OT Home A/C

From : roy

Q: on fri 24 aug 2007 122238 -0500 craig c. mcraigchr@gmail.com wrote mac davis wrote the wife got back from a shopping trip yesterday with a very wet passenger side carpet.. is it purely water or is there anti-freeze mixed with it craig c. seems to just be water... no smell or taste.. now that ya tasted it bro figure it is okay to tell ya that your cat had a accident. gbmfg roy mac please remove splinters before emailing .

Replies:

From : azwiley1

in response to fawilson s post. i thought everyone should know great question but no there is not an egr. snip cant recall and i dont have a 96 service manual here. but does it have an egr might wanna check it if it does. so much for my shot in the dark off the hip guess. lol any codes -- chris .

From : chris thompson

ive got a 97 dakota longbed 2wd. would it be worth the money to get bilsteins any ideas are welcomed. ken ended up getting gabriel ultra truck shocks. average price $40 each with a rebate of the cost of 1 shock. i cant see spending 2x or more that cost on this truck at this time. theyre still a lot better than what was on it. ken .

From : greg o

hell while we are on the whole home ac thing again has anyone had their crawl space/attic sprayed with that spray foam insulation what were your results costs ect.. i am thinking about having this done in my attic and on to the flex duct for the ac/heat unit. .

From : azwiley1

please help!! i need step by step instruction on removing the dash and replacing my heater core. this outlines changing the evaporator but the process is the same http//autoclinic.net/article/chrysler/98ramevaporator.htm .

From : mac davis

mac davis wrote on wed 29 aug 2007 113229 -0500 craig c. mcraigchr@gmail.com wrote look into my eyes ... you will be a mac bigot ... you will be a mac bigot. - craig c. i wish youd say apple or macintosh... lol. betcha didnt know you were so well liked did you craig c. .

From : miles

hi all. i have a 98 ram1500 4x45.9auto. this morning the brake and abs light didnt go offany ideas thanks in advance for any information. elden the best thing would be to get it scanned and have the diagnostic codes. if you dont want to do that my 97 dakota had the same problem and i replaced the speed sensor that is on the differential housing. the lights went out. your mmv. ken .

From : azwiley1

on aug 27 600 pm chris thompson kf4drr-no-sp...@windstream.net wrote in response to theguy s post. i thought everyone should know on mon 27 aug 2007 234145 +0000 chris thompson kf4drr-no-sp...@windstream.net wrote in response to theguy s post. i thought everyone should know wow sheryl is back i go away for a couple ofweeks and it returns. what are you eluding to a connection there actually all i said was that i went away on vacation and while i was gone away it looked to me like sheryl had returned to the ng to post again. i wasnt eluding anything nor for that matter was i alluding to anything. instead chris i was just saying. hehe i had to try the jab. -- chris- hide quoted text - - show quoted text - a jab is what sheryl is hunting for again. maybe snoball realized she was a waste of time and kicker her ass to the curb .

From : beryl

in response to theguy s post. i thought everyone should know on mon 27 aug 2007 234145 +0000 chris thompson kf4drr-no-spam-@windstream.net wrote in response to theguy s post. i thought everyone should know wow sheryl is back i go away for a couple ofweeks and it returns. what are you eluding to a connection there actually all i said was that i went away on vacation and while i was gone away it looked to me like sheryl had returned to the ng to post again. i wasnt eluding anything nor for that matter was i alluding to anything. instead chris i was just saying. hehe i had to try the jab. -- chris .

From : nza

on aug 28 523 pm nosey kfre...@removethis.hotmail.com wrote ive had good luck with wearever gold semi-metallic pads sold by advance auto stores. there may be better pads out there but these work well and dont wear out abnormally fast. they also have a lifetime warranty if you plan on keeping the vehicle for a while. put your old pads in the box along with the reciept for the new ones. when you need to change pads the next time just return the ones you took off this time. before i say anything i would like to say that i am not trying to flame you at all. however i have to vehemently disagree with this practice. imho this is part of the reason everything costs so much these days and also a reason many mom-and-pop stores go out of bidness -- the replace it under any circumstance attitude.. if i use a set of brake pads for 3 years and wear them to the backing that is not a manufacturers defect. that is normal wear and the company from which i purchased the brake pads should not have to pay for a new set of pads. i really dont understand why *any* parts-store should have to replace a normally worn set of brakes. or even abnormally worn set of brakes. unless they failed a week after i installed them or i never used them to begin i would never return them -- honestly i would feel guilty returning them for replacement if i wore them out normally.. that said i have had good luck with the highest quality advance auto brake pads as well. alas this is not my vehicle and i dont like to put less than the best on something im working on for someone else. it saves re-dos and reputation as well.. and its the brakes. there was a good article in car craft magazine about bedding new brake pads. it may help the brake performance with whatever pads you choose to use. seehttp//www.freefilehosting.org/public/44720/brakebedding.pdf i always do this procedure when installing new brakes. i hate squealing brakes. was a bit disappointed that the section about bedding the clutch was not there.... hadnt read this article before. .

From : nza

nza wrote in another thread i spoke of the poor braking of my grandfathers 2004 town and country. almost all of the 23000 miles it has seen have been in-town. the longest highway drives it has seen have been give or take 70 miles each way. okay so... before i waste my time going to the dealer i am going to replace the brake pads myself and see if the braking improves. i plan on purchasing bendix pads. hopefully in organic flavor. anyone recommend another type ive had good results from bendix on other cars.. when i worked on german trash we *always* used oem pads so not trusting the oem brake pads in this case is something new to me. ive had good luck with wearever gold semi-metallic pads sold by advance auto stores. there may be better pads out there but these work well and dont wear out abnormally fast. they also have a lifetime warranty if you plan on keeping the vehicle for a while. put your old pads in the box along with the reciept for the new ones. when you need to change pads the next time just return the ones you took off this time. there was a good article in car craft magazine about bedding new brake pads. it may help the brake performance with whatever pads you choose to use. see http//www.freefilehosting.org/public/44720/brakebedding.pdf -- ken .

From : roy

on aug 28 324 pm roy r...@fhome.net wrote roy wrote there was a thread around a bit ago that had to do with home a/c what was the outcome who makes the best and most energy efficient trying to be of the game when this unit fails. roy would you please stop stirring the pot - you are correct i apologize. when it comes to pot it should be smoked not stirred. vbg craig c. yeah tends to pull through when stirred.. .

From : tbone

on aug 28 217 pm tbone tbonenos...@nc.rr.com wrote while this could be done what exactly would be the point by the time you are done building the structure to hold the compressor condenser drive motor cooling fan and then create all of the plumbing for the evaporator and fitting it into your air handler you would probably spend even more money and a hell of a lot more time than just buying a comparable unit. precisely why i threw the idea out there... to debunk it with the brains of others instead of just my own. the only point of it i could imagine is that the cooling capacity would be much greater than your average home unit. thats it. .

From : nza

in response to el jr64 s post. i thought everyone should know hi all. i have a 98 ram1500 4x45.9auto. this morning the brake and abs light didnt go offany ideas thanks in advance for any information. elden most of the time its the speed sensor in the rear axle housing. but as posted you may want to have the codes pulled just to be sure. just remember that the standard code reader will not pull those codes. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : roy

i thought that you would - -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving ill just let it drop. gee i guess we will all sleep better tonight now.bfg .

From : roy

roy wrote would you please stop stirring the pot - you are correct i apologize. when it comes to pot it should be smoked not stirred. vbg or shit in. that explains where beryl originated. - craig c. .

From : tbone

roy wrote there was a thread around a bit ago that had to do with home a/c what was the outcome who makes the best and most energy efficient trying to be of the game when this unit fails. roy would you please stop stirring the pot - you are correct i apologize. when it comes to pot it should be smoked not stirred. vbg craig c. .

From : tbone

ill just let it drop. gee i guess we will all sleep better tonight now.bfg .

From : Annonymous

hi all. i have a 98 ram1500 4x45.9auto. this morning the brake and abs light didnt go offany ideas thanks in advance for any information. elden .

From : beryl

beryl wrote except it was you who plopped into the thread with incorrect assumptions in your attempt to insult me. excessive rhetoric snipped geez beryl!! you have way too much free time!! .

From : ed h

translated via babelfish.com traduit par lintermdiaire de babelfish.com no bus means a bad data connection between computers. because the engine quits it is probably a problem with the engines computer. before replacing parts check all electrical connections especially the ground wires for all the computers. sorry i dont know where those wires are or what color they are. no bus signifie un mauvais raccordement de donnes entre les ordinateurs. puisque le moteur stoppe cest probablement un problme avec lordinateur du moteur. avant de remplacer des pices vrifiez tous les raccordements lectriques particulirement les fils de masse pour tous les ordinateurs. dsol je ne sais pas o ces fils sont ou quelle couleur ils sont. morpheus nebuchadnezzar morpheus.nebuchadnezzar@hotmail.com wrote in sorry for my bad english - i speak french... hello my father in law have a dodge dakota 1998 5.2 l. his truck just stop and the error code no bus appear in the odometer. her have to wait minutes or hours before the truck start again - but it start... then stop after minutes or hours. he have change the coil coy then the pickup coil gaz pump and the issue persist. next step will be to change the crank sensor. do you have any suggestion or more questions to ask because im a neweber in this matter... thanks for him ! morpheus .

From : azwiley1

on aug 26 722 pm beryl terra...@coolbits.net wrote ask the it tech what needs to be flashed when you install a hard drive. -- you really dont know shit than do you cock breath flash cock breath when you recover from a hdd crash or failure and you are starting from fresh some thing will need to be flashed for the system to work properly again. but fuck im only an it tech what the hell do i uh must have mis-understood this one myself but im sure someone will correct me post haste.. i have been dicking with computers for at least half my life and cant recall a single time flashing anything except my middle finger at the computer when recovering the system. unless of course you consider installing an os on the new hard drive to be flashing the new os onto the system. go ahead flame on. as usual beryl jumped to several conclusions in that thread in an attempt to insult me. first he at least i think its a male assumed i was installing adobe flash player then it assumed i re-installed the same version of the system bios then it assumed i didnt perform any software or hardware upgrades. because it never asked me a question only attempted to belittle me i played with it lett

From : chris thompson

corrected it when it was wrong which was just about every reply to me. 1 or 2 questions on its part may have prevented it from looking like an ass but i doubt that; its not its habit to to be helpful only to attack. given beryls reputation in this ng just search for his posts and youll see enough to know what i mean azwiley1 got caught up in it too and later gave a specific example regarding the above quote but beryl doesnt seem to believe him. im not familiar with the hardware in the example so i cant comment on that. beryl on the other hand comments on lots of things and sometimes admits it knows nothing about what it was talking about yet it blames that on the person it is responding to. hang out here long enough and you might have a change play with it too. . 222 338606 af7f7$46d37e81$45286f0b$17597@alltel.net in response to azwiley1 s post. i thought everyone should know on aug 27 600 pm chris thompson kf4drr-no-sp...@windstream.net wrote in response to theguy s post. i thought everyone should know on mon 27 aug 2007 234145 +0000 chris thompson kf4drr-no-sp...@windstream.net wrote in response to theguy s post. i thought everyone should know wow sheryl is back i go away for a couple ofweeks and it returns. what are you eluding to a connection there actually all i said was that i went away on vacation and while i was gone away it looked to me like sheryl had returned to the ng to post again. i wasnt eluding anything nor for that matter was i alluding to anything. instead chris i was just saying. hehe i had to try the jab. -- chris- hide quoted text - - show quoted text - a jab is what sheryl is hunting for again. maybe snoball realized she was a waste of time and kicker her ass to the curb lol -- chris .

From : Annonymous

on aug 27 532 pm beryl terra...@coolbits.net wrote nza wrote on aug 26 722 pm beryl terra...@coolbits.net wrote ask the it tech what needs to be flashed when you install a hard drive. -- you really dont know shit than do you cock breath flash cock breath when you recover from a hdd crash or failure and you are starting from fresh some thing will need to be flashed for the system to work properly again. but fuck im only an it tech what the hell do i uh must have mis-understood this one myself but im sure someone will correct me post haste.. i have been dicking with computers for at least half my life and cant recall a single time flashing anything except my middle finger at the computer when recovering the system. unless of course you consider installing an os on the new hard drive to be flashing the new os onto the system. go ahead flame on. azwiley1 is a self-proclaimed it tech that never figured out how to configure his own pc at home and he recently started his own biz putting together custom pcs for the suckers in tucson. self proclaimed funny my dergree is in network technology and i was hired on as a gs-9 2210 it tech but i am self proclaimed. also of interesting and funny note never once did i ever state or mention starting my own biz in tucson. i did state i started one but you are assuming it was in tucson based off the fact that this is where i live now. i suppose i should not be surprised that the simple minded would jump to such conclusions. oh well. hey they are building a brand new 40k sq. ft mental health ward at work ill have them reserve a room for you. .

From : nza

nza wrote on aug 26 722 pm beryl terra...@coolbits.net wrote ask the it tech what needs to be flashed when you install a hard drive. -- you really dont know shit than do you cock breath flash cock breath when you recover from a hdd crash or failure and you are starting from fresh some thing will need to be flashed for the system to work properly again. but fuck im only an it tech what the hell do i uh must have mis-understood this one myself but im sure someone will correct me post haste.. i have been dicking with computers for at least half my life and cant recall a single time flashing anything except my middle finger at the computer when recovering the system. unless of course you consider installing an os on the new hard drive to be flashing the new os onto the system. go ahead flame on. azwiley1 is a self-proclaimed it tech that never figured out how to configure his own pc at home and he recently started his own biz putting together custom pcs for the suckers in tucson. anyway heres something i was told about a long time ago and have always wanted to try it but never have gotten around to it -- take the complete a/c system from a car and use it to cool a house. the example i was told about was for a house on the nc outer banks and supposedly used a delco a-6 compressor and an electric motor to spin it. i do not know from where the other components were sourced. i could see using a larger evaporator and condensor possibly.. anyone done this in the past sure i know its probably more logical just to use a central unit.. neat idea. or you could use a turbofan engine and air cycle machine from a junked airliner. .

From : chris thompson

on mon 27 aug 2007 234145 +0000 chris thompson kf4drr-no-spam-@windstream.net wrote in response to theguy s post. i thought everyone should know wow sheryl is back i go away for a couple ofweeks and it returns. what are you eluding to a connection there actually all i said was that i went away on vacation and while i was gone away it looked to me like sheryl had returned to the ng to post again. i wasnt eluding anything nor for that matter was i alluding to anything. instead chris i was just saying. .

From : azwiley1

in response to theguy s post. i thought everyone should know wow sheryl is back i go away for a couple ofweeks and it returns. what are you eluding to a connection there -- chris . 222 338598 46d34ec2$0$18817$4c368faf@roadrunner.com yeah i hit on them the other night. that site produced results that were lined in gold. i thank you for all your help and if you think of other parts sites i will save them. heres another one local to me. ive used them before but its been years and years. if i can remember the other local chrysler parts specialty yard ill post it as well. http//www.chryslerheaven.com/default.htm thanks i didnt have this site. i did have and used www.car-parts.com but to no avail. i will find one eventually - if i live long enough. so far its been 3 weeks and ive located 2. however locating any details on either one has been futile. i ask they say yes and thats it. no pictures no price no condition no nothing further. yes youve interpreted my poorly worded response correctly. you can give this site a shot http//www.junkyards.com/ someone may chime in with some better ones. good answer. now i am limited to the ext. cab doors only. you mentioned the power stuff swapping in/out. i take that to mean i can use either power or non-power but must stick with the ext. cab doors only. thanks for that info. now i just need to locate one which has been a monumental task to date. i am going to plan a day on the phone with bone yards when my minutes refresh. an internet presence would help but they are just not up to that yet. does anyone here know if a rh manual door from a 98 dakota regular cab will bolt up to an ext. cab 1998 also and the electronics mount into it from the electric door i have an electric door thats been hit and found a manual door thats real nice. i just dont know if it will work and dont want to buy it then find out. thanks abby.normal @ tx . rr .com iirc the standard cab has a rounded bottom rear corner and the extended cab has a squared off bottom rear corner. the power stuff will swap in but i dont think youll like the fit... .

From : beryl

on aug 27 1013 am azwiley1 wiley...@yahoo.com wrote on aug 27 950 am the...@whatever.net wrote on mon 27 aug 2007 085753 -0400 roy r...@fhome.net wrote big snip so with all of this one again i will ask the oh so simple question. other than in your mind because you have a desire to make everything that i post be wrong how come in cases such as above and in many other posts that i know for fact you read you have not proven me wrong because the idiot uncrossed his legs and let the crotch cannibal lift his head. oh it is also a troll. fear not he will disappear as soon as he determines he wont be fed his usual diet of dick wow sheryl is back i go away for a couple ofweeks and it returns. i would think larry that you should actually be proud of yourself. you have obviously done something to really hurt its fragile ego or that of its boyfriend snotroll. in other words you must have done something right to be able to gather so much time and attention from it. - hide quoted text - - show quoted text - lol- hide quoted text - - show quoted text - i guess you are right guy i must be lucky. .

From : tbone

thanks i didnt have this site. i did have and used www.car-parts.com but to no avail. i will find one eventually - if i live long enough. so far its been 3 weeks and ive located 2. however locating any details on either one has been futile. i ask they say yes and thats it. no pictures no price no condition no nothing further. yes youve interpreted my poorly worded response correctly. you can give this site a shot http//www.junkyards.com/ someone may chime in with some better ones. good answer. now i am limited to the ext. cab doors only. you mentioned the power stuff swapping in/out. i take that to mean i can use either power or non-power but must stick with the ext. cab doors only. thanks for that info. now i just need to locate one which has been a monumental task to date. i am going to plan a day on the phone with bone yards when my minutes refresh. an internet presence would help but they are just not up to that yet. does anyone here know if a rh manual door from a 98 dakota regular cab will bolt up to an ext. cab 1998 also and the electronics mount into it from the electric door i have an electric door thats been hit and found a manual door thats real nice. i just dont know if it will work and dont want to buy it then find out. thanks abby.normal @ tx . rr .com iirc the standard cab has a rounded bottom rear corner and the extended cab has a squared off bottom rear corner. the power stuff will swap in but i dont think youll like the fit... .

From : berylazwiley1

greg o wrote greg o wrote then i go on the net and i see seer and eer ratings used on both ac and heat pump. seems to me someone changed the rules sometime in the last couple years! greg nah my 12 year old unit had a seer rating as does my new unit. ac only or heat pump greg heat pump .

From : azwiley1

heres another one local to me. ive used them before but its been years and years. if i can remember the other local chrysler parts specialty yard ill post it as well. http//www.chryslerheaven.com/default.htm thanks i didnt have this site. i did have and used www.car-parts.com but to no avail. i will find one eventually - if i live long enough. so far its been 3 weeks and ive located 2. however locating any details on either one has been futile. i ask they say yes and thats it. no pictures no price no condition no nothing further. yes youve interpreted my poorly worded response correctly. you can give this site a shot http//www.junkyards.com/ someone may chime in with some better ones. good answer. now i am limited to the ext. cab doors only. you mentioned the power stuff swapping in/out. i take that to mean i can use either power or non-power but must stick with the ext. cab doors only. thanks for that info. now i just need to locate one which has been a monumental task to date. i am going to plan a day on the phone with bone yards when my minutes refresh. an internet presence would help but they are just not up to that yet. does anyone here know if a rh manual door from a 98 dakota regular cab will bolt up to an ext. cab 1998 also and the electronics mount into it from the electric door i have an electric door thats been hit and found a manual door thats real nice. i just dont know if it will work and dont want to buy it then find out. thanks abby.normal @ tx . rr .com iirc the standard cab has a rounded bottom rear corner and the extended cab has a squared off bottom rear corner. the power stuff will swap in but i dont think youll like the fit... .

From : azwiley1

jeffrey david miller wrote when i first bought my 98 dodge ram the dome light didnt light up no big deal. checked bulb and fuses no luck. checked all the fuses and replaced the cigar lighter fuse. it was only one that was bad checked both boxes. now almost a year later my dash lights dont come. checked all of the fuses again any nothing. any suggestions id check the interior light dimmer. it controls the dash lights and the dome light. -- ken .

From : Annonymous

on aug 27 950 am the...@whatever.net wrote on mon 27 aug 2007 085753 -0400 roy r...@fhome.net wrote big snip so with all of this one again i will ask the oh so simple question. other than in your mind because you have a desire to make everything that i post be wrong how come in cases such as above and in many other posts that i know for fact you read you have not proven me wrong because the idiot uncrossed his legs and let the crotch cannibal lift his head. oh it is also a troll. fear not he will disappear as soon as he determines he wont be fed his usual diet of dick wow sheryl is back i go away for a couple ofweeks and it returns. i would think larry that you should actually be proud of yourself. you have obviously done something to really hurt its fragile ego or that of its boyfriend snotroll. in other words you must have done something right to be able to gather so much time and attention from it. - hide quoted text - - show quoted text - lol .

From : greg o

in response to roy s post. i thought everyone should know im sure the loss of a pizza hut must have been hard for you to take.g well as long as the white castle is ok hell live thanks friend for your concern... bg denny .

From : roy

good answer. now i am limited to the ext. cab doors only. you mentioned the power stuff swapping in/out. i take that to mean i can use either power or non-power but must stick with the ext. cab doors only. thanks for that info. now i just need to locate one which has been a monumental task to date. i am going to plan a day on the phone with bone yards when my minutes refresh. an internet presence would help but they are just not up to that yet. does anyone here know if a rh manual door from a 98 dakota regular cab will bolt up to an ext. cab 1998 also and the electronics mount into it from the electric door i have an electric door thats been hit and found a manual door thats real nice. i just dont know if it will work and dont want to buy it then find out. thanks abby.normal @ tx . rr .com iirc the standard cab has a rounded bottom rear corner and the extended cab has a squared off bottom rear corner. the power stuff will swap in but i dont think youll like the fit... .

From : beekeep

does anyone here know if a rh manual door from a 98 dakota regular cab will bolt up to an ext. cab 1998 also and the electronics mount into it from the electric door i have an electric door thats been hit and found a manual door thats real nice. i just dont know if it will work and dont want to buy it then find out. thanks abby.normal @ tx . rr .com iirc the standard cab has a rounded bottom rear corner and the extended cab has a squared off bottom rear corner. the power stuff will swap in but i dont think youll like the fit... .

From : ed h

big snip so with all of this one again i will ask the oh so simple question. other than in your mind because you have a desire to make everything that i post be wrong how come in cases such as above and in many other posts that i know for fact you read you have not proven me wrong because the idiot uncrossed his legs and let the crotch cannibal lift his head. oh it is also a troll. fear not he will disappear as soon as he determines he wont be fed his usual diet of dick .

From : azwiley1

evlu wrote would like to know what is the voltage range the pcm sends to this alternator. this is off a 2000 durango. i have tried a standard electronic voltage regulator but it sends 12 volts to this alternator and was told that they require less voltage to work properly 5v. would appreciate any help with this project. thanks evlu the alternator field winding is driven by a pwm pulse width modulated signal that goes from zero to 12v. the more output current needed from the alternator the longer the on time and the less off time of the pwm signal affecting the average voltage to and current in the field winding. examples 12v x 10% on time = 1.2v 12v x 50% on time = 6.0v 12v x 90% on time = 10.8v thus the duty-cycle for 5v would be approximately 5 / 12 x 100 = 41.67%. the current in the field winding is directly related to the average voltage to it. however since power = volts x amperes the power consumed in the field isnt a straight line. bryan .

From : miles

dont waste your keystrokes on this troll. beryl and snoman are 2 personalities trapped in one body. the beryl personality expends so much energy typing coherent sentences that it taxes the physical limits of the combined body. have you ever seen beryl and snoman post near the same time on aug 26 422 pm beryl terra...@coolbits.net wrote greg o wrote tom lawrence wrote you have it backwards heat pumps do go by seer or seasonal energy eficency rating and it is seasonal because heat pump can heat and cool and plain central a/cs go by eer. you better call trane and tell them theyre wrong as theyre rating their plain central a/cs by seer http//www.trane.com/residential/products/airconditioners/xl19i.aspx seems seer applies to both. my heat pump has a seer rating. i did some more digging too. i have older ruud literature sitting right on my desk showing ac and heat pump unit rating acs in seer and heat pumps in eer. then i go on the net and i see seer and eer ratings used on both ac and heat pump. seems to me someone changed the rules sometime in the last couple years! greg http//www.eia.doe.gov/glossary/glossarys.htm the average heat pump or central air conditioner sold in 1986 had an seer of about 9 puts usage of the term *seer* with heat pumps 21 years ago. ask the it tech what needs to be flashed when you install a hard drive. -- you really dont know shit than do you cock breath flash cock breath when you recover from a hdd crash or failure and you are starting from fresh some thing will need to be flashed for the system to work properly again. but fuck im only an it tech what the hell do i hide quoted text - - show quoted text - you just cant let shit go can you cock breath what a sorry and pitiful man you are. shame you have to continue to live life in the past. .

From : azwiley1

on aug 26 459 pm beryl terra...@coolbits.net wrote punkin ... see unlike you i do not constantly post about things i know nothing about sure you do headlight bulbs relays alternators motor oil jumper cables etc... you even work with things you know nothing about really! you really dont know shit than do you cock breath flash cock breath when you recover from a hdd crash or failure and you are starting from fresh some thing will need to be flashed for the system to work properly again. but fuck im only an it tech what the hell do i once again you just cant let shit go can you cock breath what a sorry and pitiful man you are. shame you have to continue to live life in the past. but lets see here i will play your little game this one time motor oil i was not wrong about it you could not and did not prove me wrong either. it was a simple matter of the fact that you did not argee with what i said that does not mean i am wrong nor does it mean you were right. it means only that you did not agree. jumper cables hmm show me where we had a discussion about them and where i was wrong please. there was one comment made about that subject. again it does not and did not make me wrong. you just wish to believe that. alternators. again i was not wrong about it you could not and did not prove me wrong either. it was a simple matter of the fact that you did not argee with what i said that does not mean i am wrong nor does it mean you were right. it means only that you did not agree. headlight bulbs really where exactly was i wrong here i very clearly remeber that the discussion was that i had better success with a specific bulb than another person did. again a matter of disagreement not a matter of me being wrong. but again this is what you choose to see and believe. i never disputed that other posters claims i never stated he was wrong. so with all of this one again i will ask the oh so simple question. other than in your mind because you have a desire to make everything that i post be wrong how come in cases such as above and in many other posts that i know for fact you read you have not proven me wrong .

From : greg o

would like to know what is the voltage range the pcm sends to this alternator. this is off a 2000 durango. i have tried a standard electronic voltage regulator but it sends 12 volts to this alternator and was told that they require less voltage to work properly 5v. would appreciate any help with this project. thanks evlu the way it works is like this. the pcm or regulator sends voltage actually current to the field one of two ways by varying the + voltage to the field or by always sending battery voltage and varying the ground circuit. either way it send more and more current until the battery reaches the desired voltage then it backs off. there is no set voltage. the required voltage to the field will vary depending on the load i.e. headlamps off or on. ac off or on. and so on. al .

From : beryl

greg o wrote then i go on the net and i see seer and eer ratings used on both ac and heat pump. seems to me someone changed the rules sometime in the last couple years! greg nah my 12 year old unit had a seer rating as does my new unit. ac only or heat pump greg .

From : azwiley1

greg o wrote then i go on the net and i see seer and eer ratings used on both ac and heat pump. seems to me someone changed the rules sometime in the last couple years! greg nah my 12 year old unit had a seer rating as does my new unit. .

From : tbone

does anyone here know if a rh manual door from a 98 dakota regular cab will bolt up to an ext. cab 1998 also and the electronics mount into it from the electric door i have an electric door thats been hit and found a manual door thats real nice. i just dont know if it will work and dont want to buy it then find out. thanks abby.normal @ tx . rr .com .

From : miles

you may not like it but you asked.. bg i really hate guessing on these symptoms any more. unless its something really common a wrong guess can get expensive. would this not be a good time to have someone/mechanic/dealer put a scanner on it and actually diagnose the problem before throwing more parts at it it may be cheaper in the long run. no offense intended of course..... denny denny i guess i am done throwing money at it today. i have replaced the idle air valve the intake air temp sensor and the map sensor. although it has surely made a difference the rushing is still there. i did take the time to clean the throat area of the of the throttle body really well nice and shiny. i also ensured all the rubber vacuum lines are replaced. i have tested the voltage to and from the tps and it is good. so unless it is a fuel filter fuel pump or a crack somewhere i am lost. the thing that gets me is that now the thing has way more torque than it has ever had since i have had it and after the engine change. something i discovered because now it has get up and go it hits the rev limiter before it shifts out of 3rd gear. going to have to have that looked at. so now it is to get ball joints shocks springs and the air conditioner serviced got a hole somewhere. also i am going to have to find a steering column coupler. fred .

From : craig c

shrinkage was say 6 across it would be like throwing a deck chair off a cruise ship. roy fmb north mexico . 222 338556 46d1b5eb$0$18760$4c368faf@roadrunner.com on sat 25 aug 2007 142316 -0400 roy roy@fhome.net wrote on fri 24 aug 2007 122238 -0500 craig c. mcraigchr@gmail.com wrote mac davis wrote the wife got back from a shopping trip yesterday with a very wet passenger side carpet.. is it purely water or is there anti-freeze mixed with it craig c. seems to just be water... no smell or taste.. now that ya tasted it bro figure it is okay to tell ya that your cat had a accident. gbmfg that was why i tasted it... got to much invested in the cats to have them around leaking coolant.. i still havent found where the water is coming from and of course i loaned out my chiltons and didnt get it back before we moved.. does it rain there roy mac please remove splinters before emailing .

From : mac davis

tom lawrence wrote you have it backwards heat pumps do go by seer or seasonal energy eficency rating and it is seasonal because heat pump can heat and cool and plain central a/cs go by eer. you better call trane and tell them theyre wrong as theyre rating their plain central a/cs by seer http//www.trane.com/residential/products/airconditioners/xl19i.aspx seems seer applies to both. my heat pump has a seer rating. .

From : miles

in response to roy s post. i thought everyone should know in response to roy s post. i thought everyone should know tom lawrence tnooms4p8a8m@meimnbgaarlqlmoawield.com wrote in message anybody got a chain saw so we can widen out the doorways gbmfg why you wanna come in ^ wow!! hey rabbit seems like he got ya.bfg actually the wide ride will have probably have shrunken a size or two with all the water hes in. damn! rabbits shrink when they get wet i thought that was cotton.... denny cotton tail chris ok but how much could that tail actually shrink chris it seems you are showing an interesting amount of interest in dennys shrinkage. is there something you want to confess here bfg fmb north mexico .

From : miles

in response to roy s post. i thought everyone should know im sure the loss of a pizza hut must have been hard for you to take.g well as long as the white castle is ok hell live -- chris .

From : tom lawrence

in response to roy s post. i thought everyone should know in response to roy s post. i thought everyone should know tom lawrence tnooms4p8a8m@meimnbgaarlqlmoawield.com wrote in message anybody got a chain saw so we can widen out the doorways gbmfg why you wanna come in ^ wow!! hey rabbit seems like he got ya.bfg actually the wide ride will have probably have shrunken a size or two with all the water hes in. damn! rabbits shrink when they get wet i thought that was cotton.... denny cotton tail chris ok but how much could that tail actually shrink i could answer that if you really want to know.......... denny .

From : beryl

guys thanks for all the suggestions. it was the suggestions that sent me back to the dealer in the first place armed with some basic understanding on what to demand and ask at the service counter. i love this truck too and anyone who has driven one is aware of the incredible torque these trucks have. without a load they really will attack a hill unlike any car i driven. i plan to post the final outcome. again thanks john i have a 2001 with it seems the same setup. i had gauges installed and the fuel pressure would go as low as 1 psi should be 5 without load or towing anything. i replaced the lift pump myself probably nearly the last one they sold as they now do the in tank pump which i understand cummims recommeded to start with. i have heard that the lift pump failure can take out the main injection pump as well as the rear two cylinders from being starved of fuel. i love this truck! this is our first ever pickup and even at 11000 feet it does have power! good luck! charles john a reichert wrote this is an update on my 2500 diesel problem for those interested. since i have the extended warranty the dealer ordered the recommend replacement for the uplift pump one which got installed in the fuel tank. the next day i drove the truck to work. the loss of power problem continues. i had to down shift from 6 to 5th gear on some of the hills when the engine began to lug. this is while moving at 50+ mph. the truck is going back to the dealer for more trouble shooting. the truck which i bought new has about 66000 miles and all service have been performed by the dealer. the fuel filter was replaced during a previous service. yes im getting desperate. john .

From : azwiley1

lug. this is while moving at 50+ mph. the truck is going back to the dealer for more trouble shooting. the truck which i bought new has about 66000 miles and all service have been performed by the dealer. the fuel filter was replaced during a previous service. yes im getting desperate. id be concerned about possible damage to the injection pump due to the lack of fuel pressure from the bad lift pump. ask them to test the injection pump for proper operation. .

From : greg o

would like to know what is the voltage range the pcm sends to this alternator. this is off a 2000 durango. i have tried a standard electronic voltage regulator but it sends 12 volts to this alternator and was told that they require less voltage to work properly 5v. would appreciate any help with this project. thanks evlu -- message posted via carkb.com http//www.carkb.com/uwe/forums.aspx/dodge-truck/200708/1 .

From : greg o

on sat 25 aug 2007 170631 -0500 greg o goo1959spam@hotmail.com wrote 12 or better the feds require all units manufactured after january 1st 2006 to be 13 seer or better. seer relates to ac units heat pumps go by the eer not seer. 15 seconds on google and you would have had correct information. you have it backwards heat pumps do go by seer or seasonal energy eficency rating and it is seasonal because heat pump can heat and cool and plain central a/cs go by eer. ----------------- thesnoman.com what ever! google it and find out for yourself! greg .

From : bob az

on sat 25 aug 2007 163946 -0700 azwiley1 wiley156@yahoo.com wrote greg take a deep breath and relax. this is yet just another perfect example as to why no one listens to a damn thing snoball says and this is another example of why you are a troll because you do not know what a seer is either. ----------------- thesnoman.com it is funny because you popped in and started spouting off terminology like you knew what you were talking about and got it wrong! then you try to pick on wiley cuz he does not know what the terms mean he never said he did! greg .

From : azwiley1

on aug 25 1109 am roy r...@fhome.net wrote there was a thread around a bit ago that had to do with home a/c what was the outcome who makes the best and most energy efficient trying to be of the game when this unit fails. roy it was trane or carrier. thanks pal. .

From : snoman

in response to roy s post. i thought everyone should know anybody got a chain saw so we can widen out the doorways gbmfg why you wanna come in ^ wow!! hey rabbit seems like he got ya.bfg actually the wide ride will have probably have shrunken a size or two with all the water hes in. damn! rabbits shrink when they get wet i thought that was cotton.... -- chris .

From : snoman

hello i have a 96 b2500 with 5.9. about 2 years ago we had a new/rebuilt jasper engine put in it because it had a rod knocking. not too long after that we noticed the idle was a little rough. over the year or two it has gotten to the point of being real rough. idles smooth while cold as it warms it gets to a point where it increases 300 rpms or more then drops off. the manual says check vacuum first. i did this today and found a busted line from the throttle body to some kind of solenoid. i replaced that line the pcv and air filter the condition is still there. after some research and study i think the map or intake air sensors could cause my problem. before outlaying that kind of money to see if a replacement would work is there anything else i should be concerned with thank you fred .

From : beekeep

on sat 25 aug 2007 170631 -0500 greg o goo1959spam@hotmail.com wrote 12 or better the feds require all units manufactured after january 1st 2006 to be 13 seer or better. seer relates to ac units heat pumps go by the eer not seer. 15 seconds on google and you would have had correct information. you have it backwards heat pumps do go by seer or seasonal energy eficency rating and it is seasonal because heat pump can heat and cool and plain central a/cs go by eer. ----------------- thesnoman.com .

From : joe

this is an update on my 2500 diesel problem for those interested. since i have the extended warranty the dealer ordered the recommend replacement for the uplift pump one which got installed in the fuel tank. the next day i drove the truck to work. the loss of power problem continues. i had to down shift from 6 to 5th gear on some of the hills when the engine began to lug. this is while moving at 50+ mph. the truck is going back to the dealer for more trouble shooting. the truck which i bought new has about 66000 miles and all service have been performed by the dealer. the fuel filter was replaced during a previous service. yes im getting desperate. john .

From : snoman

this is a multi-part message in mime format. ------=nextpart000002101c7e729.f0c75860 content-type text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 content-transfer-encoding quoted-printable autoanything website http//tinyurl.com/3a3tx9 $10 off orders of $100+ use code aff05020 $25 off orders of $199+ use code age04200 use those codes before aa pulls the offers! ------=nextpart000002101c7e729.f0c75860 content-type text/html; charset=iso-8859-1 content-transfer-encoding quoted-printable !doctype html public -//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en htmlhead meta http-equiv=3dcontent-type content=3dtext/html; = charset=3diso-8859-1 meta content=3dmshtml 6.00.6000.16525 name=3dgenerator style/style /head body bgcolor=3d#ffffff divfont face=3darial size=3d2strongfont = color=3d#000080autoanything=20 website/font/strong /fonta = href=3dhttp//tinyurl.com/3a3tx9font=20 face=3darial size=3d2http//tinyurl.com/3a3tx9/font/a/div divfont face=3darial size=3d2/font /div divfont face=3darial color=3d#800000 size=3d2strong$10 off orders = of $100+ use=20 code aff05020/strong/font/div divfont face=3darial color=3d#800000 = size=3d2strong/strong/font /div divfont face=3darial color=3d#800000 size=3d2strong$25 off orders = of $199+ use=20 code age04200/strong/font/div divstrongfont face=3darial color=3d#800000 = size=3d2/font/strong /div divstrongfont face=3darial color=3d#008000 size=3d2use those codes = before aa=20 pulls the offers!/font/strong/div/body/html ------=nextpart000002101c7e729.f0c75860-- .

From : azwiley1

azwiley1 wiley156@yahoo.com wrote in on aug 25 306 pm greg o goo1959s...@hotmail.com wrote on sat 25 aug 2007 162714 -0400 roy r...@fhome.net wrote on aug 25 1109 am roy r...@fhome.net wrote there was a thread around a bit ago that had to do with home a/c what was the outcome who makes the best and most energy efficient trying to be of the game when this unit fails. roy it was trane or carrier. thanks pal. actually you go by seer rating if it is a heat pump or efficency rating if it is only a central moreso than brand. a seer or 14 or more is kinda state of the art for a heat pump and a rating of 12 or more on a central is good too. you want a very large condesor for size of units cooling capacity because the bigger the condensor the more it cools r22 and the less energy it uses for cooling delivered. horse shoe or circular shaped condensors tend to be the best here. ----------------- thesnoman.com 12 or better the feds require all units manufactured after january 1st 2006 to be 13 seer or better. seer relates to ac units heat pumps go by the eer not seer. 15 seconds on google and you would have had correct information. as for which one is best the one installed correctly period! brand means nothing. we install ruud/rheem units where i work and we rarely have any problem with them. the wholesaler we buy them from asked why we have such good luck when the other ruud dealer in town is always changing out compressors. only reason we could come with is we evacuate the line sets on our installs down to 400-500 microns always! if you dont you leave in non-condensables and moisture that ruins to oil and fries the compressor. cheap junk installed properly will run longer than a trane or carrier or even ruud/rheem that got installed improperly by some hack. greg- hide quoted text - - show quoted text - greg take a deep breath and relax. this is yet just another perfect example as to why no one listens to a damn thing snoball says. there are enough hvac experts in here that will see this thread and reply inturn making him look like the retard that he is. as to your comments i agree though i am not one of those said experts that as long as it is installed properly and properly sized for your house you should have little to no problems with it regardless of who makes it. my buddy who has his own ac/heating company has told me that many of the different brands have the same components inside. hes also said the same thing ive already heard here - that the installation is more important than the make of the unit. .

From : greg o

on aug 25 306 pm greg o goo1959s...@hotmail.com wrote on sat 25 aug 2007 162714 -0400 roy r...@fhome.net wrote on aug 25 1109 am roy r...@fhome.net wrote there was a thread around a bit ago that had to do with home a/c what was the outcome who makes the best and most energy efficient trying to be of the game when this unit fails. roy it was trane or carrier. thanks pal. actually you go by seer rating if it is a heat pump or efficency rating if it is only a central moreso than brand. a seer or 14 or more is kinda state of the art for a heat pump and a rating of 12 or more on a central is good too. you want a very large condesor for size of units cooling capacity because the bigger the condensor the more it cools r22 and the less energy it uses for cooling delivered. horse shoe or circular shaped condensors tend to be the best here. ----------------- thesnoman.com 12 or better the feds require all units manufactured after january 1st 2006 to be 13 seer or better. seer relates to ac units heat pumps go by the eer not seer. 15 seconds on google and you would have had correct information. as for which one is best the one installed correctly period! brand means nothing. we install ruud/rheem units where i work and we rarely have any problem with them. the wholesaler we buy them from asked why we have such good luck when the other ruud dealer in town is always changing out compressors. only reason we could come with is we evacuate the line sets on our installs down to 400-500 microns always! if you dont you leave in non-condensables and moisture that ruins to oil and fries the compressor. cheap junk installed properly will run longer than a trane or carrier or even ruud/rheem that got installed improperly by some hack. greg- hide quoted text - - show quoted text - greg take a deep breath and relax. this is yet just another perfect example as to why no one listens to a damn thing snoball says. there are enough hvac experts in here that will see this thread and reply inturn making him look like the retard that he is. as to your comments i agree though i am not one of those said experts that as long as it is installed properly and properly sized for your house you should have little to no problems with it regardless of who makes it. .

From : roy

on sat 25 aug 2007 162714 -0400 roy roy@fhome.net wrote on aug 25 1109 am roy r...@fhome.net wrote there was a thread around a bit ago that had to do with home a/c what was the outcome who makes the best and most energy efficient trying to be of the game when this unit fails. roy it was trane or carrier. thanks pal. actually you go by seer rating if it is a heat pump or efficency rating if it is only a central moreso than brand. a seer or 14 or more is kinda state of the art for a heat pump and a rating of 12 or more on a central is good too. you want a very large condesor for size of units cooling capacity because the bigger the condensor the more it cools r22 and the less energy it uses for cooling delivered. horse shoe or circular shaped condensors tend to be the best here. ----------------- thesnoman.com .

From : chris thompson

ronnie wrote my blinkers work sometime and sometime they dont. where might the blinker switch be thanks its that little stalk sticking out the left side of the steering wheel. but its more likely you are just out of blinker fluid. you can get more here http//kalecoauto.com/index.phpmainpage=productinfo&cpath=2&productsid=6 ya hey dere oly .

From : tbone

in response to tbone s post. i thought everyone should know tbone wrote while it may be possible the compressor would require serious hp to spin it fast enough to accomplish it and even if you could find a motor strong enough to do it the power bill would be astronomical. i just got my bill for last months electricity... $7.85 all electric home no gas. got a well no water bill either you suck!!! - ill send ya some of mine beryl just so you dont feel left out -- chris .

From : nza

just for the info in this specific case the problem was caused by a defect remote starter hope its the good expression in english... mean to start the truck remotly. my father in law disconnect it and since all is ok. cheers ! morpheus. morpheus nebuchadnezzar morpheus.nebuchadnezzar@hotmail.com wrote in sorry for my bad english - i speak french... hello my father in law have a dodge dakota 1998 5.2 l. his truck just stop and the error code no bus appear in the odometer. her have to wait minutes or hours before the truck start again - but it start... then stop after minutes or hours. he have change the coil coy then the pickup coil gaz pump and the issue persist. next step will be to change the crank sensor. do you have any suggestion or more questions to ask because im a neweber in this matter... thanks for him ! morpheus .

From : Annonymous

says a lot about why i insisted the company offering me a job give me a base salary with a guaranteed cola and a bonus/incentive program to cover the possibility of billing more than my actual work time. basically i negotiated a cost of living increase as well as performance bonuses. my next question since im going to be part of the brain trust putting this system together is if someone has a bonus system what sort of hours are worked/billed for what rate of bonus other neat things ive been promised are training by the manufacturers and a say in how the shop operates and is physically set up. as far as benefits ive been offered a 30/70 they pay 70% health care program and 401k. -- max everyone is entitled to his own opinion he is not entitled to his own facts. sen. daniel patrick moynihan of new york in response to max dodge s post. i thought everyone should know any of you who work at a dealership have a flat rate incentive plan by which you get paid if so im interested in hearing the details of the system. lol denny may or maynot agree with me.....its sucks. you get paid say 14 hours for a 5.2l engine swap irrc this is book time for the br/be and the an/i forget the body desg for the durango now this is the pay doesnt matter if you spend 24 hours or 8 hours doing the work. of course you really want to be able to do the work in 8 hours right same goes for other stuff there are recalls that pay as alittle as .2 of an hour. warranty rates are less for the same job as what customer pay is these are usually lunch eaters when it comes to engine work witch was what i did when i worked in the dealership needless to say if your not turning a wrench your not getting paid....and sometimes just because you are turning a wrench doesnt always mean you are getting paid....or atleast not being paid for all your time anyways. i didnt mind the pay so much when i was single. but it really sucked during slow times when i was married and a kid i was the only income for quite some time does any of that answer your questions -- chris .

From : beryl

on fri 31 aug 2007 015139 -0000 fawilson wilson.frederick@gmail.com wrote hello i have been chasing this rough idle problem for some time now. i have replaced a lot of stuff iac map intake air sensor and tested the tps. i was reading the haynes manual and it says the water temp sensor is connected to the fuel injector system some how. can this cause an idle problem thanks fred it is very posible. iirc you disconnect the temperature sensor to check the timing. beekeep .

From : bigironram

there is a broken pin within the distributor. it hasnt been repaired yet but it looks like the right direction. ill keep you posted. thanks again. to mike and tbone thanks for your help. what turned out to be the problem so the dark green/orange @ the coil/injectors is an input to the ecm it is a 12 volt feed wire coming from the shutdown relay. it powers the injectors coil and ecm. i was told it was an output. no. if i put power to that wire at the coil the injectors get power as well as the ecm and right over to the relay box on the left front fender. you need to find out why it has no power on its own. still no start. we have no injector pulse during crank with that wire manually powered up as well. you may have a wiring harness problem i would fix the no power from the auto shutdown relay first. the ecm originally called for crank sensor and cam sensor. both were changed. did the engine ever run at all if yes was it before or after the cam and crank sensors were replaced thanks again. isnt the fuel pump as well we do have fuel pump. no the fuel pump is powered by the fuel pump relay. both the fuel pump relay and auto shutdown relay are fed by the same fuse and activated by the ecm on a single wire. from what you are saying you have a bad auto shutdown relay or an open wire to the relay. shouldnt the injectors/coil have ignition voltage ignition voltage not sure what you mean by ignition voltage but the injectors and coil should both have 12 volts. these are powered by the auto shutdown relay. i really appreciate it. .

From : tbone

on aug 30 625 am tbone tbonenos...@nc.rr.com wrote on aug 29 314 pm roy r...@fhome.net wrote see i knew the transgender cunt troll would start shit as usual. well if ya continue to respond to this asshole he will continue to play with ya. ok roy ill stop responding to you! vbfg but seriously it will not matter who i ed h. or theguy reply to because the transgender troll will tag on simply because he/she/it has nothing to do anymore since snoball kicked he/she/it to the curb. that is what kill files are for larry. yes but unfortuneately right now i am using google groups via the web and there isnt one. comcast limits the amount of groups and the sizes so i havent been using their service .

From : ed h

chris thompson wrote sorry craig i have to disagree with your stance there bud. what is it specifically that you think you *cant* do with apple hardware that you can supposedly do with the system you originally posted about craig c. .

From : azwiley1

turning the broken ignition doesnt engage the starter anymore to start the truck somehow like my taking jumper cables the the starter moter you can do this but only if the ignition switch enables the ignition circuits. if you can get the instrument panel lights to come on like they normally do with you switch the ignition to on you can remove the starter relay from the pdc black box next to the battery and use a jumper wire to connect terminal 30 to terminal 87 these terminals will be labelled on the underside of the relay but youll be connecting the terminals in the relay socket not on the relay itself. this will engage the starter motor. if you cant get the ignition circuits energized with the switch its best to wait until you get the switch replaced... you dont want to go hacking up your wiring harness and splicing wires if you dont have to. .

From : craig c

see i knew the transgender cunt troll would start shit as usual. well if ya continue to respond to this asshole he will continue to play with ya. .

From : craig c

craig c. wrote chris thompson wrote *caugh* who said anything about osx you can run any os. including k/umbuntu. superior performance from a superior product. closed system is not superior. i prefer a non-proprietary open system by far. .

From : napalmheart

craig c. wrote chris thompson wrote did you ever check out kubuntu how does it run on your mac if you did yep. it runs on mac. i ftpd the installable files but have not yet run tried them. i have a g5 with powerpc chips. the new macs are intel which are definitely better for running other oss. thats too bad. the apple did have a great advantage in using motorola cpus over intel. if youve ever programmed in assembly on both cpus youd understand just how inefficient intel cpus are. .

From : beekeep

on aug 29 940 am mac davis mac.splint...@bajadavis.com wrote on tue 28 aug 2007 152440 -0400 roy r...@fhome.net wrote roy wrote there was a thread around a bit ago that had to do with home a/c what was the outcome who makes the best and most energy efficient trying to be of the game when this unit fails. roy would you please stop stirring the pot - you are correct i apologize. when it comes to pot it should be smoked not stirred. vbg craig c. unless youre making brownies... mac please remove splinters before emailing- hide quoted text - - show quoted text - mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm brownies! blahhhhhhhhhhh random testing! .

From : tom lawrence

halo also. has anyone done this repair my local advance auto parts has the ignition for $70 what is the halo the little ring that lights up around the cylinder. its certainly not a required item. how difficult is the repair replacing the ignition switch is fairly simple - a haynes manual available at the auto parts store will cover the procedure in pretty good detail. youll need a set of torx screwdrivers. also i havent started the truck in about 1 month i would like to start it and drive it a little or at least warm it up is that possible ive tried the method the crooks used to start it but turning the broken ignition doesnt engage the starter anymore to start the truck somehow like my taking jumper cables the the starter moter you can do this but only if the ignition switch enables the ignition circuits. if you can get the instrument panel lights to come on like they normally do with you switch the ignition to on you can remove the starter relay from the pdc black box next to the battery and use a jumper wire to connect terminal 30 to terminal 87 these terminals will be labelled on the underside of the relay but youll be connecting the terminals in the relay socket not on the relay itself. this will engage the starter motor. if you cant get the ignition circuits energized with the switch its best to wait until you get the switch replaced... you dont want to go hacking up your wiring harness and splicing wires if you dont have to. .

From : nza

punkin though i know right off that the transgender troll will end up jumping ediths being quiet again. he never bothers you anyway dont fret about it. although i know nothing i will reply anyway. of course. i have always used abit asus or gigabyte mainboards with no issues in my own systems or ones i have built for customers. false. you were confounded by your an7s sata drive problem thought you needed to reflash the bios over and over again. thought everybody needed to in fact. tbag helped you out. if you are going to stick with amd for your cpu i would go with a slightly slower dual core vice the slightly faster single core. crissy settled on one of the slightly slower single cores for yesterdays socket 939. that amd athlon 64 3500+ is worth a measly $40 at newegg. it wont be faster than my old socket a. newegg has a couple slightly faster dual core athlon 64 x2 4200+ / asus 939 bundles for about $110. lots more of the socket am2 stuff offered though. only ten socket 939 processors are listed while there are fifty for am2. id look for socket am2 and ddr2 memory if i were shopping now. i also use xfx video cards with great results they are factory o.c.d and come with a great warranty should you ever need it. it is also sli capable and pci-e based. you switched from they to it and said xfx cards are sli capable and pci-e. stay with the sata 3.0 drive man. yeah man. .

From : beryl

1500 dodge ram v6 i am having problems with my ac system. the system is intermitted i can turn the system on and it will not blow. but while i am driving or running idle it has a mind of its on to turn on. once it is on the ac blows through the defrost vent when i change the settings it may or may not switch to the correct vents mainly it blows through the defrost vent. i have changed the check valve near the fire wall on the passenger side. im in texas and i need my ac. .

From : craig c

i thought that you would - yup you are correct. how could we suffer through the wrath of tbone it would be budd revisited.gbfg -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving ill just let it drop. gee i guess we will all sleep better tonight now.bfg .

From : miles

nosey wrote huh the parts guy is going to say hey these arent wearever gold semi-metallic pads! i think your overestimating the visual parts identification and revision history memorization skills of the average advance auto parts guy. i guess so. its either pep boys or napa here and i mistakenly didnt place advance auto in the pep boys league. and the lifetime warranty may only be good once anyway. thats how it worked with my lifetime warranted headlights back around 1989. at exchange time i needed to surrender the original lifetime certificate that came in the box. thats an interesting 18 year old electrical equipment story. how does it apply to wearevers current brake pad warranty eighteen years ago or current are meaningless. we dont know the details of wearevers warranty now and i didnt know the details of sylvanias warranty then. i learned that my headlight lifetime warranty meant that only the *originally* purchased headlights would be replaced free at any time during my lifetime. .

From : tom lawrence

thanks. tomorrows planned. then the distributor is where i would concentrate your efforts. the auto shutdown relay is controlled by the pcm and iirc it activates it when it sees a signal from the position sensor in the distributor. if the pcm is not seeing this signal it will not activate it and even of you bypass this by connecting voltage directly it still will not send any pulse signals because it doesnt know that the engine is cranking. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving no. the first problem was distributor. the distributor got all piled up inside. it was changed. the codes were after this. we are wondering if the distributor problem has caused some other damage. all fuses are good all splices seem intact under the hood. thanks . did the vehicle ever run after they were changed -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving so the dark green/orange @ the coil/injectors is an input to the ecm i was told it was an output. if i put power to that wire at the coil the injectors get power as well as the ecm and right over to the relay box on the left front fender. still no start. we have no injector pulse during crank with that wire manually powered up as well. the ecm originally called for crank sensor and cam sensor. both were changed. thanks again. isnt the fuel pump as well we do have fuel pump. no the fuel pump is powered by the fuel pump relay. both the fuel pump relay and auto shutdown relay are fed by the same fuse and activated by the ecm on a single wire. from what you are saying you have a bad auto shutdown relay or an open wire to the relay. shouldnt the injectors/coil have ignition voltage ignition voltage not sure what you mean by ignition voltage but the injectors and coil should both have 12 volts. these are powered by the auto shutdown relay. i really appreciate it. .

From : tbone

on aug 28 624 pm hone...@radix.net beekeep wrote on tue 28 aug 2007 134008 -0700 nza the...@yahoo.com wrote on aug 28 217 pm tbone tbonenos...@nc.rr.com wrote while this could be done what exactly would be the point by the time you are done building the structure to hold the compressor condenser drive motor cooling fan and then create all of the plumbing for the evaporator and fitting it into your air handler you would probably spend even more money and a hell of a lot more time than just buying a comparable unit. precisely why i threw the idea out there... to debunk it with the brains of others instead of just my own. the only point of it i could imagine is that the cooling capacity would be much greater than your average home unit. thats it. i doubt that. the volume of air in a car is way less than the volume of air in a house. although a car isnt that well insulated i doubt that even comes close to the heat gain of a house. beekeep well i have no idea about these things but i have heard that a typical house system is 2 tons versus a car system being 10 - 20 tons. like i said i am not in the know. .

From : tbone

isnt the fuel pump as well we do have fuel pump. shouldnt the injectors/coil have ignition voltage i really appreciate it. we have a 92 3.9l 2wd dakota that wont start. we dont have any voltage on the dark green/orange wire @ the coil injectors pin 57 @ the ecm. we have tried another ecm - same problem. all fuses are fine there doesnt seem to be any broken wires. any ideas thanks in advance. those are all supliied power by the auto shutdown relay. the relay is suplied power by a fuse. .

From : nza

nza wrote on aug 28 523 pm nosey kfre...@removethis.hotmail.com wrote ive had good luck with wearever gold semi-metallic pads sold by advance auto stores. there may be better pads out there but these work well and dont wear out abnormally fast. they also have a lifetime warranty if you plan on keeping the vehicle for a while. put your old pads in the box along with the reciept for the new ones. when you need to change pads the next time just return the ones you took off this time. before i say anything i would like to say that i am not trying to flame you at all. however i have to vehemently disagree with this practice. imho this is part of the reason everything costs so much these days and also a reason many mom-and-pop stores go out of bidness -- the replace it under any circumstance attitude.. if i use a set of brake pads for 3 years and wear them to the backing that is not a manufacturers defect. that is normal wear and the company from which i purchased the brake pads should not have to pay for a new set of pads. i really dont understand why *any* parts-store should have to replace a normally worn set of brakes. or even abnormally worn set of brakes. unless they failed a week after i installed them or i never used them to begin i would never return them -- honestly i would feel guilty returning them for replacement if i wore them out normally.. the company is using the warranty as a marketing strategy to charge more for the product and make it more attractive to buyers. when you buy pads with a lifetime warranty you pay extra for that. they make the promise that if you ever wear them out theyll replace them for free as long as you own the car. its a simple business transaction. i agreed to buy their product and they agreed to replace them. i dont see it as cheating them out of anything. they are hoping you like most people dont keep your receipt or you forget about it when its time for replacement or you replace the car before then. i paid a little more up front just like the 99% of the other customers that will never use the warranty. if they didnt make money off the warranty they wouldnt offer it. there was a good article in car craft magazine about bedding new brake pads. it may help the brake performance with whatever pads you choose to use. seehttp//www.freefilehosting.org/public/44720/brakebedding.pdf i always do this procedure when installing new brakes. i hate squealing brakes. was a bit disappointed that the section about bedding the clutch was not there.... hadnt read this article before. i still have that magazine around here somewhere. i scanned the brake article for a similar discussion a few years ago and saved it on my computer. if i can find it ill scan and post the clutch article too. -- ken .

From : beekeep

we have a 92 3.9l 2wd dakota that wont start. we dont have any voltage on the dark green/orange wire @ the coil injectors pin 57 @ the ecm. we have tried another ecm - same problem. all fuses are fine there doesnt seem to be any broken wires. any ideas thanks in advance. those are all supliied power by the auto shutdown relay. the relay is suplied power by a fuse. .

From : beryl

on tue 28 aug 2007 134008 -0700 nza thenza@yahoo.com wrote on aug 28 217 pm tbone tbonenos...@nc.rr.com wrote while this could be done what exactly would be the point by the time you are done building the structure to hold the compressor condenser drive motor cooling fan and then create all of the plumbing for the evaporator and fitting it into your air handler you would probably spend even more money and a hell of a lot more time than just buying a comparable unit. precisely why i threw the idea out there... to debunk it with the brains of others instead of just my own. the only point of it i could imagine is that the cooling capacity would be much greater than your average home unit. thats it. i doubt that. the volume of air in a car is way less than the volume of air in a house. although a car isnt that well insulated i doubt that even comes close to the heat gain of a house. beekeep .

From : craig c

on aug 27 832 pm beryl terra...@coolbits.net wrote nza wrote neat idea. or you could use a turbofan engine and air cycle machine from a junked airliner. lol! well i might try it if i had dirigible hangar in az or nm and needed to store gourmet chocolate. the cooling capacity of an automobiles a/c is much greater than that of a house because you dont have to deal with driving down the road in a house am i right that is the only reason i have toyed with the idea instead of dismissing it immediately. .