Torque convertor lock up
From : tim aberegg
Q: okay - but if the sniff test is done at idle what about engines with big lopey cams that are most efficient at 4000-5000rpm or so and run super-rich at idle if left tuned for best top-end performance theyll surely fail the sniff test. thus - the owners lean the snot out of them get a pass sticker pull over two blocks from the center richen it back up and light em up for 2 city blocks first it depends on the sniff test those are performed in so many different ways its silly. second its undeniable that someone will cheat the emissions testing. if the concern is cleaner air then certainly a sniffer will tell more than a visual inspection. if the concern is getting a car to pass regardless by all means i like the visual withut a sniffer the less they know the better right the reality is that cars like you described in pa at least can be registered as classic or antique and be exempt from emissions. further there is a clause for low mileage that allows a car to be exempt from testing. but my point was/is no testing is foolproof so a sniffer would likely catch more stuff than a visual and would be a help to those with stock configurations. -- max give a man a match and he is warm for a short while. light him on fire and he is warm for the rest of his life. burning fuel efficiently means its burning correctly which also means its at optimum power output for the amount of fuel input. say thats sounds like a performance objective.....maybe the engine is tuned to pass a sniffer and its making its best power okay - but if the sniff test is done at idle what about engines with big lopey cams that are most efficient at 4000-5000rpm or so and run super-rich at idle if left tuned for best top-end performance theyll surely fail the sniff test. thus - the owners lean the snot out of them get a pass sticker pull over two blocks from the center richen it back up and light em up for 2 city blocks .
Replies:
From : tim aberegg
on wed 13 jul 2005 164608 -0500 twix go@away.now wrote on tue 12 jul 2005 094602 -0400 roy roy@home.net wrote on tue 12 jul 2005 082855 -0400 roy roy@home.net wrote on sun 10 jul 2005 134338 -0400 roy roy@home.net wrote on sun 10 jul 2005 095221 -0400 roy roy@home.net wrote says... hemidude03 @webtv.net says... agreed. worrying about mileage when you are driveing a truck i have never been able to follow. normally i would agree. before my my ram my 2000- dak suddenly dropped from 18 to 12 highway. when i inquired about it here i got falmmed because its a damn truck! what did you expect! i expect that something was wrong which there was. my ram is doing the same thing now 19 to 13 on the highway. i know less bout diesels this being my first one. im learning tho. i trimmed it so people wouldnt bitch you can get slammed any time for anything here. what was the solution to the daks problem regards the ram is that mt/towing what year what trans rears. roy okay i found the year03 but little else. is it constantly low at 13 or is it up and down are you using the overhead trip thingy or is that by the tankfull more info roy the trip computer matched the hand calculation within half a gal/mile consistantly. i check it at every fill-up. i thought it might be bad fuel around here at first but when i travel to denver for reserve duty i get the same milage from different gas stations. it stays around 13 on average. sometimes down to 12 sometimes up to 14. all highway driving. i wouldnt think the fuel filter would be clogged by 40k miles gotta tell ya 40k is a long time for a fuel filter change on a cummins imo. but dc supprises me sometimes. regular maintenance. found an afe high flow air filter when i thought to check that. swapped it for a new paper one. you might want to tighten all the hose clamps on you intake system. did you buy this truck new roy thanks roy. it had 30k when i bought it back in december. looked at the maint schedule this morning. calls for a change at 48k; passed that milage up last month. up to 53k now. has this mileage drop just happened was it gradual or has it been going on since you bought the truck if the latter get hold of the previous owner and talk to him ask what was done to the truck re modifications if 48k is too long how often would you recommend changing that bad-boy out i change mine at 15k at the most. to some that may be short but between shit fuel and lift pump issues i dont want to find myself on the side of the road in the middle of a snow storm. roy jay aka twix i pick up a filter last night. im going to try and get it installed tonight if i ever get out of work while theres daylight. g roy i put in the new fuel filter and milage rose to 15mpg for the first 3 tanks. two tanks later and im down to 11mpg. anything else you can think of to check before i take it to chet the mini-moron dodge tech i think it may be running a little rich. there is a heavy diesel odor in the air when idling. much more so than my fathers or my friends. .
From : tom lawrence
..bob wrote simply for the towing it has to be the dodge. the liberty is too small to tow a pontoon boat safely. i agree the liberty is too small to tow much. im not a big fan of the durango too big too heavy too expensive and to inefficient. what do you mean for towing and seating its tough to beat the new 2nd generation durango with the 5.7l. i paid $23k for a new 2004 4x4 hemi durango. the dakota isnt sold with the hemi and the 4.7l doesnt get much better mpg. we looked at quite a few suvs before buying the durango. we could not find any 4x4 that could seat 4-7 people comfortable and tow as well as the durango for less than the 23k we paid. so im not sure how the dakota can do better for less although it should tow a pontoon boat easily. have her look at a dakota; slightly better in those categories. although i have to admit i dont much like the styling of the new dakota. also consider the new mistubishi raider - a rebodied dakota. .
From : transurgeon
spec or adjustment. ive only put 60 miles on it. on a flat road it locks then unlocks back and forth whether you do 55 or 75. any suggestions while garys right that a scanner is the best way if you dont have access to one you can do something to determine whether the unlocking is being commanded by the pcm or if its a problem with the torque converter or valve body. install a temporary switch in the cab. connect one side to a ground somewhere. run the other side of the switch to the pcm and tap the orange/black wire coming from pin #54. dont cut the wire - use some type of temporary tap youll remove this and seal the tap with a little liquid electrical tape or rtv when youre finished. now with that done make sure the switch is in the off position and start the truck. get it up to highway speed where its locking and unlocking. throw the switch. if the converter locks and stays locked you have an electrical problem. if it still unlocks you have a transmission problem. remove the switch the temporary wiring and seal up the holes in the wire insulation as mentioned above. if its electrical two common problems are a bad throttle position sensor or a bad brake light switch. to check the tps back-probe the middle connector measuring 0-5vdc. an analog is actually preferable here becuase with the ignition on you want to slowly move the throttle pedal through its range while observing the meter. you should see a nice steady sweep in sync with the pedal. if its jittering or if you find a spot where it goes either open 0v or dead short 5v thats your tc problem and you need a new tps. on the brake light switch mounted in front of the brake pedal arm - give it a twist to remove it from the bracket. there are six pins with #1 being furthest from the plunger. pull the plunger all the way out. using an ohmmeter check for continuity on pins #1 and #2. at this point you should read no continuity. push the plunger in slowly and at some point you should get continuity. continue depressing the plunger all the way. once you first read continuity you should never lose it. if this behavior isnt observed your brake light switch is probably shot. to re-install either this switch or the new one pull the plunger all the way out then push it in 4 clicks. push the brake pedal down insert the switch into the bracket at an angle and rotate it into position. then release the brake pedal and pull up on it gently to set the final position of the plunger. .