truck-trans-dodge
truck-logo-dodge
Search Messages :  

rear drum on dakota

From : kilmister

Q: my abs light is coming on. what could be causing this it only comes on once in a while and only 2 or 3 times then dosest do it anymore. would this indicate rear brakes need changing 1997 1500 ram. abs brakes in rear only. thanks tim .

Replies:

From : denny

looking at a new dodge ram diesel -- about 40000 list. dealer will go 3% below invoice to about 33000. anyone else purchased a 2005 -- price paid .

From : budd cochran

i would put some skiny 17+ tires/rims on there for winter to clear brakes. you dont want to be changing tires on those 20 rims back and forth every season do you. for snow the narrower the better. i live in snow country & my 31s on dakota suck in the snow. as winter approches im looking at the oe tires on my 04 1500 with 20 wheels and wonder if there are any options out there for tires that will fit these rims that are more suited for snow/off road. id like to go bigger if i can...any ideas .

From : twix

aha!!! i knew there had to be evil magic afoot!!! lol thanks tom. i probably should have guessed how they worked but i never could figure it out . . . fer some dumb reason. budd ok i gotta ask and demonstrate a lack of knowledge but how the heck do those things work theyre designed to twist at a certain torque like a torsion bar. an impact gun only rotates a fastener a few degrees per impact. when the hammer in the impact wrench strikes it twists up the torque stick and before the next blow is delivered the torque stick unwinds - ready to be wound up again on the next strike. .

From : tom lawrence

i used to own a buick. those studs would strip out if you looked at them crosseyed... im not using the impact gun anymore to put these nuts on not tight anyway. unless you were using the impact gun to start the lugnuts thereby cross-threading them or unless you have an exceedingly powerful impact gun a 3/4 or 1 gun with a 175psi air supply to run it its doubtful that the use of the impact gun caused the stud to strip. regardless its always a good practice to use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts says the guy who always tightens his with his impact gun... ah well .

From : kilmister

ok i gotta ask and demonstrate a lack of knowledge but how the heck do those things work theyre designed to twist at a certain torque like a torsion bar. an impact gun only rotates a fastener a few degrees per impact. when the hammer in the impact wrench strikes it twists up the torque stick and before the next blow is delivered the torque stick unwinds - ready to be wound up again on the next strike. .

From : kilmister

its a 1989 1/2 ton when i lock my front end and i engage it in 4x the dash light will go on and off when i start driving. but only after i hit about 30 km/hr. it will re-engage but you hear a knocking noise. but if i unlock my front hubs the light will not go off in the dash and i can go as fast as the cops will let me go and there is no noise coming from the front. i was talking to someone else and would it be possible that i would have water in my lines hope this helps you answer my question if you need anything else just let me know. thanks alot mike by the way if i unlock the hubs it will not disengage in the dash. youre going to have to try explaining that one again - that made no sense to me... and it would help to know the year of your truck. my first guess the above confusion aside is that you do indeed have a vacuum leak somewhere exacerbated enough by the cold weather to where it creates this problem. does your heat if set to blow out the dash vents switch to the defrost vents under hard acceleration if so thats a sure sign of a more centralized vacuum leak ie. upstream from the check valve if present on the line going to the transfer case. if its important to have a reliable 4wd operation and most of the time it is id replace the vacuum system in favor of a mechanical control like the 4x4 posi-lok system. its easy to install and works well. you can find it at various places on-line or at jc whitney. .

From : budd cochran

thanks for the help guys well see how far i get tomorrow. ive had no difficulties removing a stripped stud on the rear wheel of a 94 dakota. i hammered out the old one inserted the new stud and used some oversized nuts as spacers so i could fully draw it in before remounting the wheel. bruce .

From : bruce yelen

ok i gotta ask and demonstrate a lack of knowledge but how the heck do those things work budd regardless its always a good practice to use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts says the guy who always tightens his with his impact gun... ah well hey tom torque sticks work wonders...... i know some guys in here dont like them but i think they work great.. denny .

From : tom lawrence

freeze plugs were not designed and installed to fall out if you engine coolant froze it just happened to work out that way. they are actually core plugs to plug openings needed when they cast the engine block/ cylinder heads. james .

From : lorne guess noguess net

going to drill out the stud. when removing the drum do the studs stay on the wheel axis or come off with the drum the studs stay on the axle flange. you dont have to drill it -the stud can be pressed out with either a stud removal tool or an improvised stud removal tool hammer. now... you may be able to remove the stud and install a new one without removing the axle might have to remove the brake shoes or you may have to remove the axle. i cant tell you for sure. if you have to remove the axle its easy to do but messy. remove the diff cover have a pan to catch the oil rotate the differential so you can remove the cross-shaft retaining pin little 5/16 bolt on the right-side of the diff then remove the cross-shaft 3/4 or so pin that goes through the center of the diff. next push the axle shaft in slightly and remove the c-clip from the axle inside the differential - this is why you have to remove the cross-shaft. now you can carefully slide the axle out of the housing and fix the stud. when you put the axle back in be careful not to damage the seal on the outer end of the axle tube. push the axle in all the way put the c-clip back in the groove and pull the axle out it should move about 1/2 or so to seat the c-clip. then re-install the cross-shaft re-install the retaining pin clean off