What is a good brand of Engine Flush?
From : Annonymous
Q: on fri 13 jan 2006 023904 gmt alex someone@microsoft.com wrote none. you probably dont want to do this is the engine runs. subject line sez all. what is the recommended brand of engine flush thats readily available for a sluggish v8 at 90k miles there are many who will disagree with you depending on the circumstances. ive used coal oildeisel fuel atf shaler rislone bardahl #1 casite engine flush and a host of other commercial engine flushes over the last almost 40 years. only lost one engine to it and it was beyond help before the flush. if i had dropped the pan right away a set of bearings and an oil pickup screen would have salvaged it but hindsight has 20-20 vision.1965 225 slant six with a split oil pickup screen due to some hamfist working on it previously its not so much what you use as how you use it and what you are attempting to accomplish. it is a whole lot easier to for instance adjust the valves on a flathead dodge or continental when you can actually see the tappets.or when you have an engine that has sat for 6-10 years and although it ran fine when parked it smokes badly when restarted due to stuck oil control rings due to sludging. in the case of a heavily sludged engine you need to be gentle and take your time. on a relatively clean engine like the one with stuck rings you can afford to be more agressive. .
Replies:
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From : budd cochran mrd150 preciscom spam net
i had an 88 dodge ram d150 with the v6 basically a 318ci with 2 cylinders lopped off. it ran great but the body was rough so i sold it for $100 more than i paid for it and bought a cream puff 87 ram d150 with a slant 6. this second truck had 80k miles and was garaged since new no rust very very clean and nice. the slant 6 was fine for the hauling and towing i had to do but that v6 sure was smoother. well i guess its a moot point since you cant even get an inline engine in a dodge full size truck anymore. now for the flames!!!!! educate him ctd owners... .
From : joe brophy
steve lusardi stevenospam@lusardi.de wrote in budd you didnt understand my reply. i didnt say they vibrated. i said they were a poor weak excuse for a motor design. you can balance anything even a v6. do they have only 4 main bearings yes. do they compromise the cross sectional area of the crank journal with rod journal offset yes. do they suffer from exceptional unnecessary tortional crank stress yes. does a v8 have the same faults no. are they as reliable as a v8 certainly not! once the new car warrantee expires who own this extra risk the consumer! its your dime make your choice. do your own survey compare head gasket failures. in a shop that i frequent i have observed a more than 2 to 1 for the v6 over v8s and the customer base is 4 v8s for every v6. steve i had an 88 dodge ram d150 with the v6 basically a 318ci with 2 cylinders lopped off. it ran great but the body was rough so i sold it for $100 more than i paid for it and bought a cream puff 87 ram d150 with a slant 6. this second truck had 80k miles and was garaged since new no rust very very clean and nice. the slant 6 was fine for the hauling and towing i had to do but that v6 sure was smoother. well i guess its a moot point since you cant even get an inline engine in a dodge full size truck anymore. ----== posted via feeds.com - unlimited-unrestricted-secure usenet ==---- http//www.feeds.com the #1 group service in the world! 120000+ groups ----= east and west-coast server farms - total privacy via encryption =---- .
From : clare at snyder on ca
on fri 13 jan 2006 011512 gmt ramman@dodgecity.cc wrote subject line sez all. what is the recommended brand of engine flush thats readily available for a sluggish v8 at 90k miles there are two brands i hear about more than any of the others the better of the two imho anyway is called restore comes in a cylinder shaped can about the size of a large can of tennis balls. the other brand i hear about good results from a lot of people who swear by it is called rislone. in addition i have used amsoils engine flush prior to every oil change in my 1999 durango slt 5.9l. i slowly have become a big supporter of synthetics in general but i dont exclusively se amsoils products. i have used mobil 1 seemingly forever and the engines i have maintained that used it in the crankcase have usually gone well over 200k or more with no major breakdowns or increased oil consumption. i usually complement mobil 1 with an oil additive called tufoil made by fluororamics on the east coast use amsoils transmission fluid over daimler chryslers atf-4. i do periodically use amsoils oil anaolysis services as part of a hopefully thought out effective maintenance strategy that prolongs the useful life of my vehicles and helps to reduce the probability of a roadside failure. engine and automatic transmission flushing about every 3-5 maintenance intervals is part of the big picture as well. good luck. joe. .
From : clare at snyder on ca
the best way to remove engine sludge is to prevent it. adjust oil change intervals according to operation parameters. lots of highway miles for example are better than short trips that dont warm the engine up. if the engine sits a lot change the oil every few months or for synthetics check with the oil manufacturer. always change the filter with the oil. budd on fri 13 jan 2006 023904 gmt alex someone@microsoft.com wrote none. you probably dont want to do this is the engine runs. subject line sez all. what is the recommended brand of engine flush thats readily available for a sluggish v8 at 90k miles there are many who will disagree with you depending on the circumstances. ive used coal oildeisel fuel atf shaler rislone bardahl #1 casite engine flush and a host of other commercial engine flushes over the last almost 40 years. only lost one engine to it and it was beyond help before the flush. if i had dropped the pan right away a set of bearings and an oil pickup screen would have salvaged it but hindsight has 20-20 vision.1965 225 slant six with a split oil pickup screen due to some hamfist working on it previously its not so much what you use as how you use it and what you are attempting to accomplish. it is a whole lot easier to for instance adjust the valves on a flathead dodge or continental when you can actually see the tappets.or when you have an engine that has sat for 6-10 years and although it ran fine when parked it smokes badly when restarted due to stuck oil control rings due to sludging. in the case of a heavily sludged engine you need to be gentle and take your time. on a relatively clean engine like the one with stuck rings you can afford to be more agressive. .
From : alex
1. upper/lower ball joints both sides. 2. track bar is shot. ---- why the hydroplanning effect 3. tie rod end inner shit. 4. axle seal replace 5. wheel alignment. 6. wheel bearing hub --- why it feels like the towing trailer jerking effect. yep... thats just what i would have guessed would cause a clunk when accelerating in 4wd in 2nd gear only... gotta wonder........... roy .