"Y" exhaust pipe
From : chuck
Q: swiss chemist albert hofmann father of lsd dead at 102 http//ap.google.com/article/aleqm5hndrip53gl6ypzecojte2sk6erwwd90c9ks80 .
Replies:
From : chuck
thanksfor you input everyone seems the seals just dired up the freon is holding after several weeks so if it is a leak its a small one. i try to cycle the ac for a while each time i drive now to kep the seals lubbed. thanks on mar 12 806=a0pm 0serv...@comcast.net wrote just purchased a 2000 dodge 2500 with a =a0360 v8 265x75x16 tires quad cab 8 bed i was thinking about the diesel but since it would be used just one in a while i went the gas engine route. =a0i expected around 16mpg highway with the 4.10 rear doing about 55 but the trucks computer is saying im getting 8.4 mpg with an unloaded bed i went out on the highway and cruised about 55 for 10 miles and still reading a tenth better at 8.5 mpg. =a0when i fill up i will hand calculate... but how accurate is it to read the mileage from the on board computer is there any sensor or other issue that could justify such a bad gas mileage if i find out that it really is that bad thanks in advance. .
From : aarcuda69062
i currently have a prodigy that has served me very well. today i had the 5th wheel hitch installed in my new dodge and while there the dealer showed me the new p3 from tekonsha. it was so new at least to him that he had to call for pricing information. he says he will sell it to me for $169. he says its better than my prodigy but could not tell me exactly how. the prodigy can be installed at an angle but the p3 has to be horizontal sorta tough to do in the dash of the new dodge. the link is http//www.tekonsha.com/p3.html can anybody tell me if this unit is worth buying if i already have a functional prodigy is it really the best money can buy thanks nathan in montana http//concealedcarryforum.com .
From : aarcuda69062
glad to hear it and your welcome. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving thanks tbone this makes perfect sense to me now if the battery was undercharged was and wasnt charging true then i was misinterpreting the test result as failed when in fact it was doing what was expected. i bought a niehoff regulator and charged up my battery and everything is back to normal. thanks much. rk then you would be wrong. the numbers in the fsm assume that nothing else is wrong and that is not the case here. a bad or severely discharged battery can clamp down the voltage to 13v and it could also be caused by a failed rectifier in the alternator. you could and probably do have multiple problems going on here. .
From : beekeep
thanks tbone this makes perfect sense to me now if the battery was undercharged was and wasnt charging true then i was misinterpreting the test result as failed when in fact it was doing what was expected. i bought a niehoff regulator and charged up my battery and everything is back to normal. thanks much. rk then you would be wrong. =a0the numbers in the fsm assume that nothing els= e is wrong and that is not the case here. =a0a bad or severely discharged batte= ry can clamp down the voltage to 13v and it could also be caused by a failed rectifier in the alternator. =a0you could and probably do have multiple problems going on here. .
From : beekeep
so what do i do here does any of this make sense to anyone where else should i be looking or what else can i test thanks rk check the voltage drop from the alternator to the battery positive post when hopefully you are charging or supposed to be charging the battery. also the voltage drop fom the battery to the starter when starting the engine. battery cables can go bad on the cable itself and not show any damage. bob az .
From : beekeep
truck details 86 dodge ramcharger se 360 4x4 auto tilt no a/c. problem charging system failure. symptoms electrical outputs diminished things light light output power windows and wipers are slow etc. increasing load on the system makes lights go dim stereo to shut off wipers to slow and so on. increasing engine or idle speed does not counter this effect nor cause the system to come back up to full power. vehicle doesnt start without a jump. besides the charging system failure it looks like your battery is also pretty much used up now as well. tests before it died on me i stopped into a schucks and had them do their electrical test. the result pointed to the alternator as the failure. i took the alternator in by itself the first test was done in the vehicle. two bench tests showed the alternator to be fine. sounds like a lack of experience there to me. you have to be careful with some bench tests as well as depending on the equipment that they use they dont always show the entire picture. next i tested the battery voltage with the truck off. voltage was just a touch under 12v yet i had to jump it in order to get it running again. static voltage doesnt always give a clear picture. what was the voltage when it was cranking or rather when you turned the key to start. as said before it looks like your battery is shot as well. with the truck running i checked voltage at the battery again and it still read 11.4. revving the engine did not increase voltage. which as i assume you know means no charging. i then disconnected the voltage regulator and ran a jumper from the green wire connection to ground to perform a full field test. with the truck running again i tested voltage at the battery leads and it read 13. again voltage did not increase or drop with engine speed. if the voltage jumped up when the regulator was bypassed then it should be obvious what the problem is. my manual indicated the voltage should jump to between 14 and 16 volts and to only run this test long enough to get a reading. after i saw the voltage went up 13v but stayed steady i feel i have ruled out the regulator as the problem. this is also still under voltage correct normal voltage should be around 14v. bypassing the regulator only bumped it up slightly. then you would be wrong. the numbers in the fsm assume that nothing else is wrong and that is not the case here. a bad or severely discharged battery can clamp down the voltage to 13v and it could also be caused by a failed rectifier in the alternator. you could and probably do have multiple problems going on here. following the test procedure in my manual i then disconnected the neg batt cable and then hooked up a test lamp between the negative cable and negative post. the light came on. i disconnected the alternator and the light stayed on. the manual says this means there is a short. i dont see how that could indicate a short. what it indicates is current flow which is normal. if you have an under hood light a door is opened a glove compartment light is stuck on or just about anything attempting to draw power from anywhere in the vehicle can possibly light that light. what type of test light are you using. next leaving the test lamp in place and the ignition off i started pulling fuses to find out what system the short is in. the light goes off when i pull the fuse at #7 horns and #9 dome stop lmp. is it interesting to note that the test light will come back on if i pull the headlight switch out no it isnt. any time you activate something that draws power that light will light. now im not sure why your horn circuit would be drawing power unless you have something else connected to it but the dome light circuit indicates that you have a light on somewhere. now we come to the crux. it would seem i have a short in both of those circuits. but do i really there is a big difference between a load and a short. if it were a short then the fuse would blow. heres why i ask. the test lamp is acting in lieu of a direct connection of the cable to the post. i would expect that the test lamp would of course come on if i pull the headlight switch out because lights work even when the ignition is off. the horn and interior/brake lights are also made to work when the ignition is off. but i would expect the test lamp to be off unless i was doing something to close those circuits like honking the horn or actually stepping on the brake or turning on the interior lamps. and you would be correct which indicates that something on these circuits is drawing power and you need to find out what. if it were a true short the current draw would blow the fuse. now you might have a defective switch somewhere in the lamp circuit keeping a lamp on somewhere that is not normally seen like the glove compartment or some storage area or did you just forget about the do
From : curmudgeoncurmudgeonaarcuda69062aarcuda69062
on thu 1 may 2008 012435 -0600 bg notvalid@notme.com wrote on tue 29 apr 2008 153106 -0600 bg notvalid@notme.com wrote i read someplace that if your fuel filter is a bit clogged it can cause the pump to overheat and shut down. ive been dealing with a very intermittant problem for a few years on a 318 van and im thinking that it might be due to the pump shutting down. i tracked down a few other intermittant electrical problems and up untill yesterday the truck had been running perfect for about a year. i wasnt getting fuel at the engine so i eventually pulled the fuel line off of the filter input and ran a direct 12 volts to the fuel pump to rule everything else out. the pump didnt pump. but after sitting all night the pump works. i guess the pump had enough time to cool down my question is if the pump overheats does it normally take that long to cool down or do you think that my pump is intermittant #2 - if i have to drop the tank do i have to buy a special tool from dodge or is there some other deep drive socket out there that can reach the nuts. tia bg the dodge fuel pumps used on their vans are only good for about 150k miles. it seems to me the first time i had to drop the tank the nuts were rusted on so bad i had to cut the bolts. bent carriage bolts work great for replacements with ss nuts. replacing the second and third fuel pumps were a snap. a motorcycle jack works great for dropping the tank and raising it up again. beekeep dropping the tank is what i want to avoid. beside its a 40 gallon jobby and its full. i dont have a way to store 40 gallons. does a 40 gallon tank use a deeper pump than a standard tank bg i have a 35 gallon tank on mine as well and have changed the pump twice. strange nobody around here knows murphys 5th law when the fuel pump goes the tank is always full! youre going to have to borrow some gas cans. there is an anti-siphon ball in the tank fill line. you will have to drop the tank a little and insert the hose below that ball to siphon it. nobody here said it was an easy job its a real pita. beekeep .
From : chuckaarcuda69062
on tue 29 apr 2008 153106 -0600 bg notvalid@notme.com wrote i read someplace that if your fuel filter is a bit clogged it can cause the pump to overheat and shut down. ive been dealing with a very intermittant problem for a few years on a 318 van and im thinking that it might be due to the pump shutting down. i tracked down a few other intermittant electrical problems and up untill yesterday the truck had been running perfect for about a year. i wasnt getting fuel at the engine so i eventually pulled the fuel line off of the filter input and ran a direct 12 volts to the fuel pump to rule everything else out. the pump didnt pump. but after sitting all night the pump works. i guess the pump had enough time to cool down my question is if the pump overheats does it normally take that long to cool down or do you think that my pump is intermittant #2 - if i have to drop the tank do i have to buy a special tool from dodge or is there some other deep drive socket out there that can reach the nuts. tia bg the dodge fuel pumps used on their vans are only good for about 150k miles. it seems to me the first time i had to drop the tank the nuts were rusted on so bad i had to cut the bolts. bent carriage bolts work great for replacements with ss nuts. replacing the second and third fuel pumps were a snap. a motorcycle jack works great for dropping the tank and raising it up again. beekeep dropping the tank is what i want to avoid. beside its a 40 gallon jobby and its full. i dont have a way to store 40 gallons. does a 40 gallon tank use a deeper pump than a standard tank bg .