Octane question (For the Octane Savvy)
From : trey
Q: i am haveing a bit of trouble....ive checked sites and books and i cant find what my tranny is doing in any of them. heres the problem in 1st gear its find when it shifts into 2nd and 3rd it vibrates pretty bad. ive changed the fluid and filter and it still does it. id like to find out what is wrong with it before i have to take it to a transmission shop. thanks arlene .
Replies:
From : snoman
the battery cables are clean and the battery tested good. i guess the next step is to get a multimeter and check the wiring unless you guys know of anything else .
From : trey
trey wrote i also love the idiots that just lift the front or their trucks or just lower the back end and dont adjust their lights. ditto for the yoyos pulling trailers. jerry .
From : trey
just replace the output speed sensor. its a common problem. take ya 5 minutes. its threaded into the side of the transmission i believe on the drivers side. youll need a 1 wrench. i have a 98 1500 1/2 ton 2wd with the 5.9l 360ci my check engine light came on last week and i pulled up code 0720. according to my manual and the code reader it is a output speed sensor circuit malfuntion. where would be a good starting point to find my problem. the book says theres a sensor above the harmonic balance but then states its on a diesel thanks lost and needing help .
From : Annonymous
on mon 06 jun 2005 180921 gmt trey treydog90spam@hotmail.com wrote coasty wrote just a follow-up 87 burns at a faster rate than 91 octane fuel. also use what your owners manual or the manufacturer recommends. i know my autos say use 87 and my bike says use 87 or higher. i use higher because it prevents knocking when the bike gets hot especially in traffic. most owner manuals state use 87 not because it runs the best on them because most modern high compression engines realy do not but because of for marketing reasons. it would kill sales if they labeled their vehicals as requireing higher octane fuel. also the difference in burn rate is minimal but oremium does burn just a bit slower but it does have a higher pre-igniton point than regular. also some fuel do have a detergent addive of sorts to keep injectors clean and some even use a additive to minimize or prevent formation of ice crystal in fuel in extreme cold if moistue is present in fuel in small amounts. so would a bone stock 1995 dodge neon benefit from 91 over 87 if it is a twin cam most definitely as the manual calls for 91. the engine code is ecb compresstion ratio is 9.81 sohc valves sfi fuel injection. .
From : jerry
the problem ..at least around here...is trying to get the rest of the truck to go 300000 miles !!!! that would take me 22 years at my present rate. my truck is 15..it was a work truck for the first 5butive put fenders on it twicea rear bumper rusted thru rotors 3 times.. but..the dumb thing still has the original exhaust system !!! the clamps have rusted offbut she doesnt leak !...go figure !! .
From : coasty
remember who youre talking to. its his job to be annoying... bg hi fur face how ya doin roy not bad. planting is done. baling hay is next but thats a couple of weeks off. the next project is converting my b-i-ls 2n over to 12v. you having fun denny .
From : trey
i just installed a set of mopar foglights in my 04 ram. this unit came with the aftermarket switch. rather than hooking it up into my headlight wiring harness i wired it directly to my battery and added an appropriate circuit. does anyone know how to connect this into my chime so that if i should leave the foglights on by mistake i will be warned with the chime thanks in advance you could hook them up to the headlamp wiring as per the instruction sheet. denny .
From : Annonymous
i just installed a set of mopar foglights in my 04 ram. this unit came with the aftermarket switch. rather than hooking it up into my headlight wiring harness i wired it directly to my battery and added an appropriate circuit. does anyone know how to connect this into my chime so that if i should leave the foglights on by mistake i will be warned with the chime thanks in advance .
From : steve w
well the light came back on after about 8 miles. i guess ill try clearing the code the way you suggested jmc. perhaps then ill try a new cap or i may just bite the bullet and take it in. when and if i do i will definitely let you know what is up with it! thanks and take care. .
From : Annonymous
that is when most find out that the lift pump is not working. when the lift pump fails the injector pump will pull the fuel and all appears okay. when you change the filter then it becomes real apparent the lift pump has gone south and your injector pump is right behind. roy quit making sense dammit its annoying! ;^ i thought the lack of power symptoms would be very noticeable but after a bit of research i discovered several people claimed not to notice any power difference until after changing a failed pump. .
From : Annonymous
actually the additive packages and detergents are different between most brands. techron is a detergent package that is advertised as such but most companies have a similar package as well. these are needed to keep the entire fuel system clean and functional. they reduce gum formation and break down any existing deposits. the base stock may be the same for each brand though. the states themselves do not require different packages however the companies may change formulations to help reduce the effects of the seasons on emissions. http//www.faqs.org/faqs/autos/gasoline-faq/part1/ for a faq that should answer any questions about gasoline. 4.12 are brands different yes. the above specifications are intended to ensure minimal quality standards are maintained however as well as the fuel hydrocarbons the manufacturers add their own special ingredients to provide additional benefits. a quality gasoline additive package would include-* octane-enhancing additives improve octane ratings * anti-oxidants inhibit gum formation improve stability * metal deactivators inhibit gum formation improve stability * deposit modifiers reduce deposits spark-plug fouling and preignition * surfactants prevent icing improve vaporization inhibit deposits reduce nox emissions * freezing point depressants prevent icing * corrosion inhibitors prevent gasoline corroding storage tanks * dyes product colour for safety or regulatory purposes . during the 1980s significant problems with deposits accumulating on intake valve surfaces occurred as new fuel injection systems were introduced. these intake valve deposits ivd were different than the injector deposits in part because the valve can reach 300c. engine design changes that prevent deposits usually consist of ensuring the valve is flushed with liquid gasoline and provision of adequate valve rotation. gasoline factors that cause deposits are the presence of alcohols or olefins 46. gasoline manufacturers now routinely use additives that prevent ivd and also maintain the cleanliness of injectors. these usually include a surfactant and light oil to maintain the wetting of important surfaces. intake valve deposits have also been shown to have significant adverse effects on emissions 47 and deposit control additives will be required to both reduce emissions and provide clean engine operation 48. a slightly more detailed description of additives is provided in section 9.1. texaco demonstrated that a well-formulated package could improve fuel economy reduce nox emissions and restore engine performance because as well as the traditional liquid-phase deposit removal some additives can work in the vapor phase to remove existing engine deposits without adversely affecting performance as happens when water is poured into a running engine to remove carbon deposits - 49. chevron have also published data on the effectiveness of their additives 50 and successfully litigated to get texaco to modify some of their claims 51. most suppliers of quality gasolines will formulate similar additives into their products and cheaper product lines are less likely to have such additives added. as different brands of gasoline use different additives and oxygenates it is probable that important fuel parameters such as octane distribution are slightly different even though the pump octane ratings are the same. so if you know your car is well-tuned and in good condition but the drivability is pathetic on the correct octane try another brand. remember that the composition will change with the season so if you lose drivability try yet another brand. as various clean air act changes are introduced over the next few years gasoline will continue to change. -- steve trey this is a loaded question. first there are no detergents in fuel. second there are additives and they are area specific not brand specific. in most cases the fuel at the pumps all come from the same local refinery. different states require different additive packages for ecology and weather reasons. these packages typically change throughout the year. the worst of these additives is mtbf. it is a form of ether. this stuff is bad for everything including the gasoline itself. it will cause seal deterioration fuel gelling skin damage you name it. generally gasoline having this stuff must be used within 90 days or else. next wives tale to smother is there is more power in 91 than in 87. energy content is the same. do not believe the label on the pump you could be buying anything. there are simply not enough industry controls to validate conformity and eliminate cheating. your best bet is to buy fuel from a station you have a successful history with. lastly never use more octane than your motor needs to be knock free it is a waste of money. the actual octane level the engine needs is a product of engine design with consideration of the
From : coasty
i had the same problem with my 03. its the tires if you have the 20 wheels. the tread pattern and width on the tires that come stock really suck in the snow. i put bf goodrich all terrain kos on and they are 200% better in the snow here in wisconsin. i have the factory anti-slip in my 05 ram 1500 hemi & it sucks in snow while in 4x4 or 4x2 but! driving in snow sucks with just about any vehicle. seriously i am not impressed with the anti-spin on the dodge but i do love the locker my son has in his 04 blazer! on sat 21 may 2005 181215 -0600 nathan w. collier montanajeeper@aol.com wrote it sux that if ordered new the option is only $285.00. oh well... keep in mind that the anti-slip factory option is not positive posi traction. positive traction refers to a locker and limited slip is not the same as a locker. the new power wagon has real lockers anything less is only limited slip and while its a bit better than an open differential its still only limited slip. due to e-mail spamming bots my reply address is incorrect. .
From : steve lusardi
just a follow-up 87 burns at a faster rate than 91 octane fuel. also use what your owners manual or the manufacturer recommends. i know my autos say use 87 and my bike says use 87 or higher. i use higher because it prevents knocking when the bike gets hot especially in traffic. -- coasty semper paratus always ready trey this is a loaded question. first there are no detergents in fuel. second there are additives and they are area specific not brand specific. in most cases the fuel at the pumps all come from the same local refinery. different states require different additive packages for ecology and weather reasons. these packages typically change throughout the year. the worst of these additives is mtbf. it is a form of ether. this stuff is bad for everything including the gasoline itself. it will cause seal deterioration fuel gelling skin damage you name it. generally gasoline having this stuff must be used within 90 days or else. next wives tale to smother is there is more power in 91 than in 87. energy content is the same. do not believe the label on the pump you could be buying anything. there are simply not enough industry controls to validate conformity and eliminate cheating. your best bet is to buy fuel from a station you have a successful history with. lastly never use more octane than your motor needs to be knock free it is a waste of money. the actual octane level the engine needs is a product of engine design with consideration of the following factors. mechanical compression ratio camshaft timing inlet and exhaust restrictions and operating temperature. steve ok folks i am sure this one has been beaten into the ground many times. however i am now on a quest. sort of. a friend of mine had an interesting view to share on the topic of 87 octane vs 91 octane low vs high below is his response to my statement which is below his. for the record he has a nissan sentra spec-v his wife has a dodge noen both run 91 i have a dodge dakota and the bike i was referring to in my post was my old suzuki sv650s. i run 87 in both as per their owners manuals i know there are a few guys here that work for the oil companies. do you happen to know where i might find in writing on a fuel companys web site that states that the only difference is the octane rating and not the detergents or proof stating otherwise i will be researching as best i can during the weekend but any direction would be appreciated. ------------------------------------------------ yes ive read some very very extensive articles on gasoline octane. heres a few notes - 91 will always run better than 87. - 91 from the different gas companies is all drastically different - running 91 on a car that doesnt need it will not damage the car. it will make it run just the same as what the car is tuned for but it will allow an extra margin of safety from unpleasant car conditions i.e. heat soaked radiator causing overheating creating knock conditions 91 will not require the ecu to compensate nearly as much or as early as if it was on 87 - 91 octane at most gas stations will contain extra detergents and cleaners which will prevent your injectors from clogging up as easy keep the valves cleaner and keep all related fuel lines/pump cleaner and free of debris. - 91 octane at 76 or shell is considered the absolute cream of the crop for southern california. the difference between these two and cheveron/exxon/mobil/generic brand is huge. some stock cars are noticing a 5-15% power drop from just using the wrong brand of 91 octane. - for reference your air conditioner will sap around 10% of your cars horsepower when turned on. - also for the record if you do the math with a 10-11 gallon fillup thats only an extra $2 each time you fill up 1-2 times a week means an extra $8-$16 a month for a cleaner engine and safer driving condition. thats worth the extra cost in my book. ----------------- original message ----------------- from trey date jun 3 2005 418 pm have you actually read up on what makes 91 91 or what the three grades do if the car is not designed for it the higher grade can actually damage teh car. my truck for example it notes not to run 91. 91 can degrade performance in a car designed for 87. some cars like your spec-v spec that it will run on 87 but to use 89 for best performance. in that case the car will run on 87 but the knock sensor will retard the timing reducing power to keep it from knocking. and is able to advance the timing with the 89. i remember my motorcycle actually felt down on power when i ran 91 it actually ran better on 87. as for being negligibly more expensive than 87 its about a .$20/gallon difference. doesnt sound like much but when your buying 20 gallons at a time and get 12 mpg it adds up very fast. thats an extra $200 a year im just blowing out the tailpipe of the truck. .