OT: Take a look
From : azwiley1
Q: that covers it. pretty convicing by me. -- christopher a. young you cant shout down a troll. you have to starve them. .. im with craig. ive used val for years on all 4 of my cars. nissan quest ford ranger dodge 1500 isuzu ascender no problem with pressure. im a satisfied val user. not to knock your trusted mechanic but other than adding new oil to obtain pressure what other evidence does he provide you that val is a poor product stormin mormon wrote first throw out every valvoline oil you own. drain the truck. replace all above with castrol. my last truck castrol was the only brand that prevented rod knock. also a mechanic i trust very strongly says that valvoline oil doesnt maintain viscosity. hes had a couple cases where the customer comes in with no oil pressure. he replaces the oil with quaker state leaves filter on. and the oil pressure comes back. .
Replies:
From : mac davis
it has been super slow sooo........ heres a subject that is getting more and more attention. sort of a 3 part thing. if we are to keep a large number of troops in the sand do we bring back the draft or do we continue to cycle the same troops through there tour after tour or do we pick up our troops and get out roy .
From : jmc
alt.fixedupoldreconditioneddodge found a set of 4 winter wheels that came off my lightning. forgot i had themwere at a friendsgotta sell them need a ford ford ng. that is active. tia roy .
From : roy
hello again i replaced the resistor pack in my 2003 dodge ram 1500 quad cab and the a/c still refuses to come on. when i adjust the blender control i can hear it moving behind the dash and i can hear the a/c compressor kick on/off but i get no flow through any of the vents. what else can i check and look for thanks eric. .
From : jmc
found a set of 4 winter wheels that came off my lightning. forgot i had themwere at a friendsgotta sell them need a ford ford ng. that is active. tia roy .
From : azwiley1
craig everybody has an opinion on brake pads....like people do with car wax..!!..but let me make just two remarks 1. a good number of years back we had a portion of the braking material crack off a pad of our sport-class road racing car. with few options we ran to the closest discount store got a set of performance friction pads and ran them for the closing practice session and the entire next day. while not replacements for the hawks we were supposed to be running my brother driver of said car was so impressed with their performance that he advised putting them on the hauler and our daily drivers -- very progressive feel with no heat fade and no squeal. i must have installed a couple dozen over the years with nary a complaint -- save for the fact that i think theyve made them slightly less aggressive over the years and you quickly get used to a hair less response when dead cold. i drive like a real jerk when i can and ive gotten years out of sets. even on contractors trucks i only had the chance to warrantee two pair lifetime warrantee - worn to spec -- the bosss truck and the service truck. 2. i dont have many beefs about the chinese rotors and im currently running a pair but on german cars that utilize a tapered retention screw ive seen them crack at that spot. with no dimensional difference i think were seeing the reality of a lesser alloy. in addition each set ive seen lately has been sold with a turned surface -- where you have to take an abrasive disc and give it a non-directional finish. no big deal if you have the equipment and dont mind doing so but it is one extra step. if you look at the big name brand youll see that they do indeed give the braking surface a superior finish -- one that you feel immediately at the pedal if you dont resurface the cheap stuff. caveat emptor -- jon .
From : Annonymous
ive read a few posts in this group about small shudders jolts etc when starting. i recently purchased a 2003 and had the same problem. its subtle - occurs in about 1 out of every 15 starts from a dead stop - its very subtle on mine. i changed the differential fluid last weekend and when i pulled the cover and let the oil drain i found lots of metal shavings like sand and a large retainer-looking clip - about an inch long. did a little searching and found there is a common problem on dodge ram 1500s with the 9.25 axel and the facvtory lsd. thought some of you might be interested in investigating if you have a truck that fits these years. looks like there are lots of people with this problem and it usually gives little to no warning before a failure. most of the people find it when changing fluids. there are 4 clips that are used to retain the clutch packs of the lsd in some manner and they are prone to coming loose and having freedom to roam around the pumpkin. with luck it will sit at the bottom by the magnet others come partially out and then score grooves on the bear cap and possibly requiring replacement of the axel housign itself. a catastrphic failure could occur if left long enough or simply by unluckiness of the draw immediately. so if youre close to required time to change fluids go ahead and do it early while you can still get warranty coverage. http//www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.phpt=111681&page=7&pp=20&highlight=rear+end+lsd+clip .
From : mac davis
on wed 11 oct 2006 094646 -0400 roy roy@home.net wrote i was assuming a cooling system flush was always a chemical flush where you flush it out with a special cleaner the shops around here all generally charge around $100 for a flush but when i asked the shop that i chose to use a shell station if its chem. flush he said no thats about $20 more $120. he said which one you want... i said i dont know which one i need. i told him its been around 4 years since the the last drain/replace....then he quickly looked inside opened the cap for 1 second and said youre fine just get regular flush. so i did that. whats your opinion on this is a non-chem flush really any different than a drain and replace he said yes because it drains it from the engine block as well as from the radiator. thanks. bro ya sorta lost me here. how does a chemical added to the flush change where the water is drained from maybe im wrong but a flush ya open everything. roy its not me... rofl mac https//home.comcast.net/mac.davis https//home.comcast.net/mac.davis/woodstuff.htm .
From : azwiley1
azwiley1 wrote ok really quick i have been playing around with idea for a long time and finally started to try and do something about it. there are a handful of people in the group that i would like to hear the thoughts and opinions from so instead of trying to email you all i figured i would post it here. if you wouldnt mind tom l. roy wabbit nate or who ever else look at this and let me hear it. please just keep in mind that it is a work in progress. mac budd you are exempt! g thanks all http//members.cox.net/komputershoppe/ks%20main.htm hi larry it looks like a good start! if i may id suggest you rename the main page to index.html or default.html. this is because all web browsers will look for one of those names if you just give http//members.cox.net/komputershoppe/ as the url. also not all web browsers are happy with spaces in filenames ks main.htm wont work with some older browsers. another technique is to use framesets which will allow you to have a menu. it will make it so you dont have to update *every* previous page when you make an addition... just add the new page and update the menu. that will be very handy if you have lots of content. bryan http//www.geocities.com/bswadener/ .