OT...gunstock refinishing
From : denny
Q: for all you woodworkers in here...bg i got a walnut stock on a mil-surp that i hopefully going to make look a bit better. it has a few dents but it doesnt look like its been ran over by a tank. i got the finish removed using a paint/varnish remover and tomorrow night im going to try the ole wet towel/hot iron trick to raise some of the dents. then a bit of sanding and rub in a few coats of a satin finish tung oil. anybody got any idea if this process sounds good or any other suggestions denny .
Replies:
From : denny
on thu 11 may 2006 090852 gmt denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote on thu 11 may 2006 013557 gmt denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote for all you woodworkers in here...bg i got a walnut stock on a mil-surp that i hopefully going to make look a bit better. it has a few dents but it doesnt look like its been ran over by a tank. i got the finish removed using a paint/varnish remover and tomorrow night im going to try the ole wet towel/hot iron trick to raise some of the dents. then a bit of sanding and rub in a few coats of a satin finish tung oil. anybody got any idea if this process sounds good or any other suggestions denny sounds good if you like tung oil.. ive never been a fan.. depending on the size of the dings in the stock sometimes a wet paper towel and a soldering iron work well.. if you want a little shine id use your choice of brand/color of danish oil... absorbs well hardens the wood from inside and goes on with a rag or brush.. if you want gloss or depth buff it after 2 or 3 days with a soft wheel.. be very careful maybe wear latex gloves... rabbit fur is a bitch to get out of a finish.. mac you was doing good till that last line.... bg what dont you like with the tung oil thanks everybody denny you wouldnt expect me to not put that in would/wood ya *g* tung oil in its pure form is only an oil.. all its going to do is moisturize the wood.. the stuff like formbys or whatever is tung oil poly and a few other goodies to make it look nice.. danish oil is pretty much oil mineral spirits and usually a little varnish or shellac so you get the penetration of oil with a finish to protect it.. if the tung oil is pure it wont be durable.. if its got poly mixed with it the wood wont breath and could warp or crack in different moisture conditions.. i guess thats why they had matell make the 16 out of plastic.. *g* thanks for the tip on the danish oil. so far ive got three stocks done and they are all looking the way i wanted. and the fur really isnt that bad comes right out with 0000 steel wool........ denny .
From : roy
on thu 11 may 2006 090852 gmt denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote on thu 11 may 2006 013557 gmt denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote for all you woodworkers in here...bg i got a walnut stock on a mil-surp that i hopefully going to make look a bit better. it has a few dents but it doesnt look like its been ran over by a tank. i got the finish removed using a paint/varnish remover and tomorrow night im going to try the ole wet towel/hot iron trick to raise some of the dents. then a bit of sanding and rub in a few coats of a satin finish tung oil. anybody got any idea if this process sounds good or any other suggestions denny sounds good if you like tung oil.. ive never been a fan.. depending on the size of the dings in the stock sometimes a wet paper towel and a soldering iron work well.. if you want a little shine id use your choice of brand/color of danish oil... absorbs well hardens the wood from inside and goes on with a rag or brush.. if you want gloss or depth buff it after 2 or 3 days with a soft wheel.. be very careful maybe wear latex gloves... rabbit fur is a bitch to get out of a finish.. mac you was doing good till that last line.... bg what dont you like with the tung oil thanks everybody denny you wouldnt expect me to not put that in would/wood ya *g* tung oil in its pure form is only an oil.. all its going to do is moisturize the wood.. the stuff like formbys or whatever is tung oil poly and a few other goodies to make it look nice.. danish oil is pretty much oil mineral spirits and usually a little varnish or shellac so you get the penetration of oil with a finish to protect it.. if the tung oil is pure it wont be durable.. if its got poly mixed with it the wood wont breath and could warp or crack in different moisture conditions.. i guess thats why they had matell make the 16 out of plastic.. *g* thanks for the tip on the danish oil. so far ive got three stocks done and they are all looking the way i wanted. and the fur really isnt that bad comes right out with 0000 steel wool........ i suppose you did the black one too.g this rain will never end area north of here has recieved 10+ inches in a the past 2 days. we are at about 4+ . supposed to continue until tuesday. roy denny .
From : mac davis
on mon 15 may 2006 011840 gmt denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote thanks for the tip on the danish oil. so far ive got three stocks done and they are all looking the way i wanted. and the fur really isnt that bad comes right out with 0000 steel wool........ denny cool.. glad that its working out... ive tried almost everything and keep going back to the danish oil... buffs really nice too and its renewable.. maybe once a year or 2 just rub on a light coat.. mac https//home.comcast.net/mac.davis https//home.comcast.net/mac.davis/woodstuff.htm .
From : mac davis
on sun 14 may 2006 213151 -0400 roy roy@home.net wrote i suppose you did the black one too.g this rain will never end area north of here has recieved 10+ inches in a the past 2 days. we are at about 4+ . supposed to continue until tuesday. roy i would have recommended armorall and olive drab duct tape for that one... mac https//home.comcast.net/mac.davis https//home.comcast.net/mac.davis/woodstuff.htm .
From : roy
on thu 11 may 2006 090852 gmt denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote on thu 11 may 2006 013557 gmt denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote for all you woodworkers in here...bg i got a walnut stock on a mil-surp that i hopefully going to make look a bit better. it has a few dents but it doesnt look like its been ran over by a tank. i got the finish removed using a paint/varnish remover and tomorrow night im going to try the ole wet towel/hot iron trick to raise some of the dents. then a bit of sanding and rub in a few coats of a satin finish tung oil. anybody got any idea if this process sounds good or any other suggestions denny sounds good if you like tung oil.. ive never been a fan.. depending on the size of the dings in the stock sometimes a wet paper towel and a soldering iron work well.. if you want a little shine id use your choice of brand/color of danish oil... absorbs well hardens the wood from inside and goes on with a rag or brush.. if you want gloss or depth buff it after 2 or 3 days with a soft wheel.. be very careful maybe wear latex gloves... rabbit fur is a bitch to get out of a finish.. mac you was doing good till that last line.... bg what dont you like with the tung oil thanks everybody denny you wouldnt expect me to not put that in would/wood ya *g* tung oil in its pure form is only an oil.. all its going to do is moisturize the wood.. the stuff like formbys or whatever is tung oil poly and a few other goodies to make it look nice.. danish oil is pretty much oil mineral spirits and usually a little varnish or shellac so you get the penetration of oil with a finish to protect it.. if the tung oil is pure it wont be durable.. if its got poly mixed with it the wood wont breath and could warp or crack in different moisture conditions.. i guess thats why they had matell make the 16 out of plastic.. *g* thanks for the tip on the danish oil. so far ive got three stocks done and they are all looking the way i wanted. and the fur really isnt that bad comes right out with 0000 steel wool........ i suppose you did the black one too.g this rain will never end area north of here has recieved 10+ inches in a the past 2 days. we are at about 4+ . supposed to continue until tuesday. roy denny oh the blonde joke was pretty good. roy .
From : denny
on thu 11 may 2006 090852 gmt denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote on thu 11 may 2006 013557 gmt denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote for all you woodworkers in here...bg i got a walnut stock on a mil-surp that i hopefully going to make look a bit better. it has a few dents but it doesnt look like its been ran over by a tank. i got the finish removed using a paint/varnish remover and tomorrow night im going to try the ole wet towel/hot iron trick to raise some of the dents. then a bit of sanding and rub in a few coats of a satin finish tung oil. anybody got any idea if this process sounds good or any other suggestions denny sounds good if you like tung oil.. ive never been a fan.. depending on the size of the dings in the stock sometimes a wet paper towel and a soldering iron work well.. if you want a little shine id use your choice of brand/color of danish oil... absorbs well hardens the wood from inside and goes on with a rag or brush.. if you want gloss or depth buff it after 2 or 3 days with a soft wheel.. be very careful maybe wear latex gloves... rabbit fur is a bitch to get out of a finish.. mac you was doing good till that last line.... bg what dont you like with the tung oil thanks everybody denny you wouldnt expect me to not put that in would/wood ya *g* tung oil in its pure form is only an oil.. all its going to do is moisturize the wood.. the stuff like formbys or whatever is tung oil poly and a few other goodies to make it look nice.. danish oil is pretty much oil mineral spirits and usually a little varnish or shellac so you get the penetration of oil with a finish to protect it.. if the tung oil is pure it wont be durable.. if its got poly mixed with it the wood wont breath and could warp or crack in different moisture conditions.. i guess thats why they had matell make the 16 out of plastic.. *g* thanks for the tip on the danish oil. so far ive got three stocks done and they are all looking the way i wanted. and the fur really isnt that bad comes right out with 0000 steel wool........ i suppose you did the black one too.g i tried but it didnt turn out very well........sticky as hell g this rain will never end area north of here has recieved 10+ inches in a the past 2 days. we are at about 4+ . supposed to continue until tuesday. just think of the toys if this woulda been snow a few months ago...... denny roy denny .
From : roy
on thu 11 may 2006 090852 gmt denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote on thu 11 may 2006 013557 gmt denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote for all you woodworkers in here...bg i got a walnut stock on a mil-surp that i hopefully going to make look a bit better. it has a few dents but it doesnt look like its been ran over by a tank. i got the finish removed using a paint/varnish remover and tomorrow night im going to try the ole wet towel/hot iron trick to raise some of the dents. then a bit of sanding and rub in a few coats of a satin finish tung oil. anybody got any idea if this process sounds good or any other suggestions denny sounds good if you like tung oil.. ive never been a fan.. depending on the size of the dings in the stock sometimes a wet paper towel and a soldering iron work well.. if you want a little shine id use your choice of brand/color of danish oil... absorbs well hardens the wood from inside and goes on with a rag or brush.. if you want gloss or depth buff it after 2 or 3 days with a soft wheel.. be very careful maybe wear latex gloves... rabbit fur is a bitch to get out of a finish.. mac you was doing good till that last line.... bg what dont you like with the tung oil thanks everybody denny you wouldnt expect me to not put that in would/wood ya *g* tung oil in its pure form is only an oil.. all its going to do is moisturize the wood.. the stuff like formbys or whatever is tung oil poly and a few other goodies to make it look nice.. danish oil is pretty much oil mineral spirits and usually a little varnish or shellac so you get the penetration of oil with a finish to protect it.. if the tung oil is pure it wont be durable.. if its got poly mixed with it the wood wont breath and could warp or crack in different moisture conditions.. i guess thats why they had matell make the 16 out of plastic.. *g* thanks for the tip on the danish oil. so far ive got three stocks done and they are all looking the way i wanted. and the fur really isnt that bad comes right out with 0000 steel wool........ i suppose you did the black one too.g i tried but it didnt turn out very well........sticky as hell g this rain will never end area north of here has recieved 10+ inches in a the past 2 days. we are at about 4+ . supposed to continue until tuesday. just think of the toys if this woulda been snow a few months ago...... it gets better some areas north are up to 14+ and more comeng tonight. the damage is unbelievable nobody has flood insurance. roy denny roy denny .
From : budd cochran mrd150 preciscom spam net
sounds good to me. tung oil will give protection and preserve the wood. -- budd for all you woodworkers in here...bg i got a walnut stock on a mil-surp that i hopefully going to make look a bit better. it has a few dents but it doesnt look like its been ran over by a tank. i got the finish removed using a paint/varnish remover and tomorrow night im going to try the ole wet towel/hot iron trick to raise some of the dents. then a bit of sanding and rub in a few coats of a satin finish tung oil. anybody got any idea if this process sounds good or any other suggestions denny *** posted via a free usenet account from http//www.tera.com *** .
From : diamond dave
on thu 11 may 2006 013557 gmt denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote for all you woodworkers in here...bg i got a walnut stock on a mil-surp that i hopefully going to make look a bit better. it has a few dents but it doesnt look like its been ran over by a tank. i got the finish removed using a paint/varnish remover and tomorrow night im going to try the ole wet towel/hot iron trick to raise some of the dents. then a bit of sanding and rub in a few coats of a satin finish tung oil. anybody got any idea if this process sounds good or any other suggestions a bit if iodine in the tung oil will yield a bit darker tone if youd want that but your plan is solid. .
From : christopher thompson
ive never tried the wet towel/hot iron trick. so let me know how that turns out. but the rest sounds solid. if it works well enough for you i may try to make the mouser look a little better. its been used to say the least not to mention the flood of 94 didnt do much for it either -- -chris 05 ctd 06 liberty crd for all you woodworkers in here...bg i got a walnut stock on a mil-surp that i hopefully going to make look a bit better. it has a few dents but it doesnt look like its been ran over by a tank. i got the finish removed using a paint/varnish remover and tomorrow night im going to try the ole wet towel/hot iron trick to raise some of the dents. then a bit of sanding and rub in a few coats of a satin finish tung oil. anybody got any idea if this process sounds good or any other suggestions denny .
From : tbone
you really only need to wet down the area where the dents are and give the water enough time to get in there before hitting it with the iron or you will just be wasting your time. then when you are done make sure to give the wood enough time to dry out or you might not like the finish. dont get to crazy with the sand paper you only really want to knock down the raised grain. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving for all you woodworkers in here...bg i got a walnut stock on a mil-surp that i hopefully going to make look a bit better. it has a few dents but it doesnt look like its been ran over by a tank. i got the finish removed using a paint/varnish remover and tomorrow night im going to try the ole wet towel/hot iron trick to raise some of the dents. then a bit of sanding and rub in a few coats of a satin finish tung oil. anybody got any idea if this process sounds good or any other suggestions denny .
From : dave lee
on thu 11 may 2006 013557 gmt denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote for all you woodworkers in here...bg i got a walnut stock on a mil-surp that i hopefully going to make look a bit better. it has a few dents but it doesnt look like its been ran over by a tank. i got the finish removed using a paint/varnish remover and tomorrow night im going to try the ole wet towel/hot iron trick to raise some of the dents. then a bit of sanding and rub in a few coats of a satin finish tung oil. anybody got any idea if this process sounds good or any other suggestions denny sounds good if you like tung oil.. ive never been a fan.. depending on the size of the dings in the stock sometimes a wet paper towel and a soldering iron work well.. if you want a little shine id use your choice of brand/color of danish oil... absorbs well hardens the wood from inside and goes on with a rag or brush.. if you want gloss or depth buff it after 2 or 3 days with a soft wheel.. be very careful maybe wear latex gloves... rabbit fur is a bitch to get out of a finish.. mac you was doing good till that last line.... bg what dont you like with the tung oil thanks everybody denny mac https//home.comcast.net/mac.davis https//home.comcast.net/mac.davis/woodstuff.htm if i remember correctly i did tung oil on a stock a marlin lever and i didnt care for how well it held up after a few days in the rain. .
From : roy
on thu 11 may 2006 013557 gmt denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote for all you woodworkers in here...bg i got a walnut stock on a mil-surp that i hopefully going to make look a bit better. it has a few dents but it doesnt look like its been ran over by a tank. i got the finish removed using a paint/varnish remover and tomorrow night im going to try the ole wet towel/hot iron trick to raise some of the dents. then a bit of sanding and rub in a few coats of a satin finish tung oil. anybody got any idea if this process sounds good or any other suggestions denny sounds good if you like tung oil.. ive never been a fan.. depending on the size of the dings in the stock sometimes a wet paper towel and a soldering iron work well.. if you want a little shine id use your choice of brand/color of danish oil... absorbs well hardens the wood from inside and goes on with a rag or brush.. if you want gloss or depth buff it after 2 or 3 days with a soft wheel.. be very careful maybe wear latex gloves... rabbit fur is a bitch to get out of a finish.. mac you was doing good till that last line.... bg what dont you like with the tung oil damn denny i thought he was right on the money.g have you had any rounds through it yet or is it going to be a safe queen roy .
From : mac davis
on thu 11 may 2006 013557 gmt denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote for all you woodworkers in here...bg i got a walnut stock on a mil-surp that i hopefully going to make look a bit better. it has a few dents but it doesnt look like its been ran over by a tank. i got the finish removed using a paint/varnish remover and tomorrow night im going to try the ole wet towel/hot iron trick to raise some of the dents. then a bit of sanding and rub in a few coats of a satin finish tung oil. anybody got any idea if this process sounds good or any other suggestions denny sounds good if you like tung oil.. ive never been a fan.. depending on the size of the dings in the stock sometimes a wet paper towel and a soldering iron work well.. if you want a little shine id use your choice of brand/color of danish oil... absorbs well hardens the wood from inside and goes on with a rag or brush.. if you want gloss or depth buff it after 2 or 3 days with a soft wheel.. be very careful maybe wear latex gloves... rabbit fur is a bitch to get out of a finish.. mac https//home.comcast.net/mac.davis https//home.comcast.net/mac.davis/woodstuff.htm .
From : denny
on thu 11 may 2006 013557 gmt denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote for all you woodworkers in here...bg i got a walnut stock on a mil-surp that i hopefully going to make look a bit better. it has a few dents but it doesnt look like its been ran over by a tank. i got the finish removed using a paint/varnish remover and tomorrow night im going to try the ole wet towel/hot iron trick to raise some of the dents. then a bit of sanding and rub in a few coats of a satin finish tung oil. anybody got any idea if this process sounds good or any other suggestions denny sounds good if you like tung oil.. ive never been a fan.. depending on the size of the dings in the stock sometimes a wet paper towel and a soldering iron work well.. if you want a little shine id use your choice of brand/color of danish oil... absorbs well hardens the wood from inside and goes on with a rag or brush.. if you want gloss or depth buff it after 2 or 3 days with a soft wheel.. be very careful maybe wear latex gloves... rabbit fur is a bitch to get out of a finish.. mac you was doing good till that last line.... bg what dont you like with the tung oil thanks everybody denny mac https//home.comcast.net/mac.davis https//home.comcast.net/mac.davis/woodstuff.htm .
From : mac davis
on thu 11 may 2006 090852 gmt denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote on thu 11 may 2006 013557 gmt denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote for all you woodworkers in here...bg i got a walnut stock on a mil-surp that i hopefully going to make look a bit better. it has a few dents but it doesnt look like its been ran over by a tank. i got the finish removed using a paint/varnish remover and tomorrow night im going to try the ole wet towel/hot iron trick to raise some of the dents. then a bit of sanding and rub in a few coats of a satin finish tung oil. anybody got any idea if this process sounds good or any other suggestions denny sounds good if you like tung oil.. ive never been a fan.. depending on the size of the dings in the stock sometimes a wet paper towel and a soldering iron work well.. if you want a little shine id use your choice of brand/color of danish oil... absorbs well hardens the wood from inside and goes on with a rag or brush.. if you want gloss or depth buff it after 2 or 3 days with a soft wheel.. be very careful maybe wear latex gloves... rabbit fur is a bitch to get out of a finish.. mac you was doing good till that last line.... bg what dont you like with the tung oil thanks everybody denny you wouldnt expect me to not put that in would/wood ya *g* tung oil in its pure form is only an oil.. all its going to do is moisturize the wood.. the stuff like formbys or whatever is tung oil poly and a few other goodies to make it look nice.. danish oil is pretty much oil mineral spirits and usually a little varnish or shellac so you get the penetration of oil with a finish to protect it.. if the tung oil is pure it wont be durable.. if its got poly mixed with it the wood wont breath and could warp or crack in different moisture conditions.. i guess thats why they had matell make the 16 out of plastic.. *g* mac https//home.comcast.net/mac.davis https//home.comcast.net/mac.davis/woodstuff.htm .
From : denny
on thu 11 may 2006 013557 gmt denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote for all you woodworkers in here...bg i got a walnut stock on a mil-surp that i hopefully going to make look a bit better. it has a few dents but it doesnt look like its been ran over by a tank. i got the finish removed using a paint/varnish remover and tomorrow night im going to try the ole wet towel/hot iron trick to raise some of the dents. then a bit of sanding and rub in a few coats of a satin finish tung oil. anybody got any idea if this process sounds good or any other suggestions denny sounds good if you like tung oil.. ive never been a fan.. depending on the size of the dings in the stock sometimes a wet paper towel and a soldering iron work well.. if you want a little shine id use your choice of brand/color of danish oil... absorbs well hardens the wood from inside and goes on with a rag or brush.. if you want gloss or depth buff it after 2 or 3 days with a soft wheel.. be very careful maybe wear latex gloves... rabbit fur is a bitch to get out of a finish.. mac you was doing good till that last line.... bg what dont you like with the tung oil damn denny i thought he was right on the money.g have you had any rounds through it yet or is it going to be a safe queen roy no rounds yet. it started raining yesterday afternoon so i started cleaning cosmoline last night. the metal looks damned good and the stock had a bunch of little dents so i going to try making it look better. no safe queen for this one. it wont be shot as much as the other one due to ammo price but itll have its turn looking at the dirt pile. i may even put a bracket in the tractor cab so one of them can be a hog gun. i finally got around to calling colt about which chamber i have. the cust rep didnt hesitate a second when saying that rifle could handle nato or commercial ammo. even wanted to know if i wanted a free owner manual for it. she made a helluva first impression. denny .