hemi question
From : smoove
Q: on fri 17 sep 2004 174044 -0400 japhar81 japhar81@gmail.com wrote for those whove been following my earlier saga i think its the water pump. it looks like its an aftermarket pump. i looked under the truck just now and saw a huge puddle. started the engine for about 45 seconds and saw h2o dripping out of the bottom... its passenger side mounted to the firewall so i guess it must be the waterpump even though it doesnt look like one. i think you need to go buy a service manual for your vehicle before you go any farther. beekeep .
Replies:
From : budd cochran
on mon 27 sep 2004 051609 -0500 mike simmons mikesim@fidnet.com wrote unless of course you have a 0225 ferd 250 with the built in controller... *eg* just get a prodigy and be done with it! i just got back from towing 3000 miles thru the smokys and appalachian mountains and couldnt be happier! best bang for the buck imho. mike on wed 22 sep 2004 172019 -0600 bob bobcowan@access4less.net wrote i just purchased a flatbed trailer. dual axle brakes on one only. now i need a good brake controller. i want digital not inertia. i want quality without a lot of extra doo-dads. i have the factory tow package and i still have the controller pig tail from dodge. right now reese is looking pretty good. what have you used that youve like or dis-liked and wheres the best place to get it neighbor has a large boat and uses hydraulic serge brakes. he backs the trailer in to salt water. electric brakes would probably be short lived. im thinking a long down hill 6% for 5 miles would have hydraulics smoking. i have a 10 ton trailer with electric on both axers and a controller. on a long steep decent i down shift manual trans to whatever gear that allows me to use the brakes for short periods. the controller is adjusted for aggressive trailer braking and around town backed off a little with delay. the hydraulics under these conditions would turn to smoke. also i shudder when hearing of a trailer w/hyds tapping into the tow vehicles hyd system! kend mac .
From : redneck tookover hell
redneck tookover hell wrote in 56 chevy got 283 horse out of a dual quad 283. minor point 283s were for the 1957 chevys. 56s still had the 265 just trying to keep you honest g 57 was the first year for the fulies right jeff politics the gentle art of getting votes from the poor and campaign funds from the rich. .
From : budd cochran
on mon 27 sep 2004 014136 gmt jerry jlrice1655@earthlink.net wrote theguy wrote on sun 26 sep 2004 165912 gmt tbone t-bonenospam@nc.rr.com wrote that goes for you as well jerry boy. jery hes got you there this time. what did your post serve other that to keep this horse race going like you just did what did your post with and theyre off. tbone on the inside rail budd coming up hard on the outside as they round the first corner serve other than to keep the bs going. you of all people have absolutely no room to talk. you could run this around in a circle all night but tommy troll doesnt have anyone anywhere. he is simple back after a week being gone with his usual bullshit. then again no one expected the troll to stay away for long. hes like a fat boy in a chocolate factory. jerry whew! you are really wound a little too tight tonight jerry. stand back everyone jerrys gonna blow. .
From : jeff mayner
budd cochran wrote no idea. couldnt get close enough but it would probably be safe to assume the production engine and transmission would be the unit used for testing since you need to check the whole drive train right budd the magazines say hemi. they also say 40k. - jeff my eldest and i have been seeing several new as in next years model powerwagons and jeeps at a closed gas station here in moab. well it was closed but now it looks like its for vehicle testing and set up. i got a close look at license plates on the jeeps . . . michigan manufacturers plates. hello momma mopar! lets just say my son loved the looks of the powerwagons and i thought the jeeps were fantastic. i guess there might be one advantage to this little chunk of desert . . . budd is the power wagon got a hemi in it or just a 340 -- moparman---remove clothes to reply! --scud coordinates 32.61204 north 96.92993 west-- .
From : budd cochran
i hadnt thought of that analogy . . .apt quite apt. bg budd hes like a fat boy in a chocolate factory. jerry .
From : ramworker
on sun 26 sep 2004 084922 -0600 joe shawj@cableone.net wrote i own a 99 durango 5.9 slt 4wd leather front and rear a/c 31x10.5 tires. can somone tell me what is different on the r/t model. i havent been able to come up with anything other than the wheels and maybe a little suspension upgrade. thanks joe xxxshawj@cableone.net remove the xs to reply i thought it had to be the r/t to have the 5.9/360 mac .
From : budd cochran
oldbluein2 wrote thanks for the information - of the previous ram wagons that ive looked at many are rental returns. should that be something i watch for also thanks! the problem with rentals is that the people driving it know that it can be abused without being held accountable for accelerated wear and tear. on the other side of the coin rental vehicles are normally kept on a pretty tight preventive maintenance schedule. did you ask the dealer for that maintenance report carfax also might interest you. carfax cannot tell you things about the vehicle that were never reported so dont trust it as an all inclusive report. it will tell you if it ever was ever registered as a rental. accidents can show up on carfax as well as emissions inspection failures vehicle theft etc. .
From : budd cochran
you could put a small sub panel 4 or 6 position right next to your main. then you could remove one of your 220 volt connections like your ac from your main and power it through the new sub and use the open slots from the original ac connection to power the sub next to the main with a 100a 220v breaker. with that you could then add an additional 60 amp 220v breaker in this new sub to feed a second sub in the garage for your tools. this is easy to do and will save you a fortune over having an electrician do it and should be completely within code. i dont really have the room next to the main sub it is in a closet now. if i were to power a sub off the main ill run the wires from the main through the attic into the garage down the wall and into a sub. i see but what i was referring to was a baby sub next to your main one to give you the extra spaces that you seem to need to connect your shop sub up in the garage. do you have a main / meter combination box with a sub feeding most of the house or just a main panel with the meter outside i may do it myself but first i have to have a garage worth putting outlets into. kids stuff has to go.... i understand that. i finally have the space a whole walkout basement for my shop laundry room upstairs and furnace outside. now i only need the time and money to build it. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : budd cochran
my eldest and i have been seeing several new as in next years model powerwagons and jeeps at a closed gas station here in moab. well it was closed but now it looks like its for vehicle testing and set up. i got a close look at license plates on the jeeps . . . michigan manufacturers plates. hello momma mopar! lets just say my son loved the looks of the powerwagons and i thought the jeeps were fantastic. i guess there might be one advantage to this little chunk of desert . . . budd is the power wagon got a hemi in it or just a 340 -- moparman---remove clothes to reply! --scud coordinates 32.61204 north 96.92993 west-- .
From : mopaman
lol yea right. keep dreaming. it aint gonna happen when you are this far up the performance scale. tom you are spending too much time touching yourself again. let me try it this way for me the last time believe whatever the hell you want. the performance was so close that a change in humidity could cause different results. again cool fuel cold air maybe a little more boost........... sorry roy but it seems that the only one touching themselves in here right now is you. how is it that the lightning can be so close with 120 hp and 75 ft-lbs of torque less than the ram. the fact is that the ram is faster quicker handles better and stops quicker and weighs 300 lbs more. if it would be so easy for ford to regain the lead they would do it in 2005 and not wait until 2006. the fact is that it will take more than cooler fuel to make up a 1/2 second when you are already pushing low 13s with a 5000 lb truck but hey you own one show me okay genius here ya go. the srt 10 at $45k is 13.5-13.8 so says dc. but for the sake of this exercise lets call it 13.00. now all along ive been saying that for around or under $5k a lightning at $30k could be made quicker than the srt10. oh also be used as a truck ie pull 5klbs and ya can put 1/2 ton in the bed. how about 12.1 with a filter chip lower pulley water pump and elec. fan. and a shift kit octane boost no bottle. the guy didnt spend 3k. now i suppose youll do your usually bs prove it and your usual rant but you might want to go to www.nloc.net go to the forums scroll to times and modifications. then perhaps you will learn what a bunch of use have learned it takes a little thought and the right mods and ya can grab easily 1-2sec or more from stock.without spending a fortune if you know what the engine responds to. hi performance requires a whole new set of books tom. better start reading. now i have another a question for you tom. why cant you put a 1/2ton in the bed or tow with the srt10 without screwing the warranty it is marketed as a 1/2 ton truck isnt it or is the truck designation more marketing bs like the new hemi. maybe ford should put a bed on the gt and call it a truck too.bfg roy .
From : budd cochran
my new 04 short box. went with linex it has a better adhesion as it sets up immediately as opposed to rhino which takes hours to dry. as far as price the local dealer had a 75 off coupon had to ask but it came to 325...........see if they have it available any suggestions i .
From : budd cochran
joe wrote jeff mayner jeffmayner@yahoo.com wrote in tbone wrote tbone wrote i am thinking about buying the srt 10. my problem is i have spent 5 years working on building my 96 c1500 ext cab chevy truck. i am at the point where all i need to do is finish the motor. all it needs is a whipple super charger. but now i am thinking about the srt 10 since it has everything i want my chevy have. my question is should i sell the older truck and buy an srt. i am looking for opions about the srt. is it worth the money or should i finish the chevy. i have no preference when it comes to trucks as long as it is not a ford. i figure the super whipple would put me at about 480hp. im going to probably piss off the blind loyalty folks but heres my take on it. i looked long and hard at the srt 10. it is a looks like a truly impressive truck but it isnt really a truck. it is quick. now for the down side it will cost around 45k or they did when i was looking last april you cant tow with them you cant put more than 500lbs. in the bed. so say the dealer. warranty issues they say. they only come as a standard which can be a pia if you have to contend with traffic. the srt 10 is a few mph faster top end and a couple of tenths quicker in the quarter depending on what test you read than the lightning. you can tow with the lightning you can put a 1/2 ton in the bed. one other thing you can spend the 15k$ that you save on it on a nice hd you can probably guess that i bought a lightning. love the sound of the blower in the morning sounds like victory.bfg according to the guy on trucks ford is redoing the lightning to match power and speed with the srt10 in 05 or possibly 06 and with that will probably come the same limitations and pricing as the srt10. historically the lightning has had reasonable towing ability and the use of the bed though somewhat limited. why would they change now its the reason the lightning has been popular all along while others have come and gone. great performance and some utility at a reasonable price. i believe that it is a matter of status. for a long time ford was the king and now dodge has something that can beat it in power speed and handling. i believe that if dodge could have created this level of performance and made it fully usable as a truck they would have but as they say there is no such thing as a free lunch so instead they basically redesigned a viper with a truck body. if ford wants to regain its crown and compete with dodge on this level they will have to make some serious changes and give up the actual truck capability and stacy from trucks made it sound like that is their intention. not really tom. all ya have to do is change the pulleys to up the boost. or change the blower to a kb and go with a dyno tune a safer metheod. remember we are only talking a few mph and a few tenths.rumor is a total redesign and more hp some time in 06. while im sure that you can get a few more ponies out of it by doing what you suggested its probably not going to be enough to beat the srt10. you would have to gain another 120 hp and 75 ft-lbs of torque to match the dodge and its going to take more than swapping pulleys to do that and if you cant come close to these numbers you are not going to beat the dodge. as im sure you know when you push the limit on speed and acceleration it takes a lot more hp and torque to gain even a small increase in performance. i dont know why everyone seems to think that the ford has to have as much hp and tq as the srt. it has 380hp now and is real damn close in performance. i think the new lightning will be at least as quick and fast as the dodge. if they keep the cost under 40k and i think they will and keep the utility then imo ford will have the winner. jeff i dont think ford will be offering an 05 lightning. thats not . everything ive read points to summer/fall 05 as an 06. jeff joe black 03 dakota 5.9 r/t cc calypso green 93 mustang 5.0 lx hatch with a few goodies .
From : smoove
on thu 23 sep 2004 152544 gmt trey treydog90spam@hotmail.com wrote i wish anything fit in the garage!!! its embarrassing to open it when the neighbors are out front. up until about a month ago that was me. i spent almost 16 hours emptying the entire 3 car space cleaning and mopping the floor got the epoxy coating on the slab and putting everything away. i actually managed to get 2 cars and my trailer/4wheeler in there. now that its clean i cant find anything. lol .
From : mopaman
that is correct budd but unless you are saying that it takes 120 hp and 75 ft-lbs of torque to move that extra 330 lbs then your reasoning is invalid. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving nor does your witty remark change the fact that the heavier vehicle would need more horsepower to stay even. budd tom whichever one is the heavier truck is the one that will need the higher horsepower. that would be the srt10. yea around 330 lbs big deal. if aa/fds weighed the same as a 65 caddy theyd still be trying to break 200.mph. dont confuse him with a bunch of letters. smart assed comments dont change facts. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : budd cochran
jerry wrote trey wrote what are the oil change intervals with amsoil 12-20k miles or once a year ill tell you what that little book in the glove compartment called a owners manual says.................. it states even if you use synthetic oils you should follow the guide lines in the book. who do you want to trust the life of your engine to the maker of a mystery oil or the people who designed and built your engine jerry and who does the writer of that little book tell you to go to for that oil change if oil analysis comes back saying the oil is good and is still working to its full potential with no contaminance then why would i want to dump it changing the oil would be as helpful for the truck as giving kragen $20 is. lets take a looksy here. 1999 dakota pickup owners manual page 201 schedule a normal driving first item only posting oil related items 7500 miles or six months. change oil 15000 miles change oil replace filter. 22500 miles change oil 30000 miles change oil replace filter. 37500 miles change oil 45000 miles change oil replace filter etc... etc... so it looks like the manufacturer specs 7500 mile intervals not 3000. and 15000 for the oil filter not 3000 .
From : budd cochran
i just purchased a flatbed trailer. dual axle brakes on one only. now i need a good brake controller. i want digital not inertia. i want quality without a lot of extra doo-dads. i have the factory tow package and i still have the controller pig tail from dodge. right now reese is looking pretty good. what have you used that youve like or dis-liked and wheres the best place to get it -- .bob 1997 hd fxdwg - turbocharged! 2001 dodge dakota qc 5.9/4x4/3.92 1983 gmc jimmy - mountain beater 1966 mustang coupe - daily driver 1966 ffr cobra - ongoing project ive got my eye on this one for my dakota.... http//www.brakesmart.net/brakesmart.htm carl -- to reply please remove x y z. .
From : budd cochran
nor does your witty remark change the fact that the heavier vehicle would need more horsepower to stay even. budd tom whichever one is the heavier truck is the one that will need the higher horsepower. that would be the srt10. yea around 330 lbs big deal. if aa/fds weighed the same as a 65 caddy theyd still be trying to break 200.mph. dont confuse him with a bunch of letters. smart assed comments dont change facts. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : roy
so lets see because i sell a product i cant ask for opinions on it the people to talk to are your customers not a group. you want experiences with the product that you can trust because you can see the consumer face to face. this is one of the problems with getting into mlms . . they dont require and often prevent for example amway you from applying good business practices. he already said that his customers love the product. he is trying to find people who used it and were not happy and why. yep. from my experience he got one of the negatives he asked for and from my business experience i know he may not be getting full info from his customer base. typically only 10 -13% reply to surveys. now he did. your last comment was unclear but you have now cleared it up in this post. wouldnt that actually be the responsible thing to do product evaluation is improtant bt maybe you should look on the net for any info including the negative sites. for example look at the sites that are anti-amway theres plenty of them. he is trying to do the research but is only getting bogus responces like yours. what does amway have to do with any of this it sounds like you are just bitter about amway. how is my experience as a forklift mechanic bogus we used amsoil it failed. typically a forklift will wear at a rate three to ten times that of an automotive engine so in a short period we had more wear with the amsoil engines than we should have . . .how is that not a useful source of info if i were still working at that factory i could give engine hour log records but i dont. i am not talking about your claims of engine failures that didnt exist in the previous post. i was talking about your complaints and comments about mlms. i blatantly asked for the negatives. and i gave you a negative reply whats the problem be glad i usually dont even respond to spammers and dont normally report them to their isps. please explain exactly how amsoil failed. a failed to live up to advertised claims. the distriubutor worked for the factory as well as sold amsoil and gave up on amsoil after hearing the results. the factorys corporate headquarters considered suing amsoil for damages. b engines wore more rapidly than when standard oil co 10w-40 was used. iirc in the 6 months those three trucks needed two overhauls fyi they ran 24/7 to one and a half for the standard oil lubed engines. c amsoil cost more because the distributor would or couldnt give volume discounts and fuel economy was no better either. that was enough for us to discontinue the use. and this is exactly the type of answer that he was looking for clear and to the point. before all you said was that it didnt do any better than conventional oil. i posted a very polite and humble post with no sales pitch whatsoever. right. . . . in your opinion. if you had investigated amsoil more closely you would not have been so likely to fall for their sales pitches. how can he do that when all he gets in responce to his questions is bs like this. tom youre trying to start another argument. im giving facts from personal experience and from my business experience. youre the one doing the bs. what help did you give have you used amsoil have you had a negative experience with it no i am not. your previous answer appeared to say that it didnt do any better than conventional and because of that it failed and then you went on complaining about mlms and pyramid schemes which has nothing to do with the question at hand. and yes for those of you who actually will check me out i did make one spam post to this board my apologies for certain. then you return with this thing and wonder why you got jumped about it . . . .duh. this thing is a valid question and you jumped on him because you dont have a valid answer. right tom. my personal experience is not a valid answer according to you. well we see now who really is trying to start the argument. not at all. your previous answer was unclear but you have now cleared it up and it has become valid. s for my original post my request still stands i would love to hear more of the bad from people with first hand knowledge like the forklift mechanic. hello that was me. i used to be the forklift mechanic. i saw the results first hand. ok and what exactly were the results. according to you it did no worse than the dino oil in the others. did you have an oil analysis done on these fork lifts after changing it what were the results compared to the dino oil tom youre nitpicking just to start an argument. it was back in 73 or 74. no oil analysis was done but rebuild records were. and i just gave the results. the reason for saying it was no better was simply because the factory environment was such that engines often failed . . it was the the fact that those three e
From : jeff mayner
my eldest and i have been seeing several new as in next years model powerwagons and jeeps at a closed gas station here in moab. well it was closed but now it looks like its for vehicle testing and set up. i got a close look at license plates on the jeeps . . . michigan manufacturers plates. hello momma mopar! lets just say my son loved the looks of the powerwagons and i thought the jeeps were fantastic. i guess there might be one advantage to this little chunk of desert . . . budd .
From : mopaman
my eldest and i have been seeing several new as in next years model powerwagons and jeeps at a closed gas station here in moab. well it was closed but now it looks like its for vehicle testing and set up. i got a close look at license plates on the jeeps . . . michigan manufacturers plates. hello momma mopar! lets just say my son loved the looks of the powerwagons and i thought the jeeps were fantastic. i guess there might be one advantage to this little chunk of desert . . . budd take some friggin pics and post them please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! oh pics of the truck not of yourself i couldnt handle that so early . g roy .
From : redneck tookover hell
crybaby crap from budd snipped sorry for the piggyback response on budds reply but rrs worthless servers really suck and i never saw this one from you. sure you probably could buy a few stock short blocks for less and save money but you really wouldnt be any better off than you were to begin with .thenyouforgot to add the time and fun of yanking the dead engine out swapping parts putting the new one back in and hoping that you didnt miss or break something in the process and having no vehicle in the mean time. if you flog anything long enough and hard enough youll break it. the mods i gave are minor and are well within the capability of the engine to withstand. possibly but just because the mods are easy doesnt make them minor. changing the waste gate pressure on a turbocharged engine is easy too but the results are far from minor. im not completely sure how much more hp that engine can reliably deal with but from your link you are probably right. either way i doubt that the drive train will put up with it for long if you make it tow with this extra hp. any way you look at it there is no free lunch. iirc that engine was designed to put out around 260 hp stock without the blower and ford already added 100+ hp to it and i doubt that they made any significant changes internally or they simply wouldnt be able to sell that truck so cheap. you really dont know what the hell your talking about when it comes to high performance do ya when you say things like that it sounds more like you dont. dont you just love the way that got turned back around at ya from what i can find on the web it is the same 5.4 short block that the regular truck uses and ford hopped it up with a supercharger and some other mods. how much more hp do you think that this engine can take if they were using the gt block this truck would cost much more than it does now. tom i dont doubt for a minute that you can read but actually doing it with your hands and making it run right is much different than sitting at a desk and reading about it. yes you do have to have the information before you get started but there is more to it than just reading about it. as hard as this may be for you to believe denny i actually do work on cars although not for a living anymore. it is not simply a matter of making it run right it is also using the parts that can take the strain being placed on them. now if you are saying that ford built this motor from the ground up to deal with the added hp from the blower and other mods then overdriving the blower and cranking up the timing and injection will probably have little effect on durability. with the price that they are charging for that truck i doubt that they did that. it looks like they were counting on the head room the stock engine already had to deal with the added power they gave it. if this is the case then it is a gamble to crank up the blower and set the computer even hotter because you are dealing with an engine that is already being pushed beyond its original design specs. if it is built well and not abused yea it should hold up to it but if ford was so sure that it could take it and take some abuse as well for the long hall they would have done it themselves. lets not forget what we are talking about here a factory performance vehicle and a record setter. if they could keep the lead so easily and cheaply why didnt they -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : jerry
thought i was going to stay out of the thread but one question and i am out. has anyone sent in a sample of valvoline or some other non syn oil and have it tested for usefull life like has been down with the syn oils i have always used valvoline and everytime i change it in the 5000 mile range it still seems like it would go a lot longer. ron trey wrote jerry wrote trey wrote what are the oil change intervals with amsoil 12-20k miles or once a year ill tell you what that little book in the glove compartment called a owners manual says.................. it states even if you use synthetic oils you should follow the guide lines in the book. who do you want to trust the life of your engine to the maker of a mystery oil or the people who designed and built your engine jerry and who does the writer of that little book tell you to go to for that oil change if oil analysis comes back saying the oil is good and is still working to its full potential with no contaminance then why would i want to dump it changing the oil would be as helpful for the truck as giving kragen $20 is. lets take a looksy here. 1999 dakota pickup owners manual page 201 schedule a normal driving first item only posting oil related items 7500 miles or six months. change oil 15000 miles change oil replace filter. 22500 miles change oil 30000 miles change oil replace filter. 37500 miles change oil 45000 miles change oil replace filter etc... etc... so it looks like the manufacturer specs 7500 mile intervals not 3000. and 15000 for the oil filter not 3000 .
From : budd cochran
carl wedekind wrote ive got my eye on this one for my dakota.... http//www.brakesmart.net/brakesmart.htm carl this type of controller is what was widely used in the 70s. it uses a transducer to measure brake fluid pressure and controls the trailer brakes proportionaly. it works very well one of the smoothest methods to use. only problem is that its tied to the vehicles brake system. if the tvs hydraulics fail so does the trailer brakes except for manual control. in an emergency where your tv looses hydraulics you need one hand to steer. should the other hand be used to activate the tvs emergency brake or should it activate the brake controllers manual control with a prodigy or similar controller slowing the tv with the emergency brake will also activate the trailer brakes. point well taken. however my buddys experience with a prodigy led me to the interest in brakesmart. he has a dodge ram and tows a big gooseneck flatbed. his problem was with brake fade on the tv. as the truck brakes faded even though he pressed harder the prodigy saw the lack of deceleration and offered less braking. i felt that trailer braking in proportion to pedal pressure makes the most sense. carl theres a lot cheaper and easier way to do it http//www.bestbrakecontroller.com/ rick .
From : budd cochran
the reason i wanted to see about disabling the limliter is simple....at 90 mph it shuts the fuel off...shortly after this gd mustang caught up to me and passed me...nuff said thx all for you replys hey guysi got an 03 dakota 4.7 how do i unhook or disable this rev limiter thx thump .
From : jerry
trey wrote jerry wrote trey wrote what are the oil change intervals with amsoil 12-20k miles or once a year ill tell you what that little book in the glove compartment called a owners manual says.................. it states even if you use synthetic oils you should follow the guide lines in the book. who do you want to trust the life of your engine to the maker of a mystery oil or the people who designed and built your engine jerry and who does the writer of that little book tell you to go to for that oil change it doesnt tell you to go anywhere ................... it only makes a recommendation but says if you do use oil other than mopar then you must use oil that meet the spec.s as described. but you already know that dont you. why are you worried about kragens profits they arent the one that will foot the bill when warranty work is denied to the yoyo dumb enough to fall for a amsoil or heaven forbid k&n advertisement crap. jerry .
From : jerry
the other kevin in san diego wrote on thu 23 sep 2004 000123 -0400 nospam.clare.nce@snyder.on.ca wrote you need a drain valve in place of the drain plug with a threaded cap to prevent accidental oil loss. then you remove the plug slip on a chunk of hose and open the drain directing asll of the oil into a jug for disposal/recycling. i had one of those - think it was a fram unit. damn thing leaked constantly so i put the oem drain plug back in. i partially unfold a card table and set it on its side next to the truck to block the wind nowdays. still sprays a little but nothing like before. i wish the truck fit in the garage. heeheh i wish anything fit in the garage!!! its embarrassing to open it when the neighbors are out front. .
From : budd cochran
group... i received good help from the group on my blower motor resistor problem. the dealer part cost less than $12 so my saving by doing it myself was at least $83. thanks! john 2002 dakota-- quad-- 3.9 .
From : paul johnson
the facts are evident you sell amsoil youre trying to prove its worthiness . . .youre spamming no matter what you claim in your sig line. fyi a factory i worked at in the 70s used amsoil in 3 of 20 gasoline powered forklifts for 6 mos running 24 / 7 with no improvement in performance economy or longevity. how do i know i was the mechanic for the forklifts. now take your snake oil and place it where the sun doesnt shine. budd yes i sell amsoil! no i am not asking you to buy it! .
From : smoove
thumper wrote hey guysi got an 03 dakota 4.7 how do i unhook or disable this rev limiter thx thump just wondering... why do you want the rev limiter removed i know for some cars there are chips to push the limit up another 300 rpm. .
From : redneck tookover hell
steve wrote in part you didnt mention where the noise is coming from. u joint failure at your mileage would be unusual. dealer tech got to the truck yesterday and found rear u-joint shot. replaced it and after driving only a few miles the problems seem to be gone. actually the joint went bad before 20k miles more like 18k so again it would seem the factory should cover this since their own literature says the joint is lubricated for the life of the vehicle. i couldnt find evidence of any programs or tsbs dealing with this issue however unless someone out there knows of one. thanks steve for all the good tips. ill save your post and keep it so ill have it around next time something similar comes up. .
From : budd cochran
on fri 24 sep 2004 174916 gmt fmb fmbb@sbcglobal.net wrote i see a very large difference between his shop and my garage besides the very nice assortment of toys he has. he has floor space. i can see it in almost every photo. i should have some floor space soon my son just got a storage garage at one of those storage places so we can move a lot of his stuff out. it will be nice to be able to have workspace in the garage again... im amazed how much space he has considering the amount of tools and the fact that his building is 18 x 18 when our daughter-in-law and the kids were living with us we put up a 10 x 14 shed in the back.. really saved the garage!! mac i have a 14 x 10 pad in the back that ill build a shed on one of these days and store more of my wifes stuff out there. i would like to use a garage for project tools and maybe even a car imagin that i also need to run 220 service into the garage. im not so sure i can do it from the current panel in the house cause it is so full already. i even looked at taking full size 15 or 20 amp breakers and changing them out to 1/2 size breakers and it still doesnt look good. i know a few electricians at work that do this kind of thing on the side so ill prob go that way and with a permit. i want it done right the first time. all you need is enough space for one 220 breaker and run it to a sub panel in the garage. if you are completely full you would need to swap out four 110 full sized for 4 half sized 110 provided you have 4 full sized breakers to swap out. what service level do you currently have good idea to get the permit and most areas will let you do the work yourself on your own house. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : budd cochran
today i was driving my durango like i do normaly nothing unusual. when i parked i noticed my headlights were still on i got in to turn them off and they werent on at least not from the switch. it is the highbeams that are on and the little indicator on the dash is lit up to indicate the highbeams. please help me get them to turn off thanks in advance. bob sacamano .
From : mgg
trey this is absolutely a possibility. however this is something that is typically found on older engines. the 30000 foot overview is basically this... higher mileage engines running conventional oil will eventually build up deposits around the rings valves lifters etc... these deposits basically form a false seal and prevent your gaskets from staying moist this in turn causes them to dry out and no longer do their job seal openings. what happens when you run a synthetic oil in these engines is by their nature most if not all synthetics will inherently clean these deposits as they run through your engine over time this process will reveal the underlying problems of bad seals and gaskets and that is when the leak occurs. it is a bit of a catch 22 with older engines you want to use a quality oil to get the maximum life out of an engine however it may cost you some dough to get all the gaskets and seals replaced. unless you are restoring an older vehicle and planning on this labor anyway i dont know that i could recommend switching to a pure synthetic. if you would like a more technical and detailed explanation please let me know. dan president howling enterprises inc www.howlingmotorsports.com matt macchiarolo wrote i have heard many reports of people switching to amsoil and they car/tuck starts to leak oil. i only have 60k miles on my tuck but i have a brand new drive way with zero stains on it. i would like to keep it that way! i put less then 5k miles on my truck every year now no longer my daily driver. they say you should change the amsoil once a year. i change the oil every six months summer viscosity winter viscosity. mobil1 can handle this kind of mileage with no trouble. amsoil would just be more money spent on a truck i hardly drive. .
From : kens
turned out problem was solely the 2 year-old oem battery. after installing new battery the tech checked voltage regular/alternator and all was well. it surprised me that the erratic gauge/idiot light behavior was due to a very weak/dead battery. however engine performance wasnt affected. thanks for everyones help/suggestions. sounds like the battery could be bad. sounds pretty simple but i would sub in another one before spending any major dinero. van has 46900 miles 3.3 engine oem battery no prior electrical problems. my wife went shopping and when she tried to start the van starter would not crank. only result was gauge needles moving to the right. she successfully jump started the engine but as soon as she backed out of the parking space the engine died. she later repeated the jump start using another donor car with same result. she then called me to come pick her up. i successfully jump started the engine and noticed the engine cranked noticeably slower than normal. i idled the engine for a few minutes at a medium rpm before disconnecting the jumper cables and this time the engine did not die. on the trip home she said the battery abs and brake lights were on some of the time then off again. also the gauges were erratic. after parking the van she killed the engine then was unable to restart it. to my non-mechanical mind this seems like more than a battery problem. any ideas morgan .
From : van
actually its best to have both a light and a guage in the case you dont often look at the guages the light will draw your attention to look at the guage. my 78 lebaron had a neat idea of puttin a small light on the guage when critical info was not in the normal range. these were stock guages too. the newer chrysler dodge product now have an icon that lights on the dash to draw your attention to the guages. thing i always liked about mopars thay usually all had guages instead of idiot lights. .
From : 127 0 0 1 get rooted localhost
uh roy . . .you were the only one thinking about that . . . . . bg budd do ya really think so i doubt it. look who jumped in. bfg roy my point is there will always be a correct way to do things and 99% of your modern techs couldnt do them right if their lives depended on it. true mechanics are a dying breed . . . . budd just for argument sake cause i know you hate to argue.... vbg there can be more than one way to do a job correctly. for instance packing wheel bearings on old dinosaurs. after cleaning and toweling dry the bearings you could pack them by putting a glob of grease in the palm of your hand and working it into the bearing by hand. i could pack it with one of those new fangled bearing packers. both pushes new grease thru the bearing and out the other side/cage. which is the most correct way of packing them not that im old enough to have ever worked on something that old......... bg denny dont mention packing too loud. a few here might get the wrong idea. bfg roy .
From : roy
whats different about a hemi engine that make it a hemi is it the pistons -- smoove 91 gsxr 750 96 chevy c1500 and 94 suburban hated by many... confronted by none! pain is weakness leaving the body!!! its better to be judged by twelve than carried by six. www.myhooptie.com .
From : budd cochran
on sun 26 sep 2004 195142 gmt fmb fmbb@sbcglobal.net wrote i dont have room for a baby sub in the closet. the meter is outside it feeds a 100amp breaker right next to it that feeds the panel in the closet in the house. there isnt room enough for another sub in there imho. im not an electrician but is there a possibility of putting a sub panel either outside or somewhere else between the 100 amp breaker and the closet and running that into the garage maybe you need to by a big-ass generator for the rv and keep it in the garage..lol mac .
From : budd cochran
yep but the 283 horse / 283 cube engine was a dual four barrel engine. the fuelies came out later in the year. mopar and pontiac also had fuelies in an attempt to win back some customers using hilborn injection systems. but stu hilborn never really intended to build a street injection system so they ended up being pulled and discarded for carbs. budd redneck tookover hell wrote in 56 chevy got 283 horse out of a dual quad 283. minor point 283s were for the 1957 chevys. 56s still had the 265 just trying to keep you honest g 57 was the first year for the fulies right jeff politics the gentle art of getting votes from the poor and campaign funds from the rich. .
From : nosey
since mercedes merged with chrysler and mercedes has some ties merged with freightliner and freightliner has detroit diesel as a subsidiary does that mean ill be able to get a detroit 8v92 in my 2006 dodge ram not that id want to . . . 8v92 i thought they stopped making that years ago the sought after detroit is now the series 60 inline six. btw i think detroit is selling mercedes diesels now. both the mbe 900 and mbe 4000. al .
From : budd cochran
on tue 28 sep 2004 134658 -0400 nick n@tuucksnick.com wrote if it was its all relative.. *eg* any ideals if it was made in alabama nick over a period of time there have been frequent misspellings of the word cummins cummings in posts and protests from the insulted. a few days ago i noticed a similar misspelling in the marketplace. i was in a tractor supply store looking for a can of spray paint. on the shelf there was a section for engine paints. right beside the chevrolet orange and ford blue was a section with cummings gray. paul johnson mac .
From : roy
i had a 56 210 sedan wow my first car . . . with the single four 265 power pack engine p-glide . . .it wasnt very powerful or at least wasnt by the time i got it. 116 second quarter miles and then you cleaned oil out the distributor before you could restart the durn thing. -- budd pres. bush john kerry has changed his position on the iraq war so many times he could debate himself. b.c. and lose. then id like for someone to explain to chevrolet they could not have had a 283 horse 283 in 56 because that was my source. budd i think it was a 265 with 265hp. also iirc it was a single 4bbl with dual exhaust. referred to as the power pack. before my time so i could very well be wrong. roy .
From : budd cochran
for all those that provided advice/discussion/comments thanx. it was all very helpfull. based on information gleaned here and on other boards i purchased a prodigy controller and installed it in my 01 dakota tonight. its a pretty straight foreward install - screw it to the dash and plug it in. now comes the problem/concern. in dodges infinite wisdom the power supply at the factory plug is not switched. i know go figure. anyway the little red leds are lit constantly - key on or off. sometime in the summer my truck sits for a week or two. is this going to be a battery issue leds by themselves dont draw enough power to worry about. but is the controller drawing enough power to drain the battery personally i think its a way for the japanese spy service to keep track of americans towing trailers just in case we happen to be carrying glcms. maybe ill just wrap it in alum foil. -- ..bob 1997 hd fxdwg - turbocharged! 2001 dodge dakota qc 5.9/4x4/3.92 1983 gmc jimmy - mountain beater 1966 mustang coupe - daily driver 1966 ffr cobra - ongoing project .
From : ramworker
pieces and have it on the passenger side. your call. dont forget to get a big block 727. know whether the crankshaft is forged or cast so you can get the right harmonic balancer and torque converter. there were forged cranks 440s built after 1974 so dont go strictly by what year the engine is. dont worry about the later thin wall block as long as you dont go more than .030. dick landy claims they cool better in a street engine anyway. have fun! old age and treachery will overcome youth and enthusiasm happiness is driving an ass kicking big block mopar .
From : jeff mayner
to your guys aurguement about people being taken advantage from the oil companies schaeffers allows extended oil change intervals after a few oil changes of around 3000 miles. then you can go up to 5000-7000 miles before an oil change ill stick with 4-5k miles i like to make sure my engine stays clean. on mon 20 sep 2004 193657 -0500 tranch728 tranch728@nospam.net wrote i use a product called amsoil in my rig. 2003 dodge ram 1500 4.7l quad cab and in my wifes 2002 accord. i run my oil to 35000 miles with oil analysis and i have absolutely no problems. amsoil makes mobil 1 look like pine tar. you can check out the amsoil docs at www.howlingmotorsports.com there is a link on that site to check out the tests comparing amsoil to mobil 1 and castrol syntec etc... i dont know about the claims being made by amsoil and those using it. i dont say it isnt true i just have an issue with not changing oil for 35k miles. ive been driving and maintaining my cars for 30 years and its just very hard to break that 3k or 3 month oil change habit. oil quality aside... its a good idea to look at your vehicle under the hood every 3 months. or if you dont know how have someone else do it for you. $80 per year is a cheap price to know that your fluid levels are checked tire pressures checked mechanicals glanced at & all the soot & acidity thats built up in your crankcase is drained. dino oil & labour are cheap. just my take. .
From : jeff mayner
just get a prodigy and be done with it! i just got back from towing 3000 miles thru the smokys and appalachian mountains and couldnt be happier! best bang for the buck imho. mike on wed 22 sep 2004 172019 -0600 bob bobcowan@access4less.net wrote i just purchased a flatbed trailer. dual axle brakes on one only. now i need a good brake controller. i want digital not inertia. i want quality without a lot of extra doo-dads. i have the factory tow package and i still have the controller pig tail from dodge. right now reese is looking pretty good. what have you used that youve like or dis-liked and wheres the best place to get it neighbor has a large boat and uses hydraulic serge brakes. he backs the trailer in to salt water. electric brakes would probably be short lived. im thinking a long down hill 6% for 5 miles would have hydraulics smoking. i have a 10 ton trailer with electric on both axers and a controller. on a long steep decent i down shift manual trans to whatever gear that allows me to use the brakes for short periods. the controller is adjusted for aggressive trailer braking and around town backed off a little with delay. the hydraulics under these conditions would turn to smoke. also i shudder when hearing of a trailer w/hyds tapping into the tow vehicles hyd system! kend .