aftermarket extended warranties
From : bb
Q: this is probably the same for all dodge 2500s as it looks like the fuse box is designed for multiple applications. my trailer power at the 7-prong plug is always hot. it should only be on when the engine is running. under the hood on the drivers side usa there is a box with fuses and relays where the main power distribution is. there is a fuse marked trailer power and if i pull that the trailer power goes dead. there is also a relay marked trailer power and if i pull that the trailer still has power. it should go on with the engine to charge the trailer batteries and go off when the engine is shut down to prevent draining the truck batteries when the trailer in this case a slide-in camper is parked. any suggestions thanks charles .
Replies:
From : ed h
hi folks! i am trying to determine the best way to hook up a set of running board lights to the interior lighting wiring harness. these fandangled vechiles are getting that much more difficult to pry apart anymore....so thought i would throw the question out there before i started tearing my hair out. anyone guidance would be greatly appreciated. t-man .
From : ed h
im not opposed to anyone making as much money as they can or as little as they want. i just think that most extended warranties will never be used and the seller of such knows it. imo its like agreeing to pay 10% or what ever above the list price. on sun 26 nov 2006 084757 -0500 roy roy@home.net wrote imo they only sell you an extended warranty because the seller makes money from it. they compare the cost of all the claims against the money they collect from all the contracts and in the end they show a profit. its similar to insurance but without governing laws and an insurance commissionar to oversee those laws. i never buy extended warranties for any product. that is a pretty limitted viewpoint. first you are absolutely right that the companies that sell extended warranties do so to make a profit. did you think they should do it because you are a good guy and they wanted to do a favor for a good guy look the only reason dodge makes trucks is to make money. whats the problem with that evertime extended warranties are brought up that is the biggest complaint. how stupid can that be for crying out loud folks what isnt built for a profit well.......ok........maybe the government. as for extended warranties everyone has an opinion on it. for me i consider the cost of the extended warranty against what i have to lose if the particular piece breaks. i dont buy extended warranties for most electronics because most electronics are now throwaways. if they break you are better off getting a new one. but if its a real expensive thing i would consider it depending on what the warranty would cost. i bought an extended warranty for my rv. the cost of the five year warranty was less than what one appliance would cost if it broke. gives me a little peice of mind i guess. i think the most important thing is to buy it from a good company. you would be surprised at the number of companies that come and go in the extended warranty field. it won;t do you any good if the company you bought the warranty from goes out of business. .
From : ed h
im not opposed to anyone making as much profit as they can. i just think that extended warranties are for suckers with the possible exception of roys wide screen tv as mentioned in a previous post. i have noticed several times when im shopping for a large ticket item the salesman will say something like this is a great product...lasts forever then when its time to put the money down they say i strongly suggest the extended warranty. huh if its so good why do i need to pay more for a warranty that you said it wouldnt need furthermore i remember a report about a large electronics retail chain who taught their sales people to really push the extended warranties because thats were they make most of their money. imo most modern car and truck manufacters build very reilable stuff. imo they only sell you an extended warranty because the seller makes money from it. it has been my experience that the only reason any company makes a product or offers a service is because they make money from it they compare the cost of all the claims against the money they collect from all the contracts and in the end they show a profit. yes profit is wonderful. without profit we wouldnt have the marvelous choices and variety of products to choose from. its similar to insurance but without governing laws and an insurance commissionar to oversee those laws. i never buy extended warranties for any product. 2006 ram 3500/cummins 500 miles. im looking to get an extended warranty on the above vehicle. im not that much into car stuff but one of my car nut friends has recommended aftermarket extended warranties. anybody have any opinions or recommendations i figure the warranty is only as good as the company writing it so although price is a concern i do want a solid company. thanks for any help. bb .
From : roy
2000 dodge ram 1500 4x4 shifts from 1st to second at 14 mph ok 2nd to 3rd is a problem. if i let off the gas at 30 35 mph it will shift but the rear end bangs. if i give it more gas to 40mph it will shift smoothly. it will downshift at 31 mph. it will not go into overdrive 5th gear until exactly 52 mph. at 51 it will downshift. how can i change the shift speeds i like to drive between 50 and 55 but it up and downshifts all the time. any ideas .
From : Annonymous
i was about 3 miles from home. the truck said check gauges. i saw that the battery gauge was over to 18 volts. everything seemed ok so i kept going as i only had a couple of miles to home. then i noticed my radar detector showing high voltage. i unplugged it. shut off the radio and lights. a half mile from home the battery gauge started going down to normal and the warning light went out. at home i checked all the cells in the battery. two were a little low. but the terminals had the green corrosion on them so i cleaned them up and used wd40 to oil them up and put them on. everything seems ok now but has anyone else had this problem .
From : bb
on 24 nov 2006 172908 -0800 elijahs@gmail.com wrote yar. thats a good answer there... the thing is im returning the truck to my friend when im done fixing it and id like to feel like its fixed. hard to say tho. i guess one question would be - *is* there an argument for the pcm having a hairline crack or any of that business since its still under warranty it would be nice to just make it the dealers problem. however its not a heat-sensitive issue; sometimes it happens at first startup after sitting all night. oh well i caulked and greased it and it hasnt happened lately. thanks all! elijah marsh monster wrote ======== ======== strap a wire tie around it and go git drunk and ....... fergittttttttttaboutitttttttt if you can demonstrate to the dealer that it fails and the no bus condition supported by your own documentation of others with identical problems from reports on internet sites tracking vehicle failures fixing with the pcm one would think they would give you the benefit of the doubt. i might even use the approach like you did here as if they already knew about the old no bus problem if i were you since i would expect that they have seen it a few times no matter if they admitted it or not.... the only time i have known of anyone fixing the no bus without the pcm being replaced was once a guy reported that the dealer re flashed reloaded the control software the pcm. my money still says pcm let us know elijah good luck and drive very cautiously till you get it fixed one way or another. best regards joe .
From : mike simmons
========= ========= joe brophy wrote in an essay snip .. the pcm is considered to be part of the emissions control systems so you should get a replacement at no chargethey are warranted for 8 years i believe other than the cost of one or more service appointments while they prove it to themselves unless you simply demand that it be replaced and use printouts of the 150 or so identical problems logged in allpar or other problem tracking sites. i just put in a used pcm since i didnt have the time to sit there while they checked it out and also didnt have another vehicle to use cost me about 120$ been fine since. snip the no bus problem imho is one of the most dangerous failures since it is random and it literally disables the vehicle immediately if you are in the fast lane on a freeway or in the middle of an intersection trying to turn it can get very exciting i almost crashed several times in similar situations attempting to get off the roadway. ========= ========== considering this last humble opinion of........yours.... then as you stated with numerous documentation and various assundried reports of this being a known problem.......... and of course you seemingly being of sound logic...chucklechuckle expain to me a simpleton........ exactly........ what logic was used........... to decide........ to install..... a used...computer....... for $120..... in order to fix the symptom that is know to exist in these computers....... i mean....... you already had a used computer. one with the documented defect. now..you have purchased another one. with the documented defect allbeit the symptom hasnt shown yet. havent you oh....... it came out of a low mileage vehical.......mmmmmmmm ^ ^ o o l o before you git started with me let me say.......i promote the use of recycled automotive parts. i understand.....yer truck is fixed. i know yer a happy camper. but....... you spent $120 for a computer... that may have cracks in it. according to your post so..... i am proud of your ability to diagnose and repair. i am glad for you....your truck is fixed. however i honestly dont understand the logic.... especially considering the fact..... that you....stated....... it was a warrantied part but you didnt feel like waiting oh yeah....... and the parts i snipped........ lol. marshmonster takes a toke sips his mushroom tea.....and confounds himself .
From : roy
on 21 nov 2006 133112 -0800 elijahs@gmail.com wrote ok heres the deal 1999 durango v8 64k miles intermittent engine + guage failure; odometer reads no bus. the fix is i go and press on each of the three pcm connectors and at some point the whole thing comes back to life. no heat correlation and its really easy to get it going again. when this happens the odb codes get reset but there arent any codes being recorded i know the codes are being reset because some of the tests that only complete once youve driven a while show as incomplete again after the error occurs. finally - its a friends backup car but her parents are coming to town and this just started happening. id like to save her a bill at the dealers. is this definately the pcm and therefore covered under the 8/80k warranty i pulled all the connectors and sprayed everything down with electronic cleaner; didnt really help anything. sometimes the jostling of the engine trying to start actually fixes it. any help terribly appreciated! elijah it sounds like you are traveling down that same road in diagnosing the problem as i did a while ago. first it is my understanding that the problem is within the computer for most if not all of the ones that were analyzed beyond replacing the pcm anyway more specifically what happens is that over time with hundreds of on/off cycles of the rig the circuit board will develop microscopic cracks in the printed circuit land patterns causing the electrical connection to open or at least become very poor quality after the engine compartment has been at operating temp for some time and there has been lack of airflow in there like you went to the store a couple miles away turned off the rig went in and came out 5-10 minutes later got in the rig started up and was fine for about a half of a block the no bus the rig stalls and wont fire but will turn the motor over. now you probably pop the hood and go out and start checking stuff out under there. meanwhile the heat is escaping from the engine area... you likely have figured out if it has happened for a while that you dont need to try to start the engine rather just cycle the key from off to on and watch the trip odometer. if it hasnt reset itself yet it will flash three times and display no bus when it is ready to start again when the key is cycled the odometer display reads normally. with my rig initially it would cool itself off if i opened the hood for 3-5 minutes with it closed it was a little longer but not a lot. over time it will likely become longer given the nature of the problem mine did and my rig didnt develop the issue until i had driven it for almost a year. the pcm is considered to be part of the emissions control systems so you should get a replacement at no chargethey are warranted for 8 years i believe other than the cost of one or more service appointments while they prove it to themselves unless you simply demand that it be replaced and use printouts of the 150 or so identical problems logged in allpar or other problem tracking sites. i just put in a used pcm since i didnt have the time to sit there while they checked it out and also didnt have another vehicle to use cost me about 120$ been fine since. also sometimes i would get a error message if i ran the dashboard diagnostic when the no bus went away before doing anything else it reads out in the same display. as i recall the code was 192x as well as 1999. however many if not most of the time it showed no other errors and as you indicated it resets the pcm reset able errors as well. i was told that i needed to have the pcm reprogrammed to show my rigs vin number which daimler chrysler of course wanted to soak me fifty bucks for so i may do it one day but it has been running fine for almost a year with no perceivable differences. i did order the exact pcm number for the way mine is configured which didnt hurt either i suppose. the no bus problem imho is one of the most dangerous failures since it is random and it literally disables the vehicle immediately if you are in the fast lane on a freeway or in the middle of an intersection trying to turn it can get very exciting i almost crashed several times in similar situations attempting to get off the roadway. it seemed to help a little if i left the hood wit the main latch open only held by the safety latch not a safe practice either but if it avoids being completely disabled it is worth it at least as a temporary measure. the reason you havent yet associated the problem to heat is that the pcm seems to lag behind the apparent engine bay heat and it is in the flow of air from in front of the airbox which might keep it a bit cooler. in the winter here in oregon my rig would almost never fail but in summer when it got over 80 degrees you had better keep air moving through the engine and if you stop raise the hood slightly until you get back to the vehic
From : tom lawrence
ok. so todays big learning experience is that the 12v truck fridge pulls power even with the switches are all off. so i had a very dead truck this afternoon 2001 dak. no worries i have a very helpful neighbor with one of those portable jumper boxes. gotta get me one of those! now heres the weirdness. get the truck running but each time i take my foot off the gas it dies straight off. every time. since it ran perfect yesterday we were trying to sort out why the alternator would die suddenly and without warning. however after we unhooked the jumper box the truck would remain running normally. its fine now... is the truck computer smart enough to know the batterys being jumped and disable the alternator why thanks for any eddication anyone can provide. jmc. its 8pm and just under 100f. ick. its common on dodge trucks and vehicals with the old 3.0l engine for it to not idle if the battery was dead or even after it was replaced. for lack of a better way of explaining this the pcm will loose memory of where idle should be and it needs to relearn it. usually you just need to keep your foot on the pedal and drive around the block and itd be ok. as for why your battery went dead im not even gonna guess. either your battery is going south or you got a drain on the electrical system somewhere. denny .
From : ed h
what is the one thing you want for christmas to finish my house remodel. how long do you think we will have a substantial force in iraq by substantial i mean over 1k troops. longer than it took us to get out of japan and germany after ww2. i know most of us drive dodges. but each maker has at least one part that is best it is all a compromise when you make your purchase. but if ya could how would you combine parts from each maker to make your ideal truck put the allison 1000 6 speed automatic transmission in a dodge ctd and maybe at the h2 suspension/ground clearance. better yet use unimog planetary gear axles at least in the 4x4. .
From : tom lawrence
track bar -- ------------------------------------------ laszlo almasi ----cool toys formerly carolina watercraft works ----mack daddy trailers ----ice angels got a 96 2500 cummins 4x4 and im having some steering problems. the truck has far too much play in the steering. the truck will grab imperfections in the road and pull the truck along those imperfections. reminds me of a vehicle with bad ball joints. has made for some interesting rides. i took the truck to a dodge dealer. the dealer replaced some bushings that held the front spindle assy to the axle. minor improvement but no material change in ride quality. i replaced the tires with bridgestone dualer a/ts and changed the steering shaft. minor improvement but no material change in ride quality. took the truck to another dodge dealer. replaced the steering gearbox stabilizer and track bar. minor improvement but no material change in ride quality. is there something these mechanics and i am missing im seriously stumped - any ideas really appreciated. tom .
From : ed h
hey all what is a good source for aftermarket pickup bumpers .
From : mike simmons
depends on the vehicle to tell you the truth. some older diesel vehicles fair well with gas in the tank most newer ones do not due to the computer controls etc. when in doubt just drain the tank and refill with the correct fuel. .
From : ed h
mpberti wrote todd wrote everyone could use some insight here. 2000 ram 1500 truck left signal is clicking and flashing twice as fast as normal right signal is normal speed. i know this normally means a bad bulb but that didnt fix my problem unfortunately. here is the scoop. checked the fuses they are ok. left front blinks left rear does not blink. replaced rear bulb with the same one 3157. no change. my truck already has a towing package installed so nothing has changed with the wiring. i also tow a camper and when the camper is plugged in no more fast blink and the rear camper light works just fine. so what else should i check first i did buy a returned pack of opened bulbs from oreilly only because that was the last ones they had. for all i know that could be the problem maybe they are bad bulbs. i might pull a bulb from the right side and plug into the left side to rule out the new bulbs i have being bad. thanks you have a heavy duty flash pot for you tow package. when there is less of a load on it it will blink faster. sometimes they go funky and need to be changed. get a dig. one they dont burn out for standard-duty flashers less load higher load resistance = slower; more load lower load resistance = faster. for variable-load e.g. heavy-duty and electronic flashers the flash rate wont change much with load. i would start checking for a wiring problem related to the rear lamp... compromised wiring or possibly defective turn-signal switch the rear turn signal goes thru the turn signal switch. bryan .
From : miles
can someone tell me whether wombats live only in australia or also on other continents apart from zoos of course. 39 -- posted via a free usenet account from http//www.tera.com .
From : roy
agreed thats why i said its a good guess. i never doubted the regulator problem. been there on a 86 d100. -- ---------------------------- -chris 05 ctd 06 liberty crd real trucks dont need spark plugs. ive had my voltage regulator go bad. that was a pretty exact description of what happened. the only thing knowing model year etc. is going to tell is if the vr is a seperate component or part of the computer module. thats a pretty good guess i think. especially since we have no ideal what year make model or engine size the truck is.. -- ---------------------------- -chris 05 ctd 06 liberty crd real trucks dont need spark plugs. sounds like your voltage regulator may be on the verge of crapping out. if i were you id do something about it real quick. -- ------------------------------------------ laszlo almasi ----cool toys formerly carolina watercraft works ----mack daddy trailers ----ice angels i was about 3 miles from home. the truck said check gauges. i saw that the battery gauge was over to 18 volts. everything seemed ok so i kept going as i only had a couple of miles to home. then i noticed my radar detector showing high voltage. i unplugged it. shut off the radio and lights. a half mile from home the battery gauge started going down to normal and the warning light went out. at home i checked all the cells in the battery. two were a little low. but the terminals had the green corrosion on them so i cleaned them up and used wd40 to oil them up and put them on. everything seems ok now but has anyone else had this problem .
From : chris thompson
ive had my voltage regulator go bad. that was a pretty exact description of what happened. the only thing knowing model year etc. is going to tell is if the vr is a seperate component or part of the computer module. thats a pretty good guess i think. especially since we have no ideal what year make model or engine size the truck is.. -- ---------------------------- -chris 05 ctd 06 liberty crd real trucks dont need spark plugs. sounds like your voltage regulator may be on the verge of crapping out. if i were you id do something about it real quick. -- ------------------------------------------ laszlo almasi ----cool toys formerly carolina watercraft works ----mack daddy trailers ----ice angels i was about 3 miles from home. the truck said check gauges. i saw that the battery gauge was over to 18 volts. everything seemed ok so i kept going as i only had a couple of miles to home. then i noticed my radar detector showing high voltage. i unplugged it. shut off the radio and lights. a half mile from home the battery gauge started going down to normal and the warning light went out. at home i checked all the cells in the battery. two were a little low. but the terminals had the green corrosion on them so i cleaned them up and used wd40 to oil them up and put them on. everything seems ok now but has anyone else had this problem .
From : tbone
thats a pretty good guess i think. especially since we have no ideal what year make model or engine size the truck is.. -- ---------------------------- -chris 05 ctd 06 liberty crd real trucks dont need spark plugs. sounds like your voltage regulator may be on the verge of crapping out. if i were you id do something about it real quick. -- ------------------------------------------ laszlo almasi ----cool toys formerly carolina watercraft works ----mack daddy trailers ----ice angels i was about 3 miles from home. the truck said check gauges. i saw that the battery gauge was over to 18 volts. everything seemed ok so i kept going as i only had a couple of miles to home. then i noticed my radar detector showing high voltage. i unplugged it. shut off the radio and lights. a half mile from home the battery gauge started going down to normal and the warning light went out. at home i checked all the cells in the battery. two were a little low. but the terminals had the green corrosion on them so i cleaned them up and used wd40 to oil them up and put them on. everything seems ok now but has anyone else had this problem .
From : ed h
stormin mormon wrote whats everyone doing to get ready for winter tomorrow ive got to change the oil on two vehicles and try out the new antifreeze tester christopher a. young where i live the weather is so good that the pastor has agreed for special prayers next sunday for bad weather. surely winter will be again the boredom of fine weather and lots of golf time. but as a precaution i did have all my sweaters cleaned. has been a few years though. like maybe 20! bob az .
From : roy
charles wrote this is probably the same for all dodge 2500s as it looks like the fuse box is designed for multiple applications. my trailer power at the 7-prong plug is always hot. it should only be on when the engine is running. under the hood on the drivers side usa there is a box with fuses and relays where the main power distribution is. there is a fuse marked trailer power and if i pull that the trailer power goes dead. there is also a relay marked trailer power and if i pull that the trailer still has power. it should go on with the engine to charge the trailer batteries and go off when the engine is shut down to prevent draining the truck batteries when the trailer in this case a slide-in camper is parked. any suggestions thanks charles id wire the charging circuit to the camper battery through a constant duty solenoid triggered from the ignition. you could run the trigger wire through a dash mounted toggle switch so you can keep that circuit turned off when you remove the camper or dont want it to charge. constant duty solenoid http//www.grainger.com/grainger/wwg/itemdetailsrender.shtmlxi=xi&itemid=1611784830 -- ken .
From : mike simmons
first off the trans you have is a 4 spd auto so no fifth gear. check for codes regarding the transmission solenoids and check the tv cable for adjustment. -- max join www.devilbrad.com and find out what free exchange of info is all about. there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author 2000 dodge ram 1500 4x4 shifts from 1st to second at 14 mph ok 2nd to 3rd is a problem. if i let off the gas at 30 35 mph it will shift but the rear end bangs. if i give it more gas to 40mph it will shift smoothly. it will downshift at 31 mph. it will not go into overdrive 5th gear until exactly 52 mph. at 51 it will downshift. how can i change the shift speeds i like to drive between 50 and 55 but it up and downshifts all the time. any ideas .
From : ed h
hi folks! i am trying to determine the best way to hook up a set of running board lights to the interior lighting wiring harness. run a power wire up to the power module fuse box in the engine compartment and tap into fuse #33. this is the circuit that powers the trailer running lights. alternatively you can tap into the 18-gauge brown wire running along the wire bundle down the drivers side frame rail. test this with a voltmeter to make sure its hot when the parking lamps are on and that it goes dead when fuse #33 is pulled. if so thats your wire. .