PING: All you AC/HVAC experts

From : azwiley1

Q: anyone have any experience with transfer case swaps between autos an manuals or between jeep and dodge does a dodge transfer case from an auto trans bolt to a manual tran and vice versa. im pretty sure it does on jeeps. can transfer cases be swapped between similar jeep and dodge vehicles like from a dodge 46re to a jeep 46re i thought there might be a clocking/bolt pattern difference between jeep and dodge. were many or any dodge daks or rams 4wds equipped with awd transfe cases rather than the lo/hi/2wd/4wd type i looked at one of ou company dak 4wd trucks today and couldnt see any type of shifte except the auto shifter on the column. i was only looking throug the window though. i believe it was a brand new truck .

Replies:

From : mac davis

on mon 13 aug 2007 193532 -0800 quintin sauerquint@yahoo.com wrote youll be getting a bigger engine but adding the 4x4 youll also be gaining alot of weight. i think its a wash. imo 4x4 and towing go together like military intelligence or feminine logic but the torque difference between the 2 engines isnt going to be nullified by the weight or friction of 4 wheel drive.. gonna burn in hell for the f l comment mac please remove splinters before emailing .

From : mac davis

on mon 13 aug 2007 153804 -0400 roy roy@fhome.net wrote have any of you folks tried to sell a house or buy one in the past couple of months. it is a damn horror show! the banks are making it almost impossible for people to get a loan. even those with super credit. i could have sold my house in ma a dozen time but everybody has to sell their house first and 1st home buyers cant get a loan.things are about paralyzed. blame it on what or whoever things are pretty much fucked. a large lowes distributing warehouse here in fl just laid of over 200 people cause of the lack of people being able to get a home improvement loan or a construction loan. this is the new trickle down economy. im done venting. roy we ended up giving our house to the kids... it was that or give it to the bank.. appraised in 05 for $320k for our refi... put it on the market in sept. 06 for $255k reduced it to $230k and in 6 months got one offer for $200k.. we owed about $210k... we thought that wed sell and net about $80k... yeah right... the only offer we got would have had us about $20k out of pocket.. mac please remove splinters before emailing .

From : miles

amen to that. my previously $750000 home in maryland dropped to a $500000 home because of mortgages. i was going to put it on the market two weeks ago but now.... well i guess i get to eat some re taxes. yup thats the way it will go for a bit. im leaving it on the market it will move eventually im pretty much screwed at this point but im open to discussion on price if anyone wants to live on the chesapeake waterfront. -- max join www.devilbrad.com and find out what free exchange of info is all about. there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author have any of you folks tried to sell a house or buy one in the past couple of months. it is a damn horror show! the banks are making it almost impossible for people to get a loan. even those with super credit. i could have sold my house in ma a dozen time but everybody has to sell their house first and 1st home buyers cant get a loan.things are about paralyzed. blame it on what or whoever things are pretty much fucked. a large lowes distributing warehouse

From : miles

tom lawrence wrote yep - the michelin ltx m/s tires have served me well on both my duallies - even handled the big presidents day blizzard we im in nj also had back in 03 fairly well. i agree. very good tire in the snow. the lts a/s are worthless and the a/ts are too aggressive. m/s is a very good compromise. in many sizes the ltx m/s is not available. for my 2004 durango i went with michelin cross terrain. very similar to the m/s and just as good in the snow. expensive but worth it. they outlast cheaper competitors. .

From : mac davis

on fri 10 aug 2007 193241 -0700 miles nope@nopers.com wrote nosey wrote i will give them some credit they are very good at keeping a steady supply of dos equis i wish i could find a supply of tres equis which is their premium beer. very difficult to find. ill stick to tecate and victoria... mac please remove splinters before emailing .

From : mac davis

this crap again wasnt this done a couple years ago yup apparently the racist asshole likes to re-post old shit. i think he just got released from somewhere..... gunner .

From : nosey

pretty sure there are compatibility issues with the hd trans. i believe it will not fit the 5.9 magnum style motors. i know some people say they are behind 5.2s in rams but other people including new venture say they are not. thats incorrect. the nv3500 was behind the 318/5.2 in all v8 five speed rams. according to the books all 5.9/360s got the nv4500 if they got 5spds at all. some years did not have that option. like all the info i get for every good answer on one forum there is someone on another forum or another reply that contradicts it. very true. your best source would be to find a salvage yard that will help you determine what was where with its hollander manuals. so heres the deal i know the nv3500 has the integral bellhousing and splits in the middle for rebuilding. would it be possible to split the 3500hd and put it back together with the front section from a 3500 that came off a 5.2 motor no need the block mating surface of the 5.2 and 5.9 are identicle. only change youll need to make is the flywheel since the 5.9 is externally balanced whilethe 5.2 is internally balanced. how much of a 2wd 3500 would have to be swapped to use it with a 4wd tailshaft housing i found a pic of the 3500 here http//www.motivegear.com/techinfo/trannyguide/trannyguide.html you would have to rebuild the entire trans with a 4wd tailshaft and tailshaft housing. to get the right parts youd need a 4wd trans to make the 2wd trans into 4wd. then you may have issues as far as the ratios. once again you may be better off finding someone who will open the parts books and do the research. it shows the 3500 tailshaft housing is the whole back half so im asking the same thing but wondering if the back half or a 4wd 3500 will mate with the internals and front half of the 2wd close ratio 3500. see above. also wondering if the 3500 hd internals can go into the 3500 4wd halves. seems like it should but you never know! they will physically fit but will the ratios work find a good parts person!!! still going two steps forward one step back on this swap info! every time i learn more i learn this is also more to learn! - welcome to the world of trans swaps. again your most reliable info is in the parts books not here. -- max join www.devilbrad.com and find out what free exchange of info is all about. there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author .

From : azwiley1

on sat 11 aug 2007 164424 gmt gordg ggreig@shaw.ca wrote long time lurker here with a question. i currently have a 1999 ram 1500 with a 5.2 2 wd auto 150 k kilometers 93 k miles basic truck with air and cruise. im pulling a 4800 pd. dry weight travel trailer and finding its really underpowered for hills and windy conditions. i have a line on a 1999 ram 1500 with a 5.9 4x4 auto 120 k km with air cruise etc. assuming the standard gear ratios are the same can i expect to see a relatively favourable increase in towing capability both trucks are in very good condition. yes! we have a tt with your exact dry weight about 6000# with water food and other stuff you just have to bring... pulled it for a while with a neighbors 99 ram with 5.2 auto 355... barely did the job imo.. bought a 99 ram qq 5.9 auto 355 and the difference was very clear especially in the torque.. from what i understand the 5.2 has almost the same hp but lower torque and is a great all purpose engine but the 5.9 is was the towing engine if you had to drive a gasser.. quite a few friends that have the 5.2 have driven our 5.9 and noticed the difference when not towing but when we took a trip from ca to wa and pulled those grades the torque difference in the 5.9 was really appreciated! ymwv mac please remove splinters before emailing ok thanks. pretty much confirms what i was thinking. .

From : mac davis

wonderful sunrise this morning thought a few of you might enjoy it.. yep.. i posted a jpg.. fire away! bro where did ya post it it isnt here. roy mac please remove splinters before emailing .

From : mac davis

on sat 11 aug 2007 164424 gmt gordg ggreig@shaw.ca wrote long time lurker here with a question. i currently have a 1999 ram 1500 with a 5.2 2 wd auto 150 k kilometers 93 k miles basic truck with air and cruise. im pulling a 4800 pd. dry weight travel trailer and finding its really underpowered for hills and windy conditions. i have a line on a 1999 ram 1500 with a 5.9 4x4 auto 120 k km with air cruise etc. assuming the standard gear ratios are the same can i expect to see a relatively favourable increase in towing capability both trucks are in very good condition. yes! we have a tt with your exact dry weight about 6000# with water food and other stuff you just have to bring... pulled it for a while with a neighbors 99 ram with 5.2 auto 355... barely did the job imo.. bought a 99 ram qq 5.9 auto 355 and the difference was very clear especially in the torque.. from what i understand the 5.2 has almost the same hp but lower torque and is a great all purpose engine but the 5.9 is was the towing engine if you had to drive a gasser.. quite a few friends that have the 5.2 have driven our 5.9 and noticed the difference when not towing but when we took a trip from ca to wa and pulled those grades the torque difference in the 5.9 was really appreciated! ymwv mac please remove splinters before emailing .

From : craig c

to the front axle or the lever operates the vacuum valve and vacuum is transferred to the axle where the axles are coupled to the carrier. when the axles are locked to the carrier a micro switch is tripped illuminating the dash indicator. i think the latter is the case. this eliminates free you got it... the lever on the transfer case actuates a vacuum switch that switches vacuum from one line to the other running to the cad central axle disconnect on the front axle. this actuates a vacuum motor which moves the shift fork sliding a locking collar over the inner and middle axle shafts on the passenger side. on the other side of the vacuum motor on the cad is a switch that controls the 4wd light. note that as soon as you pull the lever on the transfer case its transmitting power to the front axle. the 4wd light is only indicating whether or not the front axle is locked. .

From : mac davis

on fri 10 aug 2007 164705 gmt bigironram not@home.com wrote when i bought my 2001 3500 i apparently fouled up the vin when i reported it to the insurance company. they kept calling it a br2500 and i tried to correct them and they told me they went by the vin sure enough id misread a character. you had a sport fury what year damn... going back to the late 60s is a strain on the senior memory.. i think my fury convertible was a 57 or 58 but i cant remember... i remember paying $400 for it though because it was 2 friggin paychecks.. also had dodge with big ugly fins and it also had the push button gear selection so they sort of blur together.. mac please remove splinters before emailing .

From : mac davis

on fri 10 aug 2007 120934 -0500 craig c. mcraigchr@gmail.com wrote bigironram wrote i work with a lady whos going to follow you to mexico when she retires. shes got me thinking about it also. i know several people who would be retired if not for health insurance costs. so what happens to your property and assets if/when mexico decides to nationalize like they did in the 70s craig c. probably the same thing that would have happened to us in ca when the governator flushes the state down the toilet not sure what would happen or if they could afford to... we have title insurance and all but who knows if the government is involved.. dont give billary any ideas... my guess is that the last thing they would want to do is effect the cash flow from gringos here... a couple of years ago the us dollar spent on homes and tourism became the number one cash generator over beer which supported large parts of baja for years.. probably have a revolt from the thousands of nationals that make relatively big bucks in all the gringo areas... mac please remove splinters before emailing .

From : mac davis

marksegal@optonline.net wrote i like the parking brake idea mentioned as it would fit the smell issue. now i will show real ignorance here.... would issues with the axles/bearings cause a smell when put under stress i would think not but i dont know. possibly. thats kind of a stretch but certainly not impossible. regarding axles/bearings....anything i should look for make sure you have enough fluid in the diff. jack up the rear and shake the tires. they shouldnt be loose. and since were at it... like i said i am new to trucks as a whole besides getting a chilton guide for this truck is there any book that anyone recommend i get i dont want to be the next dodge guru but i would really like to know more about my ride. chiltons isnt bad. but i bought the factory service manual. more expensive but much more detailed. -- ..bob 2006 fxdi hot rod 2001 dodge dakota qc 5.9/4x4/3.92 1966 mustang coupe - daily driver 1965 ffr cobra - 427w efi damn fast. .

From : azwiley1

46bcdd95$0$62304$892e0abb@auth.reader.octa.com tom lawrence tnooms4p8a8m@meimnbgaarlqlmoawield.com wrote now wtf is a burg i think he meant a suburban just guessing... im not very fluent in snoese. what i want to know is wtf is a toadya trck damn bmti... .

From : azwiley1

http//www.forbes.com/freeforbes/2007/0813/112a.html .

From : roy

lol no it runs great and no body damage. we delieved rv trailers with it.we met a guy that had 700000 on his. we have replaced transmissionand fuel lift pumpfuel injector pump. and thats it .

From : miles

i am not a truck person so i apologize if i dont make much sense. either way..... i have a 2002 dakota v6 4x4 sxt that i got used about 6 months ago. one time i overloaded the truck. when i got it home a smell of burning brakes was coming from it. although i havent done that again when i am carrying anything of a decent weight 400+ lbs i smell that smell again to a certain extent. 1. whats going on 2. what did i do 3. how do i fix it what do i tell the mechanic to check thanks! .

From : napalmheart

sorry to keep asking stupid questions but can any body tell me what the difference is between the hall effect sensor and the cam position sensor is and where they are located on a 1999 ram 2500 with 5.9 gas engine the cam position sensor is a hall effect sensor meaning that it provides a voltage based on magnetic induction. its located in the distributor base on the 5.2/5.9 engine. you can get to it by removing the cap and rotor. .

From : craig c

on tue 7 aug 2007 154745 -0400 tom lawrence tnooms4p8a8m@meimnbgaarlqlmoawield.com wrote trying to figure out what the hell is going on. i know there can be a lot of factors but i have to start at group and work up the ac is the most likely culprit but dont overlook other things. a little clamp-on ammeter can help you diagnose things. for example a friend of mine had a bill one month double his previous months bill... turned out he had a bad dehumidifer where the humidostat went on it causing it to run all the time. turn off everything in the house that you can and check your run-rate on your meter hopefully you have one of the newer meters with digital readouts so you can get a base kw/hr number. then kick the cac on and see what its drawing - see if that jives with the data plates on the compressor and air handlers. i remember back in ca where electricity is more expensive than diamonds we were spending about $25 a month more than the average in the neighborhood though we conserve and most there didnt... we replaced a 5 or 6 year old energy star refrigerator with a slightly larger one and our electricity bill went down over $90 a month... paid for the damn frig in less than a year! now were bitching about running the ac a lot and having to pay $125 for electricity last month... almost like living in a foreign country! $125.00 huh you suck! - about $20 more than that per month here in michigan. ken -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : roy

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From : chris thompson

long time lurker here with a question. i currently have a 1999 ram 1500 with a 5.2 2 wd auto 150 k kilometers 93 k miles basic truck with air and cruise. im pulling a 4800 pd. dry weight travel trailer and finding its really underpowered for hills and windy conditions. i have a line on a 1999 ram 1500 with a 5.9 4x4 auto 120 k km with air cruise etc. assuming the standard gear ratios are the same can i expect to see a relatively favourable increase in towing capability both trucks are in very good condition. .

From : mac davis

in response to mac davis s post. i thought everyone should know on fri 10 aug 2007 150429 -0700 azwiley1 wiley156@yahoo.com wrote possible but dont count on it. pricing on pv stays pretty constant. what does change is the appearance. you can get flexible pv in a roll now. i have seen some that look very much like shingles. the most bang for your buck is wind power if you get any wind in az. craig c. i could just pay denny to come down stand out side with cases of wc!! bg too many pollution issues! mac please remove splinters before emailing would he have to involve a hazmat team -- chris .

From : midlant

the select lever engages either 2wd high or 4wd high or 4wd low. i am not certain on the following but there are 2 scenarios. the first a micro switch is tripped when selecting either of the 4wd options. the micro switch illuminates the 4wd indicator on the dash and a solinoid opens a vacuum line to the front axle or the lever operates the vacuum valve and vacuum is transferred to the axle where the axles are coupled to the carrier. when the axles are locked to the carrier a micro switch is tripped illuminating the dash indicator. i think the latter is the case. this eliminates free wheeling hubs as a requirement. steve steve lusardi wrote the ram type tc with the electric over vacuum front axle does float the diff and it does save fuel. the awd does not. the ram rig can engage 4wd at any speed and that is very nice. steve ha! here i go again two steps forward one step back. i am vaguely familiar with that axle motor setup from pictures but im not sure how that works in conjunction with the tcase. which of the following is more correct a. the tcase removes power to the front driveshaft and the axle motor floats the diff to reduce effort/friction/wear at the front axle. b. the axle motor takes the front axle out of the picture by floating the diff. iirc - jeeps have that front axle motor setup too on some manual applications like xjs and possibly the 93 4.0 5spd zj. in the meantime ill go check my chiltons jeep manual and google a bit to see if i can figure out the answer from that. im going to assume its the first option tcase removes power to front dshaft and axle motor simply reduces effort etc. so if i put the ram tcase in my jeep without the motor type front axle i get 2wd but i dont reduce the effort and improve the gas mileage etc heres a scary question. if you installed the electric motor type axle on an awd full time -vc vehicle and activated the motor to float the front diff what would happen would it wreck the vc because there wouldnt be any resistance on one side or would i just blow something up - what does the hose on the tcase on my jeep 46re w/vc tcase do or is that just a vent thanks again - john .

From : miles

looks like the problem here is the nut behind the steering wheel ... plus a control that is a bit confusing. seems that the selector position which indicates air to the dash vents and to the floor will initiate the a/c if the temp control is turned into the blue. didnt realize this to be the case until a thorough study of the o/m. fred hi all! seems that the ac in my 99 ctd quad sport is stays on once turned on and wont shut off from the heater controls. anyone else have this problem and found the cure tia best to all! fred .

From : nosey

z88z wrote anyone have any experience with transfer case swaps between autos and manuals or between jeep and dodge does a dodge transfer case from an auto trans bolt to a manual trans and vice versa. im pretty sure it does on jeeps. can transfer cases be swapped between similar jeep and dodge vehicles like from a dodge 46re to a jeep 46re i thought there might be a clocking/bolt pattern difference between jeep and dodge. were many or any dodge daks or rams 4wds equipped with awd transfer cases rather than the lo/hi/2wd/4wd type i looked at one of our company dak 4wd trucks today and couldnt see any type of shifter except the auto shifter on the column. i was only looking through the window though. i believe it was a brand new truck. steve l/tbone so what do the rams use now that they got rid of the motorized floating diff front axle nothing. im finally realizing there was never an awd 5spd w/ vc tcase application then that i dont know but probably not. ive heard of people removing the jeep v8 front d/shaft for whatever reason they reported not much difference in gas mileage. by doing that on the vc style jeeps they are ruining the vc then i doubt that they are doing this on the vc style jeeps and if so then the transfer case would need to have the ability to return to 2wd or part time 4wd which effectivly removes the vc from the drive line. i know having even slightly different diameters on the tires damages the vc. different widths front to rear doesnt matter right as long as they are the same diameter there shouldnt be any real issues as far as the vc goes. my jeeps vc is already bad. it does the jumpy/jerky thing in tight parking lot turns etc. that sounds like it is locked or siezed. are you sure that you are in awd and not part time 4x4. now i still have 4wd right and that 4wd is now more or less the same as a ram would be in 4wd in my case removing the d/shaft or floating the diff couldnt damage it any further right i dont plan on removing it but i was wondering about using the floating diff axle. if the vc has siexed then you are acting in a part time 4x4 mode and continuing operation like this will put excessive strain on the drive train. removing the front drive shaft will relieve this problem but if the vc were to free up you probably would be stranded. with the bad vc is it actually split 50/50 or whatever now the way a regular transfer case splits it if it is siezed then yes a 50/50 split. does a bad vc actually affect mileage my jeep still averages just over 13 mpg which is normal for the 5.9 zj from what i hear. in fact im actually getting 14.5 mpg now that my second gear is gone cuz ive been babying it lately. probably not if it is siezed. it may actually improve the mileage slightly but will put excessive strain on the drive line in corners. so the ideal setup for mileage would be to get the front axle from a jeep with commantrac to use with this setup ill have to research those two. i dont even know if commandtrac or selecttrac was an option on zjs or if the front diff setup from other jeeps would fit the zj. this i dont know. i just did a quick search and read up on the using 4wd all the time controversy. so you folks with 4wd truck generally dont use 4wd except in snow and maybe rain right im going to have to rethink how i want this tcase setup to work. part time 4wd is not intended for full time use. a part time 4wd locks the front and real axles together which is fine in a straight line. the problem is when you turn the vehicle the front and rear axles are moving at different speeds and the part time 4wd has no way to relieve this as that is what the vc does. that is why you feel that hopping in tight corners with your jeep. in the snow and ice the wheels can slip to relieve this pressure but on a dry road..... more research! i see part time 4wd is also an option with selectrac. which does nothing more than lock up the vc. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : miles

z88z wrote anyone have any experience with transfer case swaps between auto and manuals or between jeep and dodge does a dodge transfer case from an auto trans bolt to a manua trans and vice versa. im pretty sure it does on jeeps. can transfer cases be swapped between similar jeep and dodg vehicles like from a dodge 46re to a jeep 46re i thought there might be a clocking/bolt pattern difference between jeep and dodge. were many or any dodge daks or rams 4wds equipped with aw transfer cases rather than the lo/hi/2wd/4wd type i looked at on of our company dak 4wd trucks today and couldnt see any type o shifter except the auto shifter on the column. i was only lookin through the window though. i believe it was a brand new truck steve l/tbon so what do the rams use now that they got rid of the motorize floating diff front axle im finally realizing there was never an awd 5spd w/ vc tcase application then ive heard of people removing the jeep v8 front d/shaft for whateve reason they reported not much difference in gas mileage by doing that on the vc style jeeps they are ruining the vc then i know having even slightly different diameters on the tires damage the vc. different widths front to rear doesnt matter right my jeeps vc is already bad. it does the jumpy/jerky thing in tigh parking lot turns etc now i still have 4wd right and that 4wd is now more or less th same as a ram would be in 4wd in my case removing the d/shaft o floating the diff couldnt damage it any further right i dont pla on removing it but i was wondering about using the floating dif axle with the bad vc is it actually split 50/50 or whatever now the way regular transfer case splits it does a bad vc actually affect mileage my jeep still averages jus over 13 mpg which is normal for the 5.9 zj from what i hear. in fac im actually getting 14.5 mpg now that my second gear is gone cuz iv been babying it lately so the ideal setup for mileage would be to get the front axle from jeep with commantrac to use with this setup ill have to researc those two i dont even know if commandtrac or selecttrac was an option on zjs o if the front diff setup from other jeeps would fit the zj i just did a quick search and read up on the using 4wd all th time controversy. so you folks with 4wd truck generally don use 4wd except in snow and maybe rain right im going to have t rethink how i want this tcase setup to work. more research i see part time 4wd is also an option with selectrac .

From : nosey

nosey wrote i will give them some credit they are very good at keeping a steady supply of dos equis i wish i could find a supply of tres equis which is their premium beer. very difficult to find. .

From : fmb

tom lawrence wrote now wtf is a burg i think he meant a suburban just guessing... im not very fluent in snoese. what i want to know is wtf is a toadya trck thats what the repo man says after you dont make a few loan payments. ya waz bee hind on yer pay-mints so we toad ya trck. -- ken .

From : chris thompson

in response to roy s post. i thought everyone should know if this dakota has oversized tires brake capacity is in fact reduced so where did you read that he has oversized tires federal braking standards as cars. my 89 4x4 burg has always had what i consider to be marginal brakes since it was new. yet another example from over 15 years ago. okay! ya both have me on this. wtf is a burg a suburban.... im ashamed to say that i was able to follow his trash though -- chris .

From : azwiley1

on thu 9 aug 2007 155411 -0400 tom lawrence tnooms4p8a8m@meimnbgaarlqlmoawield.com wrote as for the comments about getting a bigger truck no doubt with a big-block gas engine and super-low gearing in the rear axle well... ignore that part. an 02 dak is more than capable of hauling 400lbs. of cargo. if this dakota has oversized tires brake capacity is in fact reduced and would take less weight to overload brakes. also brakes are not that genrous on some models because small suvs do not have the same federal braking standards as cars. my 89 4x4 burg has always had what i consider to be marginal brakes since it was new. if you use brake gentely it is not a problem but if you have to set it down hard from speed the brakes complain. ----------------- thesnoman.com .

From : craig c

azwiley1 wrote not yet mac but if we are going to some of these issues are going to be addressed/fixed before we do. than if/after i buy i will look harder into the solar issue and maybe by then the prices will come down a little. possible but dont count on it. pricing on pv stays pretty constant. what does change is the appearance. you can get flexible pv in a roll now. i have seen some that look very much like shingles. the most bang for your buck is wind power if you get any wind in az. craig c. .

From : bigironram

tbone tbonenospam@nc.rr.com wrote in i have searched the internet and cant figure this out. last week i bought a 2002 dakota sport 4x4 off autotrader.com. it was listed as an r/t but has the 3.9 v6 with manual 5 peed. i figured the r/t was a mistake as its a v6. bought the truck anyway as its a beautiful truck with low miles for eight grand. the insurance company as well as car fax also lists this as an r/t when i run the vin codebut i thought the r/t was designated for the v8 trucks what is this thoughts apprecaited. truck has no visible r/t badges. first off i would check the vin number on the registration or title to that of the vehicle and make sure that they match. something tells me that what you have is not what the title belongs to. here is a link that describes the rt http//www.dodgedakotart.com/v1/ you might even find a message board on that site that will allow you to question people that own and know a lot about these specific vehicles. by definition all legitimate 02 r/ts have a 5.9 360ci automatic and 2wd. if your truck is different its not an r/t. better check the vin on the dash against the title. .

From : craig c

good shape and getting it from a junk yard will cost less. if you are going to do this you will really need to really know how to weld as this is a structural piece of the vehicle and it needs to be welded and aligned properly. you will also need to make sure that the frame rail is actually in good shape where you are going to attach the replacement section or you are just wasting your time and money. i would replace the entire section from the front to where the frame flattens back out near the body as that rot seems a little to close to the spring mount for me and then i would box the repair to make sure that it is solid. some people say not to do this but the performance world welds in new front clips all of the time and if done properly is completely safe and a hell of a lot less work than replacing the entire frame and much cheaper than replacing the entire vehicle. good luck. yup use to be done all the time with crashed vettes. but you really should put it on a jig and get the specs and have it done by sombody that really knows what they are doing. roy -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving . 222 338055 46bcbedc$0$79241$892e0abb@auth.reader.octa.com if this dakota has oversized tires brake capacity is in fact reduced so where did you read that he has oversized tires federal braking standards as cars. my 89 4x4 burg has always had what i consider to be marginal brakes since it was new. yet another example from over 15 years ago. if you use brake gentely it is not a problem right - like the op stated he did but if you have to set it down hard from speed the brakes complain. and if your aunt had balls.... why dont you stop inventing all kinds of scenarios and stick to the facts this is the second time youve recommended that someone tradein their vehicle. the first was someone with a bad rear wheel speed sensor and now its a guy with a 1/2-ton truck trying to haul 400lbs. of cargo. and you wonder why youre held in such contempt around here .

From : mac davis

on thu 09 aug 2007 183115 gmt bigironram not@home.com wrote snip if you dont like our rates generate your own power. last year my bill was pushing $500.00 for a 1540 sq. ft. house my brother in law got hit with $700.00 in his larger house. were getting a break this year due to record rainfall and cooler temperatures. one of the many reasons that we moved out of the states especially out of ca... i work with a lady whos going to follow you to mexico when she retires. shes got me thinking about it also. i know several people who would be retired if not for health insurance costs. .

From : mac davis

on fri 10 aug 2007 061222 -0700 rottingdead2001@webtv.net wrote i have searched the internet and cant figure this out. last week i bought a 2002 dakota sport 4x4 off autotrader.com. it was listed as an r/t but has the 3.9 v6 with manual 5 peed. i figured the r/t was a mistake as its a v6. bought the truck anyway as its a beautiful truck with low miles for eight grand. the insurance company as well as car fax also lists this as an r/t when i run the vin codebut i thought the r/t was designated for the v8 trucks what is this thoughts apprecaited. truck has no visible r/t badges. i agree with t... something smells crooked with the truck/paperwork.. could even be a salvaged/flood damaged truck with another trucks vin the r/t not only had the v-8 it had the 5.9l/360 while the other v-8 dakotas had the 5.2l/318... also im guessing that the insurance for an r/t is gonna be higher than a sport with a v-6 but insurance companies have always been big on charging by the name id its to their benefit.. i remember trying to explain that my sport fury was a big ol lead sled not a sports car.. *sigh* mac please remove splinters before emailing .

From : mac davis

on thu 09 aug 2007 181052 -0700 miles nope@nopers.com wrote bigironram wrote to generate power for california old plants had to be fired up from stagnant a significant cost alone and then they incurred fines from the epa for polluting texas. or did you think texans should have incurred those costs we already have some of the highest rates in the nation. and then some of us not me but hi craig! voluntarily pay extra to get clean power. if you dont like our rates generate your own power. last year my bill was pushing $500.00 for a 1540 sq. ft. house my brother in law got hit with $700.00 in his larger house. were getting a break this year due to record rainfall and cooler temperatures. californians benifit quite a bit from arizonans footing much of their power bill. arizonans paid srp to build the palo verde nuclear plant east of phoenix. we were told at the time our bills would be reduced. before completion politicians got involved and most of the plants power goes to california not arizona. cost overruns caused arizona srp bills to increase to pay for said overruns. thanks california! sort of interesting here... most of our power is produced in mexicali just across the border from ca.... the government subsidizes the power but really pushes for conservation... mostly because

From : mac davis

california at a huge profit.. nice to be on the winning side once.. mac please remove splinters before emailing . 222 338045 su3pb3pe54a3gqe0qbc15j3a62ag163qrq@4ax.com on thu 09 aug 2007 183115 gmt bigironram not@home.com wrote snip if you dont like our rates generate your own power. last year my bill was pushing $500.00 for a 1540 sq. ft. house my brother in law got hit with $700.00 in his larger house. were getting a break this year due to record rainfall and cooler temperatures. one of the many reasons that we moved out of the states especially out of ca... mac please remove splinters before emailing .

From : craig c

thanks for the comment. what is the lift pumps function we had same problem.it was the lift pump. later we had to replace injector pump because of driving with bad lift pump. so get fixed asap .

From : mac davis

sounds like condensation from an un-insulated piece of ductwork to me. hope this helps. .

From : tbone

i just bought an 89 dodge ram g250 extended van. it runs great and aside from a little rust on the door bottoms and a few other minor repairs its in excellent condition. but there is a bigger problem. on the passenger side the front section of the frame is all rusted leaving little metal left. the rust starts at the coil spring and goes up to the front bumper. because of this deteriorated frame the front torsion bar is no longer attached to anything and bangs around all the time. i fear that the coil spring will soon break away if i dont repair this. the problem is how i can weld but making something fit in there is beyond me. the frame is fine from the rear of that coil spring to the back and on the drivers side. i just need this 3 foot section. aside from finding a junk yard that has the part is there any place where i can order new frame sections i assume the body shops must have a place where they can get things like this but where does anyone know you will need to get this piece from a junk yard as this is where a body shop would also get it. who cares where it comes from as long it is in good shape and getting it from a junk yard will cost less. if you are going to do this you will really need to really know how to weld as this is a structural piece of the vehicle and it needs to be welded and aligned properly. you will also need to make sure that the frame rail is actually in good shape where you are going to attach the replacement section or you are just wasting your time and money. i would replace the entire section from the front to where the frame flattens back out near the body as that rot seems a little to close to the spring mount for me and then i would box the repair to make sure that it is solid. some people say not to do this but the performance world welds in new front clips all of the time and if done properly is completely safe and a hell of a lot less work than replacing the entire frame and much cheaper than replacing the entire vehicle. good luck. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : miles

the lady that rides a motorcycle and is probably still smoking. make sure you tell her i said hello. i talked to her every night before she boarded the last franklin local. she quit smoking four months ago. i told her i was talking to someone local on this forum then i showed her this reply of yours. she said oh i know him. thats gotta be roy w. she would be correct. its me. good that she quit smoking now shell be bitching about gaining weight. lol she asked how your shoulder and leg from the atv were doing. the leg actually the ankle has been fine for some time. the shoulder they operated on in dec. its better than the night i screwed it up but still aint like it use to be. but it is what it is. if you know her then you probably know me. i used to walk her out to the train sometimes then most likely headed back to three cheers. i dont do that type of thing anymore now that i have my class 1 license btw - three cheers closed at the end of 2006. ive also known dan for about 35 years as well you want to get his attention call him veronica he hasnt heard it for some time. i hit him up with that at the union meeting last night. he got a chuckle out of it and explained the veronica lake story. dan was all over the contract stuff. he should have been a lawyer! hes been around long enough to be well versed on contracts from both sides of the street. we are all voting no but they had e mails that three other locals were recomending yes votes. they didnt have any info on how big those locals were compared to the amount of vote no local members though so i dont know what that means. what it means is your probably screwed. the cost of living in new england is a hell of a lot more than south or west. we ran into the same deal they are a greater number and will vote to accept what may be a good deal for them regards the cost of living where they are. you on the other hand ...... the international dont give a damn amtrak is a dues collecting agency for them. in 1991 we managed to drag amtrak infront of congress and the intl officiers did everything they could to derail us. when it came time to testify only two showed up for the hearings. didnt matter we managed to do quite well without them. your best bet imo is to push real hard for regional negotiations. or jump to mbcr. .

From : azwiley1

hmmmmmmm........ marsh takes a toke......grabs the remote..... turns the volume up on his favorite sitcom........good stuff .

From : miles

on aug 7 1221 pm craig c. mcraig...@gmail.com wrote azwiley1 wrote like i said earlier we are very energy wise all energy saving bulbs that get used maybe an hour or two a day at night gas vice elec dryer and range plus the window stuff mentioned above. are you positive that your neighbor has his own meter - craig c. that must be it! .

From : azwiley1

however to your point i only notice the smell when i have a decent amount of weight in the back over a few hundred lbs. when the bed is empty or there is minimal weight theres no smell and brake pedal travel seems normal. ill agree with snoman to a point about suspecting the e-brake. simple test... with the truck loaded jack up the rear just one wheel if you have an open diff - if you have a limited slip youll need to raise both rear tires and with the truck in neutral see if the rear wheels will turn freely. or you can simply disconnect the e-brake cable at the adjuster along the drivers side frame rail about half-way between the cab and the rear axle. loosen the adjuster nut until you can disconnect the cable. tie it up so it doesnt drag and test-drive the truck. you can also crawl under the truck and take a good look at the e-brake cable then have a few friends jump in the bed and see if the cable tightens up or is otherwise fouled. as for the comments about getting a bigger truck no doubt with a big-block gas engine and super-low gearing in the rear axle well... ignore that part. an 02 dak is more than capable of hauling 400lbs. of cargo. another thought... does your truck have a load-sensing proportioning valve follow the flexible brake hose from the rear axle up to the frame rail. if theres a valve mounted there with an arm and a rod that runs down to the axle thats a proportioning valve. if you do have one id also throw some suspicion that way and in fact thats the more likely culprit than an e-brake cable getting hung up. that valves job is to sense the amount of weight in the bed and allow progressively more brake pressure to the rear brakes as the load increases. its possible that this valve is holding residual pressure in the system and causing your rear brakes to drag. of course if you dont have the valve described above ignore the comment. .

From : craig c

on aug 9 1140 am craig c. mcraig...@gmail.com wrote mac davis wrote that might cover a starter system that youd hate larry.. $15k will buy some nice equipment and get you well on the road to eliminating your electric bill depending on usage. my brother in ca is having a $60k system put in but after rebates and tax credits he figures that the net will be about $35k... unless your brother lives in a mansion with huge electric needs he is getting ripped off. his system doesnt use batteries and they add to the cost and take up space in tx a $60k system has batteries hybrid wind/solar setup with a gas/natural gas generator backup and it is off the grid on a normal sized home. a grid-tied system is *easy* to implement. little or no maintenance and theyre fairly cheap too $10k to get started and add panels as you can afford it if you are willing to do some of the work on your own. larry strikes me a doyr hed get off to a great start with $10-12k and could add panels little by little after that provided he purchases a nice sized inverter $3k - $5k. craig c. from what i have read about both with tep who i cant use and with trico it would cost me about 15k to get everything that is needed for a single home installed and running. i would get about half of that back in rebates and tax breaks. .

From : bigironram

on aug 9 125 pm snoman ad...@snoman.com wrote on thu 9 aug 2007 112004 -0400 tbone tbonenos...@nc.rr.com wrote markse...@optonline.net wrote it is an automatic so no clutch. its the same type of smell though. another thing that i notice is the heavier the payload the less travel i have on the brake pedal. i dont know if that is a safety feature reduction of brake time/making the brakes more sensitive. thanks! hmmm thats a tough one. no built in safety feature like that. the only real differance between empty and loaded is the height of the suspension. check and see of a line is pinched doubtfull. also check the emergency brake cables. see if they are getting stretched when loaded. that would activate the parking brake. i would also look at the rear axles and bearings. i would not waste time with axles and bearings. it simple sounds like user uses brakes aggressively and when extra weight is in the truck it takes more brake friction to stop it and this results in more heat which can overheat brakes and cause odor. the solution is get a bigger truck install bigger brakes carry less load or brake more conservatily when carrying extra weight. do not waste time witch hunting for other problems like axles and bearing that is not likely your problem anyway because it only does it overloaded. if bearing were bad and axles leaking it woul effect braking all the time. ----------------- thesnoman.com the user....being me...doesnt hit the breaks too hard at all when carrying a heavy load. the last time this occurred i was carrying no more than about 400 1lbs in the bed. i could definitely feel the travel reduced in the brake pedal even with that load being what it was. however to your point i only notice the smell when i have a decent amount of weight in the back over a few hundred lbs. when the bed is empty or there is minimal weight theres no smell and brake pedal travel seems normal. .

From : mac davis

dodge really ought to be ashamed to produce a truck with so many problems as mine and yours have but what to do is take the entire headliner out of the truck strip off the fabric go buy some of the new blanket-like micro weave fabric spray the headliner with art and crafts spray glue the kind that will dry-- you dont want the tacky stuff get help from a few friends. start applying the fabric in the middle spread it in all four directions and use a paint roller to press it down well --do not over- stretch it! let dry for two days turn it over and glue the edges cut em to fit all the way around. put the danged thing back into the truck and yer all done. did it myself a while back-- looks cool. .

From : mac davis

on wed 08 aug 2007 213501 -0700 azwiley1 wiley156@yahoo.com wrote ok so let me ask this if i were to replace the current ac unit with something larger 4 ton vice 3 ton and with a higher seer rating what brands would you recommend and why larry... you might want to figure out how many years the new unit would take to pay for itself in power savings... also have you considered mini-splits or are they not usable with your type of construction we love ours because with 4 units of different sizes we only cool the area that were in... that usually means not running the 1 ton unit in the guest room your fault or the 3 ton in the great room... otoh the 1 ton in our bedroom runs damn near 24/7 and the 2 ton in the shop runs all day... a central unit with selected room vents closed saves some but youre still cooling the ducts and stuff i would think.. mac please remove splinters before emailing .

From : mac davis

on wed 08 aug 2007 182525 -0700 miles nope@nopers.com wrote mac davis wrote we replaced a 5 or 6 year old energy star refrigerator with a slightly larger one and our electricity bill went down over $90 a month... paid for the damn frig in less than a year! $90/month just from the fridge my entire electric bill is only about $200/max in the summer and $50/winter. you must live in an area with some seriously expensive electricity!! well i used to miles.. calif. got raped by texas during the shortage hoax... typical bill in my old neighborhood fresno area was about $300 a month... in our case we got screwed twice because wed been conserving to the max for the 10 years that id lived there... when the rates more than doubled they offered a big discount to folks that cut their average use over 10% and a penalty for those that didnt.... we couldnt cut what was already to the bone so we were paying about $100 in penalties in addition to maybe $250 a month for the power.. the new frig knocked us down enough to not get penalized i think.. mac please remove splinters before emailing .

From : mac davis

on wed 08 aug 2007 120215 -0700 azwiley1 wiley156@yahoo.com wrote i personally would love to run solar hell with all the sun we get in az and with the fact the rear of my house is sun ladden 80% of the day it would be great! anyone got about 15k i can borrow that might cover a starter system that youd hate larry.. my brother in ca is having a $60k system put in but after rebates and tax credits he figures that the net will be about $35k... hell also save about $300 a month on electricity.. his system doesnt use batteries and they add to the cost and take up space mac please remove splinters before emailing .

From : tbone

marksegal@optonline.net wrote it is an automatic so no clutch. its the same type of smell though. another thing that i notice is the heavier the payload the less travel i have on the brake pedal. i dont know if that is a safety feature reduction of brake time/making the brakes more sensitive. thanks! hmmm thats a tough one. no built in safety feature like that. the only real differance between empty and loaded is the height of the suspension. check and see of a line is pinched doubtfull. also check the emergency brake cables. see if they are getting stretched when loaded. that would activate the parking brake. i would also look at the rear axles and bearings. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : miles

ok so let me ask this if i were to replace the current ac unit with something larger 4 ton vice 3 ton and with a higher seer rating what brands would you recommend and why as mike and many others have said bigger is not always better. what size is the one you have now and how long does it run on each cycle during the hottest part of the day as im sure that you know the bigger they are the more power they are going to use so unless your existing unit is running almost non-stop like mine then up-sizing it will save you nothing. now going to a higher seer rating will save you some money. its just a matter of how long it will take to pay you back with the cost of installation and the unit itself. that is the one advantage of a gas-pack unit that my house uses for the first floor it is self contained and installation costs are minimal. as for the manufacturer i really think that is a matter of personal opinion. while miles mentioned carrier iirc steve an hvac installer and business owner was not a huge fan of them. i would say that any of the major manufacturers such as rudd rheem carrier trane all have there advantages and disadvantages and your best bet would be to pick up the phone book and see what is the most popular in your area because that will give you the best chance of getting parts if and when it breaks down and possibly the best price due to competition. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : azwiley1

on aug 8 1106 pm .bob noneofyourbusin...@goaway.net wrote markse...@optonline.net wrote i am not a truck person so i apologize if i dont make much sense. either way..... i have a 2002 dakota v6 4x4 sxt that i got used about 6 months ago. one time i overloaded the truck. when i got it home a smell of burning brakes was coming from it. although i havent done that again when i am carrying anything of a decent weight 400+ lbs i smell that smell again to a certain extent. 1. whats going on 2. what did i do 3. how do i fix it what do i tell the mechanic to check thanks! do you have a clutch brake and clutch often smell the same. if it is brakes take them apart and see what they look like. are the pads glazed the rotor scorched and blued dirt and oil on the drums -- .bob 2006 fxdi hot rod 2001 dodge dakota qc 5.9/4x4/3.92 1966 mustang coupe - daily driver 1965 ffr cobra - 427w efi damn fast. it is an automatic so no clutch. its the same type of smell though. another thing that i notice is the heavier the payload the less travel i have on the brake pedal. i dont know if that is a safety feature reduction of brake time/making the brakes more sensitive. thanks! .

From : azwiley1

on aug 7 1209 pm craig c. mcraig...@gmail.com wrote azwiley1 wrote long and the short of it is this. got this months elec bill and it was outrageous for a family that is very energy wise. talk to neighbors with homes by the same builder bills ran from 200 - 900 bucks. what is the seer rating on your a/c unit do you have a lot of windows any tint or treatments used during the heat of the day programmable therm homes by different builer on next block in same community have bills that max out at 180! the seer can make a big difference. for example an 18 seer a/c unit is 59% more efficient than a 8 seer unit. different builders use different units. for example in my last house my builder coventry used rheem 10 seer units. the house next door was built by bradford. it had trane 13 seer units. sounds like you may have other things going on too ... like many windows. i put tint 2 blinds and programmable therms in my last house and it helped with the $400.00 per month bills those 10 seer units were creating. craig c. according to the manufacture and the info i have on the unit it is a 3 ton 13 seer. not a lot of windows but they are large so that makes it about the same. they are low-e rate i have added additional low-e film to they and am blocking about 75% of the incoming heat and uv. they have window treatments over 2 blinds and curtains them also that stay closed 90% of the time. remeber i am in az we have a lot of heat like i said earlier we are very energy wise all energy saving bulbs that get used maybe an hour or two a day at night gas vice elec dryer and range plus the window stuff mentioned above. .

From : tom lawrence

on aug 7 532 am tbone tbonenos...@nc.rr.com wrote isnt r-11 a little thin for arizona -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for ok let me ask this not looking for an exact answer 1550 sq single story 4 bed 12 celing in main rooms 8 - 10 in rest r-11 in the wall r-24 in the ceiling low e dual pain windows with additional window film to reduce as much heat gain as possible. 3 ton unit does this sound ok mind you i maybe a little off on some of the above figure but it is a 3 ton for sure.- hide quoted text - - show quoted text - i would think that r-11 is a little thin anywhere but according to the homes manufacture that is what is used. that is a whole nother issue. it is probably the minimum that code in your area requires and costs less. less cost results in increased profit for the builder and higher bills for you. without going into complicated calculations i would say that 3 ton is about right for your area and size of your house. if you already have the unit what do you have to lose by installing it i have a 2.5 ton gas pack cooling and heating my first floor and will be upsizing it to a 3 ton seer 13 or 15 myself either this fall or next spring. on 85 degree days it works just fine but on 92 and up days it runs for excessively long periods of time almost non-stop and these $300 power bills are getting to be a bit much. as tom said the real problem with over sizing is humidity control but that might not be much of a problem where you live especially if you are near the desert. here in nc it is much more of an issue but 1/2 ton is not going to reduce the run time excessively under normal days and will stop it from running non-stop when it get hot. the bigger the house the more wiggle room you have with upsizing. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : mac davis

on mon 06 aug 2007 191158 -0700 azwiley1 wiley156@yahoo.com wrote damn it guy! put your sock puppet away will ya! just hold on a bit. beryll should show up soon telling us why snoidiot isnt as big an idiot as we say......i think berryl thinks that snoidiot is just a normal idiot rather than a huge idiot ........and that will be shortly followed by tbone who will tell us that it is not nice to say naughty things about snoidiot and that it just makes us look bad to make fun of him so we should just say nice things. then some of us will be able to excercise a little bit and play with them. damn!! pal ya gotta out or something. looking at the crotch cannibal and the idiot as exercise there is nothing to it. t-bone on the other hand has gotta know he cracks me up when he trys to become the voice of reason.gbfg it really has nothing to do with the voice of reason and im glad that i make your day. no you dont make my day. although when you admonish somebody i do chuckle. the sad thing is that you guys are doing the very thing so many of you jumped on me for doing huh so im not going to say anything else about it. this i gotta see! vbg ill just sit back and laugh. there ya go! it is entertainment. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : tbone

if your question is can you use the automatic transfer case with the manual i dont know but i doubt it. the jeep is a viscous drive unit awd and the ram with the manual nv3500 has the low/high 2wd/4wd manual new departure unit. when acquiring the gearbox get the transfer case with it. then worst case is a ujoint change/ drive shaft mod and they are easy. remember you can sell those removed parts easily on ebay and use the money to offset the cost of the project. it is really what you want anyway. those viscous drives kill ujoints and mileage. does the jeep have the vacuum/electric front axle disengagement mechanism like the 1500 ram steve anyone have any experience with transfer case swaps between autos and manuals or between jeep and dodge does a dodge transfer case from an auto trans bolt to a manual trans and vice versa. im pretty sure it does on jeeps. can transfer cases be swapped between similar jeep and dodge vehicles like from a dodge 46re to a jeep 46re i thought there might be a clocking/bolt pattern difference between jeep and dodge. were many or any dodge daks or rams 4wds equipped with awd transfer cases rather than the lo/hi/2wd/4wd type i looked at one of our company dak 4wd trucks today and couldnt see any type of shifter except the auto shifter on the column. i was only looking through the window though. i believe it was a brand new truck. .

From : greg o

concordca police ron turner is a fucken dirty black pig cop who stops people that have 820lbs. in a f150 and first the cop called for chp portable scale to get the wt of my truck he could not get one then he had me go to the chp truck scale on the hwy to get the wt of my truck no one was there then he had me go to moving co. and had me drive on there scale to get wt of my truck with me in it . the scale said i was not over wt. but he gave me a ticket for overloaded tire load range . total wt. in the truck was me and 2 boxes = 820lbs. just before he let me go he told me to strip with 2 backup girl cops and then gave me a ticket for overloaded tire load range. got to court i showed him how to do the math on the tire load range and he walks up to the judge and says all charges dropped. ron tuner who is 300lb black dirty pig cop needs to go concord police department officer ron turner is a dirty black cop that needs to move to iraq and wear a usa military uniform. toilets police employees in concord california filed a $30 million lawsuit against the concord police department after they found a hidden in the restroom. .

From : azwiley1

ok let me ask this not looking for an exact answer 1550 sq single story 4 bed 12 celing in main rooms 8 - 10 in rest r-11 in the wall r-24 in the ceiling low e dual pain windows with additional window film to reduce as much heat gain as possible. 3 ton unit does this sound ok mind you i maybe a little off on some of the above figure but it is a 3 ton for sure. where at not all of us are up on locations! 3 ton seems reasonable. are you replacing installing new existing not keeping up greg .

From : chris thompson

on mon 06 aug 2007 191158 -0700 azwiley1 wiley156@yahoo.com wrote damn it guy! put your sock puppet away will ya! just hold on a bit. beryll should show up soon telling us why snoidiot isnt as big an idiot as we say......i think berryl thinks that snoidiot is just a normal idiot rather than a huge idiot .........and that will be shortly followed by tbone who will tell us that it is not nice to say naughty things about snoidiot and that it just makes us look bad to make fun of him so we should just say nice things. then some of us will be able to excercise a little bit and play with them. .

From : azwiley1

in response to greg o s post. i thought everyone should know is there a standard for the proper sizing of an ac/hvac unit to a home meaning if you have a 1600 sq ft single story you should have if you have a 2200 sq ft two story you should have count the doorknobs and divided by 7. about as close as anyones guess! the only accurate way to know is to have a manual j calc done. other than that a very experienced hvac tech can give you a wag and get pretty close to! i have seen 1600 square foot homes with 2 tons of ac that was to much and 2200 square foot homes with 5 tons that was too small! greg your r-value and ceiling heights go into the factor too. i was shown how to figure it out once when i was looking at house plans so i could use that as a havc cost guide when considering the building plans. i forget how it works but mike hit all the high points best i can remember. stuff like ceiling trays and vaults go into the factors too. that would fall under the cubic foot of air volume to be climate controlled. -- chris .

From : roy

you fools are just too much! not only does snojob give out deadly advise that will get people killed of they follow it on a bunch of groups i have had the misfortune of the fucker stalking me on he now has total bullshit back up! he/it just must love the abuse for his bs there can be no other reason for a sane person posting. read the original post!!!! mike he hasnt shown up here in over a month. i chopped the cross post. roy to quote on startup ammeter needle swings from full charge to midrange. loud squealing when ammeter needle swings to full charge. end quote. the op has a squeal on start up not a whine when running! mike 86/00 cj7 laredo 33x9.5 bfg muds glass nose to tail in 00 88 cherokee 235 bfg ats - gone to the rust pile... canadian off road trips photos non members can still view! jan/06 http//www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.htmlid=2115147590 more off road album links at bottom of the view page wonderbreath wrote and again from a third source confirms this whining a whining noise can be caused by shorted diodes or stator or by a dry rotor bearing. a quick way to test for the cause of a whining sound is to disconnect the wiring to the generator. then start and run the engine. if the noise is not there the cause of the noise is a magnetic whine due to shorted diodes or stator windings. use a scope to verify the condition of the diodes and stator. if the noise remains the cause is mechanical and probably due to worn bearings. dont have the url handy its from the autozone site snoman admin@snoman.com wrote in 4ax.com on 5 aug 2007 164302 +0200 wonderbreath wonderbreath@madeup.org wrote he explained that when a diode fails the unbalance in the alternator magnetic circuit causes the whine. about 6 months later the alternator had to be replaced and of course the noise was gone. this is true usually in the form of a loud whine that varies with rpm. alternators are 3 phase delta wound and have 6 output diodes for full wave rectification of each phase. when you loose one output will drop some. if you have access to a scope you can find/verify a bad output diodes in a flash ----------------- thesnoman.com .

From : azwiley1

roy wrote roy wrote so do you work for amtrak in boston roy yup - that being so i probably know you. what do you do how long you been working there so whats with amtrak i tried to put my bike aboard the vermonter from dc to amherst ma for a bike tour i recently completed and they no longer take bikes or even any sort of checked baggage! probably no baggage car on the train. some years ago i threw my touring bike on the vermonter in amherst and rode up to st albans on the vt/quebec border to ride home and it was no problem and only $5 for the bike and a great experience over all. was hoping to do the same from dc but not no mo! so much for mixing bikes and trains. bummer! until they fund amtrak properly it is destined to be hit or miss. roy smh .

From : mike simmons

the hyper pac was an early 1960 option that consisted of headers hotter camshaft and a 4bbl manifold. probably a few other things but the 3 mentioned were the main stuff. for some reason i thought it had multiple carbs. oh well. are you saying that you might be wrong!!! and you call yourself a buddist! -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : greg o

z88z wrote slightly confused on this issue. are ld and hd trucks based on model designations like dakota and 1500 are ld 2500 and 3500 are hd or does this have more to do with various options available on any truck like engine/transmission/axle ratios or is it more suspension related more importantly were gas 5.9s available in both ld and hd trucks were both available in either 2wd or 4wd were 5 speeds available in both designations and were there gear ratios between the two different is the engine mapping different from ld to hd and if so which pcm is more suitable for performance applications roy joanie pulled the pin last year. paul fawkes folksie and ron saltys too. some real good folks left. joanie was good friends with my wife many years ago when they worked on board together. i think jb was the longest serving female engineer in the northeast and maybe the country! chris perrone passed away last year. he was the one that dressed like the engineers of days gone by i heard about chris. dont forget doug kidd regards manner of dress. im sure id know you if i saw you. i rode the acelas for bombardier out of bos from 2001 to 2003. then amtrak hsr mechanical 2003 to 2004 my coworkers were randy gould and martin flaherty both returned to mbcr since then i know randy very well but im a lot closer to his brother in law kevin lydon. marty is one hell of a smart guy can fix about anything. you probably should have jumped to mbcr yourself. they probably are looking for engineers with the oc opening up more. then there are a number of folks leaving in the next year. went into the engineer training program in march 2005 and got set up nov 1 2006. the t actually wants amtrak back. not too happy with mbcr. dont believe all you hear. when i left the t wanted to extend the contract with mbcr for another 3 years. why would the t want to deal with a company that cant make a operational decision without a bunch of calls to a m/t suit in philly they will never revisit amtrak and all the labor problems they had to deal with. with the t it is all politics. we finally got a contract proposal after 7 years without one. itll get voted down though. no back pay etc. the amtrak police signed theirs. they took a beating. as long as amtrak can run and get a presidential e board you wont get anything worthwhile. if you see 2% a year id be surprised. mbcr was 25% over 5 years medical stayed the same one of the best contracts that have been ever been signed. on that vein see if you can find out how much management increasess were over that same 7 years. .

From : azwiley1

on aug 8 1254 pm craig c. mcraig...@gmail.com wrote larry i dont know where in az you are but if you are in tucson this company http//www.solarstore.com/gridtiedsystems.html has some financial incentives that are being offered by tep. at the bottom of the page you will see a link to hardware buy down. it appears that tep will pick up $2k of the costs in some cases. if you arent in az a quick search on solar plus the name of your electric company may reveal some free moola. craig c. craig c. wrote azwiley1 wrote i personally would love to run solar hell with all the sun we get in az and with the fact the rear of my house is sun ladden 80% of the day it would be great! anyone got about 15k i can borrow it isnt an all-or-nothing proposition. you can start slowly and build your way up using the grid as a battery. during the day you are spinning the meter backwards and at night spinning it forwards. kinda using the grid as a storage facility for your power. at the end of the month if you crammed more into the grid than you have removed ... voila! a check from from your electric company made out to you. if not you pay the difference. you have to get a meter that tracks and allows and you to channel electricity back into the grid. you should be able to get that through your electric company. you will need to purchase the inverters and other equipment to start however you do not have to purchase all of your solar panels at one time which is the largest cost. you can add them as you get the $$ and time to install. depending on brand name and wattage panels plus hardware will cost you anywhere from $400 to $1000 each 110w panels. start with 3-4 panels. depending on your usage that should get you a 10%-30% drop in your bill. add a panel or two every month and before long the electric company is paying you. this site is pretty good http//www.siliconsolar.com/ but ... there are hundreds of web sites. in your area of the country i imagine you have retail outlets for solar parts. craig c.- hide quoted text - - show quoted text - i am in az but tep is not my power company it is trico. i have looked in to it with them and unless there is more then what i saw you have to do it all or nothing. hmmmm....dont they make windshield wiper blades .

From : craig c

on tue 7 aug 2007 154745 -0400 tom lawrence tnooms4p8a8m@meimnbgaarlqlmoawield.com wrote trying to figure out what the hell is going on. i know there can be a lot of factors but i have to start at group and work up the ac is the most likely culprit but dont overlook other things. a little clamp-on ammeter can help you diagnose things. for example a friend of mine had a bill one month double his previous months bill... turned out he had a bad dehumidifer where the humidostat went on it causing it to run all the time. turn off everything in the house that you can and check your run-rate on your meter hopefully you have one of the newer meters with digital readouts so you can get a base kw/hr number. then kick the cac on and see what its drawing - see if that jives with the data plates on the compressor and air handlers. i remember back in ca where electricity is more expensive than diamonds we were spending about $25 a month more than the average in the neighborhood though we conserve and most there didnt... we replaced a 5 or 6 year old energy star refrigerator with a slightly larger one and our electricity bill went down over $90 a month... paid for the damn frig in less than a year! now were bitching about running the ac a lot and having to pay $125 for electricity last month... almost like living in a foreign country! mac please remove splinters before emailing .

From : craig c

sorry to keep asking stupid questions but can any body tell me what the difference is between the hall effect sensor and the cam position sensor is and where they are located on a 1999 ram 2500 with 5.9 gas engine .

From : azwiley1

larry i dont know where in az you are but if you are in tucson this company http//www.solarstore.com/gridtiedsystems.html has some financial incentives that are being offered by tep. at the bottom of the page you will see a link to hardware buy down. it appears that tep will pick up $2k of the costs in some cases. if you arent in az a quick search on solar plus the name of your electric company may reveal some free moola. craig c. craig c. wrote azwiley1 wrote i personally would love to run solar hell with all the sun we get in az and with the fact the rear of my house is sun ladden 80% of the day it would be great! anyone got about 15k i can borrow it isnt an all-or-nothing proposition. you can start slowly and build your way up using the grid as a battery. during the day you are spinning the meter backwards and at night spinning it forwards. kinda using the grid as a storage facility for your power. at the end of the month if you crammed more into the grid than you have removed ... voila! a check from from your electric company made out to you. if not you pay the difference. you have to get a meter that tracks and allows and you to channel electricity back into the grid. you should be able to get that through your electric company. you will need to purchase the inverters and other equipment to start however you do not have to purchase all of your solar panels at one time which is the largest cost. you can add them as you get the $$ and time to install. depending on brand name and wattage panels plus hardware will cost you anywhere from $400 to $1000 each 110w panels. start with 3-4 panels. depending on your usage that should get you a 10%-30% drop in your bill. add a panel or two every month and before long the electric company is paying you. this site is pretty good http//www.siliconsolar.com/ but ... there are hundreds of web sites. in your area of the country i imagine you have retail outlets for solar parts. craig c. .

From : azwiley1

on aug 8 738 am craig c. mcraig...@gmail.com wrote miles wrote expense of the higher rated unit. paybacks on lower bills would have been too long for me. paybacks can take a while when upgrading. however as we have touched on previously money is not the only consideration in upgrading to more efficient technology. the higher the seer the more efficient the unit. that opens up many more possibilities. like running your home on solar panels or wind generators. if this type of alternative energy is not your bag and the power plant you are using burns coal a more efficient unit means less air and water pollutant. pollution is a hidden cost. you are paying for it whether you know it or not. craig c. i personally would love to run solar hell with all the sun we get in az and with the fact the rear of my house is sun ladden 80% of the day it would be great! anyone got about 15k i can borrow .

From : tbone

i have 354000 on my diesel engine and it is running great. how long does a cummins usally last .

From : mac davis

on aug 8 723 am tbone tbonenos...@nc.rr.com wrote when i posted that the post where you answered those questions was not available to me yet. sure! vbg .

From : tbone

today it wont start. its been acting up all week and she waits until it wont start to say something to me! i pulled it and checked everything i could. borrowed a code tester and am getting code p0340. how do i test camshaft sensor to confirm its getting power and is working properly it really makes no difference how old the timing light is only that it works. you are not attempting to set the timing here only looking to see if you are getting a spark and if it is consistent. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving will any timing light work or does it need to be fairly new mine is probably 30 years old. we have checked for arching though. i dont know if it makes a differnce but the truck was actually manufactored on dec 1999. then the next step is to put a timing light on it and make sure that it is getting spark and that it is firing properly. you might also want to crank it at night and look for any arcing especially from the coil wire. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving did she have a fuel pressure check done on it yes she did. im not sure of the reading but was told it was fine -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving my wife 2000 ram 4x4 with a 360. it will not start in wet weather. she has changed the cam sensor cap and rotor the crank position sensor was changed a year ago. ive suggested she try plugs and wires but she claims that they are good. dont ask how she knows any suggestions. she had a scan tool on it and said that told her to change the cam sensor but she doesnt know the specific codes anymore. .

From : azwiley1

on aug 4 925pm the...@whatever.net wrote on sat 04 aug 2007 201211 -0700 marsh monster marshmonster2...@aol.com wrote ======== ======== on aug 4 520pm the...@whatever.net wrote just wondering what the heck is going on snotroll came in to educate us all. now where did he go to then beryll came in to save snotroll. i mean he came in with a whole head of steam but it sure seems like he didnt last long around here. there is just no one to play with right now. getting boring. now i am sure that most of you are pleased that they dont come out to play anymore but i sort of miss them. i actually thought that beryll had taken a shine of sorts to larry. ah....what the heck. ill just wait around for the next hero to show up i guess. ======= ======= fk u fk u rt bk. marsh sips his shroom juice......dons his flame resistant weldn smock on backwards...slips into his snap-on slip resistant gloves...pulls down the flash-shield on his weldn helment.. pours a shroom tea fer the adversary... boredom kills....im off to save the day.... - hide quoted text - - show quoted text -- hide quoted text - - show quoted text - =========== =========== now youve done it!!! created a 400 reply thread marsh rips the lid off the ten yr. old. mason jar with his teeth...takes a slug of his aged shroom tea.....dons his uv glasss grabs his uv light douses the foe with dye.......and crushs out the light bulb with his snap-on slip resistant protected super hand....... blind the enemy......win the war .

From : greg o

on aug 7 1216 pm tbone tbonenos...@nc.rr.com wrote as you said there are a lot of factors. what is the seer rating of the existing unit does the unit have and is using a dry-air mode as mac stated they re-heat the air to remove humidity and use about twice the electricity to do it. you only have r11 insulation in the walls and that in a word - sucks! was the house even wrapped before the siding was installed what kind of windows do you have are they at least dual-glazed are they low-e type glass. if not i would suggest at a minimum a low-e solar film. you probably could also add another layer of insulation in that attic. i would also look for air leaks around those windows and external doors. does this house have a crawl space basement or on a slab if it has a crawl space i would check the insulation and vapor barrier under there as well. a larger ac unit will probably not save you any real money if your heat gain is way up there and the rapid cycling of the unit will shorten its life as well. perhaps you might want to have an energy audit done. damn tbone did you read any of the other posts i made i answered a lot the questions you asked about seer about windows about low-e about tints/film window coverings. .

From : azwiley1

as you said there are a lot of factors. what is the seer rating of the existing unit does the unit have and is using a dry-air mode as mac stated they re-heat the air to remove humidity and use about twice the electricity to do it. you only have r11 insulation in the walls and that in a word - sucks! was the house even wrapped before the siding was installed what kind of windows do you have are they at least dual-glazed are they low-e type glass. if not i would suggest at a minimum a low-e solar film. you probably could also add another layer of insulation in that attic. i would also look for air leaks around those windows and external doors. does this house have a crawl space basement or on a slab if it has a crawl space i would check the insulation and vapor barrier under there as well. a larger ac unit will probably not save you any real money if your heat gain is way up there and the rapid cycling of the unit will shorten its life as well. perhaps you might want to have an energy audit done. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving long and the short of it is this. got this months elec bill and it was outrageous for a family that is very energy wise. talk to neighbors with homes by the same builder bills ran from 200 - 900 bucks. all the single stories have the same make/model ac two stories has same make different model. homes by different builer on next block in same community have bills that max out at 180! trying to figure out what the hell is going on. i know there can be a lot of factors but i have to start at group and work up .

From : big al

on mon 06 aug 2007 170604 -0700 azwiley1 wiley156@yahoo.com wrote is there a standard for the proper sizing of an ac/hvac unit to a home meaning if you have a 1600 sq ft single story you should have if you have a 2200 sq ft two story you should have larry... i cant give you specs but i found that in a high humidity place like we and you live in the builder could have put in smaller units.. we keep the setting pretty high for most folks 29 or 30c or about 84 or 86f... the mini split in the shop is 2 ton and i flip it on in the morning when the shop is maybe 90.... it gets the room down to 86 so fast that the ac isnt running long enough to dry the air... most folks that dont plan of hanging meat in their living room prefer a smaller unit that runs more often... might be more efficient that way too dunno.. note use of the dry cycle on the ac isnt recommended unless you rent and the landlord pays the utilities... afaik ours is running both the heat and ac to dry the air and the electric meter spins really fast.. mac please remove splinters before emailing .

From : tom lawrence

z88z wrote slightly confused on this issue. are ld and hd trucks based on model designations like dakota and 1500 are ld 2500 and 3500 are hd or does this have more to do with various options available on any truck like engine/transmission/axle ratios or is it more suspension related more importantly were gas 5.9s available in both ld and hd trucks were both available in either 2wd or 4wd were 5 speeds available in both designations and were there gear ratios between the two different is the engine mapping different from ld to hd and if so which pcm is more suitable for performance applications stephen h yes unfortunately that seems to be a pattern here. trying to increase the ridership while taking away services and amenitites at the same time. it might have been the lack of a baggage car for that trip though. roy just got a copy of a letter that was sent to our negotiators explaining our displeasure and asking that jimmy hoffa get involved. you knew we became ble-t right the t being for teamsters. i think that was while you were still here. tomorrow night is the big union meeting. well see what happens. yup my brother in law is a engineer with mbcr yes doug k is certainly one of a kind - interesting you should mention his name. doug was working as a fireman with the father of my current landlords when the father retired in 84. i have been staying with some good friends a family in dedham since i went into the engineer training program. the woman of the house is the daughter of ray civvy civaterese. you probably know him. no shit!! the lady that rides a motorcycle and is probably still smoking. make sure you tell her i said hello. i talked to her every night before she boarded the last franklin local. ask her how her shoulder is. i hadnt seen her since last sept when i tore my shoulder up at work then i was out until the last week of march and returned to work for 3 days and retired. her dad ive known since 1972 one hell of a nice guy and a hell of a hogger. he started out as a fireman with the b&m in steam days and was one of the first b&m engineers to come south side when amtrak took over commuter service. a lot of people that cant place the name remember him as the guy that kept the garden at south station near track 1 before the high platforms were built. dan obrien remembers him. yup he did the planters around 1985-86 iirc mabey before. you must know danny too. ive also known dan for about 35 years as well you want to get his attention call him veronica he hasnt heard it for some time. hows his father he was a heck of a nice guy. mbcr gen foreman then to amtrak and hsr before he went to engine school. ray is doing ok but he doesnt walk around too easily now. still has his greenhouse and plenty of flowers. grows extra for the school to sell at their money raising fair. doug dresses pretty normal now. there is nothing normal regarding doug. i had a regular run on saturdays with doug dean davidson and johnny newman on an acela. i was surprised to find out all four of us had experience working with steam locos at various museums. mine was at the gold coast rr museum in miami from 91 til 94 when we moved back up here. hurricane andrew mowed that place down when i was there but most of the equipment survived and i guess it has been rebuilt better than it ever was. lots of new equipment now too. e & f units etc. dean and john were a fun group and great conductors but dean in particular hated the newfangled trains. i used to joke that hed rather be on the inland route where they still run wooden coaches and make coal stops. marty flaherty is a great guy and a good friend. ive known him since about 95 or 96 when we worked as subcontractors for kawasaki on the 5 year rebuild at the old improtek site. our careers always overlapped since then. he went to readville as an electrician then became a foreman at some p

From : craig c

azwiley1 wrote like i said earlier we are very energy wise all energy saving bulbs that get used maybe an hour or two a day at night gas vice elec dryer and range plus the window stuff mentioned above. are you positive that your neighbor has his own meter - craig c. .

From : tbone

concordca // spam s n i p here // awwww shuddup crybaby....... bwahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh .

From : azwiley1

http//www.warmair.com/html/acc.shtml .

From : tom lawrence

ok let me ask this not looking for an exact answer 1550 sq single story 4 bed 12 celing in main rooms 8 - 10 in rest r-11 in the wall r-24 in the ceiling low e dual pain windows with additional window film to reduce as much heat gain as possible. 3 ton unit does this sound ok mind you i maybe a little off on some of the above figure but it is a 3 ton for sure. .

From : tbone

work between the t and the amtrak workers on the acses installation. tough gig at first. worked for dick house but they thought i was neil mullaneys spy so i got a hard time. lots of senior guys and union reps there cronan etc. and that was right around the time they were close to a strike. i was there for some of that. ya gott understand neil is a pig! i can tell ya more stories about that asshole. he is the best example of why unions are need on that property. after a while they realized i wasnt there to hurt them and we became good friends. dick house used to give me a heads up to pass on to them when we were having a surprise inspection! that helped smooth things. met some great people pat robinson rich coakley lyons parker and a whole bunch more that i still see at south station. pat robinson - talk about an all around genius! pat is a close personal friend of mine he lives about a mile from me in ma. im in fl now please tell pat i was asking for him. he can tell ya some stories. i had to council him many times. if you are talking about denny parker the piper he just had a massive heart attack a week ago. i havent heard how it all turned out. taking the readville shuttle home from that gig i ran into the bombardier guys at south station doing the acela startup. i had worked with most of them in 94-95 as my first job in the subcontract business doing the red line 1800 series cars. found out they needed trainriders around the same time my qa job ended so i went to bombardier. by that time marty f was a general foreman at hsr. when the bombardier job ended i went to amtrak as a qa inspector and my fellow qais were marty randy and the well known mike fraites. mike worked for me at a couple of outside points. had to resort to old school railroading to get him into line. he was fired a couple of years ago at amtrak. within a month or two randy and marty went to mbcr and mike left the business thats all ill say on that the other guys did the qa job as inspectors at the facility but they hired me mainly as station protect for the morning acela runs. thats what i did for bomb the last few months after the trainrider program ended. i did the whole boston hsr q&a thing by myself for about nine months working with chris furtado as the hsr gm i think that was the title after paul cottam retired. there are two people you can never trust. i saw chris on his knees tying a managers shoe for him. cottam was a lying pos. i understand he was told to leave. they liked my work and knew me all the way to ny and dc. they promised me id have a job when the qai jobs dried up as necmsc bomb & alsthoms hsr management group was being phased out but i got passed over for a job or two so i went to engine school. if you visit the railroad look me up. ill be the one that went to school for 11 weeks and trained for 16 months just to end up doing 5 mph and occasionally 15mph most of it backwards! actually i occasionally can hold a spare board position. nothing like doing 125 or 150mph and its legal! - this site is one of the best ones for good informative responses thanks to steve lusardi tbone and a bunch more. there is a ton of info here on just about anything. ya have to wade through some bs to get it at times but it there. hell when im going back and forth between fl and ma i get a traffic report for dc from one of the guys. roy take care john . 222 337953 iaadnr2tja5fsyxbnz2dnuvzvamnz2d@giga.com z88z wrote anyone have any experience with transfer case swaps between auto and manuals or between jeep and dodge does a dodge transfer case from an auto trans bolt to a manua trans and vice versa. im pretty sure it does on jeeps. can transfer cases be swapped between similar jeep and dodg vehicles like from a dodge 46re to a jeep 46re i thought there might be a clocking/bolt pattern difference between jeep and dodge. were many or any dodge daks or rams 4wds equipped with aw transfer cases rather than the lo/hi/2wd/4wd type i looked at on of our company dak 4wd trucks today and couldnt see any type o shifter except the auto shifter on the column. i was only lookin through the window though. i believe it was a brand new truck this is one of the mor responsive and informative forums ive found - things are looking good for this zj 5.9/5spd/4wd swap. looks lik the only fab or custom work would be trans x-member d/shafts an maybe the tc linkage. maybe less than that if i look around still looking at that pcm vin thing but im starting to think tha inspection issue isnt as big a deal as i thought it was true - if i just keep the tc that comes with the nv trans then i isnt an issue but it would be nice info to have - whether there is clocking issues swapping tcs dodge to jeep. that is - the bolt pattern or spacing may not be the same. ill try tha question on the jeep forums too. is the 4low gearing an int

From : craig c

trying to figure out what the hell is going on. i know there can be a lot of factors but i have to start at group and work up the ac is the most likely culprit but dont overlook other things. a little clamp-on ammeter can help you diagnose things. for example a friend of mine had a bill one month double his previous months bill... turned out he had a bad dehumidifer where the humidostat went on it causing it to run all the time. turn off everything in the house that you can and check your run-rate on your meter hopefully you have one of the newer meters with digital readouts so you can get a base kw/hr number. then kick the cac on and see what its drawing - see if that jives with the data plates on the compressor and air handlers. .