rear end whine on '98 Ram 1500

From : rscotto

Q: i have a 98 ram qc 1500 92k miles 2wd auto 5.9 v-8 w/ 3.55 sure grip axle. the differential has developed a high pitched whine that increases in pitch with speed simultaneously the abs and brake lights have illuminted and the speedo does not register any speeds below 20 mph. i am pretty certain the abs/speedo sending unit in the axle housing is bad....any ideas what might have died in the differential any why there is a fine metallic sludge in the bottom of the housing and some small metal chips/shavings/etc. i plan to replace the ring and pinion with a set of richmond 3.55s and ther complete overhaul bearing and shim kit. i have the tool to adjust the carrier bearing preload on the way and have been able to get dial indicators torque wrenches and pinion depth tools from friends. anybody had there differential buy the farm what was the cause i was pulling an 1800# trailer when the whining started....any suggestions or tips thanks- rich .

Replies:

From : christopher thompson

i get 21 if i can keep my foot off the trottle...... 19 most of the time with my normal driving to and from work/around town. automatic 50 inch tires 4x4 4.11 rear end get your head out of the clouds and back to reality... thats a perfectly normal mpg rate for his truck. the 3rd gens especially the 04.5s and up get worse fuel mileage than a 2nd gen... the engines make more power burn more fuel the gear ratios are higher 3.54 used to be standard - now its a 3.73 and the aerodynamics arent as good as the 2nd gens. im also in the 18-19mpg range closer to 18 with normal driving. like chris i can push it up into the low 20s with judicious use of the right pedal - but thats just not an fun. lol i have to agree tom. its much more fun to embarass the young hot shot in a little sports car next to me with the percieved oversized & slow truck the lwb quad with 8 of box is just about as oversized as it gets *really big grin* and besides the right pedal is really a on/off switch right *grin* -- -chris 05 ctd 06 liberty crd .

From : snoman

on wed 24 may 2006 205931 -0400 rscotto rscotto@bellsouth.net wrote i have a 98 ram qc 1500 92k miles 2wd auto 5.9 v-8 w/ 3.55 sure grip axle. the differential has developed a high pitched whine that increases in pitch with speed simultaneously the abs and brake lights have illuminted and the speedo does not register any speeds below 20 mph. i am pretty certain the abs/speedo sending unit in the axle housing is bad....any ideas what might have died in the differential any why there is a fine metallic sludge in the bottom of the housing and some small metal chips/shavings/etc. i plan to replace the ring and pinion with a set of richmond 3.55s and ther complete overhaul bearing and shim kit. i have the tool to adjust the carrier bearing preload on the way and have been able to get dial indicators torque wrenches and pinion depth tools from friends. anybody had there differential buy the farm what was the cause i was pulling an 1800# trailer when the whining started....any suggestions or tips thanks- rich the biggest reason for this is neglect. poeple tend to forget about rear axle and never change the fluid in them and this can cause premature failure. that rear axle is not that weak and if you had serviced it regulalry it would have likely never failed. axle can have hard lif

From : tbone

it is a fairly common problem with this rear. they used lower cost pinion bearings in this rear and this happens more than most would like. the rest of the truck is built fairly well but another place to keep an eye on is the hard live going to the rear brakes up front where it crosses over the frame. it tends to rot out there. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving i have a 98 ram qc 1500 92k miles 2wd auto 5.9 v-8 w/ 3.55 sure grip axle. the differential has developed a high pitched whine that increases in pitch with speed simultaneously the abs and brake lights have illuminted and the speedo does not register any speeds below 20 mph. i am pretty certain the abs/speedo sending unit in the axle housing is bad....any ideas what might have died in the differential any why there is a fine metallic sludge in the bottom of the housing and some small metal chips/shavings/etc. i plan to replace the ring and pinion with a set of richmond 3.55s and ther complete overhaul bearing and shim kit. i have the tool to adjust the carrier bearing preload on the way and have been able to get dial indicators torque wrenches and pinion depth tools from friends. anybody had there differential buy the farm what was the cause i was pulling an 1800# trailer when the whining started....any suggestions or tips thanks- rich .

From : geekboy

suggest that you go with at least 3.73 as the 3.55 will not save you any gas with od. also change axle lube about 1000 miles after installation break in period and about every 20 to 30k after that. some use syn fluid but it still get dirty and there is no filter back there. one final comment i would call a richmond gear a cheap gearset and it would not be my first choice to use. i would suggest a yukon or precision gear gearset. ----------------- the snoman www.thesnoman.com . 222 318335 447520bc$0$23695$a82e2bb9@reader.athena.com on wed 24 may 2006 205931 -0400 rscotto rscotto@bellsouth.net wrote i have a 98 ram qc 1500 92k miles 2wd auto 5.9 v-8 w/ 3.55 sure grip axle. the differential has developed a high pitched whine that increases in pitch with speed simultaneously the abs and brake lights have illuminted and the speedo does not register any speeds below 20 mph. i am pretty certain the abs/speedo sending unit in the axle housing is bad....any ideas what might have died in the differential any why there is a fine metallic sludge in the bottom of the housing and some small metal chips/shavings/etc. i plan to replace the ring and pinion with a set of richmond 3.55s and ther complete overhaul bearing and shim kit. i have the tool to adjust the carrier bearing preload on the way and have been able to get dial indicators torque wrenches and pinion depth tools from friends. anybody had there differential buy the farm what was the cause i was pulling an 1800# trailer when the whining started....any suggestions or tips thanks- rich the biggest reason for this is neglect. poeple tend to forget about rear axle and never change the fluid in them and this can cause premature failure. that rear axle is not that weak and if you had serviced it regulalry it would have likely never failed. axle can have hard life but they can handle if properly serviced for usage. i would suggest that you go with at least 3.73 as the 3.55 will not save you that is not what i heard. someone told me he got 25 mpg with stop rear gears then switched to 3.73 for towing and it dropped to 21 mpg any gas with od. also change axle lube about 1000 miles after installation break in period and about every 20 to 30k after that. some use syn fluid but it still get dirty and there is no filter back there. one final comment i would call a richmond gear a cheap gearset and it would not be my first choice to use. i would suggest a yukon or precision gear gearset. ----------------- the snoman www.thesnoman.com .

From : geekboy

on wed 24 may 2006 205931 -0400 rscotto rscotto@bellsouth.net wrote i have a 98 ram qc 1500 92k miles 2wd auto 5.9 v-8 w/ 3.55 sure grip axle. the differential has developed a high pitched whine that increases in pitch with speed simultaneously the abs and brake lights have illuminted and the speedo does not register any speeds below 20 mph. i am pretty certain the abs/speedo sending unit in the axle housing is bad....any ideas what might have died in the differential any why there is a fine metallic sludge in the bottom of the housing and some small metal chips/shavings/etc. i plan to replace the ring and pinion with a set of richmond 3.55s and ther complete overhaul bearing and shim kit. i have the tool to adjust the carrier bearing preload on the way and have been able to get dial indicators torque wrenches and pinion depth tools from friends. anybody had there differential buy the farm what was the cause i was pulling an 1800# trailer when the whining started....any suggestions or tips thanks- rich the biggest reason for this is neglect. poeple tend to forget about rear axle and never change the fluid in them and this can cause premature failure. that rear axle is not that weak and if you had serviced it regulalry it would have likely never failed. axle can have hard life but they can handle if properly serviced for usage. i would suggest that you go with at least 3.73 as the 3.55 will not save you that is not what i heard. someone told me he got 25 mpg with stop rear gears then switched to 3.73 for towing and it dropped to 21 mpg opps..typo.. stock not stop any gas with od. also change axle lube about 1000 miles after installation break in period and about every 20 to 30k after that. some use syn fluid but it still get dirty and there is no filter back there. one final comment i would call a richmond gear a cheap gearset and it would not be my first choice to use. i would suggest a yukon or precision gear gearset. ----------------- the snoman www.thesnoman.com .

From : js

geekboy wrote geekboy wrote on wed 24 may 2006 205931 -0400 rscotto rscotto@bellsouth.net wrote i have a 98 ram qc 1500 92k miles 2wd auto 5.9 v-8 w/ 3.55 sure grip axle. the differential has developed a high pitched whine that increases in pitch with speed simultaneously the abs and brake lights have illuminted and the speedo does not register any speeds below 20 mph. i am pretty certain the abs/speedo sending unit in the axle housing is bad....any ideas what might have died in the differential any why there is a fine metallic sludge in the bottom of the housing and some small metal chips/shavings/etc. i plan to replace the ring and pinion with a set of richmond 3.55s and ther complete overhaul bearing and shim kit. i have the tool to adjust the carrier bearing preload on the way and have been able to get dial indicators torque wrenches and pinion depth tools from friends. anybody had there differential buy the farm what was the cause i was pulling an 1800# trailer when the whining started....any suggestions or tips thanks- rich the biggest reason for this is neglect. poeple tend to forget about rear axle and never change the fluid in them and this can cause premature failure. that rear axle is not that weak and if you had serviced it regulalry it would have likely never failed. axle can have hard life but they can handle if properly serviced for usage. i would suggest that you go with at least 3.73 as the 3.55 will not save you that is not what i heard. someone told me he got 25 mpg with stop rear gears then switched to 3.73 for towing and it dropped to 21 mpg ok i gotta break my silence on this one. a halfton dodge of any sort getting 25 mpg is yours magical i rented a truck like yours it got about 13. my 318/5 spd/3.21 gets about 12 mpg and its at a very tired 130k miles... hell i know folks that would be trading in their out-of-tune chevy cavaliers for a 25 mpg dodge fullsize! did not say it was half ton then the relevance is kinda nil. a 1999 3.9l auto 3.55 2wd dak extended cab will shit-n-get. a 1999 3.9 auto 3.55 2wd 1500 rc this engine was not an option in the extended/quad cab is completely gutless. theyre fairly work-able with 4.10s tho. reason dakotas are much lighter and have a significantly smaller aerodynamic profile. it takes a lot less power to push them down the road. also most of the driveline is lighter weight which greatly improves overall performance that 6 ft long 2 piece cast iron drive shaft in my 318 half ton weighs a lot as do the 16x7 steel wheels and the big 265/75r15 all terrains... hmm.. no wonder it runs like a slug ; also do realize your transmission actually gets beat on less with higher differential ratios. a reduced need to down shift and reduced cruising torque requirements can greatly extend transmission lifetime. js .

From : christopher thompson

also on a side note i have to say i was really impressed with the new cummins on my last trip to ky this was the first road trip for the new truck. i sold my father in law my 99 durango and hauled it up on the equipment trailer. we pulled the 8% grade on the tn-111 at 60 with no problems. infact we like to have run a f350 over. and we got nearly 15 mpg on that trip. running the truck hard 75 most of the way on the interstate i have to say it again getting rid of the 8l and buying this one when we did was the best move we could have made. -- -chris 05 ctd 06 liberty crd i get 21 if i can keep my foot off the trottle...... 19 most of the time with my normal driving to and from work/around town. automatic 50 inch tires 4x4 4.11 rear end get your head out of the clouds and back to reality... thats a perfectly normal mpg rate for his truck. the 3rd gens especially the 04.5s and up get worse fuel mileage than a 2nd gen... the engines make more power burn more fuel the gear ratios are higher 3.54 used to be standard - now its a 3.73 and the aerodynamics arent as good as the 2nd gens. im also in the 18-19mpg range closer to 18 with normal driving. like chris i can push it up into the low 20s with judicious use of the right pedal - but thats just not an fun. .

From : denny

summer last winter it was 75 cent or more than gas too and when you factor in cost of engine manitainance and fuel you are loosing not saving money. and how many times do i have to do the math and prove you wrong even at $3.00/gal for gasoline and $3.75/gal for diesel youre looking at 18-20mpg vs 11-13mpg. take the extremes - 13mpg at $3.00/gal vs. 18mpg at $3.75/gal. thats $0.231/mile for gas and $0.208/mile for diesel. lets say it was an extra $5000 for the diesel option. at that rate its a little over 200000 miles to break even... admittedly not that good yet far from a loss. however when diesel prices are a little better for example im paying $2.99/gal right now while my gasoline-burning friends are paying between $2.89 and $3.21 or $0.166/mile. at that rate the cost of the engine is paid for in about 75000 miles - less if you factor in the higher gasoline prices $3.12 for 89 octane at the place that sells diesel for $2.99 here by me. the break-even time for a diesel gets even lower when you look at real-world performance. to get 13mpg from a gas-powered 1-ton truck youve got to really baby it. that same babying would get you 20-21mpg on the diesel engine. the mpg results drop more for a gas-powered pickup when towing a heavy load than they do for the diesel - again enhancing the cost benefit of the diesel engine. on resale a diesel-powered truck will get between $2500 and $3500 more than a comparable gas truck. so you need to factor that into your initial costs the fact that youll make it up on resale. using a figure of $3000 in resale now youve only got to make up $2000 in up-front costs... so 87000 miles using your prices or 30000 miles using my prices. as for the myth about higher maintenance costs... the diesel uses twice as much oil 12qts. vs. 6qts but the drain intervals are twice as long... thats a wash. air filters are a wash. theres a fuel filter that needs changing every 15000 miles or so - at a cost of $12. on the other side the gas engine needs plugs every 30k $30 cap/rotor/wires every 50k $80. the way i see it maintenance of a gas engine is the more expensive of the two. you want to talk about common repairs changing a water pump on a cummins takes about 30 minutes - the same job takes almost three times as long on a gas engine. book time on changing a timing chain... 4 hours maybe 0 on the diesel... everythings gear-driven. how many people with v8s on here have had to have an intake plenum gasket replaced again not an issue on the little i-6. change out a stuck/frozen lifter on a gas engine a few hours worth of work... not needed on a diesel solid lifters and flat tappets. granted you do need to adjust the valve lash every 100k or so... takes about 30 minutes. aside from the financial facts theres the drivability factor. owning both a cummins and a v10-powered 3500 and hauling with both of them theres no way i would ever choose to pull a load with the v10 over the cummins. in fact theres very little i use my v10 for at all these days. the v10 is a little quicker off the line but the cummins eats it for lunch on a rolling acceleration. my 45-80mph times for example in my v10 are twice that of my cummins. hey - i get it... diesels arent your thing. thats fine - but dont take your personal bias and try to apply it to the real-world benefits of burning oil rather than gasoline. your argument simply falls apart under even a bit of scrutiny. ummm tom you forgot to put the smell factor in there somewhere... g denny .

From : js

geekboy wrote on wed 24 may 2006 205931 -0400 rscotto rscotto@bellsouth.net wrote i have a 98 ram qc 1500 92k miles 2wd auto 5.9 v-8 w/ 3.55 sure grip axle. the differential has developed a high pitched whine that increases in pitch with speed simultaneously the abs and brake lights have illuminted and the speedo does not register any speeds below 20 mph. i am pretty certain the abs/speedo sending unit in the axle housing is bad....any ideas what might have died in the differential any why there is a fine metallic sludge in the bottom of the housing and some small metal chips/shavings/etc. i plan to replace the ring and pinion with a set of richmond 3.55s and ther complete overhaul bearing and shim kit. i have the tool to adjust the carrier bearing preload on the way and have been able to get dial indicators torque wrenches and pinion depth tools from friends. anybody had there differential buy the farm what was the cause i was pulling an 1800# trailer when the whining started....any suggestions or tips thanks- rich the biggest reason for this is neglect. poeple tend to forget about rear axle and never change the fluid in them and this can cause premature failure. that rear axle is not that weak and if you had serviced it regulalry it would have likely never failed. axle can have hard life but they can handle if properly serviced for usage. i would suggest that you go with at least 3.73 as the 3.55 will not save you that is not what i heard. someone told me he got 25 mpg with stop rear gears then switched to 3.73 for towing and it dropped to 21 mpg ok i gotta break my silence on this one. a halfton dodge of any sort getting 25 mpg is yours magical i rented a truck like yours it got about 13. my 318/5 spd/3.21 gets about 12 mpg and its at a very tired 130k miles... hell i know folks that would be trading in their out-of-tune chevy cavaliers for a 25 mpg dodge fullsize! js .

From : geekboy

geekboy wrote on wed 24 may 2006 205931 -0400 rscotto rscotto@bellsouth.net wrote i have a 98 ram qc 1500 92k miles 2wd auto 5.9 v-8 w/ 3.55 sure grip axle. the differential has developed a high pitched whine that increases in pitch with speed simultaneously the abs and brake lights have illuminted and the speedo does not register any speeds below 20 mph. i am pretty certain the abs/speedo sending unit in the axle housing is bad....any ideas what might have died in the differential any why there is a fine metallic sludge in the bottom of the housing and some small metal chips/shavings/etc. i plan to replace the ring and pinion with a set of richmond 3.55s and ther complete overhaul bearing and shim kit. i have the tool to adjust the carrier bearing preload on the way and have been able to get dial indicators torque wrenches and pinion depth tools from friends. anybody had there differential buy the farm what was the cause i was pulling an 1800# trailer when the whining started....any suggestions or tips thanks- rich the biggest reason for this is neglect. poeple tend to forget about rear axle and never change the fluid in them and this can cause premature failure. that rear axle is not that weak and if you had serviced it regulalry it would have likely never failed. axle can have hard life but they can handle if properly serviced for usage. i would suggest that you go with at least 3.73 as the 3.55 will not save you that is not what i heard. someone told me he got 25 mpg with stop rear gears then switched to 3.73 for towing and it dropped to 21 mpg ok i gotta break my silence on this one. a halfton dodge of any sort getting 25 mpg is yours magical i rented a truck like yours it got about 13. my 318/5 spd/3.21 gets about 12 mpg and its at a very tired 130k miles... hell i know folks that would be trading in their out-of-tune chevy cavaliers for a 25 mpg dodge fullsize! did not say it was half ton js .

From : snoman

on thu 25 may 2006 180156 -0700 geekboy geekgeek@geeek.com wrote the 5.9 sure can get that much with the 3.54 read end gears. only in your dreams ----------------- the snoman www.thesnoman.com .

From : geekboy

on thu 25 may 2006 180156 -0700 geekboy geekgeek@geeek.com wrote the 5.9 sure can get that much with the 3.54 read end gears. only in your dreams ----------------- the snoman www.thesnoman.com guess you will just go buy a 2nd gen and find out. while you are dreaming a am living it. .

From : roy

on thu 25 may 2006 180156 -0700 geekboy geekgeek@geeek.com wrote the 5.9 sure can get that much with the 3.54 read end gears. only in your dreams i think hes talking about a cummins 5.9 roy .

From : geekboy

geekboy wrote geekboy wrote on wed 24 may 2006 205931 -0400 rscotto rscotto@bellsouth.net wrote i have a 98 ram qc 1500 92k miles 2wd auto 5.9 v-8 w/ 3.55 sure grip axle. the differential has developed a high pitched whine that increases in pitch with speed simultaneously the abs and brake lights have illuminted and the speedo does not register any speeds below 20 mph. i am pretty certain the abs/speedo sending unit in the axle housing is bad....any ideas what might have died in the differential any why there is a fine metallic sludge in the bottom of the housing and some small metal chips/shavings/etc. i plan to replace the ring and pinion with a set of richmond 3.55s and ther complete overhaul bearing and shim kit. i have the tool to adjust the carrier bearing preload on the way and have been able to get dial indicators torque wrenches and pinion depth tools from friends. anybody had there differential buy the farm what was the cause i was pulling an 1800# trailer when the whining started....any suggestions or tips thanks- rich the biggest reason for this is neglect. poeple tend to forget about rear axle and never change the fluid in them and this can cause premature failure. that rear axle is not that weak and if you had serviced it regulalry it would have likely never failed. axle can have hard life but they can handle if properly serviced for usage. i would suggest that you go with at least 3.73 as the 3.55 will not save you that is not what i heard. someone told me he got 25 mpg with stop rear gears then switched to 3.73 for towing and it dropped to 21 mpg ok i gotta break my silence on this one. a halfton dodge of any sort getting 25 mpg is yours magical i rented a truck like yours it got about 13. my 318/5 spd/3.21 gets about 12 mpg and its at a very tired 130k miles... hell i know folks that would be trading in their out-of-tune chevy cavaliers for a 25 mpg dodge fullsize! did not say it was half ton then the relevance is kinda nil. a 1999 3.9l auto 3.55 2wd dak extended cab will shit-n-get. a 1999 3.9 auto 3.55 2wd 1500 rc this engine was not an option in the extended/quad cab is completely gutless. theyre fairly work-able with 4.10s tho. reason dakotas are much lighter and have a significantly smaller aerodynamic profile. it takes a lot less power to push them down the road. also most of the driveline is lighter weight which greatly improves overall performance that 6 ft long 2 piece cast iron drive shaft in my 318 half ton weighs a lot as do the 16x7 steel wheels and the big 265/75r15 all terrains... hmm.. no wonder it runs like a slug ; also do realize your transmission actually gets beat on less with higher differential ratios. a reduced need to down shift and reduced cruising torque requirements can greatly extend transmission lifetime. actually i was refering to 2500 ctd js .

From : roy

and this post has what value i guess just about the same as all of your others none at all. what value you have to be kidding!! with crap you post you have the balls to question the value of anybodys postgbmfg that would be like me and mac demanding value from dennys attacks on us of course those attacks are unjustified.vbg it is all humor and maxs post was funny.; unjustified my skinny little ass!!! you do remember who the cheapshot champion is here dont you hint....hes a fricken patriot fan that likes to watch cars go in circles and make little puny sized holes in paper. real men shoot .30 cal or larger...bfg denny seems a nerve was touched. oh real men that survive learn to hit and git and dont carry a bunch of heavy stuff like .30 cal.bfg roy i didnt realized that hit and git was a priority when punching holes in paper. i need to readjust my tactics so i dont git a papercut. bfg about the only thing that i can think of thatd be better than the kick of a 8mm mauser might be a garand but i just dont have the pennys for one of them yet. what are you preparing for a invasion g your going to need some help carrying all the stuff youve been picking up. roy denny .

From : tbone

on fri 26 may 2006 091952 -0700 geekboy geekgeek@geeek.com wrote w you mean living the lie. no gas 360 will do that and a ctd might come close to that some time but the fuel costsmore here and has since last summer last winter it was 75 cent or more than gas too and when you factor in cost of engine manitainance and fuel you are loosing not saving money. ----------------- that was last year. with the sudden jump is gasoline prices diesel has not caught up and i do not think it will. the average cost of diesel where i am is 3.19 and has stayed that way for a month or more while gasoline is running 3.2x. lol get real that is area specific. here in nc the price of gas has dropped to around $2.65 regular while diesel has held at $2.89 and this is the summer when diesel is at its cheapest and gas is approaching its highest price. sorry sucka how old are you 16 plus what tom said. while tom makes a dam good argument there is no free lunch. as more people go to diesel the regulations on them are going to increase significantly and as for cost the added weight will cause increased wear on drive train and suspension components and the cost to repair just about anything on a diesel is significantly more than on gas engine. he mentioned the intake plenum gasket repair but failed to mention the cost of a diesel injector pump which can and do fail every now and then. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : roy

tom lawrence wrote summer last winter it was 75 cent or more than gas too and when you factor in cost of engine manitainance and fuel you are loosing not saving money. and how many times do i have to do the math and prove you wrong even at $3.00/gal for gasoline and $3.75/gal for diesel youre looking at 18-20mpg vs 11-13mpg. take the extremes - 13mpg at $3.00/gal vs. 18mpg at $3.75/gal. thats $0.231/mile for gas and $0.208/mile for diesel. lets say it was an extra $5000 for the diesel option. at that rate its a little over 200000 miles to break even... admittedly not that good yet far from a loss. i think the real factor is the vehicle. i drive a 132k mile 1999 dodge ram 1500 when im absolutely forced to. while it offers a comparatively nice quiet ride compared to my friends 96 2500 w/ ctd its quite obviously mechanically *very* tired. for comparison my friends truck has almost 300k hes had it in the shop a few times trans fried a 110k throttle issue around 200k stuck open and a stuck something-another cause it to not stop running one night oh and for comparison he gets $5k+ purchase offers on his truck regularly - and the old-school cummins rattle makes half the ladies in east texas hot. your ladies down there in east texas are heavy duty enough that they need a cummins to haul their fat ass around this from the original wide ride well i suppose being a fat ass denny knows what hes talking about. although he hauls his around in a gasser.vbg damn ole roy will be checking out texas instead of fla.. no way texas bush and broke back mountain. of course there is a bush in fla. but he can at least form a sentence. g that should set the tone for the test of the weekend. oh rabbit got the kid moved. what a pia!! two trips with a 24 truck loaded full the first and about 1/2 the second. into the hot tub first thing this morning and to the chriopractor 1st thing tuesday morning.g sore but it was kinda fun to get both of my sons together and watch the interaction again. house needs some work but nothing serious. has a huge lot for metro boston probably could sub divide it and put up another house. time will tell i guess. roy denny .

From : roy

either you guys buying these new $45000 diesel-duallys make a hellouva lot more money than i do or your wife works or youve won a small lottery somewhere. tell me how you swing a $6$700 or higher if you were upside-down on your trade-in truck note and still manage to eat are you maybe living in a rented dubl-wahyd in hawbuck someplace four or five guys all go in together on the note still sponging off mom & dad tell me your secret please because i want one of these too. - do you really want me to answer this roy .

From : roy

on fri 26 may 2006 091952 -0700 geekboy geekgeek@geeek.com wrote w you mean living the lie. no gas 360 will do that and a ctd might come close to that some time but the fuel costsmore here and has since last summer last winter it was 75 cent or more than gas too and when you factor in cost of engine manitainance and fuel you are loosing not saving money. ----------------- that was last year. with the sudden jump is gasoline prices diesel has not caught up and i do not think it will. the average cost of diesel where i am is 3.19 and has stayed that way for a month or more while gasoline is running 3.2x. lol get real that is area specific. here in nc the price of gas has dropped to around $2.65 regular while diesel has held at $2.89 and this is the summer when diesel is at its cheapest and gas is approaching its highest price. curious how much is diesel im going through there on the way to fl and am trying to figure fuel stops. sorry sucka how old are you 16 plus what tom said. while tom makes a dam good argument there is no free lunch. as more people go to diesel the regulations on them are going to increase significantly and as for cost the added weight will cause increased wear on drive train and suspension components and the cost to repair just about anything on a diesel is significantly more than on gas engine. he mentioned the intake plenum gasket repair but failed to mention the cost of a diesel injector pump which can and do fail every now and then. probably because the pump is warrantied for 100k. failure of the ip has about gone away since the lift pump failure has been corrected. roy -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : denny

and this post has what value i guess just about the same as all of your others none at all. what value you have to be kidding!! with crap you post you have the balls to question the value of anybodys postgbmfg that would be like me and mac demanding value from dennys attacks on us of course those attacks are unjustified.vbg it is all humor and maxs post was funny.; unjustified my skinny little ass!!! you do remember who the cheapshot champion is here dont you hint....hes a fricken patriot fan that likes to watch cars go in circles and make little puny sized holes in paper. real men shoot .30 cal or larger...bfg denny seems a nerve was touched. oh real men that survive learn to hit and git and dont carry a bunch of heavy stuff like .30 cal.bfg roy i didnt realized that hit and git was a priority when punching holes in paper. i need to readjust my tactics so i dont git a papercut. bfg about the only thing that i can think of thatd be better than the kick of a 8mm mauser might be a garand but i just dont have the pennys for one of them yet. what are you preparing for a invasion g your going to need some help carrying all the stuff youve been picking up. hmmmmmmm.....might have to get a bigger truck....... denny .

From : Annonymous

either you guys buying these new $45000 diesel-duallys make a hellouva lot more money than i do or your wife works or youve won a small lottery somewhere. tell me how you swing a $6$700 or higher if you were upside-down on your trade-in truck note and still manage to eat are you maybe living in a rented dubl-wahyd in hawbuck someplace four or five guys all go in together on the note still sponging off mom & dad tell me your secret please because i want one of these too. - lawrence tnloaswpraemnmcien5g@earthlink.net writes summer last winter it was 75 cent or more than gas too and when you factor in cost of engine manitainance and fuel you are loosing not saving money. and how many times do i have to do the math and prove you wrong even at $3.00/gal for gasoline and $3.75/gal for diesel youre looking at 18-20mpg vs 11-13mpg. take the extremes - 13mpg at $3.00/gal vs. 18mpg at $3.75/gal. thats $0.231/mile for gas and $0.208/mile for diesel. lets say it was an extra $5000 for the diesel option. at that rate its a little over 200000 miles to break even... admittedly not that good yet far from a loss. however when diesel prices are a little better for example im paying $2.99/gal right now while my gasoline-burning friends are paying between $2.89 and $3.21 or $0.166/mile. at that rate the cost of the engine is paid for in about 75000 miles - less if you factor in the higher gasoline prices $3.12 for 89 octane at the place that sells diesel for $2.99 here by me. the break-even time for a diesel gets even lower when you look at real-world performance. to get 13mpg from a gas-powered 1-ton truck youve got to really baby it. that same babying would get you 20-21mpg on the diesel engine. the mpg results drop more for a gas-powered pickup when towing a heavy load than they do for the diesel - again enhancing the cost benefit of the diesel engine. on resale a diesel-powered truck will get between $2500 and $3500 more than a comparable gas truck. so you need to factor that into your initial costs the fact that youll make it up on resale. using a figure of $3000 in resale now youve only got to make up $2000 in up-front costs... so 87000 miles using your prices or 30000 miles using my prices. as for the myth about higher maintenance costs... the diesel uses twice as much oil 12qts. vs. 6qts but the drain intervals are twice as long... thats a wash. air filters are a wash. theres a fuel filter that needs changing every 15000 miles or so - at a cost of $12. on the other side the gas engine needs plugs every 30k $30 cap/rotor/wires every 50k $80. the way i see it maintenance of a gas engine is the more expensive of the two. you want to talk about common repairs changing a water pump on a cummins takes about 30 minutes - the same job takes almost three times as long on a gas engine. book time on changing a timing chain... 4 hours maybe 0 on the diesel... everythings gear-driven. how many people with v8s on here have had to have an intake plenum gasket replaced again not an issue on the little i-6. change out a stuck/frozen lifter on a gas engine a few hours worth of work... not needed on a diesel solid lifters and flat tappets. granted you do need to adjust the valve lash every 100k or so... takes about 30 minutes. aside from the financial facts theres the drivability factor. owning both a cummins and a v10-powered 3500 and hauling with both of them theres no way i would ever choose to pull a load with the v10 over the cummins. in fact theres very little i use my v10 for at all these days. the v10 is a little quicker off the line but the cummins eats it for lunch on a rolling acceleration. my 45-80mph times for example in my v10 are twice that of my cummins. hey - i get it... diesels arent your thing. thats fine - but dont take your personal bias and try to apply it to the real-world benefits of burning oil rather than gasoline. your argument simply falls apart under even a bit of scrutiny. .

From : roy

either you guys buying these new $45000 diesel-duallys make a hellouva lot more money than i do or your wife works or youve won a small lottery somewhere. tell me how you swing a $6$700 or higher if you were upside-down on your trade-in truck note and still manage to eat are you maybe living in a rented dubl-wahyd in hawbuck someplace four or five guys all go in together on the note still sponging off mom & dad tell me your secret please because i want one of these too. - avoid the use of charge cards! use one in an emergency only then pay it off. hell no use them for everything and pick one that does something that you want or need like cash back or ff miles and then zero balance them every month so you dont pay any interest. yup thats true if you have the disipline to do it. most dont and there is where 80% of the trouble starts imo. roy .

From : roy

summer last winter it was 75 cent or more than gas too and when you factor in cost of engine manitainance and fuel you are loosing not saving money. and how many times do i have to do the math and prove you wrong even at $3.00/gal for gasoline and $3.75/gal for diesel youre looking at 18-20mpg vs 11-13mpg. take the extremes - 13mpg at $3.00/gal vs. 18mpg at $3.75/gal. thats $0.231/mile for gas and $0.208/mile for diesel. lets say it was an extra $5000 for the diesel option. at that rate its a little over 200000 miles to break even... admittedly not that good yet far from a loss. however when diesel prices are a little better for example im paying $2.99/gal right now while my gasoline-burning friends are paying between $2.89 and $3.21 or $0.166/mile. at that rate the cost of the engine is paid for in about 75000 miles - less if you factor in the higher gasoline prices $3.12 for 89 octane at the place that sells diesel for $2.99 here by me. the break-even time for a diesel gets even lower when you look at real-world performance. to get 13mpg from a gas-powered 1-ton truck youve got to really baby it. that same babying would get you 20-21mpg on the diesel engine. the mpg results drop more for a gas-powered pickup when towing a heavy load than they do for the diesel - again enhancing the cost benefit of the diesel engine. on resale a diesel-powered truck will get between $2500 and $3500 more than a comparable gas truck. so you need to factor that into your initial costs the fact that youll make it up on resale. using a figure of $3000 in resale now youve only got to make up $2000 in up-front costs... so 87000 miles using your prices or 30000 miles using my prices. as for the myth about higher maintenance costs... the diesel uses twice as much oil 12qts. vs. 6qts but the drain intervals are twice as long... thats a wash. air filters are a wash. theres a fuel filter that needs changing every 15000 miles or so - at a cost of $12. on the other side the gas engine needs plugs every 30k $30 cap/rotor/wires every 50k $80. the way i see it maintenance of a gas engine is the more expensive of the two. you want to talk about common repairs changing a water pump on a cummins takes about 30 minutes - the same job takes almost three times as long on a gas engine. book time on changing a timing chain... 4 hours maybe 0 on the diesel... everythings gear-driven. how many people with v8s on here have had to have an intake plenum gasket replaced again not an issue on the little i-6. change out a stuck/frozen lifter on a gas engine a few hours worth of work... not needed on a diesel solid lifters and flat tappets. granted you do need to adjust the valve lash every 100k or so... takes about 30 minutes. aside from the financial facts theres the drivability factor. owning both a cummins and a v10-powered 3500 and hauling with both of them theres no way i would ever choose to pull a load with the v10 over the cummins. in fact theres very little i use my v10 for at all these days. the v10 is a little quicker off the line but the cummins eats it for lunch on a rolling acceleration. my 45-80mph times for example in my v10 are twice that of my cummins. hey - i get it... diesels arent your thing. thats fine - but dont take your personal bias and try to apply it to the real-world benefits of burning oil rather than gasoline. your argument simply falls apart under even a bit of scrutiny. tom if you arent driving a friggin suburban and throwing oil all over the undercarriage you are not with the program. i guess you gotta do the same with the sheet metal so it wont rust too. gotta be kinda messy though. you hit on it though. some people just dont like a diesel. rather than just say so and be done with it they babble on about how expensive they are. but saying it and proving it are two different things. it is that simple likes and dislikes. ive said before if it were not for the cummins i probably would not be in a dodge. roy .

From : Annonymous

on sun 28 may 2006 150629 gmt ramman@dodgecity.cc wrote either you guys buying these new $45000 diesel-duallys make a hellouva lot more money than i do or your wife works or youve won a small lottery somewhere. tell me how you swing a $6$700 or higher if you were upside-down on your trade-in truck note and still manage to eat are you maybe living in a rented dubl-wahyd in hawbuck someplace four or five guys all go in together on the note still sponging off mom & dad tell me your secret please because i want one of these too. - i dont know about the others but i bought mine. not a dually though but still stickered in the range you were talking. i have a job i make a living. wasnt any harder than buying just about any other car or truck out there. lawrence tnloaswpraemnmcien5g@earthlink.net writes summer last winter it was 75 cent or more than gas too and when you factor in cost of engine manitainance and fuel you are loosing not saving money. and how many times do i have to do the math and prove you wrong even at $3.00/gal for gasoline and $3.75/gal for diesel youre looking at 18-20mpg vs 11-13mpg. take the extremes - 13mpg at $3.00/gal vs. 18mpg at $3.75/gal. thats $0.231/mile for gas and $0.208/mile for diesel. lets say it was an extra $5000 for the diesel option. at that rate its a little over 200000 miles to break even... admittedly not that good yet far from a loss. however when diesel prices are a little better for example im paying $2.99/gal right now while my gasoline-burning friends are paying between $2.89 and $3.21 or $0.166/mile. at that rate the cost of the engine is paid for in about 75000 miles - less if you factor in the higher gasoline prices $3.12 for 89 octane at the place that sells diesel for $2.99 here by me. the break-even time for a diesel gets even lower when you look at real-world performance. to get 13mpg from a gas-powered 1-ton truck youve got to really baby it. that same babying would get you 20-21mpg on the diesel engine. the mpg results drop more for a gas-powered pickup when towing a heavy load than they do for the diesel - again enhancing the cost benefit of the diesel engine. on resale a diesel-powered truck will get between $2500 and $3500 more than a comparable gas truck. so you need to factor that into your initial costs the fact that youll make it up on resale. using a figure of $3000 in resale now youve only got to make up $2000 in up-front costs... so 87000 miles using your prices or 30000 miles using my prices. as for the myth about higher maintenance costs... the diesel uses twice as much oil 12qts. vs. 6qts but the drain intervals are twice as long... thats a wash. air filters are a wash. theres a fuel filter that needs changing every 15000 miles or so - at a cost of $12. on the other side the gas engine needs plugs every 30k $30 cap/rotor/wires every 50k $80. the way i see it maintenance of a gas engine is the more expensive of the two. you want to talk about common repairs changing a water pump on a cummins takes about 30 minutes - the same job takes almost three times as long on a gas engine. book time on changing a timing chain... 4 hours maybe 0 on the diesel... everythings gear-driven. how many people with v8s on here have had to have an intake plenum gasket replaced again not an issue on the little i-6. change out a stuck/frozen lifter on a gas engine a few hours worth of work... not needed on a diesel solid lifters and flat tappets. granted you do need to adjust the valve lash every 100k or so... takes about 30 minutes. aside from the financial facts theres the drivability factor. owning both a cummins and a v10-powered 3500 and hauling with both of them theres no way i would ever choose to pull a load with the v10 over the cummins. in fact theres very little i use my v10 for at all these days. the v10 is a little quicker off the line but the cummins eats it for lunch on a rolling acceleration. my 45-80mph times for example in my v10 are twice that of my cummins. hey - i get it... diesels arent your thing. thats fine - but dont take your personal bias and try to apply it to the real-world benefits of burning oil rather than gasoline. your argument simply falls apart under even a bit of scrutiny. .

From : Annonymous

on sun 28 may 2006 111415 -0400 roy roy@home.net wrote summer last winter it was 75 cent or more than gas too and when you factor in cost of engine manitainance and fuel you are loosing not saving money. and how many times do i have to do the math and prove you wrong even at $3.00/gal for gasoline and $3.75/gal for diesel youre looking at 18-20mpg vs 11-13mpg. take the extremes - 13mpg at $3.00/gal vs. 18mpg at $3.75/gal. thats $0.231/mile for gas and $0.208/mile for diesel. lets say it was an extra $5000 for the diesel option. at that rate its a little over 200000 miles to break even... admittedly not that good yet far from a loss. however when diesel prices are a little better for example im paying $2.99/gal right now while my gasoline-burning friends are paying between $2.89 and $3.21 or $0.166/mile. at that rate the cost of the engine is paid for in about 75000 miles - less if you factor in the higher gasoline prices $3.12 for 89 octane at the place that sells diesel for $2.99 here by me. the break-even time for a diesel gets even lower when you look at real-world performance. to get 13mpg from a gas-powered 1-ton truck youve got to really baby it. that same babying would get you 20-21mpg on the diesel engine. the mpg results drop more for a gas-powered pickup when towing a heavy load than they do for the diesel - again enhancing the cost benefit of the diesel engine. on resale a diesel-powered truck will get between $2500 and $3500 more than a comparable gas truck. so you need to factor that into your initial costs the fact that youll make it up on resale. using a figure of $3000 in resale now youve only got to make up $2000 in up-front costs... so 87000 miles using your prices or 30000 miles using my prices. as for the myth about higher maintenance costs... the diesel uses twice as much oil 12qts. vs. 6qts but the drain intervals are twice as long... thats a wash. air filters are a wash. theres a fuel filter that needs changing every 15000 miles or so - at a cost of $12. on the other side the gas engine needs plugs every 30k $30 cap/rotor/wires every 50k $80. the way i see it maintenance of a gas engine is the more expensive of the two. you want to talk about common repairs changing a water pump on a cummins takes about 30 minutes - the same job takes almost three times as long on a gas engine. book time on changing a timing chain... 4 hours maybe 0 on the diesel... everythings gear-driven. how many people with v8s on here have had to have an intake plenum gasket replaced again not an issue on the little i-6. change out a stuck/frozen lifter on a gas engine a few hours worth of work... not needed on a diesel solid lifters and flat tappets. granted you do need to adjust the valve lash every 100k or so... takes about 30 minutes. aside from the financial facts theres the drivability factor. owning both a cummins and a v10-powered 3500 and hauling with both of them theres no way i would ever choose to pull a load with the v10 over the cummins. in fact theres very little i use my v10 for at all these days. the v10 is a little quicker off the line but the cummins eats it for lunch on a rolling acceleration. my 45-80mph times for example in my v10 are twice that of my cummins. hey - i get it... diesels arent your thing. thats fine - but dont take your personal bias and try to apply it to the real-world benefits of burning oil rather than gasoline. your argument simply falls apart under even a bit of scrutiny. tom if you arent driving a friggin suburban and throwing oil all over the undercarriage you are not with the program. i guess you gotta do the same with the sheet metal so it wont rust too. gotta be kinda messy though. you hit on it though. some people just dont like a diesel. rather than just say so and be done with it they babble on about how expensive they are. but saying it and proving it are two different things. it is that simple likes and dislikes. ive said before if it were not for the cummins i probably would not be in a dodge. roy and if diesel is such a bad option why did honda just announce the huge investment they are making in a 4 and 6 cyl diesel for thier cars and trucks in the future. funny why honda said in their announcement that they saw diesel as playing a huge role in the engines of the future. i guess honda doesnt know what they are doing either. they should have saved their time and energy and just asked tbone. .

From : denny

tom lawrence wrote summer last winter it was 75 cent or more than gas too and when you factor in cost of engine manitainance and fuel you are loosing not saving money. and how many times do i have to do the math and prove you wrong even at $3.00/gal for gasoline and $3.75/gal for diesel youre looking at 18-20mpg vs 11-13mpg. take the extremes - 13mpg at $3.00/gal vs. 18mpg at $3.75/gal. thats $0.231/mile for gas and $0.208/mile for diesel. lets say it was an extra $5000 for the diesel option. at that rate its a little over 200000 miles to break even... admittedly not that good yet far from a loss. i think the real factor is the vehicle. i drive a 132k mile 1999 dodge ram 1500 when im absolutely forced to. while it offers a comparatively nice quiet ride compared to my friends 96 2500 w/ ctd its quite obviously mechanically *very* tired. for comparison my friends truck has almost 300k hes had it in the shop a few times trans fried a 110k throttle issue around 200k stuck open and a stuck something-another cause it to not stop running one night oh and for comparison he gets $5k+ purchase offers on his truck regularly - and the old-school cummins rattle makes half the ladies in east texas hot. your ladies down there in east texas are heavy duty enough that they need a cummins to haul their fat ass around this from the original wide ride well i suppose being a fat ass denny knows what hes talking about. although he hauls his around in a gasser.vbg damn ole roy will be checking out texas instead of fla.. no way texas bush and broke back mountain. of course there is a bush in fla. but he can at least form a sentence. g that should set the tone for the test of the weekend. oh rabbit got the kid moved. what a pia!! two trips with a 24 truck loaded full the first and about 1/2 the second. into the hot tub first thing i gotta ask just for curiosity sake. is there any water left in the tub after you wedge your fat ass in there do you have to grease the sides so you can get out again this morning and to the chriopractor 1st thing tuesday morning. does he employ several pro wrestlers as assistants to roll you over g sore but it was kinda fun to get both of my sons together and watch the interaction again. house needs some work but nothing serious. has a huge lot for metro boston probably could sub divide it and put up another house. time will tell i guess. it is good to get family together again most of the time anyways.. g denny roy denny .

From : roy

tom lawrence wrote summer last winter it was 75 cent or more than gas too and when you factor in cost of engine manitainance and fuel you are loosing not saving money. and how many times do i have to do the math and prove you wrong even at $3.00/gal for gasoline and $3.75/gal for diesel youre looking at 18-20mpg vs 11-13mpg. take the extremes - 13mpg at $3.00/gal vs. 18mpg at $3.75/gal. thats $0.231/mile for gas and $0.208/mile for diesel. lets say it was an extra $5000 for the diesel option. at that rate its a little over 200000 miles to break even... admittedly not that good yet far from a loss. i think the real factor is the vehicle. i drive a 132k mile 1999 dodge ram 1500 when im absolutely forced to. while it offers a comparatively nice quiet ride compared to my friends 96 2500 w/ ctd its quite obviously mechanically *very* tired. for comparison my friends truck has almost 300k hes had it in the shop a few times trans fried a 110k throttle issue around 200k stuck open and a stuck something-another cause it to not stop running one night oh and for comparison he gets $5k+ purchase offers on his truck regularly - and the old-school cummins rattle makes half the ladies in east texas hot. your ladies down there in east texas are heavy duty enough that they need a cummins to haul their fat ass around this from the original wide ride well i suppose being a fat ass denny knows what hes talking about. although he hauls his around in a gasser.vbg damn ole roy will be checking out texas instead of fla.. no way texas bush and broke back mountain. of course there is a bush in fla. but he can at least form a sentence. g that should set the tone for the test of the weekend. oh rabbit got the kid moved. what a pia!! two trips with a 24 truck loaded full the first and about 1/2 the second. into the hot tub first thing i gotta ask just for curiosity sake. is there any water left in the tub after you wedge your fat ass in there do you have to grease the sides so you can get out again hold over 500 gal. plenty of room for me. you on the other hand........ this morning and to the chriopractor 1st thing tuesday morning. does he employ several pro wrestlers as assistants to roll you over doesnt roll me flips me.g g sore but it was kinda fun to get both of my sons together and watch the interaction again. house needs some work but nothing serious. has a huge lot for metro boston probably could sub divide it and put up another house. time will tell i guess. it is good to get family together again most of the time anyways.. g all in all a good time. roy denny roy denny .

From : roy

geekboy wrote geekboy wrote on wed 24 may 2006 205931 -0400 rscotto rscotto@bellsouth.net wrote i have a 98 ram qc 1500 92k miles 2wd auto 5.9 v-8 w/ 3.55 sure grip axle. the differential has developed a high pitched whine that increases in pitch with speed simultaneously the abs and brake lights have illuminted and the speedo does not register any speeds below 20 mph. i am pretty certain the abs/speedo sending unit in the axle housing is bad....any ideas what might have died in the differential any why there is a fine metallic sludge in the bottom of the housing and some small metal chips/shavings/etc. i plan to replace the ring and pinion with a set of richmond 3.55s and ther complete overhaul bearing and shim kit. i have the tool to adjust the carrier bearing preload on the way and have been able to get dial indicators torque wrenches and pinion depth tools from friends. anybody had there differential buy the farm what was the cause i was pulling an 1800# trailer when the whining started....any suggestions or tips thanks- rich the biggest reason for this is neglect. poeple tend to forget about rear axle and never change the fluid in them and this can cause premature failure. that rear axle is not that weak and if you had serviced it regulalry it would have likely never failed. axle can have hard life but they can handle if properly serviced for usage. i would suggest that you go with at least 3.73 as the 3.55 will not save you that is not what i heard. someone told me he got 25 mpg with stop rear gears then switched to 3.73 for towing and it dropped to 21 mpg ok i gotta break my silence on this one. a halfton dodge of any sort getting 25 mpg is yours magical i rented a truck like yours it got about 13. my 318/5 spd/3.21 gets about 12 mpg and its at a very tired 130k miles... hell i know folks that would be trading in their out-of-tune chevy cavaliers for a 25 mpg dodge fullsize! did not say it was half ton then the relevance is kinda nil. a 1999 3.9l auto 3.55 2wd dak extended cab will shit-n-get. a 1999 3.9 auto 3.55 2wd 1500 rc this engine was not an option in the extended/quad cab is completely gutless. theyre fairly work-able with 4.10s tho. reason dakotas are much lighter and have a significantly smaller aerodynamic profile. it takes a lot less power to push them down the road. also most of the driveline is lighter weight which greatly improves overall performance that 6 ft long 2 piece cast iron drive shaft in my 318 half ton weighs a lot as do the 16x7 steel wheels and the big 265/75r15 all terrains... hmm.. no wonder it runs like a slug ; also do realize your transmission actually gets beat on less with higher differential ratios. a reduced need to down shift and reduced cruising torque requirements can greatly extend transmission lifetime. actually i was refering to 2500 ctd even so that is a bit of a reach imo roy js .

From : geekboy

geekboy wrote geekboy wrote on wed 24 may 2006 205931 -0400 rscotto rscotto@bellsouth.net wrote i have a 98 ram qc 1500 92k miles 2wd auto 5.9 v-8 w/ 3.55 sure grip axle. the differential has developed a high pitched whine that increases in pitch with speed simultaneously the abs and brake lights have illuminted and the speedo does not register any speeds below 20 mph. i am pretty certain the abs/speedo sending unit in the axle housing is bad....any ideas what might have died in the differential any why there is a fine metallic sludge in the bottom of the housing and some small metal chips/shavings/etc. i plan to replace the ring and pinion with a set of richmond 3.55s and ther complete overhaul bearing and shim kit. i have the tool to adjust the carrier bearing preload on the way and have been able to get dial indicators torque wrenches and pinion depth tools from friends. anybody had there differential buy the farm what was the cause i was pulling an 1800# trailer when the whining started....any suggestions or tips thanks- rich the biggest reason for this is neglect. poeple tend to forget about rear axle and never change the fluid in them and this can cause premature failure. that rear axle is not that weak and if you had serviced it regulalry it would have likely never failed. axle can have hard life but they can handle if properly serviced for usage. i would suggest that you go with at least 3.73 as the 3.55 will not save you that is not what i heard. someone told me he got 25 mpg with stop rear gears then switched to 3.73 for towing and it dropped to 21 mpg ok i gotta break my silence on this one. a halfton dodge of any sort getting 25 mpg is yours magical i rented a truck like yours it got about 13. my 318/5 spd/3.21 gets about 12 mpg and its at a very tired 130k miles... hell i know folks that would be trading in their out-of-tune chevy cavaliers for a 25 mpg dodge fullsize! did not say it was half ton then the relevance is kinda nil. a 1999 3.9l auto 3.55 2wd dak extended cab will shit-n-get. a 1999 3.9 auto 3.55 2wd 1500 rc this engine was not an option in the extended/quad cab is completely gutless. theyre fairly work-able with 4.10s tho. reason dakotas are much lighter and have a significantly smaller aerodynamic profile. it takes a lot less power to push them down the road. also most of the driveline is lighter weight which greatly improves overall performance that 6 ft long 2 piece cast iron drive shaft in my 318 half ton weighs a lot as do the 16x7 steel wheels and the big 265/75r15 all terrains... hmm.. no wonder it runs like a slug ; also do realize your transmission actually gets beat on less with higher differential ratios. a reduced need to down shift and reduced cruising torque requirements can greatly extend transmission lifetime. actually i was refering to 2500 ctd even so that is a bit of a reach imo not when most people with 99 and up are reporting 22 mpg roy js .

From : hodad

about the only thing that i can think of thatd be better than the kick of a 8mm mauser might be a garand but i just dont have the pennys for one of them yet. what are you preparing for a invasion g your going to need some help carrying all the stuff youve been picking up. roy a man cant own too many guns or knives! i myself dont really care much for knives so i try to make up for it in guns. ; and bigger holes in paper are easier to see from a distance. bfg hd .

From : christopher thompson

i work for a living. thats how i do it. and no i dont live in a trailer....i live in a quite nice house brick at that. and except for the trucks and naturally the house everything i own is paid for. -- -chris 05 ctd 06 liberty crd either you guys buying these new $45000 diesel-duallys make a hellouva lot more money than i do or your wife works or youve won a small lottery somewhere. tell me how you swing a $6$700 or higher if you were upside-down on your trade-in truck note and still manage to eat are you maybe living in a rented dubl-wahyd in hawbuck someplace four or five guys all go in together on the note still sponging off mom & dad tell me your secret please because i want one of these too. - lawrence tnloaswpraemnmcien5g@earthlink.net writes summer last winter it was 75 cent or more than gas too and when you factor in cost of engine manitainance and fuel you are loosing not saving money. and how many times do i have to do the math and prove you wrong even at $3.00/gal for gasoline and $3.75/gal for diesel youre looking at 18-20mpg vs 11-13mpg. take the extremes - 13mpg at $3.00/gal vs. 18mpg at $3.75/gal. thats $0.231/mile for gas and $0.208/mile for diesel. lets say it was an extra $5000 for the diesel option. at that rate its a little over 200000 miles to break even... admittedly not that good yet far from a loss. however when diesel prices are a little better for example im paying $2.99/gal right now while my gasoline-burning friends are paying between $2.89 and $3.21 or $0.166/mile. at that rate the cost of the engine is paid for in about 75000 miles - less if you factor in the higher gasoline prices $3.12 for 89 octane at the place that sells diesel for $2.99 here by me. the break-even time for a diesel gets even lower when you look at real-world performance. to get 13mpg from a gas-powered 1-ton truck youve got to really baby it. that same babying would get you 20-21mpg on the diesel engine. the mpg results drop more for a gas-powered pickup when towing a heavy load than they do for the diesel - again enhancing the cost benefit of the diesel engine. on resale a diesel-powered truck will get between $2500 and $3500 more than a comparable gas truck. so you need to factor that into your initial costs the fact that youll make it up on resale. using a figure of $3000 in resale now youve only got to make up $2000 in up-front costs... so 87000 miles using your prices or 30000 miles using my prices. as for the myth about higher maintenance costs... the diesel uses twice as much oil 12qts. vs. 6qts but the drain intervals are twice as long... thats a wash. air filters are a wash. theres a fuel filter that needs changing every 15000 miles or so - at a cost of $12. on the other side the gas engine needs plugs every 30k $30 cap/rotor/wires every 50k $80. the way i see it maintenance of a gas engine is the more expensive of the two. you want to talk about common repairs changing a water pump on a cummins takes about 30 minutes - the same job takes almost three times as long on a gas engine. book time on changing a timing chain... 4 hours maybe 0 on the diesel... everythings gear-driven. how many people with v8s on here have had to have an intake plenum gasket replaced again not an issue on the little i-6. change out a stuck/frozen lifter on a gas engine a few hours worth of work... not needed on a diesel solid lifters and flat tappets. granted you do need to adjust the valve lash every 100k or so... takes about 30 minutes. aside from the financial facts theres the drivability factor. owning both a cummins and a v10-powered 3500 and hauling with both of them theres no way i would ever choose to pull a load with the v10 over the cummins. in fact theres very little i use my v10 for at all these days. the v10 is a little quicker off the line but the cummins eats it for lunch on a rolling acceleration. my 45-80mph times for example in my v10 are twice that of my cummins. hey - i get it... diesels arent your thing. thats fine - but dont take your personal bias and try to apply it to the real-world benefits of burning oil rather than gasoline. your argument simply falls apart under even a bit of scrutiny. .

From : christopher thompson

geekboy wrote geekboy wrote on wed 24 may 2006 205931 -0400 rscotto rscotto@bellsouth.net wrote i have a 98 ram qc 1500 92k miles 2wd auto 5.9 v-8 w/ 3.55 sure grip axle. the differential has developed a high pitched whine that increases in pitch with speed simultaneously the abs and brake lights have illuminted and the speedo does not register any speeds below 20 mph. i am pretty certain the abs/speedo sending unit in the axle housing is bad....any ideas what might have died in the differential any why there is a fine metallic sludge in the bottom of the housing and some small metal chips/shavings/etc. i plan to replace the ring and pinion with a set of richmond 3.55s and ther complete overhaul bearing and shim kit. i have the tool to adjust the carrier bearing preload on the way and have been able to get dial indicators torque wrenches and pinion depth tools from friends. anybody had there differential buy the farm what was the cause i was pulling an 1800# trailer when the whining started....any suggestions or tips thanks- rich the biggest reason for this is neglect. poeple tend to forget about rear axle and never change the fluid in them and this can cause premature failure. that rear axle is not that weak and if you had serviced it regulalry it would have likely never failed. axle can have hard life but they can handle if properly serviced for usage. i would suggest that you go with at least 3.73 as the 3.55 will not save you that is not what i heard. someone told me he got 25 mpg with stop rear gears then switched to 3.73 for towing and it dropped to 21 mpg ok i gotta break my silence on this one. a halfton dodge of any sort getting 25 mpg is yours magical i rented a truck like yours it got about 13. my 318/5 spd/3.21 gets about 12 mpg and its at a very tired 130k miles... hell i know folks that would be trading in their out-of-tune chevy cavaliers for a 25 mpg dodge fullsize! did not say it was half ton then the relevance is kinda nil. a 1999 3.9l auto 3.55 2wd dak extended cab will shit-n-get. a 1999 3.9 auto 3.55 2wd 1500 rc this engine was not an option in the extended/quad cab is completely gutless. theyre fairly work-able with 4.10s tho. reason dakotas are much lighter and have a significantly smaller aerodynamic profile. it takes a lot less power to push them down the road. also most of the driveline is lighter weight which greatly improves overall performance that 6 ft long 2 piece cast iron drive shaft in my 318 half ton weighs a lot as do the 16x7 steel wheels and the big 265/75r15 all terrains... hmm.. no wonder it runs like a slug ; also do realize your transmission actually gets beat on less with higher differential ratios. a reduced need to down shift and reduced cruising torque requirements can greatly extend transmission lifetime. actually i was refering to 2500 ctd even so that is a bit of a reach imo not when most people with 99 and up are reporting 22 mpg i get 21 if i can keep my foot off the trottle...... 19 most of the time with my normal driving to and from work/around town. -- -chris 05 ctd 06 liberty crd roy js .

From : rscotto

my current ratio is 3.55 i was considering 3.73 until i found that you cant find 3.73 anywhere. 3.21 3.55 3.90 and 4.10 are the only ratios i have found for the 9.25 as an interesting bit of information regarding yukon gear sets....this is what jawsgear.net says about yukon gears yukon gear ring and pinions are a mixture of several aftermarket brands of gears out on the market today. you could open the box and find a us gear richmond gear dana gear motive gear genuine gear or a true yukon gear. they are mixed to show a larger product line. if you are wanting a specific gear be sure to call and verify what brand you might truely be getting this gear usually sets easily and runs quite when properly installed. on wed 24 may 2006 205931 -0400 rscotto rscotto@bellsouth.net wrote i have a 98 ram qc 1500 92k miles 2wd auto 5.9 v-8 w/ 3.55 sure grip axle. the differential has developed a high pitched whine that increases in pitch with speed simultaneously the abs and brake lights have illuminted and the speedo does not register any speeds below 20 mph. i am pretty certain the abs/speedo sending unit in the axle housing is bad....any ideas what might have died in the differential any why there is a fine metallic sludge in the bottom of the housing and some small metal chips/shavings/etc. i plan to replace the ring and pinion with a set of richmond 3.55s and ther complete overhaul bearing and shim kit. i have the tool to adjust the carrier bearing preload on the way and have been able to get dial indicators torque wrenches and pinion depth tools from friends. anybody had there differential buy the farm what was the cause i was pulling an 1800# trailer when the whining started....any suggestions or tips thanks- rich the biggest reason for this is neglect. poeple tend to forget about rear axle and never change the fluid in them and this can cause premature failure. that rear axle is not that weak and if you had serviced it regulalry it would have likely never failed. axle can have hard life but they can handle if properly serviced for usage. i would suggest that you go with at least 3.73 as the 3.55 will not save you any gas with od. also change axle lube about 1000 miles after installation break in period and about every 20 to 30k after that. some use syn fluid but it still get dirty and there is no filter back there. one final comment i would call a richmond gear a cheap gearset and it would not be my first choice to use. i would suggest a yukon or precision gear gearset. ----------------- the snoman www.thesnoman.com .

From : tbone

and it doesnt even come close to using the same axle as the 1500 series. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving geekboy wrote geekboy wrote on wed 24 may 2006 205931 -0400 rscotto rscotto@bellsouth.net wrote i have a 98 ram qc 1500 92k miles 2wd auto 5.9 v-8 w/ 3.55 sure grip axle. the differential has developed a high pitched whine that increases in pitch with speed simultaneously the abs and brake lights have illuminted and the speedo does not register any speeds below 20 mph. i am pretty certain the abs/speedo sending unit in the axle housing is bad....any ideas what might have died in the differential any why

From : christopher thompson

even so that is a bit of a reach imo not when most people with 99 and up are reporting 22 mpg i get 21 if i can keep my foot off the trottle...... 19 most of the time with my normal driving to and from work/around town. automatic 50 inch tires 4x4 4.11 rear end no 6 speed 3.73 rear end stock steel/michlin 17 wheels/tires keep in mind my truck is an st no frills bought it for what it was built for truck. -- -chris 05 ctd 06 liberty crd .

From : snoman

on thu 25 may 2006 024121 -0500 js jsuter@intrastardot.net wrote that is not what i heard. someone told me he got 25 mpg with stop rear gears then switched to 3.73 for towing and it dropped to 21 mpg ok i gotta break my silence on this one. a halfton dodge of any sort getting 25 mpg is yours magical i agree with the magical part i take this mpg claim with a grain of salt. no way a dodge p/u with a 360 got 25 mpg. typically they get about half that and sometime a bit better. the dodge 360 gas motor does not have a good track record for fuel economy. ----------------- the snoman www.thesnoman.com .

From : tom lawrence

i get 21 if i can keep my foot off the trottle...... 19 most of the time with my normal driving to and from work/around town. automatic 50 inch tires 4x4 4.11 rear end get your head out of the clouds and back to reality... thats a perfectly normal mpg rate for his truck. the 3rd gens especially the 04.5s and up get worse fuel mileage than a 2nd gen... the engines make more power burn more fuel the gear ratios are higher 3.54 used to be standard - now its a 3.73 and the aerodynamics arent as good as the 2nd gens. im also in the 18-19mpg range closer to 18 with normal driving. like chris i can push it up into the low 20s with judicious use of the right pedal - but thats just not an fun. .

From : geekboy

on thu 25 may 2006 024121 -0500 js jsuter@intrastardot.net wrote that is not what i heard. someone told me he got 25 mpg with stop rear gears then switched to 3.73 for towing and it dropped to 21 mpg ok i gotta break my silence on this one. a halfton dodge of any sort getting 25 mpg is yours magical i agree with the magical part i take this mpg claim with a grain of salt. no way a dodge p/u with a 360 got 25 mpg. typically they get about half that and sometime a bit better. the dodge 360 gas motor does not have a good track record for fuel economy. ----------------- the 5.9 sure can get that much with the 3.54 read end gears. the snoman www.thesnoman.com .

From : geekboy

i get 21 if i can keep my foot off the trottle...... 19 most of the time with my normal driving to and from work/around town. automatic 50 inch tires 4x4 4.11 rear end get your head out of the clouds and back to reality... thats a perfectly normal mpg rate for his truck. the 3rd gens especially the 04.5s and up get worse fuel mileage than a 2nd gen... the engines make more power burn more fuel the gear ratios are higher 3.54 used to be standard - now its a 3.73 and the aerodynamics arent as good as the 2nd gens. im also in the 18-19mpg range closer to 18 with normal driving. like chris i can push it up into the low 20s with judicious use of the right pedal - but thats just not an fun. i have not messed with the 3rd gens too much. i know for sure my 2nd gen gets 21 mpg highway miles with the rear end set at 3.73 at the price for fuel not i am considering going back to 3.54 to get 25mpg. the thing is that my banks power pack gives me just as much hp and torque as the 3rd gen without the fuel increase. gb .

From : geekboy

a fine metallic sludge in the bottom of the housing and some small metal chips/shavings/etc. i plan to replace the ring and pinion with a set of richmond 3.55s and ther complete overhaul bearing and shim kit. i have the tool to adjust the carrier bearing preload on the way and have been able to get dial indicators torque wrenches and pinion depth tools from friends. anybody had there differential buy the farm what was the cause i was pulling an 1800# trailer when the whining started....any suggestions or tips thanks- rich the biggest reason for this is neglect. poeple tend to forget about rear axle and never change the fluid in them and this can cause premature failure. that rear axle is not that weak and if you had serviced it regulalry it would have likely never failed. axle can have hard life but they can handle if properly serviced for usage. i would suggest that you go with at least 3.73 as the 3.55 will not save you that is not what i heard. someone told me he got 25 mpg with stop rear gears then switched to 3.73 for towing and it dropped to 21 mpg ok i gotta break my silence on this one. a halfton dodge of any sort getting 25 mpg is yours magical i rented a truck like yours it got about 13. my 318/5 spd/3.21 gets about 12 mpg and its at a very tired 130k miles... hell i know folks that would be trading in their out-of-tune chevy cavaliers for a 25 mpg dodge fullsize! did not say it was half ton then the relevance is kinda nil. a 1999 3.9l auto 3.55 2wd dak extended cab will shit-n-get. a 1999 3.9 auto 3.55 2wd 1500 rc this engine was not an option in the extended/quad cab is completely gutless. theyre fairly work-able with 4.10s tho. reason dakotas are much lighter and have a significantly smaller aerodynamic profile. it takes a lot less power to push them down the road. also most of the driveline is lighter weight which greatly improves overall performance that 6 ft long 2 piece cast iron drive shaft in my 318 half ton weighs a lot as do the 16x7 steel wheels and the big 265/75r15 all terrains... hmm.. no wonder it runs like a slug ; also do realize your transmission actually gets beat on less with higher differential ratios. a reduced need to down shift and reduced cruising torque requirements can greatly extend transmission lifetime. actually i was refering to 2500 ctd even so that is a bit of a reach imo roy js . 222 318354 44761d81$0$23748$a82e2bb9@reader.athena.com geekboy wrote geekboy wrote on wed 24 may 2006 205931 -0400 rscotto rscotto@bellsouth.net wrote i have a 98 ram qc 1500 92k miles 2wd auto 5.9 v-8 w/ 3.55 sure grip axle. the differential has developed a high pitched whine that increases in pitch with speed simultaneously the abs and brake lights have illuminted and the speedo does not register any speeds below 20 mph. i am pretty certain the abs/speedo sending unit in the axle housing is bad....any ideas what might have died in the differential any why there is a fine metallic sludge in the bottom of the housing and some small metal chips/shavings/etc. i plan to replace the ring and pinion with a set of richmond 3.55s and ther complete overhaul bearing and shim kit. i have the tool to adjust the carrier bearing preload on the way and have been able to get dial indicators torque wrenches and pinion depth tools from friends. anybody had there differential buy the farm what was the cause i was pulling an 1800# trailer when the whining started....any suggestions or tips thanks- rich the biggest reason for this is neglect. poeple tend to forget about rear axle and never change the fluid in them and this can cause premature failure. that rear axle is not that weak and if you had serviced it regulalry it would have likely never failed. axle can have hard life but they can handle if properly serviced for usage. i would suggest that you go with at least 3.73 as the 3.55 will not save you that is not what i heard. someone told me he got 25 mpg with stop rear gears then switched to 3.73 for towing and it dropped to 21 mpg ok i gotta break my silence on this one. a halfton dodge of any sort getting 25 mpg is yours magical i rented a truck like yours it got about 13. my 318/5 spd/3.21 gets about 12 mpg and its at a very tired 130k miles... hell i know folks that would be trading in their out-of-tune chevy cavaliers for a 25 mpg dodge fullsize! did not say it was half ton then the relevance is kinda nil. a 1999 3.9l auto 3.55 2wd dak extended cab will shit-n-get. a 1999 3.9 auto 3.55 2wd 1500 rc this engine was not an option in the extended/quad cab is completely gutless. theyre fairly work-able with 4.10s tho. reason dakotas are much lighter and have a significantly smaller aerodynamic profile. it takes a lot less power to push them down the r

From : js

geekboy wrote on thu 25 may 2006 024121 -0500 js jsuter@intrastardot.net wrote that is not what i heard. someone told me he got 25 mpg with stop rear gears then switched to 3.73 for towing and it dropped to 21 mpg ok i gotta break my silence on this one. a halfton dodge of any sort getting 25 mpg is yours magical i agree with the magical part i take this mpg claim with a grain of salt. no way a dodge p/u with a 360 got 25 mpg. typically they get about half that and sometime a bit better. the dodge 360 gas motor does not have a good track record for fuel economy. ----------------- the 5.9 sure can get that much with the 3.54 read end gears. you realize the subject of this thread is re rear end whine on 98 ram 1500.. the truck youre talking about has absolutely no relation to your diesel truck at the axles or any other part of the driveline. now i remember why i quit bothering to read here... js .

From : geekboy

geekboy wrote on thu 25 may 2006 024121 -0500 js jsuter@intrastardot.net wrote that is not what i heard. someone told me he got 25 mpg with stop rear gears then switched to 3.73 for towing and it dropped to 21 mpg ok i gotta break my silence on this one. a halfton dodge of any sort getting 25 mpg is yours magical i agree with the magical part i take this mpg claim with a grain of salt. no way a dodge p/u with a 360 got 25 mpg. typically they get about half that and sometime a bit better. the dodge 360 gas motor does not have a good track record for fuel economy. ----------------- the 5.9 sure can get that much with the 3.54 read end gears. you realize the subject of this thread is re rear end whine on 98 ram 1500.. the truck youre talking about has absolutely no relation to your diesel truck at the axles or any other part of the driveline. now i remember why i quit bothering to read here... your ignorance is showing. a gear is a gear if they have the same ratio no matter what size they are. js .

From : beekeep

on wed 24 may 2006 205931 -0400 rscotto rscotto@bellsouth.net wrote i have a 98 ram qc 1500 92k miles 2wd auto 5.9 v-8 w/ 3.55 sure grip axle. the differential has developed a high pitched whine that increases in pitch with speed simultaneously the abs and brake lights have illuminted and the speedo does not register any speeds below 20 mph. i am pretty certain the abs/speedo sending unit in the axle housing is bad....any ideas what might have died in the differential any why there is a fine metallic sludge in the bottom of the housing and some small metal chips/shavings/etc. i plan to replace the ring and pinion with a set of richmond 3.55s and ther complete overhaul bearing and shim kit. i have the tool to adjust the carrier bearing preload on the way and have been able to get dial indicators torque wrenches and pinion depth tools from friends. anybody had there differential buy the farm what was the cause i was pulling an 1800# trailer when the whining started....any suggestions or tips thanks- rich just a note. several years back i bought a nearly new 3.55 rear gear set off of ebay for around $20.00. the shipping cost more than the gears and bearings. 100k later and they are doing fine. people change the ratios and tires on new vehicles and there are some bargins out there. beekeep .

From : tbone

on wed 24 may 2006 205931 -0400 rscotto rscotto@bellsouth.net wrote i have a 98 ram qc 1500 92k miles 2wd auto 5.9 v-8 w/ 3.55 sure grip axle. the differential has developed a high pitched whine that increases in pitch with speed simultaneously the abs and brake lights have illuminted and the speedo does not register any speeds below 20 mph. i am pretty certain the abs/speedo sending unit in the axle housing is bad....any ideas what might have died in the differential any why there is a fine metallic sludge in the bottom of the housing and some small metal chips/shavings/etc. i plan to replace the ring and pinion with a set of richmond 3.55s and ther complete overhaul bearing and shim kit. i have the tool to adjust the carrier bearing preload on the way and have been able to get dial indicators torque wrenches and pinion depth tools from friends. anybody had there differential buy the farm what was the cause i was pulling an 1800# trailer when the whining started....any suggestions or tips thanks- rich the biggest reason for this is neglect. poeple tend to forget about rear axle and never change the fluid in them and this can cause premature failure. that rear axle is not that weak and if you had serviced it regulalry it would have likely never failed. complete bullshit. there have been way to many failures of this particular rear to attribute this to maintenance. sure if you change the fluid daily and only drive it down hill on sunny days even the biggest pos made will have a long life but that is not reality. in reality as you said moat people ignore the rear axle and it needs to be built with that in mind and most are. i have never had a rear axle failure before this truck. axle can have hard life but they can handle if properly serviced for usage. agreed but many of this unit fail even without having a hard life. i would suggest that you go with at least 3.73 as the 3.55 will not save you any gas with od. then perhaps he simply should not use od as what you are doing basically accomplishes the same thing. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : tbone

geekboy wrote on thu 25 may 2006 024121 -0500 js jsuter@intrastardot.net wrote that is not what i heard. someone told me he got 25 mpg with stop rear gears then switched to 3.73 for towing and it dropped to 21 mpg ok i gotta break my silence on this one. a halfton dodge of any sort getting 25 mpg is yours magical i agree with the magical part i take this mpg claim with a grain of salt. no way a dodge p/u with a 360 got 25 mpg. typically they get about half that and sometime a bit better. the dodge 360 gas motor does not have a good track record for fuel economy. ----------------- the 5.9 sure can get that much with the 3.54 read end gears. you realize the subject of this thread is re rear end whine on 98 ram 1500.. the truck youre talking about has absolutely no relation to your diesel truck at the axles or any other part of the driveline. now i remember why i quit bothering to read here... your ignorance is showing. a gear is a gear if they have the same ratio no matter what size they are. once again you make a complete ass out of yourself and show your own ignorance is showing. what does the gear ratio have to do with the ops post he was referring to the failure of a specific rear used in the 1500 series the dc 9 1/4 which is not used in the 2500 or 3500 and has nothing to do with the ratio used. according to you i should be able to pull the diff out of a pinto and install it in a kennworth because after all a gear is a gear right -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : tom lawrence

a gear is a gear if they have the same ratio no matter what size they are. but a chrysler 9.25 is not a dana 70... one is a full-floater the other is a c-clip. one uses shims the other uses preload adjusters... just to name a couple of differences. .

From : snoman

on fri 26 may 2006 091952 -0700 geekboy geekgeek@geeek.com wrote w you mean living the lie. no gas 360 will do that and a ctd might come close to that some time but the fuel costsmore here and has since last summer last winter it was 75 cent or more than gas too and when you factor in cost of engine manitainance and fuel you are loosing not saving money. ----------------- the snoman www.thesnoman.com .

From : tom lawrence

summer last winter it was 75 cent or more than gas too and when you factor in cost of engine manitainance and fuel you are loosing not saving money. and how many times do i have to do the math and prove you wrong even at $3.00/gal for gasoline and $3.75/gal for diesel youre looking at 18-20mpg vs 11-13mpg. take the extremes - 13mpg at $3.00/gal vs. 18mpg at $3.75/gal. thats $0.231/mile for gas and $0.208/mile for diesel. lets say it was an extra $5000 for the diesel option. at that rate its a little over 200000 miles to break even... admittedly not that good yet far from a loss. however when diesel prices are a little better for example im paying $2.99/gal right now while my gasoline-burning friends are paying between $2.89 and $3.21 or $0.166/mile. at that rate the cost of the engine is paid for in about 75000 miles - less if you factor in the higher gasoline prices $3.12 for 89 octane at the place that sells diesel for $2.99 here by me. the break-even time for a diesel gets even lower when you look at real-world performance. to get 13mpg from a gas-powered 1-ton truck youve got to really baby it. that same babying would get you 20-21mpg on the diesel engine. the mpg results drop more for a gas-powered pickup when towing a heavy load than they do for the diesel - again enhancing the cost benefit of the diesel engine. on resale a diesel-powered truck will get between $2500 and $3500 more than a comparable gas truck. so you need to factor that into your initial costs the fact that youll make it up on resale. using a figure of $3000 in resale now youve only got to make up $2000 in up-front costs... so 87000 miles using your prices or 30000 miles using my prices. as for the myth about higher maintenance costs... the diesel uses twice as much oil 12qts. vs. 6qts but the drain intervals are twice as long... thats a wash. air filters are a wash. theres a fuel filter that needs changing every 15000 miles or so - at a cost of $12. on the other side the gas engine needs plugs every 30k $30 cap/rotor/wires every 50k $80. the way i see it maintenance of a gas engine is the more expensive of the two. you want to talk about common repairs changing a water pump on a cummins takes about 30 minutes - the same job takes almost three times as long on a gas engine. book time on changing a timing chain... 4 hours maybe 0 on the diesel... everythings gear-driven. how many people with v8s on here have had to have an intake plenum gasket replaced again not an issue on the little i-6. change out a stuck/frozen lifter on a gas engine a few hours worth of work... not needed on a diesel solid lifters and flat tappets. granted you do need to adjust the valve lash every 100k or so... takes about 30 minutes. aside from the financial facts theres the drivability factor. owning both a cummins and a v10-powered 3500 and hauling with both of them theres no way i would ever choose to pull a load with the v10 over the cummins. in fact theres very little i use my v10 for at all these days. the v10 is a little quicker off the line but the cummins eats it for lunch on a rolling acceleration. my 45-80mph times for example in my v10 are twice that of my cummins. hey - i get it... diesels arent your thing. thats fine - but dont take your personal bias and try to apply it to the real-world benefits of burning oil rather than gasoline. your argument simply falls apart under even a bit of scrutiny. .

From : geekboy

a gear is a gear if they have the same ratio no matter what size they are. but a chrysler 9.25 is not a dana 70... one is a full-floater the other is a c-clip. one uses shims the other uses preload adjusters... just to name a couple of differences. well my point was that is gears have the same ratio even one maybe the size of the moon and the over the size of a marble they will rotate the wheels at the same rate. *** posted via a free usenet account from http//www.tera.com *** .

From : Annonymous

on fri 26 may 2006 124008 -0400 roy roy@home.net wrote on thu 25 may 2006 180156 -0700 geekboy geekgeek@geeek.com wrote the 5.9 sure can get that much with the 3.54 read end gears. only in your dreams i think hes talking about a cummins 5.9 roy havent seen you posting too much lately. is everything ok after the talk about the floods i just hope they didnt cause you a bunch of damage .

From : tbone

a gear is a gear if they have the same ratio no matter what size they are. but a chrysler 9.25 is not a dana 70... one is a full-floater the other is a c-clip. one uses shims the other uses preload adjusters... just to name a couple of differences. well my point was that is gears have the same ratio even one maybe the size of the moon and the over the size of a marble they will rotate the wheels at the same rate. which has nothing to do with the ops post. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : geekboy

on fri 26 may 2006 091952 -0700 geekboy geekgeek@geeek.com wrote w you mean living the lie. no gas 360 will do that and a ctd might come close to that some time but the fuel costsmore here and has since last summer last winter it was 75 cent or more than gas too and when you factor in cost of engine manitainance and fuel you are loosing not saving money. ----------------- that was last year. with the sudden jump is gasoline prices diesel has not caught up and i do not think it will. the average cost of diesel where i am is 3.19 and has stayed that way for a month or more while gasoline is running 3.2x. sorry sucka plus what tom said. the snoman www.thesnoman.com .

From : roy

on fri 26 may 2006 124008 -0400 roy roy@home.net wrote on thu 25 may 2006 180156 -0700 geekboy geekgeek@geeek.com wrote the 5.9 sure can get that much with the 3.54 read end gears. only in your dreams i think hes talking about a cummins 5.9 roy havent seen you posting too much lately. is everything ok after the talk about the floods i just hope they didnt cause you a bunch of damage everything is fine thanks. we managed to stay dry but others werent so lucky. just been busy as hell. roy .

From : js

roy wrote and this post has what value i guess just about the same as all of your others none at all. what value you have to be kidding!! with crap you post you have the balls to question the value of anybodys postgbmfg that would be like me and mac demanding value from dennys attacks on us of course those attacks are unjustified.vbg it is all humor and maxs post was funny.; actually the only fault i can find with maxs post is it took to long to use the whine. hell it has been there for a couple of days. gotta help the oldest kid move so i cant play until later. be gentle. at least tbone can figure out hes discussing a half ton dodge ram hes entirely farther ahead of the game than dorkboy. js .

From : js

tom lawrence wrote summer last winter it was 75 cent or more than gas too and when you factor in cost of engine manitainance and fuel you are loosing not saving money. and how many times do i have to do the math and prove you wrong even at $3.00/gal for gasoline and $3.75/gal for diesel youre looking at 18-20mpg vs 11-13mpg. take the extremes - 13mpg at $3.00/gal vs. 18mpg at $3.75/gal. thats $0.231/mile for gas and $0.208/mile for diesel. lets say it was an extra $5000 for the diesel option. at that rate its a little over 200000 miles to break even... admittedly not that good yet far from a loss. i think the real factor is the vehicle. i drive a 132k mile 1999 dodge ram 1500 when im absolutely forced to. while it offers a comparatively nice quiet ride compared to my friends 96 2500 w/ ctd its quite obviously mechanically *very* tired. for comparison my friends truck has almost 300k hes had it in the shop a few times trans fried a 110k throttle issue around 200k stuck open and a stuck something-another cause it to not stop running one night oh and for comparison he gets $5k+ purchase offers on his truck regularly - and the old-school cummins rattle makes half the ladies in east texas hot. i doubt i could sell mine for much more than weight because nobody wants a used-up gas-sucking half-ton piece-of-shit truck. oh well - itll serve its purpose until i get my hands on a fire truck i need the storage and an 80-100 ft ladder... js .

From : max dodge

apparently the only real rear end whine around here can be found between snoman and tbone. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author summer last winter it was 75 cent or more than gas too and when you factor in cost of engine manitainance and fuel you are loosing not saving money. and how many times do i have to do the math and prove you wrong even at $3.00/gal for gasoline and $3.75/gal for diesel youre looking at 18-20mpg vs 11-13mpg. take the extremes - 13mpg at $3.00/gal vs. 18mpg at $3.75/gal. thats $0.231/mile for gas and $0.208/mile for diesel. lets say it was an extra $5000 for the diesel option. at that rate its a little over 200000 miles to break even... admittedly not that good yet far from a loss. however when diesel prices are a little better for example im paying $2.99/gal right now while my gasoline-burning friends are paying between $2.89 and $3.21 or $0.166/mile. at that rate the cost of the engine is paid for in about 75000 miles - less if you factor in the higher gasoline prices $3.12 for 89 octane at the place that sells diesel for $2.99 here by me. the break-even time for a diesel gets even lower when you look at real-world performance. to get 13mpg from a gas-powered 1-ton truck youve got to really baby it. that same babying would get you 20-21mpg on the diesel engine. the mpg results drop more for a gas-powered pickup when towing a heavy load than they do for the diesel - again enhancing the cost benefit of the diesel engine. on resale a diesel-powered truck will get between $2500 and $3500 more than a comparable gas truck. so you need to factor that into your initial costs the fact that youll make it up on resale. using a figure of $3000 in resale now youve only got to make up $2000 in up-front costs... so 87000 miles using your prices or 30000 miles using my prices. as for the myth about higher maintenance costs... the diesel uses twice as much oil 12qts. vs. 6qts but the drain intervals are twice as long... thats a wash. air filters are a wash. theres a fuel filter that needs changing every 15000 miles or so - at a cost of $12. on the other side the gas engine needs plugs every 30k $30 cap/rotor/wires every 50k $80. the way i see it maintenance of a gas engine is the more expensive of the two. you want to talk about common repairs changing a water pump on a cummins takes about 30 minutes - the same job takes almost three times as long on a gas engine. book time on changing a timing chain... 4 hours maybe 0 on the diesel... everythings gear-driven. how many people with v8s on here have had to have an intake plenum gasket replaced again not an issue on the little i-6. change out a stuck/frozen lifter on a gas engine a few hours worth of work... not needed on a diesel solid lifters and flat tappets. granted you do need to adjust the valve lash every 100k or so... takes about 30 minutes. aside from the financial facts theres the drivability factor. owning both a cummins and a v10-powered 3500 and hauling with both of them theres no way i would ever choose to pull a load with the v10 over the cummins. in fact theres very little i use my v10 for at all these days. the v10 is a little quicker off the line but the cummins eats it for lunch on a rolling acceleration. my 45-80mph times for example in my v10 are twice that of my cummins. hey - i get it... diesels arent your thing. thats fine - but dont take your personal bias and try to apply it to the real-world benefits of burning oil rather than gasoline. your argument simply falls apart under even a bit of scrutiny. .

From : tbone

and this post has what value i guess just about the same as all of your others none at all. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving apparently the only real rear end whine around here can be found between snoman and tbone. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author summer last winter it was 75 cent or more than gas too and when you factor in cost of engine manitainance and fuel you are loosing not saving money. and how many times do i have to do the math and prove you wrong even at $3.00/gal for gasoline and $3.75/gal for diesel youre looking at 18-20mpg vs 11-13mpg. take the extremes - 13mpg at $3.00/gal vs. 18mpg at $3.75/gal. thats $0.231/mile for gas and $0.208/mile for diesel. lets say it was an extra $5000 for the diesel option. at that rate its a little over 200000 miles to break even... admittedly not that good yet far from a loss. however when diesel prices are a little better for example im paying $2.99/gal right now while my gasoline-burning friends are paying between $2.89 and $3.21 or $0.166/mile. at that rate the cost of the engine is paid for in about 75000 miles - less if you factor in the higher gasoline prices $3.12 for 89 octane at the place that sells diesel for $2.99 here by me. the break-even time for a diesel gets even lower when you look at real-world performance. to get 13mpg from a gas-powered 1-ton truck youve got to really baby it. that same babying would get you 20-21mpg on the diesel engine. the mpg results drop more for a gas-powered pickup when towing a heavy load than they do for the diesel - again enhancing the cost benefit of the diesel engine. on resale a diesel-powered truck will get between $2500 and $3500 more than a comparable gas truck. so you need to factor that into your initial costs the fact that youll make it up on resale. using a figure of $3000 in resale now youve only got to make up $2000 in up-front costs... so 87000 miles using your prices or 30000 miles using my prices. as for the myth about higher maintenance costs... the diesel uses twice as much oil 12qts. vs. 6qts but the drain intervals are twice as long... thats a wash. air filters are a wash. theres a fuel filter that needs changing every 15000 miles or so - at a cost of $12. on the other side the gas engine needs plugs every 30k $30 cap/rotor/wires every 50k $80. the way i see it maintenance of a gas engine is the more expensive of the two. you want to talk about common repairs changing a water pump on a cummins takes about 30 minutes - the same job takes almost three times as long on a gas engine. book time on changing a timing chain... 4 hours maybe 0 on the diesel... everythings gear-driven. how many people with v8s on here have had to have an intake plenum gasket replaced again not an issue on the little i-6. change out a stuck/frozen lifter on a gas engine a few hours worth of work... not needed on a diesel solid lifters and flat tappets. granted you do need to adjust the valve lash every 100k or so... takes about 30 minutes. aside from the financial facts theres the drivability factor. owning both a cummins and a v10-powered 3500 and hauling with both of them theres no way i would ever choose to pull a load with the v10 over the cummins. in fact theres very little i use my v10 for at all these days. the v10 is a little quicker off the line but the cummins eats it for lunch on a rolling acceleration. my 45-80mph times for example in my v10 are twice that of my cummins. hey - i get it... diesels arent your thing. thats fine - but dont take your personal bias and try to apply it to the real-world benefits of burning oil rather than gasoline. your argument simply falls apart under even a bit of scrutiny. .

From : roy

and this post has what value i guess just about the same as all of your others none at all. what value you have to be kidding!! with crap you post you have the balls to question the value of anybodys postgbmfg that would be like me and mac demanding value from dennys attacks on us of course those attacks are unjustified.vbg it is all humor and maxs post was funny.; actually the only fault i can find with maxs post is it took to long to use the whine. hell it has been there for a couple of days. gotta help the oldest kid move so i cant play until later. be gentle. roy hope ya find some value in this .

From : max dodge

actually the only fault i can find with maxs post is it took to long to use the whine. hell it has been there for a couple of days. sorry i know im slacking as far as picking up the obvious bits of humor and commenting but i have quite a bit to do and the weather is nice. i get the feeling that even if tbone had both things happening to him hed rather argue about rear ends. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author and this post has what value i guess just about the same as all of your others none at all. what value you have to be kidding!! with crap you post you have the balls to question the value of anybodys postgbmfg that would be like me and mac demanding value from dennys attacks on us of course those attacks are unjustified.vbg it is all humor and maxs post was funny.; actually the only fault i can find with maxs post is it took to long to use the whine. hell it has been there for a couple of days. gotta help the oldest kid move so i cant play until later. be gentle. roy hope ya find some value in this .

From : max dodge

other than a bit of humor the value is in seeing you act like an ass with a reply. predictable. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author and this post has what value i guess just about the same as all of your others none at all. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving apparently the only real rear end whine around here can be found between snoman and tbone. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author summer last winter it was 75 cent or more than gas too and when you factor in cost of engine manitainance and fuel you are loosing not saving money. and how many times do i have to do the math and prove you wrong even at $3.00/gal for gasoline and $3.75/gal for diesel youre looking at 18-20mpg vs 11-13mpg. take the extremes - 13mpg at $3.00/gal vs. 18mpg at $3.75/gal. thats $0.231/mile for gas and $0.208/mile for diesel. lets say it was an extra $5000 for the diesel option. at that rate its a little over 200000 miles to break even... admittedly not that good yet far from a loss. however when diesel prices are a little better for example im paying $2.99/gal right now while my gasoline-burning friends are paying between $2.89 and $3.21 or $0.166/mile. at that rate the cost of the engine is paid for in about 75000 miles - less if you factor in the higher gasoline prices $3.12 for 89 octane at the place that sells diesel for $2.99 here by me. the break-even time for a diesel gets even lower when you look at real-world performance. to get 13mpg from a gas-powered 1-ton truck youve got to really baby it. that same babying would get you 20-21mpg on the diesel engine. the mpg results drop more for a gas-powered pickup when towing a heavy load than they do for the diesel - again enhancing the cost benefit of the diesel engine. on resale a diesel-powered truck will get between $2500 and $3500 more than a comparable gas truck. so you need to factor that into your initial costs the fact that youll make it up on resale. using a figure of $3000 in resale now youve only got to make up $2000 in up-front costs... so 87000 miles using your prices or 30000 miles using my prices. as for the myth about higher maintenance costs... the diesel uses twice as much oil 12qts. vs. 6qts but the drain intervals are twice as long... thats a wash. air filters are a wash. theres a fuel filter that needs changing every 15000 miles or so - at a cost of $12. on the other side the gas engine needs plugs every 30k $30 cap/rotor/wires every 50k $80. the way i see it maintenance of a gas engine is the more expensive of the two. you want to talk about common repairs changing a water pump on a cummins takes about 30 minutes - the same job takes almost three times as long on a gas engine. book time on changing a timing chain... 4 hours maybe 0 on the diesel... everythings gear-driven. how many people with v8s on here have had to have an intake plenum gasket replaced again not an issue on the little i-6. change out a stuck/frozen lifter on a gas engine a few hours worth of work... not needed on a diesel solid lifters and flat tappets. granted you do need to adjust the valve lash every 100k or so... takes about 30 minutes. aside from the financial facts theres the drivability factor. owning both a cummins and a v10-powered 3500 and hauling with both of them theres no way i would ever choose to pull a load with the v10 over the cummins. in fact theres very little i use my v10 for at all these days. the v10 is a little quicker off the line but the cummins eats it for lunch on a rolling acceleration. my 45-80mph times for example in my v10 are twice that of my cummins. hey - i get it... diesels arent your thing. thats fine - but dont take your personal bias and try to apply it to the real-world benefits of burning oil rather than gasoline. your argument simply falls apart under even a bit of scrutiny. .

From : tbone

pretty much like you just did here lol! -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving other than a bit of humor the value is in seeing you act like an ass with a reply. predictable. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author and this post has what value i guess just about the same as all of your others none at all. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving apparently the only real rear end whine around here can be found between snoman and tbone. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author summer last winter it was 75 cent or more than gas too and when you factor in cost of engine manitainance and fuel you are loosing not saving money. and how many times do i have to do the math and prove you wrong even at $3.00/gal for gasoline and $3.75/gal for diesel youre looking at 18-20mpg vs 11-13mpg. take the extremes - 13mpg at $3.00/gal vs. 18mpg at $3.75/gal. thats $0.231/mile for gas and $0.208/mile for diesel. lets say it was an extra $5000 for the diesel option. at that rate its a little over 200000 miles to break even... admittedly not that good yet far from a loss. however when diesel prices are a little better for example im paying $2.99/gal right now while my gasoline-burning friends are paying between $2.89 and $3.21 or $0.166/mile. at that rate the cost of the engine is paid for in about 75000 miles - less if you factor in the higher gasoline prices $3.12 for 89 octane at the place that sells diesel for $2.99 here by me. the break-even time for a diesel gets even lower when you look at real-world performance. to get 13mpg from a gas-powered 1-ton truck youve got to really baby it. that same babying would get you 20-21mpg on the diesel engine. the mpg results drop more for a gas-powered pickup when towing a heavy load than they do for the diesel - again enhancing the cost benefit of the diesel engine. on resale a diesel-powered truck will get between $2500 and $3500 more than a comparable gas truck. so you need to factor that into your initial costs the fact that youll make it up on resale. using a figure of $3000 in resale now youve only got to make up $2000 in up-front costs... so 87000 miles using your prices or 30000 miles using my prices. as for the myth about higher maintenance costs... the diesel uses twice as much oil 12qts. vs. 6qts but the drain intervals are twice as long... thats a wash. air filters are a wash. theres a fuel filter that needs changing every 15000 miles or so - at a cost of $12. on the other side the gas engine needs plugs every 30k $30 cap/rotor/wires every 50k $80. the way i see it maintenance of a gas engine is the more expensive of the two. you want to talk about common repairs changing a water pump on a cummins takes about 30 minutes - the same job takes almost three times as long on a gas engine. book time on changing a timing chain... 4 hours maybe 0 on the diesel... everythings gear-driven. how many people with v8s on here have had to have an intake plenum gasket replaced again not an issue on the little i-6. change out a stuck/frozen lifter on a gas engine a few hours worth of work... not needed on a diesel solid lifters and flat tappets. granted you do need to adjust the valve lash every 100k or so... takes about 30 minutes. aside from the financial facts theres the drivability factor. owning both a cummins and a v10-powered 3500 and hauling with both of them theres no way i would ever choose to pull a load with the v10 over the cummins. in fact theres very little i use my v10 for at all these days. the v10 is a little quicker off the line but the cummins eats it for lunch on a rolling acceleration. my 45-80mph times for example in my v10 are twice that of my cummins. hey - i get it... diesels arent your thing. thats fine - but dont take your personal bias and try to apply it to the real-world benefits of burning oil rather than gasoline. your argument simply falls apart under even a bit of scrutiny. .

From : js

geekboy wrote a gear is a gear if they have the same ratio no matter what size they are. but a chrysler 9.25 is not a dana 70... one is a full-floater the other is a c-clip. one uses shims the other uses preload adjusters... just to name a couple of differences. well my point was that is gears have the same ratio even one maybe the size of the moon and the over the size of a marble they will rotate the wheels at the same rate. dorkboy realize something... youre talking about an engine with a 3200 rpm redline and peak torque somewhere around 2400. 3400 is about the peak torque on a stock gas 360 4000ish is the peak torque on a stock gas 318... both redline somewhere over 5k. if you want to start a gearing penis war - my dodge has 3.211 gears. it also cant and never has been able to climb a reasonably small hill the kind of hill i could climb in a 4 cyl nissan in 5th no problem at 75 mph in 5th. was that combo on your cummins itd probably gain speed going up the hill with the pedal halfway down... well until the nv3500 exploded 5 maybe 10 seconds js .

From : denny

and this post has what value i guess just about the same as all of your others none at all. what value you have to be kidding!! with crap you post you have the balls to question the value of anybodys postgbmfg that would be like me and mac demanding value from dennys attacks on us of course those attacks are unjustified.vbg it is all humor and maxs post was funny.; unjustified my skinny little ass!!! you do remember who the cheapshot champion is here dont you hint....hes a fricken patriot fan that likes to watch cars go in circles and make little puny sized holes in paper. real men shoot .30 cal or larger...bfg denny actually the only fault i can find with maxs post is it took to long to use the whine. hell it has been there for a couple of days. gotta help the oldest kid move so i cant play until later. be gentle. roy hope ya find some value in this .

From : roy

and this post has what value i guess just about the same as all of your others none at all. what value you have to be kidding!! with crap you post you have the balls to question the value of anybodys postgbmfg that would be like me and mac demanding value from dennys attacks on us of course those attacks are unjustified.vbg it is all humor and maxs post was funny.; unjustified my skinny little ass!!! you do remember who the cheapshot champion is here dont you hint....hes a fricken patriot fan that likes to watch cars go in circles and make little puny sized holes in paper. real men shoot .30 cal or larger...bfg denny seems a nerve was touched. oh real men that survive learn to hit and git and dont carry a bunch of heavy stuff like .30 cal.bfg roy actually the only fault i can find with maxs post is it took to long to use the whine. hell it has been there for a couple of days. gotta help the oldest kid move so i cant play until later. be gentle. roy hope ya find some value in this .

From : christopher thompson

on sun 28 may 2006 111415 -0400 roy roy@home.net wrote summer last winter it was 75 cent or more than gas too and when you factor in cost of engine manitainance and fuel you are loosing not saving money. and how many times do i have to do the math and prove you wrong even at $3.00/gal for gasoline and $3.75/gal for diesel youre looking at 18-20mpg vs 11-13mpg. take the extremes - 13mpg at $3.00/gal vs. 18mpg at $3.75/gal. thats $0.231/mile for gas and $0.208/mile for diesel. lets say it was an extra $5000 for the diesel option. at that rate its a little over 200000 miles to break even... admittedly not that good yet far from a loss. however when diesel prices are a little better for example im paying $2.99/gal right now while my gasoline-burning friends are paying between $2.89 and $3.21 or $0.166/mile. at that rate the cost of the engine is paid for in about 75000 miles - less if you factor in the higher gasoline prices $3.12 for 89 octane at the place that sells diesel for $2.99 here by me. the break-even time for a diesel gets even lower when you look at real-world performance. to get 13mpg from a gas-powered 1-ton truck youve got to really baby it. that same babying would get you 20-21mpg on the diesel engine. the mpg results drop more for a gas-powered pickup when towing a heavy load than they do for the diesel - again enhancing the cost benefit of the diesel engine. on resale a diesel-powered truck will get between $2500 and $3500 more than a comparable gas truck. so you need to factor that into your initial costs the fact that youll make it up on resale. using a figure of $3000 in resale now youve only got to make up $2000 in up-front costs... so 87000 miles using your prices or 30000 miles using my prices. as for the myth about higher maintenance costs... the diesel uses twice as much oil 12qts. vs. 6qts but the drain intervals are twice as long... thats a wash. air filters are a wash. theres a fuel filter that needs changing every 15000 miles or so - at a cost of $12. on the other side the gas engine needs plugs every 30k $30 cap/rotor/wires every 50k $80. the way i see it maintenance of a gas engine is the more expensive of the two. you want to talk about common repairs changing a water pump on a cummins takes about 30 minutes - the same job takes almost three times as long on a gas engine. book time on changing a timing chain... 4 hours maybe 0 on the diesel... everythings gear-driven. how many people with v8s on here have had to have an intake plenum gasket replaced again not an issue on the little i-6. change out a stuck/frozen lifter on a gas engine a few hours worth of work... not needed on a diesel solid lifters and flat tappets. granted you do need to adjust the valve lash every 100k or so... takes about 30 minutes. aside from the financial facts theres the drivability factor. owning both a cummins and a v10-powered 3500 and hauling with both of them theres no way i would ever choose to pull a load with the v10 over the cummins. in fact theres very little i use my v10 for at all these days. the v10 is a little quicker off the line but the cummins eats it for lunch on a rolling acceleration. my 45-80mph times for example in my v10 are twice that of my cummins. hey - i get it... diesels arent your thing. thats fine - but dont take your personal bias and try to apply it to the real-world benefits of burning oil rather than gasoline. your argument simply falls apart under even a bit of scrutiny. tom if you arent driving a friggin suburban and throwing oil all over the undercarriage you are not with the program. i guess you gotta do the same with the sheet metal so it wont rust too. gotta be kinda messy though. you hit on it though. some people just dont like a diesel. rather than just say so and be done with it they babble on about how expensive they are. but saying it and proving it are two different things. it is that simple likes and dislikes. ive said before if it were not for the cummins i probably would not be in a dodge. roy and if diesel is such a bad option why did honda just announce the huge investment they are making in a 4 and 6 cyl diesel for thier cars and trucks in the future. funny why honda said in their announcement that they saw diesel as playing a huge role in the engines of the future. i guess honda doesnt know what they are doing either. they should have saved their time and energy and just asked tbone. yea really.... my friends that drive the powerjokes still dont believe the mpg figures that im getting. one guy lives 4 houses down and says hes getting 13 out of his at best. calls me a liar flat out of course i just grin and say buy a cummins someday and find out for your self i also know the people that just dont like a diesel and wouldnt be caught dead near one. but they cant figure out why my 3/4 to

From : tbone

either you guys buying these new $45000 diesel-duallys make a hellouva lot more money than i do or your wife works or youve won a small lottery somewhere. tell me how you swing a $6$700 or higher if you were upside-down on your trade-in truck note and still manage to eat are you maybe living in a rented dubl-wahyd in hawbuck someplace four or five guys all go in together on the note still sponging off mom & dad tell me your secret please because i want one of these too. - avoid the use of charge cards! use one in an emergency only then pay it off. hell no use them for everything and pick one that does something that you want or need like cash back or ff miles and then zero balance them every month so you dont pay any interest. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : roy

either you guys buying these new $45000 diesel-duallys make a hellouva lot more money than i do or your wife works or youve won a small lottery somewhere. tell me how you swing a $6$700 or higher if you were upside-down on your trade-in truck note and still manage to eat are you maybe living in a rented dubl-wahyd in hawbuck someplace four or five guys all go in together on the note still sponging off mom & dad tell me your secret please because i want one of these too. - avoid the use of charge cards! use one in an emergency only then pay it off. roy lawrence tnloaswpraemnmcien5g@earthlink.net writes summer last winter it was 75 cent or more than gas too and when you factor in cost of engine manitainance and fuel you are loosing not saving money. and how many times do i have to do the math and prove you wrong even at $3.00/gal for gasoline and $3.75/gal for diesel youre looking at 18-20mpg vs 11-13mpg. take the extremes - 13mpg at $3.00/gal vs. 18mpg at $3.75/gal. thats $0.231/mile for gas and $0.208/mile for diesel. lets say it was an extra $5000 for the diesel option. at that rate its a little over 200000 miles to break even... admittedly not that good yet far from a loss. however when diesel prices are a little better for example im paying $2.99/gal right now while my gasoline-burning friends are paying between $2.89 and $3.21 or $0.166/mile. at that rate the cost of the engine is paid for in about 75000 miles - less if you factor in the higher gasoline prices $3.12 for 89 octane at the place that sells diesel for $2.99 here by me. the break-even time for a diesel gets even lower when you look at real-world performance. to get 13mpg from a gas-powered 1-ton truck youve got to really baby it. that same babying would get you 20-21mpg on the diesel engine. the mpg results drop more for a gas-powered pickup when towing a heavy load than they do for the diesel - again enhancing the cost benefit of the diesel engine. on resale a diesel-powered truck will get between $2500 and $3500 more than a comparable gas truck. so you need to factor that into your initial costs the fact that youll make it up on resale. using a figure of $3000 in resale now youve only got to make up $2000 in up-front costs... so 87000 miles using your prices or 30000 miles using my prices. as for the myth about higher maintenance costs... the diesel uses twice as much oil 12qts. vs. 6qts but the drain intervals are twice as long... thats a wash. air filters are a wash. theres a fuel filter that needs changing every 15000 miles or so - at a cost of $12. on the other side the gas engine needs plugs every 30k $30 cap/rotor/wires every 50k $80. the way i see it maintenance of a gas engine is the more expensive of the two. you want to talk about common repairs changing a water pump on a cummins takes about 30 minutes - the same job takes almost three times as long on a gas engine. book time on changing a timing chain... 4 hours maybe 0 on the diesel... everythings gear-driven. how many people with v8s on here have had to have an intake plenum gasket replaced again not an issue on the little i-6. change out a stuck/frozen lifter on a gas engine a few hours worth of work... not needed on a diesel solid lifters and flat tappets. granted you do need to adjust the valve lash every 100k or so... takes about 30 minutes. aside from the financial facts theres the drivability factor. owning both a cummins and a v10-powered 3500 and hauling with both of them theres no way i would ever choose to pull a load with the v10 over the cummins. in fact theres very little i use my v10 for at all these days. the v10 is a little quicker off the line but the cummins eats it for lunch on a rolling acceleration. my 45-80mph times for example in my v10 are twice that of my cummins. hey - i get it... diesels arent your thing. thats fine - but dont take your personal bias and try to apply it to the real-world benefits of burning oil rather than gasoline. your argument simply falls apart under even a bit of scrutiny. .

From : christopher thompson

either you guys buying these new $45000 diesel-duallys make a hellouva lot more money than i do or your wife works or youve won a small lottery somewhere. tell me how you swing a $6$700 or higher if you were upside-down on your trade-in truck note and still manage to eat are you maybe living in a rented dubl-wahyd in hawbuck someplace four or five guys all go in together on the note still sponging off mom & dad tell me your secret please because i want one of these too. - avoid the use of charge cards! use one in an emergency only then pay it off. roy whats a charge/credit card never heard of such an animal..... bg -- -chris 05 ctd 06 liberty crd lawrence tnloaswpraemnmcien5g@earthlink.net writes summer last winter it was 75 cent or more than gas too and when you factor in cost of engine manitainance and fuel you are loosing not saving money. and how many times do i have to do the math and prove you wrong even at $3.00/gal for gasoline and $3.75/gal for diesel youre looking at 18-20mpg vs 11-13mpg. take the extremes - 13mpg at $3.00/gal vs. 18mpg at $3.75/gal. thats $0.231/mile for gas and $0.208/mile for diesel. lets say it was an extra $5000 for the diesel option. at that rate its a little over 200000 miles to break even... admittedly not that good yet far from a loss. however when diesel prices are a little better for example im paying $2.99/gal right now while my gasoline-burning friends are paying between $2.89 and $3.21 or $0.166/mile. at that rate the cost of the engine is paid for in about 75000 miles - less if you factor in the higher gasoline prices $3.12 for 89 octane at the place that sells diesel for $2.99 here by me. the break-even time for a diesel gets even lower when you look at real-world performance. to get 13mpg from a gas-powered 1-ton truck youve got to really baby it. that same babying would get you 20-21mpg on the diesel engine. the mpg results drop more for a gas-powered pickup when towing a heavy load than they do for the diesel - again enhancing the cost benefit of the diesel engine. on resale a diesel-powered truck will get between $2500 and $3500 more than a comparable gas truck. so you need to factor that into your initial costs the fact that youll make it up on resale. using a figure of $3000 in resale now youve only got to make up $2000 in up-front costs... so 87000 miles using your prices or 30000 miles using my prices. as for the myth about higher maintenance costs... the diesel uses twice as much oil 12qts. vs. 6qts but the drain intervals are twice as long... thats a wash. air filters are a wash. theres a fuel filter that needs changing every 15000 miles or so - at a cost of $12. on the other side the gas engine needs plugs every 30k $30 cap/rotor/wires every 50k $80. the way i see it maintenance of a gas engine is the more expensive of the two. you want to talk about common repairs changing a water pump on a cummins takes about 30 minutes - the same job takes almost three times as long on a gas engine. book time on changing a timing chain... 4 hours maybe 0 on the diesel... everythings gear-driven. how many people with v8s on here have had to have an intake plenum gasket replaced again not an issue on the little i-6. change out a stuck/frozen lifter on a gas engine a few hours worth of work... not needed on a diesel solid lifters and flat tappets. granted you do need to adjust the valve lash every 100k or so... takes about 30 minutes. aside from the financial facts theres the drivability factor. owning both a cummins and a v10-powered 3500 and hauling with both of them theres no way i would ever choose to pull a load with the v10 over the cummins. in fact theres very little i use my v10 for at all these days. the v10 is a little quicker off the line but the cummins eats it for lunch on a rolling acceleration. my 45-80mph times for example in my v10 are twice that of my cummins. hey - i get it... diesels arent your thing. thats fine - but dont take your personal bias and try to apply it to the real-world benefits of burning oil rather than gasoline. your argument simply falls apart under even a bit of scrutiny. .

From : tbone

-- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving on fri 26 may 2006 091952 -0700 geekboy geekgeek@geeek.com wrote w you mean living the lie. no gas 360 will do that and a ctd might come close to that some time but the fuel costsmore here and has since last summer last winter it was 75 cent or more than gas too and when you factor in cost of engine manitainance and fuel you are loosing not saving money. ----------------- that was last year. with the sudden jump is gasoline prices diesel has not caught up and i do not think it will. the average cost of diesel where i am is 3.19 and has stayed that way for a month or more while gasoline is running 3.2x. lol get real that is area specific. here in nc the price of gas has dropped to around $2.65 regular while diesel has held at $2.89 and this is the summer when diesel is at its cheapest and gas is approaching its highest price. curious how much is diesel im going through there on the way to fl and am trying to figure fuel stops. diesel is all over the place around here. the local station by me is $2.89 but that would be a bit out of your way going to florida. when i used to make the trip back abd forth between here and nj i used to get off of 95 at exit 61b in virginia there are 3 or 4 stations right next to each other and the price was pretty good better than the local price here in nc. sorry sucka how old are you 16 plus what tom said. while tom makes a dam good argument there is no free lunch. as more people go to diesel the regulations on them are going to increase significantly and as for cost the added weight will cause increased wear on drive train and suspension components and the cost to repair just about anything on a diesel is significantly more than on gas engine. he mentioned the intake plenum gasket repair but failed to mention the cost of a diesel injector pump which can and do fail every now and then. probably because the pump is warrantied for 100k. failure of the ip has about gone away since the lift pump failure has been corrected. roy -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : yencpost

your mother-in-law is hanging off the back screaming. .

From : tbone

on sun 28 may 2006 111415 -0400 roy roy@home.net wrote summer last winter it was 75 cent or more than gas too and when you factor in cost of engine manitainance and fuel you are loosing not saving money. and how many times do i have to do the math and prove you wrong even at $3.00/gal for gasoline and $3.75/gal for diesel youre looking at 18-20mpg vs 11-13mpg. take the extremes - 13mpg at $3.00/gal vs. 18mpg at $3.75/gal. thats $0.231/mile for gas and $0.208/mile for diesel. lets say it was an extra $5000 for the diesel option. at that rate its a little over 200000 miles to break even... admittedly not that good yet far from a loss. however when diesel prices are a little better for example im paying $2.99/gal right now while my gasoline-burning friends are paying between $2.89 and $3.21 or $0.166/mile. at that rate the cost of the engine is paid for in about 75000 miles - less if you factor in the higher gasoline prices $3.12 for 89 octane at the place that sells diesel for $2.99 here by me. the break-even time for a diesel gets even lower when you look at real-world performance. to get 13mpg from a gas-powered 1-ton truck youve got to really baby it. that same babying would get you 20-21mpg on the diesel engine. the mpg results drop more for a gas-powered pickup when towing a heavy load than they do for the diesel - again enhancing the cost benefit of the diesel engine. on resale a diesel-powered truck will get between $2500 and $3500 more than a comparable gas truck. so you need to factor that into your initial costs the fact that youll make it up on resale. using a figure of $3000 in resale now youve only got to make up $2000 in up-front costs... so 87000 miles using your prices or 30000 miles using my prices. as for the myth about higher maintenance costs... the diesel uses twice as much oil 12qts. vs. 6qts but the drain intervals are twice as long... thats a wash. air filters are a wash. theres a fuel filter that needs changing every 15000 miles or so - at a cost of $12. on the other side the gas engine needs plugs every 30k $30 cap/rotor/wires every 50k $80. the way i see it maintenance of a gas engine is the more expensive of the two. you want to talk about common repairs changing a water pump on a cummins takes about 30 minutes - the same job takes almost three times as long on a gas engine. book time on changing a timing chain... 4 hours maybe 0 on the diesel... everythings gear-driven. how many people with v8s on here have had to have an intake plenum gasket replaced again not an issue on the little i-6. change out a stuck/frozen lifter on a gas engine a few hours worth of work... not needed on a diesel solid lifters and flat tappets. granted you do need to adjust the valve lash every 100k or so... takes about 30 minutes. aside from the financial facts theres the drivability factor. owning both a cummins and a v10-powered 3500 and hauling with both of them theres no way i would ever choose to pull a load with the v10 over the cummins. in fact theres very little i use my v10 for at all these days. the v10 is a little quicker off the line but the cummins eats it for lunch on a rolling acceleration. my 45-80mph times for example in my v10 are twice that of my cummins. hey - i get it... diesels arent your thing. thats fine - but dont take your personal bias and try to apply it to the real-world benefits of burning oil rather than gasoline. your argument simply falls apart under even a bit of scrutiny. tom if you arent driving a friggin suburban and throwing oil all over the undercarriage you are not with the program. i guess you gotta do the same with the sheet metal so it wont rust too. gotta be kinda messy though. you hit on it though. some people just dont like a diesel. rather than just say so and be done with it they babble on about how expensive they are. but saying it and proving it are two different things. it is that simple likes and dislikes. ive said before if it were not for the cummins i probably would not be in a dodge. roy and if diesel is such a bad option why did honda just announce the huge investment they are making in a 4 and 6 cyl diesel for thier cars and trucks in the future. funny why honda said in their announcement that they saw diesel as playing a huge role in the engines of the future. i guess honda doesnt know what they are doing either. they should have saved their time and energy and just asked tbone. damn right its about time someone realized my genius! gbmfg .

From : christopher thompson

-- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving on fri 26 may 2006 091952 -0700 geekboy geekgeek@geeek.com wrote w you mean living the lie. no gas 360 will do that and a ctd might come close to that some time but the fuel costsmore here and has since last summer last winter it was 75 cent or more than gas too and when you factor in cost of engine manitainance and fuel you are loosing not saving money. ----------------- that was last year. with the sudden jump is gasoline prices diesel has not caught up and i do not think it will. the average cost of diesel where i am is 3.19 and has stayed that way for a month or more while gasoline is running 3.2x. lol get real that is area specific. here in nc the price of gas has dropped to around $2.65 regular while diesel has held at $2.89 and this is the summer when diesel is at its cheapest and gas is approaching its highest price. curious how much is diesel im going through there on the way to fl and am trying to figure fuel stops. diesel is all over the place around here. the local station by me is $2.89 but that would be a bit out of your way going to florida. when i used to make the trip back abd forth between here and nj i used to get off of 95 at exit 61b in virginia there are 3 or 4 stations right next to each other and the price was pretty good better than the local price here in nc. last fuel stop i made on the way to work it was 2.69 here in middle ga and theres lots of diesel all over the state. -- -chris 05 ctd 06 liberty crd sorry sucka how old are you 16 plus what tom said. while tom makes a dam good argument there is no free lunch. as more people go to diesel the regulations on them are going to increase significantly and as for cost the added weight will cause increased wear on drive train and suspension components and the cost to repair just about anything on a diesel is significantly more than on gas engine. he mentioned the intake plenum gasket repair but failed to mention the cost of a diesel injector pump which can and do fail every now and then. probably because the pump is warrantied for 100k. failure of the ip has about gone away since the lift pump failure has been corrected. roy -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : Annonymous

christopher thompson wrote i dunno like i said it was a email that was passed to me from the ham radio group. im guessing its a noaa or weather channel product. ill have them clarify further as to whats meant by product. but usually the information i get through them is all from reputable sorces. i have been semi inactive in ham for several years but still keep in contact with them. you have to remember that noaa doesnt operate in the interest of the us citizens anymore. its operating in the interest of broadcasters who then in turn make profits selling advertising you the weather report that you paid for with your tax dollars. anything noaa gives you at this point is from the kindness of their hearts... theyre under no obligation to give anybody anything - but youre obligated to continue paying your taxes. js .

From : christopher thompson

thompson kf4drr-nospam@alltel.net writes i work for a living. thats how i do it. and no i dont live in a trailer....i live in a quite nice house brick at that. and except for the trucks and naturally the house everything i own is paid for. i work for a living too. my agi last year was a tad over $70k. no not setting the world on fire but not too bad either. wife doesnt work outside the home but all the kids are grown and gone. we do have one still in college which does at time put a strain on the budget. we do not carry any month-to-month balance on any of our credit cards. everything is fully paid for except the house. even there our house note is comparatively small at $820/mo including taxes & insurance. we have a credit score of 805. we of course can qualify for a new truck note at the best interest rates available credit score 805 = tier-one credit worthiness. the problem is i dont want to have to wind up living hand-to-mouth or paycheck to paycheck with no discretionary money left over just because were slaves to a freakin truck payment. ive not had a vehicle payment in the last 6 years so ive been out of the market for a while. when the dickens did the 3/4 and 1-ton ctd start fetching prices of $4045 thousand jesus christ! that was the problem with me getting my truck. i got my truck fairly reasonable around 25k i believe it was. when i went into the dodge dealer i had a set of 5 cryteria that i was looking for and told them so. also told them that anything above and beyond these cryteria was simply luxury and i wasnt willing to pay an arm and a leg to get the luxury part. something that is apparanty out of the sales staffs vocabulary. i wanted a 05 ctd 1 ton perferred but 3/4 would work as the 99 3/4 had done the job well. 2wd lsd crew cab 8 box well needless to say they zeroed in on the 1 ton and kept bringing these $45k+ laramies out. granted nice trucks.... but what i was gonna use them for i just couldnt see paying that price. so again i repeated the list. they said ok and pulled another overpriced truck around. after threatening to leave and go to another dealer they somehow figured out how to understand english again and found a 05 3/4 ctd 6speed 2wd lsd qc lwb truck with st trim at the above price. dont let them fool you into believing that inorder to have the ctd you have to pay the outragous prices they have on some. they do still make trucks meant to work out of. but you give up the xm leather power everythng carpet bells and wistles that blow when you change lanes and what ever else they are putting in these things now. well anyways that was my experiance getting a reasonably priced truck. good luck in your hunt. -- -chris 05 ctd 06 liberty crd .

From : Annonymous

thompson kf4drr-nospam@alltel.net writes well needless to say they zeroed in on the 1 ton and kept bringing these $45k+ laramies out. granted nice trucks.... but what i was gonna use them for i just couldnt see paying that price. so again i repeated the list. they said ok and pulled another overpriced truck around. after threatening to leave and go to another dealer they somehow figured out how to understand english again and found a 05 3/4 ctd 6speed 2wd lsd qc lwb truck with st trim at the above price. dont let them fool you into believing that inorder to have the ctd you have to pay the outragous prices they have on some. they do still make trucks meant to work out of. but you give up the xm leather power everythng carpet bells and wistles that blow when you change lanes and what ever else they are putting in these things now. well anyways that was my experiance getting a reasonably priced truck. good luck in your hunt. thanks chris. at $4045k i can buy a fully dressed out lexus es. but i want a truck and i dont want to settle for something stripped-down with a cardboard interior manual-crank windows rubber floor mat and a stick-shift. when we started pricing these the shocker was the *huge* price jump between the 1500 qc and an *equally-equipped* 2500 qc before adding the ctd. judas priest!!! i dont need leather seats or the nav package or mega-cab but qc ctd and a decent freakin radio is a requirement and i can accept the price bump for the engine. the 8 box would be nice but also isnt mandatory unless i get the dually. the dually wasnt a must-have either but taken by itself its only a couple grand more than srw so thats actually one of the more reasonable options. okay ctd $5500 drw + 8 box $2200; how did that get us to $42790 + ttl i have the chryco preferred pricing deal through my employer where i can buy anything on the lot for 1% -below- invoice but even the invoice numbers seem to be a moving target and depend on who you ask. go to kelly blue book and price it out go to consumer reports pricing service and get a close similar not exact number but then go into the dealer and suddenly my highest invoice figures are $7800 below theirs. whats wrong with this picture .

From : christopher thompson

thompson kf4drr-nospam@alltel.net writes well needless to say they zeroed in on the 1 ton and kept bringing these $45k+ laramies out. granted nice trucks.... but what i was gonna use them for i just couldnt see paying that price. so again i repeated the list. they said ok and pulled another overpriced truck around. after threatening to leave and go to another dealer they somehow figured out how to understand english again and found a 05 3/4 ctd 6speed 2wd lsd qc lwb truck with st trim at the above price. dont let them fool you into believing that inorder to have the ctd you have to pay the outragous prices they have on some. they do still make trucks meant to work out of. but you give up the xm leather power everythng carpet bells and wistles that blow when you change lanes and what ever else they are putting in these things now. well anyways that was my experiance getting a reasonably priced truck. good luck in your hunt. thanks chris. at $4045k i can buy a fully dressed out lexus es. but i want a truck and i dont want to settle for something stripped-down with a cardboard interior manual-crank windows rubber floor mat and a stick-shift. when we started pricing these the shocker was the *huge* price jump between the 1500 qc and an *equally-equipped* 2500 qc before adding the ctd. judas priest!!! i dont need leather seats or the nav package or mega-cab but qc ctd and a decent freakin radio is a requirement and i can accept the price bump for the engine. the 8 box would be nice but also isnt mandatory unless i get the dually. the dually wasnt a must-have either but taken by itself its only a couple grand more than srw so thats actually one of the more reasonable options. okay ctd $5500 drw + 8 box $2200; how did that get us to $42790 + ttl i have the chryco preferred pricing deal through my employer where i can buy anything on the lot for 1% -below- invoice but even the invoice numbers seem to be a moving target and depend on who you ask. go to kelly blue book and price it out go to consumer reports pricing service and get a close similar not exact number but then go into the dealer and suddenly my highest invoice figures are $7800 below theirs. whats wrong with this picture you may be able to go to the dodge website and build a truck with the options you want and get a general idea of what your gonna pay for it. then keep that in mind when you talk to the dealer most likely they are not gonna have the exact truck you built but can find/get something close. with me even the radio was optional. what i wound up with of course was radio cloth seats vinyl floor witch i really wanted but wasnt insistant on. the dealers around here seem to want to go from a stripped work truck to a fully dressed larmie in the ctds when they have a much larger variety if trim levels in the 1500. you can get that larger varity in the bigger trucks you just have to be insistant on what you want. believe me for the price diff it was well worth the hassel of getting them to understand english! sounds to me like you want a little more than i did. stuff like the convince group and power group but i dont think those options alone are an arm and a leg more. like i said go to the dodge website and play around you can figure out what options out price them selves and what you need/want really quickly. heck you and even print off the info on the truck you selected and take it right to the dealer and show them exactly what your looking for. it was a really helpful tool for us. -- -chris 05 ctd 06 liberty crd real trucks dont need spark plugs .

From : denny

and this post has what value i guess just about the same as all of your others none at all. what value you have to be kidding!! with crap you post you have the balls to question the value of anybodys postgbmfg that would be like me and mac demanding value from dennys attacks on us of course those attacks are unjustified.vbg it is all humor and maxs post was funny.; unjustified my skinny little ass!!! you do remember who the cheapshot champion is here dont you hint....hes a fricken patriot fan that likes to watch cars go in circles and make little puny sized holes in paper. real men shoot .30 cal or larger...bfg denny seems a nerve was touched. oh real men that survive learn to hit and git and dont carry a bunch of heavy stuff like .30 cal.bfg roy i didnt realized that hit and git was a priority when punching holes in paper. i need to readjust my tactics so i dont git a papercut. bfg about the only thing that i can think of thatd be better than the kick of a 8mm mauser might be a garand but i just dont have the pennys for one of them yet. denny .

From : denny

tom lawrence wrote summer last winter it was 75 cent or more than gas too and when you factor in cost of engine manitainance and fuel you are loosing not saving money. and how many times do i have to do the math and prove you wrong even at $3.00/gal for gasoline and $3.75/gal for diesel youre looking at 18-20mpg vs 11-13mpg. take the extremes - 13mpg at $3.00/gal vs. 18mpg at $3.75/gal. thats $0.231/mile for gas and $0.208/mile for diesel. lets say it was an extra $5000 for the diesel option. at that rate its a little over 200000 miles to break even... admittedly not that good yet far from a loss. i think the real factor is the vehicle. i drive a 132k mile 1999 dodge ram 1500 when im absolutely forced to. while it offers a comparatively nice quiet ride compared to my friends 96 2500 w/ ctd its quite obviously mechanically *very* tired. for comparison my friends truck has almost 300k hes had it in the shop a few times trans fried a 110k throttle issue around 200k stuck open and a stuck something-another cause it to not stop running one night oh and for comparison he gets $5k+ purchase offers on his truck regularly - and the old-school cummins rattle makes half the ladies in east texas hot. your ladies down there in east texas are heavy duty enough that they need a cummins to haul their fat ass around bfg damn ole roy will be checking out texas instead of fla.. denny .

From : roy

thompson kf4drr-nospam@alltel.net writes well needless to say they zeroed in on the 1 ton and kept bringing these $45k+ laramies out. granted nice trucks.... but what i was gonna use them for i just couldnt see paying that price. so again i repeated the list. they said ok and pulled another overpriced truck around. after threatening to leave and go to another dealer they somehow figured out how to understand english again and found a 05 3/4 ctd 6speed 2wd lsd qc lwb truck with st trim at the above price. dont let them fool you into believing that inorder to have the ctd you have to pay the outragous prices they have on some. they do still make trucks meant to work out of. but you give up the xm leather power everythng carpet bells and wistles that blow when you change lanes and what ever else they are putting in these things now. well anyways that was my experiance getting a reasonably priced truck. good luck in your hunt. thanks chris. at $4045k i can buy a fully dressed out lexus es. but i want a truck and i dont want to settle for something stripped-down with a cardboard interior manual-crank windows rubber floor mat and a stick-shift. when we started pricing these the shocker was the *huge* price jump between the 1500 qc and an *equally-equipped* 2500 qc before adding the ctd. judas priest!!! i dont need leather seats or the nav package or mega-cab but qc ctd and a decent freakin radio is a requirement and i can accept the price bump for the engine. the 8 box would be nice but also isnt mandatory unless i get the dually. the dually wasnt a must-have either but taken by itself its only a couple grand more than srw so thats actually one of the more reasonable options. okay ctd $5500 drw + 8 box $2200; how did that get us to $42790 + ttl i have the chryco preferred pricing deal through my employer where i can buy anything on the lot for 1% -below- invoice but even the invoice numbers seem to be a moving target and depend on who you ask. go to kelly blue book and price it out go to consumer reports pricing service and get a close similar not exact number but then go into the dealer and suddenly my highest invoice figures are $7800 below theirs. whats wrong with this picture i can give a 05 price on my truck. 2500 slt ctd qc short box 4x4 most of the toys no leather or sexy factory radio. list was $42k paid iirc $33k roy .

From : Annonymous

roy@home.net writes i can give a 05 price on my truck. 2500 slt ctd qc short box 4x4 most of the toys no leather or sexy factory radio. list was $42k paid iirc $33k thanks roy. low 30s and an end of the model year was exactly what we had in mind. at the time i was looking there were still a few 05s left but all but 1 were dressed to the 9s and the one that wasnt was a std cab white 2500 lb that was just too generic. .