Weird issue with '95 RAM 2500
From : japhar81
Q: that was my thinking as well based on the fact that letting it sit and cool off gets it going again but what about the screwy starting issue same thing if so whats the reasoning i mean for the stall/start letting the motor cool off gives it a bit more life but the cold start the motor is already cold on 2005-01-26 101623 -0500 tbone t-bonenospam@nc.rr.com said it sounds like your fuel pump is on the way out. .
Replies:
From : Annonymous
larry moe n curly wrote daniel j. stern wrote on wed 26 jan 2005 william. boyd wrote i use liquid wrench wd is good but the lw is a tad better. both of them are silly kid stuff. kroil and mopar 3418039 are the only two penetrating fluids worth messing with. how well does pb blaster compare you guys dont be so dead set that your experience of bygone times remain the king of the road. there are many new innovations that may set your long prided selection aside. every day something new comes out some good and some not so good. bill p - .
From : curt hibbert
like i said in the other post i sprayed wd40 last night and i let it sit overnight. with the extractor tool i was able to remove the stuck screw part of the plug! excellent! that could easily have turned ugly... glad it didnt but still from now on i will apply a penetrating oil a few hours before i start any spark plug job just to be sure. its also better to change plugs on a warm engine. however the best method to ensure the plugs come out is to change tham at the recommended intervals 30k or so. most plugs today already have an anti-sieze coating on the threads and when installing into iron heads nothing additional is necessary. however proper torque just like on any other component is required. if the plug has a crush washer on it the washer will appear tapered if you look at it closely the general rule of thumb is to tighten it 1/4 to 1/2 turn beyond finger tight. if the plug has a flat washer on it then its only 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn beyond finger tight. .
From : max
hmmm i dont see my original post to you on here. never saw that before. any way im not sure if it is the same there should be a put number on both of them if i would guess i would say they are the same....for some reason i dont ever remember there being a relay for that way for the blower motor. are you sure thats what you are hearing or am i just that damn old and cant remember thanks glenn we have an 87 with a rusted frame out back. would the resistor block be the same the click from under dash i am 99% sure was a relay click i worked on consumer electronics for 20yrs - hate auto elctric problems. there is a lot more stuff under the column on the 84 for some reason. thanks again john .
From : johnathon aaron steel
blower works intermittently - usually when it goes below zero and you need it most. it was only working on high. ive read about the resistor block but dont know where it is on this vehicle. could someone direct me also read about heat going from defrost to dash vent at different engine rpm. i figured this was a vacuum issue confirmed on other posts and though i know vents are vacuum controlled and blower motor is electric i tried goosing the gas to vary vacuum and blower came on high - coincedence im sure. well i tried changing to lower blower speed and got nothing. put blower back on high heard a click somewhere near steering column and had no more high.is there a blower relay in all the mess of wiring under there thats not shown in the haynes manual and exactly where would that be extremely cold out and my father needs heat. tia john .
From : tbone
on fri 21 jan 2005 080722 -0600 im right imright@urwrong.net wrote maybe some adult education classes would be more beneficial than trying to hook up break lights or turn lights to your dak and motor house. i have a motorhome and i want to pull it with my dakota but in the dak the break light and the turn light are the same and my mobile house has yellow lights for turning and red ones for break. from were should i take a cable to separate the turning and the breaking signal for your help thanks in advance. chris. you try communicating better in his country and then repost ok mac please remove splinters before emailing .
From : japhar81
its not going to be cheap. the pump is in the tank and will require either the tank being dropped or the bed lifted off to get to it. iirc the pump itself is around $150 plus labor. their are others in here that can give you a much more accurate figure than i can on what it may cost to have it done. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving thats pretty much what happened when i tried it. guess its the fuel pump... any idea what a swap should cost me on 2005-01-26 122131 -0500 tbone t-bonenospam@nc.rr.com said all of the symptoms that you described point to the fuel pump. as for the starting issue the pump has a check valve to maintain pressure but they are not perfect even when new and pressure will leak down. as the pump gets older the leakage tends to increase and combined with an old pump that is worn out and cant deliver the volume and pressure that it once could you tend to wind up with insufficient pressure at initial start. the next time you start it cold turn the key to run but not start and let it sit for a few seconds. then turn the key off and back to run for a few more seconds and then back to off and then try to start it. when you turn the key to run it starts the fuel pump for a few seconds to build up pressure and repeating this a few times will give the pump more time to build pressure before you attempt to start it. if the engine then starts up like normal it will further confirm that the pump is about to fail and need to be replaced. .
From : tbone
make sure that there isnt any ice in the cowl jamming the wiper linkage. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving hi i have an 01 ram 1500 quad which twice now the wipers didnt work. when turned on there was light clicking noise then nothing. they werent frozen to the windshield but both times it was very cold. checked the fuse/ relay both good. anyone with a similar problem any help greatly appreciated thanks. mjp .
From : japhar81
thats pretty much what happened when i tried it. guess its the fuel pump... any idea what a swap should cost me on 2005-01-26 122131 -0500 tbone t-bonenospam@nc.rr.com said all of the symptoms that you described point to the fuel pump. as for the starting issue the pump has a check valve to maintain pressure but they are not perfect even when new and pressure will leak down. as the pump gets older the leakage tends to increase and combined with an old pump that is worn out and cant deliver the volume and pressure that it once could you tend to wind up with insufficient pressure at initial start. the next time you start it cold turn the key to run but not start and let it sit for a few seconds. then turn the key off and back to run for a few more seconds and then back to off and then try to start it. when you turn the key to run it starts the fuel pump for a few seconds to build up pressure and repeating this a few times will give the pump more time to build pressure before you attempt to start it. if the engine then starts up like normal it will further confirm that the pump is about to fail and need to be replaced. .
From : yew b
all of the symptoms that you described point to the fuel pump. as for the starting issue the pump has a check valve to maintain pressure but they are not perfect even when new and pressure will leak down. as the pump gets older the leakage tends to increase and combined with an old pump that is worn out and cant deliver the volume and pressure that it once could you tend to wind up with insufficient pressure at initial start. the next time you start it cold turn the key to run but not start and let it sit for a few seconds. then turn the key off and back to run for a few more seconds and then back to off and then try to start it. when you turn the key to run it starts the fuel pump for a few seconds to build up pressure and repeating this a few times will give the pump more time to build pressure before you attempt to start it. if the engine then starts up like normal it will further confirm that the pump is about to fail and need to be replaced. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving that was my thinking as well based on the fact that letting it sit and cool off gets it going again but what about the screwy starting issue same thing if so whats the reasoning i mean for the stall/start letting the motor cool off gives it a bit more life but the cold start the motor is already cold on 2005-01-26 101623 -0500 tbone t-bonenospam@nc.rr.com said it sounds like your fuel pump is on the way out. .
From : tbone
hi i have an 01 ram 1500 quad which twice now the wipers didnt work. when turned on there was light clicking noise then nothing. they werent frozen to the windshield but both times it was very cold. checked the fuse/ relay both good. anyone with a similar problem any help greatly appreciated thanks. mjp .
From : japhar81
weak pump takes a few seconds to build proper pressure. turn key to run wait 3or4 seconds then start. my 93 dakota i turn key on and here a click starts on first turn. if i just turn key and crank takes 4or5 turns i have no driving issues with it just other drivers on wed 26 jan 2005 102627 -0500 japhar81 japhar81@gmail.com wrote that was my thinking as well based on the fact that letting it sit and cool off gets it going again but what about the screwy starting issue same thing if so whats the reasoning i mean for the stall/start letting the motor cool off gives it a bit more life but the cold start the motor is already cold on 2005-01-26 101623 -0500 tbone t-bonenospam@nc.rr.com said it sounds like your fuel pump is on the way out. .