Ram 2500 diesel ignition switch
From : dave com
Q: i put the k&n cold air induction system on my 03 5.9qc 4x. didnt notice a bit of difference except it sounds awesome at wot... that was before i put on 2-chamber flowmaster cat-backs. not much difference there either except for the sound... cant heat the intake anymore. at 5700# its a bit of a load anyhow. on sun 11 jan 2004 212251 -0800 jon jonjene1@yahoo.com wrote just put a k & n air filter in my 5.9l 2002 ram. any ideas if i will see an improvement in gas mileage or other places its amazing to me the truck gets any air at all the way the intake box is setup. thanks for the info. jon .
Replies:
From : tbone
on thu 15 jan 2004 081955 -0500 est srudnicki@webtv.net stephen r. wrote where is the fusebox located on a 2001 dodge dakota sport mine was so obvious i missed it several times! should be on the drivers side of the dash most of the end of the dash is a panel that has a tiny fuses printed on it... mac .
From : tbone
jon rose wrote anyone know where i can get copies of tsbs for my 98 grand caravan will the dealer fork them over if i ask is there and online source thanks jon should be able to pull some of them out of here. http//dodgeram.info/tsb/0otherix.htm jerry .
From : max340
ebay then powells.com then amazon.com after that try the dodge truck special interest sites like dodgetalk.com im looking for a manual for a dodge adventurer. where is a good place to get one thanks in advance. --steve .
From : redneck tookover hell
on 14 jan 2004 173508 gmt mopar440@aol.comnet.org redneck tookover hell wrote i find it remarkable that such a frivolous product can see such wide spread use and continue to sell year after year when its so obviously a ruse. its called marketing you have noticed that since the patent expired they have competition ill start watching reality tv shows when i can vote people off the planet. man oh man. talk about pushing buttons. k&n will always be the ultimate button around here. it really gets your guys panties up in a bunch doesnt it so the guy wants to buy a k&n so the guy believes its gonna work so what why the passion over this subject and you guys jump on me for jumpin on folks. i only jump back at you guys. you guys deserve it. these k&n threads are just more proof of that. you just cant let it go can you major hypocrisy once again. .
From : dave com
if this fuse tests good check for continuity you can also check you should see 12v at pin 2 wire might be dark blue with a yellow stripe of the clutch switch connector. you can also test the starter relay coil all that is well and fine t bone but the original poster wants to look inside the switch to see the problem do you see the problem with that he also posted he cant feel something inside the switch. now im not sure but i think professional help may be required on this one either that or he trains his old lady to take the screwdriver and crawl under the truck to jump the terminals or he could wire in a toggle switch and use that to spin the starter g could also be the neutral safety switch ill start watching reality tv shows when i can vote people off the planet. .
From : tbone
in bed type behind the cab or one where the spare tire is will be about your only choices. either way they are not cheap. you could start here. http//www.transferflow.com/index.html great place to look. ill be ordering one from these guys in the spring. andy .
From : redneck tookover hell
thanks clem. i couldnt hear anything at all when i turned the key. i was listening for solenoid sounds but could hear nothing. the air bag light thing started the same time so i figured they were connected. i saw that there was a tsb related to the light staying on but havent had time to retrieve it yet. regards jon this sounds like a starter problem actually. when it does crank after 2 or 3 times does it crank normally albeit slower since it has been very cold out lately the contacts in the starter wear out and cause this exact condition. it does absolutely nothing except for a very quiet click when you turn the key. eventually it catches and cranks. my 94 kept doing this and getting worse... by the time i finally changed the starter it was taking like 40 - 50 tries to get it to turn over. the contacts can be replaced if you dont mind tearing your starter apart. new starters are not cheap. if you can find a rebuild shop itd be much cheaper to have them fix it. good luck. weve had some frigid cold temperatures in eastern pennsylvania lately im really starting to hate winter and my 98 grand caravan has been getting a bit balky lately. the engine doesnt start with the first turn of the key in the morning it doesnt do anything at all. usually the engine turns on the second or third try and starts right up. also the air bag light is staying on for 8-10 seconds. it usually is only on for a second or two. is this likely a problem with the ignition switch battery tia jon .
From : tbone
this van is a lot newer than mine but they did have a tsb about the rear wiper motor blowing the fuse. the same fuse that runs the airbag system. but if it is that fuse it wouldnt effect your starter like that. no clicks at all perhaps it is your ignition switch gosh.. i was going to be surprised that a new van like that might have a bad ignition switch or starter... but i suppose 1998 is 6 years ago! waaaah! thanks clem. i couldnt hear anything at all when i turned the key. i was listening for solenoid sounds but could hear nothing. the air bag light thing started the same time so i figured they were connected. i saw that there was a tsb related to the light staying on but havent had time to retrieve it yet. regards jon this sounds like a starter problem actually. when it does crank after 2 or 3 times does it crank normally albeit slower since it has been very cold out lately the contacts in the starter wear out and cause this exact condition. it does absolutely nothing except for a very quiet click when you turn the key. eventually it catches and cranks.
From : tbone
azwiley1 wrote its oh so nice to see that something just never change! well hello larry .................... looks like they can stop calling you a snow bird out there now. jerry .
From : bryan swadener
my truck is a 1998 dakota 5.2 4x4. i got it fixed. i guess the heater core was clogged. all i did is unplug the in and the out of the heater core then took my garden hose and ran water through backwards. a good ammount of stuff came out and now the heat works great. it was no big deal anyway since i live in az just bugged me more than anything. thanks -dave .
From : tbone
it must be your k$n air filter - what color is the smoke -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving i have a dakota 5.2 v8 that normally doesnt use oil. but if you get in a lot of stop and go traffic it will start smoking real bad. can anyone tell me what is wrong .
From : roy
poster wants to look inside the switch to see the problem do you see the problem with that yes and ignored it since afaik the switch is not rebuildable. ya cant ignore the question even if you believe the problem to be elsewhere. if that is his belief then he can jump directly to the test of it at the clutch position switch that you copied above. id bet on the problem being here unless...... that weird feeling he has in the ignition switch is the problem. while i agree for the most part on your diagnostic the fact that he can crank the truck by shorting the starter harness says that the problem is more likely the ignition switch clutch interlock which is most easily tested by simply jumping it out since not everyone has a multimeter or starter relay. it may even be the fuse but....when a fuse goes bad you have other problems. however if his truck acts normally in that all accessories cut out when he hits the start position of his ignition switch the relay is probably behaving ok. and after all that... it could just be corrosion on a battery terminal or ground terminal. along that line the 94 battery cable has a boot that goes over the cable lug and termial or post at the starter that is supposed to have a drain hole. it usually plugs and ya get a bunch of corrosion and a no start. great detail but forgot the little things that will stymie the diagnostic as well as the truck. yup he sure can copy the hell out of that bookg are ya just board roy -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : tbone
poster wants to look inside the switch to see the problem do you see the problem with that yes and ignored it since afaik the switch is not rebuildable. ya cant ignore the question even if you believe the problem to be elsewhere. if that is his belief then he can jump directly to the test of it at the clutch position switch that you copied above. id bet on the problem being here unless...... that weird feeling he has in the ignition switch is the problem. while i agree for the most part on your diagnostic the fact that he can crank the truck by shorting the starter harness says that the problem is more likely the ignition switch clutch interlock which is most easily tested by simply jumping it out since not everyone has a multimeter or starter relay. it may even be the fuse but....when a fuse goes bad you have other problems. however if his truck acts normally in that all accessories cut out when he hits the start position of his ignition switch the relay is probably behaving ok. and after all that... it could just be corrosion on a battery terminal or ground terminal. along that line the 94 battery cable has a boot that goes over the cable lug and termial or post at the starter that is supposed to have a drain hole. it usually plugs and ya get a bunch of corrosion and a no start. great detail but forgot the little things that will stymie the diagnostic as well as the truck. yup he sure can copy the hell out of that bookg are ya just board roy it is bored my little bookworm.bg to answer your question yes also cold it hasnt been above 5 degrees all day. roy .
From : tbone
poster wants to look inside the switch to see the problem do you see the problem with that yes and ignored it since afaik the switch is not rebuildable. ya cant ignore the question even if you believe the problem to be elsewhere. if that is his belief then he can jump directly to the test of it at the clutch position switch that you copied above. id bet on the problem being here unless...... that weird feeling he has in the ignition switch is the problem. while i agree for the most part on your diagnostic the fact that he can crank the truck by shorting the starter harness says that the problem is more likely the ignition switch clutch interlock which is most easily tested by simply jumping it out since not everyone has a multimeter or starter relay. it may even be the fuse but....when a fuse goes bad you have other problems. however if his truck acts normally in that all accessories cut out when he hits the start position of his ignition switch the relay is probably behaving ok. and after all that... it could just be corrosion on a battery terminal or ground terminal. along that line the 94 battery cable has a boot that goes over the cable lug and termial or post at the starter that is supposed to have a drain hole. it usually plugs and ya get a bunch of corrosion and a no start. great detail but forgot the little things that will stymie the diagnostic as well as the truck. yup he sure can copy the hell out of that bookg are ya just board roy it is bored my little bookworm.bg lol i know i just wasnt paying attention. spending too much time in the woodworking group. as far as being a book worm not necessary with this type of stuff. just a quick look at the wiring diagram for the color code and make sure that there were no unexpected connections like that dimmer fuse thing that got me the last time. to answer your question yes also cold it hasnt been above 5 degrees all day. i know i live on the east coast too and now it is snowing here as well. it figures that it would do this shit right when im trying to move. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : roy
interesting links. thanks for the post. i note that these tests neither support nor condemn k&n. http//www.bolhuijo.com/airflowtest/ http//www.ibmwr.org/otech/airfilter.html http//www.ibmwr.org/ktech/dyno/index.shtml http//www.bmwe34.net/e34main/upgrade/airfilter.htm http//az.pca.org/motorpool/articles/technicalpotpourriandproduct.htm well that settles everything another self styled usenet expert. nothing you have posted proves a fucking thing. its just another opinion. the fact that k&n filters are so poor should be easy to prove why not provide a link to an actual test rather than just saying dyno testing a few years back proved no gain with the k+n ive followed these ridiculous threads for years and have yet to see anybody post anything other than opinions which is fine but hardly proves anything. if that makes me a stupid fuck then so be it. cbhvac stephenaddressscfrewedonpurpose@carolinabreezehvac.com wrote in . going to be interesting what the studies reveal in about 5 years. what that youre an idiot. k&n had been in business since 1969 and are well respected except by the experts on usenet. well....hell...here we go again... on the internet everyone is an expert on something.....i guess you are an expert at calling people idiots. i guess i am an expert at calling you a stupid fuck #300 #2 for 2004..google that...and you will understand and be an expert on the sf list... now..i ran k+n garbage on a couple of rides...one was a 1150 kawasaki and after we rebuilt it twice due to ring failure we went back per the factory reps advice to paper filters and its got a tad over 45000 on it since that time.. i ran k+n on my 426 with eight...count em...eight stacks fi and more hp than you prob have combined in your driveway. dyno testing a few years back proved no gain with the k+n without a filter or with a paper filter...no loss either with the paper. i ran one on my firebird when it was cool to have that decal and filter in the car....after 3 months in the deserts of ca the tb was caked with dust...and a set of rings was due.. now...all i can say is this.. k+n wont publically test the filter because it will fail. it is all marketing hype and hype is nothing in the real world. you think you have something that makes you feel faster or makes you feel good cause its in there...fine...but dont come in here talking about usenet experts...the average expert is a kid in a honda that swears his japanese decal on the window makes 20hp and calls us racist when we say hes driving a ricer..of course..you know those coffee can mufflers make up to 200hp....right k+n nothing but a filter that does a piss poor job with a great marketing campaign and a sucker born every minute. i think i am gonna run right out and buy me a fart tip muffler a k+n and some cool decals for the service vans.....i ought to be able to go bust a vette pulling the drag car to an event after that... .
From : tbone
and after all that... it could just be corrosion on a battery terminal or ground terminal. if that were the case then shorting the solenoid would not work either although there could be corosion on the solenoid terminal. i didnt think of that good call max. not necessarily. ive personally seen a ram that would not start with the ignition switch but would start by jumpering the starter relay terminals. it was a bad engine ground causing this. some probing with a dmm/vom or even a test lamp should find the problem. start at one end and work your way to the other til you see where youre losing it. bryan .
From : tom lawrence
ill bet that nascar racers are required to use paper. i cant be sure though as the nascar rule book is available to nascar members only. humm...no..not really. fiberglass is allowed but only during qualification. wonder why paper is allowed could it just be that during the length of a run like that it reduces cost engine wear and possible engine failure nah....of course not..its to choke em all down right i have no idea why they wont do a public dyno test i guess they feel they dont have to prove their product in such a way. you know those 800 hp winston cup now nextel cup engines those guys dont use k$n filters just good old fashioned paper ones its interesting that k$n is the only filter made for the injection system on dirt sprint cars but there is a company called outerwear that makes a filter that fits over the k$n setup. you also see the outerwear filters on dirt late models running k$n filters apparently using the k$n filter is causing so much extra suction another filter is required i also find it interesting that k$n sponsors a dragracing fuel funny car that uses no air filters at all. in fact i have never seen even a k$n oil filter on any fuel engine. they all use those worthless fram hp series filters. you will also find those worthless fram hp oil filters on most every world of outlaws sprint car engine ill start watching reality tv shows when i can vote people off the planet. .
From : roy
test at the starter solenoid to see if its hot in the start position. you may have a bad solenoid. the contacts may be able to be replaced way cheaper the new solenoid. my ram up at the airport. the trucks a 1994 5.9l cummins standard trans. the key will go all the way to start dash lights up and wait to startetc. come on and go out but will not engage the starter. have to craw under the truck and short the starter to fire up the truck.. is there a way to pull the switch out to see if its the tumbular or have to replace the whole thing thanks; dave --- outgoing mail is certified virus free. checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.560 / virus database 352 - release date 1/8/2004 .
From : tbone
on thu 15 jan 2004 144239 gmt tom lawrence tnloaswpraemnmcien5g@earthlink.net wrote shall we hit him with the 2 % vs 3 % thing wait a minute... donning flak jacket and steel pot helmet okay - all set youre out of date old timer.. its body armor and kevlar helmet now.. *g* mac .
From : tom lawrence
it should be able to tow that but the towing capacity really depends on the axle ratio the one piece of information that you dont have. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving i have a 98 dakota manual trans 4x4 5.2 9 inch limmited slip diff not sure on the gearing and about 100k miles on it. what is a safe weight to tow i am helping a friend move from tucson to vegas and i want to know if is safe for me to pull his truck along with his stuff on a trailer. i am figuring his truck weighs about 3000 86 toy pre-runner with no bed and all fiberglass frenders a uhaul car trailer is about 1000 just a guessand about 2000lbs of his stuff maybe. would i be better off having him follow or would it be ok to tow that much. i heard some dakotas can tow 6900lbs but that is probley the 2x4 with the 5.9. thanks for any help -dave .
From : dick puter413atyahoo com
you might have a hard one to find.... http//www.chiltonsonline.com/ the best part is most of the older dodge are the same for the most part... 70 - 79 motors are basically the same... truck bodies are the same for many years but the grill is different... nice of mopar to keep using what work eh! mopar man im looking for a manual for a dodge adventurer. where is a good place to get one thanks in advance. --steve .
From : tom lawrence
if that was the problem then shorting the leads would have no effect. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving test at the starter solenoid to see if its hot in the start position. you may have a bad solenoid. the contacts may be able to be replaced way cheaper the new solenoid. my ram up at the airport. the trucks a 1994 5.9l cummins standard trans. the key will go all the way to start dash lights up and wait to startetc. come on and go out but will not engage the starter. have to craw under the truck and short the starter to fire up the truck.. is there a way to pull the switch out to see if its the tumbular or have to replace the whole thing thanks; dave --- outgoing mail is certified virus free. checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.560 / virus database 352 - release date 1/8/2004 .
From : tom lawrence
on 14 jan 2004 182649 gmt mopar440@aol.comnet.org redneck tookover hell wrote if this fuse tests good check for continuity you can also check you should see 12v at pin 2 wire might be dark blue with a yellow stripe of the clutch switch connector. you can also test the starter relay coil all that is well and fine t bone but the original poster wants to look inside the switch to see the problem do you see the problem with that he also posted he cant feel something inside the switch. now im not sure but i think professional help may be required on this one either that or he trains his old lady to take the screwdriver and crawl under the truck to jump the terminals or he could wire in a toggle switch and use that to spin the starter g could also be the neutral safety switch you guys are all way beyond me.... i didnt even know a cummins had an ignition system! maybe he got moisture in his distributer and has wet points mac .
From : mac davis
lol it still uses the same ignition switch although it may be better named the run switch with a diesel. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving on 14 jan 2004 182649 gmt mopar440@aol.comnet.org redneck tookover hell wrote if this fuse tests good check for continuity you can also check you should see 12v at pin 2 wire might be dark blue with a yellow stripe of the clutch switch connector. you can also test the starter relay coil all that is well and fine t bone but the original poster wants to look inside the switch to see the problem do you see the problem with that he also posted he cant feel something inside the switch. now im not sure but i think professional help may be required on this one either that or he trains his old lady to take the screwdriver and crawl under the truck to jump the terminals or he could wire in a toggle switch and use that to spin the starter g could also be the neutral safety switch you guys are all way beyond me.... i didnt even know a cummins had an ignition system! maybe he got moisture in his distributer and has wet points mac .
From : tbone
does insulting me help prove your point since this has denigrated into a flame war right back at ya. go fuck yourself. cbhvac stephenaddressscfrewedonpurpose@carolinabreezehvac.com wrote in you call this proof dont make me laugh. no...you moron..its not proof but seeing as how it could be done and done simply... god..you are a bigger sf than i first gave you credit for....i must say i am sorry for ever doubting that you could exceed the limits that i had set aside in my head that you could reach. you have far and away exceeded that. just so you know i got curious last night and googled the issue...and this has been a debate in many a ng for years. if you look it over and look hard most people that understand whats going on with one outnumber you. cbhvac stephenaddressscfrewedonpurpose@carolinabreezehvac.com wrote in if you want to believe k&n are lying thats your prerogative. you have given no proof to that effect. yes i do own a k&n filter. what proof do you want the fact that one thing i am an expert on is filtration and air movement and the fact that a pleated paper filter is a better filter and can flow just as much air that your engine will need better than a k+n ok..you figure it out...take your paper filter poke it full of holes and soak it in oil...no..wait...its the same effect as taking cotton guaze putting it between a couple of steel mesh screens and oiling it. hate to say it but holes in a filter do not filter and that oil isnt gonna reach out and grab anything that does not hit it and come in direct contact with it. a true test of the filtration abilities would be extremely simple..two airboxes hooked up to another filter pleated paper of course since its going to filter the air better than the k+n under wot flow conditions with the first filter box completely sealed and the entire assembly made of a clear plastic...like lexan or the like...and say....2lbs of fine dust like you encounter on the hiway slowly added at the intake... weigh the filters before and after and then you would see.. my money would go to the pleated paper....and you would lose. .
From : tom lawrence
i think i would question why the heater core was clogged in the first place on a 5 year old truck. i hope you flushed the entire system when you replaced the water pump and or now the heater core and added the correct coolant not just water. ray my truck is a 1998 dakota 5.2 4x4. i got it fixed. i guess the heater core was clogged. all i did is unplug the in and the out of the heater core then took my garden hose and ran water through backwards. a good ammount of stuff came out and now the heat works great. it was no big deal anyway since i live in az just bugged me more than anything. thanks -dave .
From : tbone
i agree. i know the way the regulars behave here its like a mob mentality. i knew what i was in for when this whole thing started. on thu 15 jan 2004 174702 gmt rick blaine fernjames-nospam@shaw.ca wrote does insulting me help prove your point since this has denigrated into a flame war right back at ya. go fuck yourself. rick; you will find that it does not take much to start a flame war around here. in the case of k&n it actually takes nothing. this is a major issue to the regulars around here. i suppose you could say that they just have so much love in them for their fellow dodge people that they just care too much. of course if you said that you would be wrong but never the less you could say that. the truth is that you should spend your money however you want to. after all you earned it. the regulars here like to complain about things like wanna be moderators and then turn around and tell you pretty much demand how to spend your money what to do with your car/truck etc.. then they like to complain about the hypocrisy that they see. they preach freedom of expression but shit all over anyone that believes differently. yes what you have stumbled onto is the cyber world equivalent of the twilight zone. you can get mad and go away or you can see the place for what it is and sit back and have some fun. ive been here for about four or five years now man how time passes when your havin fun huh guys and it really can be fun. sit back and feed the animals just dont get your fingers too close to the cages. dont worry about it getting too far out of hand it has to come to a stop someday. look at these people man. while several have managed to spawn new young aadt regulars it will never last. these type of people eat their young. cbhvac stephenaddressscfrewedonpurpose@carolinabreezehvac.com wrote in you call this proof dont make me laugh. no...you moron..its not proof but seeing as how it could be done and done simply... god..you are a bigger sf than i first gave you credit for....i must say i am sorry for ever doubting that you could exceed the limits that i had set aside in my head that you could reach. you have far and away exceeded that. just so you know i got curious last night and googled the issue...and this has been a debate in many a ng for years. if you look it over and look hard most people that understand whats going on with one outnumber you. cbhvac stephenaddressscfrewedonpurpose@carolinabreezehvac.com wrote in if you want to believe k&n are lying thats your prerogative. you have given no proof to that effect. yes i do own a k&n filter. what proof do you want the fact that one thing i am an expert on is filtration and air movement and the fact that a pleated paper filter is a better filter and can flow just as much air that your engine will need better than a k+n ok..you figure it out...take your paper filter poke it full of holes and soak it in oil...no..wait...its the same effect as taking cotton guaze putting it between a couple of steel mesh screens and oiling it. hate to say it but holes in a filter do not filter and that oil isnt gonna reach out and grab anything that does not hit it and come in direct contact with it. a true test of the filtration abilities would be extremely simple..two airboxes hooked up to another filter pleated paper of course since its going to filter the air better than the k+n under wot flow conditions with the first filter box completely sealed and the entire assembly made of a clear plastic...like lexan or the like...and say....2lbs of fine dust like you encounter on the hiway slowly added at the intake... weigh the filters before and after and then you would see.. my money would go to the pleated paper....and you would lose. .
From : max340
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From : max340
its oh so nice to see that something just never change! .
From : dave com
hello. i recently purchased a 97 dodge cummins truck. the truck runs great and i love it. originally the transmission fluid coupling seemed a little loose to me. im told this is because the transmission is originally designed for a gasoline engine and not a diesel. however ive noticed when initially starting to pull a heavy load or if my tires are caught in a rut in the bush etc the truck doesnt seem to have much power to get moving. the rpm goes to only about 1400-1500 and sounds much like a snowmobile engine bogging down on a very warm day. once while stuck in a rut in the bush i had to put it in 4-low to get out i shouldnt of had to do this..not a bad rut. once the truck gets moving it seems ok. do i have a problem here or is this normal if not is there some sort of adjustment i should be looking at thanks in advance for any responses given. brian a irwin sault ste marie on can. how many miles on it what does it rev to in neutral should be 2500-3000. you could have a lift pump gone and if thats the case your injector pump may not be far behind. or it could be a loose or torn hose into the turbo. or as greg suggested a fuel filter. or you may have some bad or gelled fuel. stick a fuel pressure gauge on it should be more than 6 at idle and that is marginal. as you recently bought it is there still a dealer warranty on it roy .
From : tom lawrence
scott... thank you. john john c johnc@johnc.com wrote in if the problem is a loose gas and the cap is secured correctly will the check engine light turn off or must it be reset had this happen on a 00 durango. took it in and they said it should correct itself in about 4 restarts supposedly the amounted needed for the computer to flush out certain codes. or something like that. scott .
From : tom lawrence
how do you disconnect the speedometer thanks keith got a lease vehicle that one of us might buy later on you can disconnect the speedometer simply... you remove the dash and take it out. now keep in mind that when you turn the vehicle in or take it in for warranty work that the speedometer can say zero and they can pull up the actual mileage on it....and then what do you do yes..there is a way to stop the odometer...its call park the damn truck. oh...and thats fraud...and its illegal. i would hate to think that you leased a slightly used truck thinking it was new....that would be a shame would it not think about that you damn thief. .