Will high octane really damage my engine?
From : jmc
Q: ok i did the homebrew alignment last night after also replacing two idler arms and putting the best two tires on front. btw thank-you dan saitz for emailing to me the alignment specs for my van! first i used my 4 box-beam level to locate a level parking lot. had to go to a church about a block from the house. on the way home i took the van up to about 50 mph on several smooth roads. it pulled very strongly to the left and i thought i could hear some scrubbing from the tires. on the driveway at home i removed the right front wheel and loosened the two mounting bolts on the upper a-frame. these bolts ride in slotted holes in the vehicle frame so that the front and rear mounting points can be separately adjusted by pulling/pushing toward or away from the vehicle centerline. so you adjust caster and camber simultaneously. i pulled the upper a-frame all the way to the outside stops. this would result in maximum positive camber top of tire leaning outward and an unknown but hopefully small amount of caster. then i slightly snugged the front a-frame bolt to hold it in place and pushed the rear mount toward the vehicle centerline by a calibrated eyeball amount to increase the caster. then i slightly snugged the rear bolt loosened the front bolt and pushed the front mount of the a-frame toward the centerline by half of the calibrated eyeball amount. my idea here was to achieve a net reduction from max camber while preserving half of the added caster. i then repeated the procedure on the left side re-installed the wheels grabbed a flashlight and headed to my level parking lot for some measurements. i noticed an immediate improvement in handling. the pulling seemed to be gone though it was hard to tell at 30 mph on bad roads. there did seem to be a lot of wandering though. with the help of my girlfriend i made camber measurements straight forward and turning to the stops maybe around 45 degrees on both sides. by having her steady the vertical 4 level against the fender while i used the flashlight to watch the bubble and scoot the other end around on the ground we were able to come up with a reference that was plumb at least in the plane perpendicular to the vehicle and within about two inches of the wheel. i made distance measurements from the vertical to the rim at top and bottom to calculate actual camber. i calculated camber of +1.6 degrees on the right and +1.2 degrees on the left. the tops of my tires were still leaning slightly out. the caster calculations were more problematic because of measurement uncertainty. when the wheel was turned this resulted in fender obscuration of the point where i wanted to set the level. so this measurement distance was several inches further away probably adding error. i was however consistent in seeing a decrease in positive camber top of wheel tilting relatively inward of both wheels when they were on the outside of a turn. this decrease was maybe 0.6 degree on one side and 1.0 degree on the other side. so i felt i at least had achieved positive caster. everyone says that caster is a handling factor but not a wear factor so i figured id fine-tune this by road testing. next we took several toe-in measurements and found the wheels to be toed out by about 1/4. i drove back home tools and jack were still on the driveway. i adjusted the toe to zero by shortening the tie rod on the left side remembering the earlier drastic left pull i was thinking about centering the steering wheel. time for a road test - and the van drove like a dream. no pull all the way to 65 mph and the wandering probably due to the toe-out was also gone. you could take your hands off the wheel and it went perfectly straight. and the wheel was centered. then i made a mistake. thinking about the tire wear due to the excess positive camber particularly on the right i decided to make a small change and take another measurement. since decreasing right camber would supposedly make the vehicle pull a little to the left i thought id simultaneously decrease the caster on that same wheel several references indicate that a vehicle pulls to the side with increased camber or decreased caster to compensate. well that was just too many variables to deal with when its after midnight and the upper a-frame is free to move in two dimensions at once. my next road test had the vehicle drifting noticeably to the left. you just cant make a small precise delta change without some sort of fixed reference or simultaneous measurement. anyway it took another round of wrenching and was about 115 am before i had the driveability back to where i was satisfied. this weekend ill try another idea for fine-tuning the camber which is still excessive by anyones account. ill use a magnetic-base stand from a dial indicator to position a pointer directly above the grease fitting of the upper ball joint. that way i will
Replies:
From : Annonymous
nospam.clare.nce@sny.der.on.ca wrote on mon 13 jun 2005 022920 gmt nosey kfrei43@removethis.hotmail.com wrote answers to these last few questions...oh and what is cafe http//www.ita.doc.gov/td/auto/cafe.html corporate average fuel economy if you look on your keyboard there should be a button near the shift key that has caps lock written on it. push it. ;^ .
From : nosey
otherwise id just look at having the 47re upgraded by a good transmission shop can the 47re be upgraded to the same durability as the 48re until very recently 05 and up dodge still had a very anti-tow-friendly lockup strategy and a barely adequate converter to boot. does this include the 04.5 -- nathan w. collier http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com .
From : Annonymous
sweet. do you feel that an automatic would also do fine in the 02 dually im searching for .....and just out of curiosity how difficult would it be to retrofit a 48re into an 02 -- nathan w. collier http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com .
From : Annonymous
it has a the big 400 engine in it i think. i cant really find an owners manual for it so i cant really tell. and its been sitting for a while because my dad and i both had other vehicles and he had left it over at a friends house of his and that was like 3 or 4 years ago. his friend was supposed to sell it but never got the chance to and he just recently died a few months ago so the job of selling it was passed on to me. justin s wrote i know i posted this a couple of weeks ago but i think i lost access to it since it took me so long to check it. but anyways i have recently acquired a 1974 dodge k8w100 club cab pickup and it doesnt run. it sat for about 3 or 4 years. i have already checked to see if it is getting gas and spark and its getting both. it does turn over but it will not completely start. im very stumped right now and i have very limited time to get this thing running so i can sell it. if anyone has any suggestions please let me know. thanks. -- message posted via http//www.carkb.com .
From : Annonymous
on sun 12 jun 2005 214204 +0100 jmc nogroupsspam@nojodibody.homeus wrote suddenly without warning tbone exclaimed 09-jun-05 647 pm i was just wondering if this warning that i have read form other posters in this group was regional or covered all areas. not sure really. i purchased it overseas it was built in detroit delivered to montana and registered in virginia. they did ask where my residence was so im guessing it meets va emissions standards but then so would a vehicle built to the more rigorous ca specs right anyway though some of it was over my head i did enjoy the actually informative posts in answer to my question could have done without the more numerous name-calling posts but then thats usenet though im still not sure if i should use the fuel or not. i think ill probably just use it to top off since gas coupons are for specific liter amounts and thus rarely fill the tank unless im willing to take a loss. just so i understand if i pump high octane fuel it burns slower and may cause the engine to think the mixtures too lean and make it richer right which if i understood could cause some sort of cycle where the mixture will rapidly cycle between too lean and too rich. its unclear to me whether this will or wont cause knock or engine problems further down the line. i also dont know what would be the symptoms of such a cycle. i would appreciate your thoughts on this. this cycle between too rich and too lean is actually the normal realm of operation of the emission system. all the o2 sensor can tell the computer with the exception of a very few select non-chrysler vehicles is if the mixture is too rich or too lean. cant tell it how much too rich or how much too lean - so it says too rich and the computer leans the mixture untill the sensor reports too lean. the cycle repeats itself and the average resultant mixture is stoich. the number of crossings indicates the health of the o2 sensor. when i buy a vehicle i buy with the intention of keeping it for life so it is important to me that i not do something now that may not show as damage until some time from now. so thanks again gentlemen for the most part for a very educational debate. hopefully i wont start a whole new flamewar trying to get answers to these last few questions...oh and what is cafe jmc learning something new every day .
From : jmc
driving it like its a sports car does that. the cummins dodge is equipment not a common commuter. drive it like it cannot fail and it will. drive it with respect like it can damage itself and anything in its path and itll perform for a lifetime. -- max give a man a match and he is warm for a short while. light him on fire and he is warm for the rest of his life. your 01 should be ok too. in overdrive what is it people are doing that gave the 47re such a bad name -- nathan w. collier http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com .
From : tbone
tbone wrote what is it exactly that im supposed to apologize for miles lol. figures! rant away then claim youre clueless. .
From : jmc
on sun 12 jun 2005 125243 -0600 nathan w. collier montanajeeper@aol.com wrote your 01 should be ok too. in overdrive what is it people are doing that gave the 47re such a bad name maybe its the aww shit factor - you know the one that says one aww shit is louder than a bunch of attaboys i cruise at about 65mph with my 12000 lb fiver in overdrive until it starts hunting for a lower gear - and that takes a lot more than just the grade going up an overpass on the freeway. i have the fluids and filters on the tranny changed in accordance with the owners manual recommendations and specifically ask the mechanic not the service writer or manager if he found anything unusual like shavings or chips when he pulled the pan. nothing bad has happened so far. greg 98 3500 qc 4x2 cummins isb auto 3.541 driftwood with leather and all the heavy duty options. 89 nu-wa champagne edition 34 foot fifth wheel. .
From : jmc
hello all. i posted this over in r.o.r-t and somebody suggested posting it here to get some feedback. oh some background - ive had the truck for a year and a half my 5th wheel trailer is 13500lbs and total mileage is 47000km of which 70% is towing this 5er about 20500 miles. ill start off by saying that my ram is the best vehicle ive ever owned - car truck or otherwise. ive had no problems despite most of my miles being heavy towing. however i just took the truck back to the dealer where i bought it for a major service. over the past 18 months that ive had the truck ive been travelling whenever its needed a bigger service than oil changes i do those myself. i knew i would pay through the nose but i wanted the dealer to have one good look at the truck in case there are any warranty issues down the road - didnt want them to say weve never seen this truck - dont know if it was well maintained. there was no problem with the 3 other dealers ive used while travelling so i didnt expect any at my home dealer. anyway their service sucked. it was supposed to be in there for one afternoon and they had it for two full days - twice. admittedly they had to have it back the second time because they determined that it needed ball joints - they didnt have them all in stock and it was the long victoria day weekend. when i got the truck home the first time i noticed that they had scraped my annual inspection sticker off and had not replaced it. i called and they said oops we forgot but we cant replace it because the service manager is gone for the long weekend. on the black amrket these stickers are worth way more than their weight in gold to people with big trucks who dont want to pay for repairs so the service manager keeps them under lock and key. i didnt need the truck for the next week so i just parked it - when the truck was new the ministry of transport pulled we over twice because i didnt have a yellow inspection sticker - i knew id get a big fine if i got pulled over again. jumping to the end of the saga when i got the truck back the second time there was a new inspection sticker. good! however the mechanic made the notation on the invoice that they were now able to install the sticker because the ball joints were replaced. so im pissed that they pulled my sticker lied to me about the reason why there wasnt one there didnt have common parts in stock and let me drive the truck when i didnt need it and put me at risk of a big fine. id have preferred to leave the truck there but i didnt know it wasnt finished until i showed up. somebody dropped me and my two granddaughters off and we need our ride home! they should have but didnt check the level of my transfer case fluid no marks on the plug. they charged me for 25 litres of atf when the capacity of the tranny and torque converter is only about half that. ive asked 4 times why and the service writer is skating the mechanic is away from his bay and i cant ask him. they mounted the right duals backwards - these are unidirectional tires that shouldnt run backwards. they said you should change your differential fuilds. i said how much $275. forget it i said. i went to canadian tire and bought the fluids for about $70. an hour of my own time and the 2 diffs and the transfer case were changed. $275 my ass! when i called after the first day the second time to ask when i could have the truck back the service writer said the mechanic cant get the old ball joints out so now hes going to have to cut them out with a torch. yoiks theyre supposed to be pressed in and out. i didnt see any torch damage but with all the other mistakes im suspicious. when they called and asked for feedback on the service i gave it 1 out of 10 only because the shuttle bus driver was nice and said i wasnt likely to ever go back. they said well get the service manager to call you to discuss your concerns. that was two weeks ago - havent heard from him. maybe ill send him this rant and suggest that im going to forward it to the 5-star people and see if that gets a reaction. i still like the truck a lot but ill get my service done elsewhere. cheers joe 04 ram 3500 ctd .
From : jmc
suddenly without warning nospam.clare.nce@sny.der.on.ca exclaimed 12-jun-05 230 am on sat 11 jun 2005 214018 gmt tbone t-bonenospam@nc.rr.com wrote on sat 11 jun 2005 012043 gmt tbone t-bonenospam@nc.rr.com wrote you are assuming that burn rate and octane rating are related. also asuming higher octane fuel burns slower. this asumption is not necessarily true. but it is not false either and i am not the one saying high octane fuel will cause damage to certian engines the manufacturer is!!! i am simply giving a possible reason as to why. the burn rate of a fuel is a measurement of the time required for complete combustion of the air/fuel mixture. the notion that octane ratings affect the burn rate of fuel is about 180-degrees from reality. really how octane is a level of fuel stability and it is impossible to make a given fuel more stable without affecting the burn rate. burn rate is a function of several variables and the two are completely independent. although there is generally a correlation between octane ratings and burn rates the fuel mixture ratio has a lot more effect on burn rate than octane rating does. hahahaha talk about doubletalk. while as you say many variables that can effect the burn rate there cannot be a correlation between octane ratings and burn rate unless octane ratings effect the burn rate as well regardless of the effect the mixture or other variables may also have on it. to give you a good example of this jim wurth from sunoco race fuels. explains a perfect example is sunoco maximal which is our fastest burning fuel and coincidentally one of sunocos highest octane fuels at 116 r+m/2. a lot of pro stock teams rely on maximal for those sub-seven second runs. when they are turning 9000rpm or more the fuel has to burn pretty quickly to achieve complete combustion. do you really think that you can put this in your car and it will run ok you are also comparing apples to airplanes. this is a racing fuel refined for specific needs that are very different than that of automotive fuel. if you dropped the octane rating of this specific fuel it would burn even faster but at a cost of significant instability that is simply not worth the small increase in speed. however he also says aviation high octane fuel has a significantly lower burn rate being designed to run in engines running at 3000rpm and less. it is not a good idea to run avgas in a car. it would not be a good idea to put either one of these fuels in a modern fuel injected vehicle. either one would make the vehicle run like shit because the computer is not set up for the characteristics of either one of these fuels. but - add a small amount of leaded avgas to unleaded mogas and the octane increases significantly more than the mathemathical ratio would suggest without slowing the burn rate appreciably. but here is the key word appreciably. iow it will slow down the burn rate just not by a huge amount. the problem is that it doesnt have to be slowed down by a huge amount for a computerized emissions specific computer to react to it. one reason some people think octane and burn rate are related is because some most high octane fuels are lower in specific gravity below 0.75than regular unleaded generally 0.75 or higher which causes the engine to actually run leaner. you really need to stop talking out of both sides of your mouth. for any specific fuel type a change in octane reflects a change in the burn rate. comparing different fuel formulations and types is like comparing apples to grapes regardless of the octane ratings. when you can provide proof that for a specific fuel changes in the octane ratings have no effect at all on the burn rate then you win and perhaps you can then inform the manufacturers of the vehicles that they are wrong and should remove their bogus warnings as well but until then... burn rate of a lean mixture is slower than burn rate of a rich mixture. ok im not going to argue this or the reasons for it but lets put your claim to work. for a specific fuel type and or make an increased octane rating indicates a slower burn rate and nothing that you have said so far says anything different. if the computer in the vehicles with this warning are configured based on the burn rate of regular unleaded with tight emission tolerances the slightly slower burn rate of super will cause the computer to see a rich condition. since these computers are configured to control emissions over performance it will probably cut back the injector pulse width to lean out the mixture. now according to you that will slow the burn rate down even further and may make the computer think that the problem has not improved enough for the current reduction or may have gotten worse. either way now it will further lean out the mixture and / or increase the timing until the o2 sensor indicates that the
From : tbone
tbone wrote as for me since you are completely unable to make any point at all im done with this. lol another several paragraphs of drabble out of you...and yet youre done with this lol. too funny but i hope you keep your word. .
From : max dodge
quick question gary and not to dispute your points more for my education. under full throttle and as slower speeds or rpms wouldnt the computer force both an unlock of the converter and a shift out of overdrive -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving on sun 12 jun 2005 141626 gmt transurgeon nobulltrans@mchsi.dotcom wrote nate; the problem is lubrication to the od section the od kinda sucks hind tit in that unit..............it gets the leftovers from cooler flow after the pressure regulator sends fluid to control and clutch pack circuits plus the cooler flow is hot fluid in spite of the cooler now your truck should have a very good cooler alongside the ac condenser on the drivers side its as good as any aftermarket plus it is situated for good air-flow but still thats a long way to tow in od but no i would keep it in 3rd since then the netire od gear-set rotates as a locked unit...........the only place i would try od and its your call would be across il in ia and eastern sd or nd if you go that route as soon as you hit hills or even rolling terrain get back in 3rd hey if youre worried about taking extra time the spare bedroom is available stop by were 120 miles south of i-80 and then you can catch i-72 east to contunue east; or take i-72 to here then head up to the quad cites and i-80 going west gary i appreciate your answer gary. the to tow in overdrive question is probably the biggest single debate on tdr almost like our k&n . at my local dealer at one in vegas at one in pahrump and at two others in big cities out here in the west i spoke to the tranny guy about this. all of them sufggested that i tow with overdrive locked out. they all said the only thing id lose is a little mileage that i couldnt hurt the engine. they all felt that overdrive in either the 47re or the 48re wont hold up to towing. they all felt tha the 48re was a significant improvement over the 47re but not necessarily in the overdrive area. the owner of dtt tranny specialistics for diesels in washington also agreed. so i tow with overdrive locked out. but only due to what i have been told i am not a tranny tech or mechanically inclined in that area so i rely on the advise of others. i still read a lot of threads on tdr from guys with 47res and 48res that have towed big trailers with overdrive on for thousands of miles without any apparent problems at all though so the debate goes on. well as i said its a lube issue consider this the cummins has low-end torque out the wazoo that means it will lug down before it shifts out of od; my expereince with this unit is that it takes a sharp jab on the pedal to force a kick-down if you gradually apply pressure you can have the pedal to the floor and still not shift down now consider the factors here 1 bogged down if the converter unlocks that means gobs of heat even if it doesnt unlock the factors below come into play 2 pedal to the floor pressures to clutch packs to the max less flow to converter 3 lower ground speed less air flow thru cooler 4 lugging engine radiator temp is up cooler flow is first thru air cooler then thru radiator cooler at least on the ones ive seen 5 lower engine speed means lower pump output less overall flow now one or two of these factors wont do in the od but add em all up and you have an od section that is being lubed by an insufficient flow of very hot fluid under extreme strain as the engine speed drops and individual pulses of power become more pronounced and the reuslts cannot be good. g .
From : max dodge
it appears that i got my fuel burn rates regarding rich / lean mixtures completely backwards oh well. well await the apologies you owe for calling people names and being rude when you were in fact wrong. probably wont happen oh well. -- max give a man a match and he is warm for a short while. light him on fire and he is warm for the rest of his life. just some more to think about. have a good weekend. excellent response thank you. it appears that i got my fuel burn rates regarding rich / lean mixtures completely backwards oh well. now it looks to me like those warnings could be to prevent a possible rich run condition that would cause premature converter failures that the companies would have to pay for. you have a good weekend as well and thanks again. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : tbone
that would be correct but a blowout on a front tire at that speed with a trailer that heavy gets you just as dead regardless of the landscape. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving do you really think traveling at 85 mph with over 9000 pounds behind you is a good idea just a guess youve never been to montana -- nathan w. collier http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com .
From : Annonymous
whats your goal i mean how will you be different from the many others out there that might help in coming up with a name. clay with the help of several others i hope to launch a cummins/dodge enthusiast website/forum in the next week or so. i already own turbodieselforum.com but im not ready to commit to it. im seeking suggestions on a better domain name. if you have anything you feel would make a good domain please run it through http//domaincheck.com to make sure its available and then email it to me here -- http//tinyurl.com/3h8bo thanks! -- nathan w. collier http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com .
From : tbone
with the help of several others i hope to launch a cummins/dodge enthusiast website/forum in the next week or so. i already own turbodieselforum.com but im not ready to commit to it. im seeking suggestions on a better domain name. if you have anything you feel would make a good domain please run it through http//domaincheck.com to make sure its available and then email it to me here -- http//tinyurl.com/3h8bo thanks! -- nathan w. collier http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com you gonna have nekkid wimmen again ;^ mike .
From : jeff mayner
on sat 11 jun 2005 214018 gmt tbone t-bonenospam@nc.rr.com wrote on sat 11 jun 2005 012043 gmt tbone t-bonenospam@nc.rr.com wrote you are assuming that burn rate and octane rating are related. also asuming higher octane fuel burns slower. this asumption is not necessarily true. but it is not false either and i am not the one saying high octane fuel will cause damage to certian engines the manufacturer is!!! i am simply giving a possible reason as to why. the burn rate of a fuel is a measurement of the time required for complete combustion of the air/fuel mixture. the notion that octane ratings affect the burn rate of fuel is about 180-degrees from reality. really how octane is a level of fuel stability and it is impossible to make a given fuel more stable without affecting the burn rate. burn rate is a function of several variables and the two are completely independent. although there is generally a correlation between octane ratings and burn rates the fuel mixture ratio has a lot more effect on burn rate than octane rating does. hahahaha talk about doubletalk. while as you say many variables that can effect the burn rate there cannot be a correlation between octane ratings and burn rate unless octane ratings effect the burn rate as well regardless of the effect the mixture or other variables may also have on it. to give you a good example of this jim wurth from sunoco race fuels. explains a perfect example is sunoco maximal which is our fastest burning fuel and coincidentally one of sunocos highest octane fuels at 116 r+m/2. a lot of pro stock teams rely on maximal for those sub-seven second runs. when they are turning 9000rpm or more the fuel has to burn pretty quickly to achieve complete combustion. do you really think that you can put this in your car and it will run ok you are also comparing apples to airplanes. this is a racing fuel refined for specific needs that are very different than that of automotive fuel. if you dropped the octane rating of this specific fuel it would burn even faster but at a cost of significant instability that is simply not worth the small increase in speed. however he also says aviation high octane fuel has a significantly lower burn rate being designed to run in engines running at 3000rpm and less. it is not a good idea to run avgas in a car. it would not be a good idea to put either one of these fuels in a modern fuel injected vehicle. either one would make the vehicle run like shit because the computer is not set up for the characteristics of either one of these fuels. but - add a small amount of leaded avgas to unleaded mogas and the octane increases significantly more than the mathemathical ratio would suggest without slowing the burn rate appreciably. but here is the key word appreciably. iow it will slow down the burn rate just not by a huge amount. the problem is that it doesnt have to be slowed down by a huge amount for a computerized emissions specific computer to react to it. one reason some people think octane and burn rate are related is because some most high octane fuels are lower in specific gravity below 0.75than regular unleaded generally 0.75 or higher which causes the engine to actually run leaner. you really need to stop talking out of both sides of your mouth. for any specific fuel type a change in octane reflects a change in the burn rate. comparing different fuel formulations and types is like comparing apples to grapes regardless of the octane ratings. when you can provide proof that for a specific fuel changes in the octane ratings have no effect at all on the burn rate then you win and perhaps you can then inform the manufacturers of the vehicles that they are wrong and should remove their bogus warnings as well but until then... burn rate of a lean mixture is slower than burn rate of a rich mixture. ok im not going to argue this or the reasons for it but lets put your claim to work. for a specific fuel type and or make an increased octane rating indicates a slower burn rate and nothing that you have said so far says anything different. if the computer in the vehicles with this warning are configured based on the burn rate of regular unleaded with tight emission tolerances the slightly slower burn rate of super will cause the computer to see a rich condition. since these computers are configured to control emissions over performance it will probably cut back the injector pulse width to lean out the mixture. now according to you that will slow the burn rate down even further and may make the computer think that the problem has not improved enough for the current reduction or may have gotten worse. either way now it will further lean out the mixture and / or increase the timing until the o2 sensor indicates that the emissions are within specifications. lean mixtures burn hotter and are far more unstable and
From : miles
on sun 12 jun 2005 001358 -0400 hawkeye65 addisons65@nospam.comcast.net wrote i have an 03 dodge ram 1500 quad-cab 4x4 with the 4.7l engine. i was wanting to know if someone could point me to a web page that would provide towing capacities for this truck especially as it relates to 5th wheel towing. tia hawkeye65 though my truck is 2x4 the towing capacites are close to the same. max vehicle load 6650 max gcvw 14000 weight of truck wet & with gear passengers 5880 max trailer weight wet and loaded 8120 that said max is not a good thing rule of thumb 75% to 80% of max gcvw is the range to look for. that puts me in the 5300 lb wet range as the max weight towable i addition you need to look at pin/tounge weight to ensure you dont go above the max vehicle load rating. happy camping. ldpoos@nopants.juno.com remove nopants to reply by direct e-mail; 2003 dodge 1500 qc sb hemi a/t tow package 3.92 gears 11 mpg towing 2001 aerolite 21rdb 21ft tt scales 2900 dry .
From : tbone
tbone wrote lol nice try max but the truth is that you didnt say anything of value in your previous post and as usual trying to take credit for someone elses knowledge. btw who is the we you are talking about go back to your corner troll boy. nice try at avoiding an apology tbone. you ranted all over against me saying i didnt know how engines worked. who gives a rats ass about credit. is that what this is all about to you fact is you were wrong and are not big enough to apologize for your long winded rants. .
From : miles
on sun 12 jun 2005 141626 gmt transurgeon nobulltrans@mchsi.dotcom wrote nate; the problem is lubrication to the od section the od kinda sucks hind tit in that unit..............it gets the leftovers from cooler flow after the pressure regulator sends fluid to control and clutch pack circuits plus the cooler flow is hot fluid in spite of the cooler now your truck should have a very good cooler alongside the ac condenser on the drivers side its as good as any aftermarket plus it is situated for good air-flow but still thats a long way to tow in od but no i would keep it in 3rd since then the netire od gear-set rotates as a locked unit...........the only place i would try od and its your call would be across il in ia and eastern sd or nd if you go that route as soon as you hit hills or even rolling terrain get back in 3rd hey if youre worried about taking extra time the spare bedroom is available stop by were 120 miles south of i-80 and then you can catch i-72 east to contunue east; or take i-72 to here then head up to the quad cites and i-80 going west gary i appreciate your answer gary. the to tow in overdrive question is probably the biggest single debate on tdr almost like our k&n . at my local dealer at one in vegas at one in pahrump and at two others in big cities out here in the west i spoke to the tranny guy about this. all of them sufggested that i tow with overdrive locked out. they all said the only thing id lose is a little mileage that i couldnt hurt the engine. they all felt that overdrive in either the 47re or the 48re wont hold up to towing. they all felt tha the 48re was a significant improvement over the 47re but not necessarily in the overdrive area. the owner of dtt tranny specialistics for diesels in washington also agreed. so i tow with overdrive locked out. but only due to what i have been told i am not a tranny tech or mechanically inclined in that area so i rely on the advise of others. i still read a lot of threads on tdr from guys with 47res and 48res that have towed big trailers with overdrive on for thousands of miles without any apparent problems at all though so the debate goes on. well as i said its a lube issue consider this the cummins has low-end torque out the wazoo that means it will lug down before it shifts out of od; my expereince with this unit is that it takes a sharp jab on the pedal to force a kick-down if you gradually apply pressure you can have the pedal to the floor and still not shift down now consider the factors here 1 bogged down if the converter unlocks that means gobs of heat even if it doesnt unlock the factors below come into play 2 pedal to the floor pressures to clutch packs to the max less flow to converter 3 lower ground speed less air flow thru cooler 4 lugging engine radiator temp is up cooler flow is first thru air cooler then thru radiator cooler at least on the ones ive seen 5 lower engine speed means lower pump output less overall flow now one or two of these factors wont do in the od but add em all up and you have an od section that is being lubed by an insufficient flow of very hot fluid under extreme strain as the engine speed drops and individual pulses of power become more pronounced and the reuslts cannot be good. g .
From : max dodge
nate lemme stick my .02 in here. if i had to choose id pull it with the 04 since its got the better hp but also because its got the 48re which is a couple of steps better than the 47re in the 01. in particular the 48 has more clutches in the od unit and a stronger planetary set. as to your cooler id definitely run an aux. cooler mounted as far from the a/c condenser as possible. at 80mph a fan is probably useless since i doubt any electric fan could move air that fast. not sure how much effect or if its compatible with the cummins engine management but id also put a cooler tstat in there which will lower the coolant temp that flows over the radiator tank mounted cooler if so equipped. id also install a trans temp guage just to monitor the temp. better to stop and relax over dinner than be stopped in the middle of nowhere and wonder if you will get dinner. -- max give a man a match and he is warm for a short while. light him on fire and he is warm for the rest of his life. gary ill soon be travelling over 2000 miles to tow over 9000 pounds total loaded weight of trailer back to billings. 2000 miles is a looong way in 3rd gear. is there anything i can do on my 01.5 cummins that will enable me to safely use overdrive would a fan blown external cooler do the trick anything i could do on my 04.5 cummins ......this is why my 02 dually purchase pending will have a 6 speed. the cummins doesnt like 85mph in 3rd gear. thanks -- nathan w. collier http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com .
From : tbone
i just bought a used 2003 dak quad cab.25000 miles. it pulled to the right when i test drove it dealer said he would align it still pulled to the right. i took it to another shop and they realigned it it still pulled the right so they checked it again and it still does it. it does not pull any worse when you apply the brakes it just takes a slight pressure on the steering wheel to keep it from running off the road on the right side. it even does it if you drive on the wrong side of the road where the crown of the road should make it pull slightly to the left. any ideas the last shop thought it might be a bad brake caliper the right side pad seems to be worn a little more than the left. i already checked/greased the caliper slide bolts. does anyone have any other suggestions tia tom .
From : snoman
tbone wrote tbone wrote iirc the problem with using high octane fuel stems from the computer. it seems that the longer burn time of higher octane fuel fools the computer into thinking that the engine is running rich and causes it to lean the engine out. running lean itself is not a particularly good thing for the engine and will be reflected in a loss of power not to mention heat which could cause detonation another bad thing for the engine. this could not be further from the truth and does not warrant further comment. and those that cannot or do not explain there answers are usually full of shit. no only those that claim thing that are without merit like premium being harmfull. i could go into a long explaination why but you have already made up your mind so it is would be a wasted effort but i would explain why to anyone else that honestly wants to know why. first of all i never claimed it that would be the manufacturer who i would believe knows far more about their vehicle than you do. second your childish response further proves that you really dont know wtf you are talking about here. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : tbone
i have an 05 dakota 4x4 qc and had a question about something. i was planning on doing some yardwork in the next few days and have a few bushes to take out. i was wondering if it would be ok to dig around them and then chain them to the truck and where would be the best place to attach them to the truck. would it damage the truck to pull too hard or can a dakota even handle something like pulling stumps thanks for your help .
From : transurgeon
on wed 8 jun 2005 192429 -0500 mike simmons mikesim@yhti.net wrote yeah nate it aint rocket science just set the damned thing up so it feels good and hook up the trailer an go! some small tweaks may be required but by and large you just let the prodigy do its thing! mike well put mike... basically this is a controller thats designed to be used by every day folks that may or may not be installing it themselves... i think that once nate hooks up and plays with it for an hour or so on varying conditions hell feel comfortable about setting his wife loose with it.. ymmv mac please remove splinters before emailing .
From : tbone
on thu 9 jun 2005 002815 -0600 nathan w. collier montanajeeper@aol.com wrote the man made a reasonable comment nate. you seem to be the one actin like a pompous ass. when you see me offer anything beyond a helpful response to a realistic on topic question your statement may mean something. im new to the boost feature and dont find anything unreasonable in my questions. there are no dumb questions only dumb ass responses from judgemental pricks that want to elevate themselves by stepping on others. and i didnt read his response as being anything other than a humerous comment on what you had been saying. i think most of us feel like you are over stressing out on this. thats cool maybe that is just your style. i do that sometimes too. i try to think about all the possible problems and issues well ahead of time so i am ready to go when the time comes. my friends tease me about that all the time. that is all i thought that he was doing. wasnt a big deal and i read it as all in the spirit of fun. .
From : miles
tbone wrote tbone wrote iirc the problem with using high octane fuel stems from the computer. it seems that the longer burn time of higher octane fuel fools the computer into thinking that the engine is running rich and causes it to lean the engine out. running lean itself is not a particularly good thing for the engine and will be reflected in a loss of power not to mention heat which could cause detonation another bad thing for the engine. this could not be further from the truth and does not warrant further comment. and those that cannot or do not explain there answers are usually full of shit. no only those that claim thing that are without merit like premium being harmfull. i could go into a long explaination why but you have already made up your mind so it is would be a wasted effort but i would explain why to anyone else that honestly wants to know why. first of all i never claimed it that would be the manufacturer who i would believe knows far more about their vehicle than you do. second your childish response further proves that you really dont know wtf you are talking about here. you want some real grins check out his idiotic responses about gm ac in alt.autos.4x4.chevy.trucks leprechaun in suburban ac unit and in alt.trucks.ford in 91 f150 towing capacity where his claim to his knowledge about the aod is probaly a lot more familar with transmisson and gear limitations than you think! i actually have a working 83 aod in the barn right now. pull from a vehical i junked out .
From : tbone
only two now how do you manage - which ones do you still have -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving lol look who is talking about a fleet - hey... im down to two .
From : tbone
4.10s were available in 02 regardless of tranny... the 3.73 didnt become available until 03 with the new body style good info thanks. why would you run 3.54s on a dually set up for towing several i looked at online had 5th wheels/goosenecks with the 3.54s. you trying to build your own fleet heh something like that. im getting ready to launch a business and need a dually. mainly it will replace the 01.5. -- nathan w. collier http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com .
From : snoman
anyone know if they are ever going to install the 6.1 hemi in the ram. thanks. .
From : Annonymous
how do you know where or what i live on from your message header message-id limpe.29$hk.20509@twister.southeast.rr.com date thu 09 jun 2005 004531 gmt nntp-posting-host 66.57.115.196 x-complaints-to abuse@rr.com x-trace twister.southeast.rr.com 1118277931 66.57.115.196 wed 08 jun 2005 204531 edt nntp-posting-date wed 08 jun 2005 204531 edt organization roadrunner - triad southeast road runner would put you in the south east. i question your confidence not where you drive. if youre afraid to set up a simple trailer brake maybe you ought not try to tackle the more complicated stuff like actually towing. it has nothing to do with confidence or a simple setup. i am making certain that i understand the settings and boost before pulling 10000 pounds on grades youve most likely never imagined existed on public roads. maybe you should try either being helpful keeping quiet or something beyond being a pompous ass. incidentally there are mountains all around me. lol.....i used to call those hills mountains too once upon a time. - -- nathan w. collier http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com .
From : tbone
nah...not unloaded just watch the trailer in the mirror youll see it start vibrating before the real serious hop sets in youll know when you go too far.....severe tire hop on the trailer !!!! heh. yeah but then i get flat spots on the tires. -- nathan w. collier http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com .
From : tom lawrencejmc
the rating on the hitch is tongue weight. i understand how it all works. what i dont understand is why they would put such a weak hitch on a truck rated to more than 2 times that much. -- nathan w. collier http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com .
From : Annonymous
rock on man i we might have to plan a trip up that way and check it out. im up for a road trip and vacation! by long steep grades i presume youre talking about going in the east entrance nice pictures nate the gcoty is really awesome aint it g during my recent vacation we took a trip to yellowstone. i gotta few pictures up http//utilityoffroad.com/forum/topic.asptopicid=4365 with more and video to come. check back on that thread for more. the wifey didnt want the dog riding in the new dodge so we took the 01.5. my brother brought his suburban but after trying to keep up with my cummins on the long steep grades hes now shopping for an 03 3500 short bed. - -- nathan w. collier http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com .
From : clt
nate cant read! lol nathan w. collier wrote my 7x18 enclosed trailer came in and i was really surprised to see that while dodge rates my 01.5 2500 cummins to pull nearly 13000 pounds they put a hitch on it rated for only 5000 pounds. this makes no sense to me....is this a liability thing or is it really only capable of pulling 5000 pounds on a standard non-distributing hitch also please see http//utilityoffroad.com/forum/topic.asptopicid=4364 and take a look at the adjustable hitch i bought. i was a bit reluctant because its made of aluminum but i was assured by the shop owner that although he sold more expensive hitches that this was the strongest one he carried. anybody have any experience with these my sticker from my 04.5 cummins says class iv hitch so im not concerned about that one. i just dont know why they would put such a light receiver on the 01.5. the receiver hitch on mine is rated at 5000# but also 10000# with a weight distributing hitch. if you read the fine print in your owners manual you may find the same thing. -- .bob 1997 hd fxdwg - turbocharged! 2001 dodge dakota qc 5.9/4x4/3.92 1966 mustang coupe - daily driver 1966 ffr cobra - ongoing project .
From : steve lusardi
wow. i always thought it could do damage if you went the other way putting lower octane gas into an engine requiring high although todays engines can compensate for it. years ago when gas was cheaper heh heh. remember when i would sometimes put higher octane gas in my car even though it served no purpose whatsoever in my car. im curious to know the answer to your question. as some of you know im a 2001 dakota owner who is currently stationed overseas. the base just upgraded the gas station and in their infinite wisdom now only offer 95 octane gas. my owners manual says my engine could be damaged if i use high octane. will it really if this can indeed damage my engine id like to know how and if theres any way additives id be able to use this gas. otherwise i have to use more expensive options which may include paying the current $6.50 per gallon which is what we pay here with the currently high exchange rate. thanks for any advice! jmc .
From : transurgeon
by long steep grades i presume youre talking about going in the east entrance nice pictures nate the gcoty is really awesome aint it g during my recent vacation we took a trip to yellowstone. i gotta few pictures up http//utilityoffroad.com/forum/topic.asptopicid=4365 with more and video to come. check back on that thread for more. the wifey didnt want the dog riding in the new dodge so we took the 01.5. my brother brought his suburban but after trying to keep up with my cummins on the long steep grades hes now shopping for an 03 3500 short bed. - -- nathan w. collier http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com .
From : ben in tn
nate; ive got the sentinel model and i just crank up the gain till it feels like theres no trailer back there idsay you need a bit more if you feel a push when braking g i got my prodigy installed and it seems to be stopping the trailer just fine but im unsure of the adjustments. the video said to slide the manual lever all the way to the left and adjust the setting to 6.0 volts and then adjust as needed to get the wheels just before lock up. well i dont know how to tell when im just before lock up. i do feel a slight push when im stopping. not bad but slight. also do i need to reset this as my load changes i just cant see how 6 volts would provide the same stopping power at 3000 pounds as it would at 10000 pounds. thanks -- nathan w. collier http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com .
From : snoman
nice stuff on the site. you obviously practice do-it-yourself but somehow didnt want to preach it at least not to me unless you were joking. btw the datsun 2000 roadster has always been one of my favorite cars. one of my best friends from hs had one and it was fast. id think about selling that little 1600 though .... she obviously likes it in the rear and that might get you killed one of these days martin jr north wrote i guess you didnt visit my webpage... jr dweller in the cellar .
From : Annonymous
as some of you know im a 2001 dakota owner who is currently stationed overseas. the base just upgraded the gas station and in their infinite wisdom now only offer 95 octane gas. my owners manual says my engine could be damaged if i use high octane. will it really if this can indeed damage my engine id like to know how and if theres any way additives id be able to use this gas. otherwise i have to use more expensive options which may include paying the current $6.50 per gallon which is what we pay here with the currently high exchange rate. thanks for any advice! jmc i wouldnt lose a minutes sleep over it. i imagine that your owners manual when talking about high octane is referring to 100+ octane racing fuel but still i dont know why it would harm the engine. higher octane fuel doesnt ignite as easily as lower octane fuel. with higher octane fuel you have a more controlled burn than with lower octane fuel and that is why you have detonation with low octane fuel because it so easily ignites = pre-ignition. with todays newer engines many have a higher compression ratio than they had 10 years ago. the computers on todays vehicles try to adjust for the lower octane fuel to keep them from the pinging pre-ignition. back in the late 60s when you had such high horsepower engines coming stock in musclecars they were running 101 compression or higher and they had higher octane fuel at the local gas station. now weve got the high compression ratios back in quite a few new engines and are using the computers to retard the timing so that they run on 87 octane fuel without damaging the engine from lack of octane. if the compression ratio of your engine is not high enough to require high octane fuel then you dont need it. 2 octane points above the normal premium gas here in the states will make next to no difference at all except your engine may run better and cooler and if it pinged on 87 octane fuel you will not have to worry about it pinging anymore. ben in tn .
From : steve w
steve lusardi wrote n but it will your wallet. that part is really debateable because some modern hi compression engines really need more than 87 to run at their fullest potentail and will run better and get better fuel mileage with it. while maybe they might not all gain all for my vehicals do especailly in hot weather and even my wife 4cyl 2000 cherokee runs noticably smooth at speed and picks up 1 or 2 mpg as well when she uses it during the warmer months. besdie at today prices it is only 4 to 6% for premium and i gain more than that back in performance and mpg in my cars so it is actually cheaper to run premium for me. -- posted using the http//www.autoforumz.com interface at authors request articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards topic url http//www.autoforumz.com/dodge-high-octane-damage-engine-ftopict123488.html visit topic url to contact author reg. reqd. report abuse http//www.autoforumz.com/eform.phpp=601052 .
From : max dodge
hey max. whats up. talk about pkb now gfy -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving really how octane is a level of fuel stability and it is impossible to make a given fuel more stable without affecting the burn rate. i see you are up to your usual bullshit. you obviously dont understand what octane does for a fuel. shut up now. -- max give a man a match and he is warm for a short while. light him on fire and he is warm for the rest of his life. on sat 11 jun 2005 012043 gmt tbone t-bonenospam@nc.rr.com wrote you are assuming that burn rate and octane rating are related. also asuming higher octane fuel burns slower. this asumption is not necessarily true. but it is not false either and i am not the one saying high octane fuel will cause damage to certian engines the manufacturer is!!! i am simply giving a possible reason as to why. the burn rate of a fuel is a measurement of the time required for complete combustion of the air/fuel mixture. the notion that octane ratings affect the burn rate of fuel is about 180-degrees from reality. really how octane is a level of fuel stability and it is impossible to make a given fuel more stable without affecting the burn rate. burn rate is a function of several variables and the two are completely independent. although there is generally a correlation between octane ratings and burn rates the fuel mixture ratio has a lot more effect on burn rate than octane rating does. hahahaha talk about doubletalk. while as you say many variables that can effect the burn rate there cannot be a correlation between octane ratings and burn rate unless octane ratings effect the burn rate as well regardless of the effect the mixture or other variables may also have on it. to give you a good example of this jim wurth from sunoco race fuels. explains a perfect example is sunoco maximal which is our fastest burning fuel and coincidentally one of sunocos highest octane fuels at 116 r+m/2. a lot of pro stock teams rely on maximal for those sub-seven second runs. when they are turning 9000rpm or more the fuel has to burn pretty quickly to achieve complete combustion. do you really think that you can put this in your car and it will run ok you are also comparing apples to airplanes. this is a racing fuel refined for specific needs that are very different than that of automotive fuel. if you dropped the octane rating of this specific fuel it would burn even faster but at a cost of significant instability that is simply not worth the small increase in speed. however he also says aviation high octane fuel has a significantly lower burn rate being designed to run in engines running at 3000rpm and less. it is not a good idea to run avgas in a car. it would not be a good idea to put either one of these fuels in a modern fuel injected vehicle. either one would make the vehicle run like shit because the computer is not set up for the characteristics of either one of these fuels. but - add a small amount of leaded avgas to unleaded mogas and the octane increases significantly more than the mathemathical ratio would suggest without slowing the burn rate appreciably. but here is the key word appreciably. iow it will slow down the burn rate just not by a huge amount. the problem is that it doesnt have to be slowed down by a huge amount for a computerized emissions specific computer to react to it. one reason some people think octane and burn rate are related is because some most high octane fuels are lower in specific gravity below 0.75than regular unleaded generally 0.75 or higher which causes the engine to actually run leaner. you really need to stop talking out of both sides of your mouth. for any specific fuel type a change in octane reflects a change in the burn rate. comparing different fuel formulations and types is like comparing apples to grapes regardless of the octane ratings. when you can provide proof that for a specific fuel changes in the octane ratings have no effect at all on the burn rate then you win and perhaps you can then inform the manufacturers of the vehicles that they are wrong and should remove their bogus warnings as well but until then... burn rate of a lean mixture is slower than burn rate of a rich mixture. ok im not going to argue this or the reasons for it but lets put your claim to work. for a specific fuel type and or make an increased octane rating indicates a slower burn rate and nothing that you have said so far says anything different. if the computer in the vehicles with this warning are configured based on the burn rate of regular unleaded with tight emission tolerances the slightly slower burn rate of super will cause the computer to see a rich condition. since these computers are configured to control emissions over performance it will probably cut back the inje
From : Annonymous
with the help of several others i hope to launch a cummins/dodge enthusiast website/forum in the next week or so. i already own turbodieselforum.com but im not ready to commit to it. im seeking suggestions on a better domain name. if you have anything you feel would make a good domain please run it through http//domaincheck.com to make sure its available and then email it to me here -- http//tinyurl.com/3h8bo thanks! -- nathan w. collier http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com .
From : tbone
really how octane is a level of fuel stability and it is impossible to make a given fuel more stable without affecting the burn rate. i see you are up to your usual bullshit. you obviously dont understand what octane does for a fuel. shut up now. -- max give a man a match and he is warm for a short while. light him on fire and he is warm for the rest of his life. on sat 11 jun 2005 012043 gmt tbone t-bonenospam@nc.rr.com wrote you are assuming that burn rate and octane rating are related. also asuming higher octane fuel burns slower. this asumption is not necessarily true. but it is not false either and i am not the one saying high octane fuel will cause damage to certian engines the manufacturer is!!! i am simply giving a possible reason as to why. the burn rate of a fuel is a measurement of the time required for complete combustion of the air/fuel mixture. the notion that octane ratings affect the burn rate of fuel is about 180-degrees from reality. really how octane is a level of fuel stability and it is impossible to make a given fuel more stable without affecting the burn rate. burn rate is a function of several variables and the two are completely independent. although there is generally a correlation between octane ratings and burn rates the fuel mixture ratio has a lot more effect on burn rate than octane rating does. hahahaha talk about doubletalk. while as you say many variables that can effect the burn rate there cannot be a correlation between octane ratings and burn rate unless octane ratings effect the burn rate as well regardless of the effect the mixture or other variables may also have on it. to give you a good example of this jim wurth from sunoco race fuels. explains a perfect example is sunoco maximal which is our fastest burning fuel and coincidentally one of sunocos highest octane fuels at 116 r+m/2. a lot of pro stock teams rely on maximal for those sub-seven second runs. when they are turning 9000rpm or more the fuel has to burn pretty quickly to achieve complete combustion. do you really think that you can put this in your car and it will run ok you are also comparing apples to airplanes. this is a racing fuel refined for specific needs that are very different than that of automotive fuel. if you dropped the octane rating of this specific fuel it would burn even faster but at a cost of significant instability that is simply not worth the small increase in speed. however he also says aviation high octane fuel has a significantly lower burn rate being designed to run in engines running at 3000rpm and less. it is not a good idea to run avgas in a car. it would not be a good idea to put either one of these fuels in a modern fuel injected vehicle. either one would make the vehicle run like shit because the computer is not set up for the characteristics of either one of these fuels. but - add a small amount of leaded avgas to unleaded mogas and the octane increases significantly more than the mathemathical ratio would suggest without slowing the burn rate appreciably. but here is the key word appreciably. iow it will slow down the burn rate just not by a huge amount. the problem is that it doesnt have to be slowed down by a huge amount for a computerized emissions specific computer to react to it. one reason some people think octane and burn rate are related is because some most high octane fuels are lower in specific gravity below 0.75than regular unleaded generally 0.75 or higher which causes the engine to actually run leaner. you really need to stop talking out of both sides of your mouth. for any specific fuel type a change in octane reflects a change in the burn rate. comparing different fuel formulations and types is like comparing apples to grapes regardless of the octane ratings. when you can provide proof that for a specific fuel changes in the octane ratings have no effect at all on the burn rate then you win and perhaps you can then inform the manufacturers of the vehicles that they are wrong and should remove their bogus warnings as well but until then... burn rate of a lean mixture is slower than burn rate of a rich mixture. ok im not going to argue this or the reasons for it but lets put your claim to work. for a specific fuel type and or make an increased octane rating indicates a slower burn rate and nothing that you have said so far says anything different. if the computer in the vehicles with this warning are configured based on the burn rate of regular unleaded with tight emission tolerances the slightly slower burn rate of super will cause the computer to see a rich condition. since these computers are configured to control emissions over performance it will probably cut back the injector pulse width to lean out the mixture. now according to you that will slow the burn rate down even further and may make the com
From : miles
are you sure that it was battery acid and not delamination maybe it is just the 97s or with my luck my particular truck. what color is yours -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving how is your paint holding up on your 95 fine except for the spots on the front fender where i apparently dripped battery acid other than the usual chips and scratches i cant complain about it. .
From : tbone
tbone wrote lol you really are funny miles. there was nothing rambling about it you either just cant understand it or you are just not man enough to admit to possibly being wrong. i believe that it is a lot of both. lol and i thought that i was bad. please prove even one of my points wrong oh thats right you cant and yet you still insist on me being wrong. sorry miles but until you do you are just being a whining crybaby that just likes to argue with nothing to back it up. tbone look at that crap you just wrote! if that aint a pure sad lonely troll! geez some ppls kids. crap doesnt need to be proven wrong! now be silent! .
From : miles
134a started being used in 91 and was fully implemented in the us by 1995. depending on the manufacturer you could have either one even in the same model line. one i can tell you about is the gm s series. the 94 s - pickups were r-134a but the s - blazers were still r-12. -- steve w tbone wrote i dont think that r134a even existed when your car was built. well it existed and was under refinement but it was not deployed yet in automotive uses it started to show up in a few cars in 92 and was every where by 94. -- posted using the http//www.autoforumz.com interface at authors request articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards topic url http//www.autoforumz.com/dodge-r12-r134a-connectors-ftopict123836.html visit topic url to contact author reg. reqd. report abuse http//www.autoforumz.com/eform.phpp=603092 ----== posted via feeds.com - unlimited-uncensored-secure usenet ==---- http//www.feeds.com the #1 group service in the world! 120000+ groups ----= east and west-coast server farms - total privacy via encryption =---- .
From : tbone
tbone wrote and yet even though you call it nonsense you were once again unable to disprove any of it. read your own rambling 2nd reply again...especially all those if if ifs...ya if!! thats the point tbone. all those ifs of yours arent typical at all. not even close. lol you really are funny miles. there was nothing rambling about it you either just cant understand it or you are just not man enough to admit to possibly being wrong. i believe that it is a lot of both. lol and i thought that i was bad. please prove even one of my points wrong oh thats right you cant and yet you still insist on me being wrong. sorry miles but until you do you are just being a whining crybaby that just likes to argue with nothing to back it up. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : j
during my recent vacation we took a trip to yellowstone. i gotta few pictures up http//utilityoffroad.com/forum/topic.asptopicid=4365 with more and video to come. check back on that thread for more. the wifey didnt want the dog riding in the new dodge so we took the 01.5. my brother brought his suburban but after trying to keep up with my cummins on the long steep grades hes now shopping for an 03 3500 short bed. - -- nathan w. collier http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com .
From : nosey
man does that bring back memories. atv babes and those jeep babes some lovely hood ornaments i dont think we can say the j word anymore. i wonder if nate has those atv and j33p pictures archived somewhere. .
From : miles
mike i. wrote have any ideas thanks lose the html tags. .
From : tbone
youll know when you go too far.....severe tire hop on the trailer !!!! heh. yeah but then i get flat spots on the tires. -- nathan w. collier http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com .
From : miles
tbone wrote whats the matter miles are you still upset perhaps you should do a little research before jumping in and making an ass out of yourself. perhaps if you knew anything about how an engine actually runs and how modern emissions systems actually work you would not be so quick to jump in and attack. lol geez me upset you just posted a friggn couple pages of rambling twisting nonsense. your own reply actually had part of the reason your logic is warped but you discounted it. higher octane fuel causes modern engines to ping. lol and yet even though you call it nonsense you were once again unable to disprove any of it. this is really getting to be a habit with you miles. instead you just ramble on making claims that show your complete lack of understanding of the operation of a modern computer controlled fuel injected engine. and yes if the slower burn rate of a higher octane fuel confuses the computer and causes it to put the engine into a lean run condition the number 1 cause of detonation in the link i gave you it in fact can cause it to ping. 93 octane fuel is far from ping proof and it is obvious that you simply didnt understand anything. you did however manage to prove me wrong on one point. i did say that i thought you were a bright guy but after this response....congratulations. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : Annonymous
probably depends on the traction you have and the size of the stumps. make sure you keep everyone clear of the back of the truck while you are pulling. if the stumps flex and the chain slips off or snaps there could be bodily injury or vehicular damage! be glad you do not have a chevy! i saw a tv commercial where a guy hooked up his chevy to a tree stump. when he pulled on the stump the whole truck stretched out! based on the ad i would guess that if you try to pull stumps with a chevy the only thing that will happen is you pull your truck apart. well with the cost difference it could be a lot cheaper to get the standard cab and just stretch it into a crew cab. my only question though is how does the middle of the truck stretch when the rear wheels are doing most the pulling .