Simple power mods?
From : joe cool
Q: that should be about the same thing as a high rise manifold that we used to use back in the 70s to increase power and fuel economy. back then we were very surprised that when we added spacers under the carb between the carb and the intake it actually increase fuel economy and performance. if there is a way to open up the exhaust as well such as headers that will improve it more than anything else you could do. but i dont know how legal it is to add headers anymore since the introduction of the catalytic converter. i saw an article in pop hot rod in the mid 80s where they took ford catalytic converters and put them on chevy vehicles to increase performance it seems that at least back then the ford converters were more open and didnt choke down the exhaust as much as the other vehicle makers. they may all use the same converters now though i dont know i have not worked on an engine in 30 years. ky i have a 97 dodge dakota i installed dual exhaust and was wanting to know if anyone knew of some simple power mods that can be done to give my weak 3.9 a little more power i saw a spacer that goes between the air intake and the intake manifold in summit catalog that claims a power increase has anyone in here ever installed one of those and recieved the claimed power increase would a hotter ignition coil help maybe thanks ! .
Replies:
From : ed medlin
tbone wrote i hate to say this but that is not knocking. engines dont normally knock at idle. thats true but it is a possibility especially with 2000 and earlier 5.2l and 5.9ls. my 2000 pinged at idle unless i ran midgrade or above. did so since new and was told it was normal. on some gm vehicles its common to hear the injectors tick. dont think ive heard that on any dodge though. .
From : roy
on jul 30 238 pm mailandcopy.com mailandc...@gmail.com wrote did anyone ever build such a thing apparently so.. i dont remember where i got this picture but i think it was someone on usenet a long time ago talking about his setup... http//a601.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/84/l265160da628bc677c86614d6ac97db08.jpg interesting! right hand drive too...i wonder where it might be from .
From : steve lusardi
in responce to marsh monster s post. i thought everyone should know === === to answer the guys question in reality the most likely and common cause of this is the rear wheel speed sensor in the top of the axle housing. i think its a $30 part. chris ======= ======= on jul 30 232 pm napalmheart wrote thats what fixed mine. ken- ======= ======= i fixed one with a fuse. i fixed another by adding brake fluid. i fixed another by cleaning the sensor. i fixed another by by rebuilding the differential. i fixed another by changing out the brake module. but............ ialwayspulledcodesbeforeifixedanyofem factnot ficton marshmonster chunks another shroom in the boiling pot.......mmmmm..... this stuffs gitn potent.......good batch..good batch no arguements about the fact that checking codes is the best thing to do but given the failure rate of the item i mentioned it wouldnt be a terribly unsafe bet to say that it probably is the culprit. dont forget i said probably. -- chris .
From : bob
03 dakota cc 60k miles and the headliners now starting to come unglued. its dropping in the middle on the passenger side and the fronts coming down as well. suggestions on how to fix .
From : steve lusardi
mike check your email i sent you somewhat... unless your addy has changed recently that is jmc got it! mike .
From : ed medlin
on jul 29 647 am hone...@radix.net beekeep wrote its probably the key cylinder. they are made out of pot metal and they wear out where they activate the switch assembly. beekeep now i have a new problem... the turn signal isnt working and the four- way flasher only works when i have the headlights turned off. also the bright light indicator is staying on regardless of high or low beam. both the turn signal indicators in the dash are staying on as well.. im hoping this time its just because this thing has been sitting for 3 weeks and maybe some water got in something it shouldnt have.. the thing drove very well though in spite of the new problems.. lol .
From : kyhighlander
i have a 97 dodge dakota i installed dual exhaust and was wanting to know if anyone knew of some simple power mods that can be done to give my weak 3.9 a little more power i saw a spacer that goes between the air intake and the intake manifold in summit catalog that claims a power increase has anyone in here ever installed one of those and recieved the claimed power increase would a hotter ignition coil help maybe thanks ! i have the 2 spacer in my 318 1995 4wd slt and i also put in an msd coil dual exhaust mopar hp computer and k&n filter. the biggest gain was in fuel economy that went from 13mpg average to 17mpg. highway milage is almost 18mpg but not quite.......-. torque increased quite a bit too with it not shifting much on small-medium grades when towing. i just went over 172000 miles and it still runs great with no oil usage. these modifications have been installed since it was at about 50000 miles and the savings in fuel alone has paid for them several times. .
From : kyhighlander
it really makes no difference how old the timing light is only that it works. you are not attempting to set the timing here only looking to see if you are getting a spark and if it is consistent. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving will any timing light work or does it need to be fairly new mine is probably 30 years old. we have checked for arching though. i dont know if it makes a differnce but the truck was actually manufactored on dec 1999. then the next step is to put a timing light on it and make sure that it is getting spark and that it is firing properly. you might also want to crank it at night and look for any arcing especially from the coil wire. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving did she have a fuel pressure check done on it yes she did. im not sure of the reading but was told it was fine -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving my wife 2000 ram 4x4 with a 360. it will not start in wet weather. she has changed the cam sensor cap and rotor the crank position sensor was changed a year ago. ive suggested she try plugs and wires but she claims that they are good. dont ask how she knows any suggestions. she had a scan tool on it and said that told her to change the cam sensor but she doesnt know the specific codes anymore. .
From : kyhighlander
well.... this has been a very humbling experience. after replacing a starter unnecessarily as well as a negative battery cable thanks to you guys i finally discovered the problem. it should have been obvious but for some reason i overlooked it. i checked the resistance of the wire from the starter hot lead to the positive terminal again this afternoon... only got 1.5 ohms. so... i undid the thing totally and removed it from the van.. discovered none other than rust there on the cable. i obviously didnt look closely enough at the positive connection at the battery. i didnt notice there was actually a separate wire going to the terminal... once i pulled out the trusty swiss army knife and scraped the terminal i measured again and there was negligible resistance through the wire. connected everything again and heard a happy noise when i turned the key! lol i hate re-learning stuff i learned a long time ago! .
From : steve lusardi
had the van for about 8 months now.. has been working fine. put a few thousand miles on it so far.. one day i went out to drive the thing and now the thing just gives a loud click when you hit the key to start it. i have replaced the negative battery cable service manual said replace if voltage drop is greater than .2 volts. i checked the starter and it works still. i tested the relay -- it works. when i went to test the ignition switch i got a small amount of voltage on one of the legs where it says youre supposed to have no voltage with the key in the run position. the switch has been acting up for a while i.e. - the key can be removed while the switch is in the run position.. so im wondering if that little bit of voltage is telling the brain to not crank the engine. does this sound reasonable anyone else had this problem im not eager to go blow $75 on a switch and have it not work. ive removed the switch from the steering column and it is dangling. i took the cover off and used the wiring diagram to figure out which wire triggers the starter relay... jumping power directly to it still only makes the thing click... i would think that it would make the thing crank. but what do i know lol any help would be greatly appreciated. btw - the van has a new battery that is a couple months old. i also tried another known good battery in its stead and same click happens. ive turned the engine about 60 degrees with my hands so im fairly certain that it is not locked up and the flywheel is not at a chewn spot. .
From : tbone
on fri 27 jul 2007 232757 +0930 jmc nogroupsspam@nojodibody.homeus wrote thanks for the tips! no such thing as industrial strength saran wrap here and dont get me started on the extra-wimpy aluminium foil! wish i had a power washer. then i wouldnt be asking! jmc you should be able to find a roll of shrink wrap.. we bought a few extra rolls when we moved because its such handy stuff... http//store.uhaul.com/masterproductdetail.aspxid=102 my wife used to wrap pallets in a warehouse and shes good with this stuff... we wrapped everything from grills and tools to large wall hangings with it and everything came through the move fine.... mac please remove splinters before emailing .
From : tbone
suddenly without warning mike simmons exclaimed 7/27/2007 909 pm i agree with denny and i have used this method on other grills. the baby q however has a cast grille made of which may not handle the caustic lye of easy off. what i would do is to turn the grill on high and let it heat up for about 10 minutes and then brush it real good with a steel wire brush. after it cools wrap it in industrial strength saran wrap and put it back in the grille and it should ship ok. if the grill is cast iron which it may be.... check it with a magnet then the easy off wont hurt it. i have used my power washer on mine before with good results. have fun in oz. mike thanks for the tips! no such thing as industrial strength saran wrap here and dont get me started on the extra-wimpy aluminium foil! wish i had a power washer. then i wouldnt be asking! jmc .
From : kyhighlander
i use easy-off oven cleaner on mine. spray it down leave it soak for 10-15 minutes and hit it with the garden hose. depending on how thick the black stuff is it may take 2-3 cycles to get it down to metal. an old wire brush really helps scrubbing between applications. life just isnt fair......... the old man leaves and you start cooking out......... geesh... vbg figures that wide ride would know about anything having to do with cooking.bfg i take mine apart and power wash it. if that doesnt move it it probably isnt going to come off. im a little reluctant to use any cleaner as you put food on it when your done. if you have a self cleaning oven you might be able to put the grill in it and clean them both at the same time. also i suppose it has to do with the material the grill is made of. roy denny ok im gonna do something really sexist as perhaps the only one in here with two x chromosomes g assume because this place is full of guys with trucks its also full of guys with grills im the griller in the family must be the same gene that makes me a geek girl who likes trucks.