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differential problems in a 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 sport

From : Annonymous

Q: on the 97 dakota the manual states that you can still read the tcs with the mil light by turning the ignition off on 3 times. the dlc connector diagram shows terminal 12 as the rwal diagnostic enable but does not indicate if it should be jumped to ground or 12v+. it does not indicate codes by just turning the key - on off on off on. i know on the gm vehicles you had to insert a jumper to get the mil to display. the 98 and later dakotas must use a scan tool. i have ordered a scan tool but would like to use the mil light for now to check out what is setting the code. thanks for any info about this you could provide. dj .

Replies:

From : chris thompson

hedman headers references a set of ceramic headers that will fit the a-type engine for my year. 360 4bbl how do i determine what the a-type is and whether i have it. it does not seem to be vin # related according to the vin decoders i located via google for my year. automatic transmission maybe .

From : marcus

yea that sounds like the consensus. i also read about the different oil filters and they listed the fram filters as one of the worst. i replaced it with a mobil1 filter made by champion and the oil pressure increased by 25psi. now it rides at 3000rps at 45psi after reaching normal operating temperature where it was riding at 20psi. it would start cold and run right at 40psi and now when the engine is first started cold it runs 60-65psi. the filter made that much difference. i got the mobil1 because i couldnt get a wix at the local parts store. i found out the napa gold filters are actually wix filters with the napa gold branding. the whole oil pressure problem started after an oil change at texaco quicl lube. it would sit on 0 psi at idle. i swaped it out for the fram extra guard and then had the oil pressure riding at the low end of the scale. i have never had a problem with the oil pressure in my other trucks not a dodge running fram filters so i didnt know about the huge difference a filter can make. remember also that the worst wear occurs on cold startup. 5w30 would be best for an engine in good condition since it would minimize startup wear and still increase its viscosity to the higher number as engine temperature builds. 20w50 would result in poor flow on startup with increased wear as a result. as the miles on the engine climb higher and clearances increase 10w30 might be a good step since its a smaller range of viscosity and therefore should have less additives which contribute to deposits. what do you think dj wrote my truck calls for 10w-30 and in florida i dont need to worry about operation below freezing hardly at all. i have been running 20w-50 in most of my trucks because it often sees operation in temperatures above 90 degrees and above 100 in the summer. i know that on startu-up 10w-30 reaches the bearings quicker but wouldnt 20w-50 give it more protection in high heat conditions also i noticed the new 5w-30 oils out there. all data has the 5w-30 listed as an option in my truck. is there any advantage to 5w-30 over the others i would think the thinner oil wouldnt protect as well under harsh conditions like 4 wheeling or towing a trailer. i would appreciate you comments. i currently run castrol 20w-50. i would never use quaker state after rebuilding my fair share of quaker state engines with an inch or two of sludge build up from the parafins in qs. you need just enough viscosity to maintain proper pressure and no more. extra thick oil does not provide extra protection it takes more energy to move it around and puts excess strain on the pump and pump drive mechanisms. i run 5w-30 in my truck year round. in the summer i often tow a trailer in temps to the high 90s. in the winter it only gets down to about 0*. oil pressure is always right where it should be. still running great after 82k miles. -- .bob 2006 fxdi hot rod 2001 dodge dakota qc 5.9/4x4/3.92 1966 mustang coupe - daily driver 1965 ffr cobra - 427w efi damn fast. .

From : Annonymous

you have the la low deck a series engine and they will fit. the a series engines were the early 1950s hemis and the polyhead engines and the la series includes the 273-318-340-360 engines the 3.2- 3.6- 3.9 l magnums and the 8l v-10. budd hedman headers references a set of ceramic headers that will fit the a-type engine for my year. 360 4bbl how do i determine what the a-type is and whether i have it. it does not seem to be vin # related according to the vin decoders i located via google for my year. automatic transmission maybe -- posted via a free usenet account from http//www.tera.com .

From : bdk

my truck calls for 10w-30 and in florida i dont need to worry about operation below freezing hardly at all. i have been running 20w-50 in most of my trucks because it often sees operation in temperatures above 90 degrees and above 100 in the summer. i know that on startu-up 10w-30 reaches the bearings quicker but wouldnt 20w-50 give it more protection in high heat conditions also i noticed the new 5w-30 oils out there. all data has the 5w-30 listed as an option in my truck. is there any advantage to 5w-30 over the others i would think the thinner oil wouldnt protect as well under harsh conditions like 4 wheeling or towing a trailer. i would appreciate you comments. i currently run castrol 20w-50. i would never use quaker state after rebuilding my fair share of quaker state engines with an inch or two of sludge build up from the parafins in qs. .