Snow plowing
From : Annonymous
Q: the rear flaps on my dakota made the wheel wells rust.the flap on the driver side fell off early on two years later the well on the passenger side was almost rusted thru the drivers side had no rust seems the flap caused more water & road salt spray to rust the well.your better off without the flaps jmho dak 94 .
Replies:
From : roy
any idea how long the timing belts last in these under normal circumstances .
From : steve w
racemods performance module is a great way to add up to 20+ horsepower to your car truck or suv. it also provides torque increases up to 12 lb+/ft. as well as improvements in throttle response. only $29.99 www.racemod.com .
From : roy
where are you roy i saw a cj-5 in fresh paint the other day while on the road. it was outside amsterdam ny. was sitting on a trailer for sale for 1500.00 im in southeastern ma. if you are able shoot me the phone number for it. it wont hurt to talk to the owner. roy ill grab any info the next time im out there. probably late sunday or mon. thanks i appreciate it. roy .
From : roy
where are you roy i saw a cj-5 in fresh paint the other day while on the road. it was outside amsterdam ny. was sitting on a trailer for sale for 1500.00 im in southeastern ma. if you are able shoot me the phone number for it. it wont hurt to talk to the owner. roy ill grab any info the next time im out there. probably late sunday or mon. ----== posted via feeds.com - unlimited-uncensored-secure usenet ==---- http//www.feeds.com the #1 group service in the world! 120000+ groups ----= east and west-coast server farms - total privacy via encryption =---- .
From : snoman
way it seems to turn and spring back. i wonder if anyone has any tips or tricks for removing the rear brake drums. any help will be greatly appreciated. push the adjuster lever away from the star wheel with a screwdriver push it towards the outside of the wheel. then lever the star wheel down - this will retract it. if the drum moves a little bit then gets hung up then yes youre getting stuck on the shoes. if it wont move at all it may be rusted around the hub. spray around the hub with some penetrating oil to help loosen it. thanks for the response. i was not sure which way to turn the star adjuster. i even have the service manual which only states 3 remove the brake drum not saying how. i initially started turning the adjuster inwards and did so quite easily for a while and then it stopped turned due to resistance. i assumed that i was tightening the adjuster at this point. when trying to turn the adjuster in the opposite direction towards the outside it was difficult turning the wheel. i had the impression that there might be a ratcheting lever or lock that kept the adjuster wheel from untightening. however there is no reference to such a thing in the manual. when trying to remove the drum it will not budge at all. i tried hitting it a few times hoping the impact would free the drum up if it was frozen. that did not work. i will go out now and spray it real good with penetrating oil and give it another shot sunday this time being sure i turn the adjuster to the outside. thanks bill .
From : denny
it might just be low...............but without a sniffer leak detector you are shooting in the dark take it to a different shop that does ac and ask them to sniff at the condensate drain tube that will answer your question very quickly g thank you all very much for the comments!!! you have all been very helpful to me. i think transurgeon sees what im afraid of with the low funds comment. according to the mechanic i have a leak and it must be in the evaporator because he looked everywhere else. it could be true. it is just a very expensive repair and i would like to feel very secure that i am replacing the right part. i appreciate the section where people debated about the cost of the tools. i just measured the low side pressure with the ac system running and it was doing the following the compressor would click on and the reading would drop down to about 20 then it would click off and the pressure would rise back up to about 45. the compressor is clicking on and off every five seconds or so. is this how the guy knows i have a leak again i really appreciate the help in learning about this. .
From : mike simmons
mine is a 97 and the brackets still look pretty much like they did when i bought it and i can rub against them without getting rust stains on my clothing. what he is describing is heavy rust and that usually involves liquid water. hmmmmmm.... ive looked and i cant find anywhere that gary said it was heavy rust or is this just your superior intuition coming to the fore again we mere mortals stand in awe! mike -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving tbone wrote yea it sounds like your new truck went for a swim before you bought it. the actual seats were probably replaces due to water damage along with the carpet. you might want to lift the carpet and look for damage on the floor boards as well. not necessarily. the seat brackets on my 99 are rusty too. the rust started shortly after i got it. im the first owner. i got it less than a month after it was built. its not severe rust yet just a uniform surface discoloration. .
From : roy
mine is a 97 and the brackets still look pretty much like they did when i bought it and i can rub against them without getting rust stains on my clothing. what he is describing is heavy rust and that usually involves liquid water. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving tbone wrote yea it sounds like your new truck went for a swim before you bought it. the actual seats were probably replaces due to water damage along with the carpet. you might want to lift the carpet and look for damage on the floor boards as well. not necessarily. the seat brackets on my 99 are rusty too. the rust started shortly after i got it. im the first owner. i got it less than a month after it was built. its not severe rust yet just a uniform surface discoloration. .
From : steve w
yea it sounds like your new truck went for a swim before you bought it. the actual seats were probably replaces due to water damage along with the carpet. you might want to lift the carpet and look for damage on the floor boards as well. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving roy wrote roy wrote if you look on the window sticker it will tell you the dealer it was shipped to. im doubting that any dc dealership would be selling water damaged cars. one never knows though but i would guess that its a semi-normal occurance. is anyone else experiencing problems with rusting seat brackets under the seats. i noticed the brackets under my front seats and the dealer replaced them under warranty. however my back seat brackets are also rusting . i guess im wondering if this sold as new truck might have been partially submerged. i cant imagine rust forming on metals that are in a dry cab and protected from the elements by not only the cab itself but also the seats. gary the metal parts used in the seat frames etc. are bare and not painted or treated against corrosion. rust appearing on the surface of these parts is not uncommon and will happen due to humidity etc. cmon you mean that your heated girly girly seats are going to rust vbg seriously though i aint buying it. but then again you see them all the time i dont. i never had rust on my seat brackets on any dc trucks. keep in mind that the carpet gets wet with snow in the winter so the bracket nearest the door should show signs but they dont. this guy is talking about his seat back as well. im the op. this truck is in south texas havent had snow lately...at least 18 years or so. heh. gary to satisfy my heated seat buddy is it humid in south texas also what year and where did you buy it roy gary bought it in sept 2003. in san antonio market. it is not as humid as houston by any means. normally about 40%-60% humidity. if they are not painted they ought to be. i ruined a perfectly good dress shirt by trying to reach something under the seat. nice rust stain on the sleeve. thats how i came to see it. btw i am only talking about the supports under the seat in front and back seats. not the metal in the seat backs. gary gary .
From : Annonymous
the problem with ac is that you are dealing with high pressures and if you screw up things can go wrong that can hurt you as well as damage expensive components like the compressor. another problem is that many of the tools used for ac service and repair are pretty much useless for much else and are rather expensive. i myself look at the cost and usability of the tools and my time compared to the cost of having the repair done. if i have other uses for the tools or i know that i will need to use them again then i buy them and make the repair myself otherwise it makes more economic sense to just have the repair done for me. there are books on this stuff and if you really want to learn i would go there first. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving the thing is i would really like to learn and what a golden opportunity now that i have a broken system i actually have two to get some experience. i am not afraid to spend some money on equipment i just dont know what to buy or how to use it. if what you are saying is that it is too complicated or involved for the do-it-yourselfer i respect that i guess. does anybody know a way that a guy like me could learn more .
From : roy
roy wrote if you look on the window sticker it will tell you the dealer it was shipped to. im doubting that any dc dealership would be selling water damaged cars. one never knows though but i would guess that its a semi-normal occurance. is anyone else experiencing problems with rusting seat brackets under the seats. i noticed the brackets under my front seats and the dealer replaced them under warranty. however my back seat brackets are also rusting . i guess im wondering if this sold as new truck might have been partially submerged. i cant imagine rust forming on metals that are in a dry cab and protected from the elements by not only the cab itself but also the seats. gary the metal parts used in the seat frames etc. are bare and not painted or treated against corrosion. rust appearing on the surface of these parts is not uncommon and will happen due to humidity etc. cmon you mean that your heated girly girly seats are going to rust vbg seriously though i aint buying it. but then again you see them all the time i dont. i never had rust on my seat brackets on any dc trucks. keep in mind that the carpet gets wet with snow in the winter so the bracket nearest the door should show signs but they dont. this guy is talking about his seat back as well. im the op. this truck is in south texas havent had snow lately...at least 18 years or so. heh. gary .
From : Annonymous
the thing is i would really like to learn and what a golden opportunity now that i have a broken system i actually have two to get some experience. i am not afraid to spend some money on equipment i just dont know what to buy or how to use it. if what you are saying is that it is too complicated or involved for the do-it-yourselfer i respect that i guess. does anybody know a way that a guy like me could learn more .
From : denny
the thing is i would really like to learn and what a golden opportunity now that i have a broken system i actually have two to get some experience. i am not afraid to spend some money on equipment i just dont know what to buy or how to use it. if what you are saying is that it is too complicated or involved for the do-it-yourselfer i respect that i guess. does anybody know a way that a guy like me could learn more .
From : roy
dlc writes if i unplug the sensor and turn the ignition on the gauge reads low all the way to the left. if i short the lead still unpluggedto ground the gauge reads high all the way to the right. so i am confident i am dealing with the coolant sensor. it is just behind the alternator. the service manual suggests the correct resistance should be between 10k and 13k at 70 degrees. the sensor reads 2k. i havent checked the sensor with the engine warm. i know this seems backward and the gauge should read high but 2k is not a normal reading so i thought i would change out the sensor. by the way the temperature gauge has read low since i bought the vehicle last year. the only reason i am concerned is that i am still having stalling and backfiring problems and have replaced the catalytic converter muffler distributer cap and rotor spark plugs ignition wires o2 sensor fuel filter air filter and egr valve. i have also checked for vacuum leaks. so i am trying to fix anything that is possibly related. the backfiring occurs when i am driving at a constant highway speed and encounter a hill. as i gently apply more throttle to maintain the speed the engine will briefly stall and backfire through the exhaust. if i let off the gas for a few seconds the engine will begin to run smoothly and everything seems normal. on a 400 mile trip this may happen 2-3 times. any ideas thanks tbone wrote are you sure that you are looking at the correct sensor if the reading was too low the gauge should be toward the high side. .