What can I do to make towing easier with my truck?
From : howard page
Q: i have an 04 dodge ram 1500 4x4 short bed quad cab with automatic transmission5.7 hemi and 3.55 rear end. it has a cold air intake and a transmission temp gauge added onto it. i am using e class tires with 33 bfg all terrain t/a tires. i have a prodigy brake controller and load leveling and sway control on the hitch. i am towing a rockwood 8314ss camper 2007. i have noticed that while i can tow it and stop it safely the temp gauge runs around 195 f degrees. i towed it for the first time about 2 weeks ago. it weights around 6000 lbs. i have heard that i can change gears or something to increase the towing and make it easier on the transmission and engine. i dont want to cook the transmission although i dont know what the danger level is in degrees. i do check my fluids before every tow both coming and going on trips. a new truck is out of the question right now. and i dont want to spend a fortune on something that will give little back. i have also heard that changing gears will also really screw up the gas mileage which is terrible anyways. okay now ill stand down and wait for the flogging to begin. .
Replies:
From : christopher d thompson
on tue 17 jun 2008 083625 -0400 howard page wrote i have the k&n cold air intake system. i am wondering what the thermostat has to do with it i changed my tires thinking that the bigger ones would have stronger sidewalls. i admit that i liked the michelin stock tires better and the ride was smoother. does one need to have e rated tires for heavier towing or are the stock ones sufficient the stock tires are matched to the trucks load rating. increasing the load rating of the tires does not increase the trucks rawr. rear axle weight rating and thus doesnt do much to help you. although e rated tires will be more stable when your pushing the upper limits of c rated tires ratings. but there again your pushing the limits of what the truck is designed to do in that case if not already exceeding the design limits. thanks for your reply. i do agree that the cat back gibson dual exhaust system is probably a waste of money. sounds good but there are days i wish i didnt have so much noise. i guess that stock isnt always bad. -- chris .
From : bob
rm v2.0 wrote -- i used a k&n cai kit. but i think its not particularly better than any of the others. i bought that one in 2002 because i got a good deal on it. and yes it did make a differance. i also removed the rubber flap from the left side of the radiator. did that help i dont know but it didnt hurt. for the computer i used a hypertech programmer. that made a huge differance. i should have done that right off the bat. remarkable improvement in driveability and power. did i mention the viper rocker arms thats an excellent improvement for less than $100. also dont forget to check the belly pan on the intake manifold. if thats leaky it wont run nearly as well. does the hypertech come with set programming or do i have to figure it out how do i check the belly pan -- the hypertech and others like it come with a set program. by the time you open the box read the instruction reprogram your computer and put the programmer away youll have spent less than 30 minutes. piece of pie easy as cake. worth every penny. magnum engines with the beer keg intake manifold are pretty famous for leaking - 3.9 5.2 and 5.9. the bottom of the manifold casting is closed off by a stamped metal plate. under the plate is a gasket. over time that gasket leaks. its not much but it does leak. that causes poor performance. remove the air filter tubing from the top of the throttle body. open the throttle blades and look down in there with a flashlight. if the bottom of the manifold is covered with oil yours is leaking. to fix it you have to remove the intake manifold. not a technically difficult job but a pain in the neck. the only special tool you need is to remove the fuel line from the fuel rail - $8 at napa. the manifold bolts are single use only. also bought them from napa but cant remember the cost - about $40ish. but the whole job was less than 2 hours and less than $100. -------- ..bob 2006 fxdi hot rod 2008 mustang coupe 2001 dodge dakota qc 5.9/4x4/3.92 1965 ffr cobra - 427w efi damn fast. .
From : bob
rm v2.0 wrote .bob bobcowan035@comcast.net wrote in message rm v2.0 wrote a colder thermostat will pulll more heat out of the heads. that helps prevent detonation and you can use mid grade instead of premium. it also gives you a little more lee-way on hot days with long grades. but only do that if youve re-programmed the computer to accomadate it. otherwise you could make the engine run bad and cut your mileage by a bunch. -------- my 99 1500 already has a tube pulling air from the fender from the factory. isnt that taking in cold air -- thats a good start. but have you looked at the size of that tube on my dakota that tube was pretty small. switching to a cai with a funnel shaped filter has been shown to increas low end torque. the stock set up has to meet federal noise standards and that makes the whole set up restrictive. i already installed a 180 thermostat what chip and cai should i go to i am in houston weather if that makes a difference. 5.9l gas with auto. -- i used a k&n cai kit. but i think its not particularly better than any of the others. i bought that one in 2002 because i got a good deal on it. and yes it did make a differance. i also removed the rubber flap from the left side of the radiator. did that help i dont know but it didnt hurt. for the computer i used a hypertech programmer. that made a huge differance. i should have done that right off the bat. remarkable improvement in driveability and power. did i mention the viper rocker arms thats an excellent improvement for less than $100. also dont forget to check the belly pan on the intake manifold. if thats leaky it wont run nearly as well. -------- ..bob 2006 fxdi hot rod 2008 mustang coupe 2001 dodge dakota qc 5.9/4x4/3.92 1965 ffr cobra - 427w efi damn fast. .
From : rm v2 0
thanks. also dont forget to check the belly pan on the intake manifold. if thats leaky it wont run nearly as well. does the hypertech come with set programming or do i have to figure it out how do i check the belly pan -- the hypertech and others like it come with a set program. by the time you open the box read the instruction reprogram your computer and put the programmer away youll have spent less than 30 minutes. piece of pie easy as cake. worth every penny. magnum engines with the beer keg intake manifold are pretty famous for leaking - 3.9 5.2 and 5.9. the bottom of the manifold casting is closed off by a stamped metal plate. under the plate is a gasket. over time that gasket leaks. its not much but it does leak. that causes poor performance. remove the air filter tubing from the top of the throttle body. open the throttle blades and look down in there with a flashlight. if the bottom of the manifold is covered with oil yours is leaking. to fix it you have to remove the intake manifold. not a technically difficult job but a pain in the neck. the only special tool you need is to remove the fuel line from the fuel rail - $8 at napa. the manifold bolts are single use only. also bought them from napa but cant remember the cost - about $40ish. but the whole job was less than 2 hours and less than $100. -------- .bob 2006 fxdi hot rod 2008 mustang coupe 2001 dodge dakota qc 5.9/4x4/3.92 1965 ffr cobra - 427w efi damn fast. .
From : steve lusardi
well under 10%. even if you pay the ceos zero its not enough to effect that margin and make even a dent. besides most ceos do not make absurd salaries. only a handful in the country that make the headline . you feel you know otherwise. now ill use your argument against you. iirc you have about 150 people working for you and if that is true how much real impact would it be to raise the bottom one or two up 5k that would mean id also move the next 2 or 3 up and then the next 2 or 3 after that. moving the bottom will move everyone up as well. would not be able to compete but you cant comprehend that. its all so easy and so much money just laying around. i personally dont see that as excessive but if you are saying that your company doesnt make enough to pay your bottom wrung employees a living wage then you are taking the food out of their mouths to afford your lifestyle. so i should reduce my salary to pay those below me more great concept. you already said im not paid excessively. the people below make far above the average wage for their positions yet its not enough...to you. i guess the real question miles is how many people your employees you are willing to screw to maintain those margins if theyre screwed then theyd be unhappy and move elsewhere. they stay because they have opportunities that they cant get elsewhere. they can move up earn more and be successful through their own achievements and not oppressed through handouts. never said that everyone should make the same amount as you but all full timers should at least earn a living wage with the oppertunity to work there way up to the better things. but you refuse to tell me what minimum wage should be for at least your area. you also fail to state what would happen economically if the minimum wage were raised to say $20/hr. to you it must be that everyone who is wealthy got that way through corruption lies cheating or they inherited it. for the most part this is correct but you forgot greed and the lottery - and their is the basis of your beliefs. wealthy people are mostly corrupt evil greedy etc. you just cant believe that most are good honest hard working people you worked their way to success. mortages around here have traditionally been far cheaper monthly payments than renting. back then a house was only 25k or so for a 2 bedroom 900sf home. then i guess that there were no rental units in your area because only a fool would rent when they could own for less. oh geez. sorry tbone even today one can buy a house cheaper than renting in many cities. people rent because they move often screwed up their credit its easier just walk in and move in the same day or any number of other reasons. i have done that myself miles so you are far from the only one in that boat. except it didnt lead you to running your own very successful business. ya i know you had some sorta puny business that is no longer around. its ok not everyone has such abilities. good thing there are those that believe in the american dream and work to achieve it and dont whine like yourself. i would say that your receptionist has to live that way now with no future due to the salary that you and those like you pay for those positions. i guess that its ok for you to take the food out of their mouth to go buy that new diesel for yourself after all 20+ years ago you took some risks. oh whaa!! i was in a similar position 30 years ago. i didnt whine that i was paid to little. i knew what i had to do and worked harder and harder. yep you want the bigger things in life then you take risks. there is no easy way...except in the liberal handout world. thats not what i said miles and you know that but please tell me how that equates to some ceo that was hired off of the street to work at an existing and established company that gets these same benefits. most ceos were not hired off the street. they worked their way up. most ceos are not paid massive amounts. just a select few you read about in the headlines. for the most part that is correct. lol only way to be successful is to lie cheat and steal your way. there goes the american dream. the liberal left has stomped on it. good thing theres plenty of people who believe the way to success is through their own hard work and not handouts. as they say its not what you know its who you know and its not really how hard you work but how hard you look like you are working. bull. its not who you know at all. its what youve accomplished along the way. dont believe that then do tell me all of the good ol boys club connections between the ceos of this country. whats the connection between chryslers new bods and the new ceo for instance . 222 344651 g2v0td$ev4$03$1@.t-online.com howard i have a 96 1500 with a 5.9 3.55 and an 04 3500 dually with the cummins 4.10. junk the 33 rubber. the
From : rm v2 0
-- i used a k&n cai kit. but i think its not particularly better than any of the others. i bought that one in 2002 because i got a good deal on it. and yes it did make a differance. i also removed the rubber flap from the left side of the radiator. did that help i dont know but it didnt hurt. for the computer i used a hypertech programmer. that made a huge differance. i should have done that right off the bat. remarkable improvement in driveability and power. did i mention the viper rocker arms thats an excellent improvement for less than $100. also dont forget to check the belly pan on the intake manifold. if thats leaky it wont run nearly as well. does the hypertech come with set programming or do i have to figure it out how do i check the belly pan .
From : rm v2 0
rm v2.0 wrote a colder thermostat will pulll more heat out of the heads. that helps prevent detonation and you can use mid grade instead of premium. it also gives you a little more lee-way on hot days with long grades. but only do that if youve re-programmed the computer to accomadate it. otherwise you could make the engine run bad and cut your mileage by a bunch. -------- my 99 1500 already has a tube pulling air from the fender from the factory. isnt that taking in cold air -- thats a good start. but have you looked at the size of that tube on my dakota that tube was pretty small. switching to a cai with a funnel shaped filter has been shown to increas low end torque. the stock set up has to meet federal noise standards and that makes the whole set up restrictive. i already installed a 180 thermostat what chip and cai should i go to i am in houston weather if that makes a difference. 5.9l gas with auto. .
From : bob
rm v2.0 wrote a colder thermostat will pulll more heat out of the heads. that helps prevent detonation and you can use mid grade instead of premium. it also gives you a little more lee-way on hot days with long grades. but only do that if youve re-programmed the computer to accomadate it. otherwise you could make the engine run bad and cut your mileage by a bunch. -------- my 99 1500 already has a tube pulling air from the fender from the factory. isnt that taking in cold air -- thats a good start. but have you looked at the size of that tube on my dakota that tube was pretty small. switching to a cai with a funnel shaped filter has been shown to increas low end torque. the stock set up has to meet federal noise standards and that makes the whole set up restrictive. -------- ..bob 2006 fxdi hot rod 2008 mustang coupe 2001 dodge dakota qc 5.9/4x4/3.92 1965 ffr cobra - 427w efi damn fast. .
From : rm v2 0
a colder thermostat will pulll more heat out of the heads. that helps prevent detonation and you can use mid grade instead of premium. it also gives you a little more lee-way on hot days with long grades. but only do that if youve re-programmed the computer to accomadate it. otherwise you could make the engine run bad and cut your mileage by a bunch. -------- my 99 1500 already has a tube pulling air from the fender from the factory. isnt that taking in cold air .
From : bob
.bob bobcowan035@comcast.net 1. reprogram the computer with something like hypertech. it will run better and shift better. 2. change the thermostat to 180*. only do this if youve reprogrammed the computer to accept it. otherwise it will probably run bad and get terrible gas mileage. 3. a cold air intake system. not a drop in k&n flat filter but something that will actually feed cold air to the engine. 4. cat back exhausts headers true duales etc are useless. youll spend big bux and feel no differance on the butt-o-meter or the gas pump. 5. smaller lighter skinnier tires. 6. drive slower. nothing wrong with 60-65mph. howard page wrote i have the k&n cold air intake system. i am wondering what the thermostat has to do with it the two are not directly related. the cold air system is one of the few easy changes that has been shown to increase low end torque. its relativly inexpensive and pretty simple to install. a colder thermostat will pulll more heat out of the heads. that helps prevent detonation and you can use mid grade instead of premium. it also gives you a little more lee-way on hot days with long grades. but only do that if youve re-programmed the computer to accomadate it. otherwise you could make the engine run bad and cut your mileage by a bunch. -------- ..bob 2006 fxdi hot rod 2008 mustang coupe 2001 dodge dakota qc 5.9/4x4/3.92 1965 ffr cobra - 427w efi damn fast. .
From : howard page
i have the k&n cold air intake system. i am wondering what the thermostat has to do with it i changed my tires thinking that the bigger ones would have stronger sidewalls. i admit that i liked the michelin stock tires better and the ride was smoother. does one need to have e rated tires for heavier towing or are the stock ones sufficient thanks for your reply. i do agree that the cat back gibson dual exhaust system is probably a waste of money. sounds good but there are days i wish i didnt have so much noise. i guess that stock isnt always bad. howard howard page wrote i have an 04 dodge ram 1500 4x4 short bed quad cab with automatic transmission5.7 hemi and 3.55 rear end. it has a cold air intake and a transmission temp gauge added onto it. i am using e class tires with 33 bfg all terrain t/a tires. i have a prodigy brake controller and load leveling and sway control on the hitch. i am towing a rockwood 8314ss camper 2007. i have noticed that while i can tow it and stop it safely the temp gauge runs around 195 f degrees. i towed it for the first time about 2 weeks ago. it weights around 6000 lbs. i have heard that i can change gears or something to increase the towing and make it easier on the transmission and engine. i dont want to cook the transmission although i dont know what the danger level is in degrees. i do check my fluids before every tow both coming and going on trips. a new truck is out of the question right now. and i dont want to spend a fortune on something that will give little back. i have also heard that changing gears will also really screw up the gas mileage which is terrible anyways. okay now ill stand down and wait for the flogging to begin. -- well there are a number of things you can do to make improvements. but heres the bottom line. the gas engine is pretty good. but it will never be a torque monster and it will suck gas like theres a hole in the tank. accept it now and learn to live with it. a bunch of folks will jump in and say go out and buy a diesel cummins. yes thats a great idea. if you happen to have a suitcase full of money lying around with nothing to do. if you dont have that heres a few things you can do 1. reprogram the computer with something like hypertech. it will run better and shift better. 2. change the thermostat to 180*. only do this if youve reprogrammed the computer to accept it. otherwise it will probably run bad and get terrible gas mileage. 3. a cold air intake system. not a drop in k&n flat filter but something that will actually feed cold air to the engine. 4. cat back exhausts headers true duales etc are useless. youll spend big bux and feel no differance on the butt-o-meter or the gas pump. 5. smaller lighter skinnier tires. 6. drive slower. nothing wrong with 60-65mph. -------- .bob 2006 fxdi hot rod 2008 mustang coupe 2001 dodge dakota qc 5.9/4x4/3.92 1965 ffr cobra - 427w efi damn fast. .
From : bob
howard page wrote i have an 04 dodge ram 1500 4x4 short bed quad cab with automatic transmission5.7 hemi and 3.55 rear end. it has a cold air intake and a transmission temp gauge added onto it. i am using e class tires with 33 bfg all terrain t/a tires. i have a prodigy brake controller and load leveling and sway control on the hitch. i am towing a rockwood 8314ss camper 2007. i have noticed that while i can tow it and stop it safely the temp gauge runs around 195 f degrees. i towed it for the first time about 2 weeks ago. it weights around 6000 lbs. i have heard that i can change gears or something to increase the towing and make it easier on the transmission and engine. i dont want to cook the transmission although i dont know what the danger level is in degrees. i do check my fluids before every tow both coming and going on trips. a new truck is out of the question right now. and i dont want to spend a fortune on something that will give little back. i have also heard that changing gears will also really screw up the gas mileage which is terrible anyways. okay now ill stand down and wait for the flogging to begin. -- well there are a number of things you can do to make improvements. but heres the bottom line. the gas engine is pretty good. but it will never be a torque monster and it will suck gas like theres a hole in the tank. accept it now and learn to live with it. a bunch of folks will jump in and say go out and buy a diesel cummins. yes thats a great idea. if you happen to have a suitcase full of money lying around with nothing to do. if you dont have that heres a few things you can do 1. reprogram the computer with something like hypertech. it will run better and shift better. 2. change the thermostat to 180*. only do this if youve reprogrammed the computer to accept it. otherwise it will probably run bad and get terrible gas mileage. 3. a cold air intake system. not a drop in k&n flat filter but something that will actually feed cold air to the engine. 4. cat back exhausts headers true duales etc are useless. youll spend big bux and feel no differance on the butt-o-meter or the gas pump. 5. smaller lighter skinnier tires. 6. drive slower. nothing wrong with 60-65mph. -------- ..bob 2006 fxdi hot rod 2008 mustang coupe 2001 dodge dakota qc 5.9/4x4/3.92 1965 ffr cobra - 427w efi damn fast. .
From : rm v2 0
i have an 04 dodge ram 1500 4x4 short bed quad cab with automatic transmission5.7 hemi and 3.55 rear end. it has a cold air intake and a transmission temp gauge added onto it. i am using e class tires with 33 bfg all terrain t/a tires. i have a prodigy brake controller and load leveling and sway control on the hitch. i am towing a rockwood 8314ss camper 2007. i have noticed that while i can tow it and stop it safely the temp gauge runs around 195 f degrees. i towed it for the first time about 2 weeks ago. it weights around 6000 lbs. if you upped the tire size then you need lower gears. since you will be in there may as well go lower than the equivalent stock gears. mileage will take a dump though. i am running 38 on my 1500 4x4 but i have replaced the axles with 1 ton units off a diesel with 4.10 gears. cant pull crap though. .
From : miles
howard page wrote i have an 04 dodge ram 1500 4x4 short bed quad cab with automatic transmission5.7 hemi and 3.55 rear end. it has a cold air intake and a transmission temp gauge added onto it. i am using e class tires with 33 bfg all terrain t/a tires. i have a prodigy brake controller and load leveling and sway control on the hitch. i am towing a rockwood 8314ss camper 2007. i have noticed that while i can tow it and stop it safely the temp gauge runs around 195 f degrees. i towed it for the first time about 2 weeks ago. it weights around 6000 lbs. i have heard that i can change gears or something to increase the towing and make it easier on the transmission and engine. i dont want to cook the transmission although i dont know what the danger level is in degrees. i do check my fluids before every tow both coming and going on trips. a new truck is out of the question right now. and i dont want to spend a fortune on something that will give little back. i have also heard that changing gears will also really screw up the gas mileage which is terrible anyways. okay now ill stand down and wait for the flogging to begin. 33 tires are probably hurting your performance and mpg considerably. drop to 30-31 which is stock size for your truck. i have a hemi durango 4x4 3.55 and pull about 5000 lbs in very mountainous terrain. it does have a factory tranny cooler as well as an auxiliary engine cooler that works great. .