Thermostat

From : joe

Q: this is a multi-part message in mime format. ------=nextpart000004101c35242.b6f90c80 content-type text/plain; charset=windows-1253 content-transfer-encoding quoted-printable i have a 98 durango 92k mi. ive had it for 2 1/2 years. when i bought = it in december i thought something was strange about the tranny. = figured it must be how 4x4/suv/trucks work. that spring the symptoms = seemed to almost disappear. oh yeah the symptoms=20 resists shifting from 2nd to 3rd during cold weather or the first shift = of the day during warmer weather. that following autumn the problems returned worse. i had to drive a = good mile down the road before the tranny would wake up and get to work. = but it would only happen on the first run of the day so by the end of = the day id forget about it till the next morning. after living with = this for a year i took it to the dealer moser dodge - cincinnati = ohio. as i described the problem to the technician he nodded with = familiarity and told me that durangos and dakotas do that and no = there were no recalls. one very cold day i took it to a local transmission specialist near = the dodge dealer and he told me that not only do the durangos and = dakotas have this problem but jeep grand cherokees too! he said he gets = a few in every time the weather gets cold. initially the trouble was more prevalent when the outside temperature = was in the 40s or colder. gradually that changed and now it doesnt = matter what the temperature is. when im accelerating i let off the gas = to let it shift to 3rd and then increase the throttle to continue. ive = gotten used to it.=20 a grain of truth dale a silo. i just bought a 98 dakota and when my neighbor saw ithe is also a = dodge owner he said i hope you have a spare couple of grand because you = are gonna have to replace that tranny. is there even a grain of truth to = his assertion that all dodge trucks have substandard transmissions i = looked the truck up on some kind of consumer reporting website before i = bought it and they said that it was a pretty much trouble free truck. please = tell me that my tranny isnt destined to fail! the only other dodge i have = ever owned is a 84 ram charger and i loved that truck with that big ole = 360 and extra large tires wish i still had it but the mileage sucked and = i travel a lot for work. any input from this group of dodge lovers will be greatly appreciated! dale simpson =20 ------=nextpart000004101c35242.b6f90c80 content-type text/html; charset=windows-1253 content-transfer-encoding quoted-printable !doctype html public -//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en htmlhead meta http-equiv=3dcontent-type content=3dtext/html; = charset=3dwindows-1253 meta content=3dmshtml 6.00.2800.1170 name=3dgenerator style/style /head body divfont face=3dbangle size=3d5i have a 98 durango 92k mi. ive had = it for 2=20 1/2 years. when i bought it in december i thought something was=20 strange about the tranny. figured it must be how 4x4/suv/trucks = work.=20 that spring the symptoms seemed to almost disappear. oh yeah the=20 symptoms /font/div divfont face=3dbangle size=3d5/font /div divfont face=3dcalisto mt size=3d6ustrongresists shifting from = 2nd to 3rd=20 during cold weather or the first shift of the day during warmer=20 weather./strong/u/font/div divfont face=3dbangle size=3d5/font /div divfont face=3dbangle size=3d5that following autumn the problems = returned=20 worse. i had to drive a good mile down the road before the tranny would = wake up=20 and get to work. but it would only happen on the first run of the day so = by the=20 end of the day id forget about it till the next morning. after living=20 with this for a year i took it to the dealer moser dodge - = cincinnati=20 ohio. as i described the problem to the technician he nodded with = familiarity=20 and told me that durangos and dakotas do that and no there were no=20 recalls./font/div divfont face=3dbangle size=3d5/font /div divfont face=3dbangle size=3d5one very cold day i took it to a = local=20 transmission specialist near the dodge dealer and he told me that not = only do=20 the durangos and dakotas have this problem but jeep grand cherokees too! = he said=20 he gets a few in every time the weather gets cold./font/div divfont face=3dbangle size=3d5/font /div divfont face=3dbangle size=3d5initially the trouble was more = prevalent when the=20 outside temperature was in the 40s or colder. gradually that changed = and now=20 it doesnt matter what the temperature is. when im accelerating i let = off the=20 gas to let it shift to 3rd and then increase the throttle to continue. = ive=20 gotten used to it. /font/div divfont face=3dbangle size=3d5/font /div divfont face=3dbangle size=3d5/font /div divfont face=3dbangle size=3d5a grain of truth dale/font/div divfont face=3db

Replies:

From : carl saiyed

hey all just got the 2500 quad hemi. any suggestions on what to throw on it for improved gas mileage and hp talk about a contradiction in terms. roy sorry either/or. jason. really then how did dc get both with the hemi over the 360 and 318 id wonder about weight and ride height. i doubt that it weighs any less and it may actually be taller then it was. either way it still has more hp and gets better mileage. there are two ways of increasing hp. if you make an engine more efficient then you get more hp for the same amount of fuel and that gives you better mileage by default. the other way is simply to ram more air and fuel into it and that is the either or method that you are referring to. the ram of more air doesnt really come into play until over 60mph unless it is a turbo or sc. imo the turbo or super charger are what i was referring to by ramming more air and fuel into the engine and it comes into play the second that you step on the gas. the problem with them is that they really dont make the engine any more efficient and when they come into play you lose mileage. roy -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : joe

-- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving thanks tom... lot of helpful info here. question concerning the o2 sensors. after removing the o2 sensors will it effect the engine performance or computer in any way if so how do i handle that problem do you still intend to drive this on the street i would suggest that you purchase a set of headers that are emmissions legal and put the o2 sensors back in as well as the converters. the computer expects them and is tuned to operate with them in place. you could possibly remove the o2 sensors and replace them with resistors to fake out the computer but what would be the point. second question any links on where to buy a good set of headers ceramic coated maybe. how about stainless steel to help prevent rusting ceramic coated headers dont rust either if it is done correctly. just about any performance catalog will have either type as well as direct replacement types that will bolt up to the stock exaust configuration. what do you recommend for the remaing exhaust system i would like to keep the spare tire hanging. thanks ahead of time ron any pros or cons for installing headers nothing than the usual header cons - hotter underhood temps more susceptible to gasket leaks could rust out over time.. the power gains are decent however. i say go for it. if youre going to keep the truck for more than a few years id look into having them ceramic coated. either way get a starter heat shield. the drivers side header pipe will pass very close to the starter. stuck starter solenoids suck. youll also want to get different ignition wires - get ones designed for higher temps. the ones i have use heavy silicone boots with a reflective coating on them. havent burned one up yet. how about any sensors on the exhaust system how do i handle them and will it effect the engine unplug the electrical connector then remove the o2 sensors. either use an o2 socket or a box-end or flare-type wrench. what other problems will i run into typical exhaust system problems - rusted bolts clamps... have a good penetrating oil handy as well as several different cutting tools cut-off wheel reciprocating saw etc.. if youre discarding the old system theres no reason to be neat about it. cut what you cant easily unbolt. the stock hangers can sometimes be a bitch - the metal rods with the barb on the end that fit through the rubber isolators... cut the rod at the 90 bend and remove the cut piece with the barb from the other side. its a whole lot easier. when installing new just coat the barb with some grease. the hardest part by far will be installing the headers - not a lot of room to work with around the rear cylinders but its doable done it twice now .