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heading out

From : nathan w collier

Q: remindes me of the days working in the gravel pit. we had a new pit foreman and he managed to park two different trucks under the same loader in one years time. i guess some people never learn or maybe the loader operator really disliked the foreman. .


From : terra

how does this gvw stuff work. i went to our local land fill the other day and i happen to take note of the weight on the way out there scale said 2200 kg 48xx lbs. my door frame sticker says 26xx kgs 56xx lbs gvw. i have been looking at travel trailers and i am concerned about this gvw stuff. one note the gvw on the door sticker also lists tire size at 15 came from the factory with 16 will the tire size increase give me a higher gvw. my understanding about gvw is the total combined weight of the whole rig truck trailer wife kids beer beer beer did i mention i correct if so i can only have a trailer that weighs about 100 lb no wife no kids need room for beer please clarify this sombody kevin campbell hi kevin here is a good web site to read that gives some really good information about weight definitions. good luck!! http// .

From : rather b beachen

ive scanned the 26000 + messages since sometime in 2002 and havent found a problem such as mine described or solutions suggested. so here goes vehicle description 1974 dodge b300 1-ton maxivan. 318 automatic no factory air. engine had a good rebuild at 91000 current odo reading 179000 southern california vehicle all its life as far as i know. im the second owner. everything sounds good - no clatters or knocks anywhere carter bbd 2-bbl carburetor dual exhaust no crossover pipe vapor cannister and pcv are the only emission controls i know of this truck ever having. no evidence of anything being removed. ive owned it for 19 years. it used to run great. the problem ive been experiencing an increasing occurence of backfire through the carburetor. the weird thing is that it doesnt do it on acceleration or deceleration just at cruise speed. it doesnt matter what the cruise speed is - if i go 50 it starts to splut and backfire at 50. if i cruise at 75 same thing. if i could keep a constant acceration going it runs great. going up a grade i couldnt expect better performance. the carburetor is a holley-rebuilt. its not a holley carb - just rebuilt by them. cost nearly $200.00. in doing some investigating i found a gasket missing from under the step-up piston cover plate. made me wonder what else wasnt done right. i checked the float level and it was 1/8 low 1/4 is spec. i reset it and things seemed to be a bit better but it didnt cure the backfire at cruise speed. ive put on new plugs cap rotor ignition module coil plug wires. timing is dead on at factory spec of 0. vacuum advance is working properly advance weights are free and recently lubricated. when i put in new plugs champion n11y as per oem spec all the old plugs were white and had some blistering evidence of perhaps advanced timing and/or lean mixture. all the intake manifold bolts are tight. im starting to see some whitening of the metal of the choke stove well in the intake manifold. when i put a vacuum gauge on it i get a little fluctuation 3-6 in. at idle. other vacuum tests seem to check out fine. compression check shows one cylinder at about 90 others at between 130-150. im about ready to give up. can anybody point me in the right direction what other tests can i do does this sound like a carburetor or intake problem the questions keep coming - any advice or suggestions are welcome. thanks greatly. t maki riverside ca .

From : jack

as i was driving home i heard a sudden grinding noise from the front of my truck. i pulled over and was horrified to see my front drivers side tire leaning at about 15. i looked and saw my ball joints were still intact. i drove it like that for a couple miles to get home. im sure that wasnt the smartest thing to do but as luck would have it im not the smartest guy and i do stupid stuff on a regular basis. when i got home i got out to look at it. i was down under it when i heard a hissing noise and fluid began to leak from what i guess is the axle tube. evidently i lost a seal from either the axle not being supported on one end by the wheel bearing or the heat it created driving it like that. i took off the tire the brake caliper and the rotor but there was not enough room to pull the axle out. i unbolted the center section which sits behind the rotor and pulled this piece out. now i was able to pull out the axle. i can see down the axle tube and all appears to be clean there as does the axle itself. from looking at the axle i assume that the seal that i lost is deep in the tube near the differential because the end of the axle is very clean for about the first 4 inches or so but after that theres light rust on it. what do you have to do to replace the seal can i do it without pulling the whole front end out thanks for your help. i

From : jack

i doubt that gary was any more surprised that you commented about our comments on gregs hypocrisy than i was surprised that you let greg make crude comments on my reconstruction of my cushman without your guidance. yes you are as hypocritical as greg. do you also look up to al bundy as a role model budd jerry wrote why am i not surprised.............. jerry -- character is doing the right thing when nobody is looking. character is doing the right thing period. .

From : rather b beachen

usually when the clutch cycles quickly it is a sign the system is low on freon. did you actually have a set of gauges on the high and low side to check the pressures if the pressures are ok and the clutch kicks out quickly you may have a pressure switch going bad. denny a question for the group re a/c; vehicle is a 99 1500 qc w/ 5.9 the a/c stopped blowing cold. line pressure measures ok. the only visual symptom i can see is the a/c compressor clutch cycles on then off very rapidly when the a/c is switched to max a/c. thinking it was the relay i swapped that out but the rapid on/off cycling continues any suggestions before i go to dealer and bend over tia doug .