do it yourself powder coating
From : beekeep
Q: for those of you interested in do it yourself powder coating. i bought one of those cheap powder coating machines from harbor freight for about $60 on sale. i had an old lab oven that i had bought at a govt auction for $5. it had a bad thermostat which i replaced with a temperature controller and thermocouple that i bought on ebay for about $25 shipped to my door. im sure an old discarded electric kitchen oven would work as well. i picked up 5 pounds of powder on ebay as well which ran around $27 with shipping. 5 pounds is a lot of powder. i dont think i used more than an ounce or two today. i had a bunch of small parts for the 76 sporty that needed to be coated. i stripped and sanded all the parts prior to coating. the system was very easy to use! the powder went on very evenly. it was then baked @ 375 for 15 minutes. the parts came out shiney and smooth ready to be installed. no long waiting for paint to cure. no worry about dust as the paint cures. no mixing paint and no waste as what you dont use is just left in the canister with a cap on it. cleanup was a snap too! just take off the powder canister and blow everything out with compressed air. no solvents needed. cleanup took less than 10 minutes. powder coating is very doable in any small shop. over all i was very pleased. after a few more uses the system will have paid for itself. i have a refrigerator that is being made into an oven as well. i think it will be able to handle something as large as a frame. total cost was about $120 with parts off of ebay. beekeep .
Replies:
From : bryan swadener
i like it! for those of you interested in do it yourself powder coating. i bought one of those cheap powder coating machines from harbor freight for about $60 on sale. i had an old lab oven that i had bought at a govt auction for $5. it had a bad thermostat which i replaced with a temperature controller and thermocouple that i bought on ebay for about $25 shipped to my door. im sure an old discarded electric kitchen oven would work as well. i picked up 5 pounds of powder on ebay as well which ran around $27 with shipping. 5 pounds is a lot of powder. i dont think i used more than an ounce or two today. i had a bunch of small parts for the 76 sporty that needed to be coated. i stripped and sanded all the parts prior to coating. the system was very easy to use! the powder went on very evenly. it was then baked @ 375 for 15 minutes. the parts came out shiney and smooth ready to be installed. no long waiting for paint to cure. no worry about dust as the paint cures. no mixing paint and no waste as what you dont use is just left in the canister with a cap on it. cleanup was a snap too! just take off the powder canister and blow everything out with compressed air. no solvents needed. cleanup took less than 10 minutes. powder coating is very doable in any small shop. over all i was very pleased. after a few more uses the system will have paid for itself. i have a refrigerator that is being made into an oven as well. i think it will be able to handle something as large as a frame. total cost was about $120 with parts off of ebay. beekeep .
From : mac davis
on fri 16 apr 2004 000116 gmt honeybs@radix.net beekeep wrote great post bk! would that system work well for wheels for those of you interested in do it yourself powder coating. i bought one of those cheap powder coating machines from harbor freight for about $60 on sale. i had an old lab oven that i had bought at a govt auction for $5. it had a bad thermostat which i replaced with a temperature controller and thermocouple that i bought on ebay for about $25 shipped to my door. im sure an old discarded electric kitchen oven would work as well. i picked up 5 pounds of powder on ebay as well which ran around $27 with shipping. 5 pounds is a lot of powder. i dont think i used more than an ounce or two today. i had a bunch of small parts for the 76 sporty that needed to be coated. i stripped and sanded all the parts prior to coating. the system was very easy to use! the powder went on very evenly. it was then baked @ 375 for 15 minutes. the parts came out shiney and smooth ready to be installed. no long waiting for paint to cure. no worry about dust as the paint cures. no mixing paint and no waste as what you dont use is just left in the canister with a cap on it. cleanup was a snap too! just take off the powder canister and blow everything out with compressed air. no solvents needed. cleanup took less than 10 minutes. powder coating is very doable in any small shop. over all i was very pleased. after a few more uses the system will have paid for itself. i have a refrigerator that is being made into an oven as well. i think it will be able to handle something as large as a frame. total cost was about $120 with parts off of ebay. beekeep mac .
From : beekeep
on fri 16 apr 2004 141248 -0400 curmudgeon gary@nospam.com wrote youre only limited by the size of your oven. when i get the refrigerator oven up and running i will take some pictures and share those results as well. i currently waiting on a 4000 watt heating element that i bought on ebay to finish it. beekeep .
From : curmudgeon
youre only limited by the size of your oven. on fri 16 apr 2004 000116 gmt honeybs@radix.net beekeep wrote great post bk! would that system work well for wheels for those of you interested in do it yourself powder coating. i bought one of those cheap powder coating machines from harbor freight for about $60 on sale. i had an old lab oven that i had bought at a govt auction for $5. it had a bad thermostat which i replaced with a temperature controller and thermocouple that i bought on ebay for about $25 shipped to my door. im sure an old discarded electric kitchen oven would work as well. i picked up 5 pounds of powder on ebay as well which ran around $27 with shipping. 5 pounds is a lot of powder. i dont think i used more than an ounce or two today. i had a bunch of small parts for the 76 sporty that needed to be coated. i stripped and sanded all the parts prior to coating. the system was very easy to use! the powder went on very evenly. it was then baked @ 375 for 15 minutes. the parts came out shiney and smooth ready to be installed. no long waiting for paint to cure. no worry about dust as the paint cures. no mixing paint and no waste as what you dont use is just left in the canister with a cap on it. cleanup was a snap too! just take off the powder canister and blow everything out with compressed air. no solvents needed. cleanup took less than 10 minutes. powder coating is very doable in any small shop. over all i was very pleased. after a few more uses the system will have paid for itself. i have a refrigerator that is being made into an oven as well. i think it will be able to handle something as large as a frame. total cost was about $120 with parts off of ebay. beekeep mac .
From : transurgeon
on fri 16 apr 2004 141248 -0400 curmudgeon gary@nospam.com wrote youre only limited by the size of your oven. when i get the refrigerator oven up and running i will take some pictures and share those results as well. i currently waiting on a 4000 watt heating element that i bought on ebay to finish it. you aint gonna do shit boy you cant powder-coat anything without an electrostatic charge to keep the powder in the object being coated go peddle your bullshit somehwere else .
From : jerry
transurgeon wrote on fri 16 apr 2004 141248 -0400 curmudgeon gary@nospam.com wrote youre only limited by the size of your oven. when i get the refrigerator oven up and running i will take some pictures and share those results as well. i currently waiting on a 4000 watt heating element that i bought on ebay to finish it. you aint gonna do shit boy you cant powder-coat anything without an electrostatic charge to keep the powder in the object being coated go peddle your bullshit somehwere else oh for christs sakes gary stop making yourself look like a total ass with comments you know nothing about just because you have a hair up your ass about him. i taught metal flame spray operations to navy personal for years using flame spray guns aluminum wire or powder depending on what was wanted and a electrostatic charge is not required. all that was required for the industrial application we done was the gun oxygen acetylene high pressure air and of course the type of coating material required. the key is the preparation of the object being coated which in our case we sand blasted the object with aluminum oxide and if i read right what he is saying he used oven heating for curing in place of a flame spray gun. jerry .
From : beekeep
on fri 16 apr 2004 210812 gmt transbutcher nobulltrans@mchsi.com wrote on fri 16 apr 2004 141248 -0400 curmudgeon gary@nospam.com wrote youre only limited by the size of your oven. when i get the refrigerator oven up and running i will take some pictures and share those results as well. i currently waiting on a 4000 watt heating element that i bought on ebay to finish it. you aint gonna do shit boy you cant powder-coat anything without an electrostatic charge to keep the powder in the object being coated go peddle your bullshit somehwere else and if you had read the original post you wouldnt have posted this and looked like an ass. beekeep .
From : beekeep
on sat 17 apr 2004 075427 -0700 big al nospamsal1@qwest.net wrote if you need to go 375-400 degrees a refrigerator might not be a good choice. what kind or refrigerator how much plastic is inside al i completly removed the interior liner to get all the wires and any other burnables out. a pieces of sheetmetal were added to the liner before it was reinstalled to cover the holes left. sheetmetal angle was used to replace the plastic around the edges. the doors were removed and made into one door with one piece of sheetmetal on the inside. high temperature woodstove gasket material was used for the new seal and exterior clasp latches were added. it is basically a metal box with 1 1/2 of fiberglass with a metal liner. beekeep .
From : beekeep
on sun 18 apr 2004 092456 -0400 kens nospam@4me wrote interesting oven idea greg. i bought one of those machines last year from harbor freight but only have used it for small parts since i am using a modified large toaster oven to bake the parts. i need a larger oven to do more. btw they dont exactly give away the powder... iirc it was about 10 bucks for a little can. i will have to check ebay and hope i dont compete with you. ken it depends on what you buy. colors can be bought 5 lbs for $20. chrome for $20 for 2 pounds. the candys are a bit more. beekeep .
From : kens nospam 4me
interesting oven idea greg. i bought one of those machines last year from harbor freight but only have used it for small parts since i am using a modified large toaster oven to bake the parts. i need a larger oven to do more. btw they dont exactly give away the powder... iirc it was about 10 bucks for a little can. i will have to check ebay and hope i dont compete with you. ken on sat 17 apr 2004 075427 -0700 big al nospamsal1@qwest.net wrote if you need to go 375-400 degrees a refrigerator might not be a good choice. what kind or refrigerator how much plastic is inside al i completly removed the interior liner to get all the wires and any other burnables out. a pieces of sheetmetal were added to the liner before it was reinstalled to cover the holes left. sheetmetal angle was used to replace the plastic around the edges. the doors were removed and made into one door with one piece of sheetmetal on the inside. high temperature woodstove gasket material was used for the new seal and exterior clasp latches were added. it is basically a metal box with 1 1/2 of fiberglass with a metal liner. beekeep .
From : steve w
big difference between flame spray and straight powder coat. as someone who has done both and has over 12 years in a powder and liquid paint shop and as a holder of a few patents on powder coating gear and powders i can say that. -- steve transurgeon wrote on fri 16 apr 2004 141248 -0400 curmudgeon gary@nospam.com wrote youre only limited by the size of your oven. when i get the refrigerator oven up and running i will take some pictures and share those results as well. i currently waiting on a 4000 watt heating element that i bought on ebay to finish it. you aint gonna do shit boy you cant powder-coat anything without an electrostatic charge to keep the powder in the object being coated go peddle your bullshit somehwere else oh for christs sakes gary stop making yourself look like a total ass with comments you know nothing about just because you have a hair up your ass about him. i taught metal flame spray operations to navy personal for years using flame spray guns aluminum wire or powder depending on what was wanted and a electrostatic charge is not required. all that was required for the industrial application we done was the gun oxygen acetylene high pressure air and of course the type of coating material required. the key is the preparation of the object being coated which in our case we sand blasted the object with aluminum oxide and if i read right what he is saying he used oven heating for curing in place of a flame spray gun. jerry -----= posted via feeds.com uncensored usenet =----- http//www.feeds.com - the #1 group service in the world! -----== over 100000 groups - 19 different servers! =----- .
From : jerry
steve w. wrote big difference between flame spray and straight powder coat. as someone who has done both and has over 12 years in a powder and liquid paint shop and as a holder of a few patents on powder coating gear and powders i can say that. then you should know the differences simply are in the gear preparation and media being applied. other than that there are not a whole lot of differences between the two as a industrial application and certainly not a big difference. if you are ever in san diego and if they are still in business take a trip over to flame spray incorporated and im sure they will be happy to give you a tour where you will see the two applications being done side by side .......... i can say that. bottom line is im sure you are aware the object being coated doesnt have to be electrostatic charged only has to be grounded. the powder is charged with static electricity as it leaves the gun. that was the indication from someone only interested in a pissing contest. jerry .
From : steve w
i have done both types myself also fluidized bed e-coat ceramic spray plating along with some anodizing. we ran 7 coating lines and 4 separate batch booths. was nice having access to all the toys. those differences in gearprep and media are big differences. about the only common item between them is a fluidizer for powder. standard powder can be applied to anything that can withstand the cure temp. of the powder one of mine will cure at under 250 in less than 10 minutes we actually used it to paint wood. as far as having the part grounded that depends on whether it is preheated or not. but for the best coverage and lowest powder usage it is best to apply powder to a grounded object preferably with few 90 degree internal corners to eliminate the repellent effects of the charge i do have a gun here that does not charge the powder it is designed for use on static or voltage sensitive items. -- steve williams steve w. wrote big difference between flame spray and straight powder coat. as someone who has done both and has over 12 years in a powder and liquid paint shop and as a holder of a few patents on powder coating gear and powders i can say that. then you should know the differences simply are in the gear preparation and media being applied. other than that there are not a whole lot of differences between the two as a industrial application and certainly not a big difference. if you are ever in san diego and if they are still in business take a trip over to flame spray incorporated and im sure they will be happy to give you a tour where you will see the two applications being done side by side .......... i can say that. bottom line is im sure you are aware the object being coated doesnt have to be electrostatic charged only has to be grounded. the powder is charged with static electricity as it leaves the gun. that was the indication from someone only interested in a pissing contest. jerry -----= posted via feeds.com uncensored usenet =----- http//www.feeds.com - the #1 group service in the world! -----== over 100000 groups - 19 different servers! =----- .
From : jerry
steve w. wrote i have done both types myself also fluidized bed e-coat ceramic spray plating along with some anodizing. we ran 7 coating lines and 4 separate batch booths. was nice having access to all the toys. those differences in gearprep and media are big differences. about the only common item between them is a fluidizer for powder. standard powder can be applied to anything that can withstand the cure temp. of the powder one of mine will cure at under 250 in less than 10 minutes we actually used it to paint wood. as far as having the part grounded that depends on whether it is preheated or not. but for the best coverage and lowest powder usage it is best to apply powder to a grounded object preferably with few 90 degree internal corners to eliminate the repellent effects of the charge i do have a gun here that does not charge the powder it is designed for use on static or voltage sensitive items. you are correct there certainly is a difference between the two but i dont consider the difference major once you are familiar on how to do the two. once i set up a shop in alameda for the engineers to metal flame spray engine room and fireroom steam valves. at the time we were using 12e spray guns so as you can imagine that was a little time ago. anyway a lot of the work those guys done is still operating in perfect cond
From : steve w
we had a lot of beer work sliding around there. the owners didnt mind as long as it didnt screw up production. we ran some older guns and booths since they were made better and had user replaceable parts. most of the newer guns had the powder path cast in the body. no inserts or anything. after a while they just wore out. one of the things i developed was a process to bore and sleeve them to use standard inserts in the powder path. made a gun last a long time that way. for a production shop the differences are nothing major but for a home user they can be a big problem. id hate to see someone trying aluminum flame spray at home in their garage. or doing powder coat and using the wifes oven to bake the parts. that could cause a few problems i hate plastic flavored pizza.... -- steve williams near cooperstown ny steve w. wrote i have done both types myself also fluidized bed e-coat ceramic spray plating along with some anodizing. we ran 7 coating lines and 4 separate batch booths. was nice having access to all the toys. those differences in gearprep and media are big differences. about the only common item between them is a fluidizer for powder. standard powder can be applied to anything that can withstand the cure temp. of the powder one of mine will cure at under 250 in less than 10 minutes we actually used it to paint wood. as far as having the part grounded that depends on whether it is preheated or not. but for the best coverage and lowest powder usage it is best to apply powder to a grounded object preferably with few 90 degree internal corners to eliminate the repellent effects of the charge i do have a gun here that does not charge the powder it is designed for use on static or voltage sensitive items. you are correct there certainly is a difference between the two but i dont consider the difference major once you are familiar on how to do the two. once i set up a shop in alameda for the engineers to metal flame spray engine room and fireroom steam valves. at the time we were using 12e spray guns so as you can imagine that was a little time ago. anyway a lot of the work those guys done is still operating in perfect condition without a sign of rust which is what they were preventing. saw a few headers and exhaust systems slide out the back door all nice and pretty while the sailors thought i wasnt looking. jerry -----= posted via feeds.com uncensored usenet =----- http//www.feeds.com - the #1 group service in the world! -----== over 100000 groups - 19 different servers! =----- .
From : big al
if you need to go 375-400 degrees a refrigerator might not be a good choice. what kind or refrigerator how much plastic is inside al .