broken spark plug
From : muat
Q: i have a dodge raider with a broken spark plug in the engine. does anyone have any suggestions on how to get it out hopefully just the porcelain end is broke and the nut head is still there if so just us your spark plug socket with an extension to get some leverage. if you totally twisted the nut head off leaving the threads you will need to use an easyout tool to remove the rest of the plug. -- coasty remove the spooge to reply .
Replies:
From : rix53
spicy chicken cards new characters! new kama sutra humor! new hillbilliy cards! please visit http//www.spicychickencards.com for some whacked out hip and edgy animated greeting cards. very funny characters. humor with an often offensive punch line! were just too cluckin funny! spicy chicken cards.com .
From : edtheward
does this light indicate that my tailgate is open knowing what kind of vehicle youre talking about would help... .
From : rix53
john wrote i was planning on removing the axles too. im not sure if the front differential will leak oil at the output shafts once the yokes are removed. is it safe to say the yoke will not stay in without the axles in place the wheel yoke will stay in place but the diff would leak oil like a sieve whithout axles in place. if you are serious you should look for a tube axle used in some models or dodge pickups with 2wd 3500 models in the 90s as it would be eaier to mod and de mod the truck that way if you got a complete front tube axle. ----------------- www.thesnoman.com .
From : bdk
those are called anti-rattle clips. -- laszlo almasi carolina watercraft works inc. in the battle between money and love money will always triumph i may have to change my signature......on second thought i was right the first time. i had the front brakes done on my 02 durango a couple of months ago. about 2-3 weeks ago i was hearing what sounded like a rattling coming from the drivers side. this was when i went over bumps driving around town. i took it to my mechanic and they adjusted some dust shields and wheel well shields in the front tire areas and i thought that would take care of it. however the next day i heard the noise again called my mechanic and they suggested i take it back to my dealer which is what i did. they found that some clips were missing on the left front side that hold the pad in place. i took it back to my mechanic again since they did the brakes originally and they put the clips in place. since then ive had no problems. i dont know if this is the same for you but its something to inquire about. hello i replaced the front break on my 2002 dodge grant caravan with a new pair of pads with the rotors tuned last weekend. i checked and everything seemed to be done properly. but i noticed that when i applied the break especially when going downhill a kind of rattling noise came from one side of the break. this happened only when the break was applied somewhat heavily. i double-checked calipers rotors etc. and their installation and couldnt find nothing wrong. i would appreciate any advice or insights. thanks. - p .
From : cricket
one thing that bothers me is the routing is through the radiator. that would seem to prevent the tranny fluid from ever cooling below the water temp which is 200+. which has been both blessing and failure.... in the winter it might actually help to warm the fluid depending on lattitude of location. its also notable that engines run warmer now than they did in the 70s because of emissions designs. -- max give a man a match and he is warm for a short while. light him on fire and he is warm for the rest of his life. max dodge wrote because they arent smart enough to buy the towing package or they buy a used truck that doesnt have it. or the factory cooler is insufficient. i have the factory cooler on my 2001 ram qc 1500. i also put a deep mag-hytech pan on the tranny and a temp guage. it runs hot. when pulling my trailer up grades in the summer it will climb to 240+. i have no idea why as several techs have said the factory cooler should be sufficient. one thing that bothers me is the routing is through the radiator. that would seem to prevent the tranny fluid from ever cooling below the water temp which is 200+. .
From : Annonymous
hello... couple questions for the transmission gurus around here. first off my truck is a 2000 ram ctd quadcab shortbed 3.55 gears all stock 61000 miles. i plan on doing the 60k service which includes transmission fluid filter and adjust bands. the transmission seems fine...upshifts and downshifts great and no shudder or slippage. after talking to a couple shops seems like i have 2-3 alternatives to attack the transmission. 1 drop pan and change filter reinstall and add fluid.could also have shop lower valve body to get even more fluid out. 2 leave pan installed and use a flush machine to circulate new +4 oil into the tranny. 3a local shop suggested using their flush machine to circulateclean and refill using atf+3 and a friction modifier lubeguard 63010 the shop owner has a ram and said thats all hes ever done to his truck and its fine.he even went as far as to say lubeguard gaurantees my transmission after the product is installed. my choice so far is number 2....seems like using brand new oil throughout the tranny would be besteven though there is a downside of not changing the screen. my concern with this approach also is the flush machine connections at the cooler. is there any chance of damage to connections or possibly loosening something that could cause engine coolant to contaminate transmission oil next question...do my bands need attention even if it seems to shift fine sorry for the long post and alsothanks in advance for taking time for me. .
From : monk
hi russ ! looks like we have similar situations i to have just bought a 1978 dodge tradesman b200 class b motorhomewith a near mint state body wise and 86000 km on it. but mine is a 5.9 litres 360 hp with a double barrel carb. mine also starts instantly and runs smooth until i depress the accelerator......then it chokes and dies on me if i dont decelerate it seem to refuse to take the effort to accelerate straight down to the floor. i have checked for proper firering order checked the distributor cap and componets inside rotor & stator i have a haynes dodge and plymouth vans 1971 thru 2003 repair manual not the best apparently but its the only manual i could get my hands on fast since i am not a mechanic i just hapenned to check out this group and found you and your situation.similar to mine ! i will check on the gaz pump like john mentionned and the timing chain like denny mentionned but it will be sometimes this coming week before i get back to you guys on the results. i have found a chrysler mechanic that works exclusively on chrysler motors he work at a chrysler deaslership and helps poor guys like us that hate paying for dealership exorbitant hourly pricing rate. looking forward to find a remedy for our situation......in the meantime its nice reading that i am not the onlyone with my problem. regards ....j-p. 1126865369.682779.97690@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com... i just bought a 1978 factory custom dodge van in mint condition. it has been garaged the whole time. most of the time the first owner drove it 1 -2 times a year. it has 63000.miles on the 400 big block!!! i couldnt leave the 2 bbl on itand changed it to a edelbrock 4 bbl and ed. performer intake. the van always hesitated when you gave it the gas. thats why i really put the 4 bbl on it. now if you give it the gas it still hesitates and if you press the gas peddle too much it will back fire. it idles very smooth and starts the first shot every time. i changed everything! wires plugs vacume controll cap rotor set the timing. now i just start the van it the yard. i dont take it out so there will be no damage to the motor. i need some help. just ask me any question to see if i had replaced it or checked it. it looks like i am going to have to bring it to a shop. thanks russ .
From : snoman
azwiley1@cox.net wrote i just thought i would share with everyone that i had my funeral err... i mean wedding this weekend. first comes love then comes marriange then comes larry pushing the baby carriage congratulations to the both of you dale .
From : Annonymous
when you have a tranny rebuild by one of the well known rebuilders they install a converter that has a drain plug. my 1996 2500 diesel was rebuilt by pro-lock out ft. walton beach fl. it had a converter drain plug. .
From : snoman
jim schultz wrote hello... couple questions for the transmission gurus around here. first off my truck is a 2000 ram ctd quadcab shortbed 3.55 gears all stock 61000 miles. i plan on doing the 60k service which includes transmission fluid filter and adjust bands. the transmission seems fine...upshifts and downshifts great and no shudder or slippage. after talking to a couple shops seems like i have 2-3 alternatives to attack the transmission. 1 drop pan and change filter reinstall and add fluid.could also have shop lower valve body to get even more fluid out. 2 leave pan installed and use a flush machine to circulate new +4 oil into the tranny. 3a local shop suggested using their flush machine to circulateclean and refill using atf+3 and a friction modifier lubeguard 63010 the shop owner has a ram and said thats all hes ever done to his truck and its fine.he even went as far as to say lubeguard gaurantees my transmission after the product is installed. my choice so far is number 2....seems like using brand new oil throughout the tranny would be besteven though there is a downside of not changing the screen. my concern with this approach also is the flush machine connections at the cooler. is there any chance of damage to connections or possibly loosening something that could cause engine coolant to contaminate transmission oil next question...do my bands need attention even if it seems to shift fine sorry for the long post and alsothanks in advance for taking time for me. none of the above. for over 25 years i have been changing the filter and topping off the fluid and i have a tranny in one old 4x4 that still works like new and it pushed snow for years too. it is best not to disturb valve body and there is pros and cons to flushing too. the only time i suggest a flush is when tranny have been cooked some and the fluid is discolored or burnt. if you want long tranny life install a aux tranny cooler if your truck does not already have one. -- posted using the http//www.autoforumz.com interface at authors request articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards topic url http//www.autoforumz.com/dodge-tranny-service-advice-ftopict138677.html visit topic url to contact author reg. reqd. report abuse http//www.autoforumz.com/eform.phpp=671812 .
From : coasty
is there an benefit to using synthetic oil in a dodge truck transmission i have a 97 dodge diesel 2500 automatic. .
From : edtheward
im not quite sure how it happened but a ruger super redhawk followed me home tonight. now if i just come up with a good explanation for the wife...... tell her it was either that or a new truck. it is a guy thing. ive been looking at the bushmaster line for somthing a bit heavier. a couple of guys i work with have bought a couple of different models and have been real happy with them. www.bushmaster.com roy denny .