height sensing valve
From : jerry
Q: i just had my truck in for a water pump replacement and i asked the shop to see if they could figure out where a rattle was coming from. when i first started hearing the rattle it came at exactly 2100 rpm and would only happen while the truck was in drive and moving. if i sat in the driveway it was quiet. at least a year later the rattle is now evident at other lower rpms and may be slightly detectable in the driveway. doesnt rattle when the engine is cold and rattles most when the truck has been warmed up. i took a mechanic for a ride and without spending much time and none under the truck he suspected the catalytic converter. when we got back to the shop dodge dealer they checked to see if it was still covered under warranty but ive got too many miles on the truck. the part is around $600. happened to be the end of the day at the shop and a few of the mechanics were in the office. they had some discussion about the catalytic converter. some said theyd go to a muffler shop and find a far cheaper replacement but others worried that a cheaper replacement would screw up the two-o2-sensor system and i might be signing up for long-term check-engine light issues. i know i need to climb under the truck and find the source of this myself but i wonder if there are others out there who have had their converters replaced and what experience theyve had this them afterwards ** due to spam i no longer receive email responses to ** group postings so dont bother. .
Replies:
From : wmhj
dick wrote you can adjust it to give the max bias to the rear brakes. i set mine on min.on my 88 dakota after i put bigger 10 drums on it. it still had premature rear braking it needed the proper proportioning valve for 10 drums. two different animals .......... this valve is controlled by a rod and lever that corresponds to the height of the frame from the axle which would change with the load in the truck. jerry -- character is doing the right thing when nobody is looking. .
From : jerry
fs a set of chrome nurf bars came off of a single cab full size short bed 2000 dodge ram $150.00 if interested please contact carol 903-887-0783 .
From : dick
theguy wrote on sat 09 aug 2003 025706 gmt budd cochran mr-d150@citlink.net wrote its one of those tests where the lower the score the better. i wont say it i just wont. did you read what the two lowest scores represented jerry -- character is doing the right thing when nobody is looking. .
From : r
mad at me lol. maybe i will try changing out the rear end sensor it my local parts place has one tomorrow before i run to the dealer seeing as i did unplug it and test it first and got the 9 or 10 flash code...perhaps well as long as youre into diagnosing things remove the connector and check the sensors resistance with a multimeter. you should see some resistance but not a lot. sorry cant give you exact figures - but id guess 100 ohms or less on a good sensor. next switch to the millivolt scale and jack up one rear wheel both if you have a limited slip in the rear. with the transmission in neutral have someone spin the wheel while you watch for voltage on the meter. if the sensor is working properly you should see voltage fluctuations. if you dont or the continuity/resistance check fails then you know youve got a bad sensor. .
From : brad
im over that mileage... on sun 10 aug 2003 205052 -0500 ramman@dodgecity.cc wrote both the 96 and 97 rams would still be covered under the federally-mandated 8-yr/80000 mile emissions system warranty. provided that is that you have less than 80k miles on it. ** due to spam i no longer receive email responses to ** group postings so dont bother. .
From : r
well my truck was doing the same thing with the exception being that the speedometer wouldnt read from 0-40mph. we disconnected the neg. battery terminal hoping it was just a computer burp. well it still did it. took it to my mechanic and he told me to never disconect the neg batter when dash lights like that come on because it clears the error codes. that would be why your truck wasnt giving out any error codes. you dealer should have known this. even after we cleared the error code the mechanic said that he thought it was the speed sensor in the rear-end but to wait about a week to see if the lights would come back on. they never did so i brought it back to him and he changed the sensor and all is working fine now! mad at me lol. maybe i will try changing out the rear end sensor it my local parts place has one tomorrow before i run to the dealer seeing as i did unplug it and test it first and got the 9 or 10 flash code...perhaps well as long as youre into diagnosing things remove the connector and check the sensors resistance with a multimeter. you should see some resistance but not a lot. sorry cant give you exact figures - but id guess 100 ohms or less on a good sensor. next switch to the millivolt scale and jack up one rear wheel both if you have a limited slip in the rear. with the transmission in neutral have someone spin the wheel while you watch for voltage on the meter. if the sensor is working properly you should see voltage fluctuations. if you dont or the continuity/resistance check fails then you know youve got a bad sensor. .