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not running good

From : 600 xcr john smith com

Q: yeah the 4.7 would lose. i think motor trend got a 16.9 or 16.8 out of a 2002 reg. cab 4x4 w/ the 4.7. they started putting their 0-60 1/4 etc. stats in the back of their mag again. check the current issue. anyway i have heard everything from a 14.8 to a 16.5 in the 1/4 mile for reg. cab 2wd hemis. i would imagine a good driver under good conditions could get one in the mid to high 15s. not sure about a 4.7 2wd reg cab. but i guess a second slower that is getting whooped in s drag race... bubkat05 wrote how well would the 4.7 do .


From : tom lawrence

timing. i am not a dodge expert but on chevrolets there is a white wire behind the distributor that you must unplug when setting the timing. unplugging said wire disables the automatic timing control from the computer. yeah dodges are a little different. if you want to make sure the distributor wasnt moved roll the engine to tdc #1 compression rotate the crank pulley clockwise when looking from the front until air is felt coming out of the #1 spark plug hole. then continue to rotate until the tdc mark on the cover is aligned with the notch in the damper. pull the distributor cap and the rotor should be pointing to the #1 terminal. the tip of the rotor should also be aligned with the notch in the base. if this is so the distributor is correct. if not loosen the hold-down clamp and rotate the base until the notch lines up with the rotor tip. re-secure the clamp and put the cap back on. you cant check timing with a light becuase theres no way to disable the advance. its done in the pcm as a function of several inputs. .

From : 600 xcr john smith com

.. re drivetran ignorance caused it. gibson6string.. ..... anon way to add something useful to the discussion. ........ i added more to the topic of discussion than you did dweeb. the guy asked for opinions on what caused it. i gave him an opinion. you gave off topic insults. carry your uninformative ass to.... and post your spew there. or hang around in this one and contribute in a productive way instead of showing your ass and not answering the questions or contributing to the topic of the thread... now i have to give another opinion to justify contributing to the thread.... so here it is. after 27 years of automotive repair it has been my experience that when shit comes flying off your vehical on the interstate because you didnt stop to find out what was making the noise that you admitted it was making or when you dont perform prevenative maintenance on your vehicals regularly that encompass diagnostic checks on the full vehical for wear and performance issues then the end result is usually catastrophic and sudden in nature. in a more simply put forth format it would be prudent to state that.......... iginorance caused it. come on now your dick cant be that small can it .

From : tom lawrence

flashflashflashflashflash........flashflashflashflashflash.......... a code 55 right yep. again if you really get on it......its smooth as glass. what does this sound like to you you mentioned gear positioning earlier. still think so probably not. i only mentioned the way to check out the timing since you said the timing chain was replaced and the guy had to play with it a bit to get the engine running right or almost right. another clue. sometimes mostly when you are slowly starting out im getting a fairly good shimmying effect on the actual stick shift. sounds like youre getting misfires. again i know this is repetitive but its your best troubleshooting tool read the codes. unfortunately the software running in your engines computer doesnt pinpoint the misfires to a particular cylinder like the 98+ ones will but it could still be useful. listen to the exhaust tone when idling. can you hear a break in the rumbles this is kind of hard to explain but a smoothly-firing v8 will have a slight whump-whump-whump to the exhaust tone. a misfiring cylinder will give a much more pronounced gap in the exhaust pulses. another way to easily test for a misfiring cylinder is with the engine running one at a time disconnect the electrical connector at each injector. if you pull this off a properly-firing cylinder the engines rpm will drop the tone will change ie. youll know it. if you remove one and nothing changes with the engine well... however the fact that its smooth at wide-open throttle but poor at part-throttle makes me think it could be a sensor problem causing a lean a/f mixture during whats called closed loop operation. again - its pretty hard to diagnose remotely... and silly me must have been very late when i posted my original message because it is and always was a 95 dodge dakota not 96. okay - doesnt make a whole lot of difference. if i took it to dodge ill think about it just for a routine oil change and lube got a good coupon today in the mail and asked them to look into it what do you think they would say $60-$75 diagnostic fee up front no questions asked. ask yourself if $75 is worth it to actually find out whats going on with it. btw - its not dodge per se that screwed you over last time - it was the dealerships service department. take it to a different dealership. explain briefly ^ the problems the other dealership gave you and tell them in a polite way that youre not looking to repeat the experience and would like a firm diagnosis before throwing a bunch of parts at the problem. most service departments love the chance to better those clowns down the road. .

From : denny

says... getting the milk home from the store before it spoils sounds good to me! bdk .

From : richardson brian

first - spell my damn name right. second - you can do whatever the hell you want greg.... dont let the van fall on your head though - that would be a damn shame. third one wheel wont be accurate. fourth best to use the tag on the axle cover. how is one wheel not accurate enough to get the ratio yes greg if it is an open rear you can lift one wheel put it into neutral and count the number of revolutions of the drive shaft for one full turn of the lifted wheel to get the ratio. it will probably not be exact due to backlash in the rear and wear in the rear u-joint but it will be close enough to figure out which factory gear set that you have. the trick is to always turn the wheel in one direction and rotate it a few turns before you start to count. you may also want to put a piece of tape on one of the u-joint caps to use as a reference mark. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .