Problems with 1998 Grand Voyager Check Engine Light - The saga continues

From : david little

Q: great read i dont see in this oil report that they tested amsoil on the deisels thats odd maybe the results were not in there favor the results on everything elese is not really a big deal. most importantly i think a half synthetic has only half the protection i am looking for. oil burns and turns to carbon at a certin temp. i would rather have a full synthetic that can all withstand twice the temp. regular oil can. just in case i loose a hose or just for my turbos sake. click on the link below for the test results. http//www.royalpurple.com/rptech/ncsu021112.pdf .

Replies:

From : cloaked

hey i am in so. cal also and it is way hot lol but sierously if you dont have a leak it is probably your low pressure switch near the accumulator here in the banning beaumont area i have seen allstar dodge replace several while getting my oil changed. other wise it probably sprung a leak would have to look at the temp and the preasure and do a superheat formula. good luck. if you are in banning you ought to be driving the extra 15 miles or so to crystal.... but... superheat is not needed in the trucks...its already been figured and with variable speed compressors evap fans and the diffrence in air flow over the condensor you wont get the same numbers twice. i am having the exact same problem with my 98 ram. i used the gauges and it shows that there is pressure. when the ac kicks on the gauge drops way down and then the clutch kicks off and the pressure goes back up. i cant figure out the problem. any help oh please it is so hot in socal. patrick usually when the clutch cycles quickly it is a sign the system is low on freon. did you actually have a set of gauges on the high and low side to check the pressures if the pressures are ok and the clutch kicks out quickly you may have a pressure switch going bad. denny a question for the group re a/c; vehicle is a 99 1500 qc w/ 5.9 the a/c stopped blowing cold. line pressure measures ok. the only visual symptom i can see is the a/c compressor clutch cycles on then off very rapidly when the a/c is switched to max a/c. thinking it was the relay i swapped that out but the rapid on/off cycling continues any suggestions before i go to dealer and bend over tia doug .

From : sps 700

back in the days of carbs we used to pour water down the carb to get rid of carbon build up. especially when we were going to rebuild the engine. also put a couple quarts of atf in the crankcase and ran it about 100 miles. wouldnt believe how clean the engine was when we tore it down after this. the o2 sensor not unless theres lead or manganese in the atf - as for the cat im sure perpetually burning a lot of oil would carbon it up and clog it but any atf and carbon deposits caused by this should burn back off once hes done. not that im recommending it- i have my doubts that atf is going to do much to clean the chambers... but i dont think it would hurt the cat and definitely not the o2 sensor. cloaked wrote and this little trick is not going to adversely affect the oxygen sensor or the catalytic converter on wed 16 jul 2003 161158 -0400 david little dalite01@sprynet.com wrote you can clean the combustion chamber by injecting transmission fluid into the pcv valve; metered just enough to keep it from stalling at fast idle. plan on putting in fresh plugs after the treatment. i dont know if it will solve your problem. also go back to stock plugs if any of the newer

From : clare snyder on ca

on fri 11 jul 2003 101658 -0400 c. e. white cewhite3@mindspring.com wrote robert hancock wrote you say you replaced the coil but it might also be a problem with the ignition module itself im assuming thats a separate component on this engine. its possible there might be some mechanical problem like a burnt valve or something thats causing a miss but the dealers engine replacement recommendation seems a tad extreme. did they provide details of the leakdown test results unfortunately no. they just said based on the results of the test they recommended an engine replacement. we dont really care if the van runs like new - we just want to cure the miss so the check engine light stays out. as far as i can tell the van runs about as well as it ever did. the van does have a persistent click at idle when cold. now we are getting somewhere. the valve click is likely the missing clue. the valve guides on those mitsushitty engines have a reputation well earned for failing. early ones simply fell out - newer ones wear out. i suspect you have a loose valve guide on the exhaust valve of #5. pull the rocker cover and turn the engine till the valve is fully closed then attempt to wiggle the top of the valve. any noticeable movement is excessive. have the heads rebuilt and you should be good for close to another 50000 miles or more. the bottom end on those engines is pretty solid - i have over 240000km on mine - on the third set of heads. guides fell out of the first set and wore out on the second. this click has been with us for a long time. i assume it is a noisy lifter if you can use that term for this engine. it usually clears up as soon as the engine warms up. it did this long before the check engine light became a problem. the miss is defintiely not continuous. i have riden for miles with the scan tool attached and never seen it show up. thanks for the suggestions. regards ed white .