Ping Geekboy
From : max dodge
Q: trans -- max join www.devilbrad.com and find out what free exchange of info is all about. there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author .
Replies:
From : geekboy
i have not had time to get under there and look into it. i was away for a while and left a lot of my stuff stored at my moms place. now i have it all out i am starting to notice some tools -n- stuff missing so i am having to go buy some new things. i will probably go out later today or tomorrow and start on it. i am wondering though...is the 48re better and compatable i wonder if i shouldnt go to a place like autozone get a 48re and just put in there and maybe they wont notice me giving them a 47re in its place ;- i still have to go and buy a compressor so i guess i can start taking it apart them go buy the compressor for the air tests. or maybe i should just go rent some hydraulic pressure gauges according to the manual that method would get a close pinpoint without having to disassemble it yet. thanks for asking. trans -- max join www.devilbrad.com and find out what free exchange of info is all about. there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author .
From : geekboy
oh something else i did not bring up. before the trans failed it did have a bit of a problem that seemed to get a little worse over time. that is after sitting for more than a day i would have to allow the engine to idle for a moment or two after starting the engine because the trans would not engage until after a moment or two till after the engine started. that is tc drain back fairly normal. put it in neutral it will fill faster. okay what about the codes dont know. listen to max and tom for that info. okay thanks .
From : tom lawrence
well that is good to know if i decide to do that. but is the 48re better than the 47re yes. just about every clutch pack has more friction material most notably the overdrive direct clutch which has been beefed up from 8 steels/7 frictions to 23 one-sided frictions sort of a steel and a friction in one. the 48re also has better fluid flow to the overdrive unit. those were the two biggest factors with 46re/47re failures. the planetaries are 6-pinion units compared to 5-pinion in the 47re resulting in a stronger gear set though breakage of a planetary in a 47re is rare unless youre racing or sled pulling with the thing. .
From : geekboy
oh something else i did not bring up. before the trans failed it did have a bit of a problem that seemed to get a little worse over time. that is after sitting for more than a day i would have to allow the engine to idle for a moment or two after starting the engine because the trans would not engage until after a moment or two till after the engine started. over time it became worse after just sitting overnight and would do the same thing. i went ahead and put some cheap trans fluid back in it and with the new filter to see what would happen. it seems a tad bit better. the truck will slowly star moving now if i rev the eng high enough. to me it seems the trans just needs more pressure to engage better. today it also posted some codes p0753 p 0460 p1765 p1993 trans -- max join www.devilbrad.com and find out what free exchange of info is all about. there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author .
From : tom lawrence
i am wondering though...is the 48re better and compatable i wonder if i shouldnt go to a place like autozone get a 48re and just put in there and maybe they wont notice me giving them a 47re in its place ;- if youre serious it can be done. youll have to do a little re-wiring of your existing park/neutral switch connector as the 48re uses a range sensor that indicates the position of the manual valve prndl. everything else is compatible and will just bolt or plug into place. .
From : roy
oh something else i did not bring up. before the trans failed it did have a bit of a problem that seemed to get a little worse over time. that is after sitting for more than a day i would have to allow the engine to idle for a moment or two after starting the engine because the trans would not engage until after a moment or two till after the engine started. that is tc drain back fairly normal. put it in neutral it will fill faster. .
From : geekboy
oh something else i did not bring up. before the trans failed it did have a bit of a problem that seemed to get a little worse over time. that is after sitting for more than a day i would have to allow the engine to idle for a moment or two after starting the engine because the trans would not engage until after a moment or two till after the engine started. that is tc drain back fairly normal. put it in neutral it will fill faster. okay what about the codes seems p0753 is transaxle 3-4 shift solenoid/transaxle relay circuits and p1765 is trans. 12 volt supply relay control circuit i recall those codes coming up before but kept disapearing. .
From : geekboy
i am wondering though...is the 48re better and compatable i wonder if i shouldnt go to a place like autozone get a 48re and just put in there and maybe they wont notice me giving them a 47re in its place ;- if youre serious it can be done. youll have to do a little re-wiring of your existing park/neutral switch connector as the 48re uses a range sensor that indicates the position of the manual valve prndl. everything else is compatible and will just bolt or plug into place. well that is good to know if i decide to do that. but is the 48re better than the 47re .
From : roy
oh something else i did not bring up. before the trans failed it did have a bit of a problem that seemed to get a little worse over time. that is after sitting for more than a day i would have to allow the engine to idle for a moment or two after starting the engine because the trans would not engage until after a moment or two till after the engine started. that is tc drain back fairly normal. put it in neutral it will fill faster. okay what about the codes dont know. listen to max and tom for that info. .
From : tom lawrence
today it also posted some codes okay - lets see here p0753 you had this one - 3-4 shift solenoid problem p 0460 fuel level sending unit no change over miles. hmmm.... interesting but not trans-related. notice any problem with your fuel gauge p1765 you had this one too - transmission +12v supply relay control circuit p1993 no listing... so theres some type of electrical problem. first check and make sure the transmission relay in the pdc is good. next pull the relay and with the engine running check for +12v in the relay socket where terminal 86 would plug in to. check for ground in the socket where terminal #85 would plug in to. shut the engine off and with the relay removed first check for +12v in the socket where terminal 30 would plug in to. if no voltage here check the large 20a fuse in the power distribution center. if voltage is good insert a jumper into the socket between terminals 30 and 87. this will let you test the transmission connector without the engine running never good to crawl under a running vehicle. with the jumper in place you should be able to read +12v on pin #1 of the 8-pin round connector on the drivers side of the transmission. it should be a red wire. if thats good plug the connector back in and using a lead from a test probe with a sharp skinny pin on it ground the brown wire pin #6. listen for the od solenoid going clunk. hopefully somewhere in that list of tests you discover a problem. crap - i just remembered that you already pulled the transmission. in that case you can still do everything above except the last part. with the trans on the bench you can just apply +12v to pin #1 of the connector and ground to pin #6 to test the od solenoid. you can even do this with a fresh 9v battery if you dont have +12v dc power handy. .
From : tom lawrence
my panel is not marked at all and i do not see which are terminals 30 and 87. sorry - i should have been clearer. the relay itself will be marked with the terminal numbers. .
From : geekboy
today it also posted some codes okay - lets see here p0753 you had this one - 3-4 shift solenoid problem p 0460 fuel level sending unit no change over miles. hmmm.... interesting but not trans-related. notice any problem with your fuel gauge p1765 you had this one too - transmission +12v supply relay control circuit p1993 oops my bad. 1693 no listing... so theres some type of electrical problem. first check and make sure the transmission relay in the pdc is good. next pull the relay and with the engine running check for +12v in the relay socket where terminal 86 would plug in to. check for ground in the socket where terminal #85 would plug in to. no relay. seems some brass jumper has been replaced where te relay should go. ..... shut the engine off and with the relay removed first check for +12v in the socket where terminal 30 would plug in to. if no voltage here check the large 20a fuse in the power distribution center. if voltage is good insert a jumper into the socket between terminals 30 and 87. this will let you test the transmission connector without the engine running never good to crawl unde
From : geekboy
today it also posted some codes okay - lets see here p0753 you had this one - 3-4 shift solenoid problem p 0460 fuel level sending unit no change over miles. hmmm.... interesting but not trans-related. notice any problem with your fuel gauge p1765 you had this one too - transmission +12v supply relay control circuit p1993 no listing... so theres some type of electrical problem. first check and make sure the transmission relay in the pdc is good. next pull the relay and with the engine running check for +12v in the relay socket where terminal 86 would plug in to. check for ground in the socket where terminal #85 would plug in to. shut the engine off and with the relay removed first check for +12v in the socket where terminal 30 would plug in to. if no voltage here check the large 20a fuse in the power distribution center. if voltage is good insert a jumper into the socket between terminals 30 and 87. this will let you test the transmission connector without the engine my panel is not marked at all and i do not see which are terminals 30 and 87. unless you mean the very place where the jumper is already in place. i guess that would mean i shoudl be able to go ahead and test the voltage at pins 1 & 8 of the connector going to do it now running never good to crawl under a running vehicle. with the jumper in place you should be able to read +12v on pin #1 of the 8-pin round connector on the drivers side of the transmission. it should be a red wire. if thats good plug the connector back in and using a lead from a test probe with a sharp skinny pin on it ground the brown wire pin #6. listen for the od solenoid going clunk. hopefully somewhere in that list of tests you discover a problem. crap - i just remembered that you already pulled the transmission. in that case you can still do everything above except the last part. with the trans on the bench you can just apply +12v to pin #1 of the connector and ground to pin #6 to test the od solenoid. you can even do this with a fresh 9v battery if you dont have +12v dc power handy. .
From : max dodge
youll have to do a little re-wiring of your existing park/neutral switch connector id like to see a schematic or diagram of this mod do you have one -- max join www.devilbrad.com and find out what free exchange of info is all about. there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author i am wondering though...is the 48re better and compatable i wonder if i shouldnt go to a place like autozone get a 48re and just put in there and maybe they wont notice me giving them a 47re in its place ;- if youre serious it can be done. youll have to do a little re-wiring of your existing park/neutral switch connector as the 48re uses a range sensor that indicates the position of the manual valve prndl. everything else is compatible and will just bolt or plug into place. .
From : max dodge
1693 indicates a trouble code set in the engine ecm. -- max join www.devilbrad.com and find out what free exchange of info is all about. there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author today it also posted some codes okay - lets see here p0753 you had this one - 3-4 shift solenoid problem p 0460 fuel level sending unit no change over miles. hmmm.... interesting but not trans-related. notice any problem with your fuel gauge p1765 you had this one too - transmission +12v supply relay control circuit p1993 oops my bad. 1693 no listing... so theres some type of electrical problem. first check and make sure the transmission relay in the pdc is good. next pull the relay and with the engine running check for +12v in the relay socket where terminal 86 would plug in to. check for ground in the socket where terminal #85 would plug in to. no relay. seems some brass jumper has been replaced where te relay should go. .... shut the engine off and with the relay removed first check for +12v in the socket where terminal 30 would plug in to. if no voltage here check the large 20a fuse in the power distribution center. if voltage is good insert a jumper into the socket between terminals 30 and 87. this will let you test the transmission connector without the engine running never good to crawl under a running vehicle. with the jumper in place you should be able to read +12v on pin #1 of the 8-pin round connector on the drivers side of the transmission. it should be a red wire. if thats good plug the connector back in and using a lead from a test probe with a sharp skinny pin on it ground the brown wire pin #6. listen for the od solenoid going clunk. hopefully somewhere in that list of tests you discover a problem. crap - i just remembered that you already pulled the transmission. in that case you can still do everything above except the last part. with the trans on the bench you can just apply +12v to pin #1 of the connector and ground to pin #6 to test the od solenoid. you can even do this with a fresh 9v battery if you dont have +12v dc power handy. no i have not pulled it yet...not gotten aroudn to do it due to time. going now to do the rest of the tests and let ya know..thanks .
From : max dodge
okey dokey... saved..... -- max join www.devilbrad.com and find out what free exchange of info is all about. there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author id like to see a schematic or diagram of this mod do you have one nope - never sat down and put one together - i just did a cursory scan of the wiring between the two back when we were talking about stuffing a 48re into your truck. now that i look at it again it seems fairly straight-forward. on the 47re the park/neutral switch has battery power on pin 1 park/neutral position sense on pin 2 and the backup lamp feed on pin 3. on the 48re the range sensor has battery on pin 1 park/netural sense on pin 6 and backup lamp feed on pin 4. pin 2 is a mux output to indicate the position of the manual valve drives the prndl display on the instrument cluster and pin 5 is a +5v supply for that mux output the trs has several resistors in it so im sure that pin 2 output simply changes the voltage based on manual valve position. pin 3 isnt used. so assuming you get the connector that plugs into the trs with a little bit of wiring youd simply hack off the park/neutral connector from the old trucks wiring harness and splice pin 1 to pin 1 pin 2 to pin 6 and pin 3 to pin 4. .
From : tom lawrence
id like to see a schematic or diagram of this mod do you have one nope - never sat down and put one together - i just did a cursory scan of the wiring between the two back when we were talking about stuffing a 48re into your truck. now that i look at it again it seems fairly straight-forward. on the 47re the park/neutral switch has battery power on pin 1 park/neutral position sense on pin 2 and the backup lamp feed on pin 3. on the 48re the range sensor has battery on pin 1 park/netural sense on pin 6 and backup lamp feed on pin 4. pin 2 is a mux output to indicate the position of the manual valve drives the prndl display on the instrument cluster and pin 5 is a +5v supply for that mux output the trs has several resistors in it so im sure that pin 2 output simply changes the voltage based on manual valve position. pin 3 isnt used. so assuming you get the connector that plugs into the trs with a little bit of wiring youd simply hack off the park/neutral connector from the old trucks wiring harness and splice pin 1 to pin 1 pin 2 to pin 6 and pin 3 to pin 4. .