OT...ID old car

From : john carrington

Q: its not anything magnetic related. it is most likely something heat related or a cold solder joint on the circuit board in the overhead display. it could be a cable but i am leaning towards cold solder joint. ive seen a lot of these in recent past. pull the console off and remove the board if you can. if you arent mechanically inclined to that level then either get someone who is or replace the console with a working one and see if the issue goes away. if you take the board out then get a good thick magnifying glass and look at each solder joint for small cracks. you will need to magnify them quite a bit. if you cant do that then it wont hurt to touch them all with a good soldering iron. its broke anyway so there isnt much you can do to make it worse. just be careful and do a clean job. dont smear solder all over or cook the board. if you see anything that looks suspicious then touch them with a hot iron. you need a circuit board gun or a pencil style gun. if all you have is one of those trigger operated gun looking stupid things from home depot then you should run screaming from this job. it sounds to me like there is something intermittently failing. a cold solder joint will open up with heat. heat will be produced when current flows. this will in turn cause expansion and the contact will open. no magnet mount for the roof. mine is located on the bed. i physically turned it completely off and then back on. the display looks something like you would see in alien movies. i will try and remove the connectors and reconnect them. truck has been getting shaken about alot with the road conditions being what they are. i have hit alot more bumps then usual. so i will check those tonite and see if maybe that it is it. i only say that as sometimes the display works fine and sometimes it doesnt. by turning it off and on do you mean changing the display mode from temp/compass to no display if so that wont do anything but change what the overhead console is displaying; it doesnt reset any sensor. what kind of unreadable displays did you ever see sc looks like 5c or oc on the overhead display those are codes for short circuit and open circuit - indicating either the thermistor is out of range doubtful if youre not driving in the middle east or there is a problem else where in the outside temperature sensing circuit. as roy intimated a magnetic mount on the roof of the cab can really screw things up. the manual has a specific method of degaussing the roof it thats the case. on my way back from a long trip i noticed the digital compass / temperature readout was freaking out. display was randomly making unreadable displays. i turned it off and back on and still the same. turned it off again for awhile and back on again. stayed normal for awhile but then started again. was wondering if anyone else had the same problem and what was the fix or if anyone has any ideas of why it is doing it all of a sudden. i have a 96 1500 ram 5.2l extended cab 4x4 slt sport model with 145000 miles. thanks t .

Replies:

From : napalmheart

http//i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff79/phire7632/grandfatherscar.jpg possibly a 1932 black ford deuce coupe http//tinyurl.com/2sowtb .

From : chris thompson

well....couldnt find an evap can but i do remember a cracked hose that runs from the driver side valve cover gasket to the intake manifold. thought i had patched it well enough....could that possibly be the culprit -- ------------------------------------------ laszlo almasi ----cool toys formerly carolina watercraft works ----mack daddy trailers ----ice angels in response to carolina watercraft works s post. i thought everyone should know is there a common cause for this code it has gotten to the point that within a day or so the code shows again after i reset the dtcs. was just wondering if you guys have seen it to be one thing more than another. check all your hoses going to and from the evap canister on the left hand frame rail under the truck irrc thats the location of it ive found a ton of cracked hoses there in the past also check to make sure you have your gas cap tight. check all the vac lines ect. thats the code for a large leak so you should be able to find it with a through visual inspection gas cap could be bad not sure how youd know that without a smoke machine though worse comes to worse get denny to sneak the smoke machine out of the shop under his ear or soemthing so you can use it for a few min *snicker* -- chris .

From : napalmheart

suddenly without warning roy exclaimed 9/13/2007 339 am it is a much more common problem than it once was because of modern casting techniques. the new processes allow much thinner and lighter castings but this by itself wouldnt be an issue if the casting was annealed before they machine it. of course that costs money and it isnt done. the newly machined manifold is actually better than a new one because your useage has already annealed the casting and it will not move again. in point of fact a gasket will not be necessary at all. however i would replace the studs as a matter of common sense. it costs very little when they are whole but very expensive if you have to pull the head to drill out a broken one and be sure to use anti seize compound on the threads. steve that would be my thoughts exactly. since he lives he did i miss something ah he just doesnt know me jmc very true. i am fairly new here and am just getting to know folks. sorry if i mis-gendered you jmc........- ed .

From : bob az

..bob wrote yamaha700@shaw.ca wrote i have a 06 dakota quad cab slt 4x4 with 4.7l engine with 3.55 limited slip rearend. whenever the truck is warmed up there is a very noticeable clunk whenever the truck is shifted into neutral or park from any gear any ideas also when going into reverse there is a slight clunk and then a whirring type whine. about 60-80 km/h there is a howling noise comes and goes with throttle position coasting- howl stops ease on the gas howl comes back. the truck was in at the dealer and they reprogrammed the transmission the dealer said that the noiseclunking and reverse engagement are normal! they said the howling is tire noise but yet the howling doesnt change with changes in road surface. should i get a 2nd opinion from a driveline shop or qustion the dealer more any ideas or answers are appreciated!! those are usually symptoms of a bad differential. park the truck on a flat surface. put it in neutral and set the parking brake. now put it in park. crawl under the truck and grab the drive shaft. try and turn it with your hand. differential end play is measured in thousands of an inch. if you can move the drive shaft a noticable amount the diff is toast. or its just loose universal joints. -- ken .