headlight bulbs
From : nunya
Q: most likely higher system voltage. this will be a product of the voltage regulator on the alternator. you are probably over 14 volts when running. steve just had a headlight bulb burn out in my 97 ram 4x4 this weekend. i went ahead and replaced both at the same time as usual. as i was logging the service into my service journal i looked back to see when the last time the bulbs were replaced on this truck. at 275350 miles and 10+ years of rough service this is the first time i have ever put new headlight bulbs in the truck. i was amazed the factory bulbs lasted a decade. i decided to look at the service records on my other dodge trucks. the 2001 3/4 ton 4x4 diesel at 160k is still on the factory bulbs. the 1991 dakota that has 177k known miles had a broken odometer for a while is on its 2nd set of bulbs. the 1993 4x4 dakota with 220k is on its 5th set of bulbs. i am now curious as to why the 93 goes through so many more bulbs than the others. any theories michael .
Replies:
From : beryl
suddenly without warning christopher thompson exclaimed 11/28/2007 503 am to see the results/damage from a thanksgiving vacation trip............ click here http//inlinediesel.com/forum/topic.asptopicid=888 owch. my hubby did the same thing to my dakota. only he was driving and didnt see and didnt miss the big-ass toyota landcruiser as he backed up. landcruisers owner was there. landcruiser didnt have a scratch. dodge light and panel was more crumpled than yours sadly. yea hubby paid for the repairs. jmc .
From : bryan
bryan wrote mike simmons wrote beryl wrote bryan wrote since power = volts x amperes; an increase in the applied voltage will result in a proportionate increase in current since volts = amperes x resistance would make more sense. what you wrote has volts and current on the same side of the equation. you are both correct kinda sorta. for the purpose of this discussion however bryan is uisng the correct interpretation of sorry he had a 50/50 chance he picked the wrong equation. mr. ohms law. since the resistance of the bulbs filament is a constant in this case the question variable is the voltage which ultimately determines the current and thus the filament temperature which if too high will result in an early failure. and an increase in the power that is a *product* of the two. an increase in consumed power will cause the filaments to burn hotter and reduce the life of the lamp. punkin a.a.d.ts resident electrical engineer taught us that blue light is brighter than yellow light! therefore we can turn down the juice and just tint the glass blue. thats a discussion for another day. fyi white or blue light is brighter then yellow. mike both of georg ohms expressions are true. i was solving for e volts using p watts and i current/amperes. thats not what you wrote. you were werent showing that an increase in applied voltage will result in a proportionate increase in current. ohms pie and a nifty calculator is here http//www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohmslaw.asp another way of tracking the consumed power assuming the resistance of the load doesnt change appreciably would be to use p = i^2 x r or p = e^2 / r the only trouble is afik no lamp manufacturer specifies lifetime vs power consumption. however suffice to say it will be less if the specified voltage and current is exceeded and longer if the voltage and current is less than specified. there is some mention of lifetime vs applied voltage here http//tinyurl.com/2opm7l. if concerned the op should check the applied voltage with engine running above idle speed to verify it is not significantly higher than it should be. some here dont know that the voltage should be checked across the bulb while the bulb is in the socket and turned on. theyll take out the bulb measure 12v at the empty socket and think its all bitchen. bryan .
From : azwiley1
my very first truck was a dodge 1979 sno-commander. it was full time 4wd. thats why my husband called it back then. we never had to do anything to put it into 4wd. he since passed on and i finally had to sell that truck and i bought a dodge 2003 1500 with 4wd. except you have to shift the transfer case into 4wd when you need it. i only need 4wd for plowing my driveway. fairly flat/level driveway. i have no problems plowing. youll be just fine plowing in 4h is there any difference between 4wd-h and 4wd-l on the transfer case shift lever i know that one is used for intance if youre already out driving on the road and want to shift into 4wd. my question is - do both the h and l perform the same thing when the truck is in 4wd both are 4 wheel 4wd low is slow. slow truck speed high engine rpm. you will only need 4l for rock climbing or maybe on the beach in soft sand. another question is why is there some tire spinning/slipping when im navigating a sharp turn from the back of the garage around to the side garage in driveway on paved surface. the truck is barely moving because its a tight turn. my 1979 never did any tire spinning. do they make 4wd trucks weaker than they used to the last question is while driving on a stone/dirt road that is just at the start of driving up a mountain near a ski resort in the finger lakes in ny......i began in 2wd and felt it needed 4wd. i put it in 4wd but it kept popping out and into n. i finally had to cram it in 4wd and keep holding it while driving up and up for about 2 miles before i got to my friends house. then it was another .25 mile up their driveway. is that a common thing that the gears wont engage actually my grandam navigates that road better than the truck. there may be a adjustment to get more of a throw when shifting to allow you to fully engageim not sure though. try shifting to 4h while stopped and see what happens. thanks for reading marina .
From : azwiley1
my very first truck was a dodge 1979 sno-commander. it was full time 4wd. thats why my husband called it back then. we never had to do anything to put it into 4wd. he since passed on and i finally had to sell that truck and i bought a dodge 2003 1500 with 4wd. except you have to shift the transfer case into 4wd when you need it. i only need 4wd for plowing my driveway. fairly flat/level driveway. i have no problems plowing. is there any difference between 4wd-h and 4wd-l on the transfer case shift lever i know that one is used for intance if youre already out driving on the road and want to shift into 4wd. my question is - do both the h and l perform the same thing when the truck is in 4wd yes they do. the only difference is that 4wd-l has an increased gear ratio for a significant increase in pulling / pushing power at a significant reduction in speed. in your case 4wd-l would allow you to plow your driveway without cooking the transmission. the only real difference is that you cannot shift into 4wd-l while the truck is moving and the gearing is way to low to drive it at any speed in 4wd-l. you wont cook your transmission plowing in 4h. i dont know anybody that plows in low range. you cook your transmission by trying to move too much and running the transmission to stall speed pile4ing it.. actually more heat is generated by moving in reverse. .
From : azwiley1
on nov 27 317 am mike simmons mike...@yhti.net wrote bryan wrote since power = volts x amperes; an increase in the applied voltage will result in a proportionate increase in current since volts = amperes x resistance would make more sense. what you wrote has volts and current on the same side of the equation. you are both correct kinda sorta. for the purpose of this discussion however bryan is uisng the correct interpretation of mr. ohms law. since the resistance of the bulbs filament is a constant in this case the question variable is the voltage which ultimately determines the current and thus the filament temperature which if too high will result in an early failure. and an increase in the power that is a *product* of the two. an increase in consumed power will cause the filaments to burn hotter and reduce the life of the lamp. punkin a.a.d.ts resident electrical engineer taught us that blue light is brighter than yellow light! therefore we can turn down the juice and just tint the glass blue. thats a discussion for another day. mike no come on mike lets hear it. .
From : mike simmons
on nov 27 242 am beryl flyingterra...@chillylbits.org wrote bryan wrote since power = volts x amperes; an increase in the applied voltage will result in a proportionate increase in current since volts = amperes x resistance would make more sense. what you wrote has volts and current on the same side of the equation. and an increase in the power that is a *product* of the two. an increase in consumed power will cause the filaments to burn hotter and reduce the life of the lamp. punkin a.a.d.ts resident electrical engineer taught us that blue light is brighter than yellow light! therefore we can turn down the juice and just tint the glass blue. once a cock sucking whore always a cock sucking whore. but as usual you can do nothing but stir shit and prove yourself to be the ass that you truly are. additionally i never once indicated or implied any such thing fucknuts. .
From : beryl
bryan wrote since power = volts x amperes; an increase in the applied voltage will result in a proportionate increase in current since volts = amperes x resistance would make more sense. what you wrote has volts and current on the same side of the equation. you are both correct kinda sorta. for the purpose of this discussion however bryan is uisng the correct interpretation of mr. ohms law. since the resistance of the bulbs filament is a constant in this case the question variable is the voltage which ultimately determines the current and thus the filament temperature which if too high will result in an early failure. and an increase in the power that is a *product* of the two. an increase in consumed power will cause the filaments to burn hotter and reduce the life of the lamp. punkin a.a.d.ts resident electrical engineer taught us that blue light is brighter than yellow light! therefore we can turn down the juice and just tint the glass blue. thats a discussion for another day. mike .
From : bryan
my very first truck was a dodge 1979 sno-commander. it was full time 4wd. thats why my husband called it back then. we never had to do anything to put it into 4wd. he since passed on and i finally had to sell that truck and i bought a dodge 2003 1500 with 4wd. except you have to shift the transfer case into 4wd when you need it. i only need 4wd for plowing my driveway. fairly flat/level driveway. i have no problems plowing. is there any difference between 4wd-h and 4wd-l on the transfer case shift lever i know that one is used for intance if youre already out driving on the road and want to shift into 4wd. my question is - do both the h and l perform the same thing when the truck is in 4wd another question is why is there some tire spinning/slipping when im navigating a sharp turn from the back of the garage around to the side garage in driveway on paved surface. the truck is barely moving because its a tight turn. my 1979 never did any tire spinning. do they make 4wd trucks weaker than they used to the last question is while driving on a stone/dirt road that is just at the start of driving up a mountain near a ski resort in the finger lakes in ny......i began in 2wd and felt it needed 4wd. i put it in 4wd but it kept popping out and into n. i finally had to cram it in 4wd and keep holding it while driving up and up for about 2 miles before i got to my friends house. then it was another .25 mile up their driveway. is that a common thing that the gears wont engage actually my grandam navigates that road better than the truck. thanks for reading marina .
From : tbone
off road welding inc wrote help our shop recently extended a mega cab. when the truck is running the flashers and blinkers do not work!!! however when the truck is not running they work fine !!!! keep in mind we touched nothing electrical and disconneted all power when welding. thanks i think your problem is *because* you didnt touch anything electrical. wires dont like to be stretched. -- ken .
From : steve lusardi
pressure test on what compression tests wont show oil rings or valve stem seals into the combustion chamber. im not sure what to get a pressure test on exactly. cooling system. if you are getting a what you believe to be a abnormal amount of vapor from your exhaust you can help find or eliminate one of the sources by a testing your cooling system. i went back out and started the engine after we drove it from my daughters apartment to here about 15 minutes. there was nothing visible from the exhaust stream this time. on the way here it seemed like a lot though. if this is something new id get a pressure test done just to be safe. thanks for the test suggestion. that makes a lot of sense. i will try that this afternoon when i get some time to work on it. is there any test that can be performed to verify oil smoke from the tail pipe besides just looking at it the clim