broken brakes!!! Help!!!!

From : dittobillg

Q: i am one pod customer and im venting here. i bought a quality-s hitch for my 2001 durango. the hitch was supposed to be a bolt on model that fit durango model years 1998-2002. yeah right! this bolt on hitch didnt even come close to fitting. some holes didnt line up at all. in fact the passenger side mounting bracket couldnt even be put in place until i cut a piece of it off and cut moved and welded one of the bolt mounting points. the drivers side bracket went in just fine in only a couple minutes. its the passenger side that took all day yesterday. even out of the box the hitch had nasty scratches and a lof of the powdercoating was chipped. in fact i actually primed and painted the thing before i installed it it was that banged up. why didnt i return it cost too much to ship back. lucky for me i have a neighbor with his own machine shop so everything i needed band saw angle grinder arc welder was closeby. so if youre a durango owner and are looking for a hitch for your vehicle stay away from quality-s unless you want to re-engineer the thing for a custom fit. even at $70 new it was no bargain. thats what i get for going cheap i guess. i was so ticked off that when i painted the hitch i painted right over the quality-s label. theres no way i want my vehicle advertising for that company. yes i feel better now. thanks for asking. --dg .

Replies:

From : Annonymous

if the brake pedal does not fully return the weep hole in the master cylinder will not unport and release the pressure and the brakes will lock up when they get hot especially if the fluid is old and has some water absorbed. this is a length adjustment on the push rod between the booster and the master cylinder. also make sure the pedal return spring is not broken or the stop light switch is misadjusted preventing the full return of the pedal. when it locks up loosen the flare tube nuts on the master cylinder and if it unlocks it is the master cylinder otherwise it is the proportioning valve. on sun 19 oct 2003 175646 -0400 billg billg@blazeconnect.net wrote we have a 1976 motorhome on a dodge frame.....the brakes locked up...a guy told me to break open the bleeder if it shoots fluid is was the hose i did and it did...so after putting on new hoses...10 of new steel line...the brakes still lock up....where should i go next.....master cylinder proportioning valve...im big time lost....we would like to have it do so we can take it to rockingham for the race...any help ....im about to pull my hair out ...welll whats left of it! thanks... billg .

From : budd cochranbudd cochran

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From : marsh monster

======= bill jack the vehical up off the ground..... ... on the affected brake....do this....... step 1.... loosen the bleeder and see if the tire will spin. it should not turn...going by what you have posted. step 2... with the bleeder open.....using a fairly large flat-head screw driver.... pry between the inside brake pad and the caliper piston...attempting to press the piston into the caliper bore. if it does not compress....replace the caliper assembly. step 3.... if the caliper piston did compress.... pry between the outer brake pad and the caliper assembly....attempting to move the caliper assembly on its slides. if it did not move....disasemble the brakes and inspect the caliper assembly and slides for rust and corosion....cleanrepair or lube it whichever is necessary. if the piston in step 2 did move....then the caliper assembly is probly sticking due to rust or corosion. if the piston did not retract in step 2 then the caliper is frozen and needs replacing or rebuilding. side note..... all the above depends on the fact that when you first opened the bleeders....you were getting fluid out...and now you have replaced the bleeders and the steel lines. suggestions...... be sure that it isnt the rears locking up instead of the fronts. marsh monster walks over to bills motor home with a 5 pound sledge and pounds the rear brake backing plates on both sides to loosen up the frozen parking apply.....thatll be $89 please ======= edited billg@blazeconnect.net billg we have a vehical 1976 motorhome on a dodge frame..... symptom brakes locked up... diagnostic steps broke open the bleeder...... it shoots fluid repair steps taken new hoses... 10 of new steel line... post repair test drive the brakes still lock up.... cry of desperation where should i go next..... thanks... billg -- .

From : budd cochran

what if the brake in question is a drum brake which is common on the rear axles in 1976 you back off the brake shoe adjuster. -- budd cochran ======= bill jack the vehical up off the ground..... .. on the affected brake....do this....... step 1.... loosen the bleeder and see if the tire will spin. it should not turn...going by what you have posted. step 2... with the bleeder open.....using a fairly large flat-head screw driver.... pry between the inside brake pad and the caliper piston...attempting to press the piston into the caliper bore. if it does not compress....replace the caliper assembly. step 3.... if the caliper piston did compress.... pry between the outer brake pad and the caliper assembly....attempting to move the caliper assembly on its slides. if it did not move....disasemble the brakes and inspect the caliper assembly and slides for rust and corosion....cleanrepair or lube it whichever is necessary. if the piston in step 2 did move....then the caliper assembly is probly sticking due to rust or corosion. if the piston did not retract in step 2 then the caliper is frozen and needs replacing or rebuilding. side note..... all the above depends on the fact that when you first opened the bleeders....you were getting fluid out...and now you have replaced the bleeders and the steel lines. suggestions...... be sure that it isnt the rears locking up instead of the fronts. marsh monster walks over to bills motor home with a 5 pound sledge and pounds the rear brake backing plates on both sides to loosen up the frozen parking apply.....thatll be $89 please ======= edited billg@blazeconnect.net billg we have a vehical 1976 motorhome on a dodge frame..... symptom brakes locked up... diagnostic steps broke open the bleeder...... it shoots fluid repair steps taken new hoses... 10 of new steel line... post repair test drive the brakes still lock up.... cry of desperation where should i go next..... thanks... billg -- .

From : wrnch61

this may sound simplistic but all hydraulic brake systems are ventedusually at the mstr cyl cap or cover a very small orfice that can get clogged with enough dirt and crud. if this vent is plugged it may cause the brakes drag or not release properly. take the seal out of cover to find hole and clean as needed. have you replaced your brake fluid or just added we have a 1976 motorhome on a dodge frame.....the brakes locked up...a guy told me to break open the bleeder if it shoots fluid is was the hose i did and it did...so after putting on new hoses...10 of new steel line...the brakes still lock up....where should i go next.....master cylinder proportioning valve...im big time lost....we would like to have it do so we can take it to rockingham for the race...any help ....im about to pull my hair out ...welll whats left of it! thanks... billg -- www.geocities.com/bills69olds .

From : roybudd cochranbudd cochran

it is very obvious that tom is a professional and a gentleman also. every time there is a problem he is there with a no nonsense answer unlike some of the people that get into a flaming match that has no bearing on anything. my our highest thanks go out to you tom. ron yup tom certainly knows his stuff. now if hed only back away from his leather fetish. bfg roy .

From : tbone

im sorry to say this but that sounds like it came directly from the redneck school of hydraulics iow completely incorrect. while they all may be vented this vent has little to do with the normal braking and release operation of the brake system. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving this may sound simplistic but all hydraulic brake systems are ventedusually at the mstr cyl cap or cover a very small orfice that can get clogged with enough dirt and crud. if this vent is plugged it may cause the brakes drag or not release properly. take the seal out of cover to find hole and clean as needed. have you replaced your brake fluid or just added we have a 1976 motorhome on a dodge frame.....the brakes locked up...a guy told me to break open the bleeder if it shoots fluid is was the hose i did and it did...so after putting on new hoses...10 of new steel line...the brakes still lock up....where should i go next.....master cylinder proportioning valve...im big time lost....we would like to have it do so we can take it to rockingham for the race...any help ....im about to pull my hair out ...welll whats left of it! thanks... billg -- www.geocities.com/bills69olds .

From : scrib abell

the cover vent is there only to allow the cover seal to move as the fluid level drops. the seal needs to move to let more fluid into the system as required. if it gets plugged then youre not maintaining the vehicle properly as in checking all fluid levels regularly. -- budd cochran this may sound simplistic but all hydraulic brake systems are ventedusually at the mstr cyl cap or cover a very small orfice that can get clogged with enough dirt and crud. if this vent is plugged it may cause the brakes drag or not release properly. take the seal out of cover to find hole and clean as needed. have you replaced your brake fluid or just added we have a 1976 motorhome on a dodge frame.....the brakes locked up...a guy told me to break open the bleeder if it shoots fluid is was the hose i did and it did...so after putting on new hoses...10 of new steel line...the brakes still lock up....where should i go next.....master cylinder proportioning valve...im big time lost....we would like to have it do so we can take it to rockingham for the race...any help ....im about to pull my hair out ...welll whats left of it! thanks... billg -- www.geocities.com/bills69olds .

From : budd cochran

twice once when they werent well maintained on a friends car and a second time when they werent assembled correctly. and i did back off the adjuster in both cases to free the wheel. how else would you do it . . . short of a quarter stick of dynamite. you can also open the bleed screw if its not rusted solid but this will not release the brakes in all situations. now if there is hydraulic pressure holding the shoes to the drum and normal wear patterns on the inner surface of the drum you arent going to just slide it off to fix it. youre going to have to back the adjuster off. my post was to point out that the screwdriver prying technique will not work on drum brakes. possible causes of the pressure on drum or disk brakes not necessarily in order a swollen wheel cylinder cups or caliper cups not really hydraulic pressure but the shoes cannot retract. loosening the bleeder screw doesnt help here. b failed flexible hoses the braid has failed allowing the line to swell under pressure. c misadjusted master cylinder pushrod or incorrect pushrod not allowing pressure to bleed down. can also be caused by a weak pedal return spring if used. d bad vacuum booster valve causing continuous pressure on the brakes. -- budd cochran .. .. .. .. mr-d150spam@citlink.net budd cochran what if the brake in question is a drum brake which is common on the rear axles in 1976 you back off the brake shoe adjuster. -- budd cochran ========= no......you do not! then you do what marshmonster did and if that dont work you do a repost stating that youve been working on the wrong end of the vehical....but thanks to marshmonster you were steered in the right direction.. and now heres the new info needed to help with the diagnostics.... budd how many times have you ever seen a set of drum brakes over adjust themselves scribs abell r-u ================================= marsh monster bill jack the vehical up off the ground..... .. on the affected brake....do this....... step 1.... loosen the bleeder and see if the tire will spin. it should not turn...going by what you have posted. step 2... with the bleeder open.....using a fairly large flat-head screw driver.... pry between the inside brake pad and the caliper piston...attempting to press the piston into the caliper bore. if it does not compress....replace the caliper assembly. step 3.... if the caliper piston did compress.... pry between the outer brake pad and the caliper assembly....attempting to move the caliper assembly on its slides. if it did not move....disasemble the brakes and inspect the caliper assembly and slides for rust and corosion....cleanrepair or lube it whichever is necessary. if the piston in step 2 did move....then the caliper assembly is probly sticking due to rust or corosion. if the piston did not retract in step 2 then the caliper is frozen and needs replacing or rebuilding. side note..... all the above depends on the fact that when you first opened the bleeders....you were getting fluid out...and now you have replaced the bleeders and the steel lines. suggestions...... be sure that it isnt the rears locking up instead of the fronts. marsh monster walks over to bills motor home with a 5 pound sledge and pounds the rear brake backing plates on both sides to loosen up the frozen parking apply.....thatll be $89 please ======= edited billg@blazeconnect.net billg we have a vehical 1976 motorhome on a dodge frame..... symptom brakes locked up... diagnostic steps broke open the bleeder...... it shoots fluid repair steps taken new hoses... 10 of new steel line... post repair test drive the brakes still lock up.... cry of desperation where should i go next..... thanks... billg -- .

From : budd cochran

btw if hes not smart enough to jack up the vehicle before trying to work on it someone needs to take the tools away before he hurts himself. -- budd cochran .. .. .. .. mr-d150spam@citlink.net budd cochran what if the brake in question is a drum brake which is common on the rear axles in 1976 you back off the brake shoe adjuster. -- budd cochran ========= no......you do not! then you do what marshmonster did and if that dont work you do a repost stating that youve been working on the wrong end of the vehical....but thanks to marshmonster you were steered in the right direction.. and now heres the new info needed to help with the diagnostics.... budd how many times have you ever seen a set of drum brakes over adjust themselves scribs abell r-u ================================= marsh monster bill jack the vehical up off the ground..... .. on the affected brake....do this....... step 1.... loosen the bleeder and see if the tire will spin. it should not turn...going by what you have posted. step 2... with the bleeder open.....using a fairly large flat-head screw driver.... pry between the inside brake pad and the caliper piston...attempting to press the piston into the caliper bore. if it does not compress....replace the caliper assembly. step 3.... if the caliper piston did compress.... pry between the outer brake pad and the caliper assembly....attempting to move the caliper assembly on its slides. if it did not move....disasemble the brakes and inspect the caliper assembly and slides for rust and corosion....cleanrepair or lube it whichever is necessary. if the piston in step 2 did move....then the caliper assembly is probly sticking due to rust or corosion. if the piston did not retract in step 2 then the caliper is frozen and needs replacing or rebuilding. side note..... all the above depends on the fact that when you first opened the bleeders....you were getting fluid out...and now you have replaced the bleeders and the steel lines. suggestions...... be sure that it isnt the rears locking up instead of the fronts. marsh monster walks over to bills motor home with a 5 pound sledge and pounds the rear brake backing plates on both sides to loosen up the frozen parking apply.....thatll be $89 please ======= edited billg@blazeconnect.net billg we have a vehical 1976 motorhome on a dodge frame..... symptom brakes locked up... diagnostic steps broke open the bleeder...... it shoots fluid repair steps taken new hoses... 10 of new steel line... post repair test drive the brakes still lock up.... cry of desperation where should i go next..... thanks... billg -- .

From : scrib abell

.. .. .. .. mr-d150spam@citlink.net budd=a0cochran what if the brake in question is a drum brake which is common on the rear axles in 1976 you back off the brake shoe adjuster. -- budd cochran =3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d no......you do not! then you do what marshmonster did and if that dont work you do a repost stating that youve been working on the wrong end of the vehical....but thanks to marshmonster you were steered in the right direction.. and now heres the new info needed to help with the diagnostics.... budd how many times have you ever seen a set of drum brakes over adjust themselves scribs abell r-u =3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d= =3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d marsh monster bill =a0=a0=a0jack the vehical up off the ground..... .. on the affected brake....do this....... step 1.... loosen the bleeder and see if the tire will spin. it should not turn...going by what you have posted. step 2... with the bleeder open.....using a fairly large flat-head screw driver.... pry between the inside brake pad and the caliper piston...attempting to press the piston into the caliper bore. if it does not compress....replace the caliper assembly. step 3.... if the caliper piston did compress.... pry between the outer brake pad and the caliper assembly....attempting to move the caliper assembly on its slides. if it did not move....disasemble the brakes and inspect the caliper assembly and slides for rust and corosion....cleanrepair or lube it whichever is necessary. if the piston in step 2 did move....then the caliper assembly is probly sticking due to rust or corosion. if the piston did not retract in step 2 then the caliper is frozen and needs replacing or rebuilding. side note..... =a0=a0=a0=a0=a0=a0all the above depends on the fact that when you first opened the bleeders....you were getting fluid out...and now you have replaced the bleeders and the steel lines. suggestions...... =a0=a0=a0=a0=a0=a0=a0=a0=a0=a0=a0=a0=a0=a0be sure that it isnt the rears locking up instead of the fronts. marsh monster walks over to bills motor home with a 5 pound sledge and pounds the rear brake backing plates on both sides to loosen up the frozen parking apply.....thatll be $89 please =3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d edited billg@blazeconnect.net billg we have a vehical 1976 motorhome on a dodge frame..... symptom =a0brakes locked up... diagnostic steps =a0=a0=a0=a0broke open the bleeder...... it shoots fluid repair steps taken new hoses... 10 of new steel line... post repair test drive the brakes still lock up.... cry of desperation where should i go next..... thanks... billg -- .