P0441 code
From : us
Q: then after that investment is made you do the exhaust intercooler manifold air filter fass fuel lines gauges electronics injectors and maybe even the turbo as this is a 2nd gen machine. steve hes not looking to build the next sidewinder truck... hes looking for another 90hp or so. his exhaust will be adequate though id probably yank the muffler and straight-pipe it - intercooler is perfectly adequate manifold assuming youre talking about the exhaust manifold is fine - an ats 3-piece would be nice but certainly not necessary. the stock air filter is still capable of flowing enough air for that hp level... its not great and there are certainly better intakes available but again - its adequate for the intended application. lets see what else... fass. well a pusher pump definately. the fass is certainly a nice product and i have one on my truck but a $250-$300 pusher pump kit at about half the cost of the fass is plenty for this application. fuel lines again the stock lines are capable of flowing more than enough fuel for this. some of the pusher pump kits come with fittings to replace the restrictive banjo bolts which is all thats really needed and probably overkill for this application. gauges absolutely. an egt gauge is mandatory. so is a fuel pressure gauge given that this is a 2nd gen truck. a boost gauge is nice but not absolutely required although at about $50 why not. electronics sure - thats where the additional 90hp will come from. injectors nah... the stockers can flow enough. turbo again stock is up to the task. remember hes got an hx35 turbo which can handle more power than your hy35 can. even still remember that cummins equipped the 305hp engine with the hy35... hes not looking to go much beyond that. you would probably be better off starting with a new machine. these are expensive trucks. all he wants is a little more power and youre suggesting buying a whole new truck i have no idea where this $2-3000 estimate is coming from but you are way off the mark. not really. $1500 or so in transmission upgrades and thats on the high end with a new tc and vb - could probably get away with a $300 pressurelok box from bd to up the line pressure and save the other $1200 for a completely re-built tranny down the line. $550 or so for the fueling box. $300 or so for a pusher pump and about $200-$250 in gauges/mounts. even with the tranny parts which can also be recycled into a new rebuilt core thats under $3k. i have a new 04 555 ho 3500 6 speed dually that i did all this to. i performed all the labor myself and im looking at something slightly friendlier than 50k as did i on an 03 auto. ive spent under $10k in total and an putting down a little over 500hp at the wheels. about half of that was just the tranny. if i had a 6spd my total cost would have been under $7k. .
Replies:
From : us
tbone wrote be a gas fireplace installed. you may want to rethink the gas fireplace unless it is for asthetics only. as i understand it they are super inefficient for heat. try a pellet stove ive had them in both houses and the are fantastic. there you would be wrong. wood fireplaces are very inefficient because they vent most of their heat to the outside. most gas fireplaces not converted wood burners are ventless and near 100% efficient. had a wood burner in nj and you really had to stoke it up to get any heat out of it. have a gas propane one here and it will cook you out of the room on low in short order unless you keep the doors to the room open and even then... thats not my experience .............. ive got a cast iron fireplace insert type that protrudes about 14 inches out from the front of the fire place and that thing will burn us out of the house with only a few logs. it might not be 100% efficient but it only costs me a few gallons of gas to run the chain saw to operate the thing all winter. im told the pellet stoves are very good at heating a home. even if i buy my wood at $30 a rick it still is half the cost to what it would cost to heat through the winter burning gas. jerry .
From : buster
on fri 07 jan 2005 142957 gmt transurgeon nobulltrans@mchsi.dotcom wrote i replaced the batterys on my 97 turbo diesel last weekend. they were the original from-the-factory units so i expect after 170000 miles they were due for replacement. the truck wouldnt crank on a couple of cold mornings recently though although after i charged them up - everything seemed to work fine at least for another few weeks until the next time it wouldnt start. so the sears die-hard guy tells me i need an alternator replacement. he gives me this little printout of a test that indicates that the alternator has a bad waveform and needs replacement. his mechanic can do it later in the day with a napa alternator. i passed. from all indications i have the alternator is fine. the voltmeter fluctuates a but when cold - i presume due to the air heat grid - but after the engine warms it stays rock solid at slightly over 14 .
From : gary
i just buy a dakota 1999 3.9l v6 with 85000 miles and i dont know what oil is good for my new engine. is a shell helix 5w-40 the right one an other question is what fuel uses this truck here we have 93 95 and 97 octans is the 95 ok and finaly what is the milleage that i can expect from this truck thanks in advance. chris. youre going to have alot more to worry about other than the correct oil and gas. i own one of these lemons and from the first week i owned it bought new it has been back to the dealer about once a month while under warranty and ive lost count how many times since. ive spent thousands wheel bearings ball joints waterpump etc. and the problems continue. id sell this pile of junk but no one will touch it with tranfer case fluid running out of it. tranfer case just disintegrated with hairline cracks all over it do yourself a favor and trade for a toyota. .
From : us
doitmyself1 wrote well...crap on ice guys. was just looking for an honest opinion as we cannot all be knowledgeable in everything. my mistake.... there are a few people in here that a pretty well up on transmission and i thought they would have chimed in by now. however couple of things. you didnt say where you live but odds are it is pretty cold now where you are because it damn sure is cold where im at. you have a four speed automatic with the overdrive button you mention being capable of locking out 4th overdrive when activated. i would think what you are actually seeing is a shifting into 3rd but not into 4th overdrive lockup because the transmission is not up to operating temperature. your owners manual will explain this to you if you take the time to look it up. next time you start up in the morning start with the transmission in neutral and let it warm up for 10-15 minutes before driving. get into the habit of always starting in neutral not in park as the transmission will warm up faster. you also didnt say when the transmission was last serviced but if you have never serviced it you are way way over due and should take care of that asap. jerry .
From : us
jim hall wrote yofuri yofuri@oakharbor.net wrote does the trace resemble this http//www.globalsecurity.org/military/agency/navy/hs-2.htm uh..no. it didnt look anything like helicopter anti-submarine squadrons as a matter of fact. i didnt get a trace to look at. just a printout with the message that there was a bad waveform and the alternator needed replacement. thanks for the insight. long tails or blanks indicate bad diodes or windings. there are three windings connected to six diodes. a fault in any winding or diode set will cost you 33.333% of your alternator output current. jim hall 520 exc 950 lc8 adventure turning money into noise... oops! sorry about that! http//www.picotech.com/auto/waveforms/alternatorac.html id recommend a second opinion. rick .
From : nosey
i got a 93 dakota 4x4 318 it is a great truck its got 180 on it the transmission leaking in the front could it be the front seal a transmission man told me that it was building up presser inside and blowing out the vint hole in the front the transmission shifts fine chuck .
From : us
us wrote we drove into yuma today and filled up with gas. the light is still on. is there away to reset it you say a month or so does it just reset itself eventually thanks again i beleive its 3 sucessful drive cycles without detecting the error. .
From : billygoat
and this statement helps in what way | good grief. | | | i have a 98 dakota 4 x 4 automatic 3.9l v6 with 73000 miles. lately | when the engine and tranny i suppose is cold the transmission resists | shifting into drive. it shifts normally from 1 2 butfrom 2 3 the | rpms will surge past 3000 before i let off the accelerator and coast along | at perhaps 20mph. after a few attempts at accelerationit does then | shift into normal drive 3. no problems downshifting. the problem then | does not repeat until i once again start off with a cold engine. there is | a manual od off switch which i never use no towing heavy loads or | hills | to deal with. i did have to add 3/4 a quart of fluid this past summer | but see no leaks on driveway. is this a vacuum leak will a simple trans | oil and filter change offer help or flushing do i need to replace the | vacuum modulator or perhaps i should try the fluid and filter change | first to see if that helps. any advice or experience with this problem | will be greatly appreciated. i have read somewhere about tranny fluid | escaping past a seal into the engine from the modulator and this would | explain my not seeing any leaks when i discovered a low trans fluid | problem this summer. apparently the tranny fluid can soften vacuum | hoses...does any of this make sense thanks dave | | | .
From : gary
face it - you are clueless. then so are you since you agree with what i said no max he did not. you clearly stated many times that there is no voltage drop and then tried to back it up by listing the batteries cca and the alternators current capabilities against the current draw of the bulbs to prove your point. the fact that you are doing this this is very unlikely but if the system has .24 ohms resistance the total circuit resistance per bulb would now be 2.64 ohms. 12 volts on 2.64 ohms yeilds 12/2.64= 4.54 amps. apply ohms law and the bulb sees ixr=4.54x2.4=10.896 volts. the resistance sees ixr = 4.45x.24=1.0896 volts. this math is overly conservative and somewhat in error. the problem is that most of the circuit up to the y splice including the wire sees both bulbs and double the current than was assumed for the voltage drop calcultation. he also forgot to include the multi-function switch and numerous connections which can significantly increase the resistance of the headlight circuit. as i said and you repeated seeing 11v at the lamp is very unlikely. your math proves that to be correct. no you said that there was no voltage drop possible many times in this thread which was completely wrong. now you are trying to spin it to say that the voltage drop would have no effect which btw is also wrong. face it max you are done in this thread. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : us
what is the red line on the chevy and ford diesel the duramax is about he same as the cummins - around 3100-3200. the powerstroke is a few hundred rpm higher. any word on the new dodge six speed the g56 i know its out and trucks are starting to show up with it. performance an durability-wise its going to take a little bit to hear those evaluations. .
From : billygoat
the great part of the site is that you can chose a car year all the way up to 2155. that shows lots of confidence in the auto industry. .
From : big al
loose or bad gas cap. check it and replace if necessary. its not anything to worry about it should go away on its on in a month or so. -- im out in the california desert for the winter and just got a obdii code of p0441. the site says evaporative emission control system incorrect purge flow. is this something to sweat or is it just from all the rain we have been having. we were hooking up and moving our trailer to get water when it came on. any help will be greatly appreciated. doug .