Ram 2500 vibration

From : svengali82

Q: u-joints perhaps craig c. .

Replies:

From : roy

on 11 aug 2005 084547 -0700 martin funkychateauspam@yahoo.com wrote dallas tx. certain commercial vehicles such as buses are exempt from emissions testing and i believe also certain geographic locations. also vehicles made before certain dates around 1968 or so are exempt. martin makes sense. im out in bft. .

From : svengali82

i took it back to the drive train specialist who checked the axles and drive shaft. he said the u-joints were too tight and he adjusted them. he also balanced the drive shaft. then he replaced the transmission mounts. the vibration is still there. he suggested it might be the torque converter or fan clutch. he suggested i take it to a diesel engine specialist here in vegas which ive been trying to do for a week and a half. hes really busy but may get to it sunday. the vibration is barely noticeable until i get up to about 20 mph and gets progressively worse up to 70 mph. its tolerable at 60 mph. adjustable u joints this is just a thought that has worked on newer trucks. loosen the tranmission mount bolts and the through bolt on the engine mounts. start the truck and drive it 100 feet at a very slow speed. stop gently and back up the same 100 feet put the transmission in neutral set the parking brake and shut off the truck. torque the bolts that you loosened to factory specs and see what happens. roy .

From : greg

found the resistor pack under the glove compartment easily accessable. even if it was hard to get to for $80 bucks id have found a way to do it. ty everyone for the info. mowingy wrote 2002 dakota; 3.9 v6 heater/ac fan motor will only run in high speed. any suggestions are appreciated. i do not know where is is located exactally in that truck but there is a a set of resistors coils that are in a air duct that allows the selection of several speeds. they are known to burn out and it is the first thing to check. they are mounted through the side of duct with a connector on them. -- posted using the http//www.autoforumz.com interface at authors request articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards topic url http//www.autoforumz.com/dodge-heater-ac-fan-ftopict132928.html visit topic url to contact author reg. reqd. report abuse http//www.autoforumz.com/eform.phpp=646717 .

From : ron stitt

first check the tire size against what the factory put on the truck. sounds like you have smaller tires than factory or the tires are a different brand that doesnt measure the same diameter. if they are the same size take the truck to a dealer and have them reprogram the speedo to read properly. if you pull the needle off you will likely damage the drive motor that moves it. it is also possible that someone else was running larger tire on it and had a programmer change the speedo settings to match those tires. -- steve w. we just bought a 97 1500 and the speedometer is 9 mph high at all speeds and the odometer is 2/10 mile slow in 10 miles. im not concerned about the odometer ... it says 9.8 miles in a measured 10 mile stretch ... no big deal. its the speedo that is curious. it says 30 - youre going 21 ... it says 50 - youre going 41 ... etc. is there an adjustment in it to change this does a person have to remove the speedo and reposition the needle ----== posted via feeds.com - unlimited-uncensored-secure usenet ==---- http//www.feeds.com the #1 group service in the world! 120000+ groups ----= east and west-coast server farms - total privacy via encryption =---- .

From : svengali82

we just bought a 97 1500 and the speedometer is 9 mph high at all speeds and the odometer is 2/10 mile slow in 10 miles. im not concerned about the odometer ... it says 9.8 miles in a measured 10 mile stretch ... no big deal. its the speedo that is curious. it says 30 - youre going 21 ... it says 50 - youre going 41 ... etc. is there an adjustment in it to change this does a person have to remove the speedo and reposition the needle .

From : Annonymous

tom lawrence tnloaswpraemnmcien5g@earthlink.net wrote in temporarily. my question is should i assume its the fuel pump or can i have something like a sensor or fuse gone bad turn the ignition on and stick your head under the gas tank - see if you can hear the fuel pump running. if not check the fuel pump relay in the pdc. trigger voltage for the relay comes off of a 10a fuse in the fuse block should be #9. you should read +12v with the ignition on at the fuel pump relay terminal #86. supply voltage for the fuel pump itself comes off of a 20a fuse in the pdc. you should read +12v off of the fuel pump relay terminal #30 at all times. if these check out you can temporarily bypass the relay by jumpering terminal #30 to terminal #87 the terminals are numberd on the bottom of the relay but obviously you want to do all your measuements and jumperings on the relay socket. tom thanks for all the great advice i also did another little trick with testing the fuel pump relay inside the pdc there are several other relays that are exactly the same so i switched another one in place of the fuel pump relay and still no start. i also checked the fuel rail and it was completely dry. so off to the dodge dealer it went and later in the day they called and confermed it was the fuel pump. i offered to go with an aftermarket pump because its half the price. still $579.99 out the door. again thanks to all that answered you are a great help to us in need. barstow ed .

From : thesnoman

anyone here have info on contacting dodge for info and pricing on police package vehicles our local sheriff and police departments are looking to buy new vehicles and would like to at least compare dodge to the quotes they already have. 1-800-chrysler 1-800-247-9753 .

From : steve lusardi

anyone here have info on contacting dodge for info and pricing on police package vehicles our local sheriff and police departments are looking to buy new vehicles and would like to at least compare dodge to the quotes they already have. -- max give a man a match and he is warm for a short while. light him on fire and he is warm for the rest of his life. .

From : fred

now normally i would leave well enough alone and stay out of these arguements....but here i go against better judgement. that to perform that service you still need to open the transmisssion which indicates that in its initial design this level of service was not expected. and again the exact same thing can be said for the dana 44 60 70 80 chrysler 9.25 aam 9.25 10.5 11.5. are you disassembling the axle when you change the fluid no - youre removing a cover. lol boy tom your noise levels are reaching all new highs. as for the axles unless you are under heavy duty schedule b or what is actually a heavily used commercial vehicle you never have to change the fluid in them at least according to the 97 fsm you dont. this would indicate that they are also not designed with this level of maintenance in mind for the average user. well now you are saying that you need to purchase a $600 option just to get what the damn thing needs in the first place lol! if you dont tow you dont need it. if you tow you need it. funny that is not the thought comming from the trans experts in here. according to them you always need it. i havent seen anyone state that you always need em. seems pretty straight-forward to me. and included in that cost is the aux. cooler the receiver wiring harnesses bigger battery etc. oh and by the way - that trailer tow option its a $350 option - not $600. again you make rediculous exaggerations to try and bolster a failed argument. were you there when i ordered my truck that is what i had to pay for it and $250 more than you claim is far from a rediculous exagguration. the only rediculous exagguration being made here is comming from you. sounds cheaper to go with the aftermarket and get better stuff for less. sure - you gonna get all that and get it installed and oh yeah warrantied for less than $350 go for it... if you only want to keep the transmission cool you dont need a receiver wiring harness for it or a bigger battery unless they perform some other function along those lines that the rest of us are unaware of. really perhaps you should look at the allison 1000. that would be the one that wants 12000mile fluid changes right yea and the one with the external filter as well as the drain plug and btw the gm site claims every 30000 but then again you are probably looking at the most extreme schedule again. please explain how you remove the filter without it dripping fluid on your arms. i cant wait to here this magic. well for me - i remove the screws holding the filter in place. i then grab the filter by the one end pulling it down and away. the fluid drains into the catch pan and i dont get any on me. and how do you get the screws out without it dripping fluid on you or do you wait for an hour or so for it to stop dripping. it just adds time and risk to the procedure which further demonstrates that this level of service was never intended with the design of this trans. its amazing how you can deduce that from the construction of the unit - especially when it clearly states in the service manual to change the fluid and filter at regular intervals. it says so for extreme duty applications which you all seem to think that you fit into. the average truck owner is nowhere near a heavy duty schedule b type of use. ok out of a general motors owners manual for a 96 s series severe service/short trip definitions most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles especially important in sub freezing cond most trips include extensive idling defined further as frequent stop and go you operate your vehicle in dusty conditions or off road you tow a trailer if the vehicle is used in an emergency service taxi or commercial application hmmm off the bat even for my old s15 i see 3 that apply and im betting the vast majority could find atleast one of those. i keep going back to this but based on your twisted logic the same can be said for the axles as well. and again only the heavy duty schedule b even mentions the axles. this would also indicate that for the greater percentage of owners changing fluid in them is not required. clearly they were never designed for this level of service. hey you finally got it. for the average owner they are not!!! you have to remove the same amount of fasteners to change their fluid. and... according to dc you have to do it twice as often as the transmission fluid yep - they now spec. out 15000 mile fluid changes on front and rear diffs. perhaps because they are using lower quality components or you are once again using the most extreme schedule. so the only difference between doing a transmission fluid change and a differential fluid change is the three i could swear its now two screws torx screws holding the filter in place. thats it tom.... same gasket issues as the aams now have a reusable g

From : john

as long as you do not need any specialty tools you can easily do it yourself. .