Where to attach engine hoist on '85 360 V8?
From : doug miller
Q: buy a lift plate and lift it by the intake manifold where the carb mounts. you can also lift it by the intake manifold bolts which will have no effect on the heads. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving my 16-yo son and i are in the middle of rebuilding the 360 engine on my 85 ram long story which i wont go into here. we tore most of the engine down with it still installed in the truck; then we discovered that the crankshaft needed to be machined. so we pulled the block. attaching the hoist with the heads off was pretty easy just bolt the hoist down with two of the head bolts on each side and lift it out. so now the crank is machined and back in place with new oversize bearings the pistons in etc etc. were well into the process of reassembly and were thinking that it would be a *whole* lot easier to put the entire engine back together on a stand in the garage and hoist the complete engine into place than to reassemble it a piece at a time with the block already back in the truck. just one problem... where the heck do i attach the engine hoist if the heads are already mounted on the engine i have the original factory service manual what a piece of crap -- far and away the worst-written of the eight or nine such manuals ive owned and all that stupid thing says is attach engine lifting fixture. attach it where i dont want to hang it from the heads for fear of warping them or breaking the gasket seal and im just not too comfy with the idea of suspending a four-hundred-odd pound engine from four 5/16 exhaust manifold bolts which is the best ive been able to figure out so far. anybody have any better ideas tia... -- regards doug miller alphageek at milmac dot com .
Replies:
From : john kunkel
i found it a little weird that dodge would without consulting me first pour this product into my gas tank at the aforementioned 30k service. the only reason i know about it is that there was a little yellow card included with my receipt telling me so after the fact. the card indicates i am to see increased performance and gas mileage after about 400 miles driven. personally i never buy and use additives mystery oil etc. does anyone have any experience using this product its made by bg. is it a fe cleaner of some sort thanks for any input. jeff .
From : greg o
i dont think maz realized that we were talking about voltage drop across the wiring. i realize exactly what you were saying and i got battery voltage. sorry to disappoint you folks but i do know what i saw and how to operate a vm properly. he just looked at the empty socket found about 12 volts there and concluded that no volts dropped on the ground or something. hardly. i find it fascinating that anyone would believe that an automotive electrical system would show anything but battery voltage no matter what load was placed on it. check the voltage on the lighting circuit youll find the same voltage at the battery given the same load. you do realize that both the battery and the load are in the circuit and thus will read the same voltage right so it doesnt matter if the circuit has amp robbing stuff in it or not the voltage at the battery damn well better be the same as that in the circuit. but to say that a modern charging system with a voltage regualtor remember that cannot compensate enough to keep a nominal charge voltage of 13.5-14.5v from dipping below 12v in any circuit when the headlights are operating is reaching a bit. id be further fascinated to know what you think the voltage drop is in an ignition circuit or any of the circuits in the pcm network since you think the headlights drop the voltage so much. the voltage drop you are supposing ought to cause havok in the sensing circuits since they are monitored by the millivolt in some cases. hell with new batteries the grid heater in my 00 only drops the voltmeter on the dash from 15v to 13vengine running. ill bet it draws more than the headlights and it still cant pull enough amps to drop voltage below 12v and yet the headlamps dim. wow maybe its the amperage draw that is the cause which as i mentioned before is the reason why mr. stern supplies a heavier guage wire not the volts. or is my voltmeter incorrectly installed from the factory max life liberty and the pursuit of any jackass that threatens it. embellished usnavy slogan .
From : tom lawrence
i use a leveler simular to this one. helps alot to line thigs up. http//www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ntelargeimageviewrfno =19979&storeid=6970 greg on chevys i always used 4 intake manifold bolts. i would use longer bolts than the factory ones and lift from the two either side in front and rear. as long as the heads are torqued down you will not hurt the gaskets by lifting from the heads. i made up four chains years ago for this purpose. each chain has a piece of heavy strap welded to it with a hole in the end to bolt to the engine. what ever you do make sure any bolt you use gets shimed up with washers and drawn down tight against the lifting chain. any side force with a partially extended bolt and it will probably break! greg my 16-yo son and i are in the middle of rebuilding the 360 engine on my 85 ram long story which i wont go into here. we tore most of the engine down with it still installed in the truck; then we discovered that the crankshaft needed to be machined. so we pulled the block. attaching the hoist with the heads off was pretty easy just bolt the hoist down with two of the head bolts on each side and lift it out. so now the crank is machined and back in place with new oversize bearings the pistons in etc etc. were well into the process of reassembly and were thinking that it would be a *whole* lot easier to put the entire engine back together on a stand in the garage and hoist the complete engine into place than to reassemble it a piece at a time with the block already back in the truck. just one problem... where the heck do i attach the engine hoist if the heads are already mounted on the engine i have the original factory service manual what a piece of crap -- far and away the worst-written of the eight or nine such manuals ive owned and all that stupid thing says is attach engine lifting fixture. attach it where i dont want to hang it from the heads for fear of warping them or breaking the gasket seal and im just not too comfy with the idea of suspending a four-hundred-odd pound engine from four 5/16 exhaust manifold bolts which is the best ive been able to figure out so far. anybody have any better ideas tia... -- regards doug miller alphageek at milmac dot com .
From : greg o
bryan swadener wrote colibri wrote remember the circuit must be operating with bulbs in place and lit when you measure this. you cant remove a bulb measure across the sockets + and - terminals and say hey got about 12 volts no voltage drop. in the second instance there would be no current flow and thus no voltage drop across the wiring etc -- the voltmeter would read zero. i dont think maz realized that we were talking about voltage drop across the wiring. he just looked at the empty socket found about 12 volts there and concluded that no volts dropped on the ground or something. .
From : tbone
i dont want to hang it from the heads for fear of warping them or breaking the gasket seal and im just not too comfy with the idea of suspending a four-hundred-odd pound engine from four 5/16 exhaust manifold bolts which is the best ive been able to figure out so far. anybody have any better ideas youre not going to hurt the heads by lifting the engine... lots of times a plate will be attached to the intake manifold where the carb usually bolts up and the engine gets lifted from there. guess what the intake is bolted to yeah the heads. as for a 5/16 bolt not being strong well... my 15000lb. lift has its entire weight suspended by two 5/16 grade 8 bolts. your engine weighs in at what 500lbs. or so .