Shifter won't move.
From : hp
Q: william. boyd wrote jbarts wrote 1996 dodge ram 2500 5.9l engine i was changing my plugs and one broke. the body of the plug came out but the part that bottom part screws into the head is still in there. what can i do to remove this ive tried my tap and die i could not move it. out of all the plugs it had the most rust. ive wd40 it and will let it sit overnight. is there anything i can buy that will help me take this out im guessing it might have to be drilled out. if i have to take it to a shop what will something like this cost to fix please reply here and if you need more info just ask ill be checking the thread hourly! thanks! i use liquid wrench wd is good but the lw is a tad better. you should use a six sided socket rather than 12. is the engine good and cold or was it still a little worm when you started to pull the plugs let it soak all night and you can get a lot more torque on it with the impact socket six sided. before you go to extremes and try to drill it out try a couple of good raps with a hammer and an old 3/4 inch bolt as a punch then put the impact socket back on it. i
Replies:
From : mac davis
a mechanic twisted off #7 spark plug on my 96 dodge ram 1500 5.7 liter v-8. furthest back on left and obstructed by master cylinder vacuum chamber steering column and several brake-lines. at least it sloped forward instead of rearward. he then sent me on my way to have it dealt with somewhere else. and yes it was a champion plug as has been criticized by some on the web rc12yc..14mm 3/4 reach. i wasnt quick enough to challenge him when he used only a simple ratchet handle and socket which exerts extra side-pressure on the threads and a harmful side-tilting force on the plug. he ovbviously should have used an extension using any method to insure that the extension only exerted pure rotational force on the spark plug. he had advised against using an impact tool on it. in fairness i had removed the other 7 plugs and another one was extremely tight and i had thought it might twist off. i took the last one to the mechanic because i thought he might have some better method. some of my initial ideas for removing the threads failed wasting a period of time ..lucky i didnt need the truck....including a few careless maneuvers that cost me a lot of wasted time and effort...especially because of waiting almost a day every time i used jb-weld epoxy that needed to cure. its possible some of my attempts may have helped a little but here is what finally worked based on a web- posters success using an oxy/acetyln torch for heating. i bought a square-type tapered bolt remover usually called easy-outs sized for 5/16 hole. then bought a can of some kind of freezing spray at radio shack that can chill to -50 degree f. also available at www.mcminone.com envi-ro-tech freezer #20-2200 1-800-543-4330 or 1-877-626-3532. i then went back to the mechanic and he used his oxy/acetlyn torch with a very small tip to heat the the remaining spark plug shell to a cherry- red. i then immediately sprayed it with the cold-spray after which he was able to use the square easy-out to remove the remains of the spark plug. actually we repeated the heating chilling sequence a second time. he admitted that he had never been able to get them out before and had initially sent me away to a machine shop when he first broke it off. i of course got my suggestions from posters on the internet. in hindsight i might try an alternate approach first i bought a left hand thread tap 3/8-16 that can be hand-turned thru the existing hole strongly magnetized to retain the metal particles...the shell spark gap electrode only bent it did not separate and fall into the cylinder. this provides two things...it thins or weakens the shell a little and when a left-hand thread bolt is screwed in it bottoms out counter-clockwise after which force is now applied to turning the plug shell out....without any outward pressure to the sides such as a tapered square easy-out must have heating cherry red as before. unfortunately i only thought of this after i had earlier run a right-hand tap through...and as i suspected the threads were too weak to avoid stripping out. i was only able to buy a grade 5 bolt strength left-hand so a judgement would have to be made whether it would twist off. of course we had the same worry with the tapered square easy-out. ....so its possible my earlier misadventure cutting the threads did help in the final success. needless to say i used anti-seize paste on the threads although some claim that changes the heat-range value. get your name as your email address. includes spam protection 1gb storage no ads and more only $1.99/ month - visit http//www.mysite.com/name today! .
From : hp
penetrating oil has saved my ass on more than one occasion like this. try spraying that then go back to the tap. i know theres a drill bit that is supposed to grab stuff like that. might be a sears craftsman tool. definitely the penetrating lube definitely. wd40 doesnt come close to this stuff. hope you put anti-seize compound on the threads.. you did didnt you 1996 dodge ram 2500 5.9l engine i was changing my plugs and one broke. the body of the plug came out but the part that bottom part screws into the head is still in there. what can i do to remove this ive tried my tap and die i could not move it. out of all the plugs it had the most rust. ive wd40 it and will let it sit overnight. is there anything i can buy that will help me take this out im guessing it might have to be drilled out. if i have to take it to a shop what will something like this cost to fix please reply here and if you need more info just ask ill be checking the thread hourly! thanks! .
From : ronbc
well my truck had a black insert the old radio fit into and the one that was in the truck did not fit the new bigger radio. dont know why you didnt but i did if you do this make sure you order a new radio tray to fit the unit they are cheap. but what the hell your gonna need a new bezel too. i just did this in a durango and i put in the rb1 it is fantastic. tom thinking about installing this system in my durango. looking for some input on the system is it accuate and any other kind of pros and cons. radio tray i dont see why you need such a thing i installed it without a problem no bezel no tray .
From : tom lawrence
on wed 26 jan 2005 william. boyd wrote i use liquid wrench wd is good but the lw is a tad better. both of them are silly kid stuff. kroil and mopar 3418039 are the only two penetrating fluids worth messing with. .