What is this part?
From : m warren
Q: my 16-yo son and i are in the middle of rebuilding the 360 engine on my 85 ram long story which i wont go into here. we tore most of the engine down with it still installed in the truck; then we discovered that the crankshaft needed to be machined. so we pulled the block. attaching the hoist with the heads off was pretty easy just bolt the hoist down with two of the head bolts on each side and lift it out. just one problem... where the heck do i attach the engine hoist if the heads are already mounted on the engine i have the original factory service manual what a piece of crap -- far and away the worst-written of the eight or nine such manuals ive owned and all that stupid thing says is attach engine lifting fixture. attach it where one end of each head and sometimes both ends will have threaded holes for mounting accesories these holes are usually threaded 3/8 or metric equivalent and are good places to attach a chain for lifting. the bolts will be loaded in shear instead of tensile. attach the chain with a bolt through one link at the front of one head and the back of the other the angle the engine hangs can be controlled by passing a long bolt through a link on either side of the hook used to suspend the engine. .
Replies:
From : mac davis
i was told that there is minor differences between the newer 600 ft lb diesel and the older model and i could install a performance chip to get the same results by installing one. well id say its a little more than minor. the block and head are similar but thats about the extent of it. the 600ft.lb. engine has entirely new fuel and induction systems sharing virtually nothing with the original 24v isb engine. however the engine in your 99 is still electronically controlled and you can increase the hp by the addition of an electronic box. now that doesnt mean you just plug in a box and go nor is that the case on the 600ft.lb. engine either. to add 200ft.lb. of torque youll be increasing your power output by about 90hp thats rear-wheel. you didnt say whether this was an automatic or manual transmission. if its an auto youll need to upgrade the transmission to handle the extra power. youll also need to add an auxillary fuel pump as the stock pump may have trouble keeping up with the increased fuel demands and the stock lift pump on those engines is a known weak spot anyway. thanks for the info. it looks like $2000 to make that happen. it maybe worth it. it will be the automatic trans. what upgrade is needed .
From : john kunkel
how might one check for shorts in the alternator it seemed to be an intermittant problem... or should i just take it off and have it bech tested somewhere finally does anyone know a good place to get a replacement harness thanks again matt i 95 3500 van 318 stopped blowing fuses and starting melting wires yesterday. so i followed the melting toi a little rubber box that mounts with three terminals to the top of the alternator... have no idea what it is. two little wires that are the right color to be fuel injection related green with orange i think that connect to two small terminals on the aternator and one large ground wire that attaches to the alternator frame and then to the engine block. the black box is a molded wire terminal for the field wires there is another lower down for the main power wire. one of the field wires orange is keyed battery voltage and the other green is a variable ground controlled by the pcm. the orange wire gets its power from a fuse #4 in the power distribution center if the orange wire is the one burned there is probably a short in the alternator. it is a green wire with an orange tracer the is fried; i dont remember the color of the other wire. it is spliced together with other 4 or 5 other wires that are also green w/orange and it appears that each of those routes to a fuel injector.... yes when the automatic shutdown relay closes it powers the alternator field and the injectors but if the wire is fried all the way to the alternator id suspect the short is there. .
From : m warren
on 01 jan 2005 092519 gmt max340@aol.compost max340 wrote i dont think maz realized that we were talking about voltage drop across the wiring. i realize exactly what you were saying and i got battery voltage. sorry to disappoint you folks but i do know what i saw and how to operate a vm properly. he just looked at the empty socket found about 12 volts there and concluded that no volts dropped on the ground or something. hardly. i find it fascinating that anyone would believe that an automotive electrical system would show anything but battery voltage no matter what load was placed on it. check the voltage on the lighting circuit youll find the same voltage at the battery given the same load. you do realize that both the battery and the load are in the circuit and thus will read the same voltage right so it doesnt matter if the circuit has amp robbing stuff in it or not the voltage at the battery damn well better be the same as that in the circuit. but to say that a modern charging system with a voltage regualtor remember that cannot compensate enough to keep a nominal charge voltage of 13.5-14.5v from dipping below 12v in any circuit when the headlights are operating is reaching a bit. id be further fascinated to know what you think the voltage drop is in an ignition circuit or any of the circuits in the pcm network since you think the headlights drop the voltage so much. the voltage drop you are supposing ought to cause havok in the sensing circuits since they are monitored by the millivolt in some cases. hell with new batteries the grid heater in my 00 only drops the voltmeter on the dash from 15v to 13vengine running. ill bet it draws more than the headlights and it still cant pull enough amps to drop voltage below 12v and yet the headlamps dim. wow maybe its the amperage draw that is the cause which as i mentioned before is the reason why mr. stern supplies a heavier guage wire not the volts. or is my voltmeter incorrectly installed from the factory max max does not matter how long and how often you argue the facts - you are wrong. you understand ohms law you know how to calculate effective resistance voltage and current in series circuits to refresh your memory ohms law is represented as e=ixr and means that current voltage and resistance are directly related to each other and that if a given voltage is applied accross a given resistance a given current will flow. increase the resistance and the current drops. increase the voltage and the current drops. increase the voltage and the current drops. what hahahaha you can only increase or decrease voltage or resistance directly - and the current responds accordingly. actually current responds directly to voltage and inversely to resistance if youre going to lecture on this stuff take the time to get it right ok in a series circuit the total resistance of the circuit is equal to the sum of all resistances in the circuit. you have a nominal 12 volt system. your headlights are 60 watt high beam units and there are 2 of them in parallel for a total of 120 watts. watts are volts times amps so the 120 watts of 12 volt lamp draw 10 amps. now this means the effective resistance of the lamp bulbs is e/i or 12/10 or 1.2 ohms and since they are in parallel that means each lamp is 2.4 ohms. 2.4 ohms at 12 volts is 12/2.4= 5 amps if you had a real nasty wiring system with 2.4 ohms of resistance to each bulb the wiring and the bulb would share the voltage equally. the bulb would get 6 volts and the total current draw would be 2.5 amps per bulb or 5 amps total. this is very unlikely but if the system has .24 ohms resistance the total circuit resistance per bulb would now be 2.64 ohms. 12 volts on 2.64 ohms yeilds 12/2.64= 4.54 amps. apply ohms law and the bulb sees ixr=4.54x2.4=10.896 volts. the resistance sees ixr = 4.45x.24=1.0896 volts. add them up and you have battery voltage 10.896+1.0896=11.9856of 12 volts. awg 18 wire is 6.4 ohms per 1000 feet or .064 ohms per 10 feet. the .24 ohm resistance may be comprized of 0.04 ohms normal wire resistance which is a voltage drop of roughly .003 to the switch and 0.08 ohms from the switch to the headlights which is roughly .006 volts drop. this amounts to .01 volt - which is acceptable. then add one connection and another .04 ohms and another .003 volt drop. three more pretty good connections adds another .12 ohms and another 0.012 volts of drop. now you have .024 volts of drop without any corrosion or problems. corrode a couple connections and burn the contacts a bit on a switch designed by accountants and you soon have your .24 ohms of resistance and your 1 volt voltage drop which is ten times what is allowed as acceptable. remember the voltage drop on the switch goes up at doble the rate of any individual wire as it sees the total current draw of 10 ams instead o
From : m warren
i would guess that there are some miles left in it. i have one of those now but it only has half that on it. i would hope that it has another one hundred k in it. i drove another of those engines up to 90 k before my daughter totaled it but it was still running nicely. we have a 3.3 in a chrysler that has 183 k which is still running very nicely with no major issues -- no oil consumption etc. maintenance is important but the biggest factor is type of usage -- if the previous owner didnt abuse the vehicle -- short trips -- getting it stuck -- etc. probably the bigger trouble spot is the transmission. good luck. phil please forgive if this is wrong group. im looking at buying a 1997 plymouth grand voyager with a 3.0 liter v6. it has about 100000 miles on it. is this too much for this dodge engine any experience on how long on average they last also any mpg info would be appreciated. thanks don .
From : john kunkel
jeff mayner wrote i found it a little weird that dodge would without consulting me first pour this product into my gas tank at the aforementioned 30k service. the only reason i know about it is that there was a little yellow card included with my receipt telling me so after the fact. the card indicates i am to see increased performance and gas mileage after about 400 miles driven. personally i never buy and use additives mystery oil etc. does anyone have any experience using this product its made by bg. is it a fe cleaner of some sort thanks for any input. jeff ok. did a little research and found out exactly what this stuff is. well see what the effect is i guess. http//www.bgprod.com/bgprofessional/bgproducts/autofuel.html jeff .
From : maxpower
i 95 3500 van 318 stopped blowing fuses and starting melting wires yesterday. so i followed the melting toi a little rubber box that mounts with three terminals to the top of the alternator... have no idea what it is. two little wires that are the right color to be fuel injection related green with orange i think that connect to two small terminals on the aternator and one large ground wire that attaches to the alternator frame and then to the engine block. the black box is a molded wire terminal for the field wires there is another lower down for the main power wire. one of the field wires orange is keyed battery voltage and the other green is a variable ground controlled by the pcm. the orange wire gets its power from a fuse #4 in the power distribution center if the orange wire is the one burned there is probably a short in the alternator. .