OT: PING --> cbhvac
From : nathan w collier
Q: this is driving everyone crazy. three different shops and the dealership cant figure it out. when i hit a bump at highway speed the whole truck starts shacking like a wheel coming off. has anyone had this trouble before .
Replies:
From : transurgeon
looking west right yup....standing in cody looking at a gateway to yellowstone. -- nathan w. collier http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com .
From : nathan w collier
lp13-30 wrote hi. i know this is a dodge truck forum but i posted in dodge autos and didnt get any replies so hopefully i can get some info from the dodge gurus here. there is a 90 dynasty for sale by an individual close to my house. i am askng this for someone else--i am not interested in the car myself. however it is exceptionally clean for the age-- about 110k v6 auto asking $1000. are there any inherant problems/flaws in these cars things to be especally wary of just wondering before i go any farther.any advice will be greatly appreciated. thanks larry theres only one inherent flaw in that car - its a pos. a car like that is a pure money pit. one of the worst reliability records of any american car. i think the only car that has a worse record is the k car. -- ..bob 1997 hd fxdwg - turbocharged! 2001 dodge dakota qc 5.9/4x4/3.92 1966 mustang coupe - daily driver 1966 ffr cobra - ongoing project .
From : nathan w collier
carolina watercraft works wrote what does everyone think of this new ram...besides its about time http//autoadvice.about.com/od/dodg1/ss/dodgerammegacab.htm http//www.pickuptruck.com/html/2006/dodge/ram/mega/page1.html they added a few inches to the rear of the cab and removed a few inches from the bed. im not impressed. its handy i suppose. but it doesnt get me excited. -- ..bob 1997 hd fxdwg - turbocharged! 2001 dodge dakota qc 5.9/4x4/3.92 1966 mustang coupe - daily driver 1966 ffr cobra - ongoing project .
From : greg o
depends on your music tastes look at the formats and see which offers you the best line up for what you like to listen too and go with that. also before you buy decide if you want to use it only in your car/truck or also at home. this will make a difference in what products you buy. i.e the xm commander is an in car only product so if you want to use it at home you need to go with something like the skifi 2. larry what do you have and whats the pros and cons!! .
From : tom lawrence
i laughed i cried .....you cant expect everyone to understand man shit. ;- -- nathan w. collier http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com .
From : transurgeon
thanks. i will try your test. dave .
From : azwiley1
for this application the brakesmart controller http//www.brakesmart.net may be a better choice. that system looks promising...thanks! however the website is saying there are production delays. any idea how long these delays might be -- nathan w. collier http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com .
From : nathan w collier
i want to see the pics 1st! some things there shouldnt ever be a picture taken of..... like you in a speedo!! bfg ifn i was you i dont know if id talk too awful much mr pudgy wudgy vbfg do you still have the ford or did you get rid of it when you got the truck denny .
From : nathan w collier
i posted a message a few weeks back. i was the guy with a blown heater core and developed a bunch of other problems after replacing it. several people offered troubleshooting help and i wanted to report back what worked. problem 1 the speedometer didnt work until i hit 35mph and the engine would die when i came to a stop. fix the abs speed sensor in the rear differential. cost me $45 and im still trying to break the habit of goosing the engine a little at stoplights to keep it from dying. problem 2 i rather loud and irritating resonant noise at around 2500rpm. fix i replaced the fan clutch. the noise was still there but with a different tone and at about 2300rpm and the engine now roared until it warmed up. the guy at autozone said that the clutch can kill the water pump if the vehicle is driven that way for an extended period. would 9months be an extended period yeah i thought so. i took the clutch back got my $50 back and put the quiet when cold clutch back on. if i have an extra $150 laying around at some point in the future ill replace the fan clutch and waterpump. but barring a leak ill just live with the noise. but heh at least i got to spend over $100 buying a new pnuematic brake booster. a $100 part i replaced thinking it was the source of the noise new problem looks like my oil pressure isnt coming up in the morning like it always has. it always comes up to just shy of 40psi hesitates a few seconds and then jumps well past that mark. takes a lot longer for the second jump now. yes i have oil in the sump 8* i was hoping that i might be a bad connection where i screwed up putting things back together from the heater core repair. but it appears that everything is designed to fall apart at 5yr or 100000miles. since the 80s ive thought american cars were a bad deal. it just seems that a corporate decision was made to design the vehicle to last 5yrs the amount of time for a lease or typical car loan. not that there is anything wrong with the engineering machining or quality control. just a conscious decision that we will not spend one red cent to make these cars last past the trade in date. i bought the quadcab dakota in 2000 because the nissan 4-door light truck didnt have any leg room in the back seat. i justified the dodge purchase with the reasoning that detroit must have learned its lesson and is making cars that will last 10yrs with reasonable maintenance. it appears i was born on the minute. i will run this truck till it drops but i wont make the same mistake again. -- this is by far the hardest lesson about freedom. it goes against instinct and morality to just sit back and watch people make mistakes. we want to help them which means control them and their decisions but in doing so we actually hurt them and ourselves. .
From : cbhvac
yup...will do man... sorry...had some issues here and actually had not gotten this group back on the server till today...talk about timing..lol lost your email address. could you send it again please budd always delete spam before replying .
From : dale yonz
any ideas on why when the ambient temp is above 40f that when i start my 2000 durango the idle is rough and occasionally jumps to around 2000rpms it also revs up when i shift into park and if im stopped and the vehicle is in drive the idle is not smooth. .
From : nathan w collier
very good mechanical and physical condition 318 v8 145k miles still runs strong. must must must sell!!!!!!! pa truck now in northeast ohio. email for more info. must sell!!!!!! $800 .
From : greg o
anybody know where i can get some new door retaining clips for my 2000 dodge ram online thanks .
From : nathan w collier
what ever! ;^ apparently you have experience in refrigeration yeah but im the past i only did it when i had to in order to fill the gaps. qualified ref. techs out here are in such demand that i cant walk away from the money.....and im having a good time learning the rack systems. besides check out this view that i got to look at all day today from the roof top of a large store down in cody. http//utilityoffroad.com/images/forumpics/codyrt.jpg if it doesnt load click refresh after it loads. what ever happened to the welding gig you were going to do in the frozen north ironically now ill only weld in order to fill any gaps that might come when it slows down next winter. i enjoy welding more than anything else but out here the money is in refrigeration. -- nathan w. collier http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com .
From : Annonymous
can anyone direct me to a supplier of battery cables left battery to starter or splice on terminals for this vehicle. one lug of the terminal + has broken temp fix will probably get me through the summer but i want a proper connection for the winter that is not going to cost me my first born and my left testicle if i go through my local dodge dealer. already checked my local parts gurus and wrecking yards they all smile and say good luck. any direction would be appreciated. thx. ljb have no idea what the cable end looks like but i always can figure out a way to replace them. if its a large lug i make it out of soft copper pipe. just flatten it and drill a hole and solder the cable in the open end. al .
From : transurgeon
any useful input is welcomed! many thanks!! that connectors wiring goes straight to the pcm so if we assume for the moment that the pcm is functioning properly the only other possibility is a wiring problem. you can do some basic troubleshooting with a dvm digital volt meter. looking at the connector under the dash with the longer side facing up pin #1 is in the upper-left #8 in the upper-right #9 in the lower-left and #16 in the lower-right. check pins 4 and 5 for ground. check #16 for +12v when the ignition is on. if you have ground but no voltage check for a blown 10a fuse in the fuse panel. otherwise check the wiring from the connector - make sure nothings loose pinched shorted etc. .
From : Annonymousnathan w collier
greetings i need a bit of advice from the gurus... delaware changed their inspection requirements to include being able to hook up to the obd ii for emissions information and i just failed my inspection because it got no signal. i took it over to a friends house and used his cable & laptop and got the same thing. no input whatsoever. unfortunately the emissions warranty expired 20k miles ago. does anyone have any experience with this is there a common problem loose connector in a specific location etc maybe a way to reset it ive already tried pulling the battery cable im really dreading dropping it at the local dodge dealer and being at the mercy of their electricians labor costs. any useful input is welcomed! many thanks!! -- chris http//www.choxnpinz.com .
From : azwiley1
nathan w. collier wrote apparently you have experience in refrigeration yeah but im the past i only did it when i had to in order to fill the gaps. qualified ref. techs out here are in such demand that i cant walk away from the money.....and im having a good time learning the rack systems. besides check out this view that i got to look at all day today from the roof top of a large store down in cody. http//utilityoffroad.com/images/forumpics/codyrt.jpg if it doesnt load click refresh after it loads. ah shit you fooled me here i thought there be a picture of some goregeous babe walking into the store and you nate having a nice bird i view of things. nice view anyhow dale .
From : webmaster carolinabreezehvac com
thanks tom ive ordered a kit off ebay thats supposed to fit my truck so when it gets here im going to tear into it. a shade tree mechanic replaced the pitman arm for me and sufices to say im pretty sure he made the seal around the sector shaft leak by beating on the side of the old pitman arm while he was trying to take it off. he had a pitman arm puller that i leased from autozone but for some reason we had pure hell getting that pitman arm to break loose and come off there. that happened last month and the seal has been leaking pretty much since then. john new or rebuilt ones cost an arm and a leg. the rebuild kit is only 9.99.. can this be done by an amature john yep - done it before... pretty simple. you can do it with the gear still bolted into the truck but its a whole lot easier if you can remove it. either way youll need a pitman arm puller to remove the pitman arm after removing the big pitman arm nut. from here if you just disconnect the two hoses let them drain into a bucket or suitable clean container - you can re-use the fluid if it doesnt get dirty then unbolt the gear from the frame. as for the work itself i forget the exact steps been a while since i disassembled mine but aside from a snap ring everything comes right out you can remove the sector shaft by removing the four bolts around the perimeter of the cover. do not touch the adjuster nut in the middle. now - if the gear was leaking just because the seal went bad then the $10 kit will fix it. if it started leaking because the roller bearing wore and allowed the sector shaft to flex side-to-side then youll need to replace the roller bearing and i dont think this is included in the $10 rebuild kit. .
From : budd cochran
glad youre back. hope everythings ok now. budd cbhvac wrote yup...will do man... sorry...had some issues here and actually had not gotten this group back on the server till today...talk about timing..lol lost your email address. could you send it again please budd always delete spam before replying .
From : cbhvac
yup...everythings ok...still not used to being called grandpa...but things are back to a semi sort of normal. glad youre back. hope everythings ok now. budd cbhvac wrote yup...will do man... sorry...had some issues here and actually had not gotten this group back on the server till today...talk about timing..lol lost your email address. could you send it again please budd always delete spam before replying .
From : redneck tookover hell
still not used to being called grandpa. bet you been called a lot worse!!!! bg a dyslexic man walks into a bra. .
From : cbhvac
yea..once i was called a redneck... still not used to being called grandpa. bet you been called a lot worse!!!! bg a dyslexic man walks into a bra. .
From : budd cochran
grandpa huh ive still got a son in the navy . . . i dont know if i can claim being a grandpa . . . . . should i offer my congrats vbg -- budd cochran yup...everythings ok...still not used to being called grandpa...but things are back to a semi sort of normal. glad youre back. hope everythings ok now. budd cbhvac wrote yup...will do man... sorry...had some issues here and actually had not gotten this group back on the server till today...talk about timing..lol lost your email address. could you send it again please budd always delete spam before replying .
From : the guy
i usually just recommend the tekonsha prodigy what i use which is a very good inertia-based controller - easy to install easy to use. however there is some manual adjustment to it you dial in the base amount of brake and can then select additional brake boosting to compensate for a loaded vs. empty trailer. for this application the brakesmart controller http//www.brakesmart.net may be a better choice. once you initially set it up thats it - youre done. it works by measuring actual hydraulic pressure in the vehicles braking system and applying a proportional amount of braking to your trailer... essentially giving you the same type of response as a full hydraulic braking system running to your trailer. you never have to worry about changing the adjustments because you changed trailers or added/subtracted weight. .