One more Ram fuel mileage question (tailgate down help)?
From : denny
Q: i use meguires gold on my 2002 ram quad cabs leather interior; it cleans nicely and leaves a nice light scent. in fact i use meguires whole line on the interior and exterior of my truck. meguires keeps it looking new. anna what is good for detailing cleaning the interior material - including leather steering wheel cover - seats are cloth marshall .
Replies:
From : nosey
you may be right about the government overcharge. i have 17 years experience in military aviation navy. all of our boeing f/a-18 hornet grumman f-14 tomcat and douglas a-4 skyhawk manuals call them speed brakes. damn!! that has to be more fun than working on dodge/chryslers for a living. the test drives gotta be a thrill!! bg denny .
From : denny
the color is a good indicator it looses color with age and use a burnt smell means there has been overheating from hard work or slipping clutches. always change the filter and clean the magnet dont forget to put it back in the pan where you found it. trans flushes dont clean the filter and material on the magnet or sediment in the botton of the pan. only doing the pan and filter doesnt empty the torque converter of fluid. if it was still bright red and didnt have a burnt smell you are ok just keep to the schedule actually the color of the newest fluid atf+4 doesnt mean anything. there is a service bulletin out that says the color will darken with time and it cant be used to determine fluid condition. .
From : miles
you may be right about the government overcharge. i have 17 years experience in military aviation navy. all of our boeing f/a-18 hornet grumman f-14 tomcat and douglas a-4 skyhawk manuals call them speed brakes. damn!! that has to be more fun than working on dodge/chryslers for a living. the test drives gotta be a thrill!! bg denny as maintainers we dont get to test drive them but we can run up the engines on the ground. its a real kick to get twin jet engines into afterburner. its so loud the sound vibration makes you dizzy! ok now for the dumb question. if you have twin jet engines in afterburner how in the heck do you hold the plane from moving a bunch of big-assed cables anchored in concrete superman on the nose g as far as the noise goes about the loudest thing i have experienced is a modified tractor puller running 2 blown kb motors. the vibration to your chest at wot damn near makes me puke. would that even compare to a jet just curious. denny .
From : denny
roy i had the pillar pod on my 97 br and liked it very well. i would do the same with my 03 dr but they have conveniently placed a grab handle on the a pillar that momma uses to get in the truck when she drives it. if it werent for that i would use the pillar mount setup again....... ....hmmmmmm.... maybe just get a taller wife...... yeah thats the ticket....... a middle aged gal about 18 with big ....... ^ mike #1 sorry to hear about your boy glad to hear that he is coming along with recovering. now if your wife ever reads this thread............... #2 yeah.... ill be dead meat! ^ mike .
From : nosey
pssst! tom . . . .dont tell anyone but if you change the fluid regularly youll have fewer contaminants in it . . . . . . budd tbone wrote -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving leaking ps pump seals not always caused by the fluid. leaking steering box seals not always caused by the fluid. leaking rack and pinion seals not always caused by the fluid. leaking wheel cylinders not always caused by the fluid. leaking brake lines not always caused by the fluid. to name a few............... while all are true they are not always caused by the fluid itself and when it is caused by the fluid it is usually due to something contaminating it. i didnt say that nobody did just that i didnt know anybody who did. i never have and have never had a failure that could be attributed to not doing it. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving unlike the engine oil which is expected to be drained relatively often the transmission oil may last the life of the vehicle tell me - why do you think transmission fluid is immune to contamination break-down and general used-up-ed-ness that every other petroleum-based product exhibits and what other petroleum-based products are you referring to. i dont know anyone that ever changed the brake or power steering fluid on any of their daily drivers. just finished changing the brake fluid on the z06. changed the power steering fluid each fall on any of the dodge pick ups. any fluid that gets very hot then cooled frequently should be changed imo. roy .
From : remove spam from address to reply
im building a 39 plymouth pickup streetrod. after months of searching and running into dead-end after dead-end on aftermarket parts i decided the easiest way to accomplish my goal was to convert a late-model frame. that way ill get the parts availability and ease of service i want. after careful measuring i determined the 72-94 dodge pickup standard cab/8 box frame was a very close match. i bought a rusted-out 85 d150 le for a couple hundred usd and converted the 39s body mounts to fit that. i plan to lower the frame 3 overall. to accomplish this i plan to install a 8 3/4 above the leaf spings in the rear and use 3 drop spindles up front. this way i wont need to re-engineer the steering geometry. also im rebuilding a 73 340 360 crank 9.5-1 ratio pistons .030 overbore and will be using a 727 at. i need information for the following does anyone know of an aftermarket supplier of lowering kits for the 72-94 dodge trucks does anyone recall what years chrysler used the 8 3/4 rears on dodge trucks i believe they switched to 9 1/4 rears in the late 70s or early 80s but im not sure what suregrip gear set ratio do you think would be good for city/highway use in this application i was thinking somewhere in the 2.94 thru 3.55 range. -- please respond to group. .
From : terra
we did a little unscientific research a few years ago with our mazda pickup drove from calif to dallas with tail gate down and averaged the same or a little less than other trips with gate up... drove back with a piece of plywood on it that my bro-in-law cut to fit the bed and averaged almost 2 mpg more on the return trip... if i remember right the normal was about 27 and we got about 29 on the way back with my 01 dak with ext. cab adding the cab high camper shell increased hiway/trip mileage from the 16-18 mpg range to maybe the 18-20 range... mac heres another one for you and ive repeated it several times with similar results driving from dallas to santa fe a 600-mile one way frequent vacation i always got poorer mileage than on the return trip. i averaged the differences and using some rule-of-thumb conversions and engine efficiencies i got from guys on the alt.energy groups i found that the excess energy consumed on the trip west was almost exactly equal to the change in gravitational potential energy going from this lower elevation to the higher one! i got worse than normal mileage going west uphill and better than normal mileage going east downhill. i stored energy on the gradual climb and got it back when i came home! martin .
From : joe blow
i replaced the water pump on my 96 5.9 three times while i owned it and the radiator once. all of which spread from 60000 - 100000 miles. from what i have seen 60k seems average for the water pump to go or to replace it as preventative maintenance. was crusin back from the shore yesterday and the engine temp starts climbing. pull over and antifreeze is pouring out around the fan. i refill the radiator/res and limp off the high way. a flat bed aaa shows up 2 hours later and takes me the 50 miles home. my question is is it normal to only get 60k miles from a water pump before this had a 94 s10 blazer and sold it @ 130k with the original water pump. anything i could have to done to avoid this thanks anthony .
From : remove spam from address to reply
arresting arab americans with miniature sticks of dynomite. beekeep .
From : terra
replace your radiator cap to the proper specs... its not holding pressure like it should... i had some work done on the cooling system of my 96 dodge ram 1500 with 5.9l engine. now the heater core makes a gurgling noise for a while whenever the engine is started and the revs get above idle. it goes away after driving for a while but returns on startup after the engine has been off for a while. it has always made this noise to some extent but since the cooing system has been opened it is much worse. any cure dj .
From : remove spam from address to reply
ok fair enough. i guess that i am also a bit in defensive mode. i get that way when i forget to mention a key point - -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving you did not say anything to disserve any bullshit. if you spin one wheel and then not multiply by two then it will in fact be inaccurate though as you mentioned. i did not mean to flame you if that is how it came across. i was just pointing out some details and i figured someone would flame me for it.. some people dont understand the whole differential thing. my dad for example thinks the power only goes to one of the rear wheels. i guess i was still in jackass mode from responding to the bmw ng and didnt notice. hey trey what did i do to you to deserve this bullshit. you are correct and i never said that you were not. i forgot to say to multiply the end result by two which puts me in error but doing it that way does not make the method inaccurate. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving you need to spin dont wheels otherwise it will be inaccurate. by holding one wheel and spinning the other the drive shaft will spin but the drive shaft will spin half as fast than if you spun both wheels. the differential will act as a gear reduction. dont believe me ok i figured but before you flame me go out in the driveway with the floor jack and take a look. first - spell my damn name right. second - you can do whatever the hell you want greg.... dont let the van fall on your head though - that would be a damn shame. third one wheel wont be accurate. fourth best to use the tag on the axle cover. how is one wheel not accurate enough to get the ratio yes greg if it is an open rear you can lift one wheel put it into neutral and count the number of revolutions of the drive shaft for one full turn of the lifted wheel to get the ratio. it will probably not be exact due to backlash in the rear and wear in the rear u-joint but it will be close enough to figure out which factory gear set that you have. the trick is to always turn the wheel in one direction and rotate it a few turns before you start to count. you may also want to put a piece of tape on one of the u-joint caps to use as a reference mark. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : tim miser
on 7/2/03 1830 ss wrote not just roswell theyre *everywhere*. you know about the lubbock lights right i do know about the strip outside lubbock it had lights. it was heck living in a dry city! i wasted a year of my life in snyder in dry curry county. anyway http//www.lubbock-magazine.com/1997/aug97/ufo.htm .
From : terra
thanks for the responses ive recieved so far. since i was getting seperate responses from these 4 groups i decided to cross-post to them to save time and eliminate the simular resposes. im answering all responses ive recieved so far in this post. if anyone objects to this please let me know. im building a 39 plymouth pickup streetrod. after months of searching and running into dead-end after dead-end on aftermarket parts i decided the easiest way to accomplish my goal was to convert a late-model frame. that way ill get the parts availability and ease of service i want. after careful measuring i determined the 72-94 dodge pickup standard cab/8 box frame was a very close match. i bought a rusted-out 85 d150 le for a couple hundred usd and converted the 39s body mounts to fit that. i plan to lower the frame 3 overall. to accomplish this i plan to install a 8 3/4 above the leaf spings in the rear and use 3 drop spindles up front. this way i wont need to re-engineer the steering geometry. also im rebuilding a 73 340 360 crank 9.5-1 ratio pistons .030 overbore and will be using a 727 at. i need information for the following does anyone know of an aftermarket supplier of lowering kits for the 72-94 dodge trucks does anyone recall what years chrysler used the 8 3/4 rears on dodge trucks i believe they switched to 9 1/4 rears in the late 70s or early 80s but im not sure what suregrip gear set ratio do you think would be good for city/highway use in this application i was thinking somewhere in the 2.94 thru 3.55 range. this is an excellent plan. well thought out. depending on your wheel size i would lean towards the 3.25 to 3.55 gears range for a good city/highway combo. this will give you decent acceleration and good highway gas mileage. sounds like a neat project. i have seen f body subframes under older trucks too. the f body subframe makes it easy to get the front end really low and its adjustable for height. i dont know what to tell you on the lowering kit except that flipping the rear axle will accomplish a lot for the back end. you can lower the front just with the springs as long as the outer ball joint doesnt go above the control arms inner pivot. handling goes really funky if the ball joint ends up higher than the inner pivot. i had a 71 dodge pickup with an 8 3/4. 72s probably also got 8 3/4s but my friends 73 has an 8 1/4. id run 3.23s unless you use a real short tire or a real tall one. it also depends on the cam youll be using. you may need the 3.55s just to keep the engine happy. joshua skinner i have a 37 and to my knowledge there are no full sized trucks that the track would not be too wide .what did you look for to do the stock frame as there are things available . mike classic auto works i thought the 360 had bigger main bearings than the 318/340...the 340 and 318 use the same crank mostly. try early-mid 70s perhaps about 1974. they were using the 9.25 in half ton 1975 trucks for sure. if youre gonna be on the freeway at 75 then dont go higher than about 3.23. even thats too much for me anymore...but i prefer big blocks and the extra torque allows lower rpm with adequate performance. jim it does have bigger mains but the swap is similar to the 350 chevy/400 crank swap. it adds 0.270 to the stroke over the 318/340 crank and you end up with a 373 ci engine with a .030 overbore. chris imo you would be better off getting an 8.25 ring instead of the 8.75. reason being they are much more numerous will carry the load you want and have spring perches on the underside of the housing when used in a car that will help with your lowering ideas. on the 8.75 there are three styles one is a tapered pinion design which was the earliest and weakest of the bunch. not many parts are available for this pinion. the other two the 489 and 742 were a small and large pinion shaft version of the 8.75 diff both are fairly common under muscle cars although not nearly as numerous as the 8.25 axle. both 489 and 742 are sturdy and will hold up to your project assuming nothing too radical. max sounds like you are pretty far along with this project. id have rather gotten a volare or mustang 2 front end and replaced the front end with that.the m2 kits are available for almost anything. these days. this would have also allowed you to set the ride height to whatever you wanted with the correct modifications to the kit. any particular reason you are hung up on that particular rear end the important part is to insure that the rear end will handle the power of the engine and any rear end that will do that will be good enough. when getting your rear end the biggest thing besides power handling is the width of the thing. if you go wider you will need to use wheels with a deeper offset and you also run into the problems of changing wheels out on the road as the wheel can become bound into the wel
From : terra
i had the same thing happen to my 01 2500. it was a stress crack no sign of external impact; dead center from the bottom up about 4 then left about 7. dodge said they would call it a stress crack and replace it out to 10000 miles but not to the 27000 i had at the time. the bill was $212 with tax. my installer independent gray air and yellow fangs no connection with dodge or the dealer said it was bedded properly at the factory; he could see nothing that would have made it crack. rick -- my real e-mail address is yofuri@oakharbor.net truck goes into car wash windshield fine. truck exits car wash major crack coming up from the bottom center a 3 long and then turning left for 4. the truck is 1 1/2 years old...that being said is it covered under the warranty thanks .
From : terra
what trim level did you get i got an 03 reg. cab slt and i did not get floor mats on delivery. i looked at the sticker and noticed floor mats were standard equipment. i called the dealership and they got me a set. what kind do you want rubber or carpet the standard slt ones are carpet. my wife picked up a rubber set for me at walmart. has a red dodge emblem on them. they work pretty good. not very thick. but they protect the carpet. s. mason wrote i just purchased a 2003 ram 1500 regular cab and i still havent found any floor mats that i like. i saw a set on ebay that i loved but the auction is over. ive searched the internet for a set like them with no luck. they were made for a 1500 with a raised ram head on each one. does anyone know of a site where i can get these or do i have to go through my dealer ive also checked out the dodge website and found nothing. i would appreciate any help. .
From : remove spam from address to reply
on mon 07 jul 2003 135828 gmt exit exit@nomore.com wrote weve found that after dumping trillions of dollars into entitlement programs that basically nothing has changed in over 30 years. except the number of entitlement programs. it is a difficult balancing act to manage but if we can you can. personally id like to see everything scrapped and start over from point a. if it cant prove itself to be effective in some predetermined amount of time kill it off forever. i liked national health. what are pip pyle and those guys up to these days cleaners in the brompton road hospital iirc. anywhere near tenemos roads .
From : ss
i had a simular problem with my 99 dakota v6 5 speed. turned out to be rust and poor lubrication on the input shaft spline. the clutch disk was unable to slide properly on the spline thus it would not release completely. either way you will still need to pull the transmission. don canada yep the pilot bearing that is in the end of the crankshaft. you have to take the trans out to get to it i wouldnt bother trying to lube it just replace it and be done with it. i you try to lube it and it doesnt work you have to take the trans out again. that sounds like way too much work for these old bones. bg denny you mean the pilot bearing is dragging on the shaft it rides on front of the tranny. lubrication is what it needs my guess is the pilot bearing is starting to tie up. ive seen this several times on the cummins. denny