Right blinker going twice as fast as normal
From : roy batty
Q: 99 ram van 5.9l right signal is clicking and flashing at what seems exactly twice normal rate. left signal is normal speed. the blinker module is in the left dash fuse area and both blinkers appear to be run by the same module. one thing that is maybe a clue i dunno - back when i owned a car whenever i had a trailer hooked up to the car and the trailer tail lights spliced into my cars system the blinkers would blink at twice their normal speed. must have had something to do with the added load. anyway not a thing thats a real serious issue but curious. what does a blinker module cost if that needs replacing what say you .
Replies:
From : tbone
you really should take your own advice and i do. i use a 4 way on the regular flasher system on my dually works just fine with out the trailer works fine with it. never said that it wouldnt but they still depend on the current flowing through them to operate properly. according to littlefuse a thermal hazard flasher 4 way still needs between 2 and 6 bulbs to operate normally so in this case the problem would still exist. you ever do any actual auto work whats the matter red upset because i called you out on your idiotic agreement about increased resistance increasing current perhaps you should return back to what you know something about like brakes oh wait a minute you dont know shit about them either never mind. freaken idiot fucking moron -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : tbone
i know what the problem is so do i you are a childish littly boy who hate to look like an idiot yet you do it to yourself time and time again. life must really suck for you. according to littlefuse a thermal hazard flasher 4 way still needs between 2 and 6 bulbs to operate normally so in this case the problem would still exist. freaken idiot gee your breaking my heart. now go back to your back asswards way of setting up cam timing. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : redneck tookover hell
i know what the problem is according to littlefuse a thermal hazard flasher 4 way still needs between 2 and 6 bulbs to operate normally so in this case the problem would still exist. freaken idiot a dyslexic man walks into a bra. .
From : tbone
thats not what you asked but yes i did for about 2 years. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving say t bone i asked a couple days ago about whether you ever worked in an auto repair shop im still waiting so do i you are a childish littly boy who hate to look like an idiot yet you do it to yourself time and time a dyslexic man walks into a bra. .
From : clare snyder on ca
on sat 27 sep 2003 103937 -0700 bilbo@the-shire.com wrote poor contact equals higher resistance which means higher current draw. the key word here is poor instead of no which would be the same as a burned out bulb. no bilbo. high resistance means low current - same as a blown bulb infinite resistance depends on the flasher. some flashes will not flash or will flash very slowly with too low a load others flash fast. a lot of the heavy duty electronic flashers used today flash virtually the same speed with trailer connected or disconnected 2 or 3 filaments lit but flash very quickly with only one filament lit. bilbo on sat 27 sep 2003 163317 gmt nirodac nirodac@hotmail.com wrote maybe ive missed something here if the bulb is making poor contact how does that cause the flasher to flash faster the current draw would be less. i agree that the light could be ass backward that could cause this problem by causing both filaments in the bulb to be on at the same time. also impure water salt in the socket might cause a short to ground. but an open bulb as in burned out i cant see that. the closest ive come to that would have been the time the adhesive that holds the glass bulb to the metal base gave out and i inadvertently twisted the wires inside the base of the lamp together. ray sounds like somebody got the right tail light bulb in ass backwards not easy but not impossible........ if not that moisture in the lamp housing will do this too so will a burned-out bulb or a bulb that is not making good contact. try removing and reinstalling the bulb a few times or cleaning the contact points.. .
From : frank k
sounds like somebody got the right tail light bulb in ass backwards not easy but not impossible........ if not that moisture in the lamp housing will do this too so will a burned-out bulb or a bulb that is not making good contact. try removing and reinstalling the bulb a few times or cleaning the contact points.. .
From : hdinny
tbone wrote since when does higher resistance equate to a higher current draw for the same voltage ever hear of a resistance electric heater hd in ny .
From : tbone
maybe ive missed something here if the bulb is making poor contact how does that cause the flasher to flash faster the current draw would be less. actually tom is correct. a burnt out bulb or reduced current will cause the flash rate to increase go faster not decrease. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : tom lawrence
sounds like somebody got the right tail light bulb in ass backwards not easy but not impossible........ if not that moisture in the lamp housing will do this too so will a burned-out bulb .
From : jerry
roy batty wrote 99 ram van 5.9l right signal is clicking and flashing at what seems exactly twice normal rate. left signal is normal speed. the blinker module is in the left dash fuse area and both blinkers appear to be run by the same module. one thing that is maybe a clue i dunno - back when i owned a car whenever i had a trailer hooked up to the car and the trailer tail lights spliced into my cars system the blinkers would blink at twice their normal speed. must have had something to do with the added load. anyway not a thing thats a real serious issue but curious. what does a blinker module cost if that needs replacing what say you sounds like a burned out bulb as tom suggested. turn em on and take a look...... jerry .
From : mac davismac davismac davis
on sat 27 sep 2003 132343 gmt roy roy@home.net wrote seems that you guys are out looking for new best friends maybe it is time for one of you two to share the machine with the other. denny took it with him when he went to see you this summer. i thought you guys were sharing it/ vbeg wait a sec you have had and continue to have possession of the machine since last year. iirc you and your ageing friend with the pony tailsorry bro were going to hook up with each other at some military installation in the northwest and mac was going to transfer the machine to you. as it went the two of ya couldnt even coordinate a simple meet so the machine was sent the rest of the way to you red via ups. talk about two old geezers lost in a phone booth. gbmfg roy i think the key to roys post is the iirc.... that sometimers is good for creating a smoke screen sometimes.. lol .
From : redneck tookover hell
t-boner has trouble with some concepts i think its the pollution in new joisey since when does higher resistance equate to a higher current draw for the same voltage ever hear of a resistance electric heater hd in ny a dyslexic man walks into a bra. .
From : nirodac
i would actually check for a short circuit to ground or some other device placing a heavy load on the right hand flasher circuit. if the flasher works ok on the left side that would rule out a faulty flasher. lights usually dont start to fail they just stop working. lights drawing heavier than normal current thats what makes the flasher module blink faster will burn themselves up really fast. your right about the trailer causing a heavy load on the flasher thats why it blinked faster. the fix would have been to replace the standard issue flasher with a new electronic version that could have handled the extra load. dont try the electronic version now at least until you find out what the current problem is or youll be buying lots of fuses. obtw flashers operate in series with the signal lights and the signal switch. the whole system is a series circuit. battery to selector switch to flasher to lamps to ground. the old style flashers operated by having a bimetal strip heated by nichrome wire open a set of contacts that turned the lights off. when the bimetal strip cooled down the contacts closed the lights turned on the bimetal strip heated up again the circuit opened the bimetal strip cooled down etc etc etc. the heater in-home wire was in series with the signal lamps and its own contacts. the more lamps the more current draw the faster the heater heated up and the faster the flasher would flash. electronic flashers used a relay and a capacitor to hold the contacts open for a fixed length of time. the current to the lamps was independent of the current required for the relay hence the load did not affect the flash rate. the down side is youll blow a fuse rather that just have a faster flash rate. ray on sat 27 sep 2003 005744 gmt roy batty tyrell@mac.com wrote 99 ram van 5.9l right signal is clicking and flashing at what seems ex actly twice normal rate. left signal is normal speed. the blinker module is in the left dash fuse area and both blinkers appear to be run by the same module. one thing that is maybe a clue i dunno - back when i owned a car whenever i had a trailer hooked up to the car and the trailer tail lights spliced into my cars system the blinkers would blink at twice their normal speed. must have had something to do with the added load. anyway not a thing thats a real serious issue but curious. what does a blinker module cost if that needs replacing what say you my guess would be a bad bulb or a flasher on the way out... i had a cougar that started flashing faster on one side and it was the flasher unit... .
From : nirodac
maybe ive missed something here if the bulb is making poor contact how does that cause the flasher to flash faster the current draw would be less. i agree that the light could be ass backward that could cause this problem by causing both filaments in the bulb to be on at the same time. also impure water salt in the socket might cause a short to ground. but an open bulb as in burned out i cant see that. the closest ive come to that would have been the time the adhesive that holds the glass bulb to the metal base gave out and i inadvertently twisted the wires inside the base of the lamp together. ray sounds like somebody got the right tail light bulb in ass backwards not easy but not impossible........ if not that moisture in the lamp housing will do this too so will a burned-out bulb or a bulb that is not making good contact. try removing and reinstalling the bulb a few times or cleaning the contact points.. .
From : Annonymous
an example is if you have a bad ground to a trailer the turn signals will flash faster. i have had that problem. the same holds true for a burned out bulb as tom lawrence wrote. im not sure of the technical reason but it happens. frank maybe ive missed something here if the bulb is making poor contact how does that cause the flasher to flash faster the current draw would be less. i agree that the light could be ass backward that could cause this problem by causing both filaments in the bulb to be on at the same time. also impure water salt in the socket might cause a short to ground. but an open bulb as in burned out i cant see that. the closest ive come to that would have been the time the adhesive that holds the glass bulb to the metal base gave out and i inadvertently twisted the wires inside the base of the lamp together. ray sounds like somebody got the right tail light bulb in ass backwards not easy but not impossible........ if not that moisture in the lamp housing will do this too so will a burned-out bulb or a bulb that is not making good contact. try removing and reinstalling the bulb a few times or cleaning the contact points.. .
From : Annonymoustbone
poor contact equals higher resistance which means higher current draw. the key word here is poor instead of no which would be the same as a burned out bulb. bilbo on sat 27 sep 2003 163317 gmt nirodac nirodac@hotmail.com wrote maybe ive missed something here if the bulb is making poor contact how does that cause the flasher to flash faster the current draw would be less. i agree that the light could be ass backward that could cause this problem by causing both filaments in the bulb to be on at the same time. also impure water salt in the socket might cause a short to ground. but an open bulb as in burned out i cant see that. the closest ive come to that would have been the time the adhesive that holds the glass bulb to the metal base gave out and i inadvertently twisted the wires inside the base of the lamp together. ray sounds like somebody got the right tail light bulb in ass backwards not easy but not impossible........ if not that moisture in the lamp housing will do this too so will a burned-out bulb or a bulb that is not making good contact. try removing and reinstalling the bulb a few times or cleaning the contact points.. .
From : tbone
since when does higher resistance equate to a higher current draw for the same voltage -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving poor contact equals higher resistance which means higher current draw. the key word here is poor instead of no which would be the same as a burned out bulb. bilbo on sat 27 sep 2003 163317 gmt nirodac nirodac@hotmail.com wrote maybe ive missed something here if the bulb is making poor contact how does that cause the flasher to flash faster the current draw would be less. i agree that the light could be ass backward that could cause this problem by causing both filaments in the bulb to be on at the same time. also impure water salt in the socket might cause a short to ground. but an open bulb as in burned out i cant see that. the closest ive come to that would have been the time the adhesive that holds the glass bulb to the metal base gave out and i inadvertently twisted the wires inside the base of the lamp together. ray sounds like somebody got the right tail light bulb in ass backwards not easy but not impossible........ if not that moisture in the lamp housing will do this too so will a burned-out bulb or a bulb that is not making good contact. try removing and reinstalling the bulb a few times or cleaning the contact points.. .
From : clare snyder on ca
on mon 29 sep 2003 150345 -0400 tbone fatchance@noway.now wrote you really should take your own advice and i do. i use a 4 way on the regular flasher system on my dually works just fine with out the trailer works fine with it. never said that it wouldnt but they still depend on the current flowing through them to operate properly. according to littlefuse a thermal hazard flasher 4 way still needs between 2 and 6 bulbs to operate normally so in this case the problem would still exist. most vehicles today do not use a thermal flasher anymore. they use electronic flashers with built in failure indicators - ergo they flash quickly when running reduced load. you ever do any actual auto work whats the matter red upset because i called you out on your idiotic agreement about increased resistance increasing current perhaps you should return back to what you know something about like brakes oh wait a minute you dont know shit about them either never mind. freaken idiot fucking moron profanity - the attempt of a feeble mind to express itself forcibly. .
From : ol duffer
after 38 years in electronics i still believe that increasing the resistance with the voltage fixed will decrease the current even in autos. tbone is probably confused by the effect of poor connections generating heat. .
From : tbone
after 38 years in electronics i still believe that increasing the resistance with the voltage fixed will decrease the current even in autos. tbone is probably confused by the effect of poor connections generating heat. wtf are you talking about. i disagreed with the added resistance increasing current because resistance decreases current. my original question to the poster was since when does increasing current increase resistance. i then followed up on the poster heater responce with ohms law stating that added resistance decreases current. perhaps you need to get a new set of reading glasses. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : tbone
tbone wrote wtf are you talking about. i disagreed with the added resistance increasing current because resistance decreases current. make your battery terminals really loose to increase contact resistance and then crank the engine. see the smoke high current draw is whats causing the smoke. however your statement is still true. ohms law hasnt changed. now i am really getting lost in the way that this thread is turning. i never said that an increased resistance cant or doesnt generate more heat either. all i did was disagree with the poster about increased resistance increasing the current and that a lower current in a thermal flasher actually causes them to go faster not slower. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : bob
just today i had the left turn signal speed up on the way to work. i checked the lights the rear left light was not working. after work i ran over to the parts store to pick up a bulb but found the light was working again and the turn signal was blinking its normal rate again. i suspect i have a loose connection causing the lamp to go out. assuming that the front and rear lamps are in parallel that would cut the resistance in half doubling the current. i remember the old flashers depended on heating to cause a metal strip nitinol to distort which caused it to make or break contact on cooling it would break or make contact. with the current doubled i guess it would heat faster and blink faster. when the loose connection was made again it returned to the normal blink rate/current load/heat rate. does that sound plausible -- bob 01 dodge ram 1500 4x4 .
From : fmb
99 ram van 5.9l right signal is clicking and flashing at what seems exactly twice normal rate. left signal is normal speed. the blinker module is in the left dash fuse area and both blinkers appear to be run by the same module. one thing that is maybe a clue i dunno - back when i owned a car whenever i had a trailer hooked up to the car and the trailer tail lights spliced into my cars system the blinkers would blink at twice their normal speed. must have had something to do with the added load. anyway not a thing thats a real serious issue but curious. what does a blinker module cost if that needs replacing what say you sure is nice everyone trying to give you advice on what is wrong. i think they all missed the point though. it sounds like the blinker is going the right speed your van just isnt going fast enough to spread those blinks over a greater distance. to spread those blinks over a greater distance at a great savings in gasoline btw is to install a tornado and k&n together. follow the instructions to the letter. warning installed together improperly may not only make your van go way too fast but will increase the volume of gasoline in your tank to the point you will have to drain it into your neighbors vehicles daily. i hope your weekend is a great one... fmb .
From : redneck tookover hell
it blinked faster. the fix would have been to replace the standard issue flasher with a new electronic version that could have handled the extra load. dont try the electronic version now at least until you find out you do not need to buy one of the new electronic ones. you simply use the flasher from the 4 way circuit. since the load from flashing all the lights at once is greater than just flashing 2 they can handle the extra current demand. a dyslexic man walks into a bra. .
From : tbone
is that any different than a standard electric heater are you talking about elements that change their resistance with heat it really doesnt matter because adding resistance with a constant voltage lowers current this is simple ohms law of current = volts / ohms. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving tbone wrote since when does higher resistance equate to a higher current draw for the same voltage ever hear of a resistance electric heater hd in ny .
From : tbone
you really should stay out of things that you know absolutely nothing about. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving t-boner has trouble with some concepts i think its the pollution in new joisey since when does higher resistance equate to a higher current draw for the same voltage ever hear of a resistance electric heater hd in ny a dyslexic man walks into a bra. .
From : tbone
actually that type needs the extra current draw to function properly and would not work well on a two bulb system. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving it blinked faster. the fix would have been to replace the standard issue flasher with a new electronic version that could have handled the extra load. dont try the electronic version now at least until you find out you do not need to buy one of the new electronic ones. you simply use the flasher from the 4 way circuit. since the load from flashing all the lights at once is greater than just flashing 2 they can handle the extra current demand. a dyslexic man walks into a bra. .
From : gary glaenzer
tbone wrote since when does higher resistance equate to a higher current draw for the same voltage ever hear of a resistance electric heater hd in ny yes an increased resistance at a given voltage equals reduced current i = e / r .
From : nirodac
try this site for some auto tech 101 http//www.autoshop101.com/techarticles/technicalarticles.html the first few articles are really basic and cover ohms law. while they talk about toyota it is my belief that electrical behavior isnt specific to one manufacturer after 38 years in electronics i still believe that increasing the resistance with the voltage fixed will decrease the current even in autos. ray 99 ram van 5.9l right signal is clicking and flashing at what seems exactly twice normal rate. left signal is normal speed. the blinker module is in the left dash fuse area and both blinkers appear to be run by the same module. one thing that is maybe a clue i dunno - back when i owned a car whenever i had a trailer hooked up to the car and the trailer tail lights spliced into my cars system the blinkers would blink at twice their normal speed. must have had something to do with the added load. anyway not a thing thats a real serious issue but curious. what does a blinker module cost if that needs replacing what say you sure is nice everyone trying to give you advice on what is wrong. i think they all missed the point though. it sounds like the blinker is going the right speed your van just isnt going fast enough to spread those blinks over a greater distance. to spread those blinks over a greater distance at a great savings in gasoline btw is to install a tornado and k&n together. follow the instructions to the letter. warning installed together improperly may not only make your van go way too fast but will increase the volume of gasoline in your tank to the point you will have to drain it into your neighbors vehicles daily. i hope your weekend is a great one... fmb .
From : clare snyder on ca
on sat 27 sep 2003 193307 gmt hdinny error@error.com wrote tbone wrote since when does higher resistance equate to a higher current draw for the same voltage ever hear of a resistance electric heater yes sure have. the higher the resistance the lower the current wattage and heat output. a dead short virtually zero resistance draws maximum current and produces so much heat it blows the fuse or burns off the wires. study ohms law. hd in ny .
From : redneck tookover hell
you really should take your own advice i use a 4 way on the regular flasher system on my dually works just fine with out the trailer works fine with it. you ever do any actual auto work freaken idiot you really should stay out of things that you know absolutely nothing about. a dyslexic man walks into a bra. .
From : redneck tookover hell
say t bone i asked a couple days ago about whether you ever worked in an auto repair shop im still waiting so do i you are a childish littly boy who hate to look like an idiot yet you do it to yourself time and time a dyslexic man walks into a bra. .
From : camille
youve got a grounding problem on the suspect light. i had the same problem just today when i was changing the taillight assemblies on my 94 chevy. old lights were dingy and im getting ready to sell the truck... anyway the passenger tailight lost ground and the passenger front turn signal started blinking doubletime. i secured a good ground on the tailight and the problem was solved. find the dirty or corroded ground connection on that light and brush or sand it a little. by the way... im selling my 94 2wd sb 1/2 ton chevy cruiser because i pick up my 2004 ram 1500 4x4 slt sb hemi on thursday. yeah baby! life is good! dale not camille bob wrote just today i had the left turn signal speed up on the way to work. i checked the lights the rear left light was not working. after work i ran over to the parts store to pick up a bulb but found the light was working again and the turn signal was blinking its normal rate again. i suspect i have a loose connection causing the lamp to go out. assuming that the front and rear lamps are in parallel that would cut the resistance in half doubling the current. i remember the old flashers depended on heating to cause a metal strip nitinol to distort which caused it to make or break contact on cooling it would break or make contact. with the current doubled i guess it would heat faster and blink faster. when the loose connection was made again it returned to the normal blink rate/current load/heat rate. does that sound plausible .
From : tbone
just today i had the left turn signal speed up on the way to work. i checked the lights the rear left light was not working. after work i ran over to the parts store to pick up a bulb but found the light was working again and the turn signal was blinking its normal rate again. i suspect i have a loose connection causing the lamp to go out. assuming that the front and rear lamps are in parallel that would cut the resistance in half doubling the current. i remember the old flashers depended on heating to cause a metal strip nitinol to distort which caused it to make or break contact on cooling it would break or make contact. with the current doubled i guess it would heat faster and blink faster. when the loose connection was made again it returned to the normal blink rate/current load/heat rate. does that sound plausible not really. since the bulbs are wired in parallel losing one causes the loss of an entire current path and that cuts the current in half. thermal flashers actually flash faster as the current drops from their designed spec and too low of a current will stop them from flashing at all. overloading them causes rapid cycle off times and long delays to cycle back on and prematurely burns them out. so you are correct in what was causing the change in flasher speed just not in the current load. as for the light it could still be a bad bulb or possibly a loose connection. i would change the bulb anyway and make sure that the socket is clean. this way if it happens again you will have a pretty good idea of what is not causing it. .