TDR

From : honey

Q: thanks roy for your input but i dont know who or what tdr is. can you enlighten me and tell me how to get ahold of them thanks. http//www.turbodieselregister.com .

Replies:

From : tom lawrence

i replaced both u-joints on the front end of my dodge. i followed the steps that i found on this back in sept. the results were great as far as getting the old hubs and spindles out. the problem is that when i put them back in i must have tore the seals in the pig assembly. can anyone tell me where the seals are located and how to get them out. .

From : max dodge

tools needed i have a press if the bearing needs pressed on/off does it do the axles slide out easily any pointers is appreciated. first step is to get ahold of the service manual - this isnt something you want to just wing it - too many torque specs. and critical measurements. youll need a set of torque wrenches both foot-pound and inch-pound and the inch-pound must be either a beam or dial type a dial indicator and base a bearing splitter to pull the old bearing off the pinion a big pipe wrench and a length of pipe to hold the yoke while torquing the pinion nut replacement for the factory pinion holding tool and a bearing adjuster tool to loosen tighten and torque the side adjusters either the real tool from a diff. shop an old torsion bar or some pipe and fittings from the plumbing section of your hardware store. if you have all that or can get it and are willing to give it a shot heres some things that will get you around some of the more difficult parts in the service manual first use the combination of the pipe wrench around the yoke with a pipe slid over the wrench and wedged against the ground or the frame to hold the yoke while you remove the pinion nut its on there tight. measure both the old and new pinion bearings. they should be the same but in case they arent you can see how much you need to either add or subtract from the shim pack underneath the pinion bearing to compensate for example if the new bearing is .002 thinner than the old bearing youd add another ..002 of shims before pressing the new bearing onto the pinion. if the new bearing is thicker youd remove that amount of shim. the rest of the re-assembly and set-up is pretty much by the book. when torquing the pinion nut to set the pre-load once you get passed the initial torque to start collapsing the spacer check the rotational torque with the inch-pound torque wrench very frequently. you can easily blow right passed the recommended rotational torque if youre not careful - then you need to remove the pinion put a new spacer on and start over again. youre obviously going to replace both pinion bearings and races - if it were me id put in fresh carrier bearings as well if you buy a master install kit for your differential youll get all the bearings. id also get new axle bearings need a slide hammer with a two-or-three jaw inside puller attachment to remove them - measure their depth in the axle tube first so you know how far in to set the new ones and axle seals.... cheap enough and youre likely to trash the axle seals with the adjuster tool anyway. .