life transmission into a high maintenance pos. wrong again. 1975 dodge fsm claims trans fluid and filter should be changed at 30k normallly 20k for severe service. 2000 dodge fsm calls for medium duty schedule a atf change at 24k heavy duty schedule b at 12k. given the higher heat and loading of od the maintenance is not high. secondly since the new transmissions are virtually the same but with an od ratio literally bolted on it hardly diminishes the quality of engineering or the track record of the trans as a whole. lol you just made my point again maxi. instead of redesigning the transmission to either better deal with the heat generated or make servicing it about as easy as an oil change they just stuffed more parts into a difficult to service unit requiring the owner to go to the aftermarket to get parts that are basically a requirement for reliable long term operation. wrong again. the trans now comes with a cooler for towing. second there are no more parts in the front section than there used to be. third its not difficult to service certainly no more so than its predecessor which wasnt difficult either. parts from the aftermarket arent required for long term operation. i have 62000 on mine and have changed the fluid twice. its about due for another change. im not sure where you get your information but you certainly dont have any real facts. -- max give a man a match and he is warm for a short while. light him on fire and he is warm for the rest of his life. that is because your dad is from a time when things were built to last unlike the junk that we have to deal with and accept as normal today. once again you prove yourself full of shit. the current a500/518/618/42/44/46/47/48rh/e are all the same design as the a727 and a904 transmissions. pull apart a 727 and the guts from it will interchange with the guts from the three speed section of a 46 with no differences except the tailshaft. the only other differences in going to the 47/48 are numbers of clutch plates so the drums have the snap ring groove cut in a different location. yep instead of redesigning the unit to handle the new requirements they instead just stuff more shit into the same bag iow turn a solid long life transmission into a high maintenance pos. the real difference which you have claimed to be smart enough to know is the heat generated by the od unit. this breaks down the atf which is what causes most of the failures associated with the od transmissions. lol you just made my point again maxi. instead of redesigning the transmission to either better deal with the heat generated or make servicing it about as easy as an oil change they just stuffed more parts into a difficult to service unit requiring the owner to go to the aftermarket to get parts that are basically a requirement for reliable long term operation. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : dave lee
i believe in doing it yourself whenever possible but a locking pin improperly set sliding into position and locking your steering while your on the freeway just seems like a bad idea. a better choice of words would be leave it to an experienced and knowledgeable mechanic. ive rebuilt motors changed out trannies even done my own alignments with a set of sliding rods but if my ignition cylinder locks up its going to the shop. of course this doesnt apply to my 61 lesabre ...... ignitions in the dash gday will and what professionals are we talking about here - lol absolutely. this is no a do-it-yourself moment leave this one to the professionals. will go to a dealer. requires special tool not publicly available because of theft issues could cause much more damage trying to fix it - tilt wheel and all. might seem to be getting better when youre actually loosening critical components of the steering mechanism. again take it to a dealer. jeff i have a 2001 durango and the ignition cylinder is jammed and no amount of wheel jiggling and key wiggling will get it to turn. so does anybody have any info on causes and solutions. im pretty sure im gonna have to change it at this point so if you know of any special tools or tips id appreciate it. .
From : tbone
lol no it is very common. my mother is 81 and catches my errors all the time yet cant remember what she had for breakfast. not to nitpick but the term is moot. one of those senior citizen brain farts i guess.... jerry .
From : bryan
dave lee wrote jerry wrote however all this is mute as chrysler announced last month in response ... not to nitpick but the term is moot. one of those senior citizen brain farts i guess.... jerry .
From : tom lawrence
when in doubt ask comes to mind. -- coasty remove the spooge to reply this it smells like a big bull stinky. i have been wrong before. what would be my motivation to lie heres a picture. see that thing sticking up at about the 1 oclock position http//home.earthlink.net/tlawrence54/img0341.jpg .
From : roy
this it smells like a big bull stinky. i have been wrong before. what would be my motivation to lie heres a picture. see that thing sticking up at about the 1 oclock position http//home.earthlink.net/tlawrence54/img0341.jpg .
From : john kunkel
drain plug in a troque converter any chysler techs out there to confirm this it smells like a big bull stinky. i have been wrong before. can you say aftermarket ding ding ding ding ding .
From : miles
gee max such a solid defense of the superiority of the cummins. how could anyone dispute this lol! easy. let the product speak for itself. yeah the cummins is that much better. -- max give a man a match and he is warm for a short while. light him on fire and he is warm for the rest of his life. gee max such a solid defense of the superiority of the cummins. how could anyone dispute this lol! -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving yup after several years of blown head gaskets they lowered the compression ratio. and ooowheee its got glow plugs its still a v8 where an inline six is better. -- max give a man a match and he is warm for a short while. light him on fire and he is warm for the rest of his life. as usual max was wrong!!!! the duramax diesel is still going strong after several years of proven reliability. 2006 duramax 6600 turbodiesel to deliver class-leading torque in a more powerful and refined package engine output for chevy silverado hd and gmc sierra hd increased to 360 horsepower and a class-leading 650 lb-ft of torque new glow-plugs reduce start time by as much as 50 percent pontiac mich. later this year gm powertrain will introduce a new 6.6l duramax 6600 turbodiesel v-8 rpo lbz for the 2006 model year chevy silverado hd and gmc sierra hd with class-leading horsepower 360 268 kw at 3200 rpm and class-leading torque at 650 lb.-ft. 881 nm at 1600 rpm. in addition to the power increase in the silverado and sierra all 2006 duramax engines have been significantly revised to deliver lower emissions and significantly improved quietness and smoothness in every application. the 2006 silverado hd and sierra hd with the allison 6-speed automatic transmission will be equipped with a significantly revised 310 horsepower duramax 6600 lly through the third quarter of 2005. it will be replaced in these applications in the fourth quarter of 2005 by the higher output 360-horsepower duramax lbz. othe introduction of the duramax diesel in 2001 represented a significant evolution in north american diesel pick-up truck market and propelled gmts heavy duty diesel pick-up truck market share to over 25 percentage points said charles freese gm powertrain executive director diesel engineering. othe introduction of the improved 2006 duramax turbo diesel once again sets a new benchmark to which all others will be measured. the duramax 6600ts horsepower and torque increase and emissions reduction are enabled by a strengthened iron cylinder block and a lower compression ratio. the lower compression reduces stress on the engine by reducing the peak cylinder firing pressure. this in turn allows more fuel to be burned more fuel means more power while the lower compression helps reduce nox emissions. lower compression also helps reduce noise and vibration making the all variants of the 6600 a quieter and smoother engine. a revised variable-geometry turbocharger also enhances the driving experience of the duramax 6600. aerodynamic changes to the turbots vanes help tailor controlled application of turbo power for seamless and immediate response at full throttle. the turbo which spins at up to 120000 rpm is high-speed-balanced reducing vibration and resonance and contributing to the enginets overall smoothness and refinement. the revised turbo also helps reduce emissions while maximum boost remains at 20 psi. another new feature of the duramax 6600ts turbo system is the capability of the variable-geometry turbocharger to provide exhaust braking. this function is available on some medium-duty truck models and can replace add-on exhaust brake hardware. with the new system braking is controlled by a signal from the engine controller and can be activated by the driver. the comprehensive list of changes and upgrades to the 2006 duramax 6600 includes * cylinder block casting and machining changes strengthen the bottom of the cylinder bores to support increased horsepower and torque * upgraded main bearing material increases durability * revised piston design helps lower compression ratio to 16.81 from 17.51 * piston pin bore diameter increased for increased strength * connecting rod o i section is thicker for increased strength * cylinder heads revised to accommodate lower compression and reduced cylinder firing pressure * maximum injection pressure increased from 23000 psi to more than 26000 psi * fuel delivered via higher-pressure pump fuel rails distribution lines and all-new seven-hole fuel injectors * fuel injectors spray directly onto glow plugs providing faster better-quality starts and more complete cold-start combustion for reduced emissions * improved glow plugs heat up faster through an independent controller * revised variable-geometry turbocharger is aerodynamically more efficient to help deliver smooth and immediate response and lower emis
From : dave lee
rm@blah.blah writes if it does i will! there are only 2 dealerships i trust here in houston and neither is dodge unfortunately. i never doubted they had the knowledge i just cant stand the markup they charge for simple services and their refusal to give an honest answer even if its i dont know. ive had good results at archer dodge on the sw fwy. theyre not exactly on my beaten trail but the two times ive had my truck in to them they took care of the problem w/minimal hassle. i also bought it from them. .
From : jim schultz
im in nw washington about 85 miles nw of seattle. can anyone recommend a good rebuilder for the tranny in a 96 ram 1500 with 5.9 magnum tia rick im in south everett. i recommend pat blais 206-365-1966. hes been rebuilding torqueflites exclusively for 30+ years out of his home in monroe. if pat cant help you im sure he can recommend someone up your way. bryan .
From : max dodge
nah just an idiot come back for more facts instead of corporate rhetoric. -- max give a man a match and he is warm for a short while. light him on fire and he is warm for the rest of his life. as usual max was wrong!!!! the duramax diesel is still going strong after several years of proven reliability. hey max!! looks like ya have a new best friend.bfg roy .
From : yofuri
yup after several years of blown head gaskets they lowered the compression ratio. and ooowheee its got glow plugs its still a v8 where an inline six is better. -- max give a man a match and he is warm for a short while. light him on fire and he is warm for the rest of his life. as usual max was wrong!!!! the duramax diesel is still going strong after several years of proven reliability. 2006 duramax 6600 turbodiesel to deliver class-leading torque in a more powerful and refined package engine output for chevy silverado hd and gmc sierra hd increased to 360 horsepower and a class-leading 650 lb-ft of torque new glow-plugs reduce start time by as much as 50 percent pontiac mich. later this year gm powertrain will introduce a new 6.6l duramax 6600 turbodiesel v-8 rpo lbz for the 2006 model year chevy silverado hd and gmc sierra hd with class-leading horsepower 360 268 kw at 3200 rpm and class-leading torque at 650 lb.-ft. 881 nm at 1600 rpm. in addition to the power increase in the silverado and sierra all 2006 duramax engines have been significantly revised to deliver lower emissions and significantly improved quietness and smoothness in every application. the 2006 silverado hd and sierra hd with the allison 6-speed automatic transmission will be equipped with a significantly revised 310 horsepower duramax 6600 lly through the third quarter of 2005. it will be replaced in these applications in the fourth quarter of 2005 by the higher output 360-horsepower duramax lbz. othe introduction of the duramax diesel in 2001 represented a significant evolution in north american diesel pick-up truck market and propelled gmts heavy duty diesel pick-up truck market share to over 25 percentage points said charles freese gm powertrain executive director diesel engineering. othe introduction of the improved 2006 duramax turbo diesel once again sets a new benchmark to which all others will be measured. the duramax 6600ts horsepower and torque increase and emissions reduction are enabled by a strengthened iron cylinder block and a lower compression ratio. the lower compression reduces stress on the engine by reducing the peak cylinder firing pressure. this in turn allows more fuel to be burned more fuel means more power while the lower compression helps reduce nox emissions. lower compression also helps reduce noise and vibration making the all variants of the 6600 a quieter and smoother engine. a revised variable-geometry turbocharger also enhances the driving experience of the duramax 6600. aerodynamic changes to the turbots vanes help tailor controlled application of turbo power for seamless and immediate response at full throttle. the turbo which spins at up to 120000 rpm is high-speed-balanced reducing vibration and resonance and contributing to the enginets overall smoothness and refinement. the revised turbo also helps reduce emissions while maximum boost remains at 20 psi. another new feature of the duramax 6600ts turbo system is the capability of the variable-geometry turbocharger to provide exhaust braking. this function is available on some medium-duty truck models and can replace add-on exhaust brake hardware. with the new system braking is controlled by a signal from the engine controller and can be activated by the driver. the comprehensive list of changes and upgrades to the 2006 duramax 6600 includes * cylinder block casting and machining changes strengthen the bottom of the cylinder bores to support increased horsepower and torque * upgraded main bearing material increases durability * revised piston design helps lower compression ratio to 16.81 from 17.51 * piston pin bore diameter increased for increased strength * connecting rod o i section is thicker for increased strength * cylinder heads revised to accommodate lower compression and reduced cylinder firing pressure * maximum injection pressure increased from 23000 psi to more than 26000 psi * fuel delivered via higher-pressure pump fuel rails distribution lines and all-new seven-hole fuel inject
From : nosey
when you have a tranny rebuild by one of the well known rebuilders they install a converter that has a drain plug. you mean you can pay someone to do all that work for you dang... i coulda saved a few busted knuckles .
From : termite
also i forgot. the drill and tap size is dependant on the probe size. i used isspro gauges and the probe was 1/4 .
From : Annonymous
the little magnet works fine. i just did it on my 2005 2500. its important to use plenty of grease on the drill bit and also the tap. go slow taking small bites at a time. mine is mounted pre turbo in the down tube going to the turbo. after mounting the probe use some anti-seize on it i started up the engine and let it idle for a couple of minutes. working great. .
From : tom lawrence
* fuel injectors spray directly onto glow plugs providing faster better-quality starts and more complete cold-start combustion for reduced emissions * improved glow plugs heat up faster through an independent controller * revised variable-geometry turbocharger is aerodynamically more efficient to help deliver smooth and immediate response and lower emissions * air induction system re-tuned to enhance quietness * egr has larger cooler to bring more exhaust into the system * first application of new 32-bit e35 controller which adjusts and compensates for the fuel flow to bolster efficiency and reduce emissions the duramax 6600 also has a new intake air heater to reduce smoke and emissions during cold or light-load driving. the system features a 1000-watt grid heater located in the air intake duct which is triggered automatically by the engine controller. it heats up the incoming air to speed warm-up of the engine. in addition to 50 more horsepower and 45 more lb-ft of torque in the silverado and sierra changes to the 2006 duramax 6600 build on a host of improvements introduced for t05 improvements that bolstered an already strong foundation. the duramax 6600 features a rigid cast iron cylinder block with induction-hardened cylinder bores; four-bolt cross-drilled main bearing caps; forged steel nitride-hardened crankshaft; aluminum pistons with jet-spray oil cooling; aluminum cylinder heads with four valves per cylinder; integrated oil cooler and a charge-cooled turbocharging system. features such as easy-access fuel filter and timing gears reduce maintenance time and effort. a new 32-bit e35 engine controller monitors and adjusts the enginets operation. designed exclusively for the duramax diesel engine the controller helps the injectors precisely meter fuel to the cylinders and can compensate for the variability of the injectors and fuel flow. this sophisticated more powerful controller also can support up to five injections per cylinder and eliminates the need for an engine-mounted drive unit to fire the fuel injectors. the new duramax 6600 in the silverado and sierra heavy-duty pick-ups will be available exclusively with the new allison 1000 6-speed automatic transmission featuring class-first features like tap-shift range selection mode. in addition to the chevy silverado hd and gmc sierra hd the duramax 6600 lly is also available at varying power outputs in the hummer h1 alpha chevy kodiak and gmc topkick. for 2006 the duramax is available for the first time in gmts full-size vans chevy express and gmc savana providing power and capabilities matched with quietness and smoothness not found in competitorst diesel-equipped vans. the duramax 6600 was introduced in 2001 and was developed in a partnership with gm powertrain and isuzu motors. since its introduction more than 650000 6.6l duramax diesels have been built and sold. the duramax 6600 is assembled at the dmax facility in moraine ohio a joint venture between general motors and isuzu created specifically to produce diesel engines. .
From : snoman
ron wrote new question how long is the meant time before failure of your typical auto ac system and what is the normal failure i have 4 vehicles with ac systems that have a combined mileage of around 750000 miles. i have replaced three compressors. one was an old york piston unit on a 1969 auto that broke a rod at about 200000 miles. the other two where new style compessors and both were replaced because of seal leaks. the fourth unit is an original york piston unit that is still working great and is 36 years old. i seem to have more problem with seals going bad than compressor blowing apart so i would have to say seal failure is the big failure mode. how off normal am i i also never buy spark plugs and find very few bad spark plug wires. i laughed the other day when i was in an autozone store and saw a complete wall full of spark plug wires and all i could think about was all the good wires that were being thrown away. it depends on the usage of the unit and the climate you live in too. if you live in teaxs and use it a lot it will not last as long but i have gotten 200k out of a few compressors and my 89 burb had its compressor replaced at 45k under extended warranty because of quality problems with compressors that year but its replacement is still doing fine 130k miles later. -- posted using the http//www.autoforumz.com interface at authors request articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards topic url http//www.autoforumz.com/dodge-default-ftopict133426.html visit topic url to contact author reg. reqd. report abuse http//www.autoforumz.com/eform.phpp=672074 .
From : miles
my 96 dakota club cab slt v8 4wd shifter has been nearly imposible to shift. i spray with crc teflon penitrating spray and it takes 2 hands to pull it back to 4wd and my foot to push it into 2wd. is this symptomatic of this model truck or is there something that can be done so my wife can shift it without the neighbors help. thanks jpat .
From : jerry
tom lawrence wrote wondered if the synthetic stuff would increase the life of the transmission. id heard that it doesnt heat up as fast as the regular oil. it heats up just as quickly... the difference is it doesnt break down as much in the presence of that heat as a dino oil would. that said the whole idea is to keep the heat out of the transmission in the first place. change the fluid/filter on a regular basis as per the maintenance schedule for hd or severe service using mopar 7176 fluid or compatible - atf+3 is widely available. do not use dexron of any type - keep the fins on the transmission cooler free of debris - and above all lock out overdrive when pulling hills and the transmission is hunting between 3rd and 4th. you should consider installing a transmission temperature gauge so you know exactly whats happening to your fluid and can either back off the throttle or manually downshift in order to mitigate the heat. good advise tom! syn fluid can take more temp but the tranny seals cannot so best thing to do is to keep it cooled and the fluid and filter fresh. -- posted using the http//www.autoforumz.com interface at authors request articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards topic url http//www.autoforumz.com/dodge-synthetic-oil-ftopict138601.html visit topic url to contact author reg. reqd. report abuse http//www.autoforumz.com/eform.phpp=671536 .
From : jim schultz
its normal for your temp gauge to read higher after you shut down... your fan blade has stopped & coolant is no longer circulating .any residual heat trapped in the block is being soaked out. you can try raising idle up a little for a minute then shut down and see if that helps. i was running a brand new john deere excavator last week and i needed to stop for fuel. i idled for a 1-2 minutes to cool the turbo then shut down. after i finished the fill-upi restarted it and the temp warning light was flashing and the temp gauge was pegged. it only took 30 seconds for the temp to drop right back to mid range after hitting the key. the temp. gauge runs where it should while driving then slowly rises after i kill the engine. can let the pressure off the radiator and the gauge goes down. have changed the radiator all hoses by-passed heater core new rad. cap and new thermostat. hasnt helped. please help!!!!!! thanks .
From : fred
well found out dad was slack and never had the tranny serviced.sounds like i should drop the pan and have it flushed outthen refilled with atf+4. hes 78 years old so ill cut him a break. own a 99 quad ctd 2wd with around 75k and do a fair amount of towing 8k 5er. try to change mine every 15k as suggested by the shop manual for heavy use. have had both atf3 and atf4 put in by dc service techs at different dealerships in different parts of the country. obviously two trains of thought going on here. what is the difference between the two types...is one synthetic . also...thanks for the tips tom. fred jim schultz wrote i bought the truck used from my dad who had it since new.all of the reccomended service mileage points in the manual are filled out so i think he had it done several times.a phone call could confirm that. when you change yours and dont drop the pando you use the flush type systemguess thats the only way yes ive had it flushed by the dealership with atf+4. i have a 2001 ram 5.9l. i also changed the pan to an aftermarket slight deeper one with a drain plug and temp sensor hole. if i tow long distance on a hot day ill quickly drain the pan and at least get 5 quarts or so replaced. easy to do with the drain plug. .
From : roy
i have a 2001 durango and the ignition cylinder is jammed and no amount of wheel jiggling and key wiggling will get it to turn. so does anybody have any info on causes and solutions. im pretty sure im gonna have to change it at this point so if you know of any special tools or tips id appreciate it. .
From : max dodge
what kind of sick twisted person would steal a 1994 caravan with a faded out paint job..dents in both sides and mildewy smelling carpet..it was locked so they went thru extra trouble..is there that big a market for parts from this thing or is it just an easy vehicle to steal..im trying to comprehend why of all the cars on my crowded street they took this piece of junk...if none of that makes sense should i look in the direction of the guy who sold it to me 4 months ago..he may have still had a key and he knows where i live .
From : coasty
actually using just the cab heater fan and cycling coolant through the heater core helps quite a bit...tough to do that when its 80+ degrees outside and its raining and you have all the windows down trying to get the heat out of the cab. fred a question it for this application because for a electric fan to develop enough power to move enough air it takes a lot of current to the horton product being discussed is/was an electric clutch not an electric fan. .
From : coasty
thanks tom. alright id like to know a few thoughts on witch egt gauge to get mounting solutions and where/how to put the sensor on a 05 cummins. for a single gauge the mopar srt-10 a-pillar is a good choice. available from genos garage http//www.genosgarage.com it will replace the stock a-pillar trim with one that has a molded-in gauge holder this is used from the factory on srt-10 rams to hold an oil temp. gauge. it retains your grab handle so theres no downside to using it. to match your trucks gauges either a dipricol although some myself included dont like the big white center cap or an isspro ev-series are the closest match to the factory gauges. i personally run an autometer phantom but thats because i went with a full compliment of autometer gauges. as for mounting the thermocouple you want it in the exhaust manifold where it will do the most good. drill/tap a hole right above the turbo mounting flange in the rear-most of the two passages. this will measure the egts from the rear cylinders which run a little hotter than the rest. start with a cooled-off engine and duct-tape off the exhaust tip then poke a small hole through the duct tape. you want to create some backpressure. next start the engine and while wearing gloves and goggles or a faceshield drill a 21/64 or 11/32 or even 5/16 will work - but 21/64 is the closest to the correct size into the manifold. all the chips will be blown back out at you so watch yourself but better at you than into your turbo. now you can shut the truck off remove the duct tape and let it cool a bit. get a 1/8-27 npt pipe tap and load up the flutes with grease. now carefully tap the hole you drilled. youll probably want to go 5-6 full turns on the tap to get the thread depth correct. turn the tap until it gets a bite of the metal and you feel good resistance to turning it. then back it off 1/4-turn and go forward again. that will break the chip off and embed it in the grease. you want to tap deep enough so that the probe threads in 3 full turns. once thats done just put the probe in and hook up its wiring to the gauge. do not cut the probe wires to length - coil up the excess underneath the dash. for lighting you can tap the larger-of-the-two orange/black wires from the headlamp switch this is the dimmer circuit. for a switched +12v you can tap the red wire from the cigarette lighter. for ground you can use the grounding screw on the lower dash frame behind the knee blocker panel. .
From : coasty
drain plug in a troque converter any chysler techs out there to confirm this it smells like a big bull stinky. i have been wrong before. -- coasty remove the spooge to reply i change my own every 20k at a cost of about $26. you dont change all of your atf+4 for $26 unless you get one heck of a good deal on it. actually pretty close as i have a drain plug on my torque converter always tighten these securely... a lesson i learned the hard way one time. and i never said i used +4... no need to piss away $$$ when changing every 20k. .
From : tom lawrence
drain plug in a troque converter any chysler techs out there to confirm this it smells like a big bull stinky. i have been wrong before. -- coasty remove the spooge to reply i change my own every 20k at a cost of about $26. you dont change all of your atf+4 for $26 unless you get one heck of a good deal on it. actually pretty close as i have a drain plug on my torque converter always tighten these securely... a lesson i learned the hard way one time. and i never said i used +4... no need to piss away $$$ when changing every 20k. .
From : tom lawrence
own a 99 quad ctd 2wd with around 75k and do a fair amount of towing 8k 5er. try to change mine every 15k as suggested by the shop manual for heavy use. have had both atf3 and atf4 put in by dc service techs at different dealerships in different parts of the country. obviously two trains of thought going on here. what is the difference between the two types...is one synthetic . also...thanks for the tips tom. fred jim schultz wrote i bought the truck used from my dad who had it since new.all of the reccomended service mileage points in the manual are filled out so i think he had it done several times.a phone call could confirm that. when you change yours and dont drop the pando you use the flush type systemguess thats the only way yes ive had it flushed by the dealership with atf+4. i have a 2001 ram 5.9l. i also changed the pan to an aftermarket slight deeper one with a drain plug and temp sensor hole. if i tow long distance on a hot day ill quickly drain the pan and at least get 5 quarts or so replaced. easy to do with the drain plug. .
From : coasty
this is the internet a group not gosss garage if pat had said it would have been gospel. no intention in hurting your feelings or insulting your integrity. you should not take it so personal after all would you trust everything someone says especially when they are invisible heh heh... nah no feeling hurt over here... not in the least. but - consider this i stated that i change my own tranny fluid and that i do get most all the fluid out because i have a drain plug on my tc. now - theres only two choices here... either its the truth or im purposely lieing. it would be different if i had said something like the 3-4 upshift is controlled by hydraulic pressure in the valve body... there is the possibility in that instance that im not lieing i just dont know what im talking about something that occurs with some frequency here in this ng and sometimes its not even me if you had said my truck is blue and i replied bullshit - got proof you might look at that a bit cross-eyed too. like i said in the end no harm done here. you now see that i do indeed have a drain plug and weve also established that you pay a heck of a lot more than i do for a transmission fluid change .
From : tom lawrence
this is the internet a group not gosss garage if pat had said it would have been gospel. no intention in hurting your feelings or insulting your integrity. you should not take it so personal after all would you trust everything someone says especially when they are invisible sadly given some of the idiots that post here he does have a point. having said the above one might be better served to hang out here for a bit before they lable a persons answer as bs. roy .
From : coasty
this is the internet a group not gosss garage if pat had said it would have been gospel. no intention in hurting your feelings or insulting your integrity. you should not take it so personal after all would you trust everything someone says especially when they are invisible -- coasty remove the spooge to reply when in doubt ask comes to mind. by all means ask... insinuating im trying to feed you a line of bullshit to me goes beyond simply asking. .
From : tom lawrence
thanks that is why i asked the question a good idea and why not put drain plugs on the tranny pans like toyota it makes sence. -- coasty remove the spooge to reply drain plug in a troque converter any chysler techs out there to confirm this it smells like a big bull stinky. i have been wrong before. and you are wrong this time. mopar was for years been the only one to put drain plugs in the tc. -- max give a man a match and he is warm for a short while. light him on fire and he is warm for the rest of his life. drain plug in a troque converter any chysler techs out there to confirm this it smells like a big bull stinky. i have been wrong before. -- coasty remove the spooge to reply i change my own every 20k at a cost of about $26. you dont change all of your atf+4 for $26 unless you get one heck of a good deal on it. actually pretty close as i have a drain plug on my torque converter always tighten these securely... a lesson i learned the hard way one time. and i never said i used +4... no need to piss away $$$ when changing every 20k. .
From : tom lawrence
a question it for this application because for a electric fan to develop enough power to move enough air it takes a lot of current to the horton product being discussed is/was an electric clutch not an electric fan. .
From : miles
were they or is this another product that chrysler is making you buy. personally you can do what you want it is your vehicle and i have found it prudent to follow manufacturers instructions. there is a reason for manufacturer instructions but some people just fail to understand or want to understand. -- coasty remove the spooge to reply they better use atf+4 as per the tsb it replaces atf+3. i want to know what happened to all these old transmissions where atf+3 used to be fine but now is no good and must be replaced with +4. do not let a shop talk you into any thing different. i had mine done at the $tealer for $99.00 total. i change my own every 20k at a cost of about $26. .
From : jim schultz
jim schultz wrote i bought the truck used from my dad who had it since new.all of the reccomended service mileage points in the manual are filled out so i think he had it done several times.a phone call could confirm that. when you change yours and dont drop the pando you use the flush type systemguess thats the only way yes ive had it flushed by the dealership with atf+4. i have a 2001 ram 5.9l. i also changed the pan to an aftermarket slight deeper one with a drain plug and temp sensor hole. if i tow long distance on a hot day ill quickly drain the pan and at least get 5 quarts or so replaced. easy to do with the drain plug. .
From : coasty
im not quite sure how it happened but a ruger super redhawk followed me home tonight. now if i just come up with a good explanation for the wife...... tell her it was either that or a new truck. it is a guy thing. mine told me i couldnt have any more guns either. so i went out and bought a 05 cummins 2500. im bettin she lets me get the gun next time ; ive been looking at the bushmaster line for somthing a bit heavier. a couple of guys i work with have bought a couple of different models and have been real happy with them. www.bushmaster.com roy denny .
From : miles
i bought the truck used from my dad who had it since new.all of the reccomended service mileage points in the manual are filled out so i think he had it done several times.a phone call could confirm that. when you change yours and dont drop the pando you use the flush type systemguess thats the only way when was the last time fluid was changed i hope by 60k youd had it done at least once. i change mine every 15k because i tow and live in the desert. if your manual states atf+4 then do not use atf+3 with a modifier. no need to drop the pan and change the filter every time if fluid is changed frequently. i have the pan dropped every other time 30k. jim schultz wrote hello... couple questions for the transmission gurus around here. first off my truck is a 2000 ram ctd quadcab shortbed 3.55 gears all stock 61000 miles. i plan on doing the 60k service which includes transmission fluid filter and adjust bands. the transmission seems fine...upshifts and downshifts great and no shudder or slippage. after talking to a couple shops seems like i have 2-3 alternatives to attack the transmission. 1 drop pan and change filter reinstall and add fluid.could also have shop lower valve body to get even more fluid out. 2 leave pan installed and use a flush machine to circulate new +4 oil into the tranny. 3a local shop suggested using their flush machine to circulateclean and refill using atf+3 and a friction modifier lubeguard 63010 the shop owner has a ram and said thats all hes ever done to his truck and its fine.he even went as far as to say lubeguard gaurantees my transmission after the product is installed. my choice so far is number 2....seems like using brand new oil throughout the tranny would be besteven though there is a downside of not changing the screen. my concern with this approach also is the flush machine connections at the cooler. is there any chance of damage to connections or possibly loosening something that could cause engine coolant to contaminate transmission oil next question...do my bands need attention even if it seems to shift fine sorry for the long post and alsothanks in advance for taking time for me. .