Two big problems with my truck

From : Annonymous

Q: truck 1996 dodge ram 2500 4x4 bought used in 2003 i just changed the rotors and brakes to do so i had to remove the hubs. first let me tell you something i found when took the wheels off - the passenger side wheel had a spacer between the wheel and the hub/rotor assembly. both hubs are torqued to 150 pounds. now to the problems problem 1 on the drivers side i noticed that the rotor wobbles a little could this be because of the lack of a spacer or is there another problem bearing etc problem 2 on the drivers side only i smell grease could the rotor wobble be heating up this side causing the wheel bearing grease to heat up or something else thank you .

Replies:

From : midlant

should i be looking for this spacer on my 96 i am going to be changing my front brakes in the next week or two. didnt know i had to pull the hubs. john hubs. first let me tell you something i found when took the wheels off - the passenger side wheel had a spacer between the wheel and the hub/rotor assembly. both hubs are torqued to 150 pounds. that spacer was put on to address a brake pull condition. my 99 had it new - i suspect it was a tsb issued previously and was put on yours during some dealer service the previous owner had done. on the drivers side i noticed that the rotor wobbles a little could this be because of the lack of a spacer or is there another problem bearing etc no - nothing to do with the spacer as the spacer sits between the hub and the wheel. if the rotors not running true its either warped or not pressed on to the hub assembly properly. on the drivers side only i smell grease could the rotor wobble be heating up this side causing the wheel bearing grease to heat up or something else got an infrared thermometer shoot both hubs after driving a while and see if theres a temperature differential. .

From : tom lawrence

hubs. first let me tell you something i found when took the wheels off - the passenger side wheel had a spacer between the wheel and the hub/rotor assembly. both hubs are torqued to 150 pounds. that spacer was put on to address a brake pull condition. my 99 had it new - i suspect it was a tsb issued previously and was put on yours during some dealer service the previous owner had done. on the drivers side i noticed that the rotor wobbles a little could this be because of the lack of a spacer or is there another problem bearing etc no - nothing to do with the spacer as the spacer sits between the hub and the wheel. if the rotors not running true its either warped or not pressed on to the hub assembly properly. on the drivers side only i smell grease could the rotor wobble be heating up this side causing the wheel bearing grease to heat up or something else got an infrared thermometer shoot both hubs after driving a while and see if theres a temperature differential. .

From : midlant

thank you tom. youre a blessing. john thanks tom. i didnt think i had to take the all that off just to replace the pads. on my bikes and anything else i use a little emory cloth or whats lying around to scuff any glaze. its always worked for me. no squeaks or squeals. hose down with break cleaner and wha lah. yep - in that case just a 3/8 allen wrench to pull the two caliper slide bolts and off comes the caliper with the pads in it. dont forget to clean/re-grease the slide pins as well as a light coat of brake grease on the rails of the caliper mount where the caliper slides back and forth. if you have a dial indicator its worth a quick check of the rotors for run-out. i think the spec is stamped on the rotors. .

From : tom lawrence

should i be looking for this spacer on my 96 well - i never said it actually helped i took it off my 99 when i put different wheels/tires on and never noticed a problem. i think it was just another attempt to fix a somewhat problematic braking system. i am going to be changing my front brakes in the next week or two. didnt know i had to pull the hubs. if you want to get the rotors off yes you do. i dont subscribe to the theory of always turning the rotors. i check them with a micrometer and a dial indicator and if theyre within spec much harder to warp these larger/thicker rotors i just go over them with a brake disc on an air sander to break the glaze. .

From : tbone

should i be looking for this spacer on my 96 well - i never said it actually helped i took it off my 99 when i put different wheels/tires on and never noticed a problem. i think it was just another attempt to fix a somewhat problematic braking system. i am going to be changing my front brakes in the next week or two. didnt know i had to pull the hubs. if you want to get the rotors off yes you do. i dont subscribe to the theory of always turning the rotors. i check them with a micrometer and a dial indicator and if theyre within spec much harder to warp these larger/thicker rotors i just go over them with a brake disc on an air sander to break the glaze. where did you get a brake disk -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : tom lawrence

where did you get a brake disk most auto parts places. truth be told its not much more than a scotch brite pad - it just says its designed for brake rotors. heck some 120 grit sandpaper would probably do just as well. just dont go nuts with it... . if you see sparks well - youre going nuts with it .

From : midlant

thanks tom. i didnt think i had to take the all that off just to replace the pads. on my bikes and anything else i use a little emory cloth or whats lying around to scuff any glaze. its always worked for me. no squeaks or squeals. hose down with break cleaner and wha lah. thank you again. john .

From : tom lawrence

thanks tom. i didnt think i had to take the all that off just to replace the pads. on my bikes and anything else i use a little emory cloth or whats lying around to scuff any glaze. its always worked for me. no squeaks or squeals. hose down with break cleaner and wha lah. yep - in that case just a 3/8 allen wrench to pull the two caliper slide bolts and off comes the caliper with the pads in it. dont forget to clean/re-grease the slide pins as well as a light coat of brake grease on the rails of the caliper mount where the caliper slides back and forth. if you have a dial indicator its worth a quick check of the rotors for run-out. i think the spec is stamped on the rotors. .