Update on 99 ram rear end noise..again
From : mac davis
Q: on tue 23 aug 2005 040213 gmt max dodge max340@verizon.net wrote lets forget all the little biy squabling and answer the ops question. the voltage must be checked across the battery posts - pos to neg. if the voltage is within spec under 14.6 with a fully charged battery and the battery still boils the battery is shot. checking from pos to engine or body ground will generally give a higher voltage if the ground is bad. if the wire from the alternator output has high resistance measuring from the alt output t0 ground will give a higher reading than across the battery. .
Replies:
From : mac davis
one guy posted here recently that the transmissons in caravans arent all that great and if you tow with one dont use overdrive which mine has. the problem with overdrive is that on hills the engine will be downshifting into 3rd then back to 4th. its doing this because youre using too much throttle in its estimation to maintain your speed in 4th. this hunting back and forth is whats bad for the transmission. i-95 is pretty flat so i wouldnt worry about pulling with overdrive on especially with only 1000lbs. ever have the van full of people and cargo and run in overdrive same deal.... if you notice the transmission downshifting into 3rd then back to od then lock out od until youre back on flat ground. heaverier load from pulling the trailer the engine oil would get hotter than normal. no - but the constant shifting combined with the torque converter unlocking will raise the temperature of the transmission. thats why you want to lock out od if that starts happening. am i just being paranoid youre being prudent but theres a bit of paranoia starting to creep in. just hook it up drive it and be mindful of the transmission. youll be fine. .
From : mike simmons
max dodge wrote so sitting next to engine exhaust is what kind of heat i mean its only about 200f under the hood right how hot is the battery when the engine isnt even running storage temp is critical to a battery life. .
From : mike simmons
tbone wrote yea if the el-cheapo charger could maintain the voltage as a steady dc voltage you would be correct. the problem is that most cheep chargers do not have the current capability and the battery will pull their voltage down while charging. i would think that you of all people would know this. am i wrong yes youre wrong. a dead battery will pull more current than a charged one. the charge voltage will be about the same. .
From : tbone
unfortunately no not on a 99. you need to get an obd-ii scan tool to retrieve the codes. on that same note will a obd-ii scan tool tell you which sensor tripped the check engine light iow i have a 99 dak also and never had to change a sensor but i know im running on borrowed time at this point. if i have a sensor go bad how can i figure out the bad sensor will the code tell me im pretty sure i have 2 02 sensors. does the code get specific enough to tell me which one is causing the fault -- regards slick willy remove the bendover to reply .
From : mac davis
on wed 24 aug 2005 112925 -0500 daveinlakevilla@webtv.net dave in lake villa wrote dont care about noise factor...just want something hard and strong. thanks. cross-posted from the viagra group dave.. i tow a lot with our ram and have always used 8 ply.. is there a road condition that youre hitting that requires 10 mac please remove splinters before emailing .
From : mac davis
on 23 aug 2005 223601 -0700 enough already enoughalready@lycos.com wrote fredric l. rice wrote fuel rule change for big s.u.v.s seen as unlikely scott olson/getty imagesthe hummer h2 is among s.u.v.s that may be exempt from new rules. friends shouldnt let friends drive suvs mac please remove splinters before emailing .
From : fmb
that is because you are trying to hide from being wrong as usual. i am using relative terms because i dont know the specific values and neither do you. uhoh.... yer wrong there. i can go outside and get a specific amp draw reading on any one of my vehicles. do you even have an ammeter that will do that lol while you can measure the current draw from the starter in your vehicle actually i doubt that you really have the ability if you think that every starter pulls the same current you are even dumber than i thought and now you are reaching all new levels of ignorance. with that in mind no you do not have the specific values for his vehicle or even yours for that matter so once again you are wrong and full of shit as well. oh and btw i do have an inductive amp meter that can read current levels that high. i said no such thing and 14.2 volts has everything to do with how much current is flowing into the battery along with the batteries state of charge. um no. current is measured in amps not volts. so the voltage at which the system is operating doesnt tell a doggone thing about what the battery is taking in or putting out. hahahahahahaha you really are funny. while current may be measured in amps voltage is the force that causes current flow and current is simply how much is flowing. the higher the system voltage is above the battery voltage state of charge the more current is going to flow into it so as i said both the 14.2 and the batteries state of charge has everything to do with it. once again you demonstrate your complete ignorance of even simple dc circuits. thats why a check across the terminals is needed it eliminates the system and checks only the battery. thats also why you do a load test first because that draws a load on only the battery. hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha oh please stop you are killing me. can you really be this dumb first of all if you are talking about current you cannot measure that across the terminals of the battery lol. second unless you disconnect at least one of the terminals of the battery from the system to isolate it the system is still connected and will still influence your readings. third only an idiot would attempt to load test the battery with the engine running and again unless you disconnect the battery the system will still be there. btw if the engine is not running the battery is the only source of power and will be the only thing load tested regardless of where you connect the ground wire lol. the state of charge determins how much current will flow into the battery at a given voltage and if the battery is already weakened by an unintended prolonged current draw from something like an illuminated glove compartment light the added pull from the starter will make it worse wrong again. state of charge and age of the battery make a huge difference. really got proof on the battery age thing it is more the condition of the battery than its age and btw an old and / or abused battery builds resistance due to sulfation and takes less current and a lesser chance of boiling at a given voltage. how many times can you be wrong before you just give up as you seem to be demonstrating an infinite number of times lol. your theory about a glove box light and a starter is hogwash. you should be looking at the battery condition and age. lol the glove box light and starter both have a direct effect on the condition of the battery as in its state of charge so my theory as a possible cause of his problem is valid even by your idiotic standards. feel free to post again were betting on it. as long as you make it this easy to make you look foolish you can bet on it. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : mike simmons
a larger amp will do nothing to your speakers unless you turn up the volume to where the full output is sent to the speakers for an extended period of time. my experience is that a 45 amp when maxed out will be so distorted that the sound is awful anyway. that being said i would rather have a 60 watts amp played a volume pushing 30 watts than a 40 watt amp pushing the same. in a nut shell larger amp and smaller speakers capacity not size is preferable over the opposite. -jerry azwiley1 wrote no a 50 would not be enough to run all your speakers and a sub too even in a tri-way set up. you would have to have a second larger amp to run the sub or buy a 4 or 5 channel amp to run them all.. i would go with mtx over fosgate i personally have had a lot of problems with fosgate but never a one with my mtx.. the thunder bridged would run an 8 or 10 sub with no problem by itself. with a 2 channel running your speakers what you will run into is that you will loose either your fade or balance due to how you will have to wire the speakers. a 4 channel will prevent that.. a 5 channel will run the speakers and a sub. other brands bazooka alpine kicker and all good amps that will be on the lower cost side.. i dont want to lose either the balance or fader so im looking at 4 channel amps. ill add another for the sub later. is it better to have an amp rated higher than the speakers or the speakers rated higher than the amp i can get a 60wx4 40wx4 or 30wx4 amp all priced within $50 of each other. oddly the cheapest amp profile seems to have better performance specs than the other two kenwood. is profile any good i found 2-25 watt rms pioneer and 6-45 watt rms kicker speakers for about the same price that will fit my truck. would the best combination be the 45 watt speakers with the 40 watt amp maybe the 25 watt speakers with the 30 watt amp would the cheaper 60 watt amp be too much for either of those speakers thanks for all the help so far. these are the items im looking at crutchfield comparison pages amps http//tinyurl.com/8w6j9 speakers http//tinyurl.com/c9kcl .
From : tom lawrence
my noise occurs if i am turning the wheel or not after a certain amount like maybe halfway between straight ahead and having the wheel right left. ron in bc yes my noise sounds just like that. it does not seem to be constant just on and off. i was making a trun today real slow and i could feel a very slight vibration when the noise occured. if windows are closed i would never even hear it. .