Poor fuel mileage 2004 cummins 600 3500 4x4
From : hawkdoc
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Replies:
From : willis harkness
on thu 10 mar 2005 140601 -0300 clt clr@clt.cl wrote i have a diesel engine and it doesnt crank it take 60 amps from the batery but it still does nothing. were should i first start to look thanks. chris. if its pulling 60 amps hold the key in the start position and watch for the smoke and youll find your problem. .
From : denny
tom that flash is only available for the ho version engine right... hes got a 2004.5 325/600 engine. .
From : hawkdoc
i agree with tom. lift pump is probably producing insufficient flow which will result in an injection pump soon enough. a pressure gauge should come standard on the dash next to the fuel level. brent .
From : tom lawrence
on sun 20 feb 2005 182658 -0600 mike simmons mikesim@yhti.net wrote sunny 74 degrees nascar is back and the cardinals are in spring training...... sigh life is good! ;^ mike and the bees are starting to bring in maple pollen! spring is just around the corner. beekeep .
From : tom lawrence
my new truck is getting only about 15 mpg. my dads 1997 averages 20 mpg or better. my truck only has about 11000 miles on it. is my fuel mileage average or just too early to tell while the engine breaks in i had read some time ago that you will not get your best mpg until after 15k .
From : ken bosch
98 1/2 ton auto 4x4 318. only way to get back up lights to come on is to hold shifter between park and rev. just got the truck a couple of weeks ago so havent had achance to hunt for the problem yet. any ideas thanks .
From : 451mopar
hi i had to remove broken spark plugs in the past. on my dads jaguar v12 the ceramic on the spark plug broke off. if the nut part of the plug is still in use a 6 point wrench to get it out. another way is to heat up the plug with a torch. your block must be steel. if its aluminum youll melt it. a propane or butane torch will work. youll have to heat it up quite a bit. it wont melt or discolor as the torch wont get hot enough. you can also cut it out with a oxy/acetylene torch with a small cutting torch tip or a small scarfing tip. you will be skimming the inside of the plug with the torch. the plug will heat up just fine without doing harm to the block threads. the plug will retain the heat and the block will stay cool as it is much larger and will dissipate the heat well. you can also drive a good chisel through the ceramic and make a hole in it. the ceramic is hard so it will take effort. once this is done youll be able to easy out the remainder of the plug. heating it up though with a propane or butane torch and using a 6 point wrench is probably your best bet. be sure to use compressed air and goggles to blow out the cylinder of debris when your done. make definitely sure that the cylinder is clean. there is an industrial type of anti seize which is gray and brush on. you should be able to pick it up at an ace hardware home depot or plumbing place. i use it on my porsche 911 nuts and bolts. it works great. heat will be your best bet. penetrating oil is not my choice. whenever i replace badly rusted brake lines i alwayss use a torch to heat them. it works great for loosening rust. also be carful using an open flame by the carb fuel lines wiring harness or battery. ive had a couple of batteries blow up on me from an open flame. its like a grenade. i was deaf for a while as well as the acid burns on my face and chest. luckily i healed just fine. good luck to you and if i can help drop me a line. jessie eric f wrote hope you put anti-seize compound on the threads.. you did didnt you 1996 dodge ram 2500 5.9l engine i was changing my plugs and one broke. the body of the plug came out but the part that bottom part screws into the head is still in there. what can i do to remove this ive tried my tap and die i could not move it. out of all the plugs it had the most rust. ive wd40 it and will let it sit overnight. is there anything i can buy that will help me take this out im guessing it might have to be drilled out. if i have to take it to a shop what will something like this cost to fix please reply here and if you need more info just ask ill be checking the thread hourly! thanks! .
From : snoman
the change in sound you are describing sounds like a main bearing. hardly. mains make very little noise when failed. in fact an engine with a failed main could run for quite some time depending on how much oil pressure is lost due to the failure. particularly in the 360 where the mains are 2.800 diameter the crank is stiff enough to keep any flex to a minimum. fact is it could be any bearing on the crank but is much more likely to be the rods than the mains. the problem is that if a bearing has failed the chances are pretty good that the crank journal that the bearing supports or rides on is also damaged which will require removal of the crank for machining. while this can be done with the engine in the vehicle in many cases it really defines pita to do it. if it was a main bearing you also have to check the block for damage from this as well and if it is out it comes. if you intend to keep the truck for a while and with the work load you put on it i would suggest going with a short block and with about 100k on it you might think about going with a long block instead and get the new rebuilt heads and valve train as well. otherwise seems like you are hitting the mark. -- max give a man a match and he is warm for a short while. light him on fire and he is warm for the rest of his life. the 5.9l motor in my 98 2500 quad cab has developed a lower end knock. its most noticeable on start for a few seconds but its always there just much quieter. this truck has about 100k on it. my thought is a rod bearing but i guess it could be a main bearing. other than this the motor runs strong. we pull a 5000 pound trailer about 200 miles every weekend for several months. were looking to possibly be pulling for longer distances next year. are there any reasons to not putting rod and/or main bearings in or is a short block the only way to go thanks for any suggestions. the change in sound you are describing sounds like a main bearing. the problem is that if a bearing has failed the chances are pretty good that the crank journal that the bearing supports or rides on is also damaged which will require removal of the crank for machining. while this can be done with the engine in the vehicle in many cases it really defines pita to do it. if it was a main bearing you also have to check the block for damage from this as well and if it is out it comes. if you intend to keep the truck for a while and with the work load you put on it i would suggest going with a short block and with about 100k on it you might think about going with a long block instead and get the new rebuilt heads and valve train as well. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : joelb7
christopher thompson wrote then wheres the fun in having the hemi if you cant turn er loose = in a heavy suv/truck it is a lot more show than go. -- posted using the http//www.autoforumz.com interface at authors request articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards topic url http//www.autoforumz.com/dodge-actual-gas-mileage-hemi-ftopict129642.html visit topic url to contact author reg. reqd. report abuse http//www.autoforumz.com/eform.phpp=635264 .
From : moparman
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From : northzulchaggie
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From : steve lusardi
thanks. i ran into at least one web site that said odbii vehicles dont flash codes via the check engine light. mine does so i was making sure. on mon 21 feb 2005 023725 gmt tbone t-bonenospam@nc.rr.com wrote your 97 is a odbii and the connector is under the dash below the steering wheel. ** due to spam i no longer receive email responses to ** group postings so dont bother. .
From : nosey
i have a 2001 dodge ram 2500.i couldnt find the drain plug for the radiator.does it have one or do i remove the lower hose ronnie -- posted using the http//www.autoforumz.com interface at authors request articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards topic url http//www.autoforumz.com/dodge-radiator-drain-plug-ftopict104302.html visit topic url to contact author reg. reqd. report abuse http//www.autoforumz.com/eform.phpp=483997 .
From : tom lawrence
hi all 99 dodge caravan 4cyl 3 speed auto. wont shift into reverse unless warm. has trouble shifting into 3rd anytime slips. if let off gas it *may* shift into 3rd. if downshift to 2nd goes right into 2nd ok. replaced trans filter and fluid. inside transmission was clean old fluid looked good. in reading the repair manual about the only other user service i can do is adjust the bands. will adjusting the bands help what does the band adjustment do actually will using dexron fluid have caused a problem in the 3 speed thanks kpg .
From : roy
i had read some time ago that you will not get your best mpg until after 15k it depends more on how you work the truck. after the first few hundred miles the harder you work it the faster it will break in. an empty truck just driven around town could take upwards of 30000mi to fully break in whereas a truck thats pulling a heavy trailer behind it could break in in as little as 10000mi. .
From : hawkdoc
hi all i found this article today ... 5/10/2005. according to the article we should have started to see drops in diesel fuel pricing 2 weeks ago. its the same here in north dallas. i pay $2.28 and have been for 6-8 weeks. anyone seeing a change yet http//fleetowner.com//dieselpriceenergy041205/ craig c. .