hemi mileage?
From : jeremy
Q: one quick question. if you are planning on buying a huge 3/4 ton pickup with 4wd and if you want the hemi it looks like you intend to romp on it as well so why are you concerned about the mileage common sense says its going to suck. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving can anyone tell me thier real world mileage for a dodge 3/4 ton 4x4 with the hemi i love the way it drives but need to know real world facts before buying. thanks. .
Replies:
From : woody
http//www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/hanson.html -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving alright you guys......where do you find left twist drill bits oh yah....swabby until 72....then two more years in air force blue........ .
From : ken
this is funny this kid is spamming something in every truck section i love what he put in the ford section. .
From : mopaman
on fri 19 nov 2004 020121 gmt jeremy allsidesfinished@hotmail.com wrote can anyone tell me thier real world mileage for a dodge 3/4 ton 4x4 with the hemi i love the way it drives but need to know real world facts before buying. thanks. this has been covered recently. did you bother to look back anyway the answer i posted last month was i have a 2004 2500 with 5 speed manual and try to get every last bit out of a gallon of gas. the hemi has other ideas. in 7k miles best ever tank was 14.7 average is around 13. low is 10 mpg pulling a 5000 lb horse trailer. overall about 3 mpg worse than my old 97 ram with a 318. woody; 95fxds .
From : tbone
i have a 04 quad cab 4.7 auto 3.55 axle 2wd. ive only had it 3 weeks now but the first tank was a little over 16 mpg mostly suburbs and the second tank was 18.5 mostly 70-75 interstate mixed with some scenic mountain driving. are you revving it high or keeping the rp ms down. the auto trans rarely goes above 2000 rpms on acceleration on mine unless i push my foot down so keeping the rpms down may help. 10 mpg sounds entirely too low id have the dealer check that out. some people swear that having a tonneau cover helps your highway mileage. i just ordered a folding hard cover for mine mostly for convenience but if it also helps mileage then thats fine with me! i just use wal-mart gas with the 3 cent shopping card discount. the dodge dakota isnt known as a fuel miser you can read what a lot of other dakota owners get at this website; http//www.dodgedakotas.com/board.htm based on what ive read there it seems like 18 give or take a couple is about the range to expect for highway driving unless you have 4x4 or a heavy foot. just dont break it in too easy see the owners manual for their recommendations on break-in. jph john wrote hello all im new to this group and to the dodge brand as well. oct 1st picked up my brand new 04 dakota ext. cab 2wd 4.7 5spd. in the past month and a half ive clocked about 2400k miles so far. my question is what kind of gas mileage can i expect from this truck right now im averaging about 10 miles per gallon 90 percent of my driving is all highway. i know its not really broken in yet...but can i expect to get better gas mileage in the future im currently using 87 octane mobil & hess unleaded. this grade of gas is recommended in the truck manual. also ive been breaking her in real easy...... any comments or suggests for better fuel mileage would be appreciated. thanks .
From : bob doe
tbone wrote no it only increases traction on the rear wheels thats the point...... at the cost of increased weight so what............ i drive a diesel and it never knows it is there. which increases braking distance were talking about a couple hundred pounds not something like a trailer. n/a...... and can become a projectile thats already been covered. bolt tie strap it down. that sack of groceries in the back seat will do more damage. if you stop suddenly which is not necessary in a 4x4. what 4x4s never have to stop suddenly like i said miles is right. jerry .
From : ken
it sounds like you are talking about the rocker panels and i am unaware of any place that makes them for that year trailduster but that doesnt mean that they dont exist. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving hello all i purchased a 79 trailduster recently. overall the condition of the body is good except for some rust underneath. the rusted panels are under the driver and passenger side floor where the bottom of the truck meets the side. they are the length of the door and about 8 inches in width. i initially thought that they are part of the floorpan but i am able to see through these panels rust holes. the floorboard appears to be directly above the rusted out part. does anyone know the name of the panels that im referring to if so where might i find replacement panels thanks in advance guy arent the rocker panels vertical pieces directly under the door these are horizontal pieces under the truck. i guess i might just need to go to a junkyard and hope they have non-rusted ones. thanks guy .
From : bencon
i havent had a chance to spare the minute or two it would take to check the power steering fluid but here is something else i noticed when driving to work today -- the sound isnt there when you initially start truck it takes several minutes before it manifests itself. slidge wrote i cant quite figure out what is causing this. i have a 2000 dodge dakota. if the engine is on and i turn the steering wheel back and forth there is a little whoosh sound for want of a better description. it almost sounds like the sound when someone is walking wearing corduroy pants. it makes that sound consistently when you turn the steering wheel. however with the engine turned off it doesnt make the sound at all. any ideas .
From : roy
why not just go to the amsoil corporate website it is a little bit better featured for searching and has all the products. joe on sat 20 nov 2004 071909 gmt howling motor sports dan@howlinginc.com wrote visit www.howlingmotorsports.com for easy ordering of the synthetic everybody loves to bash! thanks dan benedix howling motorsports www.howlingmotorsports.com list@howlinginc.com .
From : denny
i think you just found your answer... a tall and/or wide trailer will always cause a bigger drop in mileage than a compact trailer. another factor speed . . the faster you try to drag it along the more drag it going to have. keep your speed reasonable say 55-60 and while it may take you a little longer you can save in fuel costs. budd our trailer is only around 2500 lbs fully loaded but it is pretty tall. i think the height is making the trailer cause more drag than it should especially when i have nothing in the bed of the truck. im going to take the truck for a 60 mile ride this weekend and ill see what the gas mileage is on it... tia. on thu 18 nov 2004 135230 -0600 carl chipman cchipman@nomadics.com wrote hey guys used to hang out on this forum right when i bought my truck five years or so ago but have dropped off till recently...however my 1999 dodge ram qc long bed is getting old and has 135000 miles on it in ive got the 5.9l v8 and gas mileage is pretty bad in the 12-13 on the highway and 10-12 around town... if im pulling something its falling down to 9 mpg. in short it sucks... does anyone have any advice.. ive just recently replaced the distributor cap well actually my mechanic did and weve run fuel injector cleaner...spark plugs and wires are only 20k miles old...air filter was replaced recently. im lost... what can i do to get the mileage and power back up also its got other small problems... in the top console one of the push button lights has gone out and i cant figure how to get the console off to replace the bulb... the electronic door lock on the passenger side door is also no longer working and when you attempt to lock it it makes a whirring noise and tries to lock but usually doesnt. finally the seal on the back window is leaking and i cant figure out how to just order a new seal. the dodge dealership says i have to order a whole new back window assembly for around $400... yikes!! help! does anyone have a good book to recommend tia carl chipman we have the same truck in a short bed... 360/auto/2wd/355 when we tow the trailer about 5500 - 6000# we average 8mpg... a tuneup and going to synthetic in everything possible got us about 1/2 mpg better so i guess thats as good as it gets.. 15 mpg on trips if were constant... 65 and 80 seem to be about the same on a trip but bouncing around between speeds drops it a lot.. in town were lucky to get 10 or 11 mpg...its a lot of truck to get moving in stop & go traffic.. .
From : yonzie
carb problems and rough acceleration or lack of fuel. to possibly solve your carb problems check the following. 1.. cracked or broken vacuum lines or vacuum leak at the carb. 2.. carb not properly torqued to specification leak at base of carb. 3.. rough acceleration can also be caused from the bad brake booster from previous message. air leak from the booster could cause an improper air/fuel mixture in the carb and cause it to bog down. 4.. make sure the fuel filter is not plugged and also check to see if their is a main inline filter canister style near the fuel tank close to the driverside rear tire. 5.. send me an e-mail sometime letting me know how you made out. thanx.. andy. aweisler@sympatico.ca same vehicle guys 64 travco rv. 318 with a can you believe 2 barrel carb. it idles fine but go to step on the gas either in park or any drive gear and its like you just grabbed it by the throat and chocked the living **** out of it. im not a real good carb man but can make adjustments or do a basic rebuild if necessary any hint or tips would be most appreciated. yohanus@dslextreme.com .
From : ken
yep got a brand new filter pressure is between 12 to 16 psi. same vehicle guys 64 travco rv. 318 with a can you believe 2 barrel carb. it idles fine but go to step on the gas either in park or any drive gear and its like you just grabbed it by the throat and chocked the living **** out of it. im not a real good carb man but can make adjustments or do a basic rebuild if necessary any hint or tips would be most appreciated. yohanus@dslextreme.com like it is fuel starved changed your fuel filter lately can you check your fuel pressure -- fmb only one b in fmb .
From : denny
im wondering at what temperature do you diesel owners typically start plugging your cummins in. having woken up to a few inches of snow this morning winter in montana is upon us. thanks i dont plug mine in until it drops to zero or below. it do take a while to warm up then but at those temps i have the winter front fully buttoned up so that helps. also and i know ill catch hell for this! the heated leather seats get the tush warm in a hurry!. go ahead #2 fire away! mike .
From : jerry
roy wrote woody wrote on fri 19 nov 2004 231938 gmt mopaman scott.hendryx.clothes@sbcglobal.net wrote this has been covered recently. did you bother to look back i dont think he asked for a smart ass remark smart ass. mopaman apparently you are not aware of how easy it is to search a group for a topic. would you like me to send you step-by step instructions and apparently you are not aware what a group is really all about. doubtful that any instructions in that area would benefit you. jerry hmmm.... jerry group instructions by woody things have ben slow lets hear them. im sure we could all use a chuckle. maybe after he shares his instructions he will permit you to share yours. i know that i have a couple of instructions that woody could benefit from. but would he listen to you jerry id listen to roy. he aint never steered me wrong yet.... denny .
From : roy
im wondering at what temperature do you diesel owners typically start plugging your cummins in. having woken up to a few inches of snow this morning winter in montana is upon us. thanks nate kinda depends on your comfort. the truck will start at 0 although a bit noisy. myself id plug in if it was going to be below freezing. made for quick heat and less wear and tear. put it on a timer only takes a couple of hours. roy .
From : jerry
tbone wrote mac davis wrote on thu 18 nov 2004 200140 gmt tbone t-bonenospam@nc.rr.com wrote a dried up ball joint would squeak whether the engine was running or not. could it be the dreaded horn ring thingy yea the horny clockspring bob possibly but the horny clockspring would also make noise whether the engine was running or not and one of the symptoms was that it only made the noise when the engine was running. oops. i missed that part. getting old i guess. bob .
From : woody
woody wrote on fri 19 nov 2004 231938 gmt mopaman scott.hendryx.clothes@sbcglobal.net wrote this has been covered recently. did you bother to look back i dont think he asked for a smart ass remark smart ass. mopaman apparently you are not aware of how easy it is to search a group for a topic. would you like me to send you step-by step instructions and apparently you are not aware what a group is really all about. doubtful that any instructions in that area would benefit you. jerry .
From : mopaman
on fri 19 nov 2004 110305 -0600 jwp justin@jwpauler.org wrote that seems to be the standard set.. in both our 99 ram and 01 dakota... hey thanks fellas never saw the sticker there before. seems ive got the 3.55 set. thanks again jwp hey yall.... is there any other way of verifying what the rear-end gear ratio is other than climbing under neat and reading the tag on a 2004 dodge ram 1500 q/c p/u i dont recall the ratio being listed on the sticker and i see now that the vin # doesnt have any clues. fwiw ive got the 5 speed manual transmission and the 4.7l v8. thanks... .
From : roy
thanks.t-bone....although you did miss the point somewhat. the 6 for sale at $140 were complete rear ends not front ends. as for waste or no waste gas mileage had nothing to do with the problem. the problem is that i have a four wheel drive vehicle that currently operates only on two drive wheels. that wont help me in the snows of montana. however i do get about 3 mpg more now than i did in four wheel drive. nice to know. the problem is if i must rebuild the differential it should be complete for the sake of alignment of the gears and meshing worn vs new parts. this would mean pulling both axles as well and reassembly and costs for complete new gearing-not just ring and pinion. as i believe i stated earlier about $800. however if i were to find a complete front end from a private party or wrecking yard i could possibly cut costs considerably and i personally think installation would be easier assuming the new one aligns like the old one...i.e. pitman arm etc. also assuming the diff is good when i acquire it. there is also good reason for wanting two wheel drive at times. remember the gearing is different 4.09 on the front and 4.10 in the rear. that means that in four wheel drive the front ever so slightly pulls the rear. it also greatly affects and effects steering. this is probably why i lost it in the first place. the heavy trailer load was minutely too much for that slight variation in gearing and the ring gear gave out. otoh better than the transfer case-yes personally i would like to have unlocking hubs for those times that i would like the rear drive wheels to drive but give me as the driver a little better steering control. i mean i really like the way it steers now. yet i also know that there will be times i want the front wheels to do the pulling. therefore if i am always in four wheel drive and in lock even if the front drive stays continuously engaged if the front wheels are unlocked i have two wheel drive and better steering control-do i not just as if i ran in high but not lock the front wheel hubs would have to be locked for the vehicle to go anywhere. so....i guess its just a question of different strokes for different folks yes my question remains the same. does anyone know what years would be compatible with the 1977 w-200 gvw on the front axle of 3500lbs and gearing of 4.09 though 4.10 would probably work thank you for responding... .
From : kittinger
our trailer is only around 2500 lbs fully loaded but it is pretty tall. i think the height is making the trailer cause more drag than it should especially when i have nothing in the bed of the truck. im going to take the truck for a 60 mile ride this weekend and ill see what the gas mileage is on it... tia. on thu 18 nov 2004 135230 -0600 carl chipman cchipman@nomadics.com wrote hey guys used to hang out on this forum right when i bought my truck five years or so ago but have dropped off till recently...however my 1999 dodge ram qc long bed is getting old and has 135000 miles on it in ive got the 5.9l v8 and gas mileage is pretty bad in the 12-13 on the highway and 10-12 around town... if im pulling something its falling down to 9 mpg. in short it sucks... does anyone have any advice.. ive just recently replaced the distributor cap well actually my mechanic did and weve run fuel injector cleaner...spark plugs and wires are only 20k miles old...air filter was replaced recently. im lost... what can i do to get the mileage and power back up also its got other small problems... in the top console one of the push button lights has gone out and i cant figure how to get the console off to replace the bulb... the electronic door lock on the passenger side door is also no longer working and when you attempt to lock it it makes a whirring noise and tries to lock but usually doesnt. finally the seal on the back window is leaking and i cant figure out how to just order a new seal. the dodge dealership says i have to order a whole new back window assembly for around $400... yikes!! help! does anyone have a good book to recommend tia carl chipman we have the same truck in a short bed... 360/auto/2wd/355 when we tow the trailer about 5500 - 6000# we average 8mpg... a tuneup and going to synthetic in everything possible got us about 1/2 mpg better so i guess thats as good as it gets.. 15 mpg on trips if were constant... 65 and 80 seem to be about the same on a trip but bouncing around between speeds drops it a lot.. in town were lucky to get 10 or 11 mpg...its a lot of truck to get moving in stop & go traffic.. .