Removing transmission...and bleeding the clutch hydraulics
From : marsh monster
Q: suddenly without warning mac davis exclaimed 27-oct-05 408 pm on wed 26 oct 2005 215332 +0100 jmc nogroupsspam@nojodibody.homeus wrote id like to say the op has been sitting back quite enjoying this little exchange one of these days im going to have to do some googling to find out the origin of the whole bunny thing though jmc who has been getting pretty thoroughly rained on for the last week. perhaps i should have installed pontoons rather than new tires... he could tell you but then hed have to kill you.. ah but hed have to catch me first and i have a biiig head start! - jmc but your gonna come home sooner or later... i think the old saying is time is on my side. bg denny .
Replies:
From : nosey
the guy said that he drove offroad a lot and between high center of gravity and cross winds he got rid of his old slide-in and got the popup one... i figure with a standard slide in i could take turns with the wifey sleeping/driving. a popup is only usable when its popped up. -- nathan w. collier http//inlinediesel.com http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com http//bighornrefrigeration.com .
From : budd cochran
lol most people would not and some dont even realize that they are doing it. really i used to and i knew it and i corrected myself. i can only speak for myself and sometimes when i have been stuck in slow moving traffic for a while and then it opens up i sometimes forget that my foot is still on the clutch pedal. i usually realize it when i set the cruise. i just remembered how my mom taught me to avoid it . . i tuck the clutch foot back under my right leg until i see i might need it again. in traffic i keep it on the floorboard below the pedal. budd my wife still reminds me that i sometimes stomp my left foot on the floor after each shift. i dont even realize when i do it. when learning to drive dad insisted that i stomp my clutch foot on the floor so he could hear it. by doing that he didnt have to constantly watch my feet to see if i was riding the clutch. 25 years later im still stomping on the floor. -- ken .
From : budd cochran
max dodge wrote check with cummins for their specs and comments on using biodiesel. from www.cummins.com customer assistancefaqgeneral what is cummins position on the use of biodiesel fuel in cummins engines background with increased interest in emissions and reducing the use of petroleum distillate based fuels some governments and regulating bodies are encouraging the use of bio fuels. biodiesel fuels should be considered experimental at this time. governmental incentives and/or environmental legislation to use bio fuels may have an impact on the sales and use of cummins engines. this document outlines cummins criteria and parameters when using biodiesel fuel. sme or some soy methyl ester diesel is the most common bio diesel in the u.s. and is derived from soybean oil. soy diesel is a biodiesel/petrodiesel blend based on sme. rme rape methyl ester diesel is the most common biodiesel in europe and is derived from rapeseed oil. these fuels are collectively known as fatty acid methyl esters fame. fuel characteristics biodiesel fuels are methyl/ethyl ester-based oxygenates derived from a broad variety of renewable sources such as vegetable oils animal fats and cooking oils. their properties are similar to diesel fuel as opposed to gasoline or gaseous fuels and thus are capable of being used in compression ignition engines. biodiesel fuels have a lower energy content; about 89% of #2 diesel fuel and is therefore a less efficient fuel. its higher viscosity range 1.9-6.0 centistokes vs 1.3-5.8 centistokes for diesel helps offset the lower energy content through reduced barrel/plunger leakage resulting in slightly improved injection efficiency. combining lower energy content and slightly improved injection efficiency biodiesel fuel provides 5-7% less energy per gallon compared to diesel fuel. the cetane value of biodiesel fuel is 40 minimum compared to 42 minimum for cummins diesel fuel specification. biodiesel fuel has improved lubricity compared to standard diesel fuel. there are provisional specifications for fame issued in germany under din v 51 606 and also recently through astm ps-121 however these standards are under development and are subject to change. for additional information refer to the cummins diesel fuel specifications listed in table 1 and to the astm provisional specification ps-121 for biodiesel fuels. emissions it is the responsibility of the user to obtain the proper local regional and/or national exemptions required for the use of biodiesel in any emissions regulated cummins engine. from the comprehensive health and environmental effects testing a fuel blend consisting of 20% biodiesel and 80% diesel fuel b20 can yield percent reductions ranging from 16-33% in particulates 11-25% in carbon monoxide co and 19-32% in hydrocarbon hc emissions. the b20 biodiesel fuel blend will cause an increase in nox of 2%. performance and durability results cummins test data on the operating effects of biodiesel fuels indicates that typically smoke power and fuel economy are all reduced. however as there are no firm industry standards on the content and properties for bio fuels consistency and predictability of biodiesel operation is not well documented. biodiesel provides approximately 5-7% less energy per gallon of fuel when compared to distillate fuels. to avoid engine problems when the engine is converted back to 100% distillate diesel fuel do not change the engine rating to compensate for the power loss when operated with biodiesel fuels. elastomer compatibility with bio diesel is still being monitored. the condition of seals hoses gaskets and wire coatings should be monitored regularly. cummins certifies its engines using the prescribed epa and european certification fuels. cummins does not certify engines on any other fuel. it is the users responsibility to use the correct fuel as recommended by the manufacturer and allowed by epa or other local regulatory agencies. in the united states the epa allows use of only registered fuels for on-highway applications. the epa has additional alternative fuel information at http//www.epa.gov/otaq/consumer/fuels/altfuels/altfuels.htm given the current industry understanding of bio fuels and blending with quality diesel fuel it would be expected that blending up to a 5% volume concentration should not cause serious problems. for customers intent on blending bio fuels above a 5% volume concentration the following concerns represent what is currently known in the industry. concentrations beyond 5% by volume could have an adverse effect on the engines performance and the fuel system integrity/durability. the affects are more serious with increasing concentration levels. areas of concern when operating with biodiesel fuels include low temperature operability fuel gelation filter plugging heat content poor fuel economy and storage and thermal stability filter plugging injector de
From : tbone
http//pages.ebay.com/help/newtoebay/usenet-policy.html over 5000 car audio in-dash units auctions currently on ebay. wtf makes you so special your crossposted spam is not tolerated in the saturn group. you have been reported. end of discussion. well i bet that just really fucks up his day....or not.... .
From : tbone
fix your quotes. i skip most of your posts because they are too hard to read. -- ken .
From : tbone
.. .. inline =3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d =3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d mr-d150@spam.citlink.net budd=a0cochran air expands when heated most fluids do not . . -- budd cochran =3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d =3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d budd get a couple of them empty morgandavid bottles you have chunked out the back door......... go down to the local hardyware store and buy some corks to plug em up with....... then..... cork up bout a dozen empty ones...... then.... fill up bout a dozen of them with bout a dozen different fluids......preferably anything automotive in nature being as this is an automotive forum............now cork em up..... no air.... then...... put all 2 dozen in yer oven and cut that sucker on to 400 degrees for bout 2 or 3 hours........ then..... come on back here and post how many of the empty ones and how many of the fluid filled ones still had the corks in them.... also......... jest fer giggles....while yer waitn on those scientific proofs in yer oven....... fill a budwieser bottle all the way to the top with a fluid.....any fluid will do.... holding that sucker in one hand ......... very sharply and very firmly slap the palm of yer hand down on the opening.....sealing it with a downward thrust...... after yuh clean the sheet out yer pants........ try it with an air filled bottle. post the results...... the ones in direct conflict with your above statement. marshmonster would suggest you do that last test outside .
From : marsh monster
.. .. inline =========== =========== marshmonster thats not possible. the clutch will not apply under any scenario resulting from an improperly bled system. marshmosnter ============ ============ try reading what budd said. he mentioned nothing about the clutch. simply said that an improperly bled system could result in faster than normal throwout bearing wear. that is not only possible its probable. ============== ============== tbonenospam@nc.rr.com tbone wrote i am not sure that this is exactly what budd either said or meant but if you actually believe this max prove it because in reality you are dead wrong. there is no way in hell that an improperly bled system could cause excessive wear to the bearing but it is highly probable to cause excessive wear to the clutch. i dont claim to be a hydraulics expert but there are some simple facts that seem to be completely distorted. first of all gas liquid and solids all expand to some degree when heated with the difference being that liquids and solids apply extreme pressure when any expansion occurs and gasses do not unless the expansion is significant. the reason why there is a slight gap required in a mechanical clutch linkage is due to the possible expansion of the mechanical parts partially engaging the clutch and causing excessive wear and slippage to the clutch not the bearing. the return spring serves to stop the linkage from rattling when in full release due to the required gap as much as anything else. as for gravity the weight of the fluid is so insignificant in a 3/16 line that i doubt that it could supply enough force to even move the clutch slave cylinder at all never mind move it with enough force to cause excessive wear on the bearing. air in the system will also not cause the slave cylinder to move because if it expands all it will do is push the fluid back into the master cylinder reservoir as at full release the ports between the master cylinder and the reservoir are open pretty much just like the brake master cylinder. it does however have the ability to cause excessive clutch wear because it could prevent the clutch slave cylinder from moving enough to fully disengage the clutch when required due to its compressibility. as for the bearing wear i would think that it goes through as much wear sitting at a single traffic light while holding the clutch in as it does with a year of wear with the light to non-existent pressure being placed on it during normal driving when the clutch is fully engaged. it sounds like the op simply has a bad bearing possibly contaminated with dirt during assembly causing excessive wear and premature failure. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving ============ ============ t-bone i expect that budd will hush now. too bad...... marshmonster knows what he knows and knows what t-bone knows and knows budd dont knows what we knows and it shows .
From : max dodge
yup had the same thing happen to me. one time it sdimply died and never restarted it was the inj pump. second time appears to be a loose wiring harness at the apps. -- max give a man a match and he is warm for a short while. light him on fire and he is warm for the rest of his life. i have a 01 2500 cummins. about 8 months ago there was a dead spot at about 35 mph the tach and speedometer would fluctuate then continue to speed up. about 4 months ago the motor seemed to lack power then slowly would not respond to any mashing of the accelerator pedal at all. i would have to shut it off wait for the light to go out then start it up and it would run fine. then i took it in to dodge and they said the fuel pump in the tank and the injector pump were both bad code p0216 or 18 i believe. anyway it was still less than 100000 miles so they changed it for free. i am wondering if anyone else had experienced similar problems with engine lag. and if dodge/cummins doesnt want to replace a known faulty item. by the way there arent any new injector pumps out there only rebuilt ones. total cost if it was out of warranty - about $3500. .
From : budd cochran
doesnt matter. if i couldnt tow more than 2000 pounds with it i would trade it on an f350. - heh... with a 12000lb. gvwr and a tow rating of 13500lbs. combined rating of 21000lbs. that shouldnt be a problem. i have no idea where the 200lb. tongue weight/2000lb. total trailer weight came into the picture. with your 6000lb. trailer a vehicle of 7500lbs. 600lbs. of people/posessions and 3500lbs. of camper that puts your gvwr right about 12000lbs figuring tongue weight of trailer as well. the trailer puts you at 18000lbs. gcvwr which is well within specs. im a little worried about your front axle especially with the added weight of the winch on it... the front axles only rated at 5200lbs. and already has about 4500lbs. on it with your configuration. i also have no idea about the hitch extension given the overhanging camper. id certainly think about getting a class 5 hitch on there dont know if theyre available for the 3rd gens or not... because of the added leverage of the trailer. on the upside that long hitch extension will help take some weight off the front axle theres some discussion of people doing this camper/trailer/hitch extension here http//www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/16396808.cfm getting back to the toy hauler i dont see why it wouldnt be big enough. if your 18 trailer is enough for all your vehicles and an 8 camper is big enough for all of you why wouldnt a 26-28 toy hauler fit both is the extra length of the trailer an issue for the terrain its going to see .
From : tbone
if you have to ask this type of question it is out of your league. hire a pro!! .
From : chuckster
if the speedometer is jumping around as you say the most likely cause is the rear wheel speed sensor located on top of the rear axle. this problem has been seen in here over and over again and replacing this sensor almost always corrects the problem with both the speedometer and the abs light. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving well i havent had any luck. i tried resetting the brake control module and checked all the fuses. i havent took the gauges cover off to look for any shorted wires yet but that is next. i still believe this is some kind of systematic problem and not related to any one bad sending unit. when the problem first started the speedometer would work fine if the brake + anti-lock light was not on. when brake + antilock light was on the speedometer would start jumping around. like i said in my original post this all started with air in my brake lines. im wondering if the brake control module might be bad and somehow causing all these other problems. anybody have any additional thoughts on this weird behaviour chuckster wrote you have to go into the dianostic mode for the abs. the light will brake light will flash and then you look up the problem with a repair manual speedo can be acting up from a dirty sending unit on the trans. or most likely a worn or shorting wire. like big al suggested reset the abs computer by unplugging. .
From : tbone
on sat 29 oct 2005 102519 -0400 roy roy@home.net wrote you can add a heated seat cushion with vvviiibbbrrraaatttiiinnnggg massage on your current truck for much less than the factory heated leather option. check out brookstone or similar stores. not that i know from any experience or anything..... -- ken sss advocate only thing that i can think of thats worse than heated leather seats is vibrating heated leather seats. no wonder all you old farts poke along the streets with a goofy grin on yer face. do ya all keep a tube of ky in the cupholders too vbg denny you folks have to excuse the friggin rabbit. although he knocks you not so manly folks that feel the need for leather heated leather at that. you should understand that it frustration that he does so. given that no seat maker offers a heated leather bench seat for a pick up and given that his furry wide ass is waaaayyyyy too wide to fit in a bucket seat he attacks those who have learned to stay the hell out of the refrigerator and can fit into and enjoy heated leather seats. now what the hell is a rabbit who has been secrtly keeping the machine ranting about a tube of ky gbmfg roy is there an optional cotton tail heater available mac please remove splinters before emailing .
From : budd cochran
uh tom i already apologized for that mistake but the main point was that a slide in fully loaded reduces you tow capacity. hey - i wasnt calling you out on anything budd.... and now that i actually read through the whole thread i can see you were talking about the one posters specific set-up where hes 200lbs. below his gvwr with his slide-in in which case yes he shouldnt have more than 200lbs. tongue weight. makes perfect sense. i thought that might have been what happened. bg nates got a little more truck to work with but hes going to be really close to the maximum. i agree with you... its a dicey set-up. id want to be well ahead of a vehicle like that on the road... unless we were going down-hill in which case id want to be well behind had a boss that had a big slide-in on an early 70s ford half tonner. rode with him once to do some catfishing and that thing was all over the road. i resolved right there and then to not ever ride in that rig again. have you ever become seasick on a flat road and i generally dont get motion sick. budd .
From : budd cochran
hello ootb do you have a plan to make 20 billion usd in a weekend i need some real money. thanks in advance! .. .
From : max dodge
any name wrote chrysler products are self-disabling. there is nothing you need to do. this coming from a webtv idiot. .
From : tbone
none. by design there is supposed to be a small fraction of a inch clearance. this was seen in the mechanical systems as your pedals freeplay. when air is left in the system the air can warm up and expand causing the fingers to ride the bearing. not likely since there is no closed end to allow pressure to build. once the master cylinder is in the retracted position the entire system is open to the reservoir any expansion of the fluid or entrapped air will merely push that volume of fluid back into the reservoir. when the clutch pedal is slightly depressed the piston covers the mc port to prevent pressure from back feeding into the reservoir. .
From : budd cochran
lol been there in that old valiant as well . . .got stuck a couple times. vbg -- budd cochran warning!!! poster still believes that intelligence logic common sense courtesy and religious beliefs are still important in our society and might include them in his posts. uh nate ive driven that kind of tracks with my old valiant. just stay on the higher drier parts. many times they just dont exist. - -- nathan w. collier http//inlinediesel.com http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com http//bighornrefrigeration.com .
From : budd cochran
uh tom i already apologized for that mistake but the main point was that a slide in fully loaded reduces you tow capacity. -- budd cochran doesnt matter. if i couldnt tow more than 2000 pounds with it i would trade it on an f350. - heh... with a 12000lb. gvwr and a tow rating of 13500lbs. combined rating of 21000lbs. that shouldnt be a problem. i have no idea where the 200lb. tongue weight/2000lb. total trailer weight came into the picture. with your 6000lb. trailer a vehicle of 7500lbs. 600lbs. of people/posessions and 3500lbs. of camper that puts your gvwr right about 12000lbs figuring tongue weight of trailer as well. the trailer puts you at 18000lbs. gcvwr which is well within specs. im a little worried about your front axle especially with the added weight of the winch on it... the front axles only rated at 5200lbs. and already has about 4500lbs. on it with your configuration. i also have no idea about the hitch extension given the overhanging camper. id certainly think about getting a class 5 hitch on there dont know if theyre available for the 3rd gens or not... because of the added leverage of the trailer. on the upside that long hitch extension will help take some weight off the front axle theres some discussion of people doing this camper/trailer/hitch extension here http//www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/16396808.cfm getting back to the toy hauler i dont see why it wouldnt be big enough. if your 18 trailer is enough for all your vehicles and an 8 camper is big enough for all of you why wouldnt a 26-28 toy hauler fit both is the extra length of the trailer an issue for the terrain its going to see .
From : budd cochran
well everyone...heres my take on this sitation. nathan really doesnt want anyones recomendation he has already made his mind up and no common sense from the peanut gallery is going to change his mind. i never asked you for recommendations on campers. i clearly listed the setup that i wanted and am only asking for information on how to make it work. -- nathan w. collier http//inlinediesel.com http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com http//bighornrefrigeration.com .
From : max dodge
the more expensive ones tend to either have better displays that give you a text description of the error codes rather than just the number and some offer more diagnostic capability such as displaying the actual output from the sensors but if you dont need these things then save the money and buy the less expensive equipment. the unit in the subject line has books in english spanish and french. three separate books with the explanation of the codes. i always look them up on the web. google the car and the code get much better explanations of what to look for. al .