Proper Tire pressure
From : audit2
Q: on wed 12 sep 2007 012849 gmt scott hendryx scott.hendryx.clothes@sbcglobal.net wrote i have a ram 1500 with 275/60 r20 tires. these are after-market tires so reading the door jam will not work. bought it used. i think max air pressure is 80* anyone know about what pressure these should carry thanks linda read the side wall of the tires theyll tell you the proper pressure. you need to carry a lot of pressure in those kinds of tire/rim combos too to minimize the chance of impact damge to rim with limited sidewall between tread and rim. ----------------- thesnoman.com .
Replies:
From : roy
on wed 12 sep 2007 140733 -0400 roy roy@home.net wrote well tom the idiot says your theory is correct. guess that will make your day!bfg a day in this ng would not be complete without a apperance of a troll such as roy. he is such a child! we can all only hope he will grow up one day. ----------------- thesnoman.com .
From : roy
on sep 13 724am john carrington wb2...@stny.rr.com wrote i have a photo of my grandfathers car circa 1930. do you know a site or group where i may upload a .jpg file to get the vehicle identified tia john why not post it here for a starter bob az .
From : roy
yamaha700@shaw.ca wrote i have a 06 dakota quad cab slt 4x4 with 4.7l engine with 3.55 limited slip rearend. whenever the truck is warmed up there is a very noticeable clunk whenever the truck is shifted into neutral or park from any gear any ideas also when going into reverse there is a slight clunk and then a whirring type whine. about 60-80 km/h there is a howling noise comes and goes with throttle position coasting- howl stops ease on the gas howl comes back. the truck was in at the dealer and they reprogrammed the transmission the dealer said that the noiseclunking and reverse engagement are normal! they said the howling is tire noise but yet the howling doesnt change with changes in road surface. should i get a 2nd opinion from a driveline shop or qustion the dealer more any ideas or answers are appreciated!! those are usually symptoms of a bad differential. park the truck on a flat surface. put it in neutral and set the parking brake. now put it in park. crawl under the truck and grab the drive shaft. try and turn it with your hand. differential end play is measured in thousands of an inch. if you can move the drive shaft a noticable amount the diff is toast. -- ..bob 2006 fxdi hot rod 2001 dodge dakota qc 5.9/4x4/3.92 1966 mustang coupe - daily driver 1965 ffr cobra - 427w efi damn fast. .
From : chris thompson
----------------- theidiotman.com well roy youre gonna have to lighten up on your ole buddy or he wont spring for the castles when you come to ohio. i can take you to ruths diner but the meatloaf there dont compare to a wc. ya know he really sucks!! how was the trip north this time not bad. lost a hour in del. due to line painting. but it was a good trip. back down next month after we get everything packed. did you get the house sold yet nope. have had a bunch of offers but all are contingent on the buyer selling their house. im not going that route. to by a house around here with the mortgage industry soo screwed up you need to have a credit rateing of around 680 or better and have a 20% down payment. so to buy a house for $400k you must come up with a $80k down payment. most folks dont have that kind of cash laying around it is in the equity of the house they are in. so they have to sell their home to get it. bottom line things are kinda paralyzed unless the home your selling is listed for $250k or under. it is what it is. we are packing things up and will be outa here by mid oct. things will turn around eventually. patience is a virtue.... or so they say. yup i have a lot of it. oh i decided to keep the ar and am selling the sig 9mm and the walther ppks you suck!! vbg cmon you have enough firepower over there.vbg denny roy roy .
From : denny
on thu 13 sep 2007 075933 -0400 roy roy@home.net wrote no magnet mount for the roof. mine is located on the bed. i physically turned it completely off and then back on. is it a magnet mount that is on the bed a magnet could effect the accuracy of the compass display not the display nature of it. depends on how it reacts. no it really doesnt. stick to thing you know which is not much and stop trying to send people on wild goose chases well i do know about assholes and you are by far the biggest ive come accross in a long time. oh any info i give wont get sombody hurt can you say the same note the idiot will ignore this question. rather than do a bunch of c&p id direct your attention and everybody elses to heatwaves post in the proper tire pressure thread for examples of you not knowing wtf you are talking about. ok the group is getting slow so ill bite. what exactly did he say in the above mentioned thread that is dangerous or could in any way get somebody killed seeing as you decided you want a bit of this as well pay attention. i directed the idiot to heatwaves post to point out a couple of examples of the idiot not knowing wtf he was talking about. it is really pretty easy tom. for the second part of your question i did not say he posted dangerous info in this thread. what i said and asked at the same time is ill repeat it for ya in relevant part oh any info i give wont get sombody hurt can you say the same he has in the past posted dangerous info at a number of ngs. im sure even you noticed he did not answer the question. now put down your pom poms.g . 222 339097 1189735426.384769.3650@g4g2000hsf.googlegroups.com i have a 06 dakota quad cab slt 4x4 with 4.7l engine with 3.55 limited slip rearend. whenever the truck is warmed up there is a very noticeable clunk whenever the truck is shifted into neutral or park from any gear any ideas also when going into reverse there is a slight clunk and then a whirring type whine. about 60-80 km/h there is a howling noise comes and goes with throttle position coasting- howl stops ease on the gas howl comes back. the truck was in at the dealer and they reprogrammed the transmission the dealer said that the noiseclunking and reverse engagement are normal! they said the howling is tire noise but yet the howling doesnt change with changes in road surface. should i get a 2nd opinion from a driveline shop or qustion the dealer more any ideas or answers are appreciated!! .
From : denny
on wed 12 sep 2007 071955 -0400 roy roy@home.net wrote major lane closures sheduled for the w.wilson bridge the rest of this week. expect major delays if you are trveling i-95 through the washington d.c. area. beekeep looks like i picked the right time to make the trip. not a problem all the way to ma. looks like the trip back to fl will be around oct 16th. probably will be a night trip through there. speaking of that what time does the rush start in the morning should i figure on being into va. by 5am or earlier roy i havent driven in rush hour traffic in 15 years but i would think that getting through before 500 am would be wise. beekeep .
From : beryl
by turning it off and on do you mean changing the display mode from temp/compass to no display if so that wont do anything but change what the overhead console is displaying; it doesnt reset any sensor. what kind of unreadable displays did you ever see sc looks like 5c or oc on the overhead display those are codes for short circuit and open circuit - indicating either the thermistor is out of range doubtful if youre not driving in the middle east or there is a problem else where in the outside temperature sensing circuit. as roy intimated a magnetic mount on the roof of the cab can really screw things up. the manual has a specific method of degaussing the roof it thats the case. on my way back from a long trip i noticed the digital compass / temperature readout was freaking out. display was randomly making unreadable displays. i turned it off and back on and still the same. turned it off again for awhile and back on again. stayed normal for awhile but then started again. was wondering if anyone else had the same problem and what was the fix or if anyone has any ideas of why it is doing it all of a sudden. i have a 96 1500 ram 5.2l extended cab 4x4 slt sport model with 145000 miles. thanks t .
From : roy
while the belt should be replaced the squeaking is probably coming from the idler pulley or the tensioner pulley. since the belt has to be removed to replace either one i would check to see where the noise is coming from before replacing the belt so that you can also get the replacement parts and do it all at the same time. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving id like to replace the belt on my 01 ram v6 and was wondering if there are any problems or pitfalls i should know about before doing so. its squeaking a bit on cold starts and looks like it may be the original with 90k on it. thanks. .
From : roy
skippy .bob noneofyourbusiness@goaway.net wrote .... the sidewall will tell you max pressure only. doesnt tell you normal operating pressure. .... real good advice imo. see punkin .bob is right. even skippy says so. you still inflating your tires to the 65psi max because thats whats stamped on the sidewalls .
From : roy
ahhh.... days gone by from the 70s count me in. byob suddenly without warning mac davis exclaimed 9/12/2007 1120 pm on wed 12 sep 2007 202508 +0930 jmc nogroupsspam@nojodibody.homeus wrote does that mean youre gonna bake a bunch of chocolate chip cookies and mail them to everybody in the group vbg denny uh.... no. pot brownies then mac well... in theory i could do the brownie part. from the scent when the wind is right i could get the herbs from the neighbors... but youd have to come here to get em. jmc party at js house!!!!!!!!!!!!! this is gonna be fun!! denny .
From : denny
on wed 12 sep 2007 193204 -0400 ann babes at netzero.net wrote on my way back from a long trip i noticed the digital compass / temperature readout was freaking out. display was randomly making unreadable displays. i turned it off and back on and still the same. turned it off again for awhile and back on again. stayed normal for awhile but then started again. was wondering if anyone else had the same problem and what was the fix or if anyone has any ideas of why it is doing it all of a sudden. i have a 96 1500 ram 5.2l extended cab 4x4 slt sport model with 145000 miles. thanks t i would suggest that you pull display and carefully reseat connector to it. the operate at extremely low current and voltage and less than perfect contacts can cause problems. it is either that or there is a crack in ribbon cable to display that is intermittant or the display itself has a crack in a trace internally the opens and closes with tempature and vibration. ----------------- thesnoman.com .
From : snoman
bigbaby@snoman.com says... a day in this ng would not be complete without a apperance of a troll such as roy. he is such a child! we can all only hope he will grow up one day. ----------------- thecrybaby.com weve heard this shit from you how many times now i lost count... ----------------------------------- snojob follies sbj dumb brake question http//tinyurl.com/2ya3wo sbj front wheel bearings-2000 blazer http//tinyurl.com/2j44zv sbj snoball defense system v1.01 http//tinyurl.com/2okyfx ----------------------------------- if you werent so damn dense you would be too embarrassed and ashamed to post anymore. .
From : snoman
on wed 12 sep 2007 002810 -0400 tom lawrence tnooms4p8a8m@meimnbgaarlqlmoawield.com wrote 6.5 of sidewall isnt exactly limited.... in fact its barely less sidewall then on a stock 16 tire from earlier years my 95 3500 came stock with 215/85r16s which had 7.1 of sidewall on a much heavier vehicle. in theory you are correct but in pratice the average clearnace in less because of normal tire deflection underload and is likley around 5.5 inches or a bit less which is not much for a big heavy tire on a big heavy vehicle and a unexpected chuck hole. wheel rim companies have got to love them because they get to still extra wheel from raod damage that they would not sell otherwise. 60s are kinda border line tires in this regard. well tom the idiot says your theory is correct. guess that will make your day!bfg .
From : roy
hello all i am by no means a mechanic however i would like some input before i go to a mechanic to get my truck checked out. i am not totally convinced that my issue is 100% a transmission issue however signs do point to the area. when accelerating starting at approximately 40 mph and 1500-3000 rpm i hear a pretty pronounced rattling kinda like a can with a couple of bolts shaken... as best i can tell it seems to be coming from the middle left area under the truck most likely close to the tranny. the noise has gotten a bit worse over the last couple of weeks. it seems i can avoide the noise completely by traveling at less than 50 mph on a slight incline and i dont seem to hear anything when accelerating on a decline. i dont hear the rattle while driving the back roads only when on the freeway. the noise seems happen mostly when more force is needed to move the truck on an incline at 40 ++ mph and higher rpm. driving in od seems to reduce the noise a bit as well. the truck shifts just fine and im not noticing any performance degradation however i am very concerned about the noise. also to note is that the rear diff seems to be leaking more than usual i am planning on topping it off to see if that helps since i cant be 100% certain that the noise is coming from the middle left might be coming from the rear diff i doubt it though. any inputs would be greatly appreciated.. could be that if there is a heat shield at the cat or elsewhere it has become loose. .
From : bob
for those of you whove been around for a while you might remember that the check engine light on my 2001 dakota has been on for a couple of years complaining of a small evaporative emissions leak. replaced the gas cap to no avail and ignored it until now. per another recent post i had the truck in to replace a manifold gasket only to find that the exhaust manifold itself was warped. that was machined and replaced the 02 sensor also replaced and in the same area the mechanic found my leak - a 1 section of hose that had cracked through. must have been on the underside cause i inspected with my non-mechanic eyes that stuff a while back. so now for the first time in ages the light is off. and when i open the gas cap it goes phsssst! again. life is good. my truck is happy. im happy! how pathetic is that jmc .
From : tom lawrence
major lane closures sheduled for the w.wilson bridge the rest of this week. expect major delays if you are trveling i-95 through the washington d.c. area. beekeep .
From : snoman
yes tom did point that out but the tech was very specific and felt it was a wiring short problem and pointed out places too look. i went with the testing on the injectors with tom and just did a quick visual test of the wiring harness and at the time i was not sure what i was looking for. it seems tom lawrence gave you about the same advice - find a problem in the wiring harness. oh well i guess advice is worth what you pay for it. .
From : scott hendryx
it seems tom lawrence gave you about the same advice - find a problem in the wiring harness. oh well i guess advice is worth what you pay for it. i still could not find the problems so i went to justanswerdotcom and a dodge tech led me right to it. and how much did it cost you 9 bucks fixed the problem. i gave him another 9 because he was right on the money. total $18.00 i had the right to not pay anything if the answer did not pan out or i was unsatisfied. after i conversed with him it took me about 15 min. to troubleshoot and fix the problem. hell the garage that had my truck charged me 25 to diagnose that i blew a fuse and they didnt fix squat except change the fuse. all in all a good experience with the site. .