Todays New Truck Project
From : moparman
Q: ill answer my own question the 8 1/4 uses the same tool as the 9 1/4 # c-4164 so it the same size 1 7/16. the carrier bearing preload was difficult to confirm on the manual on cd for the 2004 dakota but its in the noise diagnoises section not in the specs. its listed there as 75 ft# thanks again beekeep thats the info i was looking for thanks! anybody know if dakota 8 1/4 has 1 7/16 adjustors also i want to have tool ready before i tear it apart again ugh. i replaced all the bearings in my dakota axle 2 years ago now its making some noise again mostly on a right turn. i suspect the left carrier bearing any thoughts i didnt have a adjusting. spanner or other tool or torsion bar to adj. preload properly when i did it before. what year torsion bar will fit the adjusting nut through the axle tube its a 97 8 1/4 29 spline with posi. dick i made mine out of a piece of 1/2 all thread with a nut welded on one end and a hex head pipe bushing 3/8 x welded on the other. i dont recall the size of the bushing but it fit really nice in the adjuster. then you use you torque wrench on the nut end. beekeep i have a 9 1/4 rear on my truck so some of this may vary on yours. rod was 30 long pipe bushing was a 1 1/4 with 1 7/16 hex. i welded tits on the back of 3 of points of the hex so you dont push it all the way through the adjuster. this was a substitute for tool # c-4164. torque preload was 70 ft lbs on each adjuster and a backlash of 0.006 to 0.008. you will need an inch/ounce torque wrench for the pinion preload. hope this helps. beekeep .
Replies:
From : tbone
i assume this is the right thingy to hook up. yep thats it. good to know they include that regardless. since you connected your blue wire on the 7-pin connector youre all set. the prodigy will sense when the trailer is connected and show you a c as opposed to nc when its not connected. stepping on the brake should give you a numeric display corresponding to the amount of current being applied to the trailer brakes. as long as that functions properly then everythings good to go. and fyi - the prodigy will remain on after shutting the truck off. this is normal. it will power itself down after a period of inactivity so it wont kill the battery thanks for the info. its 330 in the morning and i woke up thinking i made a mistake....i think i did too. i spliced the blue wire into the dodge wiring harness since i cant seem to find the wire at a harness in the read of the truck im thinking i need to just cut the wire in the harness and just go with the blue wire i ran with the 7-pin kit....or will it really matter since the dodge wire should be back there rear of the truck someplace -- moparman---remove clothes to reply! --scud coordinates 32.61204 north 96.92993 west-- .
From : mike simmons
thanks mike that certainly helps. i was guessing it was related to whether the vehicle was braking on level ground or on a downhill slope. ie... more braking power applied to the trailer on a slope vs level terrain. david... .
From : moparman
my first choice would be to change the connector with a new one correctly using new pins and crimping the wires on with the correct connector crimping tool. my second choice if that is not feasable would be a harness change. i do not wish to start a flame war here but wires should never be soldered together ever. it creates a stress point that can lead to fatique fracture and possibly fire. of course to do this in a vibrating environment increases the risk even more. i know that many still do it and many have been successful or so they say but no vehicle air sea or land is constructed with soldered wire harnesses. in this case it is a new vehicle and i for one would not accept the risk or liability and i suspect neither will the dealer. steve steve i beg to differ soldered connections are safe and last forever if done properly. have you ever had a vehicle wiring harness apart havent you seen splices in the harness or as tom pointed out an integral diode mike first... shut up roy..i already know im ugly and the wife dresses me funny.. bg second lets say youre the proud owner of a 05 whatever with less than 1000 miles on it. you notice the left front parking light doesnt work and take it in to get fixed. lo and behold you are told its not just a bad bulb but the socket itself is defective and the only way to get it is to get a complete harness from the inst cluster thru the firewall and to the front lights. now the question is would you want even the most qualified tech to take most of your dash out and run a new harness everywhere under the hood or would you rather the dealer go to a boneyard and snip a connector off a donor vehicle and sodder/heatshrink it into place its only three wires and very easy to get to behind the headlamp assy. one hour vs at least a full day to replace the harness. no cost to you either way. what do you guys think denny .
From : mac davis
on sat 12 feb 2005 150320 -0600 mike simmons mikesim@yhti.net wrote im at a point where ill be needing a brake controller myself in the next 3-4 weeks. ive looked at both of these site and a question i havent found an answer to is whats the significance of a sef-leveling controller. what is it about trailers or controllers and leveling requirements that i need to be aware of ill be pulling a 14 dual axle utility trailer with aprox 4 tons in it. the vehicle is an 05 2500 quad cab 4x4 ram. thanks david... david some controllers have an internal pendulum which via inertia detects when the vehicle is slowing and activates a variable resistor which governs voltage output to the brakes. this pendulum must be mounted more or less perpendicular to the ground in order to function correctly. usually a controller will have markings on it which guide you as to how out of level it can be mounted. the prodigy which uses a solid state inertia sensor is not as sensitive to being off level and is thus self-leveling. hope this helps! mike attempt to translate that into english some brake controller units have to be set up level and adjusted and if you move or bump it your adjustment changes.. amount of braking and delay time.. he prodigy can be in on the floor bouncing around and stay in adjustment as there are no moving parts inside.. mac please remove splinters before emailing .
From : moparman
i know we did this a year or so ago but i wasnt paying attention. i demand a mulligan. i need to install a new one in my new 3500 dually. my new rv will be a 34 foot keystone mountaineer with two axels. although i plan on keeping the truck for 1 million miles i might want to pull something with more axels down the road. with that in mind im thinking about getting the tekumsha prodigy controller. last i saw it cost about 175.00 and will prolly install it myself since it doesnt have to be mounted in a level spot. pros-n-cons its the best electronic controller imho. ive got one and i think its great. the lowest price ive found is www.southwestwheel.com iirc about $125 incl shipping. mike yet again thanks yat thats about 50.00 cheaper than 4-wheel world here in dallas. -- moparman---remove clothes to reply! --scud coordinates 32.61204 north 96.92993 west-- .
From : moparman
tom another point which drives the more frequent change schedule is that diesels do not warm up quickly and consecquently do not boil off the condensation water so easily. this water will mix with the residual sulpher in the oil and create acid which corrodes the oil very rapidly. so in short there are two reasons to change the oil more frequently and they are both temperature related. short trips too cold and severe duty too hot. both cases reduces the lubriction performance of the oil. i have $50000 in my rig. i cant imagine risking that to save $30 on an oil change. steve where are you buying 12 quarts of oil and a filter for 30 bucks delo 400 15w-40 ci4+ $6.48/gallon at wally world plus fleetguard stratpore filter at genos garage $9.95 + shipping = $29.39. stay with the 7500 interval and you wont go wrong. mike thanks i plan on it. we dont have a genos garage in dallas/fort worth. we used to have a jenos strip tease place on harry hines until they finally closed up. -- moparman---remove clothes to reply! --scud coordinates 32.61204 north 96.92993 west-- .
From : moparman
1. install receiver hitch. 2. install 7 pin rv light kit to the truck. 3. install back-up light kit fits around the receiver hitch under the bumper and has two backup lights good for 80 feet. has a position switch to use off on and only work when in reverse.. 4. install freshly painted tool box. 5. install new wade bed caps. 6. remove scratch from rear dually fender. bastards!! you fergot #7... install heated leather seats! ;^ mike i didnt buy them this time i had them in my 2003 dodge ram 2500hd 5.7 magnum hemified truck. but....i didnt get em this time.. i wish i did now i have a fake left hip and it really makes a difference for those us without all our stock body parts. -- moparman---remove clothes to reply! --scud coordinates 32.61204 north 96.92993 west-- .
From : jerry
on sat 12 feb 2005 113136 -0500 roy roy@home.net wrote on sat 12 feb 2005 052936 -0500 roy roy@home.net wrote on fri 11 feb 2005 211519 -0500 roy roy@home.net wrote said the hell with it and went with a 05 2500 4x4 qc with the cummins. 610 foot pounds of torque should get it done. no i didnt get leather and heated seats. should pick it up early next week after the plow goes on and the remote starter is installed. thanks group for all your info comments and suggestions. roy been off at a training deal for the week just saw this. congratulations. youll love it. what color did you get thanks. should pick it up today if they get the plow on it.the color is a kinda charcoal. wanted something that would blend in and not stand out. roy that sounds like the color that i got. a metalic charcoal. i think they call it is called graphite metallic. nice subtle color and doesnt show the dirt badly. i have found however that it really shows the scratches so i have to watch that. anyway congrats again sounds like a very nice truck. for a paint that is prone to scratch you might try liquid glass. goes on easy and builds protection with each coat. roy is that a wax i will try it out. it is a wax/polish. but ya gotta get the old wax off first. i use prep sol then wash the truck with dawn. then clay the truck. now for the liquid glass. lightly apply a thin coat with a back and forth motion. let it dry to a haze and buff off. let it sit for 8 hours then put on another coat and buff off. no more waiting keep putting them on each coat goes on easier. ive seen a guy toss a lit cigarette on a white hood that had 10 coats and it didnt damage the paint. .
From : fmb
on fri 11 feb 2005 211519 -0500 roy roy@home.net wrote said the hell with it and went with a 05 2500 4x4 qc with the cummins. 610 foot pounds of torque should get it done. no i didnt get leather and heated seats. should pick it up early next week after the plow goes on and the remote starter is installed. thanks group for all your info comments and suggestions. roy been off at a training deal for the week just saw this. congratulations. youll love it. what color did you get thanks. should pick it up today if they get the plow on it.the color is a kinda charcoal. wanted something that would blend in and not stand out. roy congrats you are gonna love it even with the aftermarket bun warmers. when is the next load of white stuff going to be delivered so you can test your new combo -- fmb only one b in fmb .