Ping Geekboy - Engine light now out
From : geekboy
Q: it seems the problem was at pin 7 on the round connector. some reason the wire was previously broken or cut then put back together with crimp connectors. one of the crimps did not hold well and came off. i temporarily put a alligator clipped jumper wire. well this puts a dampner on my hoping it was only an electrical problem. the truck afterwards seemed to want to drive. i kept driving it back and forth for a few times to see if it would want to drive. in the end it does not want move again. crap. doesnt dodge have a recall on those junker re47s ;- today it also posted some codes okay - lets see here p0753 you had this one - 3-4 shift solenoid problem p 0460 fuel level sending unit no change over miles. hmmm.... interesting but not trans-related. notice any problem with your fuel gauge p1765 you had this one too - transmission +12v supply relay control circuit p1993 no listing... so theres some type of electrical problem. first check and make sure the transmission relay in the pdc is good. next pull the relay and with the engine running check for +12v in the relay socket where terminal 86 would plug in to. check for ground in the socket where terminal #85 would plug in to. shut the engine off and with the relay removed first check for +12v in the socket where terminal 30 would plug in to. if no voltage here check the large 20a fuse in the power distribution center. if voltage is good insert a jumper into the socket between terminals 30 and 87. this will let you test the transmission connector without the engine running never good to crawl under a running vehicle. with the jumper in place you should be able to read +12v on pin #1 of the 8-pin round connector on the drivers side of the transmission. it should be a red wire. if thats good plug the connector back in and using a lead from a test probe with a sharp skinny pin on it ground the brown wire pin #6. listen for the od solenoid going clunk. hopefully somewhere in that list of tests you discover a problem. crap - i just remembered that you already pulled the transmission. in that case you can still do everything above except the last part. with the trans on the bench you can just apply +12v to pin #1 of the connector and ground to pin #6 to test the od solenoid. you can even do this with a fresh 9v battery if you dont have +12v dc power handy. .
Replies:
From : tom lawrence
it seems the problem was at pin 7 on the round connector. pin #7 is the torque converter clutch solenoid control. are you sure it was pin #7 was it an orange wire with a black stripe some reason the wire was previously broken or cut then put back together with crimp connectors. one of the crimps did not hold well and came off. i temporarily put a alligator clipped jumper wire. it sounds like you have a very hacked-up truck... spliced transmission wire jumpered/bypassed relay... geez what else could you find if you looked closely * well this puts a dampner on my hoping it was only an electrical problem. the truck afterwards seemed to want to drive. i kept driving it back and forth for a few times to see if it would want to drive. oh i didnt mean to give the impression that the above would address your apparent lack of fluid pressure to apply your clutches - no you still need to air-test the vb and most likely disassemble and repair whats failed. * this is a diesel right the previous owner may have installed a mystery switch allowing direct control over the torque converter lockup. do a web search on diesel mystery switch and read up on it. i dont think bypassing the transmission relay was part of it though - so that parts still a mystery sorry for the pun .
From : tom lawrence
i think i will go find some transmission and oil pressure gauges and try that first. according to the manual that would seem to more pinpoint the problem area. unless you think a air pressure test would be better. nope thats fine. i was still thinking you had removed the transmission. .
From : geekboy
it seems the problem was at pin 7 on the round connector. pin #7 is the torque converter clutch solenoid control. are you sure it was pin #7 was it an orange wire with a black stripe yeah because i was going to look how to get at the wire for pin 6 when i noticed the problem wire.. 1-7 are in a circle while #8 is in the center. each one s clearly marked. i could look again but i think it was orange with black stripe or the other was around..blakc with orange strip but i know i was on #7. some reason the wire was previously broken or cut then put back together with crimp connectors. one of the crimps did not hold well and came off. i temporarily put a alligator clipped jumper wire. it sounds like you have a very hacked-up truck... spliced transmission wire jumpered/bypassed relay... geez what else could you find if you looked closely * well this puts a dampner on my hoping it was only an electrical problem. the truck afterwards seemed to want to drive. i kept driving it back and forth for a few times to see if it would want to drive. oh i didnt mean to give the impression that the above would address your apparent lack of fluid pressure to apply your clutches - no you still need to air-test the vb and most likely disassemble and repair whats failed. i think i will go find some transmission and oil pressure gauges and try that first. according to the manual that would seem to more pinpoint the problem area. unless you think a air pressure test would be better. * this is a diesel right the previous owner may have installed a mystery switch allowing direct control over the torque converter lockup. do a web search on diesel mystery switch and read up on it. i dont think bypassing the transmission relay was part of it though - so that parts still a mystery sorry for the pun its not a switch. its a dtt 1140 smart controller. when the transmission started failing it was engaged. there is a switch to turn it on an off on the dash. it lights when on in use. .
From : tom lawrence
nope thats fine. i was still thinking you had removed the transmission. thats the last thing i will do. that is a lot of work. yeah ive heard that... though now i am having trouble finding a set of pressure gauges that are not online. having a dispute with bank and do not want to use it till it is solved. i got mine at a plumbing supply house - fittings too. .
From : geekboy
i think i will go find some transmission and oil pressure gauges and try that first. according to the manual that would seem to more pinpoint the problem area. unless you think a air pressure test would be better. nope thats fine. i was still thinking you had removed the transmission. thats the last thing i will do. that is a lot of work. though now i am having trouble finding a set of pressure gauges that are not online. having a dispute with bank and do not want to use it till it is solved. also since i reconnected wire 7 back together i have seen another problem. the trans temp and o/d lights remain lit until after the engine is started. .
From : geekboy
nope thats fine. i was still thinking you had removed the transmission. thats the last thing i will do. that is a lot of work. yeah ive heard that... i pulled and rebuilt a torqueflite some years ago. very messy. not so heavy as i was able to man handle it myself but this one is double the size and would a pain in the ass. guess if i had to i could purchase one of those atv lifts. though now i am having trouble finding a set of pressure gauges that are not online. having a dispute with bank and do not want to use it till it is solved. i got mine at a plumbing supply house - fittings too. didi not realize that. what size are fittings thanks for the info. .
From : tom lawrence
i got mine at a plumbing supply house - fittings too. didi not realize that. what size are fittings the trans test ports are all 1/8 npt. my gauges were 1/4 npt. a simple matter to adapt it down to 1/8 1/4 coupler 1/4-1/8 bushing and a 4 long 1/8 nipple. you may be able to just get 1/8 gauges. get a coupler and a short nipple too - some of the ports are in a tight spot and the gauge by itself wont fit. .