a/c pressure
From : Annonymous
Q: dont want a hybrid im waiting for this to catch on myself. http//www.zapworld.com/zapworld.aspxid=4560 anybody have any good info on them which is better and so on. would like opinion based on fact not supposition. tia roy .
Replies:
From : ed h
thanks for the info but i found the problem was in the harnes that goes tho the firewall bad conetion so i bypassed it . thanks larman larman i had a similar problem with a 68 dodge wagon. the big red wire feeding the engine run circuits. of course all the bad things. 120 in the shade south of lake havasu az. was able to limp to a motel while mama held the key in the start position but starter not running. ac was out also. i found some parts and bypassed the offending firewall connection/wire. this also partially took out the alternator. so a new alternator in needles ca where it was also 120. and then in anaheim i found a repair kit at a chrysler dealer that allowed me to replace several high current firewall connections. god bless my vom wire terminal crimper and my factory service manual. bob az .
From : max dodge
on jul 16 1226am r...@robcoleman.ca wrote my torque converter lock up feels like it is engaging and disengaging repeatedly from 40 miles an hour on up. sometimes it does this every few seconds sometimes it locks up for a few seconds and some times it seems like only a split second but it never stays locked for more than 15 seconds. if i let the truck shift into o/d...it will only stay briefly as the torque convertor disengages and drops the thing into 3rd again. i tested cruise control and it drops out as well....makes sense..sort of. the truck seems to shift properly from a stop thru first second and third without issue.....this only starts once i get up around 45 or so. chrysler service center has no idea so i took it to aamco......aamco is spending a lot of time diligently checking everything theyve had it for a weekso far no success although they can see the pressure at the torque convertor clutch drops off to 30 psi when the problem occurs. someone from chrysler said it is likely a problem with the throttle position sensor but the guys at aamco say it doesnt have one...not sure as im with them on that....can anyone tell me where it is located if it has one...and what it looks like. needless to say when im driving especially if im towing my trailer i need to leave o/d turn
From : tom lawrence
wow thanks so much tom. ill never go to the dealer again. lol this truck has had problems for a while now and no one seems to be able to fix anything any more. ky anyone have any ideas yep... check for vacuum leaks - common areas are the cruise control diaphragm that sits under the battery tray acid drips on the vaccum lines and eats them away the vacuum line going to your your transfer case and the lines from the case to the front axle disconnect if 4x4. as bir suggested it could also be the check valve on the line that runs to your hvac controls. find the vacuum line off the back of your intake manifold and look for the check valve. note which side connects to the engine and which goes towards the passenger compartment. remove the valve and try pulling a vacuum use a hand vacuum pump or in a pinch suck it like a straw from the engine side. air should flow freely. do the same on the other side. there should be restriction no air should flow. if it does the check valve is bad. .
From : tom lawrence
wow that would be cool. where is it located on the truck thanks so much. ky my ram 91 model flips between the defog and the dash vents when you start up a hill. it dont have to be much of an incline either just 2 or 3 percent just enough to put a little load on the engine. ive had it to the part changers over at the dealership and after $300 it is still doing the same thing. now they want to put a $400 part on it a gas canister. with it only doing it on an uphill slope it seems to me it would be a vacuum thing. anyone have any ideas ky it sounds like a simple vacuum check valve has gone bad. as i get older and the memory deteriorates posts like this help me remember why i dont want to buy a new truck again or have anything to do with dealers. .
From : max dodge
was about to change out the ignition switch .... pulled out fuse instead for the seat belt control module. this solved the problem. seat belt control module was back feeding circuit acc 31 which was keeping the radio and wipers on with the ignition shut off. did you also disconnect the wiring harness to the central timer module to verify that was indeed the cause of the backfeeding its accessible by removing the panel below the steering column. its the electornic box on the right-hand side of the dash frame. remove the two screws and you can pull the module out far enough to disconnect the electrical connector. if it does need to be replaced its going to be a dealer job. not because you cant put a new one in thats the simple part but the new ctm needs to be programmed with all of the features in your truck power windows/locks keyless entry steering wheel radio controls - all stuff like that. .
From : bryan
hi all! finally discovered the problem causing high iod draw and a couple of sets of dead batteries. was about to change out the ignition switch .... pulled out fuse instead for the seat belt control module. this solved the problem. seat belt control module was back feeding circuit acc 31 which was keeping the radio and wipers on with the ignition shut off. anyone replaced one of these seat belt control modules cost info tia fred .
From : geekboy
my ram 91 model flips between the defog and the dash vents when you start up a hill. it dont have to be much of an incline either just 2 or 3 percent just enough to put a little load on the engine. ive had it to the part changers over at the dealership and after $300 it is still doing the same thing. now they want to put a $400 part on it a gas canister. with it only doing it on an uphill slope it seems to me it would be a vacuum thing. anyone have any ideas ky .
From : bigironram
z88z wrote project - replace the 46re in my 98 5.9/auto/4wd zj with a 5spd from a 98 5.9/5spd/4wd ram or dakota build is for street performance not off road use. probably wont be mega horsepower maybe 400 at most. slightly confused on the crank/flywheel/trans issue. 1. the 5.2 is external balance the 5.9 is internal so they use different flywheels but the mopar site shows one flywheel p/n# for 5.2/5.9l and a different flywheel p/n# for the 5.9 magnum. so a used flywheel would have to come from a 5.9 magnum and not the stock 5.9 2. are the 5spd models different depending on whether the truck has a 5.2 a 5.9 or a 5.9 magnum 3. i believe im looking for an nv3500 or is it the nv3550 what are the horsepower ratings and which years will fit the nv4500 is bullet proof but has a granny 1st and is more suitable for off road use 4. how can i tell which vehicles have close ratio 5. does the v8 dakota have the same drivetrain and 5 speed models as the ram 6. anyone installed a 5spd into an obdii mopar vehicle that originally came with an auto 7. can my jeep pcm be reflashed so its not looking for auto trans inputs or can i reflash the pcm from a 5.9/5spd/4wd ram with my vin and mileage or whatever i cant pass ma vehicle inspection with a cel on. any help is appreciated. the answers dont have to be too long or involved. mostly looking to clarify the flywheel/trans model issue. thanks. john thanks reverend and steve ok im getting somewhere now but still have a few questions. kind of a three steps forward one step back process. last engine questions is there non-magnum gas 5.9 also or are all the 5.9 motors after 1994 or so either magnum or diesel do not confuse the 5.9 diesel with the 5.9 gas engine they are two very different animals. the 5.9 diesel is the cummins engine and it has nothing in common tith the dc 360 magnum gas engine. i doubt that they would make the a engine once the magnum engine cam out. i believe the 6cyl and 8cyls have the same bellhousing to block bolt pattern. is the diesel 5.9 the same too the 5.2 and the 5.9 gas engine have the same bolt pattern. so im finally figuring out the nv4500 was the only a manual transmission available behind any kind of 5.9 and that was a diesel 5.9 that would be incorrect. the nv4500 sat behind the 5.9 gas engine as well. anyone know if a 5.9 to nv4500 bellhousing would fit an nv3550 nope. the nv4500 has a removable bellhousing while the nv3500 is a one piece unit. highimpact shows an ax15 bellhousing for adapting an nv3550 to the 5.2 & 5.9. if you get the dodge version it already fits both motors. http//www.high-impact.net/transmissionandgear/nv3550chrysler%2052l-59l.htm thats hard to figure. you can use a trans from a wrangler behind a 5.9 but the trans that come behind a 5.2 isnt strong enough for the 5.9 this is where i got the flywheel info i was talking about. it mentions two 5.9s page 132 http//www.mopar.ca/accessories/performance/2007%20performance%20catalogue.pdf http//www.mopartsracing.com/parts/trans.html and an interesting quote about using the nv3500 from notchlx at bionicdodge the transmission has an integrated bellhousing and its rated for 300ft/lbs of torque. it uses a hydraulic clutch system. good for your leg these units are a mid-grade transmission that does remarkably well in a stock application. however once the power is turned up on these suckers you might want to pick up a spare. i ran at 320rwhp and 375rwtq for over 10000miles and bolted on slicks once a week for a year with 3000rpm clutch drops and never had a single problem out of mine... the clutches went before the tranny gave any signs of disintegration. the centerforce dual friction clutch holds up pretty good to the added power and is definitely a lot more crisp on the shifts than the stocker. others havent been as lucky. ive heard of people blowing out their 5spd with little to no mods depends on what kind of day they were having at the new ventures shop on the day your transmission rolled out. plenty of people are running modded 318 287 360 and 408 engines in front of these units with good results however the general consensus says o-young padowan play with fire and you will be burned eventually it sounds like this person was using it in a car which does put a little less strain on the transmission. reverend - im familiar with early zj 5spd parts. thats what i was planning on. i think xj pedals work too. i believe the swap could be done using the original console though. i have a few interior pix from someone who did the 5.9 5spd zj conversion with an nv4500. doesnt look like he cut the tunnel heard a rumor some later zj export diesel models had manual trans so that could be a possible pedal and console parts source but i havent looked into that yet. now my last bit of confusion for the time being! - is the ecm
From : bigironram
on sat 14 jul 2007 142048 -0400 roy roy@fhome.net wrote based on everything ive found to read toyota seems to have their act together on the hybrids.seems they have been doing hybrids longer that anybody else. im leaning real hard towards the camry for a couple of reasons. the big one is you have a good chance of surrvival if you bend them up. my brother the one with the lexus hybrid claims that most of the other hybrids are using systems licensed by toyota... i have no idea if thats fact or fiction just thought it would be nice to say something ontopic once in a while.. mac please remove splinters before emailing .
From : coh
well well. your up and about early for a sunday. got to take mom to church today. its better than her trying to drive herself besides her car still wont start... wink the idiot probably had a 9 blade on it as well. arent you supposed to be on the road not yet. were leaving wed about noon or so. looking forward to a nice peacefull five days in chicago. im sure the traffic wont be heavy... denny roy .
From : max dodge
z88z wrote project - replace the 46re in my 98 5.9/auto/4wd zj with a 5sp from a 98 5.9/5spd/4wd ram or dakota build is for street performance not off road use. probably won be mega horsepower maybe 400 at most. slightly confused on the crank/flywheel/trans issue. 1. the 5.2 is external balance the 5.9 is internal so they us different flywheels but the mopar site shows one flywheel p/n# for 5.2/5.9l and different flywheel p/n# for the 5.9 magnum. so a used flywheel would have to come from a 5.9 magnum and not th stock 5.9 2. are the 5spd models different depending on whether the truck ha a 5.2 a 5.9 or a 5.9 magnum 3. i believe im looking for an nv3500 or is it the nv3550 wha are the horsepower ratings and which years will fit the nv4500 is bullet proof but has a granny 1st and i more suitable for off road use 4. how can i tell which vehicles have close ratio 5. does the v8 dakota have the same drivetrain and 5 speed model as the ram 6. anyone installed a 5spd into an obdii mopar vehicle tha originally came with an auto 7. can my jeep pcm be reflashed so its not looking for auto tran inputs or can i reflash the pcm from a 5.9/5spd/4wd ram with my vin and mileag or whatever i cant pass ma vehicle inspection with a cel on. any help is appreciated. the answers dont have to be too long o involved. mostly looking to clarify the flywheel/trans model issue. thanks. joh thanks reverend and steve ok im getting somewhere now but still have a few questions. kind o a three steps forward one step back process last engine questions is there non-magnum gas 5.9 also or are all the 5.9 motors after 199 or so either magnum or diesel i believe the 6cyl and 8cyls have the same bellhousing to block bol pattern. is the diesel 5.9 the same too so im finally figuring out the nv4500 was the only a manua transmission available behind any kind of 5.9 and that was a diese 5.9 anyone know if a 5.9 to nv4500 bellhousing would fit an nv3550 highimpact shows an ax15 bellhousing for adapting an nv3550 to the 5. & 5.9 http//www.high-impact.net/transmissionandgear/nv3550chrysler%2052l-59l.ht thats hard to figure. you can use a trans from a wrangler behind 5.9 but the trans that come behind a 5.2 isnt strong enough for th 5.9 this is where i got the flywheel info i was talking about. it mention two 5.9s page 132 http//www.mopar.ca/accessories/performance/2007%20performance%20catalogue.pd http//www.mopartsracing.com/parts/trans.htm and an interesting quote about using the nv3500 from notchlx a bionicdodge the transmission has an integrated bellhousing and its rated fo 300ft/lbs of torque. it uses a hydraulic clutch system. good fo your leg these units are a mid-grade transmission that does remarkably well i a stock application. however once the power is turned up on thes suckers you might want to pick up a spare. i ran at 320rwhp an 375rwtq for over 10000miles and bolted on slicks once a week for year with 3000rpm clutch drops and never had a single problem out o mine... the clutches went before the tranny gave any signs o disintegration. the centerforce dual friction clutch holds up prett good to the added power and is definitely a lot more crisp on th shifts than the stocker. others havent been as lucky ive heard of people blowing out their 5spd with littl to no mods depends on what kind of day they were having at the ne ventures shop on the day your transmission rolled out. plenty o people are running modded 318 287 360 and 408 engines in front o these units with good results however the genera consensus says o-young padowan play with fire and you will b burned eventually reverend - im familiar with early zj 5spd parts. thats what i wa planning on. i think xj pedals work too. i believe the swap could b done using the original console though. i have a few interior pi from someone who did the 5.9 5spd zj conversion with an nv4500 doesnt look like he cut the tunnelheard a rumor some later zj export diesel models had manual trans sothat could be a possible pedal and console parts source but i haventlooked into that yet.now my last bit of confusion for the time being! -is the ecm or ecu a different animal than the pcm or are they justdifferent names for the same thing im afraid ill lose the high performance mapping if i use the 5.2ecm.looks like its gonna be a lot of work!!thanks again folks - john view the attachments for this post at http//www.jlaforums.com/viewtopic.phpp=9094145#9094145 .
From : max dodge
on jul 15 943 am max dodge max...@verizon.net wrote tom... your response solution for a very small hard to detect a/c leak is right on but begs the following question. a leak that takes a year or more to lose enough refrigerant to cause more than occasional bubbles visible thru the sight glass is the situation im in. i last summer my ac worked as you describe. i had a local tech put guages on it this spring when i found it to be not working. he claimed that the orifice tube was clogged. i cannot prove this one way or the other. what i saw in your op was that you always had pressure which leads me to the full description of my problem this spring..... two years ago the ac failed noticably in the evaporator core which is under the dash. i replaced this and the accumulator and had a professional do the recharge. the ac worked but not as well as thought it ought to compared to the factory charge. last year the ac worked about half as well as the prior year. i was broke so i recharged from a can. this appeared to work although the compressor still cycled. i waited a month and no improvement. so i set the lone guage of the can filler on the low pressure side and observed. pressure would go down until the compressor came on... odd i thought.... the tech claimed i had too much in ths system which is very possible and that the orifice tube was clogged. once i had replaced that my evap core wanted to be replaced again. this too was done. the tech then tested and filled the system properly and my ac works like it did when new. i think you may need to replace the evaporator core the orifice tube and the accumulator. parts cost is about $200-$225 iirc. here is why evap core is likely the slow leak you cannot find. if your shop claims that none of the ac system shows the dye ask them to spot the drain tube or the suspension under the drain tube. the evap core is the main source of leaks in these trucks so id look there first. the accumulator is what cleans and filters the refridgerant so replacing it adds a measure of reliability to the system. the orifice tube is what meters the r134 turning it into a gas that flows through the evap core making the core cold. it can clog according to the tech causing very odd readings on the guages and a continuous cycling of the compressor when the refridgerant is full or above full. if youd like to try replacing the evap core yourself let me know i have pics of replacing mine. -- max joinwww.devilbrad.comand find out what free exchange of info is all about. there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author tom... your response solution for a very small hard to detect a/c leak is right on but begs the following question. a leak that takes a year or more to lose enough refrigerant to cause more than occasional bubbles visible thru the sight glass is the situation im in. the system holds vacuum after complete evacuation rendering an opinion from the a/c shop that all is fine. the same shop two years earlier inspected with full system using a black light etc and found no leaks. refilled system and added dye. today no dye is visible but system has lost refrigerant as stated earlier. have you or any other contributor to this forum had any experience with products that claim to be able to stop very small a/c leaks just by adding the product to the a/c system. this is similar with those stop leaks for radiators that ill never use again or recommend as my experience with my one time use just to save radiator shop cost was a disaster. the product blocked many non problematic sections of the radiator causing overheating that resulted in a radiator shop visit anyway. am i into a similar possibility with stop leak product far a/cs skgmi.7774$od7.5...@read1..pas.earthlink.net tom lawrence tnloaswpraemnmcie...@earthlink.net wrote my 99 doge ram has a low side pressure that goes up to 60 down to 15 when compressor kicks in compressor goes on and off every few seconds or so this is symptomatic of a low refrigerant charge. you have a leak somewhere. whether its a very slow leak or a larger one can only be determined by proper troubleshooting either by recharging with a leak detecting dye and looking for the source of the leak with a black light or by recharging and using an electronic refrigerant detector something only a professional shop would have. hi group been a member for a long time first time to post. at the risk of being flamed out by certain other posters in here ill preface this by saying i am a typical owner who prefers to do most of his own work. im not a professional mechanic but serious enough to have most of the right tools compressor and air tools etc. i use professionals when i must. two different shops looked didnt really look but formed an opinion at th
From : gang
tom... your response solution for a very small hard to detect a/c leak is right on but begs the following question. a leak that takes a year or more to lose enough refrigerant to cause more than occasional bubbles visible thru the sight glass is the situation im in. i last summer my ac worked as you describe. i had a local tech put guages on it this spring when i found it to be not working. he claimed that the orifice tube was clogged. i cannot prove this one way or the other. what i saw in your op was that you always had pressure which leads me to the full description of my problem this spring..... two years ago the ac failed noticably in the evaporator core which is under the dash. i replaced this and the accumulator and had a professional do the recharge. the ac worked but not as well as thought it ought to compared to the factory charge. last year the ac worked about half as well as the prior year. i was broke so i recharged from a can. this appeared to work although the compressor still cycled. i waited a month and no improvement. so i set the lone guage of the can filler on the low pressure side and observed. pressure would go down until the compressor came on... odd i thought.... the tech claimed i had too much in ths system which is very possible and that the orifice tube was clogged. once i had replaced that my evap core wanted to be replaced again. this too was done. the tech then tested and filled the system properly and my ac works like it did when new. i think you may need to replace the evaporator core the orifice tube and the accumulator. parts cost is about $200-$225 iirc. here is why evap core is likely the slow leak you cannot find. if your shop claims that none of the ac system shows the dye ask them to spot the drain tube or the suspension under the drain tube. the evap core is the main source of leaks in these trucks so id look there first. the accumulator is what cleans and filters the refridgerant so replacing it adds a measure of reliability to the system. the orifice tube is what meters the r134 turning it into a gas that flows through the evap core making the core cold. it can clog according to the tech causing very odd readings on the guages and a continuous cycling of the compressor when the refridgerant is full or above full. if youd like to try replacing the evap core yourself let me know i have pics of replacing mine. -- max join www.devilbrad.com and find out what free exchange of info is all about. there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author tom... your response solution for a very small hard to detect a/c leak is right on but begs the following question. a leak that takes a year or more to lose enough refrigerant to cause more than occasional bubbles visible thru the sight glass is the situation im in. the system holds vacuum after complete evacuation rendering an opinion from the a/c shop that all is fine. the same shop two years earlier inspected with full system using a black light etc and found no leaks. refilled system and added dye. today no dye is visible but system has lost refrigerant as stated earlier. have you or any other contributor to this forum had any experience with products that claim to be able to stop very small a/c leaks just by adding the product to the a/c system. this is similar with those stop leaks for radiators that ill never use again or recommend as my experience with my one time use just to save radiator shop cost was a disaster. the product blocked many non problematic sections of the radiator causing overheating that resulted in a radiator shop visit anyway. am i into a similar possibility with stop leak product far a/cs skgmi.7774$od7.5159@read1..pas.earthlink.net tom lawrence tnloaswpraemnmcien5g@earthlink.net wrote my 99 doge ram has a low side pressure that goes up to 60 down to 15 when compressor kicks in compressor goes on and off every few seconds or so this is symptomatic of a low refrigerant charge. you have a leak somewhere. whether its a very slow leak or a larger one can only be determined by proper troubleshooting either by recharging with a leak detecting dye and looking for the source of the leak with a black light or by recharging and using an electronic refrigerant detector something only a professional shop would have. .
From : marsh monster
in responce to roy s post. i thought everyone should know hey!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i started this friggin thread to see if anbody knew anything about hybrid cars. wtf happened i think we all can agree the gw has fucked up with the war. now how about some info on the damn cars!!!!! i gotta give craig a point or two for the snomiles. that was funny. sorry miles. you started a thread....what did you think happened youve been around this group for how long and didnt think starting a thread could lead to this sheesh man!!! yer getting older than i gave you credit for gbmfg yup you are correct. figured that it was time to lighten things up a bit. the politics was old and tiresome imo. and i still want more info on these hybrids. roy -- chris .
From : tom lawrence
on jul 14 1017pm tom lawrence this is symptomatic of a low refrigerant charge. you have a leak somewhere. whether its a very slow leak or a larger one can only be determined by proper troubleshooting either by recharging with a leak detecting dye and looking for the source of the leak with a black light or by recharging and using an electronic refrigerant detector something only a professional shop would have. ========== ========== you have posted misinformation in an ng frequented by professional service technicians. we regret to inform you that you are on official yardbird advice watch. we greatly regret this haveing to take this action however if your future replies are based on fact solely on fact and entirely on grounded on factual content.......we will release you from this watch list. however further posting of misinformation may can will and most likely......cause you to recieve blatant and derogeratory .....flaming and acuasutory replies from the professionals who frequent this ng. as a side note....... we do appreciate you not including any reference to any religious beliefs....as this seems to cause extensive and lengthy off topic discussion which takes away from the intent of this ng which as we all know...... is only to help those in need......not to hender the process. facts substantiating listing poster on yardbird watch 1 autozone......carries a fine high quality affordable user friendly assortmant of uv detection doityerselferandbreakit.......ac kits. if further evidence is needed.....please feel free to forward a written request..mark it....attention....yardbird tech watch. and well git back to you.....as soon as we can......or later......or maybe........or........if we want to...........or......we may opt to disregard any and all correspondence from you. marsh sips his crownroyal........file 13s the posting .
From : aarcuda69062
craig c. wrote good. i admire your efforts. youre in az iirc. do they offer grid power generated by the solar farms solar is not to the technology to be cost effective to power a city the size of phoenix. arizona is in a joint venture to build the worlds largest solar array. however even when completed it wont put a dent in meeting the power demands of even a moderate sized city. but its a good start on r&d into improving solar technology. 2 the power from the grid that i do use comes from 100% wind power. www.greenmountain.com no it most certainly does not. your power company ties into the grid and supplements it. their largest facility only produces 160 megawatts 1 produces 10 megawatts and the rest are 10-150 kilowatts scattered around the country. supplemental power. a good start but hardly 100%. 4 i use all energy efficient bulbs. great but bulbs are not a major source of power consumption. minuscule compared to heating and cooling. 6 hung ceiling fans in every room turn the thermostat up. ceiling fans a new thing in your area. i dont think ive seen a home in the az desert cities without them in 30 years +. 7 had 24 of insulation blown into my attic. hope you dont have vaulted ceilings. 8 replaced the 10 seer a/c unit with a 18 seer unit. roof or ground mounted outside or inside exchanger 12 about to replace my gas hot water heater with a hot-water-on-demand system. wont reduce energy costs much. most modern water heaters are very well insulated and do not come on very often when not in use. i have a timer on mine. only has power to it for 3 hours a day and of that it comes on for an hour tops if i had drained the tank. so then you admit that we have gone backwards he un-did the positive changes in place when he took office thats what clinton wants you to believe and why he waited until his last days in office to sign the order. if it was so great of an idea why didnt clinton sign it years earlier when it was discussed clinton had no consultation with a single research committee nor any research into the feasibility of meeting the standards he signed. it was a bogus political order and nothing more. .
From : marsh monster
wayne i dont haul with my dually but with 4.11 gears i first got 15.4 mpg at sustained speed of 100 kph. i now have 27000 miles on the clock and i generally see 18+ mpg. i have seen 19.3 over 1 tank of fuel. mileage starts dropping dramatically past 80 kph but that is probably due to the 4.11s. the ideal engine speed for economy is 1850 rpm and 600 f degrees egt. steve we just came back from our 3600 km 2235 mile round trip to winnipeg. we have a new 2500 2007 ram quad cab with the 5.9 ctd. we are towing a 25 road ranger 252t travel trailer weighing in at around 8600 lbs. we started the trip with about 2366 km 1470 mi on the odometer. the tt is pretty well a solid wall going 100 km / hour 62 mph with very little for aerodynamics. we averaged 13.5 mpg 17.42 l/100 km on the way out with no wind but got down to 11.5 mpg 20.45 l/ 100 km on the way back with a 30 km 18 mph head wind. we pretty well stayed at 110kph 68 mph on the highway in tow/haul mode.i love the new automatic tow/haul mode we did get around 17.5 mpg 13.44 l/100 km running around the city without the trailer. we now have 5957 km on the odometer. what is a realistic expectation for mileage is 13.5 mpg normal or am i just too impatient as it is still getting broke in i have seen different people on the group say they get 15 mpg 15.68 l/100 km towing their trailers. i am pretty sure it will get better.i hope. dont get me wrong this thing beats the heck out of my 2004 5.7 hemi. it got 6.5 mpg pulling the same trailer. either way i can never go back now that i have gone over to diesel. wayne thanks steve. i thought i was being impatient. wayne .